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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    car club meeting last night so tossed a few parts on to show the vision...
  2. 3 points
    1 failure at 75k. New pump courtesy of Dodge. No lift pump. Did not know squat about yhe fuel system back then. I was content with the no cost to me part. 1 lift pump failure at 150k. Received the in tank pump at my cost, $1000. Thats when I realized it would not run with a failed lift pump. I do not what fuel pressures I was seeing at this time either. So began my education. About 175k started having bucking and dead pedal issues and found a low pressure issue, 5 at idle 0 at WOT. Fixed that with a booster pump and the issue cleared up but figured from what I had learned the VP had taken damage. At 217k I had a major failure that was over my head. Replced the 2nd VP at this time. Turned out to be the ECM instead. Dont how long the 2nd VP might have lasted. It saw idle pressure around 13 psi at idle on a test gauge. Now at 485k with the third pump for 268k on it. Added the AD not long after the pump install. It has seen 14+ psi almost all its life with 2 stroke oil. I have also run a good bit bio blend thru mine, 5% to 20%. The truck likes it. Though the higher blend at 20% will knock off about 1 mpg. I do believe its good for the VP but have no proof.
  3. 3 points
    1st tube ==VP 44 from left 2nd tube = Common Rail center 3rd tube == VP/CR far right 2001 Cummins engine, with a 2000 crankshaft & a 2006 Common rail head.
  4. 3 points
    I live almost next door to Eric. Been there many times. Eric is always been an honorable mention in my book from many dealings with him in the past. You would be hard pressed to be able to save money by going elsewhere for parts. If you need something custom or not available he could probably make it for you.
  5. 3 points
    Eric from Vulcan Performance answered my email and already sent right parts without extra charge. In my opinion good customer service. It takes couple of days the package to arrive to Finland. So now I have time to fix my camper shell
  6. 2 points
    @015point9 Correct. If you go straight from the battery, fuse, switch, solenoid you'll be fine. NOTHING else electronic on the circuit. My issue was i ran off a key on wire that i had a other electronic things hooked in to and the current spike from the solenoid had a direct path to the other components. If i had used a solenoid with suppression diodes that should have protected them. My post was only to inform someone like me that wanted the grid bypass switch to work in the key on position about the possibility for damage from the solenoid. I know how i am. Sooner or later i would have left that switch on and killed my batteries.
  7. 2 points
    Got up there around 12.30pm, placed the hitch in the bed and sort of lowered the trailer onto/into it to check clearances Trailer is quite a way from the back of the truck so thats all good, had maybe 4" clearance from the top of the tailgate to the underside of the pin box extension sides and I have 1 higher hole for the 5th to go up so I'll have maybe 5" or so. Got to wire in a euro 13 pin plug which is a pain and I specifically didn't go that route with my TT but I'll have to with this one I'm sure It also needs a 12v supply to it on a split charge relay so while the hitch might take me 1/2 a day to fit the electrics I can see will take longer Weight is on the truck in the 2 pictures and it just about levels it out, it does look rear down slightly but the drivers wheel is on a curb which has slightly altered the passenger wheel well gap
  8. 2 points
    The big turbo went to hell so just put It back to a single for now....have plans for a new setup but injectors were cheaper for now and in the future I’ll need bigger ones then the ones I have now.....compounds are the only way to go for sure just not in the budget right now
  9. 2 points
    OK, an up date: Had it in to the Guys at Midwest, like i said, and they did not drop it and see what was up. with in a week and about 200 mile its now shuttering in 3rd gear on deceleration. also when grabbing onto the shifter in prep to shift from third, it will come out of gear upon deceleration, before engaging the clutch ( at all speeds and rpm's, for the third gear) It just pops right out with no engagement of the clutch. I know you can time the rpm's and deceleration to shift with out engaging the clutch but this will do it with no effort, you only have to let up on the accelerator. I called Thomas Crawford in WY, and he called Scott at Midwest Trans. (Both are nice guys, so I'm not complaining) Its just no fun to re-do work for anyone. Well, I got a call from Scott at Midwest and he agree to take out the trans in a few weeks, when his shop slows down. I'm good with that, as I have customers to take care of, and i need the truck to do that. I'll let you know what comes next. (Phantom, Clutch or Transmission.)
