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  1. 2 points
    That's what is great about this forum; the willingness of people always looking for a better/easier way to do something or the next best product to install on their truck and posting it. When you find it your wagon can get crowded quickly.
  2. 1 point
    I had trouble with both my 2nd gens when I put new Raptor pumps on each truck. I couldn't get steady fuel pressures for anything until Mopar Man suggested I adjust the regulators up to around 30 then down to about 7 a few times. That solved my problem. Perhaps the regulator is oscillating or screaming somehow and you should try adjusting it up and down to see if any difference. I don't really know but I think there are similarities between AD and Raptor pumps. I wonder if its cavitating starving for fuel from a tank screen clog or tank vent clogged? Did you install 1/2 inch draw straw and get those clog screens out of the tank?
  3. 1 point
    People like you is what makes the difference in this world among others on this site
  4. 1 point
    Every saved penny in corporate world counts, them bastards are working for bonus checks. The incentive anymore is not longevity, it's cost cutting for fatter bonus checks. It's probably been this way for a long time but now they don't care about crossing the line.
  5. 1 point
    I'm going to say right off. I do understand that cannabis is illegal in Idaho. I understand the risks of this but I'm not using cannabis for the typical reason like general public thinks. When I was diagnosed with bladder cancer several friends came forward instantly telling me to get onto the CBD oils and CBD strains of cannabis. I've hooked up with several friends that got me plenty of herb for treating my cancer. I can say without a doubt that even with my daily responsibilities I've managed to sit down at night and medicate myself fairly well. Now the first thing I found out that cannabis really is a great sleep aid when you have pain from surgeries. I was very surprised how well I sleep and there is no hangover per se from cannabis use. In my case, the cannabis has managed to stop the growth of the cancer cells and stopped the bleeding in the early stage of my diagnose. I'd like to hear from others on this and what they learn about cannabis use and what they found in information for medical use.
  6. 1 point
    @dripley, thanks for the follow up. It is nice to hear the details (the good and the bad) after a repair job is completed. I bet it feels good to have a good performing truck again. And it's quieter. That doesn't happen very often. I just towed my tractor to Baker City and I now have over 241,000 miles on the VP44. I am going to continue to run it until I see or feel a performance problem. Hopefully, it won't leave me stranded. You did leave out one detail, however. You did not tell us what else you use your head for if it is not just a place to put your hat. The details are important. - John
  7. 1 point
    Even on that old tune with winterized fuel I've been getting 17 MPG. The new winterized fuel tune I'm building I've made 2 trips back to back at 19.05 and 19.06 MPG. I'll be releasing a winter tune here soon.
  8. 1 point
    350k miles from my factory radiator. I still have it and plan on have the header tank repaired and putting my OEM back in service in the future. There is ZERO scale build up and just the rubber seal that failed.
  9. 1 point
    Timothy, learn how to do all the excellent work on your own truck and acquire all the tools. Then when you've learned you can start your own small shop and make a killer income. Don't mess around with things that don't let you get to where you want to be. But by all means take excellent care of your customers cause when you can really honestly do that it will be returned to you many times over. Once you get to where you enjoy the good things you do for others, the money will take care of itself. Focus on what you can do better for your customers and your ideas will build your reputation like non other. Don't be like Dripley cause he's always throwing himself into the fryer.......
  10. 1 point
    more progress....done with the 16ga...rest will be 18ga with some rolled in beads for support.
  11. 1 point
    7 x .010's and a quadzilla will get you %100 smoke free 500 hp. I would personally just stick with the 62 sxe given the 150's desired.
  12. 1 point
    got a little further last night after work:
  13. 1 point
    Well, rather than waiting for this to be fixed, I bought a new Android head unit with a newer version of Android. This is still a problem for other people, I just couldn't wait for a fix anymore.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    LMC truck offers the dash and steering column cover. I could most likely find the parts if you are interested in. Not sure how far back though. Just picked a door panel for the 02 and he had a big pile of them. Going to vist him pretty soon.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    car club meeting last night so tossed a few parts on to show the vision...
