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  1. 6 points
    Maybe you've followed the VP44 diagnostics instructions over at blue chip... there's a point where one of the steps involves cutting the wire for pin 5. If you really need to do that experiment, don't cut your wire. Pull the terminal. I made a tool to extract terminals from a VP44 connector. It's just a bit of brass tubing. I put it in a drill and sanded it down until it was small enough to fit into the front of the connector. You need to move the little red tabs. This releases the lock that holds the terminals. But it's not the only lock. Insert the brass tube over the front of the terminal. It should go in about 1/4" or so. The tube will cover the barbs in the terminal... releasing the second lock. Then pull out the terminal. . Good times.
  2. 5 points
    I finely found time to write the article about my version of the mystery switch. I hope someone with an automatic can benefit from it.
  3. 4 points
    I installed my "new" remanufactured ECM on my '99 CTD 4x4 this morning I had the issue of, Key on, Boot up delay. Delayed 'wait to start' light and lift pump. Ive had the problem for 4-5 years and it was getting worse, longer boot up delay So after the Install...It is working great so far. I ran a few errands and the ECM boots right up, WTS light comes on first immediately and I can immediately crank the starter and it fires up immediately. The truck actually feels alittle crisper responce too After quit a bit of research and alot of calling around, recommendations and good reviews from vendors and mechanic shops I went with a Flight Systems Remanufactured ECM who started a Partner company Reman Auto Electronics(RAE Diesel) to sell to the general public. When I called them,, several times,, they always have good tech help to answer any questions. Seemed like a good company https://www.fseg.net/ https://www.remanautoelectronics.com/ I discovered them through Gomers US Diesel Parts http://usdieselparts.com/i-22169855-ecu-ecm-98-5-99-dodge-5-9l-cummins.html and a Cummins Mechanic that recommended them So I took a chance and Ordered from RAE So far so good , For now, (cross my fingers), I Recommend them as a good place to order a ECM from, It needs a few months with no issues test....... Rick Happy Truck
  4. 4 points
    and a spare room for me to crash in while I tested about 50x different tunes and setups hahaha
  5. 4 points
    Even my 2009 CT450 Bobcat tractor with a 2.4 litre Daedong / Kioti engine is still IDI. Indirect Injection In an internal combustion engine, the term indirect injection refers to a fuel injection where fuel is not directly injected into the combustion chamber. Gasoline engines are usually equipped with indirect injection systems, wherein a fuel injector delivers the fuel at some point before the intake valve. An indirect injection diesel engine delivers fuel into a chamber off the combustion chamber, called a prechamber, where combustion begins and then spreads into the main combustion chamber. The prechamber is carefully designed to ensure adequate mixing of the atomized fuel with the compression-heated air. The purpose of the divided combustion chamber is to speed up the combustion process, in order to increase the power output by increasing engine speed. The addition of a prechamber, however, increases heat loss to the cooling system and thereby lowers engine efficiency. The engine requires glow plugs for starting. In an indirect injection system the air moves fast, mixing the fuel and air. This simplifies injector design and allows the use of smaller engines and less tightly toleranced designs which are simpler to manufacture and more reliable. Direct injection, by contrast, uses slow-moving air and fast-moving fuel; both the design and manufacture of the injectors is more difficult. The optimisation of the in-cylinder air flow is much more difficult than designing a prechamber. There is much more integration between the design of the injector and the engine. It is for this reason that car diesel engines were almost all indirect injection until the ready availability of powerful CFD simulation systems made the adoption of direct injection practical. Indirect Injection - Advantages of Indirect Injection Combustion Chambers Advantages of Indirect Injection Combustion Chambers Smaller diesels can be produced. The injection pressure required is low, so the injector is cheaper to produce. The injection direction is of less importance. Indirect injection is much simpler to design and manufacture; less injector development is required and the injection pressures are low (1500 psi versus 5000 psi and higher for direct injection) The lower stresses that indirect injection imposes on internal components mean that it is possible to produce petrol and indirect injection diesel versions of the same basic engine. At best such types differ only in the cylinder head and the need to fit a distributor and spark plugs in the petrol version whilst fitting an injection pump and injectors to the diesel. Examples include the BMC A-Series and B-Series engines and the Land Rover 2.25/2.5-litre 4-cylinder types. Such designs allow petrol and diesel versions of the same vehicle to be built with minimal design changes between them. Higher engine speeds can be reached, since burning continues in the prechamber. The Mercedes-Benz type prechamber is able to achieve over 6000rpm in a turbocharged engine. Indirect injection is superior for running on thicker vegetable oil fuel, due to lower pressure injection, a longer burn time and increased swirl ensuring more complete combustion.
