OK boys and girls.........the results are in-
Here is the setup:

Does 2 cycle oil actually quiet the engine, or is it all in our warped minds??

For the test:
I parked my truck in it's usual spot on the driveway Placed a tape measure on the ground perpendicular to the left front wheel Placed a digital sound meter on an 8" high photo tripod with the sound pickup at 36" from the wheel. Recorded sound measurements on fast response, "c" weighting and adjusted scale for decibel range.

Sound measurements were taken with truck at operating temperature, no accessories on (a/c, htr., lights, etc.) Measurements recorded for truck at idle and 2000 rpm in park, auto trans. Setup was duplicated for straight ULSD and 128:1 2 cycle oil mix, both tests conducted at approximately 6:30 pm PDT., several days apart.

Test #1- 128:1 2 cycle oil (I already had the mix on board, so I ran this test first):

Reading at idle- 79 db

Reading at 2000 rpm- 89 db

Test #2- Fuel tank run as low as I dared, then filled with straight ULSD, driven for 125 mi., then tested:

Reading at idle- 84 db

Reading at 2000 rpm- 92 db

Conclusion:

The addition of 2 cycle oil at a ratio of 128:1 (or 1 oz/gallon) attenuates or reduces the sound generated by the diesel engine at idle 5 db, and 3 db at 2000 rpm.

Subjectively, the tester felt that the truck ran more smoothly overall and displayed less perceived vibration in-cab with the addition of 2 cycle oil, and also the 5 db sound attenuated recorded was easily noticed both in-cab and standing outside.

Respectfully,

Jonesie.

I know people have accidentally pump gasoline into diesel fuel tank. The tough part is proper repair for this would be to have the truck towed to a shop or home and have the entire diesel fuel tank dumped of the gasoline and diesel fuel mixture and fresh diesel fuel put back in the fuel tank before starting the engine. Some people just are busy and not paying attention and end up grabbing the gasoline hose instead of the diesel. The quantity of diesel fuel remaining in the fuel tank and the amount of gasoline pump on top of the existing diesel fuel is what will make the decision on towing or not. If there is a majority of diesel fuel compared to gasoline you might just get away with adding 2 cycle oil to the fuel say 64:1 to 128:1 ratio to bring the lubricity back up in the fuel. The other thing is gasoline is very high cetane rating. Back years ago and some still do mix kerosene or gasoline to the diesel fuel to prevent diesel fuel gelling. So if you do happen to pump gasoline fuel in your diesel truck small amount you can get away with adding 2 cycle oil. Do not use ATF which is way too high in ash content and will create other issues on top of the gasoline diesel mixture you've got now in the fuel tank. 

For truck owners that have a AirDog or FASS fuel system, you could use a jumper wire in the relay and output line. Basically, disconnect your fuel line and pump the gasoline mixed diesel fuel out of the fuel tank using a jumper in the relay socket this way the pump does the work for you and pumps the fuel tank empty if your gasoline to diesel mixture was too high. 

If you still have the factory fuel system you could disconnect that at the injection pump or lift pump. Then using a shop vacuum reverse the hose so it hooked up to blow air. This should produce enough pressure at the filler neck to push the fuel out of the tank and through the fuel line to a buckets or fuel container. 

As for siphoning fuel from the filler neck is impossible on most Dodge Ram truck being there is a rollover ball in the tank neck. This prevents you from getting into the tank bottom and getting the fuel out from the filler neck. 

Be aware that most shops charge a hefty fee for disposing of gasoline mixed diesel fuel. In the same token running the gasoline mixed diesel fuel in the truck will most like cost even more in damages to injection pump and fuel injectors replacements. 

Introduction

I've been adding two-cycle oil to my diesel fuel for about 110,000+ miles. So far, I've found outthat it has improved a few things like engine noise is reduced; fuel mileage increased, andknowing the fuel system is being lubricated is always a plus!

I've been adding 128:1 ratio every time I fill up with fuel. So if I pump 20-25 gallons, I'll add a20-25 ounces of two-cycle oil It makes it 128:1 ratio of fuel to two-cycle oil This is relatively lowratio and with not cause any harm engine as far as I have known.

There is another reason why I'm adding two-cycle oil to my fuel. It because of EPA changingthe sulfur levels in the diesel fuel. This will reduce the lubricity. Knowing that Bosch VP44injection pumps are a touchy subject you might as well add oil to the fuel.
 

More Information on ULSD...

First, I want to concentrate on the loss of the sulfur and why this is important to you. Sulfur isan Extreme Pressure (EP) lubricant. It is regularly added to lubricating oils and greases toincrease the lubricity and to raise the amount of pressure that the lubricant can handle beforethe lubricating molecular barrier begins to break down. Sulfur has always been a vitallyimportant factor in providing lubrication to fuel injection pump, fuel injectors, and to lesserdegree engine valves.

The reduction now being made takes on-highway diesel from less than 500 ppm to fewer than15 ppm, which for all practical purposes eliminates sulfur as a lubricant in the fuel.
 

Sulfur is a...

Extreme pressure additive. Applications under extreme pressure conditions rely on additives.Lubricants containing additives that protect against extreme pressure are called EP lubricants,and oils containing additives to protect against extreme pressure are classified as EP oils. EPlubrication is provided by a number of chemical compounds. The most common are compoundsof boron, phosphorus, sulfur, chlorine, or combinations of these. The compounds are activatedby the higher temperature resulting from extreme pressure, not by the pressure itself. As thetemperature rises, EP molecules become reactive and release derivatives of phosphorus,chlorine, or sulfur (depending on which compound is used) to react with only the exposed metalsurfaces to form a new compound such as iron chloride or iron sulfide. The new compoundforms a solid protective coating that fills the asperities on the exposed metal. Thus, theprotection is deposited at exactly the sites where it is needed. AW agents in the EP oilcontinue to provide anti wear protection at sites where wear and temperature are not highenough to activate the EP agents.

Unusually heavy loading will cause the fuel temperature to increase beyond the effective rangeof the anti wear protection. When the load limit is exceeded, the pressure becomes too greatand asperities make contact with greater force. Instead of sliding, asperities along the wearsurfaces experience shearing, removing the lubricant and the oxide coating. Under theseconditions, the coefficient of friction is greatly increased and the temperature rises to adamaging level.
 

Testing Fuels Lubricity

There are several methods of determining lubricity in fuels. The most common are: Ball on Cylinder Lubricity Evaluator (BOCLE), Scuffing Load on Ball Lubricity Evaluator (SLBOCLE), and High Frequency Reciprocating Rig (HFRR). The HFRR has emerged as the world standard and has been adopted by the ASTM and all of the engine manufacturers as the de-facto standard for measuring lubricity of fuels. HFRR ratings are counter-intuitive with the lower number showing better lubricity than a higher number.

On an HFRR test the number given is a measurement of the scar diameter (microns) produced during the test. The larger the scar diameter, the lower the lubricity, the smaller the scar the better the lubricity

Here is a few ASTM HFRR Standards...

In the matter of Lubricity the ASTM after many years of discussion, has set its standard at HFRR 520 for diesel fuel as a minimum.

Amount of lubricant in diesel fuel at 1 Gallon and 35 Gallons of ULSD diesel fuel.

When you look at it from this stand point the amount of lubricants have been reduced to next to nothing.

Updated: Jan 03 2007

I'm still researching products and more researching I do the further I keep finding that dieselsadditive are using mineral spirits, xylene, naphtha as an anti-gel and/or cetane booster.However, remember these chemicals are NOT lubricants. I'm also finding that some of thechemicals that they are using in fuel conditioners are cancer causing and have high healthhazards. Like I told one user on Cummins Forum, I've got a whole gallon of Xylene in the shopfor paint thinner, but I won't add that to my diesel fuel!

We are trying to find additives to add to our fuel that contains lubricants and not thinners. Withthe HFRR score set on ULSD and lack of lubricants it has the last thing your injection pumpwants is more thinners. The whole idea is to put more lubricants in the fuel. I got to admit allthe above chemicals would break down the waxy chains of diesel fuel and improve the pourpoint. However, It comes with a price of enhanced wear on your fuel system. So far, I haven'tfound any kind of product that is like 2 cycle oil for properties.

Mix ratio for 2 cycle Oil

The easiest way to remember the mix ratio for two-cycle oil for your truck is 1 ounce of oil forevery gallon of fuel. So basically if you put 20 gallons of fuel in you need 20 ounces of oil. Thiswill work out to about 128:1 ratio, which is very safe to use! This is just for information purpose.

Cummins authorize up to 5% of WEO (waste engine oil) to be blended into diesel fuel. Knowingthis now you can add up to 1.75 gallons of two-cycle oil in a 35-gallon tank. However, I wouldonly stick to using two-cycle oil and mixing 1 oz of oil to 1 gallon of fuel...

Update! How is Diesel Fuel Transported and Handled - April 18, 2007

I found some interesting document about the way that diesel fuel is shipped and I'm going to share these document with you...

http://www.arb.ca.gov/regact/dieslub/notice.pdf <- Some information on how diesel fuel is now shipped.

http://www.arb.ca.gov/regact/dieslub/hor.pdf <- More on how diesel fuel is handled.

http://www.ncagr.com/standard/diesellubricityenforcementpolicyletter11504.pdf <- How North Carolina is handling diesel fuel.

Basically, diesel fuel after being refined is well above the 520 HFRR rating which isunacceptable by any standards. So it's up to the delivery personnel to add the lubricantpackage to the truck before delivery. Currently, I cannot find anything that insures that saiddelivery of diesel fuel will comply with the HFRR 520 limits. As far I see there is no test of thefuel after its loaded on the truck to ensure it is within compliance or if the additive package waseven added.

