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  1. 10 points
    One person sneezes, and 40 people crap their pants!
  2. 7 points
    The main reason to use an aluminum pan is to strengthen the bottom of the case. There is literally no structure down there, and a good, heavy aluminum pan will strengthen the case by a pretty significant margin. The extra fluid capacity of a deeper pan is a nice benefit. It really doesn't matter if you have a filter extension or not. Some pans come with them, some don't. It doesn't really matter much. I don't really care how hot the fluid is getting, as long as it is being cooled by my cooling system. A good, well built torque converter, when working hard up around its stall speed will generate a lot of heat as it multiplies torque for you. Some guys like to watch the temp of the fluid coming out of the converter, and that's fine, I guess. But to me, it's fairly useless information because I know it's going to get hot (sometimes REALLY hot) while doing its job. I need to know how effectively the cooling system is removing that heat. That information comes from a probe in the pan. BTW, 157 degrees F is barely even warmed up yet. You DO need to have some temperature in the transmission. I like to see an operating range of about 150 - 190 degrees F. A transmission operating in that range is a happy transmission.
  3. 6 points
    Well with everybody retreating to the house expecting to be locked away for the next 2 months. I hope they all stocked up on birth control. Cause I think in about the 10 to12 months we will have a whole generation our hands. They wont be boomers, so lets calll them "quaranteens".
  4. 5 points
    The transmission doesn't know about, care about (unless it's slipping), or have the ability to sense how much power is coming from the engine...or Smarty settings, "TM" settings, timing adjustments, fueling curves, injector sizes, injector pop pressures...none of that. The transmission "knows" only one thing when it comes to determining when it's going to shift; TV lever position. The Smarty basically "creates" its power by advancing the OEM fuel curve so that you're getting the fuel that the OEM programming gave you at 100% throttle at much lower levels of throttle movement. How much it advances that curve will depend upon which "level" you have selected on your Smarty. Some programs also advance the injection timing, which will further exaggerate the issue. I had a Smarty on my 2000 Dodge and, quite honestly, it was one of the many things I hated about that truck. It gave the illusion of more power, but would smoke like the end of the world was coming if you weren't careful, and created a bunch of transmission tuning challenges. But, I used that truck to develop my valve body calibrations and pressure control strategies, so I guess it served its purpose. So what happens with the Smarty is that when the fuel curve is advanced like that, you will be making a considerable amount more power at a given throttle position than it used to with the OEM fueling. You may be making 100% of the power of the OEM curve, but at maybe 50% throttle movement (even less with some of the higher power levels). So the engine is producing 100% power, but the throttle (and the TV cable/lever) is only at 50% movement, so it feels like the transmission should be operating at max performance; running the shifts to near redline, and then popping into the next gear with a good, solid shift. The problem is that, at only 50% TV lever movement, it's not going to do that. So guys start messing with the TV cable, pulling them tighter trying to get their mid-throttle shifts where they feel they should be. But the TV system is designed to work properly within a pretty narrow window of adjustment. If you get it out of that window, trying to accomplish Lord knows what, pretty much everything suffers. When I'm always harping about the WOT 1-2 shift points, I'm using a quick, down-and-dirty method to get the TV system within that window of operation.
  5. 5 points
    One serious others not
  6. 5 points
    It's sad to say but most people are sheep, they see one person do something so they have to do it. Then it keeps on snowballing into a cluster **** like we have now. It's disturbing. Luckily there are still a few good folks out there, the wife saw a post on Facebook directed towards the elderly offering toilet paper to them for free from an individual that was willing to hand out from his own supply. Also, our schools in Ohio are now shut down for 3 weeks, low income families that receive free lunches for their kids were worried. The local McDonald's owner offered up free lunches to people that can't afford it. It's nice to see there is still some good people out there.
  7. 5 points
  8. 5 points
    Time to learn the corona Wipe.
  9. 4 points
    This is the latest in the government fight against the Corona Virus (covid-19). This device will fully encapsulate the head guarantying to keep your hands away from your nose, eyes, mouth, ears, or any other part of your face. This is a CDC approved protective device and will be available soon at an outlet near you . For more information call 1-800-232-4636.
  10. 4 points
    So with all this stay at home stuff, or shelter in place depending on where you live and what terminology they use, I was bored the past couple days. Yesterday we had to make a trip out so I bought the couple things I needed to do a project I've been considering. I'll let the pictures show the project The first is before pic, then after.
  11. 4 points
    Stay home, hoard TP. j/k, don’t hoard TP.