  18. 1 point
    Dodge electrics...... now thats why they don't work so good
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Like now in Ontario, OR there is Weedology and Burnt River Farms. I really come to like Burnt River Farms. They have a wider range of cannabis products. Now I'm going to suggest you stay to a Sativa strain of cannabis. Then lean more so on the CBD side and light on the THC side this way you can get relief of pain. Sativa strains tend to be more of a head high and don't pull you down as bad. Indica is more of body high and terms as "Indica is in the couch". Tend to make you body relax fully and great for sleeping aid. Like I jumped into the vape cartridges to see what it all about. I will warn you here and now the oils used are WAY WAY stronger. One toke is enough to get you ripped. I've got a tiny setup called the tank. The cartridge is a THC of 75% and just a trace of CBD. Very potent. As for flower there is all kind out there. Like Hotbox CBD sells Hemp flower which is mostly CBD and just trace amounts of THC. Like AC/DC Hemp is one strain that is in this list. The problem is since there is little THC there is no way to sense how much dose you've taken since its won't give you any per se high. This why I tend to like some THC so you can figure out dosing and get feedback from your body. In any case there is no way to OD on cannabis products. The worst case would be a good night sleep. Like for me I enjoy the pain relief it give when I get home from work. Typically my lower back and hips are sore and hurting. No problem get everything done for the day and hit the cannabis. Now I tend to like the smoke because I now to the point that I can take a toke or two and just enough to relieve pain but not get me messed up. Still function around the house. Now once bedtime is near then I'll break out and smoke a bowl. This now gets my night time dose and I sleep good. I wake up feeling great in the morning. When selecting cannabis flower you want to get something that is pleasing to the nose. Most shops will bring the container to the counter and allow you to smell different strains. I've got one now called "Garlic, Mushrooms, and Onions Cookies" sounds rather nasty but the smell is of garlic and onions. When you smoke it, it has the flavor of mushrooms kind of earthy taste. Then like my Vape Pen is "Huckleberry Diesel" go figure a diesel head like me. First toke you taste the huckleberry flavor slightly. When you exhale the diesel flavor comes out. Kind of piney taste. Like at Burnt River Farms they have video boards up that show strain name, what THC and CBD amounts, then is it a Sativa, Indica or Hybrid. You going to want to find a Sativa, lo THC and more CBD if possible. Talk to the counter person and explain what your after. They will help you out in getting just what you want.
  21. 1 point
    Killing cancer simply put by a biochemist, when THC connects to the CB1 or CB2 cannabinoid receptor site on the cancer cell, it induces an increase in ceramide synthesis that leads to cell death. A normal cell does not produce ceramide when it is near THC; therefore it is not affected by the cannabinoid. The reason the cancer cell dies is not because of the cytotoxic chemicals, but because there is a small shift in the mitochondria. The purpose of the mitochondria within a cell is to produce energy for the cell to use. As the ceramide is produced, it turns up the sphingolipid rheostat. This production increases the mitochondrial membrane permeability to cytochrome c, which is vital protein in energy synthesis. The cytochrome c is then pushed out of the mitochondria, which ultimately kills the source of energy for that particular cell. The presence of ceramide leaves no possibility of cancer cell survival. This is because it causes genotoxic stress in the cancer cell that generates a protein call p53, which disrupts the calcium metabolism in the mitochondria. Ceramide also disrupts the cell’s digestive system that produces nutrients for all cell function, and actively inhibits pro-survival pathways. The key to the cancer killing process is the accumulation of ceramide in the system. This means that by taking THC rich cannabis extract (with the minimum of 55% THC) ,at a steady rate over a period of time the patient will keep metabolic pressure on these cancer cell death pathways.
  22. 1 point
    You should call @Dynamic, and he will go over stuff with you. Did you know that Dynamic Transmission was founded in Hillsboro, OR? I started building transmissions for myself (after a couple of decades for building them for other people_ in the little shop behind our house on Jackson School Rd., near Glencoe High School. We still visit that area from time to time.
  23. 1 point
    That's what I suspect also. I wanted to call @Dynamic and discuss possible upgrades with him not only pan off ones but also what to get in a full rebuild.
  24. 1 point
    Dynamic, Your good advice is what all of us really need. I know we all appreciate, more than you know, someone that cares enough to help with the 47 and 48 re Trans. Now I have serviced both my trucks trans. They run much smoother, more consistent, but the sense of accomplishment in knowing its done right is a good feeling. I cannot find one inkling of a leak either.