Like North Carolina is saying, "It is our understanding that currently 40% to 60% of the diesel
fuel supply meets the new standard without the addition of a lubricity additive." Now how are weas consumers to be sure that the lubricant package was used when it's needed? I'm sure thedelivery personnel are not testing every truck load of diesel before it delivered to your local fuelstation.

RAW DIESEL FACTS - BEFORE A ADDITIVE PACKAGE

Ultra Low Sulfur #2 Diesel by law cannot contain more than .0015% (15 ppm) of sulfur. This fuel will generally have an HFRR rating of 600-800.

Ultra Low Sulfur #1 Diesel by law cannot contain more than .0015% (15 ppm) of sulfur. This fuel will generally have an HFRR rating of 700-900.

Remember: 1000 Microns = 0.039369999999999995 Inch

As you can see above raw untreated USLD diesel is well outside the range of the 520 HFRR limit. It requires a additive package. But once again the is no regulation that insure that package was added to the truck in proper quantity for that load.

Now saying this... I know there isn't a single diesel additive product on the market today that can promise to improve the diesel fuel lubricity below 520 HFRR level! Especially if its untreated diesel fuel with a HFRR value of 700-900!!! Just something to think about when you buying a fuel additive. But I know that 2 cycle oil is reducing that number for sure!

Update! Winter Time Performance of 2 Cycle Oil - April 30, 2007

For starters my lowest temperature around here was recorded at -20.2*F (-29*C) on January 16, 2007 in New Meadows, Idaho. This was recorded by my on-board thermometer which hold histories of HI and LO temps for both inside and out. During this entire season I never use a single anti-gel product on the market. Just diesel fuel and 2 cycle oil.

Now remember above in the specs sheet for ULSD the gel point is 0*F.

Now think about it. A snowmobile runs on a mixture of about 40:1 to 50:1 gasoline and 2 cycle oil. This very same snowmobile must run in extreme temperatures down as low as -40*F (40*C) and maybe lower. But what I want to point out here is...

1. There is no problem with 2 cycle oil gelling up in a snowmobile in extreme temperatures as low as -40*F (-40*C)
2. With mixtures as low as 40:1 a high performance snowmobile runs great. There is no reason why a 128:1 mixture in you diesel truck would lose performance to that mixture.
3. Knowing that 2 cycle oil is lubricating your entire system compared to using a harsh solvent (that thins the lubricants) to breakdown the wax of diesel to keep the fuel flowing.
4. Remember that very same snowmobile has no other lubrication system on board only the 2 cycle oil in the fuel to lube the entire engine. So it a prefect lubricant for your fuel system on your diesel truck.

As you can see I've go no loss of power or economy with the use of 2 cycle oil. All I got is high points! Think about it most people see a decrease in fuel mileage during the winter time. I'm not seeing much of a decrease this winter between the Edge Comp and the 2 Cycle Oil used in my fuel.

As for IP and LP pumps. I'm currently got 43K miles on my Bosch VP44 injection pump with no problems so far. Then I got 10K miles on my current carter Campaign pump. Which still got 11-12 @ WOT yet!

Update! Using 2 Cycle Oil in ULSD Designed Trucks (2007+ Diesel Vehicles) - April 30, 2007

I would highly suggest that no one uses 2 cycle oil in a vehicle that is already designed for ULSD. These engines have some very expensive equipment on board like diesel particulate filters etc. These device are not cheap to replace. Also remember this might or will VOID your warranty on your truck. These engine have been redesigned to be run on fuel that are very low in lubricants (Sulfur content).

UPDATE! May 19, 2007- 2 Cycle Oil And The DynoJet...

Well there has been a lot of talk about 2 cycle oil hurting to HP/TQ numbers. Well I'm here to set the records straight for once and for all...

First off let me lay down some baseline information. You all have seen my web page on my BOMBs and MODs I've done. Ok... We all know that the 2002 Cummins SO is rated for 235 HP 460TQ at the flywheel.

Run #1 - Stock mode with Edge Comp Turned off.
228 HP - 462 TQ

Well this proves there is very little drag between the flywheel to the rear end. Also this proves there was very little improvement in HP/TQ number concerning 2 cycle oil. I'm using conventional Dino lubes in everything except the transmission which requires the Castrol SynTorque. But still even this number is high for HP/TQ at the rear wheels... 2 Cycle oil maybe???

Run #2 - Edge Comp turned on 5x5
379 HP - 831 TQ

Run #3 - Edge Comp turned on 5x5
381 HP - 826 TQ

Ok we all know the Edge Comp give about 120 HP on 5x5 setting but now do the math. 381 - 228 = 153 - 120 = 33 HP difference! Where did this power come from? I got no other fueling enhancements and only a BHAF and straight piped exhaust 3"... Stock injectors, stock turbo, stock Bosch VP44 injection pump and lift pumps.

As for my fuel / 2 cycle oil ratio he is what I had. I filled up with 26.306 gallons of diesel fuel and poured in 32 ounces of 2 cycle oil (SuperTech Outboard). So that means...

26.306 (Gallons) x 128 = 3,367.168 Ounces of fuel.

3,367.168 / 32 Ounces Of Oil = 105.224:1 Ratio of diesel Fuel to Oil.

I admit this is a bit heavy mixture of 2 cycle oil to fuel. But I've been getting a bit lazy about measuring my oil so if I'm nearly empty I would add the full quart regardless.

It's got to be the 2 cycle oil helping the burn of the fuel.. So never the less I'm a extremely happy camper and will continue to use 2 cycle oil in my fuel.

Is 2 Cycle Oil Safe For My Cummins?

Yes. Two cycle oil is safe for all Dodge Cummins engines from 989 to 2006. This concept wasdesign around the Bosch VP44 injection pump but works fine with Bosch VE Injection pumps,Bosch P700 Injection pumps, Bosch VP44 Injection pumps, and Bosch Common Rail fuelinjection. However, it is not safe to use two-cycle oil in any vehicle with a DPF or EGR system.As for my own truck, I'm at 8K miles on the clock on Feb 25th 2011, and my injection pumphas 3K miles at this time still doing great and producing plenty of power and good MPGs aswell.

Will 2 Cycle Oil Plug Up My Fuel System?

In a simple answer, No. Two cycle oil will mix with normal #2 diesels and stay mixed. It will notseparate nor plug up filters or injectors. Here is a single injector after 80K miles in my truck withsolely two-cycle oil no other additives or injector cleaners. The rest of them looked the same.

Then here is what WEO/WMO or ATF looks like after a short period. (From another Cummins owner) Can you just imagine what the combustion chamber looks like?

What's Wrong With Using ATF In The Fuel?

ATF from the 1970s was nothing more than red dyed hydraulic oil. That's it.

Today's ATF has so many additives, like friction modifiers, anti-scorching compounds, etc.These compounds are designed to retard burning of the ATF in your transmission so why wouldyou think it would burn good as a fuel? Then the other side of the coin like looking at thepictures above the ash level in ATF is high and will leave deposits on your injectors like abovethis will cause performance issues later in life for the engine. The other problem is ATF is redso after adding to your fuel you now got a tank of red dye untaxed off-road diesel, and youmight have a tough explaining away the ATF fluid to a DOT inspector.

What's Wrong With Using Waste Engine Oil In The Fuel?

If you got over to the HFRR testing of the fuel additive, you'll find the results of running wasteengine oil was rather poor. Then the other problem of all the debris that is in the waste engineoil. A normal oil filter filters down to 20-30 micron range, which is not good for the VP44injection pumps or Common Rail Injectors. Both fuel system need fuels that are very clean inthe range of 10 microns or less. Like the ATF, the ash content is off the scale as well.

SuperDog Filter Numbers

PureFlow P/N Cross Reference P/N Manufacturer

AirDog FF100-10 FF5617 - Fleetguard 10um absolute, 60GPH
AirDog FF100-5 FF5587 - Fleetguard discontinued
AirDog FF100-3 FF5613 - Fleetguard 5um absolute 60GPH
AirDog WS80 FS19768 - Fleetguard 0% emulsified water/50% free water sep 20 GPH
AirDog WS100 LFF9594 - Luber-Finer 95% free water/75% emulsified water sep 90 GPH

NAPA Part # 3626 2 micron fuel filter works on the airdog!!! 6um nominal!

More numbers supplied by 1lowdiesel @ CumminsForum (AirDog Tech)

• Napa / Wix 3527 & 33527
• Napa / Wix 3697 & 33697
• Napa / Wix 3420 & 33420
• Napa / Wix 3616 & 33616

• CAT 1R-0751
• CAT 1R-0750

• Donaldson P551315

• Baldwin BF1275
• Fleetguard FS19768
• Baldwin BF7634

• FleetGuard FF5324

ASTM Labs Grading Scale of Diesel Fuel

So is it possible that any kind of cetane booster / injection cleaner containing these chemicals can IMPROVE you performance? It's impossible. They have a considerable reduction in BTUvalue and extremely low flash points like gasoline. Please take the time and look up your favorite additive in my MSDS listing.

Furthermore, for those of you that are switched to BIO Diesel / Ethanol fuels (Gasser). Take notice that both fuels produce less power compared to the Dino version. So it will reduce your fuel mileage some...

The higher the BTU value the higher HP/TQ number and MPG numbers you'll net from your vehicle.