  12. 4 points
    I have seen and heard many medical expetts say washing your hands with soap and water is better than any anti bacterial hand sanitizer. We are using a water and bleach solution. 5% bleach to water on the job. The guys are using it too which surprised me a bit. I think the biggest problem right now is the fear of the unknown. It is contagious with no vaccine, and it does kill. But as mentioned above we know to what degree the infection rate compares to the death rate and may never know true nimbers. We have had a good while to study the previous ones. I have myself been thinking more about this virus along those lines since I am in the catagory that seems less able to fight it off. I need my income for another year or so but is it worth dying over? In that same breath though, the regular flu could do it too though ther are many treatments for it . I am just in that demographic. However, I am thankful to still be working. At work I am the leader, the problem solver, sometimes have to lay blame for mistakes even when its my fault and sometimes the freaking baby sitter. But it is what I get paid to do. Last time I checked I thought thats what we paid our elected officials to do. I am sick of seeing so many them just wanting to point fingers blame for the whole thing on anyone or thing but themselves. They need to put their differences aside a work together to fight this thing and get everyone back to work. There is no way you can prepare for the unkown before you know what it is. But yes somethings could have been done better but bad decsions are better than no decisions. I will stop rambling on now.
  13. 4 points
    Looks like our sports has now gone virtual, since there can't be any crowds in the wake of the outbreak, with Fox broadcasting NASCAR Pro Invitational IRacing Series from virtual Homestead-Miami speedway. I can't wait for the virtual baseball season so I can have a virtual hot dog with my virtual beer. I guess then we can go get the virtual toilet paper. https://www.foxsports.com/nascar/video/1714445891581
  14. 4 points
    Just read an article that got me thinking how merciful our Lord is and how we all need to keep the faith. I say this because of the panic over the Virus makes things much worse than the Virus. I know that statement can be severely proven otherwise in a lot of situations, but look at the folks going to lose the very shelter they need to stay healthy, lose their retirement, their livelyhood, their medical insurance and in some cases their pension if companies fold. In my estimation thy are shutting us down too hard that all the way, have greater consequences in the future. All we need is to stay a distance away from each other, wash up real good........ but........ Evan needs to wash his mouth out with soap, and ever wonder why Dripley looks so shiney lately? he uses Armor All for protection. Another point is that a medical report says most flu type infections typically taper off severely by May due to drier warmer weather. That's a good thing. Keep the faith for all of us
  15. 4 points
    I wrote up an article about this. I have the website that I bought them from. They give you all of options to choose from. Read the article, and follow it, there are parts for or trucks you can't get, so don't throw it all out first.
  16. 4 points
    My son is an ER doc in NY city on a toxicology fellowship. It's bad. It can get really bad if we don't all keep our distance from each other. It spreads easily and can cause permanent damage to your lungs even if you are young and healthy and get a mild case to a case with no symptoms. We have no immunity to it and so each person is their own lab rat. This is not something you wan to take a chance on getting if you can avoid it.
  17. 4 points
    A picture is all you need.
  18. 4 points
  19. 4 points
    Update: After a few days with the repaired abs module, the light went away. One more thing off the list
  20. 4 points
    @NIsaacs, I didn't use the 2002 inner nor did I have outer issues at all. (though I am glad you pulled that together. the taper on the 99 inner at the pitman arm is slightly longer. So I made a spacer and it works fine.) (to not run a different inner, you should be able to use the pitman that went with the original '99) I do run Chevrolet rims so the offset is a bit different, but from the pictures I have seen I agree some could be close. Though this doesn't make any sense.... 17" rims were not offered in '99.... so I don't know why Chrysler would have designed an upgraded part that couldn't be used until the new body style came out in 2003.... I did mine before there were nay sayers advising me against it.... Here is a copy of a post from Danny Gaston (Dodge off road) I'm posting this because there is a lot of misinformation on the web and I feel like the right info needs to be posted somewhere. Please do not make this thread confusing; ask unrelated questions in a new thread. EDIT: The new DOR steering kit info is added near the bottom of the post. 94 to 99 trucks have one size taper in the knuckles and pitman arm. 00 to 02 trucks have another size taper in the knuckles and pitman arm. 03 to 08 trucks have the same size taper in the knuckles and pitman arm as the 00-02 2nd gens. 08.5 to 12 trucks have the same size taper in the knuckles and pitman arm as the 00-02 2nd gens and 03-08 3rd gens. On 94 to 99 models, the distance between the knuckles is different than all other models. With all of that said, there are two "factory" HD steering options available. One is the 98 HD setup, which is very good. It converts the steering from a Y design to a T design, which means that the drag link now attaches to the tie rod in a position that is very close to the knuckle. The idea is that the less distance between the drag link and knuckle, the firmer the steering will be. It's a good idea on paper. The 98HD setup works on all 94 to 99 trucks. I will post the part numbers later. You will see people saying that they used the 98HD on their 00-02 trucks. It will fit, but the taper is smaller on the steering than the taper on the truck, so it actually doesn't sit in the taper correctly. This causes premature wear and some extra play from day one. The 00-02 trucks also use a wider