  25. 1 point
    Yeah sounds like a disaster for sure with Cascade... how do they intend on keeping regular clients with all that going on. For true transparency I really don't reccomend folks follow my lead and tear their trans down as far as I did, it's a ton of work, you need a decent tool inventory, and some serious help from folks like @Dynamic, reading their posts where they help others out, I read every trans post for new nuggets of info, I've messed some up some parts on my build for sure broken stuff did stuff wrong, over bought (like the overkill snap rings), but I really have enjoyed the process, it's been really fun. I have no help with this hands on, I had to pull it myself like most others on here, it's a ton of work just getting it all out of the truck and apart. Here is my build... Some of these part numbers are wrong, it's hard to go back and forth for those.. Goerend: Also a second billet intermediate servo cover, broke the first one.. They are like $16. Amazon: ATSG Book, Some misc tools, snap ring pliers, small spring compressor. Dr.. Tranny Lubegard 19250 (the green assy lube) Cascade: OD compression tool, sprag clutch, OD .215 backing plate, OD alignment tool. Rock Auto: Transmaxx A12650 Sprag (was not what I thought it was) this was the smaller one, 22002EF Rebuild kit ($66) I wiped out a seal, Snap Rings, Pump bushing D22034B ($3.43) messed first one up. Hardlines from trans to front cooler. I might replace these again with hoses, I liked that idea I found on here. McMaster's Carr: Loctite Green sleeve lock, digital caliper, long 10" feeler gauges (I thought it was 48pc, which it was but was like qty 4 of 12 different sizes it worked for some stuff), small feeler gauges. Small gauge block, 6" .500 wide metal ruler., Dial indicator. Pure Diesel: Bought before my rebuild, Genos Garage: this was a nice reuseable gasket kit and mopar filter: MOP-KIT-3515996TRANSMISSION FILTER/GASKET KIT ('89-'971 $21.95 American Cooling Solutions: (19868) Transmission Oil Cooler Dodge Ram / Cummins replaces 3926670, 4762090, 4746216. This is the one that the engine coolant runs thru, mine was shot crusty and seeping bad. https://www.americancoolingsolutions.com/19868-transmission-oil-cooler-dodge-ram-cummins-replaces-3926670-4762090-4746216/ Transfer Case: Torque King 4x4, that Vacuum harness is pretty slick for like $40, mine were really crusty and cracked. Harbor Freight: HD Trans Jack floor version, this worked great, an extra set of hands would be helpful pull out the whole trans and transfer case as one unit was a chore.. Could be some more misc stuff I'm missing here....... there's always one more thing.
  26. 1 point
    Note to self, not that I'll ever need Auto transmission parts , but I'll steer everyone else that may mention them clear of that place.
  27. 1 point
    I hear what you saying..... my mileage is the same. Thank you for this. I just had a very similar experience with a fire sprinkler system company. Kept promising me they would get there in about two weeks. waited 3 weeks to find out they weren't coming. Called the county twice to verify if they applied for the required permit as they said they had, but no application was filed. It hurts because insulators and drywallers all trying to keep their schedules open as I need them, Now have to wait even longer to get them all. Its rotten when people can do this sort of thing too you, me and others. Cascade won't be getting my business. Dynamic, Thank you.
  28. 1 point
    That video show a GM conversion. They're OK, but not worth the extra money, in my opinion. The Borg HD will do everything that the GM conversion will do, but at 1/3 the price. Besides, the GM conversions use the late model Delphi EPC solenoid out of the 4L60E. I used to run into a ton of those things that would stick in the closed position when they got some miles on them. Many a 4L60E got to come across my bench due to a stuck solenoid (no line pressure rise). While the GM solenoid doesn't control line pressure in the Dodge conversion, it's still the same solenoid, and I've seen them stick in the Dodges, too (no governor pressure rise; no upshift). I'm just not a big fan of them, especially at 3 times the price of a part that has had excellent service, even a very high line pressures. As for Cascade, if you can get parts from them, count yourselves lucky. I used to spend thousands of dollars buying parts from him. The only problem was that he wanted the tens of thousands of dollars in business that I spent elsewhere. Every time I would talk to him (back when they actually had a phone number and you could talk to someone), he was always trying to convince me that I should bring all of my business to him, and most annoyingly that the Exedy frictions that he carried were superior to everything else on the market (because they were OEM in Honda applications, he would say). I would always politely decline because I have 2 local warehouses that deliver the parts I use (not Exedy, BTW...) twice a day, and that buying from him and waiting 2 days for UPS to bring my order made little business sense. He had some good prices on certain OEM stuff (48RE OD housings, 48RE direct drums, etc.), and that's what I would buy. Over time, I found other sources for that stuff, and I quit using him altogether. Last year, I had a BMW transmission (one of my personal cars) apart, and needed some frictions for it. Lo and behold, he showed them in stock, and at a good price. I was headed off to SEMA, so I'd be gone for a week, so I ordered them from him. The order was placed online (due to them not having a phone number anymore), and off I went to SEMA for the week. When I got back, I went to put the BMW back together and...no frictions. They showed that they had not even shipped; in fact they showed no activity at all on my account. I checked my credit card and sure enough, they had pulled the funds from me, but no parts. I contacted them (email, no phone...) to hurry this along as I now had a BMW X5 tying up my lift. No response...ever. I eventually had to contest the charges on my card, and get my parts elsewhere. Apparently the fraction of my business that I did with him was not enough, and he kicked me to the curb. Quite disappointing, I would say... Your mileage may vary...