So this also proves that cetane booster will increase the cetane level for sure, but it will decrease the BTUs and HP/TQ... This explains why in the winter time when they increase the cetane to 45 or better the MPG decreases. It because the BTUs were lost with the cetane booster added to the fuel. So this proves without a doubt a 40 cetane provides more power than45 cetane fuel.

Quick Story...

While I was at the Dyno when I got my results above. A friend of mine ran a very popular brand cetane booster in the main tank mix with the two-cycle oil at 128:1. When he ran the dyno on the two cycle and cetane booster, he lost about 15 HP/30 TQ from it. So he switched over to his auxiliary. Tank and ran just the two-cycle oil. The result was he gain back plus about 5 HP.So increasing the cetane level of your fuel doesn't mean you gain power it actually will decrease it!

Diesel Fuel Additives MSDS Sheets

	Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement + Cetane Boost Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost Diesel 911 - Diesel Fuel Additive Power Service Products FAQ
	AMSOil Master MSDS Index Page Cetane Boost Additive For Diesel Fuel Diesel Concentrate Fuel Additive Cold Flow Improver
	Schaeffer's Master MSDS Index Page Diesel Treat 2000 Diesel Treat Winter
Turtle Wax Marvel Mystery Oil MSDS	Lucas Oil Lucas Upper Cylinder lubricant
Stanadyne Master MSDS Index Page Performance Formula Lubricity Formula	STP STP Diesel Fuel Treatment
Howes Lube Howes Lubricator Diesel Treat

By:  Chuck @ Duluth Diesel
http://www.twinportsales.com

All diesel fuel inherently has water in it. That is why your truck has a fuel/water separator built into the fuel filter assembly that you periodically have to drain.

Two things happen to diesel fuel in the cold.

1.   The paraffin (petroleum wax) component of the diesel fuel will polymer together, forming a wax layer in your fuel. This is called gelling. Once the paraffin wax forms, it is very hard to reintegrate back into the fuel. This wax will clog your lift pump and fuel filter, leaving you dead on the side of the road.
2.  The water component in the fuel, which is impossible to avoid with diesel fuel in most cases, will turn into ice. Since fuel and water do not mix, the water component will separate out in your tank. As this turns into ice, the ice crystals stack up on the the filter face, causing filter icing. This will also prevent fuel flow and starve your engine of fuel.

So, any wise diesel owner should do three things in the winter:

1.   Always carry a spare fuel filter in your truck for roadside emergency use.
2.  Run an anti-gel diesel fuel additive that prevent paraffin wax polymerization, but also has a deicer that prevents ice crystal buildup.
3.  Keep 1 bottle of fuel reintegration emergency additive in the truck. This is smart to have in case you do have a gel or ice issue, it can reintegrate the fuel.

Ensuring that you run an anti-gel in the winter will keep you on the road by preventing gelling and icing.

Anti-gel explained:

Wax forms plate like structures (flat) and AMSOIL Cold Flow breaks those up, more like strings, so fuel can flow through. It modifies the wax crystals to allow the fuel to pass through filters, and prevent premature plugging due to gel. It also works well with biodiesel blends as well. Biodiesel has horrible cold temperature properties in general, and the use of a biodiesel-compatible product will help lower the point at which the fuel clouds, or begins to gel. Biodiesel or B100 does not contain paraffin since it is not petroleum based. When B100 gets cold crystals do appear and they act like wax in that they stick together and are large enough to plug filters. These crystals form sooner or at higher temperatures and are larger in size in B100 than in regular diesel fuel. Biodiesel is defined as mono-alkyl esters of long chain fatty acids derived from vegetable oils or animal fats which conform to ASTM D6751 specifications for use in diesel engines. The saturated compounds in the Biodiesel form the crystals that plug filters. When they form they are larger than diesel wax crystals. Most anti-gels, including AMSOIL, work best on biodiesel fuels of B20 and less.

The key to messing with paraffin wax gel is to disrupt it from agglomerating together into a “glob” that is big enough to plug a filter and or fuel line. A copolymer chemical (with molecular chains similar in size and distribution to paraffin) co-crystalize with the waxes and disrupt the crystal formation, thereby allowing your fuel to continue to flow through your fuel filter and keep you on the road.

As diesel fuel cools you will notice a white haze or cloud in the fuel. This usually happens around +10 degrees F. but can happen at higher or lower temperatures depending on fuel characteristics. The white cloud or haze is caused by wax crystals precipitating (coming out of solution) out of the fuel and becomes visible. When fuel warms above the Cloud Point of the fuel, the white appearance will disappear as wax crystals dissolve back into the fuel. The use of an anti-gel usually does not change the Cloud Point of a fuel, and if it does it is usually only by a few degrees. There are however some Cloud Point depressants that can significantly reduce the Cloud Point of a fuel. Cloud Point depressants will adversely affect anti-gels or Pour Point Depressants, however. Anti-gels typically affect the CFPP (cold filter plugging point) and Pour Points of a fuel. Anti-gels work on the wax crystals in the fuel. As the wax crystals form or come out of solution, the anti-gel will modify the wax crystals so they are smaller, will not stick together and will continue to flow through the filter in much lower temperatures than untreated fuel.

ULTRA-LOW-SULFUR DIESEL FUEL CHALLENGES
Reduced sulfur levels in modern ultra-low-sulfur diesel fuel (ULSD) result in reduced lubricity, the property that controls wear in the fuel injectors and fuel pump. Improving lubricity in ULSD is difficult because it must be done without adding sulfur back into the fuel. Additionally, ULSD is subjected to extensive refining, making it even more difficult to treat. For these reasons, many competitive claims are not based on ULSD fuels, rendering them inaccurate and irrelevant. AMSOIL Diesel Concentrate Plus Cold Flow Improver is formulated specifically for modern ULSD fuel. It improves lubricity, helps maintain engine oil TBN and prevents soot loading.

SUPERIOR COLD-WEATHER PERFORMANCE
As the temperature drops, the wax naturally found in diesel fuel begins to form crystals. The point at which wax crystals form is known as the cloud point. These wax crystals eventually clog the fuel filter and starve the engine of fuel, preventing it from starting. While low quality fuels may form wax crystals in temperatures as warm as 40°F (4°C), most fuels have a cloud point near 32°F (0°C). The point at which the wax crystals clog the fuel filter is known as the cold filter-plugging point (CFPP). AMSOIL Diesel Concentrate Plus Cold Flow Improver lowers the CFPP by as much as 34°F (19°C) in ULSD.

It also reduces the pour-point temperature of treated diesel fuel, providing better fuel delivery to the injectors during cold weather. It is formulated with a jet-fuel-type deicer that disperses water to control ice formation in all sections of the fuel system. Diesel Concentrate Plus Cold Flow Improver minimizes the need for the use of #1 diesel fuel, enabling better fuel economy, performance and lubricity.

POUR POINT VS. CFPP
It is important to distinguish between CFPP and pour point. Many competitors make great claims regarding pour point, leading consumers to believe their products are superior when they actually have an inferior CFPP. Once fuel surpasses its cloud point, the wax crystals begin to clog the fuel filter. The CFPP temperature is a more important characteristic than pour point because the engine will not run if fuel cannot pass through the fuel filter.

AMSOIL's summer diesel additive is AMSOIL Diesel Concentrate.

Cetane lowers the flash point of diesel fuel. It doesn't really add any energy or Btu content to the fuel. In the winter, cetane is advantageous since it makes diesel fuel easier to ignite at lower temperatures. This also improves combustion, which is good for minimizing incomplete ignition/combustion that results in cylinder wash down. Cylinder wash down in a diesel means that the unburned (incompletely combusted) diesel fuel washes down the cylinder walls, causing piston ring lubricity to suffer, which can lead to cylinder wall scoring and ring deterioration. It also leads to oil dilution (fuel contaminating oil) which deteriorates the oil's TBN (total base number) and lubricating properties.

Getting back to Cetane, since it lowers flashpoint, is an additive that is overused and misunderstood. In warmer months, especially when towing where cylinder temps and exhaust gas temperatures can be between 1,100 and 1,400 degrees Fahrenheit sustained, cetane can do a disservice. Lowering the flashpoint of diesel fuel in these high temperature situations can cause preignition (fuel combustion before the piston reaches top dead center, or TDC). This can cause a drop in power, a drop in mileage, and excess piston face stress. In an extreme case, usually in modified engines, this can promote piston failure, which inevitably leads to engine failure. I know Cetane is advertised as a power enhancer, and people tend to over treat with it quite a bit in my experience. For this reason, AMSOIL's Diesel Concentrate does not include a Cetane Booster additive. AMSOIL offers a separate product, AMSOIL Cetane Boost, as a stand alone cetane additive. This leaves the end user the option of adding or not adding cetane to their fuel depending on ambient temperature, engine demands and operating temperature, and fuel quality.

Running Power Service with Cetane Boost will not cause your engine to fail. My example above is an extreme case, in a modified diesel engine with gross over treatment. But, if you're paying money for a cetane boost that is causing you to see a drop in rear wheel horsepower and a drop in mileage, wouldn't you like the option to omit cetane additives during the warmer months?

AMSOIL Diesel Concentrate and AMSOIL Diesel Concentrate with Cold Flow are some of the better additives on the market when it comes to lubricity.

Running 2 stroke is the best thing for the HFRR (lubricity) rating in fuel, but 2 stroke oil doesn't give you fuel detergency, stability, anti-gel qualities, etc. In my 2002 Dodge Cummins, I run AMSOIL Diesel Concentrate (and Diesel Concentrate with Cold Flow in the winter) and I add inAMSOIL Interceptor 2 stroke oil for added lubricity. I do this because 1998.5 - 2002 Dodge Cummins trucks have the Bosch VP44 injection pump that is especially sensitive to fuel HFFR ratings for injector pump survival.

