First off, if you haven't looked at it, The_Hammer has written an outstanding article that can be found at the link below.  I am not going to try to duplicate the article, as it is outstanding and should be referenced prior to doing the installation.  However, if you have a 00-02 truck then your job is a bit easier as Mopar makes a drop in complete assembly for the later model trucks.  

I consider this upgrade to be one of the absolute best modifications I have made to my truck.  It steers amazingly well now and I wish I had done it earlier.  If you need to align the truck after installing any front end parts, check out my alignment article here as well, and with care you can do an alignment that is as good as a commercial alignment on any patch of level pavement. 

The part numbers have changed over the years, and some are no longer available.  However, there is one key item that allows us to make this modification.  

• 94-99 old style taper knuckles and pitman arm
• 00-02 trucks have new style taper in knuckles and pitman arm
• 03-08 trucks have the new style same as the 00-02
• 08.5-12 trucks also have the same taper as the 00-02 and 03-08 trucks

The part number for the linkage without the pitman arm or steering damper is 52122362AH.  

Notes to keep you from searching for days trying to find the answers:

• I did not need a new pitman arm.  
• You WILL need 3rd gen or bigger wheels.  The tie rod joints are much heavier than the stock light duty type and will contact the stock 2nd gen wheels.  
• You may need to do a tiny bit of grinding on the tie rod joints right where they approach the brake rotor dust shield, I didn't and had about 1/8 inch clearance, but every casting is slightly different. 
• Some trucks have had some issues with their pitman arm bolt hitting the new tie rod, but I have not had this issue and seem to have more than adequate clearance.  If you do have clearance issues, the new style pitman arm, part number 68039930AA may fit and will give you additional clearance.  Others cut the bolt of the pitman arm shorter to add additional clearance.  Your mileage may vary.  
• You will need a nut for the steering dampener, I will get the size and fitment of that bolt when I get one and add it here. 
• I found it easiest to install the steering link, the passenger's side tie rod joint, then the drivers side joint, in that order. 
• Some guys report that the kit does not have sufficient adjustment to fully align the trucks.  I did not find this to be the case, however if your truck is levelled without an adjustable track bar or your truck is bent, you will likely run out of adjustment in the steering linkage to recenter your steering wheel.  You could disassemble it and cut some of the threaded portion out of the link, or you could get an adjustable track bar.  Just an FYI.  
• Some guys have also bought reamers for their pre 00 trucks and have reamed the knuckles and pitman arms out to the new style taper.  

I will make one addition to The_Hammer's article, or call it a trick to get the tie rods out of the knuckles.  Hit it like a man with a big hammer right as shown in the picture. Given a half dozen good solid whacks, mine literally fell out on their own.  

4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System

4 Wheel Anti-Lock Braking System Wiring Diagrams

4 wheel abs system.pdf

I find it's really common to hear people complain about ABS and BRAKE lights being lit. There are a few simple things you can do to diagnose your problem.

• Check your ABS fuses under the hood fuse #11 and check the #3 fuse inside the cab (driver side door jamb). Replace any that are blown.

• Step on you brake pedal and see if the tail lights light up and turn off when released. If not, repair the brake light switch.

• Shift the transfer case into 4WD and check if the 4WD light comes on. (4WD equipped vehicles). If not repair the 4WD switch.

• Does the speedometer work? If so, the rear speed sensor in the differential is functional.

So now that you done that much that means that it one of the front speed sensors that has either become disconnected or the sensor has failed.

If the lights remain the only way I know to diagnose this correctly is at a Dodge dealer. They have the tools to hook up to the ABS computer and pull the error codes and tell you what has failed.

Once you've repaired the problem you must drive the vehicle to reset the ABS and BRAKE lights. Also, take the second and check the error codes on the ECM/PCM and reset any error codes.

Description - CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes)

The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) monitors wheel speed sensor inputs continuously while the vehicle is in motion. However, the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) will not activate any ABS components as long as sensor inputs indicate normal braking. During normal braking, the master cylinder, power booster and wheel brake units all function as they would in a vehicle without ABS. The HCU components are not activated.

