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  1. 9 likes
    Thought you might like this. It's just sweet!! MM When I was a young boy, my father had one of the first telephones in our neighborhood. I remember the polished, old case fastened to the wall. I was too little to reach the telephone, but used to listen with fascination when my mother talked to it. Then I discovered that somewhere inside the wonderful device lived an amazing person. Her name was "Information Please" and there was nothing she did not know. Information Please could supply anyone's number and the correct time. My personal experience with the genie-in-a-bottle came one day while my mother was visiting a neighbor. Amusing myself at the tool bench in the basement, I whacked my finger with a hammer, the pain was terrible, but there seemed no point in crying because there was no one home to give sympathy. I walked around the house sucking my throbbing finger, finally arriving at the stairway. Hey, the telephone! I ran for the footstool and dragged it to the landing. Climbing up, I unhooked the receiver and held it to my ear. "Information, please," I said into the mouthpiece just above my head. A click or two and a small clear voice spoke into my ear. "Information." "I hurt my finger..." I wailed into the phone, the tears came now that I had an audience. "Isn't your mother home?" came the question. "Nobody's home but me," I blubbered. "Are you bleeding?" the voice asked. "No, "I replied. "I hit my finger with the hammer and it hurts." "Can you open the icebox?" she asked. I said I could. "Then chip off a little bit of ice and hold it to your finger," said the voice. After that, I called "Information Please" for everything. I asked her for help with my geography, and she told me where Philadelphia was. She helped me with my math. She told me my pet chipmunk that I had caught in the park just the day before, would eat fruit and nuts. Then, there was the time Petey, our canary, died. I called, "Information Please," and told her the sad story. She listened, and then said things grown-ups say to soothe a child But I was not consoled. I asked her, "Why is it that birds sing so beautifully and bring joy to us, only to end up as a heap of feathers on the bottom of a cage?" She sensed my deep concern, for she said quietly, "Wayne, always remember that there are other worlds to sing in." Somehow I felt better. Another day I was on the telephone, "Information Please." "Information," said in the now familiar voice. "How do I spell fix?" I asked. All this took place in a small town in the Pacific Northwest. When I was nine years old, we moved across the country to Boston. I missed my friend very much. "Information Please" belonged in that old wooden box back home and I somehow never thought of trying the shiny new phone that sat on the table in the hall As I grew into my teens, the memories of those childhood conversations never left me. Often, in moments of doubt I would recall the sense of security I had then. I appreciated now how patient, understanding, and kind she was to have spent her time on a little boy. A few years later, on my way west to college, my plane put down in Seattle. I had about an hour between planes. I spent 15 minutes or so on the phone with my sister. Then without thinking, I dialed my hometown operator and said, "Information Please." Miraculously, I heard the small, clear voice I knew so well. "Information." I hadn't planned this, but I heard myself saying, "Could you please tell me how to spell fix?" There was a long pause. Then came the soft spoken answer, "I guess your finger must have healed by now." I laughed, "So it's really you," I said. "I wonder if you have any idea how much you meant to me during that time?" "I wonder," she said, "if you know how much your calls meant to me. I never had any children and I used to look forward to your calls." I told her how often I had thought of her over the years and I asked if I could call her again when I came back to visit my sister. "Please do," she said. "Just ask for Sally." Three months later I was back in Seattle A different voice answered, "Information." I asked for Sally. "Are you a friend?" she asked. "Yes, an old friend," I answered. "I'm sorry, but Sally died five weeks ago." Before I could hang up, she said, "Wait a minute, did you say your name was Wayne?" "Yes." I answered. “Well, Sally left a message for you in case you called. Let me read it to you.” The note said, "Tell him there are other worlds to sing in. He'll know what I mean." I thanked her and hung up. I knew what Sally meant. Never underestimate the impression you can make on others. Whose life have you touched today? Lifting you on eagle's wings. May you find the joy and peace you long for. Life is a journey, not a guided tour. Life is short; drink the good wine first.
