Disclaimer

This article is written for offroad use and/or track racing. EGR deletes are illegal for highway use in the US.

EGR Delete

1. The first step you'll have to do is disconnect the battery grounds and drain the coolant from the radiator. You only need to drain about 1/2 the coolant out since you are only working on the top part of the engine. Batteries being disconnected just ensures safety and nothing being shorted out.
2. You want to remove the plastic decorative engine cover. There are four 10mm head bolts holding the cover on. Make sure to pull the engine oil dipstick out before removal.
3. Now on the front of the engine, you want to remove the cross over EGR tube. There are 2 V-band clamps holding the tube. Also, there is one 10mm head bolt tucked up under the tube bolted to the front of the head.
   
   
4. Now unhook the plug on the EGR valve. This requires using a screwdriver and pulling the red tab outwards to unlock the pull then squeeze the tab as usual to unplug.
5. Unbolt the EGR valve from the intake horn. There are 10mm head bolts mounting it to the intake horn.
6. This point you want to clean any old gasket material and excessive carbon up. I used a shop vacuum to pull a vacuum near the port and loosen the carbon up with my finger. As for the gasket, the same was hold the shop vacuum near the port as you scrap the old material off.
   
   
7. While at the intake horn the throttle valve is just below the EGR valve. Make sure to unplug the throttle valve and leave it unplugged. You could install a throttle valve delete as well to improve performance but not required!
8. Now install the block off plate to the intake horn. I used the Sinister EGR delete kit. On the back side of the plate is a groove for the o-ring. Just careful press the o-rings into place with your fingers. The groove is tight enough to hold the o-ring for you.
   
   
   
   
9. Here is where things get a bit more fun. EGR bypass on the passenger side has a set of heat shields. you have to remove them. There are two 8mm head bolts and three 10mm nuts. ew of them are kind of hidden so make sure you find them all.
10. After the heat shield is removed out of the way. Now you can remove the four 10mm bolts holding the exhaust bypass in place. Don't remove at this point leave in place. Just remove the bolts.
11. Now unbolt the stepper motor. It mounted in place with four 10mm head bolts. Leave it in place for right now. Make sure to unplug any electrical on the servo.
12. Now you can remove the bypass valve and the stepper motor together as a unit.
    
    
    
13. Now you have to make a bit of room for the EGR cooler removal. Remove the crankcase vent hose. Also, while your right there remove the two coolant hoses running over the EGR cooler.
14. Now unbolt the two 15mm head bolts mounting the EGR cooler to the manifold. This is a pain in the tail end. The 2 nuts are at the rear of the EGR cooler which are rather difficult to access and see. Take your time. Make sure to fish both nuts before lifting the cooler off. Really would suck to drop a nut into the exhaust manifold and ruin a turbo.
15. Remove the V-band clamp from the exhaust cross over elbow and the EGR cooler.
16. Now you can lift the EGR cooler out. There is a stud that the rear of the cooler mount on. This makes rather difficult and tight quarters lifting the cooler up and attempt to slide out of the mounting bracket.
    
    
     
17. Now the removal of the EGR cooler mounting. There are two 14mm head bolts running from the fender toward the head.They are below the edge of the mounting.
18. Now you can install the block off plates for the exhaust manifold. One plate will have a plug in the center. This one goes to the rear of the manifold. The other block off plate without the port is installed in the front port of the exhaust. You'll be reusing the exhaust gaskets from the old hardware.
    
    
19. Now you can reinstall the crankcase vent hose.
20. Using the new coolant hose from the Sinister EGR Delete Kit now connect the two coolant port that went to the EGR cooler.
    
    
21. Now in the kit, there is a metal bracket provided to attach the transmission dipstick and coolant tube. The bracket is bolted to the head using the old hardware and its location is directly behind the coolant port on the head. Attach your dipstick tube and coolant tube to this bracket.
22. Refill with coolant. Make sure to open the air bleed port on the coolant line. Check for leaks!
23. (Optional) Install the plastic engine cover. You'll find it rather floppy and not worth installing.

