Parts Needed::

Morimoto Projector Kit ( ensure you get the 9004 kit with the High beam controller AKA Motocontrol and the longer thread reflector)

Clear lense housings ( not required, but way better output, ensure housings are aimable.)

Flat head Screw driver

Phillips Screw Driver

T15 torx screw driver

10mm socket extension / 10mm open ended wrench

Oven

Epoxy

Why to upgrade to Bi-xenon Projectors

It's no secret that 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Headligts are terrible from the factory. There are various things you can do to help, Britebox relay system, bulbs, sport conversion, and my least favorite.....HID's, or a Projector retrofit like this.  While the retrofit is the most costly I believe that it is the best choice.  No tonly do you get to upgrade to xenon bulbs, but you upgrade to projectors that were designed for the xenon bulb, which is key.  

I truly hate seeing guys throwing HID's into their halogen AKA oem housings and claiming that output is great for only $50.   What they don't relize is that when you throw a differently configured bulb into a halogen housing you are going to scatter light.

The key to not scattering light, AKA blinding oncoming traffic is ensuring that the reflector housing is engineered for the bulb that is in it.  The distance of the filmate is key when it comes to how light reflects in the housing.  As you can see here moving the filmate, or installing a different type of bulb throws everything off.

This is why I always prefer that if you are going to run different lights that you ensure the housing is right for the bulb.  since the Morimoto projectors are bulb for a xenon mini h1 bulb you don't have to worry about it.  You can have your cake and eat it too.

The Design of the Morimoto Mini H1 Projector headlights

You can see from the above that the Shield, or Cutoff Plate ensures that the light is reflected and projected in a manner than doesn't blind people.  The result of a sheild in the up position does this

You can clearly see the cutoff and how it prevents oncoming traffic from being blinded.  

Here is a closer look at the Cutoff Shield

To activate you High Beams the shield is pulled down allowing light to be projected without being cutoff.  The result is

Ok that is enough on why I choose the Morimoto Mini H1 Bixenon projectors as the new headlights for my 2nd Gen Dodge Ram.

Break Down of the Projectors

This is most of the hardware you will get with your kit.  The nice thing about the Morimoto kit is it allows you to install the projectors into the OEM bulb socket.  This allows you to retain the OEM aiming ablility. the only hole you will need to drill is for the High Beam wiring.

 Sport Housings

I decided to jump to sport lights in the middle of this process.  These are the lights I got from Ebay.  I am VERY happy with them.

Amazon Sport Headlight Housings Link PN: 55077025ac 55077025AG

They required a little cutting to get the projectors set in them, but nothing bad.  You can get extended threads projectors so I would suggest that.

 Removing your housings

to remove your Stock 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Headlights you will need a 10mm socket and an extension. There are 3 bolts holding the light in.  Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the light in (Red dots in picture).  The lower inner bolt is somewhat hard to get to.  I found that going from under the truck was easiest.

Next pull the light  straight back to pull it out of the push fittings.  You should feel it "pop" out 3 or 4 inches.  Next remove your blinker bulbs and disconnect the headlight bulb.  Next remove the housing by sliding them towards the outside of the truck, twisting somwhat to free the housing.  Take your time as this can be a stubborn part to get out.

once you have both housings out you can go inside.  

Removing the headlight lens

The easiest way I know of to get the lens off the housing is to use the oven.  I set my ovens temp to 170*f and put the housings in for 30 minutes or so to heat the glue and make the lens easy to remove.  Ensure you keep and eye on the housing while it is in the over.  I have seen some ovens that are not accurate on heat and ended up melting the housing.  

Once your housings are to temp remove them and carefully use a flathead screw driver to pry the lens open.  

Move slowly around the lense and pry the lens off.  you should feel it release, don't pry hard, if the glue isn't letting go put it back in the oven for another 10 minutes, increase temp if needed.

Your end result should be like this

It is key to notice that if you are using the OEM lenses that your output will be less than wonderful.  you can see in the image above the Fluted design to help scatter the halogen bulb output.  This however makes the cutoff line fuzzy.  This is why a clear lens is worth having.

Installing the Projector

Remove all of your hardware from the projector so there is nothing on it.  

The threaded section should fit into the OEM bulb hole.  Insert the projector into the housing from the front.  Turn the housing over and insert the rubber washer, then the alighment washer, then the locknut.  Tighten the lock nut down somewhat snug.  Don't over tighten as you will have to level the projector by rotating the projector in the housing until the output is level.