The lower the HFRR number, the better your lubricity. This chart was taken from mopar1973man.com (Michael Nelson). Michael is a guy who is a big proponent of 2 stroke oil in diesel fuel as a lubricity improver. I've had many good conversations with Mr. Nelson and agree with him on most points. I contend that while 2 stroke oil DOES add lubricity, it doesn't do much for gel point, and it does nothing for detergency. Keeping your fuel system and injector nozzles clean is important to mileage, power, and to keep from scorching pistons. That's why I run AMSOIL Diesel Concentrate as well as AMSOIL Interceptor 2 stroke oil. I get fuel stability, anti-gel, detergency, and ultimate lubricity. I've been running this combination of additives for years now with perfect results.

Running 2 stroke in diesel fuel is against all manufacturer recommendations. No manufacturer will tell you to run 2 stroke oil in diesel fuel, since that use is inconsistent with the labeling and intended purpose of 2 stroke oil. But the facts on HFRR speak for themselves. Also, I don't recommend running 2 stroke oil in any diesel engine that is designed to run ULSD fuel. Lubricity is mostly a concern for diesels that were designed to run on LSD and HSD fuels and that can be damaged by the commonly poor lubricity ratings of ULSD fuels.

I'm still seeing a large amount of people that want to continue adding cetane boosters to the 2 cycle oil this is not required. Today diesel fuel is approximately 43 - 47 cetane number. Please check over on the MSDS page.

There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number!!!

Mopar's Notes: So adding cetane boosters are not going to improve the performance of the engine and/or fuel.

Cetane improvers modify combustion in the engine. They encourage early ignition of the fuel. They encourage premature combustion and excessive rate of pressure increase in the combustion cycle.

Mopar's Notes: Look at the materials they use in most cetane boosters. Mineral Spirits, Xylene, and Naptha none of these chemicals are even close to the diesel fuel family. They also have very low flash points like gasoline! Every one of them are used for degreasing and cleaning solvents.

Cetane Number is a measure of the ignition quality of a diesel fuel. It is often mistaken as a measure of fuel quality. Cetane number is actually a measure of a fuel's ignition delay. This is the time period between the start of injection and start of combustion (ignition) of the fuel. In a particular diesel engine, higher cetane fuels will have shorter ignition delay periods than lower cetane fuels.

Mopar's Notes: Cetane booster tend to advance the timing of ignition. Hence the ignition knock that you hear. The lower the cetane number the less ignition knock you'll hear. Also the flash point and the auto-ignition temps of the fuel is reduced greatly.

Cetane number should not be considered alone when evaluating diesel fuel quality. API gravity, BTU content, distillation range, sulfur content, stability and flash point are very important. In colder weather, cloud point and low temperature filter plugging point may be critical factors.

Mopar's Notes: All of the cetane boosters on the market tend to reduce the BTU content of the fuel. Hence it reduces the MPG and the HP/TQ numbers. Sulfur content is been reduced national to 520 HFRR (<15 PPM Sulfur) which mean less lubricity of the fuel. Cetane boosters tend to de-stabilize the auto-igntion point. Go back to my Chemical definition page and look at the auto-igniton temperatures of the different chemicals.

Here is a sample usage of the graph...

Dark green = #2 Summer Diesel
Light green = #2 Winterized Diesel

API Gravity

API gravity express the gravity or density of liquid petroleum products devised jointly by the American Petroleum Institute and the NIST - National Institute of Standards and Technology. The measuring scale is calibrated in terms of degrees API.

As you can see as API Gravity goes up the BTU's go down because the fuel is less dense and contains less energy per unit.

By: Sam Martin - AKA: SamIAm @ CumminsForum.Com

The principle of fuel/air separation used by Fass and AirDog uses a fuel soaked filter media to provide a barrier through which fuel flows easier than air. The design provides a path of least resistance on the inlet side of the filter for the air to follow. This is accomplished by porting the top of the filter housing on the inlet side of the filter. This is what FASS and AirDog have done with their systems. I believe AirDog has gone a step further by providing an additional port (small) on the filtered side in the event that some air would get through the filter. A basic drawing/illustration of their systems can be seen at

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6892710.html

And looks like this

The benefits seen from providing your engine with vapor free fuel typically include 1) increased fuel economy. 2) Decreased emissions 3) increased horsepower and torque.

Check out pureflowtechnologies.com for a good write up on the effects of air in diesel fuel.

I built a test model from a standard fuel filter housing bought at the farm store. The inlet and outlet are both 1” reduced to 3/8” hose barb. I put a ¼” NPT port in the top of filter housing on the inlet side. In the picture below you can see a port in the side of the inlet. That port was not tested for effectiveness in removing vapor. Although I think it would work. I drilled & tapped another port through the top of the flange to use as a return line.

I then installed a 3/8” pipe nipple about 3” long in the outlet to use as a down tube in the center of the filter canister.

The filter housing with an extra port drilled and tapped in the inlet and 3/8 pipe nipple threaded into the outlet as a down tube. The port I tested for the return line is actually drilled vertically through the flange on the filter housing and is not visible in this photo.

This is the bench model less a few (borrowed) parts.

To develop a system like this one needs to know a few things about the fuel demands of the particular vehicle you are putting it in. (thanks to some help from Michael Nelson) I have a 2000 Dodge 2500 24v CTD with peak demand being about 28-32 GPH (gallons per hour) of fuel and I wanted no less than 12 PSI @ WOT (wide open throttle). My truck is not too far from stock L ….yet J

I found from bench testing (backwoods as it may be) there needs to be as much fuel as used at full demand (WOT) also flowing back to the tank to carry the air/vapor with it.

So I needed a total 64 GPH @ 12 PSI. It is important to measure peak fuel flow needed at the pressure the system will see @ peak demand (12 PSI) in my case. If you set up the metered return flowing 32 GPH at a higher pressure, the fuel pressure will drop at full demand and the return volume will decrease rendering your system less than optimal if not completely ineffective.

I used a Raptor 150 GPH pump for my setup and installed it according to instructions. It comes with a ½” line kit to go from the tank to the pump, then from the pump to the filter housing.

For the return line I drilled and tapped the back of the stock filter housing to accept a banjo bolt connection, using the connection that was originally on the suction side of the stock lift pump. I removed the fuel heater and drilled through the housing as near to the top as I dared. The only thing I don’t like about this design is that I haven’t figured out how to put a down tube in this apparatus since it is built from a water separator housing equipped with an up tube. It still works although I’m still considering options for improving the design. After drilling and tapping the hole I cleaned the filings out of the housing and re-installed the heating element.

I then used the original supply line with the quick connect (Dorman fitting) for the return line. I had to move the line forward a bit to reach the filter housing.

The next step was to tie the return line into the tank. I had cut the steel line in front of the tank for experimenting so I ran a 3/8 fuel line from there. The best is to tie into the filler tube or the auxiliary connection on the tank module. The systems you can buy are set up to tie into the filler tube but only because the auxiliary ports vary in design and/or placement on any given model year and would make it harder to provide a kit to match the vehicle.

For metering the return fuel flow I put a valve near the end of the return line. It would also work to put one on the filter housing instead of in the line. I adjusted the pressure on the pump as well as adjusting the valve until I got about 40 GPH @ 12 PSI. The return flow should be calculated to your fuel demand and desired pressure if you want optimal performance without taxing the pump any more than necessary. I wanted to go a little over 32 GPH just to be on the safe side.

After hooking everything up, I adjusted the pump to 16-17 PSI with the truck idling so at peak demand I see about 12 PSI. The pump still has a lot of adjustment left if I wanted to turn it up for a greater fuel demand... Soon

 I know a lot of people enjoy the idea of having an electric fuel pressure gauge so there is no fuel inside the cab of the truck. Most people get through the first year trouble free and no issues happen. But did they? Electric gauges are prone to the same failures like mechanical gauges. The only difference is mechanical fuel pressure gauge you can audibly hear the gauge buzz when the water hammer is occurring on a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Most electric gauges are electronically dampened so you never see the pulses. With electric fuel pressure gauges you might take on damage to the sender and not notice any problems. Then again if you compare against a mechanical gauge you might find out serious differences. There is a lot of people buzzing on the forums saying fuel pressure gauge senders are failing from engine vibration. This is not true. The fuel pressure gauge sender is failing from water hammer pulses created from the injection pump.

The Design

 So let me show what I've done and why I did this design.

First off I contacted Eric at Vulcan Performance and had him quickly produce the bracket and fittings for me. What this does is absolutely rules out the vibration angle. But there is another reason why I had the bracket made. Knowing the problems with sender failures I need a place that I could access the fuel pressure sender quickly and be able to tap in a test gauge. Now with the remote bracket you have a very easy place you can screw in a test gauge and verify the fuel pressure gauge sender function and see if its accurate. You'll also notice in the picture I've used air brake tubing from the sender back to the tap point. Air brake tubing is inexpensive and available at most NAPA part stores. Air brake tubing is rated for about 800 PSI. The length of air brake line is 5 foot in my setup. I was trying to give as much distance from the water hammer source which is the injection pump. Now another thing I opted for this go around is the Push To Connect fittings. This makes changing tubing or removing tubing fast. Just push the collar back and light pull the tubing out.