knuckle-to-knuckle distance so the 98HD tie rod ends need to be threaded out more than normal. The other HD kit is the 08.5 steering upgrade, which can be used on all trucks from 2000 to 2012. This is similar to the 98HD setup in many ways (they look very similar), however it uses larger everything. The tapers, the TREs, the OD of the tube are all larger. This is the largest steering kit ever produced by Mopar. It uses 1.625" OD solid stock on the tie rod, and I believe on the drag link as well (not verified). This steering kit uses the exact same tie rod end ball, socket, taper, and thread as the earlier models (00 to 08). I cut one apart and measured it with a caliper. There is no difference at all. So while the bars themselves are much larger, the TREs are not. You will see people saying that they used this kit on their 94-99 models. Some will agree that they had to ream the knuckles out, some will say "it fit just fine." The correct answer is that the tapers are larger than the tapers on the knuckles and pitman arm, so again you don't have the proper fit. The TRE won't go in the taper all the way and even though there is enough thread to tighten the TREs down, the contact patch is not matched to the truck. You will also read that people had to shorten the tie rod end all the way or even modify it to make it fit because it was too long for their older 2nd gen. This is because it is longer than what 94-99 trucks use. So make sure you buy the right kit for your truck if you want to go this route. Keep in mind that some early 99 models may have the 98HD steering setup, depending on the date of manufacture. Dodge seems to make all of their changes in the mid year, usually after March. So there can be some exceptions to the size of the taper around 98, 99, and 2000. There are other HD steering options out there, which all have their ups and downs. Thuren Fabrication makes a really awesome crossover steering kit using heims at all four ends. The tubing is 1.5" OD .250" wall and is bent for clearance around the sway bar bracket, and clearance for the diff cover. This is the strongest kit on the market and is one of only two crossover steering setups that I'm aware of. The downside to Thuren steering is that you can't run it on trucks with factory wheels. You will read where people say it won't fit with less than 3" of lift, and this is not accurate. It's all about the wheels and clearing the bolt on the passenger side knuckle. If you have a stock truck and have aftermarket wheels that are either 17" or bigger, or offset more, then you'll be able to run this setup. But Don may tell you otherwise because there seems to be some hangup on "the truck has to be lifted 3" or more." This kit requires you to drill your knuckles and pitman arm out to 3/4" straight bores, so you cannot go back to stock steering or any other steering setup once you do this (unless you replace the pitman arm and knuckles). The other down side is that you can't run a steering stabilizer without either welding some tabs on the tie rod, or using a clamp. Don sells the clamp for $90 and DOR has it for much less if you want to buy one of ours. It's the same thing. Don's steering seen here: Pure Performance makes a really good steering kit that is also a true crossover setup, but instead of heim joints, it uses TREs. Ford TREs to be specific. This kit is only marketed for 3rd and 4th gens, however it will work on the late model 2nd gens from 2000 and up. You can buy the kit from DOR or any Pure Performance dealer, but you will need to buy all of the tie rod ends and adjusters separately unless you get it from DOR. The down side is that the kit is very expensive; about $1000 for the whole thing. The TREs and adjusters are $500 and the kit itself is $500. Pure's kit seen here: Another option I just discovered is the DT Pro Fab steering kit, which has zero info on their site. It only fits 94-99 trucks and uses large uniballs at the knuckles, and a high misalignment heim for the T-connection at the tie rod end. It appears you use the stock TRE for the pitman arm. The retail is $675 for this kit. DT Pro Fab seen here: There are other kits out there from Bulletproof Steering (the most expensive one) and other companies I can't think of right now. Shakerbuilt was one that used to be around and is now out of business. The problem with all of these options is that there is a downside to every one of them. UPDATED WITH INFO: DOR's new steering kit is definitely the best setup available, and I'll explain why. This is one of those posts where "yes I own/make the stuff but I'm typing this from an unbiased point of view" applies. So please do your own research if you feel that I'm being too much of a salesman. I'm including this much info because it's important to compare the DOR kit to other kits and understand why it's a better setup. DOR's steering kit is a totally bolt-in, drop-in setup. No drilling required. It fits all trucks from 94 to 12 and works with any lift height, any size wheel, any backspace/offset, etc. There are no exceptions to this. If you have a 94-12 Ram with a solid front axle, it works. Additionally, if you have already drilled your knuckles and pitman arm out for Thuren's kit, we can sell this in a less-expensive version where it will bolt up to the modified parts. We use a 1.5" OD 1026 DOM tube with .40" wall for the tie rod, almost twice as thick as other options. The tie rod ends are bent for clearance and this allows the tie rod itself to be totally straight, which means it can be adjusted on the truck without having to remove one side or the other. You just loosen the jam nuts and spin it in place. The drag link is made from 1.5" OD 1026 DOM tube with .25" wall, and it is also adjustable on the truck without having to remove either end. This is a huge time savings and also allows you to be much more precise than if you had to remove one end and then reinstall it. So now that the tubing is covered, let's talk about what joints we are using. The drag link uses extremely high quality FK heim joints with a 3/4" shank and 3/4" bore. These heims have a load rating of 55,696 lbs each. They are heat treated, zinc plated, and Teflon lined. I have seen these heim joints last over 5 years in daily driver