The housing back should look like this

The Front will look like this

Note the Red Dot.  you will need to drill a small hole here to run the high beam wires though.

Once you have your projector in the housing, install the Bulb holder onto the back of the projector, there are threaded holes for the small phillips screws. 

Install the bulb then the retaining clip.

Installing the wiring

The Morimoto Wiring Harness only requires connection to one of the 2 oem plugs. The wiring harness looks like this

you need to make connection to the Battery + then a body ground on the end of each Ballast Output.  The Input from the car plug will be a female socket 9004 connection.  I choose to install the bulk of the harness on the Passengers side since I have more space over there. This system already draws power right form the battery so there is no need for a Bright Box type relay system.

You will need mount the ballast's one on each side near the back of the light.  I choose to the left and right of the radiator right above the light.

Plug your ballast into the "Ballast output" plug from the harness.  

Leveling / Tuning your lights

after everything is reinstalled into the housings you will need to put them into the truck and level the projectors.  This needs to be done before you put the lense back on.  Connect the bulbs to the wiring in the truck.  Install the housings and install the bolts to ensure that hte housing is tight and won't move.  

You will need a large flat surface and level ground to do this.  Park 20ish yards away from the wall on flat ground, turn the lights on.  The truck will need to be running to trip the ballasts and ignite the bulbs.  Once the bulbs are on you can kill the truck.  

Look at the output of the light once side at a time and level the cutoff line by rotating the projector in the housing slowly until you are happy with the level of the light

You can see in this picture that the projector needs to be rotated slight clockwise.  

Once you are happy with the level of the cutoff remove the housing and tighten the locknut down.  Be careful not to move the housing or projector.  Repeat the process for both lights.  Remember you are not aiming hte lights, only leveling the cutoff line.  

Ensure that the hole you drilled for the high beams is sealed with RTV  or epoxy.  

Reinstall the lense

Once you are happy with both sides use some epoxy to reattach the lenses to the housing.  Ensure that it is a tight seal.  Allow time for the epoxy to setup.  

Reinstalling housings and aiming headlights

Reinstall the housings and install all bolts ensuring that the lights are held tight.  Connect all lights and wiring to the housings.  

Now you will need ot aim your new lights.  You will need the T20 torx to aim the lights.

Park 25ish yards away from the large flat wall on level ground.   

Typical rule of thumb is you want your light hot spots to be directly in front of the bulb. Easiest way to ensure this is done is to pull close to the wall, aim the lights left and right until it is right in front of the bulb, then slowly reverse ensure that the hotspot does not move left or night as you backup.  If the hotspot moves left or right adjust the housings to counter act this. 

Next you need to aim your lights up / down.  Again rule of thumb is you want your hotspot at 25 yards to be 1-   4" lower than the level of your headlights. IE pointed down slightly.  This will take some adjusthing.  The cutoff lenses will keep you from needing to point your lights down very much.  Depending on the height of your truck you might be able to get away with 1" of drop at 25 yards. The higher your truck is lifted the move drop your lights will need to keep from blinding people.  

This might take some trial and error.  Drive around some, if peolle flash you drop your lights some until you are no longer flashed.

In the end you should end up with lights that are much better than OEM.  Your cutoff's should be straight and you should have a VERY wide beam.

the ground is not level but you get the idea.

this article should work for all 2nd gen Dodge Ram trucks 1994 , 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999. 2000, 2001, 2002. 

Parts List

• LED marker light
• LED Taillight
• Heavy duty LED flasher

As for installing it just simple change of parts. The flasher is found in your driver side of the dash. If the flasher been there a while then it might be difficult to remove. Just take your time and work the flasher it will come out. Pull the stock flasher out and plug in the new flasher. 

As for the taillights you need a T25 screwdriver. There are 2 screws holding each taillight in place. The outside edge is a set of pins into the body. Need to be firm but careful and pull the light straight out. Top bulbs are your tail lights simply twist the socket and it should come out. Simply change the bulbs out. Leave the bulb out of the taillight for testing. 

Front marker lights for stock marker there is a Phillips screw holding the light in place on the bottom. Then just pull forward. Twist the socket and remove. Now change out the bulb. Again leave the bulb out for testing. 