  29. 1 point
    Transfer Case Stuff https://torqueking.com/ Transmission Stuff http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/ https://goerend.com/dodge/ Available on RA and other sites: Anything from.... Transmaxx Transtar Interior Stuff https://www.stockinteriors.com/ Hose Kits https://www.mrbobsdistributing.com/ Exactly what it says https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Default.asp Battery Cables https://www.custombatterycables.com/ Used Parts http://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm That is a part locator service for local yards. Very useful site. Everything (but higher prices low shipping) good quality https://www.mcmaster.com/
  30. 1 point
    I've only got one more surgery. As my neighbor here in Riggins just got wonderful news. I know hes been using RSO. Rick Simpson's Oil. https://www.leafly.com/news/cannabis-101/what-is-rick-simpson-oil We are suppose to meet up after my surgery. Share our stories and what cannabis secrets together.
  31. 1 point
    No wonder we are seeing a lot of old old hippies still around I'm going to have to start studying up on this stuff. Someone told me a long time ago that the system is set up to manipulate profits and the Gov't also doesn't want us to collect social security by living forever. My grampa went till 96 and always said stay away from doctors Mike.
  32. 1 point
    I understand that you are very concerned that the event won't happen again - I would be concerned, too. A poor ground at a single connection that combine multiple circuits could cause electrical components to randomly not operate properly. Heat could build at the poor ground connection, but I don't think it would cause heat to build in joint connector #2. There could be two ways for heat to build in joint connector #2. 1. If the connection in joint connector #2 was corroded or cracked, then normal current flowing in that circuit could generate enough heat to damage the connection. 2. If higher than normal current was flowing in that circuit, but still less current than the properly rated fuse, then heat could be generated anywhere in the weakest part of the circuit, including joint connector #2. Since there are multiple connections in joint connector #2, you could re-inspect the damaged connector to find out exactly which wires were involved. Then you would only need to inspect the wiring and components downstream from the damaged connection. Also, you should make sure nobody has added an additional electrical load to that circuit. - John
  33. 1 point
    You guys got me real scared now since my coolant bottle keeps needing coolant. Refill about 1-2 inches each day, but I'm hoping its just the engine burping from a water pump replacement last weekend. I was changing the starter when coolant was dripping on me cheeks. No Dripley it the cheeks on my face not the way your thinkin'
  34. 1 point
    Gents, A few years ago I ... ok a really good friend of mine who is a wizard of a mechanic helped/did a lot of it... we stuffed a 4BT into a 71 Ford. We ended up doing a lot more then just the engine. Dana 44 out of a 78 F250 (disk brakes) Power steering box out of a 78 Power brakes using the chev bread van hydro boost 5 speed from a 90s ford with a mated 205. About all thats original is the body, frame, and dana 60 rear. I tried my hand at Youtube and still post videos from time to time. I think i am up to 8 videos, some of them are probably a little boring. My future plane is to actually tune the pump to decrease smoke and hopefully increase power. I am also thinking about flatbed-ing it this winter. Thought I would share.
  35. 1 point
    With 3.55 gear optimal the 245's are the best ratio for common road driving. Interstate either 235's or 265's are perfect. If you want the larger tires you need to start with 4.10 gears at least for everything up to 35" tire. 37" tire would be best with 4.56 gears. This is the big mistake of all because so many people put 35 to 37 inch tires on 3.55 geared axles then end up eating driveline and transmissions and can't figure out why. Then complain about MPG being as low as 12 MPG and EGT's are through the roof towing even the smaller trailers. Gearing is very important! I still love hunting down 3rd gens with 37 inch tires on 3.42 gears. They lose street races easy. Look cool but no power.
  36. 1 point
    i always give my stuff a tug before i button up lol no pun intended...
  37. 1 point
    I did just that. Used the soap cannon, scrubbed, and then power washed. It takes a couple days to fully dry because of the padding. While it's drying, I'd suggest putting down some sound dampening material. You'd be surprised how much this quiets the cab. Personally I used "peal and seal" or frost king duct insulation, each have their perks. Frost king is thicker but peal and seal is easier to work with and can get in tight places. Both can be picked up at Lowe's or Home Depot. I use spray foam in 2 places. All doors are done in peal and seal too.