applications, with zero maintenance. We use misalignment spacers on both ends to prevent the heim from binding up. One thing we did better than anyone else is put the heims in the proper orientation where they do not bind up so quickly. Most kits mount the drag link to the tie rod so that the bolt holding the heim or TRE in place is in a vertical orientation. Common sense would tell you that as the suspension moves up and down, this will eventually bind, as is the case with the Thuren steering on my truck. So by putting our heim joint where the bolt is in a horizontal orientation, now the heim never binds up. The limiting factor for the steering is the misalignment of the heim at the pitman arm, which has a 26 degree misalignment before it binds up. This is more than just about anybody can use. As an example, my truck with 14" travel coilovers and 11" of down travel will not bind these up. The drag link is where other stock kits seem to have so many problems, as I will explain at the end of this post, so we are using heim joints on both ends of the drag link similar to what Thuren does. However, ours doesn't connect directly to the knuckle, so it's not a true crossover system. This will allow the kit to fit any truck with any wheel or lift height, period. By using heims, the angle of the drag link will not be a problem for longevity of the kit. Another benefit to not mounting on the knuckle is that you can have no bumpsteer at all. One problem that some people experience with Thuren steering is that it's hard to get rid of bumpsteer. That is created when the track bar and drag link are not parallel, but also when they are not the same length. Most people don't know that. The two parts being at the same angle but in different lengths is the same thing as having a long lower arm and a short upper arm on the control arms. Your pivot points vary so the arc that they travel during the suspension cycle is different, which causes binding in the suspension and bumpsteer in the steering. Our kit is the only one on the market that makes the track bar and drag link the same angle AND the same length. Bumpsteer is completely designed out of this kit. Now the best part... the tie rod ends. These are custom made by us, in our shop. They are rebuildable, replaceable, fully awesome. There simply is not a stronger tie rod end made anywhere. We take an FK uniball assembly with a 37,000 lb radial load rating and a 7,730 lb axial load rating, that is PTFE lined and takes a 3/4" bolt, weld the housing to some 1.5" OD .250" wall DOM tubing, bend the tube to allow the tie rod itself to be offset from the knuckle to knuckle center line, and the end of the TRE is threaded so they just thread right in to the straight tie rod. The last piece of the hardware is what makes this whole thing a bolt-in, no drill install. We had some custom bolts machined for this application that allow the straight 3/4" bore of the uniballs and heims to be attached to a tapered bolt that matches the taper in the knuckles and pitman arm. These are machined from stainless steel. The retail is $599 for the full kit. There are less expensive options if you want to go with thinner wall DOM tubing or if you don't need our tapered bolts (due to having the knuckles and pitman arm drilled out to 3/4" already). With all of that said, here are some final steering design notes. I had mentioned earlier that the T-style steering is a good idea on paper. And it's true, that a T style design is better in terms of the tie rod going knuckle to knuckle instead of allowing the drag link to pull the toe in. But here's the deal - people switch to a T style and think that all of their problems are solved. In reality, people are having problems with the 98HD and 08.5 steering just like with the older Y steering. The reasons are very simple: 1) T style only references the way that the tie rod and drag link connect. Y style allows the drag link to pull the toe in as the truck's suspension droops, and push the toe out as the truck's suspension compresses. The T style eliminates this issue. You can see the difference here - notice how the T style allows the knuckles to stay connected even if the drag link is removed, where the Y style needs both the drag link and tie rod to connect the knuckles. This setup causes the toe to change as the suspension cycles. 2) Tie rod ends aren't designed to run at an angle like they are on these trucks. If you look at the drag link, even on stock trucks, the TREs on each end of the drag link are operating at an angle. They are not flat. Now add in the suspension movement and the steering box pulling back and forth, and the TREs on the drag link will simply loosen up over a period of time, more quickly than the TREs on the tie rod, which never change angles. There are a lot of different directional forces hitting these TREs all the time, but they are only designed for lateral force. This is also why the stock 2nd gen track bars suck so bad. They use a TRE in an application that it was never designed for. The tie rod end itself is fine because it never articulates, but the tie rod ends on the drag link are wearing out just as fast as before. If you look at how they mount up, you can see why. Also remember that the new "beefy" 08.5 TREs are actually the exact same size, they just look bigger due to the size of the shafts attached to them. 3) No steering kit will fix all of your problems, because there is much more to steering than just the tie rod and drag link. You also need to look at the track bar, hubs, ball joints, control arms, and of course the rest of the steering components (pitman arm, steering box, steering shaft, steering column) before diagnosing your truck as needing a new steering kit. It is easy to throw new parts on, and maybe you will get lucky and fix the right one the first time, but spending a few minutes under your truck checking for play will save you a lot of money and time. If you don't have time or the tools, then any alignment shop should be able to pinpoint the problem areas. As I have always said, don't just replace with stock parts... upgrade. You can often get a much stronger aftermarket part for the same price as a stock replacement. I will continue to update this with pictures as I have time.