The purpose of the antilock system is to prevent wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip. Preventing lockup helps maintain vehicle braking action and steering control. The antilock CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) activates the system whenever sensor signals indicate periods of wheel slip. Periods of wheel slip occur when brake stops involve high pedal pressure and rate of vehicle deceleration. The antilock system prevents lockup during a wheel slip condition by modulating fluid apply pressure to the wheel brake units. Brake fluid applies pressure is modulated according to wheel speed, a degree of slip and rate of deceleration. Sensors at each front wheel convert wheel speed into electrical signals. These signals are transmitted to the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) for processing and determination of wheel slip and deceleration rate.

The ABS system has three fluid pressure control channels. The front brakes are controlled separately and the rear brakes in tandem. A speed sensor input signal indicating a wheel slip condition activates the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) antilock program. There are Two solenoid valves (Isolation and Dump valve) which are used in each antilock control channel. The valves are all located within the HCU valve body and work in pairs to either increase, hold, or decrease apply pressure as needed in the individual control channels. During an ABS stop, the ISO valve actuates, Stopping any more pressure buildup to the calipers. Then the Dump valve dumps off pressure until the wheel unlocks. This will continue until the wheels quit slipping altogether.

Operation - System Self-Test

Battery voltage is supplied to the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) when a speed of 15 miles per hour is reached. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) performs a system initialization procedure at this point. Initialization consists of a static and dynamic self-check of system electrical components. The static and dynamic checks occur at ignition start up. During the dynamic check, the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) briefly cycles the pump and solenoids to verify operation. An audible noise may be heard during this self-check. This noise should be considered normal. If an ABS component exhibits a fault during initialization, the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) illuminates the amber warning light and registers a fault code in the microprocessor memory.

Mopar's Note: OBDII Testing / DRBIII Testing

As for testing equipment the ODBII code reader will only see P0500 error code but the DRBIII tool that Dodge dealer has been capable of seeing all speed sensors and test the ABS braking system for it faults. A lot of people ask me how much a DRBIII tool cost... They are approximate $6,000.00 for a DRBIII tool. So it might be worth a trip to the dealer and have them diagnose the system for you.

Speed Sensor Operation

The Wheel Speed Sensor consists of a magnet surrounded by windings from a single strand of wire. The sensor sends a small AC signal to the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes). This signal is generated by magnetic induction. The magnetic induction is created when a toothed sensor ring (exciter ring or tone wheel) passes the stationary magnetic WSS.

When the ring gear is rotated, the exciter ring passes the tip of the WSS. As the exciter ring tooth approaches the tip of the WSS, the magnetic lines of force expand, causing the magnetic field to cut across the sensor's windings. This, in turn, causes current to flow through the WSS circuit in one direction.

When the exciter ring tooth moves away from the sensor tip, the magnetic lines of force collapse cutting the winding in the opposite direction. This causes the current to flow in the opposite direction. Every time a tooth of the exciter ring passes the tip of the WSS, an AC signal is generated. Each AC signal (positive to negative signal or sine wave) is interpreted by the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes). It then compares the frequency of the sinewave to a time value to calculate vehicle speed. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) continues to monitor the frequency to determine a deceleration rate that would indicate a possible wheel-locking tendency.

The signal strength of any magnetic induction sensor is directly affected by:

• Magnetic field strength; the stronger the magnetic field, the stronger the signal
• Number of windings in the sensor; more windings provide a stronger signal
• Exciter ring speed; the faster the exciter ring/tone wheel rotates, the stronger the signal will be
• Distance between the exciter ring teeth and WSS; the closer the WSS is to the exciter ring/tone wheel, the stronger the signal will be

The rear WSS is not adjustable. A clearance specification has been established for manufacturing tolerances. If the clearance is not within these specifications, then either the WSS or other components may be damaged. The clearance between the WSS and the exciter ring is 0.005 - 0.050 in.

Resetting the ABS / BRAKE light

You must repair/replace the damaged sensor/unit of the ABS braking system then drive the vehicle a short distance at road speeds before the lights will go off. The ABS module does an on the fly diagnostic of all the system and if all sensor is reporting properly the system will automatically reset at a speed of 15 MPH.

CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) Inputs

The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) continuously monitors the speed of the differential ring gear by monitoring signals generated by the rear wheel speed sensor. The CAB determines a wheel locking tendency when it recognizes the ring gear is decelerating too rapidly. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) monitors the following inputs to determine when a wheel locking tendency may exist:

CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) Outputs

The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) controls the following outputs for anti-lock braking and brake warning information:

• RWAL Valve
• ABS Warning Lamp
• Brake Warning Lamp

Mopar's Notes: P0500 Error Code - Explained

Since 4 wheel anti-lock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensors could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

Adding inline power steering filter with system flush

Parts

One (1) inline transmission filter with ⅜” fittings

Two (2) hose clamps (size #8, ⁷⁄₁₆-1”

Three (3) qt.  2002 and older:  Mopar MS 5931 or equivalent

                    2003 and newer: Mopar ATF+4 type 9602 or equivalent 

Tools

Utility knife

¼” nut driver

3’ ⅜” hose

3” ⅜ tubing

One Drain pan

Long funnel 

I used a Magnefine inline transmission / power steering filter.   You can fine these filters at Amazon and eBay but the manufacture has introduced a new style of filter.  https://magnefinefilters.com/

Jack the front of the truck up and support with jack stands and block the rear wheels, this will unload the tires for EZ turning.  

Find the return line that goes from the steering box to the rear of the power steering pump. It makes a large ark and the top of the ark is below and to the right of the battery.

 This is where you will cut the hose.

After the hose is cut insert the 3” tube into one end of the 3’ hose and the other end of the 3” tube into the cut return hose that is coming off the steering box.  Now rout the 3’ hose down past the frame and into a container that will hold 1 gallon or more of fluid.  Do not worry about the other cut end of the hose no fluid will come from there.

Take the cap off the power steering pump and insert the funnel. Start the engine with your foot on the brake and turn the steering wheel.  Turn engine off after 10 seconds and refill the power steering reservoir and repeat.   Repeat for at least 1qt or until the fluid is clean.  I had a helper in the cab turning the steering wheel while I poured the fluid.  I used 2qt real fast doing it this way.

After flushing remove the 3’ hose with the tubing.  Lube the filter fittings, I use petroleum jelly.  Slid the hose clamps onto the hoses, making note of flow arrow on filter, it must be pointed toward the pump, press the filter into the hoses using a twisting motion until seated.  Slide the clamps in place and tighten.  Fill pump reservoir, start, stop, and recheck fluid level.  There will be air entrained with the fluid and it will make the steering wheel and brake pedal jerky, this will subside as the air leaves the fluid.  With the wheels still off the ground and the engine running turn the steering wheel full lock to lock 10 times and recheck.  This will help get the air out faster.  It may take a day or two to get all the air out.  

 I routed the filter/hose on top of the wire harness when done.

..............................................................................................

Update...7/25/2025

It has been 8years 9months and 44,888 miles since I installed the Magnefine filter and flushed the power steering system, so it was time to flush the power steering fluid and replace the filter again. I used an oil syringe fluid evacuator pump this time to remove and refill the fluid at the power steering pump. The picture below shows the first time the fluid was removed from the system

It took 5 remove, refill, and run engine for 4secounds to get the fluid to this clear color, about 2qts.

Here is the filter cut open. It looks like the filter could last 60,000+ miles before changing.

There was just a fine film on the magnet.

Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin's Mobile

Maintenance

AKA: ibmobile

9/6/2016

Edit: 3/28/2019 

So I finally replaced the brake lines on my Dodge. I bought them off the web, and went with this stainless steel kit. Some things to note.

Website For Brake Lines https://www.sstubes.com/

Website for Body Bolts https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hillman-hex-body-bolt-5-16-in-18-x-1-in-with-washer-for-gm-ford

These guys were awesome, and the lines came out in a big box, and they were fairly close to the oem ones.

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WARNING!!!!!!

DO NOT! I REPEAT DO NOT! Get rid of this junction block.

I made this mistake and found out you cannot get it anywhere. No one makes a repo part!

Here are some photos of the brake lines from them.

The brake line install was fairly painless. If you need to replace the body bolts like I did, they can be found at Tractor Supply Company.

First things first. Go out and take a look at your Dana 80. Now, I don't have a photo of the other type for comparison, but there are actually two different Dana 80's in the 2001 and 2002 model year. This is important to get the proper seal. For my axle, in a 2001.5 Ram 3500 quad cab 2wd diesel 6 speed, it has the non flanged yoke and the double stepped down pinion shaft seal.

