Now that you've done this, This next section will be of use in understanding what clutches do what and when. If you identify your issue from here great if not then well get to testing pressures.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Line Pressure Testing

OK So now comes the fun part. You will need a pair of pressure gauges. I bought a pair of cheap Home Depot 0-300 psi gauges, and used some grease gun hose and then some nylon tubing to connect the two. As you can see on this chart that it mirrors the Shorthand Diagnostics section.

Using this chart we can now know which test port to use for testing. Now for the testing phase.

Here we can see the locations of the test ports on your 47re. Ports 1-4 are located on the Passenger side, Port #5 is on the drivers side of the transmission above the one transmission cooler line.

Preparations Required.....

So in order to perform these tests you MUST jack the rear axle up so the tires are off the ground, Block the front tires, and then unhook the the TV lever from the transmission side. When testing you want to watch that the accumulator moves in a smooth fashion, and that both ports are reporting where they should be.

You will leave one of the pressure gauges on at the Accumulator port through tests 1-4.

NOTES:

-Built automatics will see different line pressures, all line pressures are for OEM transmission's.

-Built Automatics will see roughly 75-90 psi at idle, and between 120 and 170psi in gear at WOT. Reverse will be over 250psi usually.

-WOT Is defined as the TV lever being moved fully rearward into the open position. You should see a smooth increase of line pressure to the maximum.

Test One:[Manual 1]

This test checks pump output, pressure regulation, and condition of the rear clutch and servo circuit. This test is performed in M1 at 1000 rpm. Line pressure at the accumulator port should be 54-60psi at idle, and gradually increase to 90-96 at WOT (wide open throttle). Rear servo port should have the same pressure within 3psi.

Test Two:[Manual 2]

This test checks pump output, line pressure and pressure regulation. This test is performed in D2 at 1000 rpm. Line pressure should be 54-60psi at idle and gradually increase to 90-96psi at WOT.

Test Three: This test checks pressure regulation and condition of the clutch circuits. This test is performed in D with the O/D switch off at 1600 rpm. Line pressure at the accumulator port should be 54-60psi at idle, and gradually increase to 90-96psi at WOT. Front servo pressure should be the same within 3 psi.

Test Four: This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and the front clutch and rear servo circuits. This test is performed in Reverse at 1600 rpm. Pressure at the accumulator port should be 145-175psi at idle, and gradually increase to 230-260psi at WOT.

Test Five: This test checks governor operation by measuring governor pressure response to changes in vehicle speed. This test is performed in Drive between 0-30 mph. Governor pressure should be 0 psi at 0 mph, and gradually increase approx 1 psi for every 1 mph.

Current Version 1.0

Written by John Armstrong Jr.

01/20/2019

When you have the pan off you may want to install a drain plug in it.

Parts needed:  

1 M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug

1 M12 x 1.25 nut

1 12mm ID plastic washer

Paint (your choice type and color)

Tools needed:

Hammer

Center punch

Drill motor

½” drill bit

Torque wrench 0-75 FT-LB or 0-300 IN-LB 

Socket to fit drain plug

An automotive supply store like NAPA will have the M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug, nut, and plastic washer.  Using a strong (rare earth) magnet on the outside of the pan to hold the nut in place, you can find the area where the drain plug will clear the valve body and a large surface area for flat contact with the sealing washer.   The left front corner of the pan has the most clearance.  Center punch the spot you want to drill.

Drill a 1/2" hole then place the bolt through the hole and thread the nut to it from inside the pan.  This will center the nut over the hole.  Tack weld the nut to the inside of the pan over the hole in three spots.  The three weld spots are done so not to warp the pan and to allow fluid to be able to drain under the nut.   After the pan cools clean the outside of the pan and paint to stop rusting.  Install the drain plug with plastic washer and tighten no more than 20 FT-LB (240 IN-LB).

You may want to have a dedicated 12 quart oil drain container for the ATF.  If you have to make adjustments inside the transmission (e.g., replacing solenoids, adjusting line pressure) you can drain the ATF into the container and reuse the fluid if it is still good.

Left front corner inside of pan

Left front corner outside of pan

There are no warranties implied or expressed

Written by:

J. Daniel Martin

AKA IBMobile

2/29/2020

Torque Converter Lockup Switch with Brake Pedal Release System

What it will do

This system can keep the torque converter locked in 3^ed or 4^th gear.  With a modification to the valve body 2^ed gear can be locked up.  When driving normal freeway speed the torque converter can be locked up with the momentary switch and stays locked up.  The transmission stays in direct drive even when the accelerator pedal is released, there is no freewheeling, RPM level is maintained and torque converter unlock is done with either pushing the momentary switch again or pressing the brake pedal.  

 When going up long grades select 3^ed gear, overdrive locked out, then lockup the torque converter with the momentary switch.   I have found that by doing this I see very little rise in the transmission temperature with a decrease in exhaust temperature of 200^o F.  Unlocking the torque converter is done again by pressing the momentary switch or brake pedal.  The trans mission will up shift from 3^ed to 4^th  but will not down shift from 4^th  to 3^ed with the torque converter locked. 

