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      Google Authenticator   04/23/2017

      Mopar1973Man.Com will now start using two-factor authentication to protect users accounts. All staff, donors, and customers will be required to use the Google Authenticator which you can download for free. Just scan the QR barcode and the app will provide the lock code. If you attempt to guess the code it will lock you out of the site. So please don't guess at the code. This will only appear to users that are accessing mission critical data to the member or the site.   I also enable the question and answers. If anyone has other ideas for question please PM to me and I'll add them to the system as well. The Question and Answers work similar and you must answer the questions to gain access to a protected area.  

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  1. Past hour
  2. Two wire plug. Green and blue wires.
  3. Is that the one single big black/ orange striped wire?
  4. are you sure your gears are 3.73? that would be very strange unless someone did a gear swap. Honestly with a snowmobile on deck and 1000 lb 15/16 mpg ( 14l /100k) isn't bad. Bigger tires is not helping, slipping trans is also not helping. Any codes? or any real reason to be worried about your injectors / pump etc? The vp44 is really a lot tougher than most give credit for, our injectors are good to beyond 300,000 k on average. I would suggest you unload the smarty until you get the trans sorted. Depending on how you have the smarty setup it can and will go right to full fueling right offidle, which is VERY tough on a trans and also very poor for mpg.
  5. Looks good man. Truck has a nice stance to it even with the trailer loaded! I think I'm ditching my 2in level for a 1in. Good to hear about the brake upgrade, when I start towing more, I'll be looking at this upgrade more seriously.
  6. Today
  7. Ok, 4" exhaust, intake, hx35 turbo (auto tranny), smarty tuner, 3:73 gears, 285/75r16 tires. No lift. Highway is prob 14-15L/100km (Canada). I carry a bit of tools and have a snowmobile deck on. Max weight in bed is approx 1000lbs. I bought truck used with 300,000km. It has a reman Bosch inj pump with a fass drp lift pump (replaced before I bought truck). I'm concerned injectors, or lift pump, or inj pump going. Oh and it's on stock tranny which slips slightly. I know it will need to be replaced soon enough. Thank for the help.
  8. How's this system holding up for you? I don't have any issues with mine but this is definitely something to keep in mind in the future.
  9. there is a lot of stuff out there on the forums that try to suggest trying to fix something that isn't broken. What do you consider not good mpg? What mods do you have? Lift? tires? gears? What speed do you typically drive? You can try slapping it back on and adjust until the ovltage is less than .45v but it will be a crap shoot as to it working or not. What settings do you run the smarty on? I have done a far bit of datalogging and I am really not a huge fan of the S03 smarty, sw3 was really the only level that worked well in my mind. Depending on driving style higher levels would cause pretty poor mpg if you drive spiritied
  10. I have an update on the 3rd gen brakes for those who asked. Driving unloaded around town, the change in the pads is not noticeable. When towing, they are very noticeable. I'm on my way to Kansas for a week with a 20' enclosed trailer (about 6000#) and I notice a stronger response from the front brakes. They are well worth the upgrade.
  11. All I have is a voltage meter? Am I stuck buying a new one? Tons of forums out there. Figure I'd try to get truck to run perfect. I've never owned a cummins before. I have a smarty S02. It seems to help a bit but nothing crazy. I use truck for work so I don't need tons of power. I just want the truck to run good and efficient. I don't pull a trailer. I've done exhaust, intake, HX35 turbo and smarty tuner. Just seems as if my mileage isn't good and... when I'm on the throttle a bit then let off it seems to accelerate slightly split second before off the throttle.
  12. do you have a live data tool to read TPS? Since you have already pulled it off, all you can really do is put it back on and adjust until you get 0 % tps at idle. Where you trying to solve an issue?
  13. Help, I went to adjust the voltage on my apps sensor, removed sensor and now there is no tag to go from. How do I adjust? I realize I shouldn't of done this... Thank you
  14. Okay sry it took so long to get back on here. I was busy this weekend & work midnights... Anyway I put all the information I could in my signature; thanks for telling me how to do that. I found out the other two codes: P1693 & P230. I cleared the codes & P0216, P0222 & P0382 are still coming up. I have a FASS fuel system & my pressure is between 14 & 15 at idle & while driving around 15 but jumps up to 18-20 sometimes.