Part number is 5015618AB from Dodge...

Now the other seal (for the flanged yoke) is 5073944AA... Here is a picture of what a NON FLANGED YOKE looks like.

So.. If yours looks like this, you must go with the top seal ending in AB...

Now for the required tools.....

-Some kind of torque multiplier (Pinion nut is TIGHT)

-Various hand tools (sockets and driver to remove the driveshaft)

-Craftsman, 2 jaw puller, small one and the large one

-24" Pipe wrench or miller tool 6719 yoke holder. I am poor, so I used a pipe wrench.....

-1 7/8" craftsman 3/4" drive socket. Details later....

-torque wrench

Now, about the 1 7/8" socket... You can go try and find a thin wall socket of that size, or you can spend $25 bucks at sears for this socket and take some meat off it (yoke is thick inside around the nut for strength)

Now how to do this.... First, the service manual says you need to check pinion bearing preload with an in-lb dial type torque wrench with the wheels and brake completely removed. I did not do this. Why? Because I used to work at a Dodge dealer and we NEVER had any problems doing it the way I did mine and am about to explain to you.

This axle does not use crush sleeves for bearing pre-load... It uses shims, like most H.D. rear ends. Now, the way I do this is the same way that the FORD service manual spells out the procedure for their trucks equipped with the dana 80.

Ok, so here is the problem...

1. First thing you want to do is clean and dry up everything around the yoke as best you can.

2. Mark everything with a sharpie or paint pen to realign it later.

3. Block the front tires and support the rear of the truck with jack stands.- or do this on your lift. Also put tranny in neutral.

4. Remove the u-joint retaining hardware. The u-joint caps on mine were rusted into the yoke... Don't use a hammer to try and free it if yours is this way, you can damage the pinion bearings. Take a big pry bar and pry it apart. It will come.

--Now you can see that beast of a nut. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the treads of the pinion shaft to make it easier to unscrew.

5. Take your pipe wrench or yoke holder and pin it against the frame or put a cheater pipe over the end and brace it against the ground. You are trying to secure the pinion and yoke from rotating as you try to remove the nut.

6. Hope you ate your wheaties, if you don't have a tq. multiplier you are going to have to get a 3/4 drive breakover bar and cheater to get this thing loose or a beast of an impact... I used a 1:6 torque multiplier that is 1/2" input and 3/4 out. It was tight.

and once its loose, you can just start unscrewing it.

7. Get your 2 jaw puller and go to town on that yoke.... MARK IT FIRST!!! It needs to go back on in the same position it came off!!! It is tight all the way off!!!!

Inspect it... Probably will have a nice little groove... Mine did... If the groove is bad enough, it WILL ruin your seal quickly. You can get a SKF Speedi Sleeve for the yoke or buy a new yoke from dodge ($140)

8. Now you can pull the seal out. Mine was a bit** and I ended up just destroying it to get it out... :banghead:

Now you are almost to the finish line!!!!

9. Use a seal driver to install the seal. Make sure it is seated fully.

10. Put the yoke back on. It is tight!! You will have to use a rubber mallet probably to get it seated far enough to thread the nut and washer to get it cinched down the rest of the way....

11. Tighten it up until the yoke is back in it's home completely.

12. Get your pipe wrench again and pin the yoke where it wont try and rotate. Torque the nut to around 450-500 lbs. Most will disagree on this step, there is some debate about on the correct torque for used bearings... I have seen them do it at most shops, they just impact it off and then back on... I don't trust that method... I set my torque wrench to 80lbs through a 1:6 multiplier and came out with something close to the factory tq. spec. NOTE: most say to use a new nut, but I did NOT. WE shall see if this bites me later on. I don't THINK it will loosen up from 500 ft lbs. That is pretty tight. But who knows....

This procedure is for rear disc brake trucks. 2001.5+ model years.

First block the front tires so the truck can't roll. Then jack up the rear axle of the truck till the tires are off the ground. Use jack stand under the rear axle. Don't set the brake!

SAFETY FIRST!

Now crawl under truck. The picture shown here is the driver side axle hub. There will be a notch in the bracket and in the notch is a rubber plug. You'll need a pair of needle nose pliers to reach in and pull the plug out. Now take a flashlight and look in the notch and you'll see a star wheel. You need to use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the star wheel. Check the wheel for drag by turning. If the shoes start to drag back it off a click or two. Then double check to see if it dragging again.