  6. 4 points
    Baileys in your coffee works.
  7. 4 points
    some eye candy from my onboarding time at the mothership:
  8. 4 points
    Still need to weld on the top plates and do some more grinding but the hardest part is done.
  9. 4 points
    Made some more progress today.
  10. 3 points
    Just my experience, my box stays plugged in to a 10 amp jumper in the fuse box by the battery as well as the jumper in the cab at all times. I believe that that module has run just off of the jumper from the fuse box in the cab before and worked just fine. I had some issues with wiring when I first installed the quad and eventually ended up lengthening all of the leads and putting it inside the cab right behind the firewall. Pain in the butt, but I like the fact that it is hidden and out of the way. Anyways, because of the location I decided to plug a usb cable in and leave it that way I could flash it without having to dig under the dash. When you first plug it in to the computer the truck will act like the ignition is turned on but really doesn't do anything past that. Load the flash and you're good to go. I've done it this way for over a year now and no issues.
  11. 3 points
    A couple things I've learned. Before working on truck in winter plug in the block heater for a couple hours since its much easier to work over a warm engine than a cold engine. If your having trouble finding an air leak to the suction side of your fuel system use a shop vac to pump no more than a few pounds of pressurized air into the tank and then see if you find any weeping fuel in the lines or primary filter. A shop vac hose turned backward to blow air out will fit better to the fill neck than trying to stuff a rag around an air hose that may over pressurize. This should help you prime a fuel system as well.
  12. 3 points
    We always think the paint is going to hide more than it does. Looks real nice. L8tr D
  13. 3 points
    All in all I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. It went from an idea in my head, to a 3D drawing, then from a 4x8 sheet of steel plate to a complete bumper. This is the first time I’ve ever built something like this out of metal. Heck, it was my first time using a mig welder lol. I’m loving the new backup lights.
  14. 3 points
    The only issue I had with the luke's link on the track bar is it was too close to the front diff cover and would rub a little when bouncing around and turning, I had to grind off some material on the luke's link but seemed to fix the problem, at 300k I still got the original track bar, I installed these at about 200k
  15. 2 points
    I dont blame him, why fix what isn't broken? His injectors meet the goals of what he wants them to do. He is proud of them as he should. He shouldn't be forced to "play with stuff" America! If I want to play with this I should have to find someone willing which I did hahaha.
  16. 2 points
    Nick your theory makes sense. Would like to see more testing out there. I imagine that if you know the flow of the nozzle and the reduction in pulse width one could tune and figure out the correction factor in tuning from running 7x.010 to 7x.013. With limitations of the VP44 and other variables it would be hard to isolate it exactly. I do not believe it would be linear (which would make it easy). Wish I had a dyno here.
  17. 2 points
    Yeah if you building yourself H1 Mini's if your ordering form RetroShop do the D2S...
  18. 2 points
    I wouldn't bother with HY35 turbo too much. Yeah, the J hook can be installed but you have to limit your boost to 30-32 PSI because of the small 9cm2 housing on the exhaust side. Even HX35 would be a much better turbo allowing 35 PSI and 12cm2 exhaust housing. Better EGT's on the bigger housing but slightly more lag time.
  19. 2 points
    I wasn't really meaning to endorse those diagnostics instructions. I was just using that as an excuse to talk about one of the reasons you might want to extract pins from a VP44 connector. Nevertheless, here it is: https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html I cut my pin-5 wire, and I wish I hadn't. It didn't do me any good. So knowing how to extract a pin might save somebody some grief.