My tap point is like most Vulcan Big Line Kits where you have a Push Lock Tee Fitting in the center of the hose. I came out of the tee with a brass elbow then stacked on the needle valve, ISS Pro fuel pressure snubber and a push to connect fitting. Now the needle valve only purpose is to cut the fuel flow in case of an air brake line failure. It impossible to actually use the needle valve solely as a snubber. Since ISSPro EV2 gauges always reset to zero and then pop up to pressure so you never could adjust the needle valve to dampen the pulses properly. So that's why I kept the snubber after the needle valve.

So with this setup I'm capable of getting the fuel pressure gauge away from the water hammer source. I've given the fuel pressure gauge sender a fixed mounting bracket to be screwed into and not flopping around the engine bay on the end of grease gun hose that does nothing. The air brake line give distance from the source of water hammer so given it time to fade possibly in the distance of travel. A easy access test port for tesrting the sender to a mechanical gauge.

Why?

Everyone knows I had DiPricol mechanical gauges for 10 years now. Never had a failure with them till 10 years my pyrometer started to get flaky so why risk it just time to replace them. So I opted for electric gauges to see if I could over come all the fuel pressure gauge failures. I chose ISSPro EV2 Gauges for my truck on this go around. ISSPro has been around a very long time and I will have access to replacement parts anytime I need them. 

The 2 cycle oil concept was developed for LSD (Low Sulfur Diesel) designed trucks. (Pre 2007 model year)

WARNING!

DON'T USE 2 CYCLE OIL IN A ULSD DESIGNED VEHICLE!
DON'T USE 2 CYCLE OIL IN A VEHICLE WITH A DPF!
SUGGESTED NOT USE 2 CYCLE OIL IN A VEHICLE WITH A CAT!

Mixing Ratio

Under/Over Dose.

1989 - 2002 Dodge Cummins (1st Gen, 2nd Gen 12V, and 2nd Gen 24V)

128:1 Is the suggested amount of oil to add to the fuel. 1 ounce of oil for every 1 gallon of fuel. Overdosing will result in loss of performance and MPG. I've tested as low as 105:1 with out a loss. Beyond 100:1 ratio will result in a performance loss.

2003 - 2006 3rd Generation Cummins Common Rail

200:1 ratio is suggested maximum with 3rd Generation Common Rail Cummins engines. Don't use more than 200:1 ratio or reduced power will result.

 1989 - 2002 Dodge Cummins (1st Gen, 2nd Gen 12V, and 2nd Gen 24V)

Refer to the Ratio Calculator for proper mixing quantities.

Not measuring proper amount of oil to fuel.

Every time you get fuel you get different amount of fuel you should always measure the proper amount of 2 cycle oil to the fuel. Always mix to the proper ratio for your vehicle.

Refer to the Ratio Calculator for proper mixing quantities.

Mixing With Other Additives

Cetane Boosters

Cetane booster tend to reduce the BTU's of the fuel causing a reduction in MPG. Most people start reporting loss in MPG's cause by the 2 Cycle Oil. Actually it the cetane booster. Every winter when cetane level are high (>45 Cetane) most people report a loss of 2-3 MPG. There is cetane booster in the winterized fuels. So cetane booster will degrade the performance of the 2 Cycle Oil as well.

Refer to the BTU Values, Chemical Definitions, and MSDS sheets for more information.

Injection Cleaners

Injection Cleaners tend to degrade the HFRR score of 2 Cycle Oil and fuel rapidly. Being that most cleaners are of a solvent base and contain very little if any lubricants. Most of these products scored below minimum Government Standards (>520 HFRR) These are not recommended and might cause fuel system damage.

Refer to the BTU Values, Chemical Definitions, and MSDS sheets for more information.

I would highly suggest you upgrade you fuel filter to 2 micron filter to protect your fuel system. All 24V 2nd Generation Cummins have what know as a Edge Filter to protect the injectors from plugging.

Quoted From Dodge's Factory Service Manual (2nd Gen VP44 and 3rd Gen CR)

Each fuel injector connector tube contains an edge filter (Fig. 13) that breaks up small contaminants that enter the injector. The edge filter uses the injectors pulsating high-pressure to break up most particles so they are small enough to pass through the injector.

Anti-Gels (Pour Point Depressants)

Anti-Gels typically are produced from a solvent based stock or K1 Kerosene in any case a Anti-Gel product is much lower in BTU's and will degrade the lubricity of the 2 cycle oil as well as the BTU content. Typically a high performance snowmobile oil has a pour point depressant in it to prevent gelling of the lubricant at extremely low temps so its a excellent anti-gel additive.

Refer to the BTU Values, Chemical Definitions, and MSDS sheets for more information.

Under/Over Dose of fuel additive with 2 Cycle Oil.

Under or Overdosing is rather common. I hear of many cases where people mix equal part of both a fuel additive and 2 cycle oil together. This is completely wrong and should never be done. Always follow the direction of the fuel additive and add the correct amount of product t to the amount of fuel added to the fuel tank. DON'T GUESS!

Refer to the HFRR page for ratio amounts for common products.
Refer to the Ratio Calculator for proper mixing quantities.

Mixing with 2 Cycle Oil with a poor lubricant

You should never mix 2 Cycle Oil with a poor lubricant which is greater than the HFFR of the 2 cycle oil. All your doing is thinning out the lubricity of the oil with a strong solvent make it null and void. Like a great example of this is adding diesel fuel (Fuel Additive) to the engine oil (Diesel Fuel). We all know this spells certain failure of the engine. This is exactly what your doing with high numbers HFRR additives and your fuel system.

Refer to the HFRR page for HFRR scoring for common products.

Overhead Computer Vs. Hand Calculation

Overhead Computers in most trucks are not capable of being calibrated to the fuel and/or timing MOD's in a truck. So there is always a range of error to the overhead computer. This also holds true if there has been any changes to the driveline. All MPG should be calculated by hand. Here is example of my fuel records over time. Most people show about 2-3 MPG plus or minus difference between hand calculation and Overhead Computer in the Dodge Trucks. If you want to measurement on the fly fuel mileage with a accurate device I would recommend a ScanGauge II.

Weather Changes

Temperatures

Temperatures play a extremely important role in effects of MPG and performance of 2 cycle oil. During the winter time air might nice and cold for the engine to run on. But you got to remember if the air is more dense its also greater drag on the entire truck as well. Gear lubes and transmission fluids are much thicker. This will usually degrade the MPG numbers make sure your running the proper lubricants in your driveline. Winterized fuel also will degrade the MPG numbers as well.

Winds (Headwind or Tailwinds)

Head winds and tail winds will effect the performance of the truck as well. This is a forgotten factor when evaluation of the 2 cycle oil performance.

Road Conditions

Rain Flooded, Snow packed / Slushy

Rain flooded, Slushy, snow packed roads can reduce the MPG number considerably. not only is it a drag on the truck but it create more drag by cooling transmission, transfer case and axle fluids. This tend to thick the fluids and create more drag. Make sure your using the proper fluids in your driveline for the current weather conditions.

Speedometer/Odometer Errors

Oversized Tires / Driveline Changes

Modifications to the driveline, wheels, and tires can offset the odometer by 2%-10% depending of your modifications done. If this is true you need to recalibrate your exist speedometer by having it flashed by a dealer or a programmer like Smarty. If this isn't available use a a GPS and/or a ScanGauge II to get accurate mileage numbers.

2WD / 4WD Operation

4WD operation tend to reduce the MPG.

Changes In Fuel Quality

BioDiesel (B2 to B100)

BioDiesel is becoming a standard. But Cummins doesn't recommend using anything stronger than B2 for fuels. BIoFuels are better lubricity quality than 2 cycle oil and don't require 2 cycle oil or lubricant to be added. Be aware that anything above B5 will VOID your warranty on your truck.

Winter Fuels (High Cetane >45)

Winterized #2 Diesel and #1 Diesel are usually are treat properly for the winter weather expected. But remember all winterized fuels are much lower in BTU's and will reduce your overall MPG's.

Summer Fuels (Low Cetane <45)

Summer fuels usually will show the greatest performance. There is no reason to be adding a cetane booster with summer fuels!

Off Road Fuels / Farm Storage

I don't suggest or recommend using farm storage fuels and off-road fuels. First off off-road fuel (RED FUEL) is ILLEGAL for on highway use. Second off most farm storage is usually been standing for several months. This might have problems like algae growth, wrong type of fuel for the season, etc.

Overall Quality Of Fuel

Today there is all kind of different fuel out there. Every fuel has pluses and minuses to them. Some are more expensive and of better quality and other are rather cheap and cheaply made too. Quality of the fuel has a direct bearing on the performance of 2 cycle oil.

Changes In Operation Of The Vehicle

Drivers

Change in drivers and driving style can greatly enhance or degrade the results of the 2 cycle oil. Like the difference between husband and wife driving styles.

Speed

Excessive speed will reduce MPG greatly. MPG normally degrade rapidly at 55 MPH or greater.

Load Weight & Towing

Changes in loading weight of cargo of the truck will effect the MPG number.

In Town and/or Highway Operation

In-Town driving usually result in reduced MPG over highway travel.

BOMB's & MOD's

Existing Fueling and/or Timing MOD's

Improper use of fueling and timing will result in reduced MPGs. Please consult the owners manual of the product. Or contact the manufacture directly and get advise for proper settings.

Overall Maintenance / Existing Failure

IP / LP Pump

Condition of the existing fuel system is failing and/or damage will certainly result and degrading of performance and MPG's. Repair the problem and re-evaluate.