  21. 3 points
    @AH64ID After spending so much time behind the wheel of an F450 Lariat pulling a 40’ triple axle lowboy all over the country doing hotshots for my friend that I became a believer in the 6.7. It has lived it’s life with a H&S 100hp tune while towing way more than we should have lol. The heaviest was just over 60k lbs, truck, trailer, and load.
  22. 3 points
    @JAG1 that chart is a guess, the guess is the shaded area in Red, the X axis is the rate of transmission y is death rate. at this point since we don't good numbers so it is either on par with the standard flu, but could be higher. The more I see the more I believe that a vast % of the population has it and only a small % are dying. If I were a betting man I am going to say this thing is on par with the flu- ish. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/high-consequence-infectious-diseases-hcid#history The diamond pricess cruise had an outbreak and full testing. 3700 total on board, 800 tested that they had it 10 died So death rate < %0.1
  23. 3 points
    That’s the most elaborate mouse trap I’ve ever seen!
  24. 3 points
    Hmm, doesn’t look like a squirrel cage.
  25. 3 points
    This article will detail my used Pacbrake install. Part numbers listed are the ones i used, unless noted, and what i know works. This can be used with vacuum or air cylinders and controlled by the Cummins ECM, a throttle switch, or manual momentary switch. As of 3-20 all parts still available from Pacbrake except the brake housing. Much of this info can be found on Pacbrake's website in PDFs L2016.pdf for brakes C14024/C14024E/C14025, and L1018.pdf parts list. Do yourself a favor, download and read both. They are linked below. If you have a manual transmission there is plenty of room around the vacuum cylinder. In automatic trucks the transmission dipstick tube will need to be bent slightly. Slide a long 1/2" extension about 8" down the tube and push it towards the driver side of the truck. It would help to have someone under the truck to hold the bottom of the tube while doing this. Bend a little at a time. It took me a couple tries to get it where i wanted it and it is a tight fit. Make sure the cylinder does not touch the tube at all. NOTE: If you are putting this on an automatic truck I highly recommend a converter lock up switch. Ibmobile has an excellent write up that will walk you through every step and works perfect. I used his write up to build mine. MY PARTS LIST: Pacbrake: Brake housing C10293 (used) $-trade Vacuum cylinder C11828 (used) $-trade Solenoid valve C11829 (new-eBay) $90.31 Superlube C18037 (new-eBay) $14.75 Amazon: 1/8" npt to 1/4" tube (air brake line) need 5. 1/4" push to connect fittings 1/8" npt muffler TE Connectivity: Terminal for Cummins ECM (5 for $2.33/free shipping) If you want a pre-terminated wire for the ECM try this: 3164263 Cummins GARAGE STASH: I keep most electrical items i used on hand but most all can be found at any auto parts house. Relay base (Amazon) Mini toggle switch (Amazon Blue LED (Amazon or eBay) 18 gauge wire, heat shrink, non-insulated connectors Zip ties Bosch relay -- resistor or diode suppressed Metal for solenoid bracket #4x1.5" machine screw/nuts for solenoid (2) Vacuum tee 1/4" vacuum hose 1/4" air brake line -- local Parker store Diode from ford crown vic under hood fuse box (photo below) VACUUM CYLINDER BRAKE W/ECM CONTROL: Disconnect both batteries. Start with brake housing (#1 in pic). It should have the bracket for the cylinder bolted to it. Butterfly must move freely. Clean as needed. Remove the 2 1/4" bolts from butterfly and 3 bolts from the cylinder bracket. Shaft and bracket must be removed and installed together. Pay attention to how the butterfly bolts to the shaft. It is not flat and must be put back together correctly. Do not force the shaft out of the housing. I had to soak and heat mine for 2 days to get it to turn. When it started moving i used an air chisel to tap it up while turning it with vise grips clamped on the lever that the cylinder attaches to. There are sealing rings on the shaft--do not damage them. Polish shaft and clean shaft holes in housing. I used fine crocus cloth and WD-40 to polish the shaft and some fine sanding drums from my porting kit to clean up the bores in the housing that the shaft rides in. I used copper anti-seize and Pacbrake Superlube to lube everything up. The shaft and bracket must be installed together. Make sure to use lock nuts on the butterfly when putting it