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So I have had a problem this winter with a freezing fuel filter. I put it in when I installed after market lift pump. The filter is a small plastic type with a metal mesh screen ( required by the lift pump manufacturer to have a valid warranty). Its located next to the starter between it and the frame rail. Never had problems before this winter. To solve the problem I have had to double the amount of anti gel as I have normally used and add # 1 diesel to keep it from freezing and stalling .

Is there a different solution to this issue other than installing a heated fuel filter on the frame rail ?

Thanks in advance 

JOHN

Edited by JAG1

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  • I'm sorry no one answered sooner. Yes there is a better solution to what you are doing.   I think I'm correct in saying that the anti-gel solution dumped in the fuel is lowering the lubricit

  • Are you using something like this? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/na-33007-inlinefuelfilter/fuel-filters If you are I would guess that is your problem. As far as wind chill having an affect

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  On 2/28/2019 at 5:07 PM, madsen said:

I use Total Power anti gel as it was recommended by the local Cummins dealer.

Temperatures have been low of -14 at the coldest .Truck has not had issues in the past at -25 using the same fuel station and no antigel.

Temperature on Saturday night is projected to be -20 !

THe truck does not struggle to start at those temperatures just refuses to keep running !

John

You have temperatures similar to what I see, and I have had similar situations, Are you sure your factory fuel filter is not the source of gelling? That would be the most likely being the factory filter is around an 8 to 10 micron, Does it have the factory fuel heater on the canister? and have you verified it’s working. My factory fuel heater quit on me this winter and at those temps I have had to resort to heating the filter with a propane torch in a pinch to keep it running, until I can get some engine heat going.

 

I used to have a frame mounted raptor and it came with that pre filter screen but ended up not installing the pre filter screen, raptor worked for several years until it crapped out, and I went with a mechanical fuel pump and it has a 24 micron pre pump strainer and even that has not had any affect on fuel flow in cold temps.

  On 2/28/2019 at 10:59 PM, madsen said:

Wix 33007 filter 

Its intended to catch large chunks that do harm to the pump.

 

I have a similar setup, but I am using a FASS frame mounted lift pump with a Napa 3270 screen on the inlet side.  This fuel screen is 140 micron rated, significantly more coarse than your Wix 33007 50 micron filter.  Your filter would be very easy to replace with the Napa 3270 screen and it just might fix your problem.

 

- John

  • Author

I have not used or bought bio diesel.

I have not verified that my factory fuel heater is working, How do I do that, by checking for 12 volts or heat on the filter ?

Thanks for continuing to respond to my thread,

JOHN

 

  On 3/1/2019 at 12:27 AM, Mad Bomber said:

50 microns is big my filter is a 3 micron on my fuel

 

It's a pre-filter for a pump, aka rock catcher. 50µ is even smaller than some pre-filter pumps. 

 

This is not his only filter. 

  On 3/1/2019 at 3:06 AM, madsen said:

I have not used or bought bio diesel.

I have not verified that my factory fuel heater is working, How do I do that, by checking for 12 volts or heat on the filter ?

Thanks for continuing to respond to my thread,

JOHN

 

 

Some stations sell it and don't advertise it very well. It might just be worth a question, or another fuel station just to rule that out. 

 

An IR gun is how I check mine. 

 

Thou generally the first place you gel is the first unheated filter, which would be the inlet screen. While 50µ is huge for filtering, it's not huge for gelled fuel. 

  On 3/1/2019 at 12:27 AM, Mad Bomber said:

50 microns is big my filter is a 3 micron on my fuel

 

It might seem big but the overall size of the filter is small, so not much surface area. It is also on the suction side of the lift pump, not much vacuum produced v/s pressure.

  • Author

So I changed the big filter and it was quite dirty. I attempted to change the small screen filter.I put in the larger 140 screen filter but try as I might could not get it to fit between the frame and the starter. I was working outside in 10 degree temperatures and the factory plastic fuel line would not bend enough to get it away from the starter. So I cleaned the old plastic filter with brake cleaner fluid and air.

It clearly was at least partially plugged with what I assume was wax. It was a white substance. Truck started right up after I primed it a few times.

I have figured out a short term solution for the small filter.Going to use the Mercedes pre filters you see on the Mercedes diesel cars from the 80s. My large filter was black in color and the filter bowl had a small amount of metal shavings in the bottom. That is concerning.

After doing all of that I took it out for a long drive to see if it was leaking fuel. It was fine no leaks. I did something and broke my 4 wheel drive . This morning its 18 below and I have no garage. Going to wait till monday and hope for an easy fix of replacing the little vacuum box on the axle

John

Edited by JAG1

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Way I understand it is a water separating larger micron filter before the lift pump is best since bio and all diesel has all the developing algea and gunk in with the water particles/ portions of the fuel. The larger micron water separating filter before the lift pump will also allow for more stable fuel pressure by not creating excess vacuum that can conflict with the pressure side. You also don't want the lift pump to act as a blender mixing in water and other garbage in the fuel. This allows the secondary factory filter to do a better job, not become overwhelmed and allowing it to filter the smaller junk before getting thru. 

 

I use a 30 micron water separating filter before the lift pump and is designed for the suction side together with the factory filter like most others do.

Edited by JAG1