Refer to Fuel Pump Diagnostics for support.
Refer to Checking for Error Codes for support

Injectors

Faulty injectors will degrade performance. Please correct and re-evaluate.

Air Filter & Fuel Filter

Condition of the air and fuel filters has a direct bearing of performance. Please correct and re-evaluate.

Refer to Maintenance Schedules for support.
Refer to Fuel Pump Diagnostics for support.

Tires Condition / Proper Inflation

Improperly inflated tires will cause a degrading in performance. Please correct and re-evaluate. Typical tire pressure is about 45-65 PSI. Please consult your owner manual for proper tire pressures.

Brake(s) Dragging

Dragging brake shoes and/or pads will degrade the performance rapidly. Please correct and re-evaluate.

Clutch / Torque Converter / Transmission

Dodge automatic transmissions have been known weak link in the driveline. If you have driveline issue please correct it then re-evaluate

Sensor Failure / Performance

Sensors have been known to fail without warning or fail within normal operating range. In this case there is no error code produced. Verify that all engine sensors are operating properly and re-evaluate.

Refer to MAP Sensor Cleaning for support
Refer to IAT Sensor Cleaning and Testing for support

Pre-Existing Abuse

If the truck was abused by a previous owner/driver... 2 cycle oil isn't going to correct that... Please correct and re-evaluate.

After being on several other forums and seeing people damaging mechanical and electric gauges from water hammer and not protecting them from the effects of water hammer. Some are even calling this effect "Fuel pressure Hammer." I've always suggested a needle valve because they are cheap at $8 bucks and allows you to adjust the damping for your gauge.However, let me post a video for you here to watch to explain the water hammer

This will give you a good feel of what is going on with the gauges. Now remember the injection pump turns at 1/2 the rate of the crank but fires all six injectors in 1 360* turn of the gear. So let say your cruising at 2K RPMs so the injection pump is turning 1K RPMs but fires 6,000 times a minute. This is why you really don't see pressure change like my video, but since the frequency of the valve open/close causes a buzzing noise to mechanical gauges.

Furthermore, the irrigation system is much higher pressure compared to lift pumps, but the same effect happens just on a smaller scale.

Now you're wondering how to do this set up properly. Here is my setup on a Vulcan Big Line Kit(Old School). The left is the stock fuel filter housing and to the right is the Bosch VP44injection pump. Notice that all the senders, switches, and gauge tubing are on the other side of the needle valve. I suggest to be as far as possible from the VP44 in my case would be under the stock fuel filter housing. The farther from the source of water hammer the better your gauge is protected from water-hammer! So for you guys/gals with AirDog, FASS or similar without the stock fuel filter it would be best to tap back by the fuel pump.

I'm also seeing a lot of people suggesting grease gun hoses for protection from vibration. This is another forum myth running around the internet. Grease gun hose will not protect a gauge or gauge sender from water hammer vibration. As for engine vibration, it's not the cause of the gauge sender damage. Grease gun hose with isolate the gauge sender from getting a good ground and providing an accurate signal back to the gauge making the gauge inaccurate. I highly suggests installing a needle valve and directly stacking the sender right on top this will provide water hammer protection and also keep a solid ground for the sender.

Here is a video on how to adjust the needle valve.

.

Bosch Standards

Mopar1973Man Notes: Remember the above test for 2 cycle oil was done at 200:1 Ratio. But at 128:1 ranks much lower in HFRR so it will pass both Engine Manufacture & Gov't standards at 128:1 ratio.

Update - September, 19 2007

Blind Research study done by www.dieselplace.com

Here is the threads...

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177728

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178848

Here is the PDF file to download. Please read this document it has a lot of good information!

Diesel fuel Additive Blind Testing PDF File

This proves that all my research is on score. 2 cycle oil is a prefect fuel lubricant and WILL reduce the HFRR of fuel below that of all common additives on the market.

Update - January 3, 2009

Here is Bosch testing of fuel...

Bosch Testing of Fuels on VE, VP44, and CR Fuel Systems

Now US ULSD is at a 520 HFRR score. Untreated diesel fuel could score above 600 HFRR

Bosch VP44 injection pump with a passing grade at 400 HFRR. I'm fairly sure that 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil exceeds the 400 HFRR score.

Now US ULSD is at a 520 HFRR score. Untreated diesel fuel could score above 600 HFRR

Now Common Rail Engines passing grade at 460 HFRR now a 200:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil is very close to this score.

There is a lot of people now that are feeling the pinch from the fuel station when your seeing $5.00 a gallon and higher prices for fuel. But there is several things you can do to gain a bit of a edge and and make it affordable to continue with life. The biggest factor is speed if you slow down a Dodge Cummins gets better MPG hands down every time.

