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  1. 6 points
    The subject matter has been discussed for years and all diesel enthusiasts/owners know how important it is to maintain proper levels of fuel pressure via the "transfer pump" or Lift Pump for reliable operation. There are many requirements that each owner/operator may wish to achieve in replacing the OE Carter or perhaps making an aftermarket selection. Notably, most have had the rude awakening of a failed VP44 following the failure of the Lift Pump in a too late scenario. The cost of a VP44 compared to the Factory (Carter) Lift Pump is considerable and many of us have learned the hard way. The general consensus among the vast majority is to eliminate the factory OE Carter pump and invest in a robust Class 8 aftermarket system. There are several companies that offer such devices with different performance levels and packaging. Many, come complete with new 1/2" fuel lines, mounting structures, fuel fittings and electrical control harnesses. Some companies offer more modest devices with a budgetary aspect at minimum level. All of this becomes apparent when a conscientious owner/operator begins the research to purchase a new device or system. I for one have stopped reading "Lift Pump" threads because it's so very painful...and I've already seen so many stories of the same old blah blah blah! No, I am not being insensitive to a fellow CTD owner's plight...after all, this is most likely a "new to Diesels" type person. The post is reaching out to the "experienced" diesel enthusiasts for suggestions and perhaps constructive feed-back, prior to making that large investment. Confidence from fellow CTD owners in what they may have purchased or installed goes a long way with the new guy or lady looking for an answer. For just a moment allow me a little latitude...Oh God! Not another Lift Pump story ...Yes but, not what you might think. This will drill-down in a different manor so, please bare with me. The factory OE "Carter" is such a little peanut-whistle why did Dodge do this? The fact is, as many know quite well, the decision was Daimler Chrysler who dictated to Cummins to provide the complete CTD engine package as a drop-in module. Carter's specifications states that, "this pump is to be located within 18 inches of the fuel supply"...it's sad to know these details greatly after the fact. This detail was covered 20 years ago on nearly every diesel website worldwide. This led to the unfortunate degradation of the Carter transfer pumps reputation. In actuality, the Carter LP (lift pump) has excellent design characteristics! At first glance the appearance seems a bit "puny" but, let's look at some of the "not so apparent features"... First of all, Carter is a very large world-wide company who provide a vast selection of produced articles. They also provide excellent technical documentation regarding the application of their products in numerous industrial devices, automotive, marine and aeronautical systems or platforms. Electro-mechanical pumps of this nature, are just a single product that they produce... In our application, CTD's are at first, supplied copious amounts of diesel fuel at acceptable levels to operate the engine and provide flow-through for critical cooling of the VP44 in return to the fuel tank. This is "how" the designed system was to perform. We know as experienced CTD owners that this was not always the case. Many of us know the error of mounting this little well designed pump nearly 10 feet forward of the fuel supply (not to specification of Carter Inc.) and ask this little pump to draw fuel through a small 1/4" line and....force the liquid through "banjo-bolt" fittings as delivery to the VP44? Wow...it's an unreasonable expectation for an electro mechanical pump, that most likely, costs less than $20 to produce in the Philippines. None the less, how many of us have had the occasional chat with a CTD owner (who knows nothing) that tells you they purchased the 2nd Gen new, he has 187K miles and has NEVER replaced the VP44 (he doesn't know what a VP44 is...you just taught him the word) and NO...he has never put a fuel pump into his truck! Yeah ! You know what I'm talking about ! How can this be ? Well...I guess some folks are a lot more lucky than I am... heck...this guy doesn't even know about 2 Stroke for lubricity,... credit our GodFather @Mopar1973Man This photo is well known as a starting point. Also, a depiction of what Cummins had to do to appease Daimler Chrysler's request of a "drop in module" CTD Okay...what is "a well designed pump"... even if it is not mounted correctly? At Carter, where they have been doing this longer than any of our familiar after-market LP suppliers... please note: 1... A fully enclosed hermetically sealed electro-machanical device that allows the liquid fuel to act as a cooling medium and fully immerses the active armature of the 12 volt DC motor to never exceed the temperature of the supplied liquid (diesel fuel)...because it is "airless" (hermetically sealed) there is no ignition to cause flammability. It's liquid cooled ! 2... The entire body or "encapsulation" as hermetic, provides absolute closure or isolation of the motor-brushes as they kiss the surface of the armature in run condition. This is very important as a DC (direct current) motor with carbon pile brushes act as a wild uncontrolled sparking noise source generator !!! This is a normal phenomena of any analog DC brushed motor. A given manufacturer of brushed DC motors, depending on purpose, will take steps to "silence" the electrical (RF noise generation)...the term "purpose" needs clarification... "if the motor is a "CCS" continuous commercial service (runs all the time) then, additional electronic filtering or "shunting" of the armature must be provided. 