Aftermarket headlight you might have a unit like my own which the marker light is part of the headlight. This you'll need to remove the 3 10mm bolts and pull the headlight forward to gain access to the marker lights. After that, it is just like the stock marker light. Twist the socket to remove and change the bulb out. 

Now testing you want to simply turn on the parking lamps and see if the front marker lights are both white and the rear taillights are dim red. Now you can hit the hazards and check and see if the front marker lights turn amber and the rear taillight flash bright red. If any of the bulbs are backward pull them out and turn then 180 and resocket the bulb. This should fix this problem.

As for the bulbs listed above, I'm using a switchback bulb in the front marker lights. This bulb will be white light on parking lamps and when a turn signal or hazards turn on the bulb automatically switches from white to amber. A member brought up laws might be in effect for white marker lamps in front. Might want to check with local laws on this. 

I wanted more light under the hood when I am working there or when I was just checking oil or other fluid levels etc.

I decided to try installing some LED lights to see if this would improve the situation.  Since this was to be an experiment to see if it could improve things and if I would like it I didn't want to spend a lot of money to start with.

I checked around for various light options and looked at how they could be mounted.  I liked the idea of using a small multibulb bar setup because I could tuck it in an area that wouldn't come in contact with the body or engine when I closed the hood.  My thinking was that if I installed 2 of these lights I could focus the out put on each side of the engine bay.

I finally opted for a small 6 bulb (6w) bar that was sold by Super Bright Led.  The output was rated at 600 lumens for each light assembly and came with its own ss mounting bracket and hardware and sold for $19.95 for a pair of lights.  This would give me 1200 lumens under the hood.

The assembly was small enough that I could mount it on the front lip of the hood (just on the backside of the grill) and I could close the hood and the lights would easily clear the radiator support cross member and when the hood was open the lights would be up high and out of the way and give a good unobstructed light input into the bay area.

So I marked the install location and mounted the brakets for the light assembly.

When I installed the light assembly in its bracket I then adjusted the swivel location so the light pointed directly into the center of the engine bay.  The swivel feature also allows the light to be adjusted or re-aimed as needed.  Checking the closure of the hood verified that everything cleared with inches to spare.

I wanted to have the lights operate just like the stock underhood light (open the hood and the light comes on and close the hood and the light goes out).  Keep it simple with no additional wiring or switches.  This dictated that I would just connect my wiring to the stock underhood light.

After removing the stock light assembly I drilled 2 small holes in the plastic housing for a place to have the  18ga wiring enter into the assembly and connect to the existing light setup.  I decided to solder my leads onto the existing brass tangs built into the stock light assembly.

After soldering the leads in place I then installed a 1/4" wire loom covering to keep these new wires from be abraded of scuffed when they were finally installed inside the hood stiiffening bracket.  This bracket proved a natural channel for the wire to be housed in and it led to the front of the hood near where I had mounted my LED light assemblies.

After I hooked everything up I replaced the IOD fuse to check if the lights worked as I had hoped for.  They did and here is a picture of the assembly lighted.  It was a little hard to get a picture of the lights on because they over powered the eye sensor on the camera so I had to point the camera away from the lights so I could take a picture.  Of course when you do that you can't see how bright the lights are.  But it will give you an idea of the finished set up with the wires tir wrapped up out of the way.  I also placed plug-in barrel connectors on my connections to the LED lights so if I decide to use a different light then I don't have to cut wire or run new wiring.

Here is a picture of the underhood light that is put out by these LED assemblies.  This is no flash and the time is at dusk.  This is a big improvement (over the weak stock light) and I have light enough to even easily read a paper by.

   See none of these aftermarket harness's will work on these Trucks neither the Chinese "JUNK" nor the other decent harness's...."WHY"   you ask...  ..Because no one { that i was able to find } has been able or have taken the time to "Crack This system" and build a precise fit "PLUG AND PLAY" HARNESS ".  The 2nd GEN Dodges have a ODD wiring system, I Call it {f^{_{or lack of a better term}}} Ground Switching System because thats what it does. It switches the ground Neg-  instead of the POS+.. The original wiring has a hot wire to Headlight plug that HOT 24/7..all the time.