  2. 8 likes
    I know here shortly this will be added to the article database. I just got done rebuilding the front drive shaft. Rather easy task and the parts are easy to common by even to rebuild the cardan joint ball. Also forgive me I got the camera lens greasy on my phone. Before you break down the double cardan joint mark it so you get it back together the same way. I used a file a scratch a line across all the pieces. It hard to see but there is a line across the left joint cap, the middle joint and the rear joint cap. Now using my Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press I'm simple driving the cap out the other side and disassembling the double cardan joint from the flange end working towards the shaft. When you take it all apart now check your centering ball and bearing. Mine was in sad shape. As you'll see all the needle bearing fell out (ashtray) and no grease was left. So I made a cal to the local NAPA store and they had the centering ball in stock bit pricey at $80 but I needed. It made by SKF and part number is UJ617. Now you need to clean up your old end remove all the grease and dirt. I piled up a good goob of grease in the bottom before installing the ball. Now using a socket to drive the ball into the joint end. Now drive your seal in place with the same socket just do it very light tapping with your hammer or small ball peen. Now the grease should of been shoved into the needle bearings. You notice there is a small hole for the grease to ooze out the bottom and filled the needle bearings. Now start to assemble your u-joint is the shaft. Again using a Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press which is awesome because you'll never have to strike the drive shaft with a hammer or worry about needle bearing to falling over. Now during this process the first cap I will drive too far to the other side but not out of the yoke. This is to push the cross over to the other side a bit more so when you place your other cap it already started on the cross arm and less risk of the needle bearing falling out. before driving it in place your clip on the first cap. Now I did things a bit different and assembled my last joint in the rear flange. What you have to do is place your spring in the shaft with a bit a of grease to hold it. Then tilt the ball just enough to so you can start the cross of the u-joint and the centering ball at the same time. Be patient there is enough room and it will go in. Finished product... So when you are done it should move in all directions freely without binding. Make sure to grease all your joint before installing the shaft. For the front joint I just used the vise and pump grease till the red was seen in all ends. Now install the front driveshaft... What a double cardan joint looks like moving...
  3. 8 likes
  4. 7 likes
    I think that code is a result of the ecm asking for xxx fuel, then not getting a response back from the vp44 saying " I fueled xxx" I would clean your connection to the vp44 and the ecm, use dielectric grease on the plugs. however most importanly don't park next to tyler....ever. and don't EVER connect your truck to his in any way....
  5. 6 likes
    Well, the day's finally come!!! Called and setup my appointment with Jon so he can set me up with a proper transmission! I can't wait to finally have a trans that I won't have to worry about and then I can start looking at some more power! I'll keep this thread up to date on my trip out there and try and snap a few pics here and there and then any follow on stuff once I have the trans installed.
  6. 6 likes
    Hi guys, I really appreciate the support and help with beta test. Mike's (mopar1973man) ABS issue was really helpful with improving software and upgrading couple things. Nick's (Me78569) automatic transmission testing helped to implement extra diagnostic information (transmission temperature, current gear info, OD lock etc.). David (SilverMoose) when you get it please check every possible issue and let me know what you think. I hope we can make beta version way better and useful for everyone. For the rest of you let see where we can go with it soon in the near future. Chirs O
  7. 5 likes
    I hate it when my niddels get toched.
  8. 5 likes
    Firstly can you fill out your sig so we know what you have on your truck? I can't rememeber are you still running a stock turbo??? ( please tell you aren't) Next you really should unstack the Smarty. The Smarty / Edge is a really really really really terrible stack for controlling fueling. It honestly makes more than %50 of your throttle movement %100 useless. I know you like the "butt dyno" but you are effectively just limiting how much control you have. you wouldn't buy a stereo that the volume only worked from 5-10 would you? The data logs are posted to show you how the smarty fuels... The edge is more than capable of maxing out the canbus fueling without help from the smarty. If you are dead set on running the smarty I would unplug the edge from the canbus plug and use it only for wiretap. However then you are left with a VERY expensive wiretap tuner. However since you have spent a lot of money on the edge setup I would sell the smarty. As for p0602 being related to changing the Edge's power level on the fly, the ecm has no idea the edge is there. The Edge grabs the output from the ECM then alters it and sends it on to the VP44, ECM none the wiser. The p0602 is purely related to the smarty being on the truck. Is the surge still there without the smarty loaded on the ECM? As for p7100 on a 24v and tuners??? You cannot use a tuner on a ppump, it is a mechanical injection pump. So your edge and smarty are paper weights.
  9. 5 likes
    The old saying , ''he who hesitates looses'', is not always true. He who hesitates gains more information before jumping in. That's important because there are so many advertisements that only show the nice cover. Taking time to do a little extra research/ ask questions can take time but can be well worth it.