3... Carter Inc. employs RF Engineers (BSEE graduates minimum) to accomplish technical requirements when contracted specifications are to be adhered to for final product production. An expensive platform in any industrial production would have a string of engineers along with design engineers specking' components or assemblies that will be encapsulated within the finalized product. This occurred in "our" beloved CTD's with electro mechanical LP's....the Carter is "RF quiet" for continuous run condition. Let's examine the electronic terminals of the Carter LP Note: The plastic weather-guard assembly directly attached to the full metal housing that contains the + & - 12 volt DC ! 4... This connection point provides the direct current to power this LP. I wish you to fully understand what you're looking at. As viewed you'll note "both Plus+ and -minus" is provided at this connection point. You must also NOTE, the + and - are arriving directly from a single "pair" connection of both + & - .... I know you'll think I'm stating things "twice" and I want you to know this is an attempt to be a "balanced" feed. The housing of the pump is fully DC grounded when it is attached to the mounting bracket. In a "balanced" feed the "minus" or "negative" is NOT directly at chassis ground...it is merely + and - of the source (12 volts DC in our case) the body of the pump IS directly grounded but, the "source" is isolated from the pump body. Put your Ohm meter on either terminal and touch the pump body....there is NO direct DC continuity in a "balanced" source. This is a sexy way of making things very "quiet" electronically. Professional audio studios are fully balanced systems using "Cannon" connectors with three terminals. One is "plus" Two is "minus" and Three is "shield ground"....hence, balanced and NO Hum or Static noise. (Hey...those guys at Carter make a quiet pump...it's wimpy but, damn quiet) Okay...now let us examine what is going on internally on the back side of the connection point. A careful surgery, with hack-saw in hand, to remove the hermetically sealed body cover and expose the multi-octave filter or "shunting" design of this Carter LP. The double sided epoxy circuit board with modern surface-mount chip capacitors is excellent. This board is located directly at the input of the 12 volt source with virtually zero component lead length (surface mount) to provide shunting of the make and break contact that the brushes are doing directly at the armature when in "run" condition. This DC motor is virtually by-passed or shunted for any RF noise or "spiking" all the way passed 450 MHz! NOTE ! I did say "spiking" or should I say... "ripple"... this is a source of nasty "ripple" directly connected to the entire 12 volt DC rail of our beloved CTD's Quality engineering of analog DC motors remove such garbage before it is introduced to devices such as aircraft, fighter jets, military assault platforms, nuclear submarines and civilian automobiles. There are many preferred after market suppliers of fuel pumps or systems available and many are quite note worthy when it applies to providing solid reliable fuel flow. Many of these platforms exceed the requirements in "fuel flow" for the average diesel enthusiast. Sometimes choices are made because the owner has future plans of building enhanced performance characteristics. Some choose additional GPM for the insurance of added cooling by the "return flow" system design. All of the after market manufacturers of the upper end platforms do this with ease and price the devices accordingly. Caution in selecting any device that may cause unknown after effects in any mobile platform. The CTD 2nd Gen, is something I've looked at carefully for many years and I've made concerted efforts to correct some electrical over sites for the betterment of these noble platforms. I too have made large investments and the after market LP selections are not cheap. I was exceptionally disturbed when I successfully installed an after market LP system. The extreme effort to correctly and cleanly install the system along with all the cool JIC fittings and complete the project with pride that someone may examine my work was all accomplished. Then I shortly discovered the absolute short comings of my nearly $900 investment. I blamed myself for not test operating the device on a test bench and viewing the horrendous RF interference HASH that took out everything from 500 KHz (just below the commercial broadcast band) to well above 500 MHz. Is this important to you?... It is and perhaps it has not become apparent by the way such broadband RF interference manifests itself within a closed stand alone 12 volt system. To make these statements to you, the reader, let me be clear, I use and own a Hewlett Packard 8921A Digital RF test device, at $24,000.00 ...one must be "a fully certifiable crazy idiot" to have this along with a Tektronix 200 MHz 4 channel scope...and someone asked..."Do you need such instruments to look at $25.00 DC motors"...no but, I'm fully confident in my findings. Let's take a look at the much enhanced DC motor of an after market LP...it is irrelevant as to the manufacturer...they are all the same. This is an initial basic disassembly procedure that needs to be performed. It's very easy to accomplish. Once you have the cookie opened you'll be able to view the end-plate where the carbon brushes reside in their respective holders. Many of these devices and earlier models vary by design in physical form but, they are all the same in regard to an end-plate with brush tube holders. Here is the end-plate removed from a different LP unit and we can see the very minimal by-pass engineering of a single .47 Mfd mylar capacitor directly across the two brushes. Note, the lead length. This is typical of an inexpensive analog DC motor...I'll estimate the average