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  1. 6 points
    Finally have my 5" how I like it. Exhaust all scavenged off a kenworth w800 Ohhh man I'm really liking the 3rd gen wheels I have two sets. Thinking about powdercoating one set mat black or BMW silver. I might look into a set of street tires toyo used to have a m54 that was heavy duty street application. I've had great luck running m55s never tried the 54 would be cool to have a quite street tread and swap on mud terrains in October
  2. 6 points
    Grid Heater Bypass Simplified The method described below is a simplified way of turning the grid heaters on and off when starting the engine and reducing the electrical load on the alternator without setting a P0380/P0382 code. The bypass solenoid is a 300amp rated Ford type starter solenoid. When both grid heaters are on there is about 180amp draw and after start up the draw is reduced to 90 amps so the bypass relay has a 50% plus overload safety factor. Suggested Parts List 1 Standard Motor Parts starter solenoid SS-581 (bypass solenoid) 1 automotive on/off switch DC rated (your choice of style) 1 ATC fuse holder or fuse block (needed if not using fuse in PDC) 1 5amp fuse 13” 6AWG wire cable 5’ 18AWG wire red 5’ 18AWG wire blue 3’ 18AWG wire black 2 6AWG 5/16” copper wire ring terminal 3 22-18 AWG #10 ring terminal 2 #10X32X3/4” screw 2 #10X32 nut 4 #10 washer 4-5” of heat shrink (for the 8AWG cable terminals) 5’ ¼” plastic split wire loom 1 pack of 5-7” plastic ties 1 roll rosin core solder Putting It Together Disconnect both batteries; remove left (driver’s side) battery and battery tray. On the side of the battery tray fit the bypass solenoid and mark holes to be drilled; you may have to grind one side of the bypass solenoid mounting bracket to have it fit flush on the side of the battery tray. Drill 2 holes, 13/64”-7/32”, where marked on battery tray and mount the bypass solenoid with the #10 screws and nuts as shown below. Note: the bypass solenoid is grounded through its body so a black ground wire, with a #10 ring terminal at each end, is attached to one of the mounting screws and the other end grounded to the body. Reinstall the battery tray. Left battery tray with solenoid attached. Find a place in the cab where the switch type you chose will fit and be readily accessible. We used a rocker switch mounted in the kick panel below the steering column. For power you can tap into the fuse box on the left side of the dash. Find a terminal that has power only when the ignition key is in the on position. This is where you can add an ATC fuse holder with a 5amp fuse. Connect one end of the red wire to the fuse holder and the other end to the switch. Connect the blue wire to the other switch terminal and run it through the rubber grommet in the fire wall and with a #10 ring terminal connect it to the bypass solenoid terminal marked S; cover with ¼ “ split wire loom. Make up the 6AWG cable (an 8AWG cable will work also) with the 5/16” copper ring terminals and heat shrink. I solder my cable ends on using a small butane torch but you can use a large cable end crimper. Be sure to index the orientation of the cable ends to the cable before attaching them so the ring terminals fit squarely on to the battery and solenoid. The cables for the grid heat solenoid and battery power can now be attached to the bypass solenoid; the battery power cable to the firewall side of the bypass relay and the cables for the heater solenoid to the other side; reinstall the battery, connect all the terminals and reset the apps. Left battery tray installed with bypass solenoid. Notice position of the cables. Note: I have experienced a P1291” No temperature rise seen from intake heaters” when the temperature is below 35°F and the heaters are turned off right after starting the engine. I suggest leaving them on when first starting in cold weather for a minute or two. This was installed with the help of JAG1 on his 2001 Ram 2500 diesel utility box work truck. Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 7/6/2019 View full Cummins article
  3. 6 points
    The beermuda triangle.......
  4. 5 points
    I seem to remember stories of unidentified flying hose clamps in that general vicinity too
  5. 5 points
    I get both sides of this. Respect for private property is a cornerstone of the country but public lands are one of the best things the government ever did for the people. Every now and then I just think about how much better things would be if some people weren't total pieces of sh*t. Ask to use land responsibly, do so, and have no standing to sue for stupid sh*t. There's plenty for all, but small groups of sh*tbirds really ruin it for decent people. That's on both sides of the issue, too. Billionaires blocking access to public lands is as bad as turds destroying private lands.