  20. 2 points
    Gypsum is main ingredient of drywall. We have used for fire protection on fire walls all my life and you will find it in safes used for the same purpose. Back early 2000's a lot of drywal boards that were imported from China contained something that emitted sulfide gasses and was bad for people and any metals it came in contact with, such as wiring, plumbing pipes and such. A lot of folks had to gut their new houses because of it. I know it got banned for import after it came to light. Google it, there is alot of info about it.
  21. 2 points
    If it's of any interest to you guys I did just get a bunch of quality information on pop pressures and the benefits and consequences of raising it. Let me know if it's pertinent or has any interest to you and I can shed some light at lunch time
  22. 2 points
    That allows air into the tank as the fuel is pulled from it. You need a vent of some sort or the tank will start to collapse and starve your fuel system.
  23. 2 points
    From what I've read, thing not connected at top works as vent on diesel and on gas line goes to charcoal filter. I put filter on mine to keep dirt out. Filter was cheap ace hardware lawn mower filter. I'm long from expert though.
  24. 2 points
    that was me. the oil pressure sensor shorted internally and caused the entire 5v system to go wacko.
  25. 2 points
    there is a build data field in the data log. that will tell you what date the flash was created on. You can't correlate to a vehicle profile as the profile is what defines sensors, but not the tuning. @Mopar1973Man I found the issue that causes the app to not connect for a prolonged period. If you key on and the app starts to connect and load the tune ( if you have the beta release of the app you can see the status bar) then you crank and for whatever reason it takes longer than a few seconds for the crank start the engine, then the tune load will stall out as power to fuse 9 is pulled during cranking and the box under the hood goes into sleep mode. If this happenes then the app goes into a weird stuck mode. If you were running the apk without the status bar you would think the app "is just not connecting" when in actually it connected, and started loading the tuning variables then power was cut and hte app got stuck in a loop waiting for hte next tuning variable. Quadzilla is aware of the bug now that they can reproduce it.
  26. 2 points
    That's the highest number a 12 bit bus can represent..... See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/12-bit You know how 1 bit binary is 0,1, where 1 is the largest number it can represent.
  27. 2 points
    Ok... I've got an ISSPro EV2 series fuel pressure gauge and got my fuel pressure gauge warning light programmed for 13 PSI. So there is my warning. As for the Quadzilla the last two trips to Ontario my morning temperature has been right around 2*F to 6*F above. Quadzilla reported between 60 and 70*F fuel temps the whole time. The only reason is I kept my stock fuel filter and the fuel heater. Even last year I had temperature as low as MINUS 35*F and never had any issues with gelling.
  28. 2 points
    The projectors sure do widen the beam though. the LEDS hot spot might be brighter but I think that is due to reflector design and intended use.
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
    I do not. Just getting enough height in them. Which after seeing Mikes pictures mine are much lower than his. Also DO NOT mess with resistors for led switch backs. Get the electronic flasher (ep27 for 98+). I use ebay cheapys. The ones I have currently. Extremely visible even with the painted housings. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Switchback-2x-3157-3357-Dual-Color-Turn-Signal-Light-High-Power-Amber-White-Led-/253293390101?hash=item3af9766915
  31. 2 points
    that's actually a smart choice lol. I've got the tools i just need the bad ECM. Here's my new to me DRBIII, just need more time to play with it.
  32. 2 points
    I'm not a believer in oil additive products. Do some research on the products. There is a lot of fixes in a bottle and rarely do any of them do as advertised.
  33. 2 points
    CCD (Chrysler Collision Detection) Data Bus The Chrysler Collision Detection (also referred to as CCD or C2D ) data bus system is a multiplex system used for vehicle communications on many Chrysler Corporation vehicles. Within the context of the CCD system, the term “collision“ refers to the system’s ability to avoid collisions of the electronic data that enters the data bus from various electronic control modules at approximately the same time.
  34. 2 points
    I have to say that bumper forms to your truck really nice.. good job
  35. 2 points
    You can also find good deals on tools at pawn shops. I got a Fluke meter for $75 at one.