Now do the other side the same way. Replace the rubber plugs. Now your done.

Which direction to turn the star wheel to tighten? That's a simple answer. In the picture above you would want to be turning the star wheel downward away from the axle to tighten the brakes up. so basically this holds true for both sides. So the passenger side you would want to turn it down and away from the axle. If you reverse this you'll loosen the shoes up. Remember to check for rolling slack they shouldn't drag at all!

Here is a few more pics so you can understand the setup better.

I would like to make a shout out to the member that sent me the front sensor back in the spring of the year. Long overdue but now I got the time to replace my well wore out and damaged ABS sensors.

So here we go I'm going to do both side. Total time to replace is 30 minutes for both.

Start out by jacking up the front axle and jack standing the axle for safety.

Now remove the tire using the proper socket and impact gun. Mine being aftermarket wheels is a 3/4" socket. After the wheel is removed grab a large flat blade screwdriver and pry both caliper piston back a little. Now using a 5/8" 12 point socket remove the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Now lift off the caliper and frame as a assembly. Now you should be able to remove the rotor.

Note: Early series trucks have the rotors held in place by the wheel studs which requires removal of the unit bearing.

Now grab a proper sized Allen wrench to remove the Allen bolt holding the speed sensor. Now you may lightly bend the shield metal up to gain some room.

Now I'm working with the passenger side so I got to get the BHAF and heat shield out of the way. Now I will have access to the connector up top.

So now just careful remove all the old ABS sensor and lead taking note of where its routed along the brake line and frame. Now route the new sensor in the very same manner. Making sure to snap in the wire in all the clips and push the holders back into the holes on the frame.

Now carefully bend the shield metal back down over the ABS speed sensor. Slide your rotor back up on the wheel studs. If you need to use a pair of open face lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Now slip the caliper and frame back over the rotor. Grab your blue loc-tite and put a bit on the bolts. Re-install the two bolts holding the caliper frame.

Before mounting your wheel again double check that the wire is out of the way of any moving parts and not going to be damaged. Now remount your wheel and tire and torque your lug nuts.

Now for the lights ABS and BRAKE both lights should go out within a very short amount of travel. Like in my case just getting outside the door frame of the shop the ABS and BRAKE lights went out. 

Before you break down the double cardan joint mark it so you get it back together the same way. I used a file a scratch a line across all the pieces. It hard to see but there is a line across the left joint cap, the middle joint and the rear joint cap.

Now using my Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press I'm simple driving the cap out the other side and disassembling the double cardan joint from the flange end working towards the shaft. When you take it all apart now check your centering ball and bearing. Mine was in sad shape. As you'll see all the needle bearing fell out (ashtray) and no grease was left. 

So I made a cal to the local NAPA store and they had the centering ball in stock bit pricey at $80 but I needed. It made by SKF and part number is UJ617.

Now you need to clean up your old end remove all the grease and dirt. I piled up a good goob of grease in the bottom before installing the ball. 

Now using a socket to drive the ball into the joint end.

Now drive your seal in place with the same socket just do it very light tapping with your hammer or small ball peen. Now the grease should of been shoved into the needle bearings. You notice there is a small hole for the grease to ooze out the bottom and filled the needle bearings.

Now start to assemble your u-joint is the shaft. Again using a Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press which is awesome because you'll never have to strike the drive shaft with a hammer or worry about needle bearing to falling over. Now during this process the first cap I will drive too far to the other side but not out of the yoke. This is to push the cross over to the other side a bit more so when you place your other cap it already started on the cross arm and less risk of the needle bearing falling out. before driving it in place your clip on the first cap.

Now I did things a bit different and assembled my last joint in the rear flange. What you have to do is place your spring in the shaft with a bit a of grease to hold it. Then tilt the ball just enough to so you can start the cross of the u-joint and the centering ball at the same time. Be patient there is enough room and it will go in.

Finished product... So when you are done it should move in all directions freely without binding. Make sure to grease all your joint before installing the shaft.

For the front joint I just used the vise and pump grease till the red was seen in all ends. 

Now install the front driveshaft...

What a double cardan joint looks like moving...

