It not to hard to check to see if you have high idle software present. The only thing you need is a resistor that is a 39k ohm or greater up to no more than 100k ohm resistor. The other requirement is to have a cold engine. Engine coolant temperature must be below 140*F for this test to work properly. Just unplug the IAT sensor and take your resistor and fold the legs over and insert into the plug. Make sure to the IAT and the resistor are not touch metal or ground. You could put a fold of tape over the plug and resistor for temporary cover. Now just start your truck and leave it idle don't touch the throttle, brakes, trans (auto), etc. Leave it alone for up to 5 minutes. Typically 2-3 minutes you should hear the idle ramping up to 1,200 RPM's. If the resistor is greater than 56K ohms then the 3 cylinder high idle will pop up next after reaching 1,200 RPM's.

Here is the IAT plug removed from the IAT sensor.

Here is with a resistor inserted into the two sockets of the IAT plug.

Here is another version of high idle you can produce for you dodge Cummins. A member over at Cummins Forum came to me with his version of high idle. Thank you WJBell for your information and allowing me to post here on my site...

WJBell's High Idle Write Up

Original Information is here.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/111278-mechanical-high-idle-bomb-completed.html

Since seeing Mopar Mans high idle I've been wanting to do something like it. I live in California so I really don't need it but for cold morning warms up's it's kind of nice. And if I idle it for a long time I've heard you can cake up the valves or warp cylinders. So I checked with three different dealers in my area and they all wanted $100+ to program the stock high idle. What I really wanted was the PTO idle controlled through cruise control but not available for my 2001.

So... I decided to make my own PTO idle.

I looked through some different posts and a couple guys did it with a high idle solenoid from Chevy's with a Rochester carb. So I went to pick & Pull today and picked one up for $7 off of a late 70's early 80's truck. Then I went to Ace hardware and picked up some 1/16 steel cable, a cable end stop and a thing to slip over the cable to tie it down.

The one guy I saw mounted it on his APPS to push the throttle open, like an extended stop screw for the throttle. I didn't want to leave my APPS cover off or hack it up so I looked where I could mount it where the pedal pulls the cable under the dash. It wouldn't fit behind the pedal lever but there was a place where I could mount it where it pulled the top of the pedal where the cable was. And there is a bolt there in perfect position to mount the existing bracket on the solenoid. All I had to do is hacksaw off part of the bracket and it fit perfect.

So I got a piece of 1/4 thick aluminum roughly about 1 3/4" long and 3/4" wide and mounted it to the end piece of the solenoid, drilling through them both and securing it with one machine screw. Then on the other end where the cable comes through I got a short, 3/4" long bolt (not sure what size but something that will fit into the aluminum bracket) and drilled it out though the center. Then drilled the aluminum bracket a little smaller than the bolt and force threaded the bolt into the bracket. (poor man's tap & die. Hey, it's aluminum!) So now the cable feeds in through the top of the bolt and you can fine tune the idle speed by tightening or backing out the bolt. So I ran the cable through, looped it around the pedal and tied it together with a 1/8" (can't remember what it's called) with an Allen set screw to tighten it down.

I already had a switch wired through a relay up in my overhead sunglasses compartment so I just wired it to the solenoid.

Started the truck up, flipped the switch and tapped the throttle and idle went up to about 1400. Turned off the switch and it dropped to normal. The solenoid doesn't have enough power to raise the idle by itself, you have to tap the throttle. After some adjustments, I got the high idle to right around 1100-1200. It's sweet. Start the truck, hit the switch and tap the throttle and you're at 1100 rpm. Turn off the switch and you're back to normal.

There's no effect on the pedal, you can't feel any binding, etc.

Works pretty sweet. Not bad for a couple hours work and under $20! I don't have 3 cylinders high idle but if I want that I'll just unplug three of the spark plugs.

The part number for the solenoid is 1997461 and here's a list of cars it comes on. Hit your local pick & pull and you can pick one up for less than $10.

1977 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Monte Carlo : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Classic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Estate : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Impala Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Concours : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Caprice : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:

1978 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Oldsmobile : Full Size Oldsmobile (Rwd) : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : 98 Regency : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Custom Cruiser : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 Royale : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Luxury 98 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega Brougham : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega F85 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG   

Parts supplied:

Switch x 1

Switch Harness x 1

Switch Face Sticker x 2

Tools Needed:

Drill + 3/8” bit
Cleaning Wipe
Pliers
Small Flathead

Installing:

First unplug the batteries to prevent any shorting while installing. The Mopar1973Man High Idle Switch
can be mounted anywhere that the harness will reach. The Harness is a total of 10’ long. 4 feet of the
harness is required under the hood. A good place to mount the Mopar1973man.com Cummins High Idle Switch is on the Kick Panel
under the steering wheel.