  36. 2 points
    BTW, aren't you the guy that uses 4'' galv pipe and threaded couplings. for the exhaust.... I think I heard about you
  37. 2 points
    Link to the truck info: https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/143-2014-ram-2500/?show=tab_3 I'm starting this thread to keep track of everything I do to my new to me 2014 Ram 2500 Laramie. I don't have plans to go crazy with it like I did the 2nd gen. The most it'll probably ever have is a mild towing tune and deletes. How I bought it: 32K miles Completely stock engine trans. 50 gallon transferflow fuel tank in the bed, Air lift bags with in-cab controls, and a tri-fold tonneau cover. Picture from the CL ad: Pictures of the day I got it home: Big difference between 96 and 2014 I did purchase the factory style in-bed gooseneck kit last week to pull the big trailers with. It's made by Kurt, and everything seems to fit and work as it should. I've put the truck to work right away as my 2nd gen is down at the moment. 2K in the bed there (bags at 20psi) So from the pictures you can see I don't have the tractor sitting in the right spot. I was being lazy and didn't want to move the tractor after the ramps were up. The first thing I noticed is this truck easily stays level with the bags in the rear. I wouldn't be surprised if the tounge weight was around 3K+ with this load (trailer and tractor together were 13-14K) It's very different towing with an auto - I've never done it with a larger trailer. The trans seemed fine with the load though. The truck has plenty of power in 1-5 even with 3.42 gears. In 6th at 70mph it is below 1500rpm, so I kept it in 5th. The turbo spools wicked fast compared to the 2nd gen, although I can clearly feel when torque management is holding the truck back. The exhaust brake feature is awesome. I'm not sure if it works quite as well as an aftermarket one, but it held everything back pretty well. So far I'm pleased with the purchase! If anyone has questions, ask away!
  38. 2 points
    I wouldn't worry I have unplugged my box literally 1000's of times without issues. It's not a bad idea, just not really needed. I dont however know the draw of a quad box.
  39. 2 points
    It didn’t turn out as nice as I wanted due to making some mistakes along the way. I need to grind down a few welds better as the bed liner doesn’t fill in imperfections worth a dang.
  40. 2 points
    Always first things first. The only way to eat a Rhinoceros is one bite at a time.
  41. 2 points
    Here is what I've been doing... Splitting firewood, burning off my garbage pile. Funny how soaking wet bark will burn just fine with nearly 5 gallons of oil poured on the pile. That also got rid of an oil change and half for me. Nice to have the wood splitter hooked to the ATV and I dont have to pack the firewood. Then the plow blade in front will be handy later on to push the trash pile back in the fire more.
  42. 2 points
  43. 2 points
    Optimally... I would figure out the resistance the ECM needs to think there is solenoid in the system. Then you could wire up a toggle switch so the ECM sees the needed load to be happy but the solenoids are disconnected. This wouldn't require any heavy duty switch or relay then. Or you could buy a single grid heater relay and hook it up before the OEM one in the power lead and use a toggle switch for that one to connect and disconnect the power.
  44. 2 points
    Did a little bit at a time chipping away at the repair to the bobcat. Got parts in and fixed the leak. Took a bit of a learning curve on reassembly and adjustment. Got the controls neutraled out and adjusted. Stays in one spot now and the controls are like a night and day difference running them now. I still had the bobcat on jacks so i didn't get too much seat of the pants experience. I lost allot of hydraulic oil waiting for the parts to come in. Gonna have to wait until i get more oil until i feel comfortable running it again. I checked the glow plugs with the DMM and they checked out. I still need to try and get a compression test and injectors tested. I took the battery out and verified the cells and charge state. Battery was still good but i dunno for how long because no one pulled the stickers for the date codes... One thing that bugged me was at idle or upon shutdown the machine made a nasty noise that sounded mechanical. It had something to do with the engine area as it went away with throttling up. So i had an inclination it was the drive belt tensioner. Unfortunately they don't have a constant tensioner feature so to speak. Eventually it loses tension and needs adjustment. Well, i got to that point and the dang thing couldn't tension. So i pulled it and spent an hour looking at it as to why it wouldn't. I said forget it and put it back in after greasing it and tried again. Finally, it takes a 4 foot long pry bar to get it to finally move. But boy, now that it's working right im convinced its helped with the idle rpms and it doesn't make that nasty noise at idle or on shutdown. Next thing i gotta work on is wheel seal replacements. 4 of these little dreamy things to replace.... boy i can hardly wait. It seems like with me and all things i get involved in, i sure do learn allot with all these learning curves.