  10. 2 points
    Because if the relay has failed it's better to know. That relay controls the power for both the transmission and the alternator. It's the feed that runs the solenoids inside the transmission for lock up.
  11. 2 points
    Yep...that's the one I had. Your assumptions are right on the money...it did drain a little slow. It did however give me enough time to drink another beer while it was draining.
  12. 2 points
  13. 1 point
    I got some bottoms and a top and modified them to all fit together with a butcher block top. I agree the color is much brighter then my older box, but it's hard to paint match in my case my old box is from 1997 so it would be expected not to match. The quality was what I expected and prices was decent, I got them at Lowes everything was on sale at some point. Top was a blemished from the kitchen area. Had to drill out a bunch of rivets to remove the top cover and some interior panels on the top to drill the sides thru, then just used the plastic rivets from our inner fenders to reassemble the cover plates. It made a nice area for my chargers as the top had a power strip built into it.
  14. 1 point
    Doesn't Fel-Pro gaskets have a regular line and also what they call a "pro line"supposed to be better or whatever??? Or maybe "pro line" is just better for sales department???
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I can understand that. I am not much of a metal fabricator. I put the lmc dash in mine 7 years ago and it still looks good. Hoping it out lasts me. The door panel I put in looks like mine did about 200k miles so hopefully it will do the same. Probably ought to buy a spare. Time will tell.
  17. 1 point
    I have the borg Warner one and the stock block and I have head mine for a while. I think the upgraded ones are worth it
  18. 1 point
    Yeap what he said ^^^^^ that's what I meant, may not came out that way though.
  19. 1 point
    No. It will fail. The measurement has to be done on a empty tank. This will be the shortest distance to the tip. Diesel weighs 6.1 pounds per gallon which is 213 pounds of fuel. This will deflect the tank bottom downward giving more gap. As the fuel is consumed the tank bottom tightens to the tip allowing to draw all the fuel from the the tank. Large notches or making too much gap gives 1/4 tank issues... Tip needs to be tight to the bottom which getting empty to get all the fuel. One quarter coin gap, 1/16 notches... Less than 1 gallon left in the tank. Notice the notch still under the fuel.
  20. 1 point
    Make sure to cut your straw on an empty as possible tank. Be a good idea to cut it 1/8 of an inch from bottom then make 1/8 by 1/4 wide gaps at bottom of straw so it never gets blocked by bottom of a tank. I personally like my draw straw5 kit it works on updated fuel modules.
  21. 1 point
    I would definitely do them all. There is a good article here on a simple way to do it.
  22. 1 point
    IMHO I believe Isspro Gauges are the most reliable. The siphon tube down the bottom won't tell you anything about what condition the screens are in. I saw one instance where the screens were clogged by some sort of residue left by the fuel. It was a varnish like coating, Other times I have seen dirt and sediments glommed onto the screens. Had to be causing a degree of fuel starvation. As the truck warms more sediment could be getting sucked into the screens the more it runs. Another item to watch is to leave the fuel cap loose when she acts up as it could be the tank vent is clogged and she is starving for fuel that way.
  23. 1 point
    It's been a while since I posted, but earlier this week I got a call from a detective with Indianapolis police department. He told me they may have found my 18ft PJ flatbed trailer that was stolen back in Dec 2009. Got the call today from him saying it was mine. She's back in the driveway, little worse for wear, but mostly functional. I'm happy that I've got it back; never figured I'd see it again, from the night I filed the police report. That being said, I'm still kinda pissed about the damage to the fenders and some other damage to the rest of the trailer. They dont know much else, I guess it was abandoned and found, but I was able to get it back. Just shy of a miracle that after almost 10 years, I got my trailer back. I did find it ironic that at some point, someone bolted weedeaters racks to it, with padlocks to keep the weedeaters locked up. Can't have someone stealing your equipment off a stolen trailer....smh
  24. 1 point
    Should be no wiring mods to the APPS wiring. Either to the signal or ground legs period. Sensor ground is NOT body ground.
  25. 1 point
    Caster angles could possibly affect the thrust angle of the truck slightly too. Might tire checking tire pressure and maybe do a tire rotation.