There are a total of 5 plugs on the harness.

Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Board Plug

The 8 pin plug on the end plugs into the Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Switch Board. It is keyed so it will only fit in one way.
Don‘t plug this in until later.  It is easier to install the Harness without the Board attached.

IAT Plugs

The 2 pin white plugs are the Intake Air Temp sensor plugs.

Plug A plugs into the OEM Sensor on the Engine
Plug B Plugs into the OEM wiring Harness

You can see the OEM Plug/Sensor Location This is the rear Drivers side of the Engine

ECT Plugs

The 2 black 2 pin plugs are Engine Coolant Temp sensor plugs

Plug A plugs into the OEM Sensor on the Engine
Plug B Plugs into the OEM wiring Harness

You can see the OEM Plug Location This is the Front Of the
engine

Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Switch Faceplate Sticker

The Sticker should be placed where you intend to install the Switch. ENSURE YOU CLEAN THE SURFACE
THROUGHLY BEFORE APPLING THE STICKER. Ensure that there is at least 2” of clearance behind the switch location to prevent any possibility of shorting on the back of the switch. The center white section of the Faceplate should be drilled out once placed on the surface. This hole is what the switch will mount through. The High idle Switch will ship with 2 Stickers just in case one gets messed up during the install process.

Power Leads:

These power leads need to go to a fused 12v source, Red goes to 12v and black goes to ground.   They power the LED on the Switch to give you a Green light in MPG mode and a Red / Orange light in high idle mode.  

The switch will work without these wires being connected.

If you need more please contact Support@mopar1973man.com

 
After plugging in the harness plugs to the OEM Sensors and OEM Harness, run the 8 pin Molex through
the firewall. Gently pull the harness through the Firewall until there is no slack. Run the Harness to
where you plan on installing the Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Switch. Ensure to tie up any slack in the harness if it is hanging down.

Remove the Knob on the switch by loosening the set screw on the back of the knob, then remove the
lock nut on the switch. Install the Mopar1973man.com Cummins High Idle Switch through the hole drilled in the sticker. Reinstall the
lock nut to hold the switch tightly. Reinstall the Knob and tighten the set screw. 

Plug the harness into the Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Switch Board. Ensure the Switch position is lined up with the sticker face plate. Turning the switch all the way counter clock wise will be the off position. You can rotate the switch position vs the sticker then tighen the lock nut.

I have also created a couple of videos showing the process.

(Part 1)

(Part 2)

(Part 3)

Installing the Mopar1973man.com high idle kit harness

Mopar1973man.com no longer sells a specific Cubby hole mount, but we do provide the below template if you wish to make one yourself.  You can use the current PCB mounted switch with this faceplate.

As for installing you need to carefully pull your dash bezel from the dash and remove it. Then taking 3 screws out holding the cubby pocket in place and remove. Also remove the 4 screws holding the HVAC controls. This will give you room to routing the wires across the dash.



Now mount the face to the cubby and using the supplied screws and nylon spacers.



Continue to route the wires over to the bulk head.



Then this part is bit tricky and requires patience carefully route the plug through the rubber boot of the bulkhead connector. The bulkhead connector inside can be released from it mount and might give you a few more inches of work room for a single hand.



Now route the connector to the proper placements. Black ECT to the front of the engine and the Grey IAT connectors to the rear of the engine. Now unplug both ECT and IAT and plug in the fooler cables.

ECT


IAT


Then reassemble your Dash.

The only thing I didn't hook up yet was the LED power.

Mopar1973Man.Com High Idle / MPG Fooler Overhead Console Installation

Ed Grafton sent me a Mopar1973Man High Idle switch for me to install into my overhead console, and do a write-up on it  This is for guys that have no where else to put it due to too many gauges, or in the rare case like Jigabop who has too many options

Ed Grafton extended the length of the wiring to allow for the wires to be run from the overhead console, under the headliner, down the A pillar, and into the engine bay.   Whole install took about 2 hours.  