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.
Ensure batteries are completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise, the
indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnostic purposes.
1. Disconnect the fuel inlet line to the fuel filter housing. Plug the fuel line from the fuel tank.
NOTE: Failure to plug fuel line will result in fuel leak.
2. Remove fuel transfer pump relay from PDC.
3. Start the engine and idle until the engine stalls (runs out of fuel).
4. Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL)

5. Remove the cylinder head cover carrier gasket. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL}
6. Remove the high pressure fuel line between the cylinder head and fuel rail for the cylinder to be tested. Use tool 9864 to cap this fuel rail on the cylinder being tested.
7. Remove the fuel connector tube nut and fuel connector tube.
8. Remove the exhaust rocker lever.
9. Use Tool 9010 to remove the injector and copper sealing washer.
10. Install the exhaust rocker lever and torque to 36 N·m (27 ft. Ibs.).
11. Cover the remaining rocker levers with clean shop towels to prevent any oil splatter under the hood.
12. Place a rag over the compression test tool fitting. Crank the engine for 2-3 seconds to purge any fuel that may have drained into the cylinder when the injector was removed.
13. Connect the compression test gauge.
14. Crank the engine for 5 seconds and record the pressure reading. Repeat this step three times and calculate the average of the three readings.
NOTE: The minimum cylinder pressure is 350 psi. Cylinder pressure should be within 20% from cylinder to cylinder.
15. Combustion pressure leakage can be checked if cylinder pressure is below the specification. Perform the leakage test procedure on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer instructions.
16. Upon completion of the test check and erase any engine related fault codes.

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
• Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
• Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
• Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss

1. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature.
2. Disconnect injector harness connectors.
3. Disconnect CCV tube and breather drain tube from valve cover.
4.Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
5.Disconnect harness from injectors.
6.Remove the cylinder head cover carrier gasket. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
7. Bring the cylinder to be tested to TDC.
8. Remove the high pressure fuel line between the cylinder head and the fuel rail for the cylinder to be tested.
9. Install capping Tool 9864 onto the rail.
10. Remove the high pressure connector nut and high pressure connector with Tool 9015.
11. Remove the exhaust and intake rocker lever.
12. Use Tool # 9010 to remove the injector and copper sealing washer.
13. Install compression test Tool # 9007 into the' injector bore.
14. Connect the leakage tester and perform the leakage test procedure on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
15. Upon completion of the test check and erase any engine related fault codes.

Took me a long to figure out how i wanted to do this without interfering with the everyday use of the truck, that meant not eliminating the spare or taking up bed space. I also wanted two compressors for quick recovery and redundancy in the case of one of the compressors going bad. I also wanted to make sure all the wiring terminations and relays were easily accessible. I sized the wires accordingly to reduce voltage drop.







making a relay/fuse board. It was difficult trying to find a good spot for the relays and fuse that was accessible so i decided to mount it on the fuse box cover with rubber bushings. All the studs are welded onto the board from the backside.


I used the DEF tank mount as my mount for the compressor

because there isnt a flat surface on the DEF tank mount i welded studs onto the mount to mount a plate, all the terminations coming from the engine bay are done in a junction box mounted to the DEF tank mount cover so i can easily access it by removing two bolts and dropping the cover.

because of the way the tank is going to be mounted i had to plug up and add my own ports and drain.

tank is 2 gallons and 19" long, just enough to fit between the body mount and interior cubby on the passenger side. I welded extended feet to accept 8.375 U-bolts to bolt it to the frame rail which would mount the tank sideways as opposed to putting the feet on the bottom. I was having issues with some of the plugs leaking so i decided to just weld them shut to avoid future problems. I may relocate the air chuck to a more convenient location in the future.










I decided to run both compressors off one switch for now, that may change later on. There is a panel on the left side of the steering wheel directly above the parking brake release that makes for a perfect auxiliary switch panel. My truck comes with aux switches but i decided to save them for future use.





Here is the final wiring, I added wing-nuts with rubber bushings so i can easily remove the fuse/relay panel.

the compressors fill the tank up to 150psi in a little over a minute. These are not the highest output compressors you can get from Viair, but they were the industrial line that were more durable with 100% duty cycles. I value reliability over output, another reason why i ran two compressors instead of one.

Hope you guys enjoyed