  26. 1 point
    Thanks Dieselfuture, yes they are defenders made in the U.S.A. Imagine that! I think I better take a second look at the front end linkages too while the wife does the wheel wiggle for me.
  27. 1 point
    It's very nice having a ready to go set of parts to bolt on. Cost vs time it's often worth while to have someone like eric gather parts
  28. 1 point
    Typical sold as a pair.
  29. 1 point
    Volvo earthmoving equipment use a nice oil drain that uses a drain adaptor to open the valve but they also use a cap which is screwed back onto the fitting for added insurance, I'd say it may be too big for the Cummins sump thread though Cat use a small tap which really does look wrong but in 40 years I've never seen one leak or come undone
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Good to know on the alternators. I’ll read up on and check the ac noise as soon as I can. Hmm I wonder why they would have wired it into the central timer... Is it bad to have the lift pump run constantly with key on? The more I did into this wiring the worse it gets. Whoever wired it made a nice mess of things. I’m thinking I’ll order a new harness from air dog and do it right. Thanks for the help you guys.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Last couple sets of new tires I have purchased have been squirly for the first 1000 miles or so but they werent michelins.
  34. 1 point
    an extra 2x worth of fueling on a stock injector truck. canbus only ( no wiretap ) is ~65hp over stock on a stock truck canbus plus wiretap is ~150-180hp over stock on a stock truck
  35. 1 point
    You got me right..... I belong to the Wood Peckers Union
  36. 1 point
    I drive over sticks and grassland.... different things so I don't want the worry of a quick easy drain down there. I ordered new drain plugs from Genos for both my 2nd gens and like the bigger socket I can use. Your right about staying away from the oil change goof balls. I've been changing my own oil ever since I was 16 and still don't mind doing it.
  37. 1 point
    I’ve read the whole post and clicked the tap on top watched the videos and read all five pages and still nothing IMG_3068.MP4
  38. 1 point
    This is it. With the beautiful truck parked in front. Thats them place. You too can own your t shirt for 20 bucks in the store.
  39. 1 point
    A beautiful sky tonight at the newly constructed Jim'N Nicks Bar-B-Q in Marietta Ga. I built something besides a chicken house and am about to go another. The first time in 21 years with this company I get build 2 of something in a row besides a CFA.
  40. 1 point
    Check this out.
  41. 1 point
    Update EGT accuracy... Lost my ISSPro EV2 probe not long ago. Replaced it with a Quadzilla probe which it worked out just fine on the ISSPro gauge but there is less offset now very close to being right on the money between the two gauges. Might be worth just say that my offset was a probe that was failing and the offset was created as the probe wore out and then failed. ISSPro EV2 Boost vs. Quadzilla MAP sensor still skewed. I've tried my old factory 2002 MAP sensor and the 2001 MAP sensor as well. No change still skewed above 30 PSI.
  42. 1 point
    I was fortunate enough to hear some war stories from my step-grandfather...only grandfather i ever knew... before he passed. He was a B-25 pilot in WWII. Im 5'4" with my work boots on. I looked down to him but he was the biggest man I've ever met. There will never be another generation like the one we are losing/have lost. These men and women should never be forgotten. WWII, Korea, Vietnam.