  45. 2 points
    Replacing Diodes and Brushes in a Denso Alternator Remove the 10mm nut at the B+ post, the three 8mm nuts and the 8mm head screw. You can use a small screwdriver and gently pry and lift the cove off. The diodes and brushes are now exposed. Remove the dust cover and four screws that hold in the brush pack assembly, lift assembly out. Remove the four Philip head screws that hold the diode/rectifier bridge in, lift diode/rectifier bridge out. Remove the one screw holding the brush pack to the brush pack assembly. Clean the slip rings with 400 grit wet/dry Assemble with new diode/rectifier bridge and brushes by reversing the disassembly steps. When installing the new brushes try holding them into the housing with a small pocket screwdriver or a feeler gauge while sliding over the slip rings. When installing the rear metal cover do not over tighter the 10mm nut for the B+ Insulator. It will crack and or brake if over tightened. Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMobile 11/18/2017
  46. 2 points
    Well, I'm back in business, a few wood projects to finish up I contracted for while between positions, but I started my new job 2 weeks ago.....at Cummins! I'm in Power Gen systems (diesel gensets), but I'm now part of a great company, with cool products! I hope to get back on the truck here in January.
  47. 2 points
    I'm kind of the same way I hate to spend large amount of money on parts I'm not certain of. I tend to come here and lean on the guys for assistance and helping me pick the right stuff. The neat part is we all learn for each other experiences and know what works and what doesn't work.
  48. 2 points
    @Dieselfuture you can also poke fun at the point he's looking like that driving a Passat...
  49. 2 points
    Think of the turbine as a lever. The longer (larger diameter turbine wheel) the lever the more leverage you have on what you are trying to move.
  50. 2 points
    Torque Converter Lockup Switch with Brake Pedal Release System What it will do This system can keep the torque converter locked in 3ed or 4th gear. With a modification to the valve body 2ed gear can be locked up. When driving normal freeway speed the torque converter can be locked up with the momentary switch and stays locked up. The transmission stays in direct drive even when the accelerator pedal is released, there is no freewheeling, RPM level is maintained and torque converter unlock is done with either pushing the momentary switch again or pressing the brake pedal. When going up long grades select 3ed gear, overdrive locked out, then lockup the torque converter with the momentary switch. I have found that by doing this I see very little rise in the transmission temperature with a decrease in exhaust temperature of 200o F. Unlocking the torque converter is done again by pressing the momentary switch or brake pedal. The trans mission will up shift from 3ed to 4th but will not down shift from 4th to 3ed with the torque converter locked. When go down a long or steep down grade the locked up torque converter will help in slowing but without the added benefit of an exhaust brake. Another switch* is incorporated in the system which will lock up the torque converter and stepping on the brake pedal will not disengage the lock up. How it works The system uses three switches, two relays and a light. The first is the momentary switch. This switch is used to signal the transistor in the switching relay to either power the coil and close the contacts allowing power to flow between pins 15 and 87 or stop the power to the coil and open the contacts. The brake light switch is three switches in one: brake lights, cruise control and anti-lock brake system. The anti-lock brake system grounds through this switch, white/pink wire, and is closed circuit until the brake pedal is depressed making it perfect for grounding terminal 85 of the switching relay. When the transistor loses its ground it turns off the power to the coil and the contacts between pins 15 and 87 open stopping current flow to the grounding relay. The 3ed switch* can either be floor mounted or dash mounted. This switch is used to energize the grounding relay and light. This keeps the torque converter locked when using the brakes. I use a floor mounted head light dimmer switch to turn it on and off. The switching relay is used to control the power to the grounding relay coil with the use of the momentary and brake light switch. This relay is used in 1981-1988 Volvo models 240 and 740 that had 5 speed manual transmissions with the overdrive 5th gear is a Laycock overdrive unit and provided power to the hydraulic solenoid. The grounding relay is used to open and close the circuit that grounds the torque convertor solenoid via