When go down a long or steep down grade the locked up torque converter will help in slowing but without the added benefit of an exhaust brake.  Another switch^* is incorporated in the system which will lock up the torque converter and stepping on the brake pedal will not disengage the lock up.  

How it works

The system uses three switches, two relays and a light.

The first is the momentary switch.  This switch is used to signal the transistor in the switching relay to either power the coil and close the contacts allowing power to flow between pins 15 and 87 or stop the power to the coil and open the contacts. 

The brake light switch is three switches in one: brake lights, cruise control and anti-lock brake system.  The anti-lock brake system grounds through this switch, white/pink wire, and is closed circuit until the brake pedal is depressed making it perfect for grounding terminal 85 of the switching relay.  When the transistor loses its ground it turns off the power to the coil and the contacts between pins 15 and 87 open stopping current flow to the grounding relay.   

The 3ed switch^* can either be floor mounted or dash mounted.  This switch is used to energize the grounding relay and light. This keeps the torque converter locked when using the brakes.  I use a floor mounted head light dimmer switch to turn it on and off.

The switching relay is used to control the power to the grounding relay coil with the use of the momentary and brake light switch.  This relay is used in 1981-1988 Volvo models 240 and 740 that had 5 speed manual transmissions with the overdrive 5^th gear is a Laycock overdrive unit and provided power to the hydraulic solenoid.

The grounding relay is used to open and close the circuit that grounds the torque convertor solenoid via the orange/black wire at PCM connector B11.  Since this relay is used as only a grounding switch its power rating can be minimal. 

There is a light add to the system that is on anytime there is power supplied to the grounding relay and the torque converter is locked up.  I used a green LED light so that the color isn’t annoying and power usage is low.

   Parts needed

1 overdrive relay for a Volvo manual 4 speed w/od (M46)   

    IPD.com  part# 102250

1 Bosch type/mini ISO relay terminal 87 normally open (NO)

1 12V LED light, Linrose Superbright LED

    Frys.com  part# B2191L5

1 push button momentary switch, Phillmor Push Button green

     Frys.com   part# 30-12634

     E-Bay

1 headlight dimmer switch

    O’Rielly.com  part # DS109

1   ½ watt 33ohm resistor  NTE HW033

      Frys.com  part# 999026

1 fuse holder with 1-2 amp fuse

6 Scotch Lock connectors

2 #8 X 1½” self-taping sheet metal screws 

Solder

Heat shrink tubing

1 central lock motor harness from a 1981-1993 Volvo model 240.  The wire harness is found behind the center of dash.

1 overdrive relay harness from a 1982-1993 Volvo model 240 with either manual or automatic transmission.  The wire harness is found above left front kick panel for manual trans or behind right center of dash for automatic trans.

1 shift lever from a 1998-2002 Dodge Ram 1500, 2500, 3500, Dakota or Durango.

If you’re making the wire harness

11 solderless insulated female spade connectors .25” sized for wire gauge

3-4 solderless ring terminals sized for wire gauge and grounding screws.

18-20 AGW  stranded  (16 AGW will work if you can’t find smaller) in different colors. Try Home Depot or Lowes electrical department.

Putting it all together

Study the wiring diagram and have all of the parts in hand before starting the installation.  Most of the wire length is from 6” to 2’.  The wires for the light and the floor switch will be 4-5’ depending on where you put them.  The wire from the grounding relay to the PCM will be about 8’.  The power lead with fuse can be attached to any wire that is hot when the key is turned to the “on” position.  The power draw should be between 1 and 2 amps; with the system having its own fuse, there should be no problems.  Install the ½ watt 33 ohm resister between pin #87 of the grounding relay and ground by cutting the wire and soldering the resistor in place.  

 I used the wire harnesses and relays from old Volvos that were in a wrecking yard. I modified the wire harness and added extra wire for the longer runs.  An extra shift lever can be obtained at the wrecking yard for a few dollars also. 

Installing the momentary switch: refer to article written by Me78569

DIY- Lockup Switch install into Gear Selector Arm. 

This is a great how-to article on installing a momentary switch in the gear selector.  If putting the switch in the gear selector arm is a bit difficult then try installing it on the steering column cove or some were on the dash board bezel that’s easily reached.

You will need to remove the panel below the steering column, the dash bezel and the head light switch for the relay installation and wire routing.  The left A post cover will need to be removed if the light is going to be installed there.  Take your time and identify what wires are going where, think two or three times before cutting any wire.  You should not have to cut any of the truck factory wires.  The only wires that need to be cut are the ones you are adding.  

Find where you want to put the relays and LED light.  I put my relays behind the bottom panel under the steering column and worked out from there.  I have my LED light mounted next to my transmission temperature gauge.  It’s at eye level and I just have to glance at it to see if the torque converter is locked or not.  The light on JAG1’s truck was installed in the dashboard bezel between the headlights switch and instrument cluster.  You will need to drill a hole through the plastic then slide the light housing into the hole and secure it with the supplied clip.  Once the light is secured the wires can be connected and the bezel refitted.