  43. 1 point
    @@Bullet I have new fox 2.0 shock also forgot to mention that. I recommend them btw really improved the handling. @Evan I was kinda afraid all they did was adjust the tone, but I didn't have two fancy printouts to compare. I'm going back to have the toe set to 0 or as close as possible. Is there any way to adjust the caster myself ? I kinda want to try some different degrees if say 3.8 is to loose and 4.5 is to sluggish. Without paying $90 everytime. @Royal Squire I know I guess I'll just keep rotating them more often until I get this front end nailed down.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Hey Guys, Pepsi here with another article. This one I feel is pertinent for diagnosing transmission issues. I've compiled this from a few of my articles and some more threads. I also got help from my one friend Mitch who was nice enough to copy a ATSG manual for me. ALWAYS THE FIRST STEP…. CHECK YOUR DAM FLUID! Ha, yes you guessed it most times low/high fluid levels will cause tons of issues, its best to check your fluid first. Checking your fluid can save you a ton of time and agony especially if you’re following gremlins around. So to check your fluid you must part on level ground and idle your truck in NEUTRAL not Park or any other gear. Check to make sure your fluid is between the two sets of dots, either the lower set or the upper set. Also take note one says “COLD” the other “HOT” this is in reference to your transmission temperature. It’s best to have a warm engine and warm fluid when measuring hot marks. Now that you've done this, This next section will be of use in understanding what clutches do what and when. If you identify your issue from here great if not then well get to testing pressures. Shorthanded Diagnostics… The rear clutch is applied in all forward ranges (D, 2, 1). The overrunning clutch is applied in first gear (D, 2 and 1 ranges) only. The rear band is applied in 1 and R range only. The overdrive clutch is applied only in fourth gear. However the overdrive direct clutch and overrunning clutch are applied in all ranges except fourth gear. Examples… If slippage occurs in first gear in D and 2 range but not in 1 range, the transmission overrunning clutch is faulty. Similarly, if slippage occurs in any two forward gears, the rear clutch is slipping. Applying the same method of analysis, one note that the front and rear clutches are applied simultaneously only in D range third and fourth gear. If the transmission slips in third gear, either the front clutch or the rear clutch is slipping. If the transmission slips in fourth gear but not in third gear, the overdrive clutch is slipping. By selecting another gear which does not use these clutches, the slipping unit can be determined. For another example, if the transmission also slips in Reverse, the front clutch is slipping. If the transmission does not slip in Reverse, the rear clutch is slipping. If slippage occurs during the 3-4 shift or only in fourth gear, the overdrive clutch is slipping. Similarly, if the direct clutch were to fail, the transmission would lose both reverse gear and overrun braking in 2 position (manual second gear). If the transmission will not shift to fourth gear, the control switch, overdrive solenoid or related wiring may also be the problem cause. This process of elimination can be used to identify a slipping unit and check operation. Although road test analysis will help determine the slipping unit, the actual cause of a malfunction usually cannot be determined until hydraulic and air pressure tests are performed. Practically any condition can be caused by leaking hydraulic circuits or sticking valves. Unless a malfunction is obvious, such as no drive in D range first gear, do not disassemble the transmission. Perform the hydraulic and air pressure tests to help determine the probable cause. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Line Pressure Testing OK So now comes the fun part. You will need a pair of pressure gauges. I bought a pair of cheap Home Depot 0-300 psi gauges, and used some grease gun hose and then some nylon tubing to connect the two. As you can see on this chart that it mirrors the Shorthand Diagnostics section. Clutch and Band Application Chart Shift Lever Position Transmission Clutches and Bands Overdrive Clutches Front Clutch Front Band Rear Clutch Rear band Over-running Clutch Overdrive Clutch Direct Clutch Over Running Clutch Reverse X X X Drive(1) X X X X Drive(2) X X X X Drive(3) X X X X Drive(4) X X X Man (2) X X X X X Man (1) X X X X X Using this chart we can now know which test port to use for testing. Now for the testing phase. Here we can see the locations of the test ports on your 47re. Ports 1-4 are located on the Passenger side, Port #5 is on the drivers side of the transmission above the one transmission cooler line. Preparations Required..... So in order to perform these tests you MUST jack the rear axle up so the tires are off the ground, Block the front tires, and then unhook the the TV lever from the transmission side. When testing you want to watch that the accumulator moves in a smooth fashion, and that both ports are reporting where they should be. You will leave one of the pressure gauges on at the Accumulator port through tests 1-4. NOTES: -Built automatics will see different line pressures, all line pressures are for OEM transmission's. -Built Automatics will see roughly 75-90 psi at idle, and between 120 and 170psi in gear at WOT. Reverse will be over 250psi usually. -WOT Is defined as the TV lever being moved fully rearward into the open position. You