wholesale cost of this to be somewhere around $10 to $15 US dollars. It would vary greatly, according to quantity buying levels. The only capacitor seen here is barley a by-pass or shunt...I'd prefer to call this a carbon brush protector. As the armature spins in normal operation, the "make" and "break" of the brushes riding against the armature where "flame" occurs...this cap is merely removing or dampening the "spark" and aiding brush-life longevity. At .47 Mfd it's really only helping at the lowest frequencies to roll off the RF spiking, also with long leads, transversing the distance between the two brushes does not help with the higher frequencies of this wild free-running spark-gap transmitter. This is a far cry from the excellent by-passing techniques incorporated into the wimpy little Carter device. Let us take a look at the fix procedure to begin " RF silencing" one of these very substantial LP platforms. We can't be as effective as the fully closed hermetically sealed package but, with careful effort you can knock this "ripple hash" down by 40db or better in just this simple step. The procedure above depicts a simple "drill and tap" technique using small machine thread hardware. 6/32 or 10/32 should suffice. You can use what ever hardware is available in your junk box as long as it is small enough to fit into the limited working space. Purchasing a small tap and companion drill at your local hardware store to match your "screw-thread pitch" is very low in cost. The skill required to do this is modest, just take your time and carefully hand-cut your threads gently. The cast aluminum end-caps are very easy to drill and tap. NO 9% IPA's should be consumed prior to drilling! Keep your hole straight and pay attention to the "depth" of your drill. With the armature removed you can "eye-in" an approximate location for the mounting hole to accommodate the miniature "lug"...this is where you make an accurate decision of the "angle" for the lug's contact arm to avoid contact with a spinning armature in "run-mode". You must also consider component "lead length"...keep this EXTREMELY short...it will be like working on a Swiss watch in confined space. NOTE: You must loctite your threads! This procedure is introducing component count within a very critical area...errors in loose components will be catastrophic !!! You will make NO errors here! Sorry...my photo is fuzzy. The photo below is zoomed-out for examination of component placement within the end-cap structure. It is tight but, it is precise and highly efficient. This depicts component selection: two each .1 Mfd silver Mica 100 volt dipped packages. I happened to have these in my junk box and standard miniature ceramic caps would also suffice. This completes the "critical" internal modification to initially "RF silence" the armature brush contact event point. I buy electronic components/parts from DigiKey or Mouser...these two capacitors will set you back about 30 cents each...your shipping cost will be ten bucks! Boy...I miss those cheesy little Radio Shacks. It was so convenient to buy little things like this for little money within my own community. Times have certainly changed. Now, carefully reassemble your enhanced LP device and mount it into it's operational nest on the vehicle. The photo below is the final step in this procedure. Again, this shunt capacitor is a .1 Mfd Orange drop package rated at 100 volts. I do prefer this package over standard Ceramic disks under the hood within engine compartments due to heat stress. These maintain tolerance over an extremely wide temperature range. The shortest leads possible, again, is the goal...the lead is directly connected to the relay socket where the 12 volts DC is connected through the relay contacts, that when "closed", provides DC excitation to the LP. I could have made these leads shorter but, I utilized the present ground on the firewall for convenience. Insert the relay back into the socket. This now completes the entire procedure. The monetary expenditure amounts to less than $1.00 for the capacitors. The time involved is substantial. The $689.00 plus dollar, advanced LP platforms available should have arrived fully prepared for trouble free installation and operation. The design engineering staff at Dailmer Chrysler would have never introduced an uncontrolled CCS constant run DC motor device into their platforms at any level. Cummins also, would have never allowed a DC pump without qualification standards to be specified for any production platform. The factory OE Lift Pump from Carter is a very under powered volumetric unit and their is no debating that short coming however: electronically it's design is superior in every aspect. The entire hermetically sealed housing acts as a complete Faraday Shield to fully encapsulate all electromagnetic static fields of force. It is a "dead silent" RF void device! This is just an example...all of the after market companies tout their prowess in delivering liquid fuel at astounding levels of performance, be it a stock engine or perhaps an extremely high horse powered competition street killing monster. None of them provide a civilized RF silenced DC motor to prevent "other" electronic automotive control elements from being harmed when operated within the confined structure of the vehicle. Note: not one bit of verbiage regarding the actual DC motor that powers the device! But, it pumps fluid like heck! I so dearly appreciate the flow factors, the filter systems, the mounting structures and comprehensive packages to alleviate all the short comings of my dismal factory transfer pump issues. Knowing well, that I'll never allow my one thousand dollar plus VP44 from ever being fuel starved again, by selecting an aftermarket LP system...only to realize afterwards, that the introduction of this major