  10. 5 likes
    let's just say between working for Lockheed Martin and purchasing a business with my brother I'm doing better than I was before! Besides, I love my big blue turd.... and it hates me.... so I give it money to make it love me back!
  11. 5 likes
    Finally got around to getting the Data logs built Catcher 9 Catcher 7 Catcher 5 SW 3 ** note that fueling never maxed out ( 4095). I did end up revving it out to 3200 and it did max out fueling. Revo SW 3 Timing 2 Duration 3 Revo SW 3 Timing 3 Duration 5 Stock To sum up my thoughts, I think that using SW3 plus revo you should be able to have a pretty good setup, still no sub fueling to keep smoke down on big injectors on WOT leaving stop light, but overall it is pretty ok. I am a little shocked that fueling on SW is not more aggressive once boost comes up, it seems that you have a real "lul" in fueling until you are really wrapping out the RPM'S Overall I think pretty much ALL of the Catcher tunes 5 - 9 are pretty much bro dozer fueling curves. I really don't like that you can max fueling at %50 throttle and under. Effectively there is no point in using 50-100% throttle. Stock injectors this really isn't a huge issue, but still makes your throttle pedal twice as senstive between 0 - 50% throttle and does absolulety nothing above that. Hopefully that helps some.
  12. 5 likes
    I think I've seen it on FB BTW @jlbayes I think they can be polished up pretty nicely! I haven't even had a chance to use the aluminum polish on the raised parts yet.
  13. 4 likes
    I added a MSD ignition system. The old distributor was shot with no vacuum advance and the timing parts drifting all over the place. The parts to rebuild it aren't in production and NOS parts are extremely expensive on eBay. The choice was either get a new Mopar electronic ignition system or an MSD. I found a good deal on the MSD kit, and it was about the same price as a Mopar kit. It has way better power now! I kinda think that the original points distributor was jumping about 3-5 degrees at idle and not advancing at higher RPM. All my old cars will have MSD distributors from here on out. Well worth every penny. All it needs is a 12v source and a ground. It came with all timing adjustment springs, bushings, the coil even came with the prong to bypass the ballast resistor. It even has a built in rev limiter! Not bad at all, especially as a factory refurb unit! Next is the right front brake, which is leaking fluid. The car stops ok, but it likely needs a cylinder or line. I am going to take a look at both wheels. The rear drums are pressed on, so I am not going to look at those til I need to. After that, new exhaust, trunk floor, seat covers, the speedo needs tuned up, window tracks need cleaned on the rear doors and I have some vacuum lines to chase down. I will rebuild the carb when I get around to it, but it runs well enough now that I am not too concerned. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4LuU_ZKMucceHJ4ZDJsLTBVcDg/view?usp=sharing
  14. 4 likes
    I'm with Mike. Not too many miles yet on this one but I towed my toyhauler to OR coast and back this week and performed flawlessly. GVW a bit over 17,000 and had the Comp on 5x5. Would bury the pyro so could only use about half throttle. I did back it off to 3 but still wanted to run over 1,300* but I haven't J-hooked the turbo yet. You WILL be happy! RR
  15. 4 likes
    Hey guys, finally signed up and donated instead of just lurking. I'm Andrew and I'm from RI. My trucks an 2001 ECSB 5 speed 4x4 SLT with a Sport conversion. 276000 miles and going
  16. 4 likes
    I just recently graduated and had the craft of scientific writing beaten into my skull only to continue using it with my job...who would have thought?! The dead pedal issue happened about 6 months ago and was taken care of by replacing the IAT sensor. I have done most of the work indeed and i did mention codes, but the lack there of. I too am wondering if my apps needs replacing but it would be odd as it is only about 6 months old as well. There seems to be a link with the apps as the truck drives completely fine except for when i am decellerating from higher speeds and the rpms get stuck at 1000 until about 15 mph where they begin to come back down to normal idle. Other than that the truck feels greeat when driving around. I like the scan gauge but i find that its very low sampling rate (i assume) makes it near useless for real time debugging. How would i check the resistance of the apps? Just hook up between the supply wire and output wire of the apps? I have all sensors plugged back in at this time. Unplugging them was only to try and facilitate some type of change in its behavior. I call it old because it has the old circuit board thats more prone to burning up (especially the big white resistors - my box only has one of tthose). Does your statement still stand, i would love to make it more badass! Im hoping to get this resolved, and i appreciate all input. Watch out now, my truck and i are both millennials and could easily be triggered by anything you say...ANYTHING!!! LOL just kidding, she's definitely a girl, just a rugged looking one...i call her gertrude. Shes not the prettiest but has a great personality...most of the time. Here she is hanging with her big sisters.