The 3^ed switch^* for energizing the grounding relay is mounted on the floor left and forward of the brake pedal in about the same spot the headlight dimmer switch was located back-in-the-day.  I mounted this by putting the switch on top of the carpet and drilling through the floor pan with the self-taping sheet metal screws.  

A toggle or push button on/off switch could be used and installed on the dash bezel if the floor mounted switch is not to your liking.

      ^* Caution:  coming to a full stop with the torque converter locked will stall the engine and could cause damage to the flex plate, input shaft or other driveline parts.

Prepared by:  J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance

AKA: IBMobile

11/12/2017

This DIY is not for how to connect the lockup switch, You can see how to do that by clicking here. 

Sorry for the blurry pictures.

 You can use any switch you like, so long as it fits.  The switch I used was 1 Black Momentary Off on Push Button Horn Switch | eBay
Your switch should be no deeper than ~1/2"  

This will require taking the truck out of park to adjust the shifter, so ENSURE YOU APPLY THE EBRAKE AND CHALK THE WHEELS BEFORE YOU START.

First thing to do is remove the gear select arm. To do so, remove the Dash Bezel, and drivers kick panel.  The kick Panel is held on using 2 phillips head screws on the bottom of the panel and pinned into the top.  Unscrew the phillips heads and pull the kick panel directly towards the seat.  It should "pop" off without much issue.  the dash bezel is just press fitted, I think ( my bezel has been gone so long I don't honestly remember.

Once the Kick panel is removed you need to disconnect the OD wires from the steering column.  Thankfully dodge put a connection right there to do so 
It should be attached to the bottom of the column itself.  Disconnect the switch and let it hang.  

Next you will need to use a t-20 torx driver to remove the bots under the steering shaft

Once the bolts are removed, set them aside and carefully pry the plastic panel that covers the shift selector.  The steering wheel needs to be at the lowest position so adjust it down.  The plastic cover tucks under the upper steering column cover.  There is an upper and a lower section held together using the above torx screws, and they also clip into each other.  Pry carefully to get them to "pop" apart.

Once the upper and lower covers have been popped apart, put the lower half aside, then check to ensure your ebrake is on and the tires are chalked.  After that above is you need to move the gear selector from park to 1st.  this will give you enough room to pull the top cover off.  It will have to be wiggled out.

Once the top cover is removed put the truck back into park.

this should expose the base of the Gear select arm.  It is held in using a single pin that needs to be tapped out from the bottom using a hammer and a punch.  I didn't take a picture of this for some unknown reason, but it is pretty self explanatory.  The Arm will stay put with the pin removed.  Carefully pull the gear selector out of the holder.  it will come out with the OD wires and connector.

This picture shows the arm with the wires for the lockup already in it.
Notice the hole in the bottom of the arm, the OD wires go into it.

Bring the arm inside.  

Next pull the OD button out.  to do so pop the od button cover off using a small flat head.  There is a divot where you should pry from. The cover will come off and expose the OD button.  

The OD button is held in via the cover so you can use a pair of pliers to pull it out.  

Next is the pin holder for the OD wire connection.  Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull that out carefully.

Note the position of the orientation pin. it should point up.  The holder will only go in one way with the pin point towards the OD button.

Once the piece is out carefully pull the connection pins out of the black holder.  

Notice the arm is hollow allowing for a switch to be installed.  

Here is a picture of the OD button holder.   that I used a dremel to cut out to allow for the switch to sit in.  You will have to cut this to your needs depending on the switch you go with.  Ensure that you don't cut more than 1/3 of the plastic out.  If you do the holder will not work.  I ended up cutting out the entire area between the connector holes.

You will need 2 fairly small wires to feed through.  I used wires from a older USB cable I had laying around.  I was able to feed the extra wires through by pulling the OD wires completely out of the arm, then feeding my small wires through, and then re-feeding the OD wires through.  The OD wires are pretty rigid so they will feed through without much issue.

Next you will need to drill a hole in the handle of the arm in the position that you like, and to the size you need to fit the switch.  I used a 1/2" hole.  Feed the wires through the hole you drilled and connect them to your switch in a manner that reduces the needed space behind the switch using soldier, ensure to use heat shrink wrap to keep the terminals on the button from making contact with each other.

using a Multimeter with a continuity function test the Lockup wires coming out of the bottom of the arm to ensure that is is open until you press the button.  Pressing the lockup button should complete the circuit.

Carefully pull your wires back through the arm to keep any spare wires from taking up space in the arm.  install the button in the arm handle, and use some sort of glue, such as JB weld to hold it in place.  due to spare issues, it is not easy to use a nut on the back of the switch.

Insert the OD wires into the OD button holder, doesn't matter which goes where, and reinstall the holder into the arm.  Notice the area that is cut out of my holder in the image to allow space for the button.  Keep in mind that the Lockup switch is simply completing a ground circuit, so if the wires touch when installed the lockup will always be triggered.