back together. Also make sure that the butterfly does not touch the inside of the exhaust housing. It should pivot freely and not stick or rub. Blasted, polished, lubed. Make sure your cylinder doesn't leak vacuum. Mine leaked. I removed the rivets from the rear cap and it slid off. I carefully removed seals from piston, cleaned everything up and wiped seals and cylinder walls with Superlube. I do not have a source for new seals. Reassemble. No photos because I didn't think it would work but it did. Assembled, tested, working. Install brake on truck per Pacbrake instructions. Check around everything for clearance and tighten downpipe evenly. Auto trans will need dipstick tube tweaked as described above. Unbolt factory fuel filter housing from intake and move aside( do not remove fuel lines), unbolt connector from the Cummins ECM on the driver side of the block and unplug. I think it is a 4mm Allen bolt. There is a small rubber plug in the #20 ECM location. Remove it with a small pair of needle nose pliers or push it out from the inside with a paperclip. Install wire w/terminal 1062-20-0144 into location 20. Push it firmly and pull back to make sure it locked. I had to push harder than expected but it locked in nicely.Reinstall ECM connector and fuel filter housing. Mount solenoid and relay. I made a bracket from a piece of sheet metal i had and used #4 machine screws and nuts with loctite to attach the solenoid to the bracket. I used an air horn bolt and grounded both with that bolt. The solenoid and relay can be mounted anywhere thats convenient as long as you can route the vacuum lines safely. Wire relay, switch, led and solenoid to this diagram. It needs to be wired to a key on 12 volt source. If using a relay with a diode do NOT switch connections at 85 & 86. I used a diode to protect the LED from current spikes from the coil of the vacuum solenoid. I get them from the underhood fuse box of ford crown vics. I do not have a part number for it. My LED is wired to light when the brake activates. If you want it light when the switch is on connect it to load side of the switch. Hook up vacuum lines as shown below. NOTE: If you are using a DOUBLE ACTING AIR CYLINDER simply plumb your air supply into the solenoid at vacuum supply location and REVERSE lines going to the cylinder. You will probably want some kind of regulator between your air tank and the solenoid. Play with air pressure to control the moving speed of the cylinder. I do not recommend a single acting spring return cylinder with this brake housing. From my research, the brakes that use a single acting cylinder also use a spring on the exhaust housing lever. Reconnect batteries, reset APPS, and check operation. NOTE: The way above is how i wired mine. Be aware the brake will apply anytime the throttle is closed and the exhaust brake switch and key are on. There is no input from vehicle speed, gear selected or anything else. The brake opens as soon as the throttle is off idle. My mostly finished install. NOTE: The 2 following install options will work but I have not wired a truck using either of these 2 methods. The throttle switch only way will make the brake apply as soon as the throttle is at idle and the exhaust brake power switch is on. This was the 2nd option in Pacbrake's instructions. The momentary switch wiring will only work when the throttle is closed, exhaust brake power switch is on, and you manually activate the momentary switch. THROTTLE SWITCH ACTIVATION: Pacbrake throttle switch kit C11911 Plumbing is the same. Use this basic diagram. If wanted, add light at power switch or throttle switch. Instructions for adjusting throttle are in L2016.pdf from Pacbrake. MANUAL MOMENTARY SWITCH ACTIVATION W/THROTTLE SWITCH: I am recommending using the throttle switch as a safety measure in this install. This prevents brake activation with throttle open.Wiring will be same as above with the addition of a normally open momentary switch. Throttle and momentary switch must both be closed for brake to activate. The switch can be any normally open momentary switch mounted anywhere that is convenient for you. You can find foot activated exhaust brake switches if you shop around. L2016.pdf L1018.pdf
  26. 3 points
    This is frustrating. Yes, there's a chance we're all going to get it. The idea is to delay it as long as possible as to ease some of the stress on the healthcare system. Hopefully this isn't just delaying the inevitable, and buys enough time for the world to deal with this.