  38. 1 point
    Flushing the Coolant System Draining Coolant On a cool engine (less than 140*F) remove the radiator cap. Now at the bottom of the radiator, there is a drain valve on the radiator. The drain turns 1/2 turn then pulls outward slightly then continues to turn to drain. To drain the overflow bottom it just easier to remove the hose from the radiator neck and then pull the overflow bottle upwards from the fan shroud. Flushing Cooling System Flushing the cooling system you'll need to remove the thermostat. There are three 8mm head bolts holding the cover in place. Once the cover is removed you can lift the thermostat out. Now replace the thermostat cover and the upper hose. The upper hose should only be hooked to the thermostat housing. This will direct the water away from the fan for you. Now using a garden hose at full flow you can place it in the radiator fill neck. Start the truck. Allow the water to flow till all solid debris and coolant color is gone. The water should come out clear. You can lightly rev the engine to pump water forceful for bursts. This will help push water through the heater core flushing it as well. Take notice the radiator is removed in this flushing. Filling With Coolant Now as for coolant, our trucks came factory with green coolant. You may use green, yellow (universal) or orange (HOAT). Just remember "Universal Yellow" typically can be mixed with green or orange coolants in an emergency. NEVER mix green and orange coolants! If you are going to switch coolant make sure to flush the system thoroughly. I typically will park the truck on a nose down slope to attempt to get water out of the system. Cummins cooling system holds 6 gallons typically there is roughly a gallon trapped in the block. So the first gallon goes in full strength. All other coolant is mixed 50/50 before using after the first gallon. As for mixing coolant and water. Most suggest distilled water be used. Now back during the flushing, I had removed thermostat now you can fill the entire system till its right to the top of the block. This allows you to fill without having to burp the system later. Now once the block is full to the top you can install a new thermostat (suggested) or re-use your old thermostat. Re-assemble your thermostat housing. Make sure to use anti-seize on the thermostat bolts. Re-assemble your upper hose. Now finish topping off the cooling system with mixed coolant. Make sure to fill the overflow bottle to the FULL mark. Coolant Color & Condition I'm going to say don't open the radiator cap and look and say, "Yep it's still (whatever color) its still good." I've heard this a million times. If a customer is willing I drain their radiator and show them typically the first gallon comes out rusty brown, then may change back to coolant color slowly as it drains. What happens is every time you start your engine your passing high current flow through the block and tends to change the pH of the coolant just like changing a battery. So over time coolant will shift from pH of 7 and typically shift corrosive. Lime scale builds up typically is from not the water but from dissolving metals in the cooling system from the corrosive coolant. So don't get hung up on the idea of long interval coolants like HOAT or distilled water will protect you from scale build up. You can still get scale build up with distilled water or premixed coolants. Simply put if the coolant starts to darken in color it already failed. Personal Results As for my truck the first 150k miles was on green coolants. I was flushing the system every 30k miles or so. I will clearly state I've NEVER used distilled water in my truck. I've used either the irrigation water which is from a creek behind the house or from the well that is here on the property. No water here is treated or chlorinated. I'm now using "Universal Yellow Coolant" typically found as WalMart SuperTech, Prestone, and even Napa coolants. I've never had an overheat once. I've never had a heater core plug up. No limescale build up. 100k miles and 5 years.... Updated pictures... This is my cooling system after 9 years and 180K miles now... 2015 (13 years later) and 255k miles later.... Using Universal Yellow Coolants. Still no scale build up or cooling issues. This batch was extended to 70,000 roughly and 2 years. 350k miles 07/20/2018. Coolant change with NAPA Extended Life. July 2019 - 385k miles and replaced the oil cooler gasket. As you can see after 17 years of service and using tap water (well water) or creek water like I have there is zero scale build up yet.
  39. 1 point
    Mopar1973Man's Crankcase Vent Stock breather issues... The main issue with OEM crankcase vent is it is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case. The piece of hose elbows over the case and points down towards the ground. There are two versions of this crankcase. One involves a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other does not. A Technical Service Bulleting (TSB) was released on this issue as well: TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow). This bulletin warns of a potential of extreme loss of oil from a truck descending at too steep of a slope while off-roading. During this loss of oil, oil also has been known to scatter all over the engine and radiator. This scattering of oil causes the collection of dust and dirt in the face of the radiator. This collection causes overheating issues for your truck. Even in with normal use, the cases that include a breather bottle can emit enough oil vapors make the radiator gunky with the collection dirt and dust. Another TSB on this issue is TSB 09-02-00 (A Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor Coming From the Diesel Engine Compartment). This bulletin was written about the foul heavy oil smell after an oil change. Although it is normal for some brand of oils to have this heavy smell anyway My own personal fix… Here is a short video of normal blow by...
  40. 1 point
    It is literally the same when it's running.... (shamelessly reused from pg. 4)
  41. 1 point
    This is the best show I have seen in a while. Makes me feel better about my steering. Kind a like bonus footage.
  42. 1 point
    Ok so on my 99 cummins there is nothing that says what fluid should be in my p/s pump. Can't find my owners manual. So I looked on here at downloads and they don't give a fluid spec. So next thing was google. Some people are using Lucas or atf +4 or whatever. I have a bottle of plain ol valvoline p/s fluid but is that right? Thanks.
  43. 1 point
    Nothing but straight off the shelf power steering fluid, Stay away from atf or Hyd. oil.
