rlane547

The other day I was complaining about all the money I've spent on my truck and told my wife I should of just bought a new one. Then I had a job come into the shop the next day. It was a 09 International Maxxforce 10 with 25,000 miles and I can't remember the hours but they were low. The turbo was shot, but after getting into it I ended up replacing both egr coolers, charge air cooler,& egr valve. Had to remove intake manifold and bead blast the soot off of it and then clean the intake and exhaust ports on the head, which really needed to come off and be properly cleaned but I lost that battle. I go through this all the time and every time I do, I pat my old 24v on the hood because I don't want anything to do with an emissions engine. Cummins is way better than International but they still have their issues.

Mine overflowed a couple of days ago too. I thought it was possibly the heat because it was 100 degrees that day. I know my power steering fluid is good because I've had to pull the vacuum pump off three times and the first time I flushed it really well, then I drained and filled the last two times.

Thats what I thought. I've installed all three, spring toward the front/wet side. Also thought about fluid as well so I took a white wypall and put a dab of oil on it and a dab of power steering fluid. Then took a dab of leaking fluid on it. No doubt its oil. Cleaned around the area and ran truck to operating temp. It is leaking around the seal for sure.

Let me throw this out there in case anyone else may be worried about offending me. I want you guys to ask me everything you think might be a possibility. I wasn't raised to carry a big ego and a know it all, so don't be shy to ask anything. As for the direction of the seal, Mike is right. Cummins has one line buried in the directions, pg. 3 step# 13, "press into the sleeve with dust lip facing down". I don't know about Mikes but my directions look like they came from a printer that is about to run out of ink. There are pictures but they are virtually useless. It's also a double lip seal, so which lip are they talking about. I pressed it in like a pinion seal or output shaft seal. Open, spring side down. The closed faced side facing power steering pump. Maybe that is the problem?

Not exactly sure where its leaking this time. I'll find out tomorrow for sure. I do know without a doubt that the seal was bottomed out against the retainer lip every time. Also, I'm positive the retainer was fully seated as well. Each time, I inspected everything to see if I could figure out what was going on. Neither o-ring had been torn, rolled, or otherwise damaged. Both seals were in good condition. Outer diameter of seals were not torn, they were seated evenly, the double lips had no damage, springs are intact. I saved everything and inspected them with a magnifying glass tonight. I see no reason at all for it to fail.

Alright, need some help here before I take a sledgehammer to it. A few months ago I had to replace my power steering pump. I figured since I was going to pull the vacuum pump anyway, I might as well be on the safe side and clean, inspect, and replace the o-rings even though it wasn't leaking. I've now put three sets of o-rings on this pump and I'll be @#$%ed if it isn't leaking again. I make my living as a mechanic but I may need to think about a career change. The first two sets of o-rings were from Gould. A buddy had bought it but ended up selling the truck so he gave it me. I followed the instructions exactly and torqued everything to spec. First time, leaked between the retainer and housing. Second time, same scenario, but leaked from seal lip. This time, I'm not sure. I flipped it the bird, did a lot of cussing, and came in to ask you guys. Each time I have cleaned everything like I was doing surgery. There are no burrs, no wear marks, no dirt, nothing. Only difference I saw between seal kits is that the Gould kit seal fit tighter in the retainer compared to the Cummins. Any help greatly appreciated!

Oh, I took it out on the back roads, last Saturday morning and just acted like a total fool. I did several nice burnouts and just let the smoke roll. Then I realized I was still old, because on the way home I was calculating tire prices and how much fuel I burned. I had a blast though. I got in big trouble the other day. The wife and I were driving down a four lane and some kid in a V10 Ford kept pulling up on my bumper and backing off. He finally got beside me at the red light and every time I would inch forward he would too, then he looked over and that was it for me. I'm a redneck hillbilly and even though the wife tries, she just can't get rid of it. Anyway, when the light turned green we both hammered it. He got ahead for a split second but when I caught traction I went by him like he was sitting still. My wife screamed and hollered the whole time. I think she's still a little mad

RV275's are installed! I was skeptical as to whether or not it would make that much difference, but it is a very noticeable gain. The only problem now is it's going to eat my wallet for a while because I can't keep my foot out of the throttle. And is it wrong, that when I was boxing up the old injectors I was already thinking about what size nozzles I'm going to get in the future?

Give us a little info about your truck. When I installed a built tranny in mine, with raised line pressures, I had to install a 100 ohm resistor into the orange wire in the middle pcm harness. I had to fool the PCM into thinking the truck was within normal limits (stock), for line pressure, otherwise I would get a Trans Temp light on and it would go into limp mode. Not saying this is your problem at all, but there is always a cause and effect when you change something. I would check the line pressure. I believe stock settings are around 60psi idle and 100 wot. On a performance transmission it should be around 70 or higher at idle and 190 at wot. Knowing the year model would help as well. There is a pigtail harness out there that will allow the 00-02 models to run the old style governor pressure solenoid instead of the plastic version. However, it is not backwards compatible. Meaning, it will plug into the harness of the 98.5-99 trucks and look fine, but the transmission will do some crazy things. I found this out the hard way. Anyway, let us know about the truck. It's possible the valve body could be for the wrong application. What type of torque converter did you install?

That 1.5-2mpg is what I'm really excited about!

Thanks for the tips. I ended up buying some new Bosch RV275's from a local injection shop my company does business with. He gave me an awesome deal I couldnt refuse. Looking forward to getting them installed. Considering I have the 215hp rated engine, it should make a noticeable difference.

HX35 turbo

I'm ready to buy some injectors but I need a little help deciding. I've narrowed it down to RV275's or DAP 75hp aftermarket. I want to keep my cores. I really want the 75hp but worried about aftermarket bodies. Would like to hear some opinions.