  6. 4 points
    After riding around formthe past 2 or 3 years with this broken pos, i got upgrade. I think I gotm2 more horse power out of it. I went to the salvage yard Saturday. A long put off trip.
  7. 4 points
    Just wanted to update the thread that I have determined that the fan clutch is working perfectly fine. I've been towing in some much hotter weather we've been experiencing these past few days and the engine fan is roaring just like it has always at the appropriate times. Thank you everyone for the suggestions and input...
  8. 4 points
    This portion of the article is sponsered by @JAG1 Bolt Dropping Service Inc. Droping things is our specialty.
  9. 4 points
    Finally had to change a oil cooler gasket on my truck. It has been seeping for the last 5 to 6 months leaving a small bit of coolant on the floor of the garage. I will let you all know that oil cooler gasket set is a Cummins only thing. I tried NAPA, Autozone and few others and no one stocks this gasket set. As for changing it out is pretty straight forward. You need to remove the air filter and the oil filter. On the oil filter housing remove the oil hose for the turbo. Then the bolts holding the oil cooler in place are all 10mm heads. After I got it pull out I compared the new and old gasket to realize that the rubber seal lip had failed. You can see its completely missing on the old gasket. This is where my coolant leak was from. Most likely just old age. Filter side of the oil cooler. Coolant side of the oil cooler. These photos are without clean up. Just removed and photos taken. 17 years of tap water and creek water the block has 385k miles and no signs of scale build up at all. As for clean up. Sharpen my puddy knife and scraped off the old rubber seal. Be very careful that no debris get into the oil holes below. I used a bit of brake clean and cleaned up the outer housing. Oil cooler I buffed the sealing edge with a scotch brite pad in a drill. Very lightly to just smooth the seal surface again. I did an extra step and chased the threads on the bolts to clean them up going back in. They were kind of corroded from dried coolant and oil. I used a 8mm x 1.25 die. The sandwich gasket between the filter and the cooler came off super easy and peeled off clean. I will mention that it much easier to stack up all the parts and pass two bolts through and get that started. DO NOT use any sealants here! Just bolt it up. I check the Dodge FSM for torque specs and found nothing about the oil cooler for installation. I was aiming for about 15 foot pounds on these bolts. Make sure to pull the thermostat so you can refill the block with coolant. After you start the engine and let it run a bit make sure to check the oil level too. I dumped the oil filter out and ended up adding oil to be in the normal range again.
  10. 4 points
    If you want any more coking from her LET IT BE. She must have gone to the same cooking school as my wife. If it isn't over cooked it isn't done.
  11. 4 points
    Either way I'm sure it would have a 'fowl' smell whilst cooking . Wonder if excessive AC ripple would help or hurt?
  12. 4 points
    So did you cook a chicken on it?? Hate to see you miss an opportunity.
  13. 4 points
  14. 4 points
    take it one wire at a time, Pick a wire, follow it, see what it powers. If you don't need or use it remove it. If needed rout the wire next to existing wire harness and cover them with a split wire loom for a clean install and terminate them in the PDC or add an auxiliary fuse box.like the one shown below.
  15. 4 points
    Howdy guys it’s been a while since I have posted! A lot has changed in the last few months. I sold the 2000 6 speed and bought a 99 24 valve automatic trans. The new truck has 102k miles. No rust absolute mint condition all original. I’ve got a few questions regarding the 47re that is in the new rig. First thing I’ll be doing is gauges. Trans,fuel, and boost. First off I need a rundown on what a tc lockup switch is and how it works and will it benefit my stock trans. Next is they’re some upgrades I should do to help with trans longevity? Truck is all stock with no plans to add any power. As of now the trans shifts perfect. I know some people will say I’m crazy to sell a 6 speed and buy an auto but that’s what I wanted I guess.