the orange/black wire at PCM connector B11. Since this relay is used as only a grounding switch its power rating can be minimal. There is a light add to the system that is on anytime there is power supplied to the grounding relay and the torque converter is locked up. I used a green LED light so that the color isn’t annoying and power usage is low. Parts needed 1 overdrive relay for a Volvo manual 4 speed w/od (M46) IPD.com part# 102250 1 Bosch type/mini ISO relay terminal 87 normally open (NO) 1 12V LED light, Linrose Superbright LED Frys.com part# B2191L5 1 push button momentary switch, Phillmor Push Button green Frys.com part# 30-12634 E-Bay 1 headlight dimmer switch O’Rielly.com part # DS109 1 ½ watt 33ohm resistor NTE HW033 Frys.com part# 999026 1 fuse holder with 1-2 amp fuse 6 Scotch Lock connectors 2 #8 X 1½” self-taping sheet metal screws Solder Heat shrink tubing 1 central lock motor harness from a 1981-1993 Volvo model 240. The wire harness is found behind the center of dash. 1 overdrive relay harness from a 1982-1993 Volvo model 240 with either manual or automatic transmission. The wire harness is found above left front kick panel for manual trans or behind right center of dash for automatic trans. 1 shift lever from a 1998-2002 Dodge Ram 1500, 2500, 3500, Dakota or Durango. If you’re making the wire harness 11 solderless insulated female spade connectors .25” sized for wire gauge 3-4 solderless ring terminals sized for wire gauge and grounding screws. 18-20 AGW stranded (16 AGW will work if you can’t find smaller) in different colors. Try Home Depot or Lowes electrical department. Putting it all together Study the wiring diagram and have all of the parts in hand before starting the installation. Most of the wire length is from 6” to 2’. The wires for the light and the floor switch will be 4-5’ depending on where you put them. The wire from the grounding relay to the PCM will be about 8’. The power lead with fuse can be attached to any wire that is hot when the key is turned to the “on” position. The power draw should be between 1 and 2 amps; with the system having its own fuse, there should be no problems. Install the ½ watt 33 ohm resister between pin #87 of the grounding relay and ground by cutting the wire and soldering the resistor in place. I used the wire harnesses and relays from old Volvos that were in a wrecking yard. I modified the wire harness and added extra wire for the longer runs. An extra shift lever can be obtained at the wrecking yard for a few dollars also. Installing the momentary switch: refer to article written by Me78569 DIY- Lockup Switch install into Gear Selector Arm. This is a great how-to article on installing a momentary switch in the gear selector. If putting the switch in the gear selector arm is a bit difficult then try installing it on the steering column cove or some were on the dash board bezel that’s easily reached. You will need to remove the panel below the steering column, the dash bezel and the head light switch for the relay installation and wire routing. The left A post cover will need to be removed if the light is going to be installed there. Take your time and identify what wires are going where, think two or three times before cutting any wire. You should not have to cut any of the truck factory wires. The only wires that need to be cut are the ones you are adding. Find where you want to put the relays and LED light. I put my relays behind the bottom panel under the steering column and worked out from there. I have my LED light mounted next to my transmission temperature gauge. It’s at eye level and I just have to glance at it to see if the torque converter is locked or not. The light on JAG1’s truck was installed in the dashboard bezel between the headlights switch and instrument cluster. You will need to drill a hole through the plastic then slide the light housing into the hole and secure it with the supplied clip. Once the light is secured the wires can be connected and the bezel refitted. The 3ed switch* for energizing the grounding relay is mounted on the floor left and forward of the brake pedal in about the same spot the headlight dimmer switch was located back-in-the-day. I mounted this by putting the switch on top of the carpet and drilling through the floor pan with the self-taping sheet metal screws. A toggle or push button on/off switch could be used and installed on the dash bezel if the floor mounted switch is not to your liking. * Caution: coming to a full stop with the torque converter locked will stall the engine and could cause damage to the flex plate, input shaft or other driveline parts. Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMobile 11/12/2017
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