Reinstall the OD button into the end of the arm and check to issues.  If all is well then reinstall the cover over the OD button.

using a Multimeter with a continuity function test the OD button to ensure that is is open until you press the button.  The OD button is a Momentary switch so it should only complete the circuit when pressed and then open again once the button is released.

Take the arm back out to the truck and reinstall it.  The only thing to watch out for is the shift arm is held into the holder using a pin and a spring to gate the shifter to prevent you from going from Drive to Reverse without pulling the arm backwards then up/down.  You will need to use a flat head screw driver to push the spring back while installing the arm into the holder.  Reinsert the pin that holds the gear selector arm.  tap it flushing a hammer.

Reconnect the OD button wires under the dash.

Reinstall the cover for the gear selector base, and pop the lower and upper section back together.  install the torx screws.  
        Remember that the cover tucks under the cover above it.

Attach one lead of the lockup switch to the wire that is run from the orange and black wire on the passenger side of the motor,  Keep in mind this wire should NEVER touch a ground under the dash on it's own.  Use heat shrink to protect it from accidental grounding.

Attach the other lead of the Lockup switch to a ground location under the kick panel.

Reinstall the kick panel and take her for a test drive.  If you used a Momentary switch verify that lockup only happens when you are holding the button.  Lockup should disengage as soon as you release the button.

When after the bearing was replaced, assemblage of all the components is exactly backwards from the removal. start with inserting the front shaft into the transfer case,bolting the bearing carrier to the drop down hangar, bolt the hangar to the crossmember with the 4 bolts, slide on the rear portion of the shaft, crimp on the new strap on the boot, align the rear ujoint to the axle input yoke, ensure the cups are set into the yoke properly (you will see the clean pressure points on the cups, match these to the yoke). Then put a touch of loktite on the 4 small bolts, torque them per MFG specs (will update with torqe specs). Test drive to ensure no weird vibrations or issues.

You are looking for PN: 04773014

Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Drive-Center-Support-Bearing/dp/B00MJ2MMGW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458702477&sr=8-1&keywords=04773014.

Ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.X04773014..TRS5&_nkw=04773014.&_sacat=0

DONE!

First thing first remove all you old system plumbing and all in piece...

Mopar's Notes: This is a requirement and can't be skipped. You must remove the entire hydraulic system.

There is two spots that have clips holding the tubing. One is under the cowling and the other is just above the transmission on a seam in the body metal. It will take a little working it but you can feed the whole system up through the top...

Now take the cotter pins out and then take a small rod and punch out the roll pins holding the tubing to both the master and slave cylinders. Remove the tubing from both units.

Now take the new slave cylinder and hold it upright with the plumbing hole upwards and fill the slave cylinder till full. Insert the new seal and install the tubing to the slave cylinder with it roll pin. Don't forget the cotter pin too. Now install the master cylinder with its roll pin and cotter pin to the plumbing and hook up the reservoir. This is the important part must should you hang the system so the plumbing is up and down.

Fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Here is the bleeding part. The slave cylinder has two band holding the pin inward. Release the tabs by twisting them out of the slots. Now slowly release and push the pin. Allow it to make full cycles inward and outwards. Watch the fluid level for it to rise and fall on every cycle also watch for air bubbles. Once the air bubbles quit rising into the reservoir you done bleeding. Push the pin in again Fill the reservoir one last time and close the lid.

Mopar's Notes: Make sure to keep the reservoir up-right at all time and don't push on the master cylinder or clutch pedal during the install.

Now carefully feed the slave cylinder back down to the bell housing using the original routing of the tubing. Remember to install the tubing clips back under the cowling and down by the transmission. Install the slave cylinder first. Leave the tabs hooked on the slave cylinder during install. Now install the master cylinder you'll have to get a second person or a object to hold the master cylinder in place so you can get the nuts on the studs. Don't forget the foam and the washer that goes on the pedal shaft.

Now on first application of the clutch pedal the tab on the slave cylinder will tear automatically.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F24EkNLuG9w

For those who are not familiar with a front axle CAD unit, the following description may help.

OEM vehicle - manually shifted transfer case (with CAD) - Theory of Operation

• The CAD front axle has three axle shafts - a driver side axle shaft, a passenger side axle shaft, and a short center axle shaft. The passenger side axle shaft and the center axle shaft can be connected or disconnected by the CAD unit. The center axle shaft is called the intermediate axle shaft in the photo below. The CAD unit is a vacuum motor that controls a splined sliding collar to lock the right axle shaft to the center axle shaft. There is a switch at the end of the CAD unit that allows illumination of the 4WD indicator lamp in the dash.

• 2WD Selected - front driveshaft does not rotate and CAD is disconnected. This feature minimizes front axle friction at highway speeds.

• 4WD HI Select on-the-fly - As the transfer case shifter is being pulled into the 4-HI position, a synchronizer in the transfer case brings the front driveshaft up to speed. As the shift is completed, a vacuum valve inside the transfer case actuates the front axle CAD unit and locks the passenger side axle shaft directly to the center axle shaft. 4WD indicator lamp is illuminated.