investment into my vehicle is now causing electronic issues, else where, within the vehicle! The expensive sound systems, vehicle speed sensing systems, erratic operation of TC lock-unlock, cruse control abnormalities, and radio communications equipment. All of these things at one time operated without error, you enjoyed the accurate trouble free aspects of your prized motor vehicle, then...something happened! Being cautious about adding any electronic implement into a trusted vehicle is always prudent. Asking the right questions before hand is always best practice. This information applies to ALL Vehicles regardless of manufacturer Ford, Chevy or Dodge. This article is following additional postings on this web-site...Mike Nelson @Mopar1973Man and Nick @Me78569are struggling to keep this small and independent site operational. I am not affiliated with any supplier or manufacturer...I am a contributing customer who appreciates the time proven and solid information/guidance these two men provide to the diesel community. I humbly share this knowledge with the CTD fraternity with enthusiasm, for the improvement of our platforms...may I ask a very small favor...if you find the information on this site of value could you please consider making a one dollar donation to the site to keep the lights on Thank you, Respectfully, W-T
  2. 6 points
  3. 4 points
    I'm pretty sure my truck owns me. It keeps saying please drill 2-3 shift port. I'm like shut up I'm done with you for now
  4. 4 points
    Just wanted to give you all a quick update on my truck. Got the new injectors from WiscoRedkneck, and they worked like a charm. Truck runs alot better also. Down on power obviously because of stock injectors, but it drives much, much smoother. Also starting is a dream, I barely hit the key and it lights off. Hasn't sputtered much either, just small amounts. I'm starting to think the old 150s were going out in it and it wasn't running like it should have. Still getting them rebuilt in the future, but for now I'm rolling stockish. Can't wait until my hx35 comes in finally.
  5. 4 points
    Usually threads aren't off topic till Mike posts a picture of one of his girlfriends.
  6. 3 points
    There is no time limit in Mopar land.
  7. 3 points
    I have a smaller tool box that I filled with random tools I had laying around, been in the truck for about 4 years now, used it few times and it was never for myself. Not saying that one day I won't need it, in fact the reason I put it in the back in the first place is because I was in the pinch one time and it would have been nice to have tools and tire plugs, along with an air compressor. Oh well others can benefit from it for now, maybe someday it will come in handy, but I hope not. Best thing to do is preventive maintenance and check things thoroughly every so often, then that leaves you big items like vp, water pump, alternator, any pulley that is spinning...etc. you just can't have enough parts to drive around with. But a basic tool kit that is nice to have for peace of mind, it's just where do you draw the line what to carry on board. Guns and cash will solve most of the problems
  8. 3 points
    My free time just got shorter and much less. 2012 Ram 6.7L needs an injector replaced and the 0ther 5 installed again. Waiting on a box from DAP. Then I've got a 2nd Gen that needs an oil change, fluids checked, exhaust brake looked at (sticking), and valve lash adjusted. Then in between all this, I've got a 1992 Dodge Ram 5.9L to do a fresh set of injectors (5 x 0.011) +30 HP. Waiting for a box from DAP. Free time just disappeared...
  9. 3 points
    I haven't known what free time was for the last 3 years ever since we moved to a different town and I'm still driving to same job. Everyone saying get a job closer but it's not as easy as they think. I moved up the ladder for the last 10 years, having benefits and accumulated time off is a big plus, probably the only thing holding me back at this moment and a bigger paycheck of course. Start somewhere else then start over basically, especially time off no one is giving it away. So I'd rather drive to my old job for now, although I waste 12 hours a day just to go to work. I know other people that have a worse than me so I don't complain much about it, I do mention it once in awhile as we're all human and wante decent life. Good thing you're getting random jobs to stay busy, that may actually help you keep your mind off other things temporary. I wish there was a simple answer to all this, Lottery maybe, but you need to play to win. I played for a while then I gave it up, since that I wasn't meant to have an easy way out. Everything I acquire is through blood and sweat seems like. I know they say work smarter not harder, I don't think I'm that dumb, I think it more has to do with being at the right place at the right time. I say this all the time, I'd rather be lucky then smart.
  10. 3 points
    I get ringht at 11.5 out of mine running the interstates aroind 65 mph . Grossing right at 23k like this.
  11. 3 points
    The funniest part of this story is probably all them teardrops people you were paranoid about, took off running when they heard that. Bam... Oh shi. ... drive by, take cover...
  12. 3 points
    I purchased one off of eBay, along with the Cummins / Bosch injector adapter. I think it came from India, and was very reasonably priced. However, I had to make some modifications. The gauge was crap, so I removed it and purchased one from a local ag supply store. The threads were not north american standard, so I had to get a little creative with an adapter and some JB weld, haha. All in all, I am very glad I have one, I've used it once for my Jetta TDI and several times on the Cummins. It's nice to be able to take my injectors out, re-pop, and replace in an afternoon.