  44. 1 point
    This will show the progress in installing the Holset he351ve into my 2nd gen Cummins Second Gen Cummins should be considered 94-02 but there may be some difference depending on year. I will update as I go along. This is not dealing with the controller needed for the he351ve. The thread that covers the controller can be found here The Holset He351 ve vgt turbo was found on the Cummins 6.7 L trucks on late 3rd and 4th gen dodge trucks. It is a very tough turbo and was selected for use due to the ability to improve low throttle boost and the built in Exhaust brake. It should be good for near enough to 500 hp not to matter. Parts - HX40 style Downpipe click to go to vulcan for the part ($125) - t3 to wgmt flange adapter to mate the he351ve to the t3 exhaust manifold. ($150) - 2x he351ve turbo exhaust gaskets ($10) - 1x hx35 exhaust gasket ($5) - 4 Ft of 5/8' coolant hose for your local parts store ($10) - 5/8" oil rated hose 2' worth ($5) - 10 x 5/8" pipe clamps. - T3 oil drain ( ebay, if I was to do it again I would have gotten one with a bend in it to help with the oil drain. - 2 x 5/8" T fitting ($5) Local Parts Store - HE351Ve turbo ( $300-$600) depending on where you get it. I would suggest CumminsForum or here of course if one is for sale. - You will need some way of attaching the hotside intercooler tubes/boots to the turbo since the output from the Turbo faces forward rather than down like the 2nd gen turbos. I went with the charge tube from Stainlessdiesel.com HERE ($85) - You will need a 2.75" to 3" silicon boot reducer and clamps for this to work. There are also reports that a 45* reducing elbow will work also. unsure on that but you can try. I got min efrom www.siliconintakes.com First Specs on the Turbos LEFT Holset HX35 56/60/12 60ish lb/min vs RIGHT Holset HE351ve 60/68/3-25 69ish lb/min The Install Start pulling the old turbo off Use PB blaster or similar on the flange bolts for a few days prior to removal. Double nut the two bottom studs and remove them. Take your time use PB Blaster or similar. Bolt the adapter flange to the manifold. The short bolts go in the bottom and the long bolts with the nuts attach the top holes of the flange. You will need to use the hx35 exhaust gasket between the manifold and the first section of the Adapter plate. Next if your truck is like mine (auto) there is a hard coolant line just behind the exhaust manifold that will block the rear most bolt on the adapter flange from being used. you can see the bolt hole in question. Use the 5/8" coolant hose and a 5/8" T fitting to remove the hardline and replace it with the coolant hose. You will need to run this to just in front of the oil filter and also to the output of the coolant line from the HE351ve. Next you need to remove the old downpipe if you don't already have an HX40 style installed. this is a PITA to say the least. I had to cut mine out. The hx40 style downpipe flange will attach to the back of the he351ve without the elbow. Next it is time to pull apart the turbo into it's 3 sections. The turbo weights a lot so it is much easier to install it one section at a time. There are 2vband clamps that hold it together, one fo the compressor housing and one for the exhaust housing. Once the turbo is apart attach the other half of the flange adapter to the exhaust housing of the turbo. You will need to install one of the he351ve gaskets between the flange and the turbo. Use the long bolt for the through hole on the exhaust housing. I also had to cut one of the bolts to make it fit better. Without cutting the bolt I couldn't clock the center as nicely as I wanted. Ensure you remote the alignment dowels out of the compressor cover and exhaust housing. This will allow you to clock the turbo as you need. Once you have the flange tightly bolts to the turbo you can install the exhaust housing. ENSURE you put the last he351ve turbo gasket between the 2 sections of the adapter flange. It is somewhat hard to center it, but not impossible. Tighten down the 4 Allen head bolts supplied with the kit to hold the flanges together. You will need to tighten them very tight. In order to allow for a more vertical position of the center section I cut off the top of the strut nut. This will allow you to clock the center section of the turbo to within the 30* off vertical for the oil drain spec'd by holset. Next you need to install the Center section of the turbo. I would practice this beforehand on a bench to get the feel for it Take your time doing this as the fins on the vgt section must slide into the exhaust housing in their slots. This can be tricky, I found it best to extend the vgt all the way out and then try and sldie it in gently by rotating slightly. Here you can see the Center Section installed. Notice the clocking of the center section. You will need to loosed the oil supply line and rearrange it to make it bend nicely. Follow the hard oil drain tube down the the rubber joiner and remove the clamp holding the hard tube on. You will slip your PFE hose into the joiner and tighten it. This hose is not under pressure so you just need to ensure it is a good fit. Run your pfe hose to the oil drain on the turbo, using a hose clamp to hold it on. You can see in this picture that I just reused the OEM banjo bolts for the coolant connections. I used a hack saw to cut the braided section off so it was just a solid metal banjo bolt. I then just pushed the 5/8" coolant line over and used a hose clamp. I will do an fittings at some point, but for now this will work. Then install the Compressor cover onto the turbo. Be careful not to damage the compressor fins. Once the housing is on tighten the vband clamps tight enough to hold the housing, but not too tight as to keep you from rotating the