  16. 4 points
    It's only taken me 17 years to get that far... Quadzilla +150 HP VCO Injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) 425 ARP head studs Exhaust brake 4" Exhaust South Bend Clutch Con OFE HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12) Then to get off the phone with @dieselautopower and he's trying to sell me twins. Dreaming a bit, but I know I'm way out on limb first I gotta pay the hospital bills first. You can have @JAG1 spot under the the tree in my yard. I can supply 120V 15A power for ya...
  17. 4 points
    Looks good..... you'll also be very happy to note, I made no chicken joke this time.
  18. 3 points
    Ok gang. I've got a member that is worried about stepping on toes. Let's say Member A had produced a write up for a 2nd Gen. Then Member B wants to improve on Member A's article. This is absolutely fine. Anyone may improve on anyone else's articles. I would say keep it in the GNU license design. In a nutshell GNU license agreement states that anyone can rewrite a piece of Linux software but the author MUST give credit to the original author design. Putting this together for M73M.com anyone can rewrite an article and improve but the new author MUST acknowledge the previous author. It would be kind of nice to point out what the improvement is as well. I'm putting this out on the site just to keep things moving. We are all big family and we all learn from each other. This means that someone else will take a lead when new information, or improved method of doing said repair or upgrade. Enjoy Y'all...
  19. 3 points
    There is a small shop here in Nampa called 208Tire.com They sell name brand and off brand tires without the overhead of the large stores. They don't do installs though, just sell the tires. They have a small local shop they send customers to for installation. I guess the customers get a discount for all the business sent there way from the 208 guys.
  20. 3 points
    Brian, If you don't mind give us a list of what functions now work and what doesn't. Look in the downloads section. (look at the top of the page it should say "forums" "Articles" then Downloads. The full 2001 factory service manual should be there. Use the wiring section (8w) to help yourself slowly trace it out. The module under the dash is the central timer module. The PCM is on the firewall on the passenger side. The PCM is responsible for voltage control. (what you did should be really far from damaging the alternator, but I guess if the PCM is not communicating, it may not regulate charging.) If your batteries are too discharged all kinds of weird things can happen. Get them charged up. GL Hag
  21. 3 points
    Some good info here: https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr9DtEe.S1dT7IA4p9XNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTByNWU4cGh1BGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzYw--/RV=2/RE=1563322783/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fstaging.powerdrivendiesel.com%2fdifference-vco-sac-injectors%2f/RK=2/RS=OTvToR8X4SM4gaOlfb_kXpFN3d0-
  22. 3 points
    If coolant temp flowing through the heat exchanger is higher than the ATF flowing through the heat exchanger, then yes, there will be a heating effect on the fluid. But the designed purpose of the heat exchanger is to cool the 260-280 degree fluid that comes out of the converter at times quickly and efficiently down to (or near to) the temperature of the coolant. A fluid-to-fluid heat exchange is very efficient, but obviously you're limited as to how much you can cool something by the temperature of your coolant. With the 3rd Gen guys, who are removing their heat exchangers quite a bit, I have found the Derale 15870 fan-cooled setup plumbed into the return to the transmission to be a suitable replacement, and it does a great job of alleviating the temperature problems that they inevitably experience when removing the exchanger from the system.
  23. 3 points
    Same as @MoparMom she don't like my Chicken I cooked either. She likes it dried out and tough. I tend to cook it till the meat is all white throughout and still juicy. Then pull out my KFC seasoning mix and presto I've got a killer meal. Hard to save tough chicken.
  24. 3 points
    @Dieselfuture's head is now to big to fit thru a normal door opening.
  25. 3 points
    A guy I know from NC uses these pillows and swears by them.