should see a smooth increase of line pressure to the maximum. Test One:[Manual 1] This test checks pump output, pressure regulation, and condition of the rear clutch and servo circuit. This test is performed in M1 at 1000 rpm. Line pressure at the accumulator port should be 54-60psi at idle, and gradually increase to 90-96 at WOT (wide open throttle). Rear servo port should have the same pressure within 3psi. Test Two:[Manual 2] This test checks pump output, line pressure and pressure regulation. This test is performed in D2 at 1000 rpm. Line pressure should be 54-60psi at idle and gradually increase to 90-96psi at WOT. Test Three: This test checks pressure regulation and condition of the clutch circuits. This test is performed in D with the O/D switch off at 1600 rpm. Line pressure at the accumulator port should be 54-60psi at idle, and gradually increase to 90-96psi at WOT. Front servo pressure should be the same within 3 psi. Test Four: This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and the front clutch and rear servo circuits. This test is performed in Reverse at 1600 rpm. Pressure at the accumulator port should be 145-175psi at idle, and gradually increase to 230-260psi at WOT. Test Five: This test checks governor operation by measuring governor pressure response to changes in vehicle speed. This test is performed in Drive between 0-30 mph. Governor pressure should be 0 psi at 0 mph, and gradually increase approx 1 psi for every 1 mph. Current Version 1.0 Written by John Armstrong Jr. 01/20/2019
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Central Axle Disconnect (CAD) System Troubleshooting 4WD dodge trucks from 94-early 02’ had a CAD system for the front axle. It messes up a lot so here is a rundown on how to track the problems. One alternative is a posi lock cable that allows you to engage the CAD manually, eliminating a lot of problems. http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/ Vacuum Lines There are 4 vacuum lines that serve a purpose for the CAD. First off is the white or grey line. This line is the supply line for vacuum. It runs from a T connector on the firewall, down to the vacuum switch located on the top of the of transfer case. Secondly is a green line. This line T’s into the transfer case vent (marked in the pic) and also goes to the vacuum switch to serve as the vacuum vent. It runs up to the firewall and has a fancy end on it that keeps dirt out. Then there are the red and black lines that control the actual CAD. I think red is for 2wd and the black controlled 4wd. They go directly from the vacuum switch to the CAD on the axle. They swap vacuum so one will have vacuum and the other will just be vented. One cause of issues can be the vacuum lines being full of mud. Blow through each one to make sure they are all clear, any connection can be pulled off, there is nothing that is permanent, if it is rubber, it can be pulled. Vacuum Switch The switch itself is very simple and merely swaps vacuum between the red and black lines. All 4 lines go onto the big black connector which will pull off of the vacuum switch. Then you will have just the switch and 4 little ½” tubes where the vacuum lines go. To ensure it is working, take the grey line out and make sure it is getting vacuum (truck must be running). Then pull the red and black lines and the red should have vacuum if it is in 2wd and when you put it in 4wd, the vacuum should switch to the black. You can pull each line out of the 5” or so black hose coming out of the switch so you can feel for vacuum there, just remember where each line went. Make sure the big black connector is not full of mud and you might have to take the vacuum switch out by unscrewing it from the transfer case, then look in it and make sure it doesn’t have mud in the 4 ports either. If it does not switch vacuum, it is junk. NAPA has them in stock as they are a common part among vehicles. CAD Vacuum Solenoid The solenoid that does the actual 4wd engaging runs by vacuum with a diaphragm that pushes or pulls the axle coupling to engage or disengage 4wd. You can take it off of the truck and hook the vacuum lines up and see if it moves in and out. It should move in and out easily by hand. If it does not move easily by hand and does not move in and out when you switch vacuum (make sure it actually has vacuum at the lines too), then it is junk and must be replaced. NAPA has those too for much cheaper than anyone else. Ebay has them for even cheaper. 4WD Light Switch The 4WD indicator light you see on your dash is ran by the switch that is in the CAD housing. When the shift fork moves forward into 4wd, the shaft presses the light switch because it is just a push button. If your light doesn’t work you can test the switch with a multimeter set on ohms. Take the electrical connector off and measure resistance. It should go to 0 (or close to it, maybe 0-10ohms) when it is in 4wd and be at infinity (open) when it is 2wd. You can do it in the truck or you can simply unscrew the switch and just press the button by hand. If it does not do that, it is junk. If I remember, this was a dealer only part. (See video at end) Shifting Fork The fork is what moves the coupling back and forth and all I wanted to mention here is that there are 2 versions of it. One is for 94-99’ 2500s, and the other is for 2000-early 2002 2500s. 1500s use the same fork but for different years.
  49. 0 points
    You need your girlfriends makeup mirror
  50. 0 points
    Sometimes ignorance is bliss. Then other times it grabs by balls.
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