  27. 3 points
    Parts from Amazon finally showed up. Got it plumbed with push to connect and air brake line. Looks a little cleaner now. PARTS, PRICES, SOURCES: Exhaust housing w/vacuum cylinder: traded .40s&w ammo about $45 Vacuum solenoid: Pacbrake # C11829: eBay $90.31 Pacbrake Superlube: #C18037: eBay $14.75 Push to connect 1/4" tube to 1/8" npt 10 pack: Amazon $14.68 Quickun Air Pneumatic Mufflers, 1/8" Male Thread Sintered Bronze Exhaust Muffler Silencer (Pack of 3): Amazon $6.58 Tailonz Pneumatic 1/4 Inch od Push to Connect Fittings Pneumatic Fittings Kit 10 Spliters+10 Elbows+10 tee+10 Straight (40 pcs): Amazon $14.99 15' 1/4" Air brake line: Parker store $12.00 1/16" steel pipe plug: Parker store $1.25 Wire, relay, relay base, butt connectors, heat shrink, switch, led, sheet metal, screws, zip ties, 1/4" vacuum line, vacuum tee, I already had. Total cost was around $190.00 and a few days to get everything freed up, plumbed and wired.
  28. 3 points
    I am afraid of a recession. A lot of poor contractors in the past lost their homes and 401K. I don't want to see that again. That was terrible times last go round. Pray that the virus burns itself out, goes away quickly. We don't need to see folks going poor again, it was horrible some of the stories and guys just begging for work everywhere.
  29. 3 points
    I've been drinking apple cider vinegar nearly every morning for a while now. I'm a believer in it. Might try peroxide too if I can ever find any again. My aunt used to flush her sinuses every morning with vinegar. I'm not that tough yet. I like the way hard cider makes everything else feel good after drinking
  30. 3 points
    Hey Guys, So my old group 27 batteries finally took a dump. I left the radio on in my truck for about 2 hours while I was loading up scrap, and it was enough that after starting the truck the batteries were just beyond this. Anyways, I did some quick looking and decided to upgrade to the famed Group31's. And the results are nothing less then amazing. So not only did the truck start up super fast, but even with the grids banging away the battery voltage went from 14.0 to 12.8V with the grids going off, and you don't even hear the change in the engine or the whine of the alternator, unlike with my old group27's Anyways here is how you do it. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools you will need. 1. A dremel or a drill with a drill bit. 2. A propane/ butane torch. 3. Battery Charger 4. Line wrenches for battery cables --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Procedure 1. You pull your old batteries out. From here you will need a dremel, or a drill with a big drill bit. Either works good. 2. So first thing you need is to do is trim these notches off. If you don't the battery will not sit flat on the bottom of the tray, and this is crucial for the battery temp sensor to work correctly. And the other side 3. Start by heating up the battery box sides with a torch. Take your time, as it is better to go slow and steady then race this step. 3A You want to torch from end to end. 3B So when you torch one side so it is nice and warm and pliable, you swap to the other side, and then before you drop the battery in you re-hit the first side again for another 30-45 seconds then drop her in. To this end 4. Now torch away 5. Now after it is warm drop the battery in. 6. Let it cool down, and then pull it out. When your doing this you'll have to do this several times, its best to heat it up, and then drop it back in. 7. After each time you heat it up and drop the battery down you need to trim the plastic. Here you can see the plastic where its getting bigger. 8. Now its important to keep doing this until the battery sits on the bottom of the tray. This is the battery sensor, that my finger is on. 9. Hook up your batteries 9A. You may need to adjust the crossover cable between the two batteries in order to make the drivers side snug. 10. Use your 2/10/50 AMP battery charger to charge your batteries up. Once charged it works great. Some additional notes. 1. I had to adjust the slack on the crossover battery cable so I could get the drivers side positive terminal to fit on snug. 2. The battery hold downs do fit just fine, if you get the battery all of the way to floor. 3. There is about an inch of clearance between the top of the batteries and the hood. 4. Its best to charge your batteries until they are fully full before starting the truck for the first time. I'll update this with some videos in about a week when the weather turns. View full Cummins article
  31. 3 points
    More of this will help with that. Quiets injectors also. m
  32. 3 points
    I am still using a PacBrake that I originally bought new and put on my '99 truck when it was new. Then in late 2001, I bought the '02 truck and put the same PacBrake on the '02. It is a vacuum operated exhaust brake and I have replaced the vacuum operated cylinder twice. I have never replaced the control valve and the butterfly valve has been operating flawlessly. I have been using it for over 20 years and over 400,000 miles and it is still working fine. I know there is a PacBrake model called PRXB that is designed to produce significantly more braking power at low engine rpm's. - John
  33. 3 points
    I am not sure what the correct answer is. I think anti-seize should work fine. I think the biggest cause of an exhaust brake butterfly valve seizing is that in many applications the driver does not operate the exhaust brake frequently enough. I have a PacBrake on my truck and the PackBrake has logged over 400,000 miles - 70,000 on a previous truck, and 338,000 on my current truck. I have replaced the vacuum cylinder twice, but the butterfly valve has never stuck or become sluggish. I attribute this to the fact that I operate the exhaust brake frequently every time I drive the truck. - John
  34. 3 points
    I'm 200k on 33-35" tires with no more problems then small tires
  35. 3 points
    Getting dirt commander's mounted 576 for 285/70/17 These are a toyo mt copy Sorry for all the pics. For some reason new rubber is always exciting. Well report as miles are put on these. Stepped down a size from 285-75-17 to 285-70-17 Truck is a 3500 with 2" lift spacers to get rid of the ugly 3500 rake. If anyone's curious
  36. 3 points
    Its the switch that wont let you start your straight drive unless you push the clutch in. The 02 was the first and only truck l have ever had with one. It bothered me so I bypassed it. About a year later I reach in the window and start it. It is in reverse and starts. It takes off about 15 feet and hits the 30 yard dumpsters and pushes it off the pavement into the dirt and sits there with the rear wheels spinning when the dumpster wont move anymore. Just happy I had the hitch in the receiver or the bumper would have taken a beating.