  17. 4 likes
    I think you are going to need to try and solve you problems before adding any more performance upgrades. Is the ECM you had rebuilt still under warranty? If so i would contact them and try to get another. If you cant communicate with it on your scanner that worked before that is not a good sign. As far as rebuilt vs new, new ones have not been available for a quite a while. Alternators can and are bad out of the box. It needs to be checked. Gauges are your friends. Never assume your fuel pressure is good because your system is new. A FP gauge will alert you to any problem that might arise when it arises and not after you fry a VP. With the bigger injetors and EGT gauge becomes necessary, more fuel, more heat especially with adding a tuners. Now you have more fuel, and more HP so you need more air so boost gauge is in order to monitor that. Most tuners do boost fooling which allow you put more air in the motor. You describe a vibration while free revving the engine and it continues also under load, did this start with the new injectors or the new ECM? How is your harmonic balancer? It would vibrate under both conditions. If it was the drive line it would not vibrate while free revving the engine. Never hurts to get under there a check it out.
  18. 4 likes
    I installed a vacuum operated switch ( a GM heater / AC control from a wrecking yard) years ago. The cost was $5.00 and it has worked for over 250,000 miles. I think it is the best option because it allows for easy engagement and release of the CAD with vehicle slightly rolling. I use the 2WD Low frequently and I believe this is an excellent upgrade. If you go this route, just about any automotive HVAC control with vacuum ports and a rotary control knob will work. You will need to figure out which ports will work for you - a vacuum pump with a gauge will be very helpful. You will probably need to cap off some ports to make it work. The end result is well worth the effort. - John
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  20. 3 likes
    Sorry for the delayed reply. I bought My mag pan used in excellent shape on eBay, it did have the tapped port already, not sure if previous owner did it or if it comes like that. Jon suggested Goerend flywheel because of their good rep. For $350, its cheap insurance on a $4,500 tranny...
  21. 3 likes
    There is a bug for 4.2.2 and 4.2.3 firmware right now being resolved. Then I'm working on getting the auto connect feature added along with adjusting for MPH for oversize tire trucks.
  22. 3 likes
    A converter will stall differently depending on load. However, it will fall within a general range. You can think of it as the RPM the converter changes from a turbine that converts a given torque and RPM (horsepower) to a different RPM and mathematically required torque for that RPM (think a variable gear ratio). After stall, the converter becomes must less like a turbine, and becomes closer to maintaining the same RPM. There is always some loss, turned to heat, unless you are in lockup. Old cars prior to the mid 70s didn't have lockup, and always had a few hundred or more difference in RPM after stall from the engine to the transmission input. To determine what you want requires a little thought. The basic concept is that you want to look at your power curve, turbo curve, and determine where on the RPM band you want the engine to fully load up. Examples. On a race car, you see converters up to 7000rpm or more. These allow the engine to flash to high RPM where the engine develops peak horsepower before stalling. On my truck that is built for daily driving, I wanted a stall that would load the engine at around 1300 RPM, as I felt that I had enough horsepower there to roll off the line. I don't like it as much now with my bigger turbo, and wish I had a 1700-1800 stall converter. When towing, I don't have enough torque there in first gear sometimes. The engine is held at 1200-1300 RPM which is too low for the turbo to spool without copious amounts of extra energy put into the turbo (fuel = excessive smoke). On a race truck, you might want a higher stall converter, same as the race car mentioned above. At low altitude, my setup is perfect. I don't smoke, I can run the smarty & TST stack hard enough to max my injectors flow, and it runs amazing. Once I moved back to Colorado however, I have to baby it off the line on hot days as I don't have enough smokeless power to accelerate quickly. If I had a higher stall converter, it wouldn't be a big deal. Another variable, the rest of the truck should be considered too. If I had 4:10 gears and standard tires, my lower stall converter would be just fine, as the power required to get moving with those lower gears wouldn't be as high. Last note, I have had an intermittent lockup hunting problem that I haven't yet found the fix for. The low stall converter is much less violent than a high stall when it moves in and out of lockup.