  26. 3 points
    From the FSM, how to check turbo charger shaft for play.. (3) Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor housing for an impeller rubbing condition (Fig. 25). Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists. (4) Measure the turbocharger axial end play: (a) Install a dial indicator as shown in (Fig. 26). Zero the indicator at one end of travel. (b) Move the impeller shaft fore and aft and record the measurement. Allowable end play is 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) MIN. and 0.089 mm (0.0035 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these parameters, replace the turbocharger assembly. (5) Measure the turbocharger bearing radial clearance: (a) Insert a narrow blade or wire style feeler gauge between the compressor wheel and the housing (Fig. 27). (b) Gently push the compresser wheel toward the housing and record the clearance. (c) With the feeler gauge in the same location, gently push the compressor wheel away from the housing and again record the clearance. (d) Subtract the smaller clearance from the larger clearance. This is the radial bearing clearance. (e) Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.326 mm (0.0128 in.) MIN. and 0.496 mm (0.0195 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these specifications, replace the turbocharger assy.
  27. 3 points
    Most times when things get older the get incontinent
  28. 3 points
    Kept yelling at the my truck to quit peeing in the shop. After 17 years you figure the truck would be house broke right?
  29. 3 points
    Funny thing though is my niece cooked some chicken breast on the grill last night. I got me a piece with some tater salad and sat down to eat it. That chicken came from @JAG1 alternator. She must of grilled for a half our. The polite man that I try to be did not complain. Her husband got home late and she fixed him a plate and he tried to eat it but could not stick his fork in it and expressed that to her. She comenced to explaing that white meat chicken is just that way dry and hard. I had to get up and go to bed because I was real close to falling o the floor laughing. I am laughing and typing right now. I am blessed to have this time with her. We have not seen each other since her mother died 15 years ago other than a few calls. But I got to tell her its your cooking and not the chicken.
  30. 3 points
    I really like my 3.55s I wouldn't change to 4.10 even if I had lots of money to throw away. No clue on what smarty settings. If stock injectors I wouldn't think youd see much heat from any settings. How much boost does it make. If its o ly in 22-24 psi range then turn buckling the waste gate closed would probly knock your egts done 1-200deg and might even make the but dyno register more power. I wouldnt go in a gear change with out proper shims and tools to make sure the gear lash is correct. Ring and pinion sets cost way to much to screw up and have to do more than ounce. But the job is very doable for the diy seller that is willing to take the time to learn how to do it right and then do it. I wouldn't even replace 3.55 set with a new 3.55 set with out going through all the same steps same as 3.55 -4.10 swap.
  31. 3 points
    No kidding man, mine just started to misfire at idle again, engine load is bouncing between 5 and 8, it set for few weeks while I was working on my new toy vw tdi, I bet it got jealous and did that to me So I beat the crap out of it to put it back in its place, seems better. It almost feels like one of the injectors is missing and they only got about 10 K on them. Really getting tired of pulling injectors, but who am I preaching to
  32. 3 points
    This looks like it will fit: https://torqueking.com/product/90025/qu90025-rear-output-bushing-heavy-duty-241-261-263-transfer-cases/ https://torqueking.com/product/10586/tk10586-dodge-np241-transfer-case-rear-housing-shim-gasket/
  33. 3 points
  34. 3 points
    My grandpa used to live trap them on the other side of the pond then pull a rope attached to the trap from across the pond into the water to drown them. rarely had one spray. if you shoot them in the spine they also can't spray.
  35. 3 points
    Basically the new version is a Ford Starter Solenoid. Pass the high current power lead of the grid heater through the high current studs the wire a toggle switch for the smaller control studs. Bingo. ECM still sees the grid heater solenoids no codes. You can turn off the grid heaters at any time.
  36. 3 points
    We sell shims here https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-24v-injector-pop-off-pressure-shim-kit-24vshim If you just want a few of a specific size we have as small as .05"
  37. 3 points
    Old thread, I know. But I wanted to clear up the fact that the heat exchanger is not there to bring the fluid up to temperature. It is there to cool the extremely hot fluid coming from the torque converter when working it hard.
  38. 3 points
    I'm slowly becoming more confident. I'll build motors and work on most anything but automatic transmissions have been Greek to me and scarey. My tranny builder built my tranny we came up with a parts list and settled on how much money to put in it. (Alot) he did the valve body then I grew some nuts and decided to go into the valve body myself. Wasnt near as bad as I thought it would be. I am far from knowing much about the 47re. It's an interesting tranny and I'm interested in it so I'm continually learning as much as I can. From anyone and every where I can
  39. 3 points
    That's how Mike makes his extra money, he got that area booby traped with emps that takes out random stuff on dodges. The bolt down the intake is just an excuse to have more beer while watching him work.