	45 MPH Statistics ScanGauge II Display Speed .................................... 45 MPH RPM's..................................... 1,308 RPM's MPG's..................................... 26.8 MPG Horsepower ........................... 27.7 HP (At flywheel) GPH......................................... 1.67 Gallons Per Hour A-Pillar Gauges Boost....................................... 0 PSI Pyrometer............................... ~500*F
	55 MPH Statistics ScanGauge II Display Speed .................................... 55 MPH RPM's..................................... 1,589 RPM's MPG's..................................... 18.1 MPG Horsepower ........................... 50.0 HP (At flywheel) GPH......................................... 3.03 Gallons Per Hour A-Pillar Gauges Boost....................................... 2 PSI Pyrometer............................... ~600*F
	65 MPH Statistics ScanGauge II Display Speed .................................... 65 MPH RPM's..................................... 1,880 RPM's MPG's..................................... 14.8 MPG Horsepower ........................... 74.6 HP (At flywheel) GPH......................................... 4.39 Gallons Per Hour   Efficiency of a Dodge Cummins is related direct to pyrometer temps and GPH. Basically the faster you travel or the more drag you put on a engine you must compensate by adding more fuel to keep the speed constant. So this is why you see a increase in pyrometer temp on a hill or when your towing. But at the same time the GPH rises as well during these loads as seen above. But to so you math to calculate MPG from speed and GPH will shock you. Mile Per Gallon Calucation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) = Miles Per Gallon Gallons Per Hour Calculation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Miles Per Gallon = Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) Speed Calculation Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) x Miles Per Gallon = Speed (Miles Per Hour) Now we will use the examples above to calculate MPG form fuel flow and speed. 65 MPH / 4.39 GPH = 14.80 MPG So since Pyrometer is a direct connection with fuel usage it only makes since to try and reduce you Pyrometer temps as much as possible which in turn reduces fuel usage. A rule of thumb I created that will hit 20+ MPG every time is.. Mopar1973Man's Notes:Keep your pyrometer under 600°F and keep you boost pressure under 5 PSI. As seen above with the 45 MPH and 55 MPH speed the drag or load was reduced by slowing down. As seen in pyrometer temperatures, horsepower produced, reduction in fuel usage, etc. These effect the MPG number directly. Like in the 65 MPH its consuming 4.39 GPH but now looking at 55 MPH at 3.03 GPH and 45 MPH at 1.67 GPH. That a huge reduction in fuel usage. Speed And Time A lot of people are telling my fables of... "I get better MPG numbers at 70-75 MPH than at 55-60 MPH". This is untrue and unproven. Normally this is said because of the factor of time. Most people are in a hurry. Well I'm going to show difference in time and speed. 10 Mile Trip   45 MPH 55 MPH 65 MPH 75 MPH 85 MPH 12.0 Mintues 10.8 Mintues 9.0 Minutes 7.8 Mintues 6.6 Mintues 100 Mile Trip   45 MPH 55 MPH 65 MPH 75 MPH 85 MPH 2.22 Hours 1.81 Hours 1.53 Hours 1.33 Hours 1.17 Hours 1,000 Mile Trip   45 MPH 55 MPH 65 MPH 75 MPH 85 MPH 22.22 Hours 18.18 Hours 15.38 Hours 13.33 Hours 11.76 Hours Efficient Driving Behavior Excessive speed decreases fuel economy. In addition, excessive idling, operating the vehicle in the wrong gear and accelerating and decelerating rapidly all consume extra fuel. It has been estimated that proper driving technique can account for a 30% variation in fuel economy. The following is a short list of behaviors exhibited by those drivers that consistently obtain good fuel economy. Simple behaviors, like coasting to a stop instead of staying on the accelerator until the last minute and then braking hard, add up to significant fuel savings after thousands of miles. 1. High average vehicle speeds with minimum time spent at maximum vehicle speed 2. High percent trip distance in top gear (90+ % recommended) 3. High percent distance in cruise control 4. Minimum percent Idle 5. Minimum service brake or exhaust brake activity 6. Number of Sudden Decelerations 7. Service Brake Actuation's/1000 mi Vehicle Speed Management The keys to managing the vehicle’s road speeds involve maintaining the lowest reasonable cruise speeds possible and minimizing time spent at maximum vehicle road speeds. The vehicle’s road speed has a tremendous effect on fuel economy. As road speed increases, so does air resistance and rolling resistance (to a certain extent). Thus, the power required to move the vehicle down the road increases. For example, at 55 mph, you may get 23 mpg; at 65 mph, you'll get 18 mpg; and at 70 mph, you'll get only 16 mpg. Anticipating Change The key to effective cruise operation is anticipating changes that may occur while driving on the open road. Maintaining a high field of vision and establishing proper following distances is a good start. Drivers should also do the following: 1. Anticipate changes in traffic and road conditions 2. Avoid abrupt stops or rapid changes in vehicle speed 3. Minimize use of service brakes (plan ahead) Cruise Control Operation Cruise control can be a great equalizer. While some of the very best drivers may still be able to obtain better fuel economy without using the cruise control, cruise control in general can make every driver better than average. UPDATE! July 18, 2008 - Mopar1973Man's Notes... Here is a few tips I found in my travels that work every time. 1. If you know the road conditions like narrow windy roads. Don't try and travel the road at speed limit. Back down to a speed that you can set your cruise control for and never cancel it. If you must hit the brakes for a corner you traveling to fast any ways. Being that every time you decelerate for a corner then accelerate back to speed you can loss up to 0.1 to 0.2 MPG fro every time you do it. 2. When traffic permits try driving slower or take back roads to reduce speed. Like here in Idaho there is no minimum speed limit law. So your permitted to drive as slow as you wish. The only laws we have is if we are holding more than 3 vehicles we must pull over and allow traffic to pass. 3. In city traffic try to find a travel plan that allows you to travel with the least amount of stops. Also try to avoid heavy traffic that might leave you idling for long periods. Rock-Solid Rule The most efficient drivers get about 30% better fuel economy than the least efficient drivers. Shifting Techniques Proper operating techniques result in the lowest number of engine revolutions per mile to maximize mpg. Constant operation below 1600 rpm significantly reduces fuel consumption. Follow two general rules: 1. Maximize the percentage of time in top gear. 2. Use the full operating range of the engine before gearing down. Rock-Solid Rule The most efficient drivers get about 30% better fuel economy than the least efficient drivers. Rock-Solid Rule Above 55 mph, each 1 mph increase in vehicle speed decreases fuel economy by 0.1 mpg. Operation in Hilly and Mountainous Terrain In rolling terrain, use a light throttle and allow momentum to carry the vehicle over short grades. In hilly and mountainous terrain, where possible, use the engine’s entire operating range before gearing down. When cresting steep grades, use gravity to bring the vehicle back to the desired cruise speed. Vehicle Power Requirements In the simplest of terms, you burn fuel to make horsepower, and you use horsepower to overcome all of the forces that are trying to retard or hold back the truck. So, a truck that rolls down the road with minimum drag will use less horsepower and consume less fuel. The power required to maintain a given road speed depends on the sum of the following forces: 1. Aerodynamic Drag 2. Grade Resistance 3. Tire Rolling Resistance 4. Engine Accessory/Drivetrain Losses Mopar1973Man's Notes: Oversized tires have a higher rolling resistance than smaller tires. Also street radial tires have less rolling resistance that a off-road tire. Aerodynamic Drag Aerodynamic drag is the result of forces (pressure imbalances) acting on a vehicle as it passes through the air. The magnitude of the forces acting on a vehicle depends on speed, frontal area and external shape. Aerodynamic drag is the most significant contributor to vehicle power requirements above a speed of 50 mph. As the following graph shows, aerodynamic aids can have a major impact on vehicle fuel economy on an interstate duty cycle and very little impact on an intercity duty cycle. Rock-Solid Rule Tires make biggest difference in mpg below around 50 mph; aerodynamics is the most important factor over 50 mph. Mopar1973Man's Notes: Lift kits that raise the body of the truck higher greatly increase the aerodynamic drag! Tire Rolling Resistance Rolling resistance results from the internal friction of a tire as it deflects (flexes) during motion. Energy spent generating heat in the tires is energy that does not contribute to moving the vehicle. Cooler running tires are more fuel-efficient than tires that run hotter. Complex rubber compounds, advanced casing construction and enhanced tread designs have led to new standards in tire performance. Tire rolling resistance is the second most significant contributor to vehicle power requirements. Tire rolling resistance is influenced by multiple factors: 1. Vehicle Speed 2. Load/GCW 3. Inflation Pressures 4. Tire Construction / Tread Type / Depth 5. Ambient Temperatures 6. Road Surface 7. Vehicle Tire and Axle Alignment Rolling resistance is the second largest consumer of power on a truck. The type of tire, size, width and tread design have a sizeable effect on fuel economy and performance. Fuel efficient tires have demonstrated gains as high as 2-3 mpg. Tread Depth and Pattern According to Bridgestone, the tire tread accounts for 60–70% of the tires’ rolling resistance. Not only do the tires differ in rolling resistance when new, but as the tread wears, the rolling resistance of the tire changes. A 7/32 tread wear represents ~10% reduction in rolling resistance (5% better mpg) compared to a new tire. Rib tires at all wheel positions will provide greatest fuel efficiency. Tread pattern is important because lugs have deeper tread (more rolling resistance) than ribs. If we take a new ribbed tire as the standard, a new lugged tire is less fuel efficient by about 6%. A worn tire is about 7% more fuel efficient than a new tire. UPDATE! July 18, 2008 - Mopar1973Man's Notes... Here is some pictures to look at...   Surprisingly... In the first picture the Michelin LTX gain me +3 MPG roughly because of tread face is smoother and the tire weight is nearly 20 pounds less. This reduces rotational mass and rolling resistance. Then when you look at the difference in the second picture the Big O XT will beat the Cooper STT hands down because it even lighter than the Michelin LTX but the tread face area is reduced. I've found that most all 235/85 R16 tires tend to be of a load range E design. As you can see in the 3rd picture the width of the tire is reduced but the radius is basically the same... So lighter tires with a smooth tread pattern save more fuel than heavier tire with a aggressive pattern... Tire Inflation Pressure Proper inflation pressures critically affect tire performance. Underinflation can detrimentally affect tire performance and durability. Specifically, it: 1. Reduces fuel economy 2. Increases tire wear rates 3. Creates irregular tread wear 4. Reduces casing durability Mopar1973Man's Notes: Over inflation will not improve MPG much more. But it will wear the centers out of the tread face quickly. Intake and Exhaust Restriction An engine that is starved for air (intake restriction) or unable to expel exhaust (exhaust restriction) will lack power and waste fuel. The extra fuel burns inefficiently at best because it takes air to completely oxidize the fuel and extract all of the power that it contains. Mopar1973Man's Notes: BHAF and Straight Piped Exhaust as really good way to gain MPG's! Engine Operating Temperature (Coolant and Lube Oil) Low coolant temperatures indicate an engine that is too cold for efficient combustion. Fuel liquefies on the cold cylinder walls and fails to burn. Of course, excess heat causes engine failure. Lube oil below the ideal temperature is more viscous and harder to pump. Oil above the ideal temperature is too thin to lubricate properly. Either way, the engine suffers. Coolant and lube oil operating temperatures can contribute greatly to fuel efficiency. Typical cooling system operating temperatures are above 180°F. A 0.4% fuel economy loss is associated with every 30°F decrease in temperature. Mopar1973Man's Notes:Typical Cummins truck will run between 190-205*F coolant temperature. Lubricants While the efficiency of drivetrain components is largely fixed by design, gross efficiency losses can be minimized through proper selection of lubricants. Synthetic base lubricants are manufactured in the laboratory to exhibit superior high temperature stability and low temperature fluidity. Since these fluids are created to exhibit less thickening at low temperatures, pumping losses are reduced and substantial reductions in spin losses can be realized at low operating temperatures. Test results indicate no significant difference in engine efficiency between synthetic and mineral base lube oils at normal operating temperatures. Since the synthetics are more expensive and, in an engine crankcase, are subject to the same contaminants as mineral based oils, they may not be cost effective. All oils thicken at low temperature, causing increased fuel consumption. The synthetic oil is less affected by temperature. This makes synthetic oils more fuel efficient at lower ambient temperatures. Driveline Components The high temperature stability and low temperature fluidity of synthetic lubricants make them ideally suited for drivetrain components. In this environment the lubricant is not subjected to combustion byproducts. This means the lubricant, with its higher oxidation resistance can last substantially longer. Drain intervals of 50,000 to 100,000 miles more than offset the higher purchase price of the lubricant. Dynamometer and on-highway vehicle testing have demonstrated significant benefits in fuel economy. Weather and Seasonal Conditions You can’t control the weather or the seasons, but they definitely affect your fuel economy. Running only on sunny days with moderate temperatures is very impractical, but you have to take the weather and seasonal variations into account when checking fuel economy. Ambient Temperature Air becomes more dense as temperatures drop, which increases air resistance. For every 10° F drop in temperature, aerodynamic drag increases by 2%. Thus, fuel efficiency will drop by 1%. Overall, fuel economy tends to be higher in the summer than the winter. According to North American Truckload Fleet Data, driving in the summer increases fuel mileage by 8 to 12% over driving in the winter months. Temperature also affects the tires’ inflation pressure. Tire inflation tends to fall when the temperature drops. Running tires low on air pressure in hot weather is more of a safety issue than a fuel economy problem. And heat is the tire’s worst enemy. For safety and economy, check inflation pressures frequently with an accurate tire gauge. When seasons change and temperatures fluctuate, increase the frequency of inflation pressure checks. Wind Headwinds and crosswinds can significantly increase aerodynamic drag and reduce fuel efficiency. For every 10 mph of headwind or crosswind, mpg is reduced by nearly 13%.You cannot cheat increasing wind resistance. Rain and Snow Precipitation such as rain or snow increases rolling resistance because the tires must push their way through the water, slush or snow on the pavement. Also, water is a more effective coolant than air, so the tires, transmission lubricant and axle lubricant operate at cooler (less efficient) temperatures. Rolling resistance and drivetrain friction in light rain increase fuel consumption by 0.2 to 0.3 mpg, per SAE testing. Fuel Blends While blended fuels provide better startability and protection against fuel gelling than standard #2 diesel, fuel efficiency decreases. “Summer” fuel improves mileage up to 3% more than “winter” fuel. Mopar1973Man's Notes: Most Fuel additives, injector cleaner, cetane boosters, high cetane fuels and anti-gel greatly reduce the BTU value of the fuel. 2 Cycle Oil is one of the few additives with a high BTU content. Also winterized diesel fuel has a considerable loss in BTU's over summer fuels. Here is a graphic display of pyrometer temps versus MPG's. These are rough measurements and will vary from truck to truck. But it is a good guideline. UPDATE! June 2, 2009 - IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Relationship Mopar1973Man's Notes: I've found that IAT temperature has a direct bearing on MPG numbers. My findings point out that warmer IAT temperature will produce better MPG number versus colder temperatures. Once the IAT temperature rises above 100*F or about 60*F outside temperature you'll see radical change in MPG's. The reason being is that colder air is more dense and requires more fuel to keep the balance but producing more HP/TQ but reverse this and warm the intake air and the air is less dense requiring less fuel to burn, also burning easier because the air is pre-heated and easily reaches the auto-ignition temperature. Then the colder the air is the more wind drag you have at speed. Warmer the air the less wind drag you have so this is part of the reason why summer MPG's are better.