  37. 3 points
    Just add an "add a circuit" to fuse 5 in the junction block for your gauge illumination. This fuse follows the voltage that the dimmer does on your dash lights. It will dim as the dash lights dim. 2001 FSM Ram 8W-12-9.pdf HTH Hag 2001 FSM Ram 8W-12-9.pdf
  38. 3 points
    @Southpole560 @dripley the plug is NOT 1/4" it is a metric straight thread that seals with an o ring. I hsd a hard time finding the right adapter to go to 1/8" pipe and posted the thread size and Parker part number on here somewhere. I'll try to find it and post a link. M10x1.0 thread. Part number listed is for m10 to 1/8" pipe. I used a 1/8 to 4an fitting to a braided hose to mount my oil pressure sender. Its electric and does not ground through the threads. I used a hose to keep the sender away from all the vibration might help it live longer
  39. 3 points
    Michael Nelson, IBMobile, Dieselfuture, Dripley and all of everyone on this forum...... you guys need to slow down once each day, forget about the money and the stupid clock for a moment and ask for Gods help in these matters. Mike your going to have a broken parking brake everyday unless you stop to say some prayers and learn to let it all go. You guys try steering the bull so hard, I know how it is, but just make sure your not squeezing out those important thank you moments for Him. If you can just hold a moment till you are truly thankful, asking for the help to be sincere about it and you will begin notice changes for the better. Sometimes you have to be just plain stubborn to have a little faith in spite of yourself and all human doubt. If your patient to wait on Him, never giving up hope, you will see what he wants you to see in His perfect timing and it will be good for you. Hope you don't mind I just had to seize the chance to help you guys.
  40. 2 points
    bil, Across 85/86 the voltage should vary. During cranking it should be about 6v and running it should be 12v. You don't want that to die.... that is the signal for the fuel pump from your ECM. With the key on after 2 seconds or so, there should be no power there..... only during cranking, engine running, or the 25 second time during a crank with no start. HTH Hag
  41. 2 points
    Check out my exhaust brake article. 1st article I've ever done (and redone after Mike's input). I tried to cover everything and give a few different ways to wire it up. Rebuilding an exhaust brake
  42. 2 points
    I was like sweet noones at Walmart in mtn home at 9PM last night. Well they were closed
  43. 2 points
    No but I figured most things that last come from Japan so ....
  44. 2 points
    OMG, those are Japanese beer cans. I hope the truck doesn't morph into a Honda.
  45. 2 points
    I was gonna say exactly this ^^^. There has been many debates on where to read from...pan or hot line. And there's pros and cons to each one. But I thought it best to read from the hot line...so I get the fluid temp straight out of the torque converter which is the hottest that the fluid will ever get. To me it's more of a real time reading and the gauge is more active.
  46. 2 points
    @Dynamic We trust your insights here as you have proven to be honest. We trust your bullshoot-o-meter. Thanks.
  47. 2 points
    Clean. Probably wont wash her till the next set of tires
  48. 2 points
    True. Stock turbo (54/60/12) and 150 HP injectors can be made to run with the Quadzilla. I've done it. Then upgraded to the Hybrid (60/60/12) which mildly reduced EGT's and gave a bit more power. I was still towing my 8,000 pound 31 foot RV on the stock turbo.
  49. 2 points
    No longer a paperweight! Checked power this morning at the Adrenaline plug, had power. For the heck of it, decided to see if that magically made the IQuadBT work. My phone found it, connected, and I saw info on the app gauges! I guess it took 10 times of unplugging and plugging back in to make a good connection. Possible corrosion, who knows, but it works now and I'm happy!
  50. 2 points
    It needs to be made an article, but management of everything takes time. time is someone I dont have a lot of lately.
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