Tools And Supplies Needed

- Drill
- 2 1/8" whole saw
- Smaller drill bit to drill the center ( 1/4" - 3/8" something small to ensure the center hole is in the right position)
- Center Punch
- Straight Edge/Ruler 1/16"
- X Acto Knife
- Wire cutters/Strippers
- Soldering Iron
- Heat Shrink
- Lighter
- Phillips Screw driver
- Super glue or strong glue of choice
- Zip Ties

First thing you need to do is remove and unplug the overhead console.  Do this by opening up the Garage Door Opener holder.  You will see two clips that hold it onto the roof ( near the front).  While pressing the clips pull down the front and slide it back.  

Next you need to remove the wiring and computer.  Remote the Phillips screws hold in the lights (x4) and the Phillips screws holding in the Computer (x3)   ****Notice the hole between the lights,  this is where Mopar1973Man's High Idle wiring harness will be feed through.  There is plenty of room between the console and the roof.


Remove the faceplate from the Mopar1973Man High Idle Switch.  Do this by removing the set screen in the knob and pulling the knob off.  Remove the retaining nut and spacer.   You will need to reinstall this later in the reverse order to take care to remember how it dissembled so you can reassemble it.

Just looking at the Overhead Console you can see it fits about perfect right between the lights.  That being said it is easy to see that if you don't measure the center of the lights you will mess up and break your lights and end up with an off center hole


Measurements you want for the center of the plate is 1" vertical and 13/16" horizontal 
From the corners draw lines to find the center then verify with the above measurements.  Measure and measure again.

User a Center Punch to set the middle for the drill bit.  ENSURE that you are perfectly centered.   If this center is not perfect your faceplate WILL NOT FIT.

After using the Center Punch, place the drill bit in the center to set the center hole for the hole saw.  Again ensure that the drill is set perfectly in the middle BEFORE drilling.


Next use the 2 1/8" Hole saw to cut out a circle for the faceplate to sit in. 

Drill slowly and stop as often as needed to reduce the amount of heat build up to prevent the plastic from melting too much.

Verify that the hole you are cutting fits between the clear lens for the lights.


Again it will be close, but it does fit.  Above all take your time cutting the hole out.  The slower you do it the better the end result will be.  The plastic is bound to melt some, but you can take care of this with the help of an xacto knife.

Once the hole is cut flip over the overhead console and verify that the clip section for the lens is intact.  If you notice any breaks glue them back together.  You may need to remove the lens to ensure you don't loose the functionality of the button press lights by gluing them shut.


Using your faceplate and X-acto knife fit the faceplate into the cut hole.  You may need to cut out some melted plastic etc to get the faceplate to fit good.  Test the movement of the lens once the gauge is test fitted.  Cut overhead console as needed to make the lens work.


Once you are satisfied with the fitment/position of the faceplate glue it into place in the console.  I choose to have the LED towards the back of the truck, but you can rotate the faceplate until it is in the position of your choosing.  Glue from the back in a few locations slowly to ensure that no glue seeps to the front of the faceplate.  Once the glue has dried then install the switch assembly into the faceplate in the reverse order of which you disassembled it.   You will have to test the knob position,  Far left is the off position.  Once you have aligned the switch assembly tighten down the retaining nut that holds the faceplate.   Reinstall the knob and verify again the turning the knob all the way counter-clockwise makes the knob point to the off position.

Next reinstall the lights and computer by feeding Mopar1973Man High Idle wires through the OEM lights and reinstalling the Phillips screws in the reverse order of the above.  Take your time when reinstalling to ensure that the harness fits and the lights click again when you press the lights.  It will take a little work to get everything fitting good, but you will not need to cut anything on the light and button assembly.  Gently bend Mopar1973Man's High Idle harness to contort in the same place as the OEM wires. 

Next you need to supply power to the LED light.  Thankfully there is 12v power already in the overhead console.  The pink wire coming off the plug is 12v and the black wire next to it is ground.   The pink wire is a keyed power wire, the yellow wire is a power that is supplied based upon doors open and interior lights.


Cut the Black and Pink wire with enough length to install heat shrink on the end.  I cut them about 2" from the OEM plug.  Strip the red and black wire that are together in the white conduit.  Ensure that you DON'T cut the wires that go to the OEM plugs for ECT and IAT.  There will be 4 wires in the harness that goes to the engine and 2 wires in the harness that you are cutting.  Pre-install the heatshrink wrap onto the plug side of the cut wires.  Solder together the cut pink wires and the red wire in Mopar1973Man's High Idle harness.  Then Solder together the cut black wires and the black wire in Mopar1973Man's High Idle harness.  Using a lighter heat up the heat shrink wrap to seal your solder splice.  Use a zip tie to hold the wires together.  Test the led in the switch by plugging the OEM connection and turning the High idle switch to any position.  If it doesn't work use a multimeter to test for power to the OEM connector. 