  23. 3 likes
    I have an 02, 6 spd with stock injectors and turbo and the truck has logged 270,000 miles. I started using the Smarty S03 about a year ago. I have been following this very interesting discussion and have learned quite a lot about the Smarty S03 that I didn't know. Your research and your explanation of how the fueling maxes out at 50% of throttle position on most of the SW settings (except for SW3) makes sense to me. I have only experimented with settings SW1 through SW5, but I did notice that the SW3 seem to have the smoothest and most predictable throttle response. I tried your recommended settings (TM - 3, T -1, D-5) for the last 1200 miles of driving and I liked the results. 700 hundred of those miles were towing a travel trailer (combined weight of 12,500 lbs) at 70 mph on a freeway and 60 mph on a two-lane yielding 13.5 mpg. The other 500 miles were mostly freeway with just an empty truck at 70 mph yielding 20.2 mpg. The truck performed well, both towing and empty. Thanks to you and others logging and analyzing data and sharing the information, I now have a much better understanding of how the Smarty programmer works. Thank you for sharing this information - it is very much appreciated. - John
  24. 3 likes
    Funny point that is totally against common truck thought. I totally agree with you. The auto trucks tend to be significantly faster throughout the curve as the exhaust gas energy stays higher during shifts than a similar manual where the driver has to reduce the throttle. However, the way most folks drive they can make it smoke less with a manual by only fueling heavily when the engine is at 2000 or so. Also, most automatics don't have a properly adjusted kick down.
  25. 3 likes
    Yes the blades are curved, but in todays turbos that's referred to as a straight blade turbine. The inducer side of the fins are parallel with the shaft. Looking at AH64ID's HE351 pictures above, you can see the the inducer part of the blades are curved. The straight blades make more turbulence which helps with spooling, but limits top end do to increasing the restriction. I could never keep the inducer/exducer straight either till the obvious hit me like a brick. Inducer = Intake side of the wheel. Excuder = exhaust side of the wheel. The HE351 is actually a 60/58/9. Somehow they've managed to take a crumby HY35, redesign the turbine housing and compressor wheel, and turn it into one of the best sub 500hp options to date... The Stock HX35 Turbine wheel specs at a 60/70mm, but the inducer typically measures a little shy of 70mm, so it sound like you've got a stock HX35 turbine.
  26. 3 likes
    I got impatient... I finished up the turbo bolted it on and put my stock injectors back in. Forgot what turbo whistle was all about. This turbo is just a weebit laggy with stock injectors but once the Quadzilla kick in it will pull nearly 40 PSI of boost as is. So the +75 SAC's will be an awesome upgrade to this turbo. As for the Stock HX35W it measured 54mm on the compressor. I got to admit it was kind of fun clocking the segments of the turbo again.
  27. 3 likes
    We're just bantering while we wait for Mike's updates.....
  28. 3 likes
    Mike was talking about checking his stock turbah, that's where my comment originally meant to apply.
  29. 3 likes
    So fun fact of the day, there are two different versions of the HX35. The 8 blade HX35's were 56 mm. Then, Cummins quietly switched to a 7 blade version that's actually a 54 mm inducer. I found this out the hard way when I was rebuilding my HX35 and needed a new wheel...
  30. 3 likes
    I have an 02 and an 01. I did the 2 in level to the 02 and will not do it again as it's not as simple as you think because you will need to recenter the axle with buying an adjustable trac bar then you need longer drag links on the sway bar then you need to recenter the steering wheel to it's12 o'clock position when going straight by playing with the correct adjustment. If you don't do it right you will get vibration from a misalighned front driveline. Then you need longer shocks so they don't bang on the stretch when going over speed bumps. Then when you place a load in the back the truck will look sagged so then you need air bags too. I just don't recommend it any longer.
  31. 3 likes
    Yep, sounds like a HX35/40 hybrid with a 8 blade compressor. Me thinks Mopar1973Man has caught the the power bug...
