Hang in there as i am working on building this Article.
Firstly, have all your parts cleaned and prepped, identified and ready to fully assemble.
Seals, front and rear mains. Drive your seals in with the tools provided in the cummins kits. the rear is easier and the open end goes towards front. The front main is a PITA but once you get it driven as far as the tool will let you it will hold. Leave the install sleaves in them, if you have to remove them pull them out and to replace them just kinda fold them onto itself then put it inside the seal to install.
Driving the seal in from the rear of the seal housing. Hammer it down in small increments
Drive the seal in until the tool bottoms out evenly along the rim.
how it will look on the backside
next is piston assembly. I didnt get pics of the assembly but its easy.
Assemble each piston fully one at a time with rod, wrist pins/c-clips, rings.
the rings go in order of installation (bottom to top of piston)
1. oil ring (3 piece) lower flat ring then oil waffle ring then upper flat ring (stagger gap 120 deg)
2. scraper ring FOLLOW PRODUCT ORIENTATION there will be a marking or dot showing UP. Use ring installer and open ring enough to place into groove without scraping piston.
3, compression ring (see info above)
Also prep the crank and ensure it is PERFECTLY clean ZERO debris on journals.
Next is block prep.
Install 6 oil cooler jets with a punch gently tapped into place to hold them. ensure they are free of debris.
Then with a air hose blow the seats of the upper main bearings clean and the back of the upper main bearing then place down immediately to ensure no dust gets between the surfaces. Repeat for all mains and ensure proper orientation. Thrust bearing goes on #6 main journal seat.
Inspect to make sure ALL jets are in place and all bearings are clean with a spray of air.
liberal use of assembly lube of your choice is to be placed on bearing faces and smeared around to get it on the whole bearing.
Setting the crank
Blow out all the passages of the oil galleys in the crank and blow the crank journals clean.
With TWO people GENTLY lay the crank into the mains EVENLY and apply more lube on the journals. (i used cat 5 cable as a harness to hold the crank on a journal as i lowered it in, worked well)
Spin the crank just enough to ensure proper seating into the bearings and visually inspect that is is seated in all bearings.
Bearing cap install
with each clean cap, blow clean to ensure no dust is present, also on back of lower main bearing, mate the two together. Lube with assembly lube and place on block in proper orientation.
Put the same cap on where it came off of. Using machine oil on the threads and hand thread them in. (torque later) Repeat for all bearing main caps.
once all caps/bearings are placed, torque to spec in the pattern required. (will get specs and pattern later)
Piston install/rod cap install
prelube each bore with machine oil to ensure no scraping and ease of installment
two people make this work better. with assembled piston place the ring compressor over all rings just past the oil rings and gently insert into bore with proper orientation until the ring compressor sits against the deck. then with a hammer, place the handle on the center of the crown and hold pressure against the piston while tapping it with your hand to push it into the bore until the ring compressor comes off STOP HERE. place a rod bearing on the rod then lube well and have your friend hold the end of the rod and guide it onto the crank as you push the piston in with the hammer handle in small increments until it seats.
Rod cap install
place lower rod bearing onto cap and lube well then place onto crank in proper orientation and hand tighten. Repeat piston install and rod cap install for each piston. Then torque to 74ft/lb in 3 steps (will get info later)
front gear housing install
i placed gasket shellac on the housing surface then place the gasket on then coated with shellac and mated to the block. All bolts are torqued 18ft/lb and blue loctight now is a good time to inspect the killer dowel pin issue. My cover didnt need it.
cam install/thrust plate install
lube cam very well and without scoring the cam bearing insert cam into block and mate the cam to the crank via the markings you see above. crank has one dot cam has two dots for this mate.
thrust plate install
with cam installed and aligned, slide thrust plate in behind cam (pull cam out slightly) then place both bolts in with blue loctight and torque to 18ft/lb
oil pump install
place oil pump onto block face and hand tighten all 4 bolts with blue loctight then in criss cross pattern torque to 18ft/lb
injection pump gear install as well with timing mark on the cam as seen below.
gear housing cover install
with shellac on the gasket surface place gasket on cover then coat with more shellac. place the cover over the front main of the crank and align then push the install sleeve onto the crank, then push the cover onto the crank. the sleeve will fall off, start bolting to 18ft/lb and blue loctight.
rear main seal install
shellac the surface of the housing then place gasket and shellac more, align and push install sleeve onto crank, then push the cover over the crank and the sleeve will fall off. torque i think is 18ft/lb
(take block off stand to do this then put back on stand afterwards)
water pump and fan pulley install
blue loctight all bolts to 18ft/lb ensure surfaces are clean for water pump rubber oring (square oring) install fan serpentine pulley onto mount. blue loctight
oil pickup tube
install with shellac on both sides of gasket or not, torque to 18ft/lb and blue locktight
oil pan install
shave rear main gasket with razor blade smooth to the block along with the front housing gasket. shellac the surface of the block then place oil pan gasket and shellac more. place oil pan down and torque all bolts with blue loctight to 18ft/lb
oil cooler and water outlet /ac compressor bracket install
using the proper gaskets for the oil cooler DO NOT SHELLAC, bolt the oil cooler to the block and torque to 18ft/lb and blue loctigt, then bolt the water outlet/compressor bracket to 32ft/lb i think and blue loctight.
pushrod side cover
place rubber gasket with proper orientation (tab should be facing out and pointing forward) then bolt down to 18ft/lb and blue loctight
vacuum pump install
bolt bracket to block and torque then set pump into housing and bolt down tight to housing. install oil feed line and tighten
bracket and oil line
install oil pressure sensor
install cam position sensor
install block oil hole cover thingy. use shellac then tighten
install OEM lift pump bracket (or block off plate) with gasket and shellac, torque 18ft/lb
i coated my headgasket with permatex copper spray then set down on the deck and aligned.inspect to ensure no forign debris is in pistons. (blow out with air before putting down gasket)
laying the head down
again, visually inspect no debris is in the pistons. with two people in one shot gently lay head down and align with guide dowels
bolting the head down/valve train install and adjustment
with machine oil lube the threads and hand thread to stop for all bolts. torque in sequence in 3 steps (will get info later)
then once fully torqued and rechecked, install the pushrods and rocker assemblies. loosen the rocker adjuster screws all out then torque assemblies down (will get ft/lb later) recheck torque. do a valve adjustment when you like.
install MAP sensor (the left one) and intake air temp sensor (right) on the driver side rear of head
install lift brackets, thermostat housing torque 18ft/lb, instake cover with shellac on the gasket and torque to 18ft/lb and blue loctight and paint.
install transmission adapter and flywheel-clutch/torque converter. (will get specs later) use alightnment tool for clutch. make sure to grease up the pilot bearing. torque the pressure plate down in small increments each bolt to 18ft/lb flywheel i think it 92ft/lb and blue loctight
you can install the injection pump now if you wish or in the truck.
install in truck!