housing. Use the preferred method of connecting the charge pipe, I choose the stainless diesel pipe and a 2.75" to 3" reducer then reused the oem 3" to 3.5" elbow at the inter cooler. Align all boots and tighten down the clamps. Once everything is lined up tighten the vband clamp so that the compressor housing can't move. Note the position of the passenger side neg battery cable to the engine block. I might have to redo this with a new longer cable, I have been meaning to anyways, but I haven't gotten to it. Hard to see in the picture but run the other coolant line into the bottom of the turbo and T into the other heater core line. Ensure you leave some space between the exhaust manifold and the coolant hose. You might use zip ties or something similar to hold the hoses together. Then install the air filter and you should be good to go. Check for any coolant or oil leaks. there you go the holset he351ve has been installed into your 2nd gen Cummins. Some Videos Exhaust brake apply at 55 in 3rd with TC locked. Turbo builds 50ish psi of backpressure quickly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyvpx-p6e5U Here you can see smoke output from standstill at %50 throttle. You can see it clears up nicely http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kx681iLXSvw Sea Level smoke at %100 throttle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rc2NSMaPYCc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m3sPPji2gs
  45. 1 point
    How to fix a leaking Cummins radiator drain plug. This is a super simple fix. Anyone with some needle nose pliers and a flat screwdriver can do it! First thing you need to do is locate it, which, if you found this article, you likely have already done. If not, it's on the bottom, drivers side of the radiator. Now you'll want to drain the radiator of all the coolant, If your fancy automatic drain valve didn't already. You can drain it into a couple jugs so you can reuse it (prepare for up to 5 gallons). I would suggest getting used to using a syphon hose out of the fill cap. The plastic drain valves are a joke. OK Now that you're ready to take it apart. Take your needle nose pliers and open the drain valve just shy of 180*. fully open is about 225*. Now wiggle it about and pull it straight out, you may need to use your screwdriver to help pry it out a little while you wiggle. OK, now it's out! you'll see an O-Ring, it is likely nicked or cut. Now you got a few options, you can buy a hole new valve (NAPA P#605-1372, AutoZone P#61134 ). Or you can just pull an O-ring out of a kit that looks about right and hope it doesn't leak... you can guess which I did! Fingers crossed! Like with any O-Ring, it's a good idea to put a little lube on to help it go in. I use petroleum jelly, but I'm sure soap would work aswell. Not to sound like a haynes repair manual, but installation really is just opposite as removal. Just make sure the "handle" on the plug is facing straight up and down. Then press into place, refill the radiator, and you're good to go! One leak free radiator drain valve coming right up! If you have any further questions, please feel welcome to ask them on the Mopar1973Man Forum.
  46. 1 point
    Heater Core Performance Before performing the following tests, refer to Cooling for the procedures to check the engine coolant level and flow, engine coolant reserve/recovery system operation, accessory drive belt condition and tension, radiator air flow and the fan drive operation. Also, be certain that the accessory vacuum supply line is connected at the engine vacuum source. Maximum Heater Output Engine coolant is delivered to the heater core through two heater hoses. With the engine idling at normal operating temperature, set the temperature control knob in the full hot position, the mode control switch knob in the floor position, and the blower motor switch knob in the highest speed position. Using a test thermometer, check the temperature of the air being discharged at the HVAC housing floor outlets. Compare the test thermometer reading to the Temperature Reference chart If the floor outlet air temperature is too low, refer to Cooling to check the engine coolant temperature specifications. Both of the heater hoses should be hot to the touch. The coolant return heater hose should be slightly cooler than the coolant supply heater hose. If the return hose is much cooler than the supply hose, locate and repair the engine coolant flow obstruction in the cooling system. Refer to Cooling for the procedures. An alternate method of checking heater performance is to use a DRBII It scan tool to monitor the engine coolant temperature. The floor outlet air temperature reading should be no more than 4.5° C (40°F) lower than the engine coolant temperature reading. Obstructed Coolant Flow Possible locations or causes of obstructed coolant flow: Faulty water pump. Faulty thermostat. Coolant temp should still reach 190-195*F for proper operation. Pinched or kinked heater hoses. Improper heater hose routing. Plugged heater hoses or supply and return ports at the cooling system connections. A plugged heater core. If proper coolant flow through the cooling system is verified, and heater outlet air temperature is still low, a mechanical problem may exist. Mechanical Problems Possible locations or causes of insufficient heat: An obstructed cowl air intake. Obstructed evaporator. Obstructed heater system outlets. A faulty, obstructed or improperly installed blend door. A faulty blower system. A faulty A/C heater control. Also, want to note that you need to pull the HVAC case completely to do the job right. I've done several heater cores for locals here and it seem fairly typical the evaporator is partially plugged up with dirt, dust, grass, pine needles, leaves, hay, etc. Heater