  13. 3 points
    @Dieselfuture is right on the mark. With Dieselfuture... Quadzilla Adrenaline 7 x 0.010 Injectors @ 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 4 Inch exhaust BHAF 13.68 MPG towing my RV - 31 foot Jayco Eagle @ 8,000 pounds. 21.32 MPG running empty Making roughly 500 HP to the ground.
  14. 3 points
    No, most of what I use is of my own design. I use my own separator plates (laser cut specifically for me), and the hydraulics and pressure control are of my own design as well. I do use an off-the-shelf manual valve, and the PR setup is similar in design to one of the "box kits", but most of it is my own design, and the calibrations certainly are my own.
  15. 3 points
    Transmission core charge is technically $1200; $1000 for the transmission, and $200 for the freight container. Sound expensive? Remember, I don't want your core money, I want your CORE back so I can build it for the next guy! Having said that, I generally don't charge for the core on most deals. I'm kind of old school, where if you verbally tell me that you're going to send my core back, I trust you. The only ones who win by me charging your card $1200, only to refund it 2 weeks later is the bank. And the one who loses on that deal? Me... So far, I have not had any issues with transmission cores. Now converters and valve bodies? Different story... Those always get a core charge. The Stage 2 uses the stock 3.8 band lever, the Stage 3 uses a TCS 4.2 lever.
  16. 3 points
    Then others are going 46 years with the same woman. Here's to all the choices.
  17. 3 points
    Keep it simple. Doing an adjustment is a lot easier than doing a lot of rewiring. If that doesn't work you might try this.
  18. 3 points
    I think I am going to let 500k be my million. Should be able to make that just before I retire. I did clean up the valve cover and took a sander to the brushed aluminum portions and then shot a coat of clear matt finish on it.
  19. 3 points
    If mine ever makes a million I'll buy the wife an oven big enough to put the whole dang engine in
  20. 3 points
    2 reasons. One, i made the better part of 464k miles with it looking like this so I figured whats a couple hundred more. Plus the head looks pretty much like the block. I did however polish all the heads of the head bolts, bet you missed that. Two, I did buy some high heat ceramic based paint. Guess I should have read the instructions. It required 3 different bakes in the oven at different temps with cooling cycles. Everything was too big for the wifes oven. So it just went back on as it came off. I did paint the tappet cover with the paint but it would not fit either. I noticed when I was fitting the new gasket that it was scrapping the paint off. Thats my story and I'm stickin to it.
  21. 3 points
  22. 2 points
    Yep it just takes time to figure out where we gain the most with loosing the least. It's anyones guess and we will figure it out as we go.
  23. 2 points

    Type: Raffle

    COMPLETED

    • 1 Prize
    • 28 Participants

    It has been a few month since we have given anyone a chance to win something so Mopar1973man.com is raffling off a set of Diesel Auto Power injectors of your choosing up to 7 x .010's in size! Get your $5 ticket now for a chance to win. The more tickets you buy the better your odds are. We will draw one winner on 5/16/19 at 8 pm MT. You can choose either 12V injectors up to 7 x .010's or 150 HP over stock or 24v up to 7 x .010's or 150hp from Diesel Auto Power and we will have them drop shipped to you. Thanks to DAP for working with us on this raffle!
  24. 2 points
    You never gave the Quadzilla a true chance. Just expecting the "default tune" to work right out of the hole. Not the way it works. There will never be a canned tuner that will be perfect either. Being most of them are only designed for stock injectors. Like @dripley can say about +50 HP injectors and Edge Comp are smoky. Just running of the ECM stock tune is going to be pretty retarded in timing. Making it even slower.
  25. 2 points
    I read somewhere that when adjusting CANBUS fueling with with quad, throttle input changes therefore changing shifting on the trans.
  26. 2 points
    It is harder here and as you say mechanical is the easy bit as most of that can be planned for to at least keep breakdowns to an absolute minimum not so with electrics. Luckily I have breakdown recovery included with insurance but if I had a 5th wheel trailer on that breakdown deal wouldn't be worth nothing no one would recover it 😊. Another thing to consider is its only 21 so its got another 19yrs before it's mot and tax free, by that time I'll be parked in a similar hole also Is a toyota that same headache there for parts, pretty easy here. I have lots of ideas also and no spare time ☺ there's a 68 double cab w200 for sale here with a 12v but its £15 k ouch I'll keep the 24v at least till the free fuel ends though,might be worth a bit more by then
  27. 2 points
    What is that red wire that has a messy connection to the alternator output terminal? If there are more wiring connections on your truck that are done in that manner, I would be thoroughly looking over the electrical system. - John
  28. 2 points
    Wait to start should display regardless of the CCD Network as long as power is supplied to the ECM the very first instruction is the WTS light for either bulb test or fire up the grid heater. WTS is not part of the CCD network but hard-wired from the ECM to the cluster light directly. Look at the two wire maps for the Orange/Black wire. Passing thought is possibly the main fuse for the ECM and PCM being blown or fuse element cracked. Then both the ECM and PCM be without power and would not do anything.