Beast lost his hydrobooster while my wife and I were down in Boise. While I was down in Boise, I made the call and got a hydrobooster ordered, thinking just direct replacement. Nope!

Removal and Installation

So to remove the hydrobooster your going to need a few tools. Take a 15mm socket deep well and remove the two nuts holding the master cylinder to the hydrobooster. Now carefully capture the rubber seal in the back of the master cylinder too. Pull the master cylinder forward just enough to allow the hydrobooster out. Now remove the 3 pressure lines with a open end 18mm wrench and move those out of the way. The return hose is a spring clamp and just squeeze the clamp and slide back. Pull the hose off. Last step out here to pull the batteries so the brake lights are not burning. Now under the dash locate the rod from the hydrobooster and remive the clip on the pedal pin. This might be a bit tricky but it has tab that laps over the pin to lock and you need to lightly flex it up and over the pin whil pulling the tab. Capture the flat washer on the pin. Noe up in the dash there is 15mm nuts hold the hydrobooster in place deep well sockets are required. The top right hand nut you need to come in from the top there is a passage hole for the socket to fit through. At this point you should be able to remove the hydrobooster carefully.

Reassemble in reverse. Just remember to put the fresh o-rings on your pressure hoses so it sealed properly.

Be aware...

• The documents in the box from NAPA are very clear; you need to swap parts from your old unit to make the new unit work.

• The shaft that pushes the master cylinder, you might have to swap as I did. The new shaft was 10mm too long, which is the brake dragging issue.

• Then the rubber boot on the input shaft has be pryed off the input shaft collar. Yea! I got that.

• Then, the adapter plate that mounts the brake reservoir / master cylinder.

Rubber boot that goes on the input rod.

Approximate length of the rod installed in the new hydrobooster.

The master cylinder adapter so the master cylinder will mount!

Adapter all on and tight. As for changing the rod that is done by flipping the armed washer like a freeze plug and then work the two arms out of the groove. WARNING: Flying part hazard. The armed washer and the spring will fly so be careful and aware!

First off I want to start with how to get correct final ratios. Remember that for most trucks was a 265/75 R16 tire... Like my truck came with 265/75 R16 tires even though the door sticker states 245/75 R16. The 245/75 R16 was used in the early 24V body design. The most common axle is 3.55 gears. If you are going to use a larger than stock tire makes sure to have 4.10 gears. Its a REQUIREMENT!

Final Ratio Goals

Optimal Goal

Let me just state you aiming for a final ratio of 3.55 to 3.73 which is the most optimal for power and economy.

Let's just show how just a small jump from 265's to 285/75 R16 turns the final ratio. This will now create a final ratio of 3.42:1 which is a marginal you could use it but optimally it will add more EGT's and higher engine loads. The more you keep increasing the tire size it will drop the final ratio too low. For example, going from 265/75 R16 to 37 x 12.50 R16 you are now at 3.04 for the final ratio. Again you cannot install large tires on a 3.55 geared axle. This combination is going to create super high EGT's and high engine loads so the power is greatly reduced and the EGT's will sore well past 1,200*F. Another wanting to run oversized tires should consider installing 4.10 gear for everything up to 37-inch tires. This again impacts even tuning with the Quadzilla being you are going to require a large drop in timing more retard timings just so the turbo will spool quicker.

The tool I use to find the final ratio to the ground.

https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

Me personally, I ditched the 265/65 R16 and opted for the 245/75 R16 being that gives a final ratio of 3.69.1. Cruising at 66 MPH is just about dead money at 2,000 RPM. At 82 MPH you are at 2,500 RPMs. This is a good ratio. I've gotten many trips to Boise down the I84 interstate at 80 MPH and cleared 20 MPG commonly. I'm also NV4500 transmission (0.75:1) where a 47RE transmission is lower yet at (0.69:1) these should be a touch lower in RPM. The NV5600 is close to the NV4500 at (0.73:1).