Core Diagnostics Are you fighting to get heat from your heater in the winter time. Barely even luke warm? Well I'm going to guide you on how to resolve this issue. Heater Core Performance I hear it all the time, "If both hoses to the heater core are hot then the heater core is working good." This is totally wrong. Heater core is just minature radiator. If you check your main radiator it should be hot on the upper hose which is return from the engine and cold on the lower hose which is the return to the engine. Same this goes for heater cores. The hose from the head is the supply hot lead. Then the other hose hook to the steel tube is the return. So with just your bare hand if you grab the hot side hose it should be pretty darn hot and you shouldn't be able to hang on to that hose at full 190-195*F coolant temperature. So remember this could burn you be careful. As for the cold side hose it will be warm yet but much cooler than the supply hose it should be about 110-120*F roughly if your heater core is working well. Because your transfering the heat into the cab. If not you'll most likely end up replacing the heater core because its plugged up and both hoses are hot. Vent Temperature If the heater core is working properly you should be capable of reaching 150-160*F vent temperatures on any fan setting. Blend Door You might have to check the blend door operation. Typically with the ignition key in the ON position and the engine OFF you should be able to turn the temperature knob from cold to hot and see the stem of the blend door move. If your not seeing a good control of the cold to hot you might have to pull the stepper motor and replace the blend door stem. This is supplied from Heater Treater. This stepper motor is on the passenger side of the dash right along the transmission hump you can miss it. Coolant Condition If you got green coolant and its been over 50k miles you should consider a cooling system flush. If your using yellow or orange coolants they are rated for 100k miles typically. But I suggest you consider using coolant test strips to test the pH level of the coolant if your going for long change periods. I normal would do a full system flush with fresh water to rid the system of any corrosive coolant and any debris. Thermostat Performance I see it quite often where people post on forum where there engine temperture rarely even gets close to 190*F. This is a sign of a failed thermostat. Stock all 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Ram with Cummins should have 190*F thermostat. 180*F thermostat is not recommended. If your having problem getting to 190*F or holding 190*F coolant temperatures then the thermostat has failed. A good thermostat will typically float right around 193-197*F in normal operation. So this should be dispalyed on your gauge as being right at or just right of the 190*F mark. You can get a replacement thermostat at your local NAPA store.
  47. 1 point
    Ok you've got my attention! Let me clarify one thing ....I am Ukraine which means I am one of those people that has strong ties to Poland, Russia, etc. Now I follow and track every movement that Putin is executing at this time and I can truly say we are on the verge of WWIII. Do not mess with this bear. Observe his strategy and his mind set. Attached is an article to sum this all up. You are paying to be brainwashed by your local tv site. Shut the damn thing off, pocket the money, and learn to converse with your fellow man. There is no God in most people lives. He has been replaced with FOX,CNN,etc. Focus on Him and not the words of countless morons. Fear sells!!!!So they pour more fear on you every single day. Want a daily dose....turn the news on. But if you're in control of your life, make a positive decision for yourself and just disconnect. Now read the article and let the truth sink in. http://usdefensewatch.com/2015/11/putin-our-once-and-future-ally/
  48. 1 point
    I would agree with Moparman, the recent trend of news that travels as quickly as it does makes the world seem like a terrible place no matter the day. No doubt things are getting worse, people are angrier, etc etc, but I think a lot of that might be driven by the news. People that are wanting to be angry, or have a lot of negative thoughts they hold in will tend to grab onto anything bad going on and use it as an excuse to be who they want to be. I feel like they think to themselves " this worlds gone to crap so why should I be good?"
  49. 1 point
    Does the big fuse need to be removed to get a proper AC reading? Is this test procedure explained in my big 2 book service manual ?
  50. 0 points
    When I got the truck the fuel pump was in the fuel tank and was powered by the battery and the relay was triggered by the original connection of the ecm. When I put a fuel gauge in the truck I only had 6psi fuel pressure from idle to wot it never change so I bought a fass titanium and 1/2 inch fuel line. The pump is ran off the battery and the ecm triggers a relay and I run about 18psi. Now as for the head light problem they come on with the key on. With the key off they come on when I put the parking lights on. If I pull the head light fuse they stay on really dim. If I disconnect the day time running light module the lights go out but if I turn the head light switch on it still kills the motor if running. If I take the #1 50amp battery fuse out I can turn the light switch on with out killing the motor but the head lights are still on.Also I have no blower motor or speedo but all other gauges work and I'm not sure if the problems are all related.I am in the process of finding a good 2nd get mechanic because I think this electrical stuff is beyond me.
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