  32. 3 likes
    Like Mike said, 285's while looking super hot on a stock height dodge, don't go well with towing, I've towed with 245's 265's and 285's and the 285's were kinda miserable. By the sounds of it you have an automatic so you may even consider a 245 as that's what came stock on the older truck. This all assumes you have a 3.54 gear ratio, if you've got 4.10's, then 285's aren't a bad match. If you look under the hoot by the hood latch, it should say what gear ratio that axles are. Now for the elephant in the room... 65mph down to 45mph while staying at 2800RPM screams that your Torque Converter was unlocked. When towing that's a big no no, the TC is only about 65% efficient so only 65% of your power was going to the ground, and the other 35% was going into heat, which can fry a automatic transmission pretty quick if you're not careful. A gentleman a while back who was in similar shoes asked how to get the most out of his rig, and got some pretty decent answers, you may consider checking his thread out here. As far as EGT's. I wouldn't worry about them to much on a stock truck, we know Cummins tuned the engine so that it's basically indestructible in stock form. And their '1250°F Maximum' was a catch all rating, as long as there are no crazy flatbill mods, and RPM's are above ~2200RPM, that '1250°F' rating goes out the window. As long as it's not smoking, I could care less what EGT's are. I had my truck up past 1600°F on multiple occasions in the 2500-3400RPM range, when I pulled the head everything looked spotless. On your brakes, try applying only the trailer brakes using the controller, if the truck tries to pull to the side, then it's the trailer brakes that are causing the pull, so it's likely one side isn't applying. If it doesn't then it's likely the truck. For us 4x4 guys, on the front brake lines there's a steel bracket that holds the brake line to the frame, these brackets can rust and pinch the brake line off causing a lack of braking, and the brakes to drag. Typically though, if the brakes are making the truck pull to one side or the other, it's the rear brakes. So get yourself some Chevy wheel cylinders, and while installing, double check everything looks good, then adjust both rear brakes correctly. Sometimes you can adjust the brakes by simple going reverse at about 15-20mph and then apply the parking brake. Do this forwards and backwards a couple times and your problem may be fixed. Regardless, the Chevy wheel cylinders are a decent upgrade that help considerably. If you're wanting to up the performance, a shift kit goes a long ways in helping your auto hold the power, it raises the hydraulic line pressure which holds the clutches tighter preventing them from slipping. Here's a good auto tranny upgrade list. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-drivetrain-except-engine/452157-proper-upgrade-list-transmission.html If you play around with the 'OD Off' button, and practice trying to keep the TC locked, then you should be able to get a bit more out of your truck. For reference, with my 97 auto, full engine power was achieved by 60% throttle, so any more than that was pointless, however, if I went past 90% throttle, it would unlock the TC. So when towing up hills, I would make sure to keep it between 60% and 90% throttle to get full power without unlocking the TC. Best of luck!
  33. 3 likes
    Hey, just wanted to introduce myself, I'm from Northern Idaho and have a 2002 QCSB with a HO Cummins and 6 speed manual. I found the site looking at HID retrofits and it looked like a great community to be a part of. Attached a pic of my truck for those who want to see it.
  34. 3 likes
    @NorthernDodge ha ha, love the profile photo. Don't get me started on this subject. Around where I live, it helps to spot retards on the road. No offense to anyone that is using it for intended purpose. Ok here I go
  35. 3 likes
    Thanks ... I did not know what niddles were until you all got it fully explained. That's like the golfer who when he gets out of his new car drops golf tees onto the pavement of the gas station. Attendant who's never golfed in his life asks ,'what are those for sir?' and the golfer says,'I use those to hold my balls when driving' . Attendant says, Man what will them Ford guys think of next.
  36. 3 likes
    @crf450ish The intake valves will get that way from excess oil getting past overly worn valve guides & seals and burning on the hot valve.
  37. 3 likes
    DAP is just a vendor of Industrial Injection or Midwest Injection. Both II and MI both have Bosch 815 test stand.
  38. 3 likes
    I would error on the side of caution. Get a new VP with a warranty and drive it hard for a month without tapping the pump.
  39. 3 likes
    Top center secion all done. Hammer and dolly work and grinding complete. Sides formed and tack welded on. Finish welding those up and then onto the firewall and floor replacement!