  15. Are you sure it isn't coolant making its way into your oil?
  16. I changed my oe injectors out near 250k miles for a set of RV275's. I changed the RV's out with about 140k miles on them thinking I might have one going bad. Turned out not to be the issue. But i did want to try out something different and put in a set of 50HP DAP injectors with after market bodies. They work fine but a bit smokey. I their defense though I do have some boost leakage which is not helping. Hope to rectify that very soon and will see how they do. I have 10k miles on them at the moment. So to answer your question, I have not really had any problems with any of them, just experimenting.
  17. That's kinda what I figured on the test. It's definitely lighter around the outside of the spot I put on there. 3rd set? Change your mind or have you had problems with them? I really didn't think I'd ever have an issue with this set, but as I look back I got the aftermarket bodies and not the new bodies. Not sure if that hold true or not
  18. I use the dip stick to place a drop of oil on a piece of white paper towel. Do not need much. Looking for a fuel ring around the outside of the drop.
  19. i am on my 3rd set of injectors with the oe crossover tubes and they still seal just fine. I have read here in the past that some of the earlier 24v's have different tubes and the dont hold up as well. I dont know that to be a fact however.
  20. No don't loctite the nuts. Notice in the picture of the back of the motor.... your lines do not line up properly. I have been wondering why cummins used this type of "tee" to join the lines. (english fords and massey ferguson tractors are covered with them....) It is to survive the vibration and to allow a "little bit" of room for mis alignment of the tubes coming to the fitting. (but i think you have too much mis alignment) It is hard to visualize how this fitting goes together, but, make sure you slip the "o-ring" over the line, under the nut. when you insert the line into the tee, theoretically there should be metal to metal contact of the tube to the tee fitting. The nut crams the "o-ring" around the tube and inside the tee fitting. This has to happen in three places simultaneously.... The only way i found to do it with the motor in the truck, loosely put the line on the back of the the head, with the tee already started. Take the bracket loose from the block and start the return tube. Then see where those line up to the VP return.... and hope it is ok.... now try to see where the bracket on the return is compated to its proper location..... You can't use this tab to pull all of it back into place, you have to bend tubes so it is stress free. I hope this helps you! Good luck! If I have to do this again, I will be using parker push lock banjos etc to do it. That is a total pain. Hag
  21. I wouldn't use lock tite on that fitting. looks like the rubber got pinched in the fitting.
  22. I bought a new T, and all the lines a week ago. They came with brand new rubber on them as well as banjo bolt washers. The one in the pic is the old one. I had initally suspecred that I had smashed it against firewall during install. However, after tgrowing my wallet at the truck and showering it with money for new parts, I found the issue was a rubber gasket. The new parts did not leak for 2 days, then right back where I was... I am going to take the whole thing out again to see whats up....is it ok to locktight the bolts on the T?
  23. that's a very normal place to leak. use the part number lookup tool we have to find the right pn for the oring.
  24. Have you ever heard of the fuel return line that goes to the T leaking? I know there are issues wirh older ones because of the rubber gaskets that are in the fittings, but I replaced all the lines and fittings, still leaks fuel. Still driveable, it is not dumping put, but I can smell it in cab while driving, and it drips off of the clutch housing when I park. Besides the obvious, i.e. tighening the bolts, again, is there something I am missing? This is where I suspect it is leaking from, however, as you know, it is not an easy thing to get to when the motor is in.......
  25. How does the paper towel test work? I changed the oil last night before I drove the 20 miles home and still have it sittin here. Also I checked the oil this am and it's over full. Not surprised there, but was a little by the amount over. There's no fluid on the manifold or anything that would make me think it was the crossover tubes. It turns over crazy fast like there's not a drop of fuel in it. Not sure there's anyone around here to can pop test the injectors. Tryin to figure out if it's worth the labor to pay someone to test them or just buy new and get it done. These injectors are around 5 years old and probably has somewhere in the 60k like range. Do you guys recommend new tubes with new injectors? Looking at goin with DAP new bodies.
  26. I am sure it can happen on late trucks, but it is way way way way less common. It is not something I loose sleep over.
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