  29. 2 points
    If your truck is a 2001 or 2002 4x4 I would recommend upgrading to the third gen brakes. Made a huge difference in braking in my 01
  30. 2 points
    That is a huge problem if alignment shop can't get it straight. I really have a hard time thinking you are going to get much farther. Being all the parts between the steering box and the wheels are on ball joints there is always going to be some rocking. Not to mention there was a recall for the T steering parts I know NAPA was one of the recall names.
  31. 2 points
    Who cares about free time. Mike you need money and you are acquiring work that will pay BILLS!
  32. 2 points
    Fix the unread content issue. I know you think it’s how they designed it, but their forum doesn’t work like this. I’ll be honest. I rarely come to the site anymore simply because of this issue. It makes searching new threads a PITA unless your doing it hourly. You want more people and repeat customers, then make it easier to search new content.
  33. 2 points
    Can’t have it all... income usually detracts from free time, and probably not the worst thing to complain about.
  34. 2 points
    Ok... How about this... Monthly $1.99, $2.99 and $5.99 Yearly $23.64 (1% save), $35,16 (2% save), $68.29 (5% save) tier 1 would be full advertising. tier 2 would be half the ads tier 3 would be ad free Small fee tune downloads seem to be working out just fine. The author takes 90% and M73M.com takes 10%.
  35. 2 points
    Unfortunately I'm not talented enough to build something like that, I had to pay for one that was already built.
  36. 2 points
    I had to visit one of the more sketchy towns nearby today...where the majority of residents have teardrop tattoos, the property values are tanked and everybody is illegally packing. I wanted to get in and out as soon as possible so on the way out I juiced up the TST and spun up the turbos up to around 55-60PSI and was sucking up pavement at a rapid rate. Shortly thereafter BOOOOOOM...I heard and felt a hell of a percussion in the truck. It sounded like a 12 gauge was fired right outside my window...and given my location was a distinct possibility. I just knew that I was today's victim of another shooting in that town. I finally unpuckered enough to notice the tremendous smoke cloud behind me and finally figured out that I had a boost boot let go. I have heard others describe it but never experienced it first hand. It scared the crap out of me to say the least. I can't believe how loud and violent it was. Luckily no damage anywhere under the hood...maybe a little to my central nervous system is all. Anybody else ever had that happen?
  37. 2 points
    It's like an emotional roller coaster. You freak out at first thinking this is gonna be expensive and then happy when you find out everything is cool...other than the shot to the ticker you just took!
  38. 2 points
    I've heard of it but never blown one yet. All I can say is I figured you needed another clean pair of shorts right?
  39. 2 points
    Just don't feed them after midnight.
  40. 2 points
    I think he's thinking about 62/68/12 or 14 that should be fine as a single or a twin I believe, I know a lot of people still use hx35 for a twin set up. But pretty sure a lot of people used 62/68/12 and that's set up also
  41. 2 points
    Just about every country in the world, other than the good old USA, haha.
  42. 2 points
    If you're at or under 400 hp, then the Stage 2 would be fine. If you're over 400 hp, you'd be on borrowed time with your stock input shaft. That is the most significant difference between the two kits; the billet input shaft in the Stage 3 kit. I would probably lean toward the Stage 3 with the mods you have listed. Yes, there is tech support for every kit we sell.
  43. 2 points
    Remember, if a salesman's lips are moving at best he shows his ignorance at worst his out right lying. If I don't fix my wife's car by the second time she tells me there's a problem she threatens to take it to the deal.
  44. 2 points
    Occurred 43 years ago today. Just had to bring it up again.
  45. 2 points
    With the fuel boss if you choose to go straight mechanical with no electric pump like @01cummins4ever ran his you can knock $50 off the GDP price since you won't need the Hobbs switch and a few less fittings. It's an easier install too. Of course if you get the big line kit too then it's $50 so it ends up a wash on the total price. I also ran mine straight mechanical with no electric pump anywhere on the truck. It has always performed flawlessly and fuel pressure has always been rock solid.
  46. 2 points
    My impression is the Fuel Boss has been out the longest of any mechanical lift pumps and there are not many complaints about them.
  47. 2 points
    Pre 1989 no OBD systems. 1989-1995 OBD1 with check engine light era where each car manufacture had their own codes and code retravel system. 1996-present OBDII codes P0100-P0999 and retrieval standardized throughout industry. OBDII codesP1000 and up are more likely to be manufacture specific.