• 4WD LO Select - Vehicle must be stopped. Select 4WD LO. 4WD indicator lamp is illuminated.

Something worthy of noting - when 2WD is selected, the front drive shaft stops rotating, the left and right axle shafts are still rotating (driven by the wheels), and the center axle shaft is still rotating, BUT in the opposite direction (because of the differential). This is the reason that when 4WD Hi is selected, the synchronizer in the transfer case brings the front driveshaft up to speed first. When the front driveshaft is brought up to speed first, then all three front axle shafts are rotating at the same speed and in the same direction. Now the CAD unit can connect the passenger side axle shaft to the center axle shaft.

2WD-LO Conversion (parts needed)

• Toggle switch - two position maintained switch with physical lockout

• Humphrey 4 way / 2 position, 1/8" NPT, spring offset, vacuum solenoid valve Model 410/12 VDC

• Appropriate length of vacuum tubing and 16 gauge automotive wire and wire connectors.

This conversion separates the operation of the transfer case manual shifter and the CAD vacuum controlled shifter. The external vacuum ports of the vacuum valve (inside the transfer case) will be disconnected and plugged. A new vacuum solenoid valve for the CAD unit operation will be installed in a location of choice. A fused switch will be installed to operate the new CAD vacuum solenoid valve. A vacuum supply line will be routed to the CAD vacuum solenoid valve. Two vacuum lines will be installed to connect the new CAD vacuum solenoid valve to the CAD unit.

Instructions for operating the new conversion are as follows:

2WD High - The transfer case selector must be in 2WD and the CAD switch must be turned off and locked out.

4WD High - Vehicle must be stopped. The CAD switch must be turned on. The 4WD indicator lamp will illuminate (truck may have to be moved slightly to engage 4WD lamp). From this point forward the transfer case can be shifted from 2WD to 4WD or 4WD to 2WD on-the-fly.

2WD Low - Vehicle must be stopped. Shift transfer case into Low Range. Leave the CAD switch turned off and locked out. The 4WD lamp will not illuminate.

4WD Low - Vehicle must be stopped. Shift transfer case into Low Range. Turn on CAD switch. The 4WD lamp will illuminate (truck may have to be moved slightly to engage 4WD lamp).

Tips

The 2WD Low Range can be very useful, especially for backing trailers in tight spaces, whether loaded or not. This is true for manual and automatic transmissions. You can basically idle the rig while backing very slowly in tight turns without the wheel hop associated with 4WD.

Also, when traveling off-road on very steep and twisty terrain with varying traction conditions in low range, you can shift from 2WD to 4WD or 4WD to 2WD on-the-fly. Just leave the transfer case in 4WD and operate the CAD switch - "Off" for 2WD, "On" for 4WD. Always unload the engine (ease up on the throttle) when making the changes to allow the CAD unit to slide the shift collar easily.

The CAD switch has a physical lockout to reduce the chance of accidental operation. When the switch not going to be used, always engage the lockout with the switch in the "Off" position.

Enjoy the conversion!

Here is the Parts Blow-out for the NP241DHD

You can find any of the part numbers for the transfer case using the part number lookup tool.  The link below will take you to the transfer case section for a 2nd gen Dodge Ram Truck.  

https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2000Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=546

Ensure you get a good quality Rebuild kit.  I used BK241C, you can find that on ebay for ~$125

EBAY LINK

Dissemble

Pull from the truck and ensure you drain the fluid.

You will need,

-Snap ring pylers

- 13mm 

- 15mm

- 17mm

- Hammer

- Adjustable channel locks

- flat head

- dental pick ( not needed but handy)

- RTV

- Brake Cleaner

- Paper towels

- Blind Hole Bearing Puller.

Remove the 4 bolts that hold the tail shaft snout on.  The snout will not be able to be removed until you open the snap ring that holds the rear main bearing in place.  The rear main bearing is what holds the position of the main shaft so be sure to inspect the bearing and snap ring for damage.

This image shows you the rear snout with the rear seal removed.  Item 1. in the image above.

Remove the rubber cover that covers the snap ring for the rear main bearing.

Use snap ring pylers to remove the snap ring from the groove on the rear main shaft bearing.  This will take some wiggling and a 2nd pair of hands helps.  Open the snap ring, then when it is fully expanded wiggle the snout cover off of the rear main bearing.

Once the snout is removed you can see the rear main bearing, it is held in place by 2 snap rings.  Remove the rear snap ring, pointed out by the arrow, then remove the bearing.  Next remove the snap ring that is behind the bearing.  You should replace both of these rings as they often get damaged.  PN #  04883597AA they are $3.50 a piece from Dodge and typically not included in the rebuild kit.

Next remove the bolts that hold the case together,  There are some alignment dowels so you will have to wiggle the case apart, take your time.

The oil pump will come out with the case, clean it with brake cleaner and set aside.

