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    • Mopar1973Man

      Server Slowness & Strange behavior   03/15/2018

      I'm aware of the server and the site speed being weird. Might find strange server error messages and other things happening randomly. What I do know is the hard drive is hitting 100% load randomly and driving the server load up high. Then for no reason, the hard drive returns back to normal loads and server load drops. I've got the hosting company watching this and attempting to find a solution. I apologize for the performance issues... Thanks for understanding... 

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  1. Today
  2. I didnt know about this B+ to PDC removal that was left out in the earlier write-up part?? Where is the B+ routed to if removed from the PDC WT is there a complete Step By Step of everything that should be re-wired and re routed posted somewhere.? With all due respect,,,The incomplete sparse info,,, someone is going to try and re-wire and damage some of the truck's expensive electronic components, unless its is posted in a complete step by step Rick .
  3. @Marcus2000monsterThanks, and the alternator is a DC Power Engineering XP 270. You'll be able to find them on the web and they are located in Riverside, California. It is a 6 phase large frame unit that produces 200 Amps at idle and NO serpentine belt change is required. I referred to this device in the High Amp alternator thread. It is basically, a drop in platform however; to utilize the potential of this massive component you must consider a "new B+ charge line". This thread address that issue specifically because, the original #6 gage that is encapsulated in the factory 1 inch plastic conduit located in front of the engine would never survive a charge command from the PCM. The original #6 that directly feeds the PDC and passes through the 140 Amp fuse (which is entirely unnecessary) is fully removed. This is done specifically for three reasons. #1: A #6 gage B+ line is not adequate to pass 200+ Amps (the XP 270 will produce 305 Amps peak), furthermore, a high-current line in close proximity to sensitive 5 volt logic sensor lines should never have been produced in this manor. Daimler/Chrysler made this error in production of these vehicles over twenty years ago. Poor performing alternators that developed AC ripple, due to several factors, would permeate the surrounding conductive wires within the harness and render undesired electronic phophas throughout the entire vehicle. #2 The "strange" #6 gage Blk/Tan ground, that is "supposed to provide" critical "reference ground" for the VP and the ECM is directly parallel with this B+ line and in an unfortunate happenstance became a "balanced" pair of "wires" that created a "tuned inductive/capacitive" transmission line to efficiently transport this minor AC ripple with deadly efficiency. This #6 gage Blk/Tan (reference ground) is brought to ground directly as documented in this thread. #3 It definitely cleans up the engine bay with a touch of technical excellence...it is a win-win endeavor for the 2nd Gen Cummins enthusiast May I add...the Factory original #6 gage B+ line providing as much as 135 Amps during cyclic periods of the "grid heater" event, was NEVER ADEQUATE to conduct that level of current ! Take a moment to examine the factory #6 gage B+ line???.. It's stiff...it's cheap... it's cooked...it is a complete act of buffoonery on behalf of Chryslers Engineering Staff to have produced this level of electronic mediocrity . WARNING: for those of you who have elected to upgrade your system with any platform (alternator) that produce 180 Amps...you too must consider an alternative to this woefully inadequate #6 gage B+ charge line. If it melts down within the Factory conduit...you will lose your ECM..your VP44 and your PCM. With great respect to the Cummins Fraternity...I humbly share this information for the betterment of our rigs. Cheers, W-T
  4. I run both & my gauge is rock solid.
  5. Back to spark plugs...

    What would you use to treat the rust? Winter is pretty much done up here as well, but all the salts on the road sure rust everything out
  6. Yes you would be fine either way. I personally just have the valve but have thought of adding a snubbed but not to worried about it.
  7. Well guys looks like we got what we wanted!! Thanks @W-T this is awesome info! Also what brand alternator is that?
  8. Same, just a needle valve. You’d be fine running both though.
  9. Everything seems pretty good. I got down to just below 1/8th of a tank and the fuel pressure didn't seem to stumble but I caved in and filled up. I didn't end up drilling holes in the basket. I figured if I had issues I could always drop the tank again and add the holes (I'm getting good at dropping the tank ). I'm in the high 16.x to low 17.x psi at idle. It drops more than I'd like it to at WOT (to 13 or so) but in the not too distant future I'll be putting in 1/2" line all the way to the VP and probably bypassing the stock filter. If I do I'll look into adding a water sensor to the water separator/prefilter at the lift pump. I looked at doing the straight up draw straw but was concerned about the quarter tank issues I've read about. If I remember right you said yours works pretty good but you made sure its exactly the height it needs to be and not a hair more or a hair less? Yeah , the dangly lines scared me away from it. Plus the idea of cutting a hole in the bottom of my tank that could (but shouldn't and probably wouldn't) develop a leak.
  10. My gauge needle is like a humming bird wing. Cant wait for the needle valve to get in my mail box
  11. Back to spark plugs...

    i know the feeling Mike, i have 2 diesel trucks, and we also have a 2011 ford ranger. sometime i just like driving the little truck, it's easy to park. but it only gets 14-15 mpg, the two cummins trucks get 17-20. so it's kinda a wash fuel wise. it's time for that little truck to get some use.
  12. My fuel pressure line needle valve arrives monday Are you guys just running the needle valve only,,, for you fuel pressure gauge
  13. Head

    If you don't want to,cut the the radiator cap just put it on with a quarter turn. It will stay in place and not build pressure. You can limp home on it that way.
  14. Need to buy a trailer for work to haul large plastic storm water chambers to jobsites, 4' and 5' tall, 8' long, some 8' wide. Weight wise the most I would carry would be around 3,000lbs, but normal weekly trips would only be about 1,000lbs, plus trailer weight, towing with my 1/2 ton chevy. I could squeak by with size wise with some 7x10/12' single axles, or is it worth it to go with tandem? Looking at this trailer here below, besides getting some extra room and greater gvwr, does going from single to tandem gain me much? I usually only have 2hr commutes, sometimes 3hr. This would be my trailer that I rent out to my company, I'm debating spending the extra $1,000 for a bigger trailer. Any input would be great. http://www.hawkestrailer.com/2018-down-2-earth-trailers-82x16-landscape-trailer-equipment-trailer-5ybg|Xqe.html
  15. Well then... Here comes the side cutters, resistors, and butt splices...
  16. Yesterday
  17. Head

    Ok the truck is stock just didn’t know if it was drive able
  18. Did my VP go too?

    Stock pickup is too restrictive.
  19. Back to spark plugs...

    Comes with the screaming beaver. LOL.
  20. Head

    The little steel flap/valve. Not the rubber. Typically head gaskets go because of lack of coolant flushing.
  21. Head

    What would cause head warp
  22. Did my VP go too?

    guess I'm going to order a draw straw from vulcan.
  23. Back to spark plugs...

    There is a little wood butcher in you after all.
  24. @Dynamic as always you are a wealth of information.
  25. all sensor data that comes from the j1939 bus under the hood is 1 way.
  26. You are the fuc:ing man THANK YOU SO MUCH. That was it obviously.
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