Next remove your sun vizor by removing the 4 Phillips screws holding it to the roof.   Feed the Mopar1973Man's High Idle ECT/IAT harness under the headliner by Gently pulling it down.  It doesn't take much.  Once you feed it through the console hole in the headliner you can pull it towards the A pillar.  There is plenty of room for the harness to run between the window and the front of the headliner.  You can slip it under the headliner easily.  The A pillar cover will pull off by just popping it out.  Use zip ties to the hold Mopar1973Man's High Idle harness to the OEM wiring running down the A pillar. 


Route the wiring through the dash and through the firewall into the Engine bay.  Once at this point the install is the same as the other Types of installs for Mopar1973Man's High Idle switch.  

You will end up with something that looks like this.

1. Wire crimpers and strippers

2. Wire connectors

3. Gauge pod for the steering wheel

4. electrical tape

5. Add-a-circuit fusible tap

6. Tons of zip ties

7. Wire connectors with a round end for a screw or bolt

8. Two sided tape (Usually comes with gauge mount)

9. Fuses

10. Sockets, screwdrivers, dikes, razor blade

Next the install!

1. Take the front knee board off and set it to the side without losing the screws

2. Run the wires for the fooler through the gauge pod 

3. At this step you can either use the supplied glue to hold the fooler tight against the mount, or you can do as I did and add a bit of tape around the edge so that it fits tight and stays in place well.

4. Attach some two sided tape to the sides or the top of the mount. I recommend the sides because the top will lift the mount and make it look goofy. 

5. Tilt the steering wheel all the way down and carefully slip the mount over the top of the adjuster. As you pull it down make sure you pull the edges out so the two sided tape doesn't get caught and ripped off. 

6. Pull the wires around the back side so that they fit comfortably. 

7. At this point route the wires that go to the air intake temp sensor and engine temperature sensor out through rubber with the wiring harness. Zip tie the wires to the steering column wires.

around the 8. Cut away some of the white sheath to the hot and ground wires. Run the hot wire back and up to the fuse panel on the side of the dash. Attach this wire to the add-a-circuit fusible tap. 

I inserted the fusible tap into the #14 slot which is the 10Amp Cluster B. This has power full time. Really any of the links can be used, but I wanted my light to be on full time so that I wouldn't forget to shut it off.

9.  Now attach the Wire connectors with a round end to the ground. I bolted this to the metal frame under the dash. It can be screwed anywhere it will ground effectively.

10. Now to the outside. Run the wires across the top with the existing wiring loom and zip tie them into place 

11. Run the wire that goes to the engine temperature sensor (The longer wire) down to the grid heater wire, to the injection pump wires, around the front of the engine and plug it into the sensor.

12. Now run the wires back to the intake air temperature sensor. This is near the back of the intake plenum AFTER the MAP sensor. I zip tied the original connector to the existing loom to keep it from moving.

13. Cut all of the zip ties and inspect to make sure there won't be any rub spots.

14. Put the knee board back on and test it out.

** Let me know if I left anything out so I can edit it in!

Once the high idle kit is installed its ready for use if the ECM has had the High Idle Feature Enabled, the Dealer can enable this feature, or a Smarty can flash the High Idle into the ECM.  There is a Dodge TSB Covering what needs to be done, Dodge High Idle TSB

You can view the Install Article Here, mopar1973man.com High Idle Switch Install

you can buy a High Idle Switch in our Store - 

General Operation

It's always suggested you set you high idle mode before starting the vehicle. This will insure you going to get the selected mode of operation. If you want to leave it totally automatic high idle then select OFF as it will follow the ECM software for selection. So you should select either 3 CYL or 6 CYL mode before starting.

NOTE: Selecting a high idle mode will enable this mode and remain the set high idle mode for the rest of the key cycle.

Off

OFF is completely stock ECM sees engine coolant temperature and intake manifold temperatures normally.

MPG Mode

MPG mode is a special mode design around extreme cold operation. During winter time the IAT temps will fall to very low temperature. This typically advances timing quite heavily and create quite a bit of engine rattle at cold engine temperature. MPG mode tricks the ECM into believing it's summer time and retards the timing down to a usable level. Most people report at least 1-3 MPG gain from using this mode.