Next you will see the roller bearing in the cover.  you may need a Blind Hole Bearing Puller.  I was able to remove mine without one by carefully denting in the edge of the bearing to create space enough to pull it out.   I don't recommend doing that but it worked for me.  Find the Right bearing and reinsert it.  I used a hammer and 2 x 4 cut to size to get it installed.  Take you time and ensure you get it installed flush and not cockeyed.  Once that is done, set the cover aside for reassembly.

Here is the inside of the case with the oil pump on the main shaft.  With the oil pump removed you will notice the chain is held in place by a snap ring holding the sprocket in place.

sprocket and snap ring on the 4wd side.  remove the snap ring.

Once that snap ring is removed you can wiggle the whole chain and sprocket off as a unit.  Clean and set aside.  Notice how the large fork and dowel slides out with the chain.

Replace the plastic fork guides with new ones from the kit. Items 49 & 50 from the blow out.

Here you can see the rooster comb inside the case that sets the position of the case.  Notice the spring in my case was wrapped up in the comb causing my issues.  You can typically remove the spring by undoing the brass plug on the outside of the transfercase.  pay attention to the order you remove it in as you need to put it back in correctly. 

Now you should see the range select fork.  Wiggle the fork out of position, use the rooster comb position to aid in giving you remove to remove the fork. 

In order to remove the planetary gears you must remove the input shaft cover and snap ring which holds the main input bearing in place.

NP241dhd input cover, remove the 4 bolts that hold it on.  Clean, remove and replace the shaft seal, item 42 from above blow out, and set aside.  

Once the cover is removed you will see the main input bearing and the snap ring that holds the planetary gears in place.  Remove the inner snap ring, then remove the planetary gears.

Once the Planetary gear is removed, remove the outer snap ring and use a hammer to tap out the input bearing.  Reinstall the bearing with the new one from the kit with some lube to ensure it goes in straight.  Once the bearing is in place, reinstall the snap ring that sets its position.

You should now have an empty case, you can see the input bearing in the case reinstalled.  Remove the rooster comb and replace the orings on the shift select shaft with new ones from the kit, items 66 and 67 from the parts blow out.

Take apart the planetary gear set by removing the snap ring on the back holding the 4wd collar in place.  There is a snap ring that holds the collar and shims in place.

Remove the steel cover, item 78, then the plastic shim, item 37, then the collar then at the bottom you will see another plastic shim.  

Once the inside collar is removed you will see another needle bearing at the bottom.  I used a deep well socket to knock it out of place.  You will have to set the collar, item 38, gear side down and insert the socket into the bottom and tap out the needle bearing. 

Red is the needle bearing

Here is the needle bearing removed.

Reinstall the new needle bearing, with lube and ensure it is straight.

Reassembly the planetary gear with the new shims in reverse order.  plastic shim ->input collar -> plastic shim->steel plate -> snap ring, 

Reinstall the planetary back into the case and put the inner snap ring back on the input shaft.  The planetary will be held in place by that snap ring.

Clean the surface of the input shaft mating face and apply RTV, reinstall the cover with the new seal onto the shaft and re tighten the bolts that hold the cover in place.

Reinstall the range select shift fork, ensure you replace the plastic guides with new ones.

Now Move over to the 4wd output side.

Remove the output flange and the flange seal

Next pull the shaft out from inside the case and replace the 4wd output bearing and seal with new ones from the kit.

Reinstall the 4wd output shaft, and flange seal and bolt on the flange to the correct torque of 130 - 200 ft/lb

Reinstall the chain and sprocket a long with the 4wd engage fork

reinstall the snap ring that holds the sprocket on to the 4wd output shaft.

Install the oil pump and pickup on the shaft and in the case cover and get ready to put the case back together.   Button the case back together, ensure the mating surfaces are clean and apply the directed amount of RTV to one face of the case.  Ensure the Shift select guide rod slides into the hole in the case.  Ensure you have installed the spring on the guide rod before putting it back together.  Ensure the oil pickup tube is seated into the pump and the pump is sitting on the outside race of the case.

Install the new output snout seal.

Reinstall the rear main shaft bearing and snap rings, one before and after the bearing.

Reinstall the snout and ensure the snap ring is in the output bearing groove

There you go you should have the NP241dhd rebuilt. 

Here is a assembled part diagram

All torque specs are in the FSM for the dodge ram.  you can find the FSM files i the download section of the site.

https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/8-factory-service-manuals/

Operation

Two different control modules are used: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and the Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM controls the fuel system. The PCM does not control the fuel system. The PCM’s main function is to control: the vehicle charging system, speed control system, transmission, air conditioning system and certain bussed messages. The PCM can adapt its programming to meet changing operating conditions. The PCM receives input signals from various switches and sensors. Based on these inputs, the PCM regulates various engine and vehicle operations through different system components. These components are referred to as PCM Outputs. The sensors and switches that provide inputs to the PCM are considere PCM Input

Inputs

• A/C request (if equipped with factory A/C)

• A/C select (if equipped with factory A/C)

• Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) output from ECM

• Auto shutdown (ASD) relay sense

• Battery temperature sensor

• Battery voltage

• Brake switch

• CCD bus (+) circuits

• CCD bus (-) circuits

• Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) output from ECM

• Data link connection for DRB scan tool

• Fuel level sensor

• Generator (battery voltage) output

• Ignition sense

• Output shaft speed sensor

• Overdrive/override switch

• Park/neutral switch (auto. trans. only)

• Power ground

• Sensor return

• Signal ground

• Speed control resume switch

• Speed control set switch

• Speed control on/off switch

• Transmission governor pressure sensor

• Transmission temperature sensor

• Vehicle speed inputs from ABS or RWAL system

Outputs

After inputs are received by the PCM, certain sensors, switches and components are controlled or regulated by the PCM. These are considered PCM Outputs. These outputs are for:

• A/C clutch relay and A/C clutch

• Auto shutdown (ASD) relay

• CCD bus (+/-) circuits for: speedometer, voltmeter, fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge/lamp, engine temp. gauge and

• speed control warn. lamp

• Data link connection for DRB scan tool

• Five volt sensor supply

• Generator field driver (-)

• Generator field driver (+)

• Generator lamp (if equipped)

• Malfunction indicator lamp (Check engine lamp)

• Overdrive warning lamp (if equipped)

• Speed control vacuum solenoid

• Speed control vent solenoid

• Tachometer (if equipped)

• Transmission convertor clutch circuit

• Transmission 3–4 shift solenoid

• Transmission relay

• Transmission temperature lamp (if equipped)

• Transmission variable force solenoid (governor sol.)

Wiring Diagrams

Before Testing - IMPORTANT PLEASE DO NOT SKIP!

Before doing any testing of the alternator for AC noise, make sure to remove any and all wiring modifications. Return the electrical system back to stock. Make sure there is no extra grounds, relocation of ground wires or noise filters installed before testing the alternator. It has been brought to my attention that wiring mods can and will provide false passing grades for the alternator. The entire electrical system should be left stock and unmodified so you (the owner) are alerted sooner to impending alternator failure. Stock system will show AC noise issues much sooner than a modified system which will mask the issue and then typically cause damage to ECM, PCM or VP44 sooner.

2 Methods of Testing your Alternator for AC Noise

1. Remove the 140 amp alternator fuse in the PDC. Then unplug the field lead of the rear of the alternator. DO NOT remove the heavy charge lead. This was handled by removing the alternator fuse. Now go for test drive and see if the torque converter lockup issues occur. If no torque converter lockup issues then the alternator is at fault for AC noise issues. I highly suggest you verify by having the alternator bench tested and or do test #2 below. 

2. Remove the turbo intake tube. Now using a high-quality digital volt meter like Fluke or Extech. The DVM should have an AC scale capable of reading down to millivolts AC. If not you'll see measured AC volts in the range of 29 to 31 volts which is erred.

AC Noise Voltage levels

• Normal - 0.01 to 0.03 AC Volts 
• Marginal - 0.05 to 0.09 AC Volts (Some folks have reported random or odd behavior occurring at this low of voltage)
• Fail - 0.1 AC Volts and above. 

NOTE: W-T ground wire mod will make the AC noise much lower typical reading around 10mV AC to 20mV AC is Normal past about 40mV is a fail. Factory wiring is going to remain higher. Highly suggested doing the W-T ground wire mod. 

Here is another video explaining the AC noise even better...

Failed diode waveforms will create some unusual patterns which will create the torque converter issues you guys are having. Here is a normal alternator output with good diodes.

Why am I going out and trying to fix this problem? Because the AC noise created by the alternator is being fed to all systems ECM, PCM, ABS, etc. So there is a chance that some of the random failures of ECM's and VP44 are caused by a failed alternator.

Replacement Alternators

I've been asked about what kind of alternator should be used. I've seen several folks buy brand new alternators and get several in a row that failed out of the box. I've seen personally several remanufactured alternators failed out of the box. Then some folks think that dealer alternator is going to do better but you not guarantee a quality alternator either. So, what is an owner to do? The best thing I can suggest is to buy what you can afford but before you leave the store have them bench test your new alternator for a passing grade. Some folks have now gone to upgrade alternators like Nations Alternators which are all brand new and upgrade to high amperage output. Again, it about what you can afford and brand new is not a guarantee that it's good alternator.  

Replacement Diodes

If the diodes are to blame you can rebuild your 136 amp OEM alternator with this diode kit.

Another Member Results

As posted from craneop (AKA: Terry Quirk)

OK! Problem solved! Yippee!!!