  48. 2 points
    put your VIN at the end of this link. It will bring up a build sheet for your truck. https://www.dodge.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=
  49. 2 points
    Dodge/Cummins ECU (1998.5 - 2002 ISB) ECU Hardware There are 2 computers on the Ram. One on the passenger side firewall behind the air cleaner assembly (the Powertrain Control Module, or PCM), and the ECU, which is located on the left side of the engine, mounted directly on the engine block. The ECU is connected with a single 50-pin connector. The ECU itself is a sealed unit, with a single air vent device. It is constructed of an aluminum 'frame', or center section, that has the mounting tabs to fasten it to the engine, and a sheet aluminum 'cover', that isn't really a cover at all - the flexible plastic 'circuit board' is adhered directly to the inside of this 'cover', on both sides. There is gray silicone sealer between the 'cover' and the 'frame'. To open the ECU, one must remove the screws, and carefully pry the cover open. You must be sure to keep the cover straight and don't bend it, as the flexible circuit board is adhered directly to the inside of it. The side of the ECU with the electrical connector seems to contain power supply and other power-switching components (driver transistors, etc). I do not know if there are any ICs on this side, because I did not open mine up on that side (and at this point, I do not really want to). The other side contains the 'computer' components (processor, memory, etc) as shown below: Most of the ICs inside are standard components. There are several unidentified components: 8L12A: 8-pin IC. Possibly 12V voltage regulator for flash programming? Phillips IC, marked '4651148 005633-- Fhr011B'. Maybe analog MUX for ADC inputs? Atmel IC, marled 'ENCORE 51R42722U02 82002253-001 A9D0013 9951'. I have no idea what this is for, it looks like an ASIC. 8-pin IC marked '74690 XAVS' 8-pin IC marked '3029009 1951130'. Near the filter choke. CAN bus driver? The ECU only uses 256KB of flash, even if the installed chip is larger. The original ECU I opened had a 512KB chip (28F400). I later obtained another ECU, and discovered it had a 256KB chip (28F200). These flash chips are organized into a 16KB boot block, 2 8KB parameter blocks, and the remaining blocks are regular data blocks. The parameter blocks can sustain many more read/write cycles than the other blocks on the chip. There is 64k of RAM available, in the 2 32Kx8 SRAM chips. The memory is organized as follows: 0x000000 - 0x3FFFFF: Flash. The first 16k (0x000000 - 0x004000) is the 'boot' part of the flash chip. 0x800000 - 0x80FFFF: RAM 0xFFD000 - 0xFFD7FF: Some unknown peripheral device. Perhaps the Atmel chip? 0xFFD800 - 0xFFDFFF: Intel CAN Controller 0xFFE000 - 0xFFEFFF: TPURAM (Refer to the MC68336 manual) 0xFFF000 - 0xFFFFFF: MC68336 internal functions/integrated peripherals Software Using a BDM interface cable and driver, I wrote a program that would dump the contents of the flash chip to a file for inspection. This was difficult because every so often during the data transfer, an error would occur. I solved this problem by only reading 2KB at a time. I later found out that this read error was occurring because of a 'watchdog timer' in the ECU hardware was attempting to assert RESET while I was reading the data (because when reading through the BDM port, the CPU is stopped). Once I modified the program to do 2KB reads I was able to get a successful read of the data. I used GNU objdump to create an assembler listing of the file. I have spent many hours 'picking apart' the program to figure out what each section is for, how the peripherals of the MC68336 are configured/used, etc. There is a compressed program in the lower 16K (boot block) that gets decompressed into RAM at startup, only if certain conditions are met. This is probably a small program that is only good for reading the CAN bus, so that the flash can be reprogrammed. I have not spent much time examining this program. The VIN of the vehicle is embedded in data around 0x4000, and again around 0x8000. There is also a 'signature' around 0x8000 that is checked at startup, and if it is valid, an address is read from location 0x800a and execution of the 'main' startup code continues at that address. There is a considerable amount of data that gets moved from the end of the flash data into RAM at startup. In this example, the data begins at 0x3829e and ends at 0x3fee7. That is approx. 32KB of data. At this time, I have only been able to identify the startup code, where the various components are initialized and addresses are set up, and parts of the program that read/write the CAN messages. The following things need to be done: Identify the CAN messages themselves, the message contents, and what they mean. Identify which inputs connect to where (temp sensors, MAP, APPS, etc). Identify the other outputs and what ports they are located (Wait to start lamp, VP44 relay, fuel pump relay, intake heaters, etc.) Determine how the flash can be programmed by methods other than desoldering the chip from the board Identify the remaining program sections, and their assocaited data (the 'maps') It would probably be useful to build a CAN interface for my PC, and 'watch' the data on the CAN bus while the engine is in operation. This might yield some information that can be used to identify more of the program. Other information It appears that the ECU itself was designed (and possibly manufactured) by Motorola. The ECU software, is unknown. There is no copyright message or any other identifying information in the dump of the flash memory, except the VIN number and the string '091197'. I do not know what language the program was originally written in, probably C, I really don't think something that large would be written in assembly language. Why? Because it is my truck, my ECU, my flash memory chip, etc. and I have a right to know how it works. And I also have the right to do what I want with it, whether that be drive it, or take the ECU out, sprinkle cheddar cheese on it and bake it in the oven, etc. I think people should be able to understand, and repair if necessary, anything that they own, whether it be a computer, a car, a dishwasher, or a bike.