  40. 3 likes
    OEM replacement pump @ 50k miles under warranty. Current odometer is 290k miles so that makes 240k miles on this pump still going. Personally with Blue Chip the prices are too high for used PSG units, then the pumps with new PSG are even steeper. In either case Blue Chip does not have Bosch 815 test stand to calibrate the pumps. Both Vulcan Performance and DAP both sell VP44 pump with only new PSG units and all pump are calibrated on a Bosch 815 test stand for way less money than Blue Chip.
  41. 3 likes
    Nice log. just a reminder to everyone, that the latest tunes are hosted here https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/14-2nd-generation-24-valve-tunes/ the last tune resolves a warmup bug that might cause a knock due to too little timing after 120* ect at idle.
  42. 3 likes
    @JAG1 I'm very concerned about this picture issue. We neeeeeed pictures
  43. 3 likes
    Just pulled into the drive way from a week at work. The wife calls me right when I pull of the interstate. Wants to know when I am getting home. Tell her I am 10 minutes away. Lets me know my 2 grand daughters are here and a couple of other pleasantries and the says "WE NEED TO TALK". I am going in now. Keep me in your thoughts and I hope I dont need any prayers.
  44. 3 likes
    I just shaped it by hand and used the bolts for the stock box to bolt it down. Kept it up off of everything including the AC line. I had to replace that line last summer and the replacement came bare. Had to insulate myself.
  45. 3 likes
    I'll get on it tomorrow. Had to work today and feels good getting back to a good job. Not like the last one we won't mention.. I just went and bumped the starter and heard a lift pump. When I opened the fuel cap the sound got nice and loud so it's got the in tank pump. Just as I thought... a dealership got a hold of it at one time with possible new inj. pump' Hey, I actually got the wife to go to dinner with me in it. What do you know! I turned on the heated leather seats (they look new ). So now we get there and she does not want to get off the nice warm seat. Don't try understanding anything it make you nuts
  46. 3 likes
    It doesn't need to be warm to do injectors! Run the engine until it gets to about 140*, then swap everything! It'll keep your hands warm while working on it and it'll start much easier than it would bone cold. I've done a LOT of parking lot injector changes
  47. 3 likes
    This is my mystery switch setup: 1, a momentary switch in the shifter handle, the torque convertor lock will disengaged when brake peddle is applied 2, a lock up switch on the floor(toggle switch) with no disengagement of torque convertor when brake peddle is applied 3, an annunciator light in the A post next to the trans temp gauge that illuminates when system is on.
  48. 3 likes
    I've posted an article in the 24 valve 2ed generation fuel section titled "Installing Protective Lift Pump Relay". This should help explain why a relay is needed and how to install it.
  49. 3 likes
    I will quote again from the ASTM testing labs... There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to ensure maximum fuel availability." As you'll see between winterized fuel that is high cetane vs. low cetane of the summer time... Dark green 133-134K BTU's for summer fuel at about 43 cetane. Light Green 126K BTU's for winter fuel at about 54 cetane.
  50. 3 likes
    It's curable as long as the truck has no problems otherwise it's and call Mike for the ten thousandth time. Poor guy never gets a break. Reasons I been like that..... Work truck breaks down in middle of major remodel job. Mike says injectors, so I put in new ones but it's got major fuel leaks from over tightened delivery valves back of injection pump. Now need new injection pump. Guy puts in injection pump but high pressure lines now leaking. Remove front I/P bracket to get to lines and tighten. Found front bracket put in wrong and one lost bolt in process so straighten that out. Now major idle problem with big blue smoke Go to Snap On get right tools to retime I/P. Bolts were loose holding I/P in place. Pull mechanical lift pump and find linkage broke inside. No fuel pressure. Change lift pump with same crappy pump from Cummins. Add fuel pressure gauge but dropped RPM gauge in the process so now not working. Pull cover off Turbo and look, found bad oil seal and oil going to intercooler. Pull turbo and goes to rebuilder tomorrow. Use second gen to take in Turbo and start it up since not run for a couple weeks and it's got error codes. Tell me I'm not crazy....Poor Mike I haven't left him alone with calls and it's pretty bad when your donation morphs into consultation fees.. Oh Yeah! somewhere in between all this we pulled the gear cover off andfinally tabbed the KDP at 425,000 miles only cause it needed a new crank seal. All that went very well Did I forget to tell you that I wrecked my nice Trucks antenna, using it for work by forgetting to unplug the block heater and driving off I don't think you guys will want me around at the Eclipse camp..
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