  40. 3 points
    I am up for this. Do y'all do small business loans also?
  41. 3 points
    We still do the rental for those who cannot find anyone local who can help. Better than going to the dealership. https://www.dieselautopower.com/smarty-s-03-rental-sr-s03a
  42. 3 points
    I never had a single problem with my vp in my old 98 but I got a good deal on p-pump and all swap parts so I made the swap. Never had a single issue with that setup either and actually got my best mpg with the little 160 p-pump with all the free pump mods.
  43. 3 points
    Ez and rv275's should pass emissions without trouble. Gonna be ~300hp which is plenty for towing. Def need a boost elbow
  44. 3 points
    Now thats just uncalled for there. This is a job for the free ranger chickens, if I could find them.
  45. 3 points
    'They" say if you pick them up by the tail they can't spray you. Trouble is getting to the tail in the first place. 'They' also say if you throw a cover over them they can't spray. I have not tried either. Let me know how you make out. Years ago I had a family of skunks after my chickens (yes @dripley I'm coming out of the closet). I set traps and caught a bunch of them but what an awful stinkin mess (the shunks).Lasted for more like a week or 2. I probably should have just let them kill the chickens instead Just had another thought. Place this picture where the skunks are. Guaranteed they'll get the heck out of Dodge.
  46. 3 points
    For the money spent and the lack of necessary supporting mods, I would go with an Edge EZ and RV injectors. The EZ does the boost fooling and comes with a boost elbow for the wastegate hose. The RV's are new Bosch, so most vendors don't require a core. I used this combo for 12 years on my '01. OEM clutch, lift pump and turbo. It dynode 335 hp. 300k miles later, I am still running the RV injectors, 4 years on the Edge Juice.
  47. 3 points
    One reason the fuel pumps are in or near the fuel tank is not because its pushing the fuel but rather it's pressurizing the fuel in the lines to keep the fuel from boiling and causing vapor lock. Gasoline, depending on the blend, will start to boil at a temp as low as 104°F (#2 diesel 540°F) and produce vapor bubbles in the fuel line this will cause engine misfire and stalling. Also, when the engine is turned off a check valve keeps pressure in the fuel lines; this is called rest pressure. The rest pressure keeps the fuel from boiling and vapor locking when the car is parked for a short time with a hot engine. The rest pressure bleeds off at a slow rate as the engine cools. Another reason for the fuel pump to be in the fuel tank is to keep it cool. With the pump immures in fuel and cool running the pump does not have to be built as robust as one mounted on the out side of the tank. The vehicle manufacturer also benefits when the pump mounted with the fuel sender unit making for a quick install and is less expensive than a pump and fuel sender mounted separately. This is a design problem that Chrysler inflected on the Cummins engine. Even the VP44 suffers from this and leads us back to this point... mechanical or electric fuel pump...pull or push.
  48. 2 points
    Let's see what Volkswagen has to say about that... "Yes, taken to the wood shed trouble. They must be from that the last group that fled from California. Here in California the police are considered a revenue generator for the city/county/state so there are a lot of them around.
  49. 2 points
    I agree, especially since he stripped the block down.
  50. 2 points
    I have towed my 15k 5th wheel with just he rv 275's and it did fine it was not a beast but did the job. 6 to 7 percent grades in 5th, 4th your case, thru the mountains in NC. A boost fooler and elbow would help. For a while I had a Banks Ottomind on it till it crapped the bed. All this on the stock clutch and never sipped it, also the clutch had 170k on it. My vote would be the EZ and RV's. Economical and a decent bump in power. The Banks tuner added abot 75hp and was not smokey. I have not personally run an EZ. I also am not mountain dweller but have towed over the Blue Ridge many times with the 5th wheel. Thats in the 6000 foot or so elevation.
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