Today I will be writing up the ultimate guide for all of the FASS (Fuel Air Separation System) products.

I'll start with some brief history on my truck. I first put a FASS system on my truck after finding that my replacement Dodge In-tank Replacement fuel module was failing the lift pump pressure test.  The Dodge In-tank pump was barely producing 8psi at idle which is below commonly acceptable standards of no less then 15psi.

I contacted Walt (Wally) at FTE Diesel about the situation. I had already bought gauges from him (my first major modification), and was happy to send repeat business after he was very helpful.

He told me that based on my plans for the truck the best thing to get was a FASS 95 series pump. This is the Titanium Series of the old days, which is now called the HD Series.

Basic Overview of the Different FASS Systems

Choosing a Pump System

You should really choose your pump system and fuel flow based on current and future needs for the truck. You must think of where your truck is going, and if you can stand to have something break.

For near stock or stock power levels a FASS DDRP is fine. But its advised to get a good pre-filter so you can filter out most of the large crud that could cause your pump to go out on you. And this is a major reason why the stock Carter lift pumps would die often taking their expensive VP-44 injection pumps with them.

For those with horse power gains up to 450-500 HP a FASS 95gph pump will do fine. But you should at least upgrade to a Titanium Series pump. This will also allow you to upgrade your fuel line as well, the stock 1/4” fuel line is not enough, so FASS provides you with some 3/8’s fuel line.

For those who are seeking 500HP and over expect to run a 150 GPH series pump, and ½” fuel line as well. Anything less then ½” will show especially on your fuel pressure levels as well.

Why FASS?

Well my first pump was a FASS, and if I got another one it would be a FASS also. I am not knocking Air Dogg, or Raptor, but the design of the system its self is what makes these pumps worth it. Regardless of your choice of mfg expect a reliable design.

How the System Works

(Image taken from FASS webpage HERE)

The Fuel enters first from the right side, where the water is filtered out along with all particles above 144 micron. The fuel and elements (fewer than 144 Micron) are then sent through the fuel pump and then filters through the other side of the fuel filter, where you can see the clean airless fuel is drawn up and the return overflow takes air combined with the remaining fuel and sends it to the tank. The clean airless fuel is then sent to the engine.

Optional Accessories

Optional accessories for the FASS system are things like draw straws, fuel heater kits, and replacement Banjo bolts.

What Comes In A FASS Kit?

My FASS 95GPH Pump came with replacement fuel line 3/8”s in diameter, (about 17 feet), replacement banjo bolts, a wiring harness with the proper fitting connectors to connect the FASS to the stock wiring harness, and a 30 am fuse on the negative side. Also included the Pump and warranty guide install instruction etic.

FASS Fuel Filters

Replacing your Fuel Filter is important!

Depending on the model types it’s recommended to replace them ever 30,000-50,000 miles depending on configuration and use type. Those who see good clean diesel need not replace them so often.

FASS Fuel Water Seperator

Your fuel water separator should be replaced when you change fuel filters, but for those of you who feel they can go on forever there is a method of cleaning them.

Unscrew your FASS F/W Seperator and then pour in gasoline or alcohol and then shake her up, open the drain valve and drain it out, it should clean your filter without issue.

Again this is just a reference sheet !

For the FASS Titanium Series there is a word of warning.

Emissions Standards Continue to Tighten

You may have heard that The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has adopted a tough set of diesel emissions standards aimed at drastically reducing the sulfur content of diesel fuel to improve air quality. A good thing indeed.
To meet those standards, petroleum refiners are producing Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) or S15, a cleaner diesel fuel that has a maximum sulfur content of 15 parts per million (ppm). When the full retail phase-in is complete, this fuel will be a direct replacement for Low Sulfur Diesel or S500 (which has a sulfur content of 500 ppm) culminating in more than a 95% sulfur reduction.
In a move similar to eliminating lead from gasoline to protect catalytic converters, sulfur reduction in diesel fuel is necessary to preserve the proper function of the advanced emissions control systems on new diesel engines. The combination of this cleaner burning fuel and the sophisticated emissions devices on the new engines will result in more than a 90% reduction in soot and oxides of nitrogen.

Look for the Label

Beware 2007 vehicle owners: Not all retail outlets (excluding California) are required to offer ULSD fuel until December 1, 2010. For a period of time, through this transition period, some fueling stations may not have ultra low sulfur diesel (ULSD) available. The pumps must have a label stating that they dispense ULSD, so if the label isn't on a pump, don't put the fuel in your 2007 vehicle—severe damage to the emissions control systems could result. Find a station that has ULSD to fill your 2007 vehicle.
Please note, however, that all diesel fuel in California was transitioned to ULSD by September 1, 2006, and no labeling is required.

But Can I Use ULSD in My Older Diesel vehicle?

All 2007 and later diesel vehicles sold in the U.S. for on highway use will be required to use ULSD. No problem here, these engines are designed to run on this fuel. But what about older engines—engines that were designed to run on Low Sulfur Diesel (S500) or its very early brother, S5000?
The argument here certainly isn’t in defense of higher sulfur fuel—its many drawbacks are quite evident. But sulfur in the fuel enhances lubricity, and older engines depend on it to protect their pumps and injectors from premature wear. To combat the loss of this lubrication, packages of additives that increase lubricity will be blended with the fuel prior to distribution.

Biodiesel to the Rescue

While synthetic additives will initially fill the role of lubricant, there is plenty of room for development of biodiesel blends that can easily handle the task. Because of its vegetable oil base, biodiesel contains no sulfur and has a very high lubricity factor. These two qualities make it an ideal candidate for blending with ULSD to solve the problem of lubricity while keeping the sulfur ratio intact.
Stay tuned. Biodiesel started out as a niche fuel touted mainly by environmentalists and the agriculture industry, but it is proving to be quite useful as an additive as well as transitional fuel while cleaner alternatives continue to be developed. For it pure versatility—as a straight fuel, and as a multifaceted additive—biodiesel has certainly earned its stripes.
Clearly the advantages are compelling, but as with any transition from one technology to another, there are hurdles to be cleared. Mainly it boils down to logistics. It will take time to develop the blends that perform well under various conditions (cold flow characteristics, adequate lubricity, fuel efficiency) and to get the blends into the infrastructure pipeline.

Cold Weather Considerations

The refining process used to attain the sulfur ratio of ULSD affects the naturally occurring paraffins (wax) inherent in diesel fuel in such a way that can cause the fuel to gel more readily in cold temperatures.
Though most retail fuel should be properly winterized for your local climate, some testing and experimenting with additional treatment processes will probably be in order. Higher doses of anti-gel additives may be necessary for extremely low temperatures—and not all additives that have traditionally been used for treating conventional low sulfur diesel will be compatible with—or effective on—ULSD.

Keep the Following Points In Mind:

• First look for packaging labels that indicate compatibility with ULSD.
• Secondly, be aware that mixing conventional low sulfur kerosene with ULSD as a flow enhancer will increase the sulfur ratio and could damage emissions control equipment.
• Finally, even in cases where it is available—cutting ULSD with ultra low sulfur kerosene may be ineffective as a flow enhancer.

Vulcan Big Line Kit was one of the best fuel system BOMB's I've done. I've down lots of research on what pump and fuel line kit to buy. The biggest thing was to find a fuel line kit that replaced all the factory banjos a plumbing. Be aware that Geno's Kit does not replace any of the banjo bolts or any of the plumbing forward of the factory lift pump. Also, Geno's kit is only 3/8" hose. Strange but true Vulcan Performance produces the Geno's kit for Geno's. So why do an incomplete job just get the Vulcan kit. It comes will all the fittings, hose, sealing washers, electrical, etc.

Now as you see in the thumbnail above there is a piece of 1/2" Vulcan line compared to a piece of 6mm Dodge OEM line. There is no way to more enough fuel in a small fuel line like that.

As for the electrical, you can tell Eric that you going to either install the factory styled Carter pump (Campaign Pump or OEM Pump) and he will send you the extension wire with the proper plugs. If you decide to install an FASS, generic Carter, Holley, Etc. He can send an extension wire with the factory plug on the one end and ring terminals on the other.

Now as you seen before you tell Eric about the pump he will make sure you get the proper fitting for it too. There are 3/8" NPT and the metric threads.

Since I'm still running a factory style LP pumps it a good way to show the change of fuel pressure with just the Vulcan Kit. This is with a new lift pump in both test cases.