NOTE: Pre-heat grid heater function is disable in this mode.

IAT is 143*f 

ECT is a pass through

6 Cylinder Mode

6 CYL high idle is a special mode in which it was fixed to remain in high idle mode as long as the switch is left in 6 cylinder mode. So this makes it an excellent function for like jump starting other vehicles or keeping vehicle warm in sub-zero temperature. As long as the switch is on 6 Cylinder mode it will not cancel.

NOTE: Engine temperature gauge is disabled during the use of this mode.

IAT is 23*f 

ECT is 140*f

3 Cylinder Mode

3 CYL mode is automatic mode. It will enable the 3 cylinder high idle but will cancel the high idle mode once 170°F of coolant temperature is reached.

IAT is 14*f 

ECT is a pass through

Selecting High Idle Mode While Running

This is possible but not suggested. If you do opt for this make sure to rotate the knob fast. If you turn the knob too slowly the switch will break the circuit on the IAT sensor for too long and might trip the P0113 code which is IAT voltage too high. It also possible to get the wrong mode of high idle from this issue. So you may select 6 cylinder but end up with 3 cylinder.

It is not recommended or supported to use high idle positions other than Off or MPG when the vehicle is in motion.

Canceling Selected High Idle Mode

The only way to cancel a selected high idle mode is to turn off the engine and wait 10 seconds and start again. This will reset the high idle mode. Be sure to set the proper mode you wish to start with either OFF, 6 CYL or 3CYL before starting.   Please note that once ECT temps reach full operating temp the switch can be turned to off and the ecm will not longer high idle.

Safety Systems

All safety system are still in effect for canceling.

• Speed greater than 0 MPH

• Automatic transmission place into gear

• Service brake pedal pressed

• 170°F coolant reached (unless 6 CYL mode is used)

Enhanced Warm Up

For owners with exhaust brake you can enhance your warm up time to under 10 minutes. Select either 3 CYL or 6 CYL modes and set your exhaust brake on. The exhaust brake combined with the high idle will produce higher EGT's which in turn warm the engine faster.

WARNING: Owners with larger than stock injectors be aware EGT's can climb rather high in 3 cylinder mode and can be as high as 1,000 to 1,100°F with a mere +50 HP injectors.

You can see the switch in action, notice the ECT and IAT  sensors changing values.

Models: 1998 1/2-2002 BR/BE Ram Trucks

(2nd Gen Cummins, 1998 .5, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002)

NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL RAM TRUCKS BUILT AFTER DECEMBER 17,1997 AND EQUIPPED WITH THE 24-VALVE 5.9L CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE.

Discussion:

This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Engine Control Module (ECM) with new software (Cal 55Tl8, 57Tl1, 56Tl3, 59T7b, and 59T8b.)

Symptom/Condition:

Extended idle operation, especially in cold weather, can lead to stuck valves and bent push-tubes due to insufficient cylinder heat. This allows varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems, leading to stuck valves, and damaged valve train components. A new software feature, enabled or disabled through the DRB III (See instructions under Repair Procedure), reduces the chance of valve sticking and improves cab heat warm-up time.

Once enabled, idle speed will slowly ramp up from 800 rpm to 1200 rpm when all of the following conditions are met:

1. Intake Manifold Temperature less than 0°C (32°F) and,
2. Coolant Temp is less than 60°C (140°F) and,
3. The Transmission is in Neutral or Park and,
4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed and,
5. Throttle = 0% and,
6. Vehicle Speed = 0 mph

Additionally, if Intake Manifold Temperature (IMT) is less than -9°C (15°F), and all of the parameters above are met, three of the cylinders will be shut off upon reaching 1200 rpm, creating a slight change in engine sound which is normal. This allows the engine to create increased heat in the cooling system, allowing more rapid engine warm up and cab heating.

Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs:

1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or,
2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or,
3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or,
4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or,
5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F).

Engine speed will return to normal operation at 800 rpm. If the engine continues to idle and coolant temperature is at or below 60°C (140°'F), the feature will re enable. In order to operate properly, the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) must stay at idle.

NOTE: ANY TYPE OF AFTERMARKET IDLE SPEED KICKER THAT ACTIVATES THE APPS WILL DISABLE THIS FEATURE.

