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Hey Gang...

 

while I was out on my trip to Hot Springs campground with MoparMom the first night we stayed in Emmett, ID. The next morning got up and pick up our stuff in the RV and to go and leave. Jumped in the seat and got half a crank and dead. Popped the hood. Everything appears fine. MoparMom getting worried we are stuck in Emmett, ID. Like I told her don't even sweat it I've diagnosed this a million times. So...

 

1. Swap starter solenoid relay with trailer relay (Nothing)

 

2. Swap the Starter solenoid fuse with Engine Control fuse (Start)

 

So I hopped back in the truck and start out and (Ding Ding Ding) :gages: and volts fell to zero, and few other gauges died. Hmmm... The fuse I swapped with was most likely the PCM and fuse must be cracked being the cluster worked for a few minutes and died. So since I'm still in Emmett, ID I went over to NAPA walked in with my fuse and bought a new 30A fuse and plugged it in. No biggy.

 

I figure I would share this tidbit with you all so a simple failure doesn't just make you jump for a tow truck but to do some diagnostics first and figure out if you really need that tow truck.

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It's a age thing really common to see from older fuses. They tend to crack and open up from loads and then cool and make contact again like my cases it did that exactly. Because it ran for about few minutes before fuse opened up again and tripped the check gage light.

 

I see, so not necessarily a blown fuze.  Just out of curiosity, what the crack/open visible?

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I see, so not necessarily a blown fuze.  Just out of curiosity, what the crack/open visible

 

Most of the time, yes the crack is visible. However, if you just glance at the fuse you would probably miss the crack. Glass fuses are really bad at cracking from age.

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