    SO..after tryin to get around it..I started designing & building my own system. and with much help from..MICHAEL "MOPAR MAN" i eventually completed my own system.."NOW..Im passing this information on to you guys because the lights on these trucks "SUCK"..and this is an Awesome improvment that....well ..you will have to see for your self.....AND......I DONT WANT NO ONE TO GO THRU WHAT I WENT THRU BUILDING MINE ..L.M.A.O.
 

 ***note***  I soldered all my connections & used heat shrink tubing to make a moisture free system. I also harnessed all the wires in split wire loom conduit 

thanks Michael    


Check out link below:
Slideshow
http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Dodge%20Sport%20Quad%20Headlight%20Conversion/?albumview=slideshow

Pictures
http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Dodge%20Sport%20Quad%20Headlight%20Conversion/


 Below is the Parts list complete with part numbers & prices. except for the fuse holders, I got most all parts from 

 you can find these parts at most auto or electronic's stores and they don't have to be these brands either but i suggest using quality relays w/holders to make replacement easy. 

COMPLETE PARTS LIST for HD HEADLIGHT HARNESS (sport HL)

***note***  This Parts list is for reference only.. Vendor, Manufacture & Brands are open to your preference 

   2-male headlight connector (same as bulb)............................................#CP9004CM..............7.49ea.

   2- Ceramic female 9004 Connectors                                                       #CP9007CFC.............7.49ea

   2-Ceramic female 9007 Connectors.......................................................#CP9004CFC.............7.49ea

.

   4-HELLA SPST Relays, 40A, Dual 87 outs, .............................................#HL87483...............8.00ea. 

   **Option**   4-SPST HELLA Relays, 40AMP, Dual 87 outs, with Diode.............................#HL87753..........13.00ea.   NO LONGER AVAILABLE    

   **Option**   4-SPST HELLA Relays, 30AMP, Dual 87 outs, with Diode..............................#HL87453..........8.00ea.     Available @ ralleylights.com

****** Note******* It is not mandatory to use the ones with diodes or resistors, it just helps insure safety for stereo sys, CB & The entire electronic system from EF Feedback.. You could use 30amp relays as you are using separate low and high beam circuits.

                In the beginning i was originally trying to use only 2 Relays, 1 on each side. I found out later this to be "IMPOSSIBLE" . YOU MUST HAVE 4-RELAYS..  You can use ones with single 87 out and wire together,, the Dual 87 out just makes a nice clean wiring system and i hat cobbled up wiring

   4-Relay Holders, complete with terminals....................................................#HL87123.................3.77ea.

I Strongly recommend using Holders, it will make changing a relay out as easy as changing a fuse if you should ever have to

  I got the fuse holders from Advance Auto....."Bussmann Inline, 12ga. wires............#BP/HUU...................5.49ea.

        I got the Dodge OEM Sport Headlight assembly's @ http://www.factorymopar.com they are a Dodge dealer with online OEM parts. there prices are way below local Dealership.

                             Sport Headlight Assembly's  :

                             price=  233.64.. left side

                                         225.38 ..right side

 There are Cheeper Options for the The Sport Headlights but be forewarned of the cheap knockoffs and there problems like "leaking", , not very good fitment or alignment, ,poor quality Adjusters that make adjustment difficult or impossible>>>

"This is important cause you will have to dial these in and insure the Beam is to the left on LOW BEAM Driver side as to keep from blinding oncoming Cars.    "The OEM Lights are pretty close out of the box "..  

    A salvage yard would probably be a good source if you could find any thats not damaged.

**UPDATE PLEASE READ **

   I have had several Guys PM me asking why is it that there HB indicator light stays burning even on LB...most of the time this issue is caused by wires being in wrong location on one of the Headlight plugs .  A weak GROUND circuit will also cause this,   You have to have a solid -GND circuit to the Headlight connectors. I used the spare Side post Terminal's on my OPTMA RED TOP BATTERIES POS+ & GND - post.  BUT: There is a Post on front inner fender just below the Battery, there is a Solid 8# wire that runs from there that goes to Neg- post  battery terminal on battery so this is as good as going straight to Neg without having a bunch of wires hanging off of your Battery causing mores battery issues in the future.. But first be sure it is solid and clean,, if not solid and free from corrosion then replace it.

The other cause would be that you have a wire in the wrong place on the back of one or more H L connectors or in the conversion plug itself.

Dodge sport Quad headlight conversion.doc

Dodge Sport Quad Headlight Conversion- Relays.doc