Geometry

Now a lot of people don't know but just adding a 1-inch lift to a 2nd Gen truck will screw all the angles up in the axle. Even the 2-inch lift will do it even worse. The problem is the axle is swung on 4 control arms. When you add lift to the axle you are swinging the axle downwards as it swings down more the control arms are fixed and the axle rolls forward more which now makes for a more neutral caster angle. This could be corrected by install adjustable control arms on the bottom this would allow you to recover most of the caster angle. Then as you lift or level the front axle the track bar is a fixed length since its farther from the frame the track bar will pull the axle to the left side some this now enhances the thrust angle to the left. Between these two angles, you now created a truck that has poor centering on the highway and darts. Then the thrust angle is off it will tend to pull left. You could install an adjustable track bar to correct the thrust angle. 

Wide wheels tend to place a lot of stress on the wheel bearings and ball joint being most have quite a bit of offset having the wheel poking out of the wheel well. Being you've added a long lever to pry against the bearings and the ball joints. In any case, you are going to add a lot of load on the steering box. I recommend using the standard ratio steering box. This is a lower gear ratio steering box and makes it easier for the box to steer those wide tires and reduce stress. 

I highly recommend that you find a good alignment shop that does not work out of a book someone that understands the lifted truck and the needed angle changes to make a stable ride. 

Acceleration

The larger your wheels and tires, the more mass you have in the wheels the more it will take to get the axles rolling. The rule of thumb is for every 1 pound of rotational mas you remove is like 8 pounds off the frame. To show this you might remember the park where those big merry go rounds.



Like this one, you could get about 2 or 3 kids to pull it around. Bigger the Merry go round got the more kids you needed to get it up to speed. Maybe even a few adults to help out. The point is the more mass in any rotational part is going to take even more power or energy to get it spinning and even more to hold the speed up. I've studied this on many trucks and driven plenty of oversized trucks too. No matter what larger tires do come at a cost of loss of power and lowered MPGs. The only way to make it better is to ditch the weight. which most after spending a small fortune outfitting with new wheels and tires. Hence why this article is to warn most of what you coming into. Being this weighed load is there you find that EGT's are going to be higher and the engine loads to maintain speed are higher. 

Example of this in real life. I went to a dyno event with my truck back in 2006. All I had was stock injectors and Edge Comp. I was green to the whole dyno event but rush to get in line to run the rollers. One I ran the rollers I had 381/831 on my dyno sheet. Now my buddy with a 96 Dodge 12V jump in and ran the rollers came up just short 362/825. I gave him a big load of crap over it. He requested to get off the rollers after his first run. He pulled out in the lot and pull the outer two dual tires off and got back up on the rollers grinning. I didn't know why. Now I know why after shedding the rotational mass of the outer dual wheels and ran on the inners alone and surpassed me in power.  He had a net gain of about 28 HP gain which gave him the win at 390 HP. 

Another example at the same dyno shop different events. I have seen a jacked-up Ford on the rollers and barely made 260 HP with 37-inch tires. Then he rolled off the rollers and took off the 37-inch tires and put on stock 31-inch tires and well in the 400 HP range. Again larger tires do limit the power to the ground.  Looks cool but steals the power from getting to the ground. 

Achievements

As for my own truck I never used any leveling kits or lift kits its complete stock. I've changed only one set of ball joints at 180k miles. I bought some cheap ball joints off of RockAuto years ago and now over 250k miles and still running those ball joints. OEM Tie Rod Ends lasted for 350k miles and was replaced only once. As for the track bar, I'll admit will all the offroad driving I manage to typically wear them out at about 100 to 150k miles for a NAPA track bar. I've replaced a few. Brakes wise I go upwards of 200k miles for a set of brake shoes. Yes, I have an exhaust brake and use it every day. With running the optimal ratio that I am I shaved off at least...

• At least -100°F in EGT temperature.
• At least -30°F in transmission temperature.
• At least 5% engine load reduction.
• At least +2 to +3 MPG gain.
• Most suspernsion parts lasting 200k miles. 
• Lower Differential temperatures.
• More power produced at lower RPMs.

Never had a single case of death wobble, never had any tracking issues or sloppy steering. I'm currently at 421k miles at the time of this article. 

 Over the few years I've been here on the forum tire pressure has come up in conversation more than once. 

 Below you'll find the OEM tire pressure recommendations and they're also broken down in to the status of the vehicle as far as the load it is hauling. I found this information both interesting and helpful.

 It will assist with maintaining the health of your tires by keeping your pressures adjusted according to the state of load on your tires. To much or to little pressure will result in premature tire wear as we all know.