Took the recently purchased Alternator back to O'Reilly's where I got it from, had them test it on their tester. They told me they run the test 3 times and if they get a PASS all three times, its a good alternator. When I asked about measuring AC Voltage, they looked dumbfounded, so I asked them if I could hook my multimeter up to the alternator while they tested? They agreed! So now this alternator is reading .35 Volts AC as the first test PASS'S, they run the second test and we get a FAIL, the guy gives me a funny look, checks his wires and runs the third test and we get another FAIL. So the guy now tells me guess we have a bad alternator but they don't have another one on the shelf and I will need to wait till tomorrow to bring one in from the other store. I say I'm OK with that, but that I've learned my lesson and we are going to have to test the next alternator as well before I leave the store with it. The next morning (yesterday) they call me and let me know the alternator is in and I can come down and pick it up. We do the test like before, and this time we get a PASS, PASS, PASS, however, my multimeter is reading 0.3 Volts AC, and then I also notice that on their machine there is a box at the top that says Diodes and across from that box on the screen says N/A. So I ask the guy about it and he says their machine has no way of testing the diodes, it only tests for the overall condition of the alternator. Unhappy with what I'm hearing and looking at, I request my money back which they had no problem with at all, however the core I earlier took in was no longer in the store so the gave me cash in the amount of $215.00 (their core charge on that alternator $36.00 along with the full purchase price of $179.00.)

By this time I have no core, only to find out all the other auto parts stores around town are charging a $70 - $80 core charge for this alternator, and a lot of the places have no tester. Starting to get a bit frustrated, I decided to quit messing around and go to the most reliable place in town I know of, a small family owned auto electric and mechanical shop (Auto Electric, Anchorage, Alaska). I was hoping that maybe they had heard of this issue I am having with the TCL and get fixed up with a good alternator. They rebuild all kinds of auto electrical parts right there in house as well a run a full-service auto mechanic shop. Well,,,,I explained my problem to them and showed them a printed copy of the troubleshooting procedure I got from the Mopa1973Man website, to which they said...never heard of this before. However, these guys are real pro's and they didn't blow me off. They took my concerns seriously, brought two techs in out of the shop to talk with me about this, as I explained to them the 0.1 Volt AC upper limit thing. They genuinely got concerned and were pulling down alternators, checking them on the bench and checking outputs at vehicles in the shop. In all, I was in there for about two hours while they tested and discussed and in the end, the shop found me a NEW alternator and gave me a heck of a deal @ $239.00 w/no core charge. The NEW alternator was putting out 0.22 Volts AC on their alternator bench vise, and that concerned me cause I was looking for something under 0.1 VAC. However in further discussion, the techs I was working with concluded, (and BTW they turned out to be right),that the test machine itself was putting off AC Noise and that the Fluke Meter was picking up that AC Noise during the test, and that since the Voltage Regulator is on either the PCM or ECM, the only way to accurately read out the AC output on this alternator was to put it on the vehicle and measure it at that time. So,,,I took the alternator home, hooked it all up, and WALLA... measured at the batteries -0.01 Volts AC @idle, and 0.00 Volts AC @2000 RPM. Feeling pretty good at this point I take it for a test drive. Runs and shifts perfectly. NO MORE PROBLEMS!!!

Cory, I believe he's the manager or maybe owner, at Auto Electric said though he's heard and dealt with a lot of Dodge Cummins issues like this before, had never heard of this shifting problem being linked to + 0.10 VAC output on the alternator. He asked me to check back in with him to let him know how all this worked out. I will do that on Monday, as well as express my thanks for all the personal attention, efforts and concerns Auto Electric gave to me to address my problem.

In the meantime, my utmost gratitude to Mopar1973Man for sharing your knowledge and wisdom on this issue. I had tried all the band-aid tricks only to have them each work for anywhere to a couple hours to a couple days or so and then reappear. I believe what was happening was that as I fixed a ground or foiled a wire, it masked the problem just long enough for the diodes on the alternator to get a little worse and then BOOM, the problem is back!

Very good information Mopar1973Man!!!

Happy Holidays!!!

 Update: November 19, 2014

Here we go with another blown alternator confirming without a doubt of the diodes being a cause.

Before any repair...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4988-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues/page-10#entry100230

After the alternator is rebuilt...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4988-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues/page-10#entry100294

The cause...

This led me to my idea, I crawled under the truck today and pulled off the connector to the neutral/reverse switch and found out which pin is for the neutral safety switch (its the top 2 pins). I then shorted the 2 wires together with a paperclip and went for a test drive. The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before. I went into an abandoned dirt parking lot, put it in 4x4, and began to mash the brake and accelerator. The truck very quickly got to about 2500 rpm and about 30-35 lbs of boost. At this moment i knew it had worked. I built boost again and launched the truck, I had full fuel off the line with no bucking whatsoever, next I did a burnout with the same result. The only problem i ended up having is after about 20-30 minutes the truck threw a p1899 code for the switch being shorted which defaulted the computer and turned TM back on. However if you put it on a toggle switch you would be able to turn off TM at any time, and shut it back off before the computer knows while retaining all your gauges vs other options out on the market. Also if the neutral switch is "On" you will not be able to use cruise control so a switch would be the best option. 

I still have some more testing to do but this fix has worked every time I have tried it so far. This was my experience with my own experiment on my truck, if you would like to attempt this you do so at your own risk. It fuels fast and it fuels hard. If you have any questions feel free to ask  

Wiring at the PCM

Tapping the BK/WT wire at  pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set.  What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line.  This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code