Use of the 110V block heater will not allow the feature to function after an overnight soak. If the vehicle is left idling, without use of the block heater, 1200 rpm operation will begin when the intake temperature drops below O°C (32°F) and coolant is less than 60°C (140°F).

Diagnosis:

1. Using the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRBIII) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures, verify all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If other Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin.

Parts Required:

Equipment Required:

NOTE: THE MDS2 AND DRB III ARE REQUIRED TO PERFORM PART OF THIS REPAIR. WHEN USING THE MDS2 AND THE DRB III, THE SYSTEM MUST BE OPERATING AT CIS CD 2090 OR HIGHER (2090 ARRIVES IN DEALERSHIPS ON SEPTEMBER 3, 2001).

Repair Procedure:

1. Log onto the MDS2 (Mopar Diagnostic System).

2. Connect the MDS2 and DRBIII to the vehicle and switch the ignition key to"ON".

NOTE: AUTO CONNECTION WILL OCCUR ONCE THE DRB III, MDS2, AND VEHICLE ESTABLISH COMMUNICATION. THE "CANNOT READ VIN FROM DRB III" MESSAGE (ON THE MDS2) WILL BE REPLACED BY THE VEHICLE VIN. PRESS THE "OK" BUTTON ON THE MDS2 TO REQUEST A L4DS2 SESSION FOR THE VEHICLE VIN INDICATED. PRESS THE "OK"BUTTON WHEN ASKED TO BEGIN SESSION.

3. Push the FLASH tab on the MDS2.

4. Select READ PART NUMBERS FROM VEHICLE and click SHOW UPDATES on the MDS2.

NOTE: A MESSAGE MAY APPEAR (AFTER STEP 3 OR 4) THAT INDICATES NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE. IF THIS OCCURS, MAKE SURE YOUR DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT IS OPERATING AT THE LATEST SOFTWARE LEVEL AS LISTED EARLIER IN THIS BULLETIN. IF THE LATEST SOFTWARE IS INSTALLED, AND NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE ANOTHER VEHICLE CONDITION EXISTS THAT WILL REQUIRE FURTHER INVESTIGATION.

5. Select the new software part number with the light pen and click UPDATE CONTROLLER SOFTWARE.

6. The MDS2 and DRB III will prompt for any operator action needed during the remainder of the reprogramming process.

NOTE: DUE TO THE PCM REPROGRAMMING PROCEDURE, A DTC MAY BE SET IN OTHER MODULES (EATX, BCM, MIC, SKIM, ETC.) WITHIN THE VEHICLE, IF SO EQUIPPED. SOME DTC'S MAY CAUSE THE MIL TO ILLUMINATE. ALL DTC'S RELATE TO A LOSS OF COMMUNICATIONS WITH THE MODULE THAT IS BEING REPROGRAMMED. CHECK ALL MODULES, RECORD THE FAULTS, AND ERASE THESE FAULTS PRIOR TO RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. ERASE ANY FAULTS IN THE PCM ONLY AFTER ALL OTHER MODULES HAVE HAD THEIR FAULTS ERASED.

NOTE: ONCE THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED TO THE PROPER SOFTWARE LEVEL, YOU MUST USE THE DRB III TO ENABLE THE 3 CYLINDER IDLE FEATURE. TO DO SO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.

7. Connect the DRB III to the vehicle without connecting to MDS2 and follow the menu structures it appears below.

8. MAIN MENU - 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS

9. 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS - ALL (EXCEPT BELOW)

10. SELECT SYSTEM - 1 ENGINE

11. CONTROLLER TYPE - 1 CUMMINS (ECM/ENGINE)

12. SELECT FUNCTION - 1 MISCELLANEOUS (Misc. is on second page)

13. 3.3 CYLINDER IDLE - Follow the instructions

The DRB III will indicate whether the feature is enabled or disabled.
14. Push 1 to Enable, 2 to Disable.

15. You are instructed to cycle the ignition to complete the repair.

16. Press Page Back to Exit.

NOTE: THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW.

17. Type the necessary information on the "Authorized Software Update Label" p/n 04669020 (Fig. 1). Attach the label to the PCM and cover the label with the clear plastic overlay.

If you want to manually control The ECM high idle you can use the Mopar1973man.com High Idle Switch

the Mopar1973man.com High idle switch is sold through the Forum Store.   you can get to that product and others through this link 

If you are having problems getting the High Idle enabled on your truck you may rent a Smarty from Diesel Auto Power.

Smarty Rental For High Idle Enabling