  50. 2 points
    After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally finds a morsel of cheese. Again, as it is well known @Mopar1973Man was the only entity who positively identified the instigating source of this key issue. My entry today is not about alternators...it is about what Daimler/Chrysler did in regard to production of these Cummins powered platforms and the complete disregard of common sense Electronic Engineering. Please note, this applies to automatic and manual transmissions as each platform is plagued in the same manor with different quirks. This Blk/Tan #8 gage wire is quite critical in the scheme of things. It is contained within a 1" plastic conduit passing along the front of the engine. It contains water temp sensor leads, air conditioning leads, alternator/PCM leads and the #6 gage alternator charge line to the PDC. This #8 gage Blk/Tan passes over the top/backend of the alternator and is "eventually" connected to the Auxiliary Battery (passenger side) negative terminal. This snapshot of the Factory Service manual documents "four critical ground leads" that are "spliced" in an unconventional method. This photo depicts the three #18 gage wires and the single #14 gage wire entering the shrink-tubing where the "crush-splice" occurs. This bundle exits the large plastic conduit below the VP44 This again is a most disturbing depiction of the Daimler/Chrysler method of splicing critical ground leads and then routing this across the top of the alternator and "eventually" bringing this to ground reference. This photo depicts where this #8 gage Blk/Tan first connects on the way to "eventual" ground...yes this is the Auxiliary Battery tray connector. Please note: it is spliced again and joins the PCM circuit board grounds...which are critical in their own nature...and "eventually" terminate at the negative post of the Auxiliary Battery's negative terminal. This photo is very interesting, it is the Factory Service manual and the assembly line documentation follows this as a road map in the matrix during production. Please NOTE the title "NAME" to each battery...I looked at this for a considerable amount of time before I realized the assembly line coordinators tried to work with the documentation from the Engineering Staff to "make it as it looks"...Could this single oversight be the reason of a four foot ten inch critical ground wire combination traveling the distance to "EVENTUALLY" terminate at ground? From a basic engineering standpoint regarding ground...you "NEVER CHOOSE THE PATH OF EVENTUAL GROUND" !!! It is to be the shortest and most concise connection in reference to ground...this is biblical in ALL ELECTRONICS...including pickup trucks. ! Here is the Factory Service manual documenting the PCM circuit board reference ground starting as a pair of #14 gage wires being spliced into a #10 gage bundle and arriving at the Auxiliary Battery through another connector that joins a #8 gage wire that is "splice-joined" under plastic conduit in a Y configuration joining the rouge #8 gage "after passing over the alternator" traversing the entire engine compartment from the driver side of the vehicle. Seriously I have been drinking excessively, most recently, due to the nature of this blatant discovery. This is the hidden Y splice at the Auxiliary Battery where the "mess" EVENTUALLY terminates for ground reference. This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location It took a little research to find the size and proper thread-pitch. Metric M5 with a 5/16" hex head is perfect This is where you apply a fresh "quality" #6 gage ground and terminate this at the Main Battery negative post on the drivers side for absolute ground reference for the VP44 and ECM This is a very short and concise reference to ground. This is the corrected procedure for a rather critical ground. The two largest wires originally contained within the 1 inch conduit are no longer present and located well away from the alternator. My alternator B+ "charge" line is now a #4 gage line directly connected to the Auxiliary Battery and when my new battery terminals arrive and they are secured, I'll provide photos of a completed Master Power Supply System within this engine bay. With these corrections, I would hypothesize that a poor ripple specification on a given alternator would be overcome by the immense capacitance of the parallel batteries and would become less prone to causing the dreaded TC lock/unlock for automatics and cruise-control abnormalities for the manual transmission platforms. The #8 gage Blk/Tan passing over the alternator as an "EVENTUAL" ground is gone...the PCM, ECM, VP44 and the PDC are now grounded in accordance of standard Electronic Engineering practices. Respectfully W-T
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