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  1. 5 points
    Haven't been on in awhile, lifes been crazy to say the least. Thanks to Harvey we had the worst flood since 1913 with most of the homes in my area severely damaged or destroyed (including mine). Still trying to recover from this mess and it will be quite some time before we a have a regular home again. We're alive and nothing irreplaceable was lost, both of which we are very thankful for. Just wanted to stop in and say Howdy to let everyone know I'm still alive and that I haven't forgotten about this place.
  2. 5 points
    OK... Talked to Ryn at BlueTop Steering... Great man and knows his stuff. There is one small difference between the steering boxes. It's the input shaft seal. The early version has a dust seal and pressure seal. Where the later version has single dust/pressure seal. So I've got to get him a picture of the input shaft and he'll get me the complete seal kit for my box. Blue Top Steering Gear Inc. 701-301-1256 Ryan@bluetopsteeringgears.com @Wild and Free He called you out by name and mention the time you worked together at the coal mine.
  3. 4 points
    Close... Lockup occurs when the "release" pressure in front of the lockup piston is exhausted via the hollow input shaft. When the converter is unlocked, it is being charged by the VB through the hollow input shaft. When a lockup is commanded, the solenoid closes, which strokes the lockup valve against spring pressure in the lower VB, which then sends hydraulic pressure to the inboard end of the switch valve (which has been regulating charge pressure to this point). This strokes the switch valve against spring pressure to the "locked" position which then reverses the flow of fluid to/from the torque converter. The fluid that was charging the converter through the input shaft (and holding the apply piston in the "released" position via hydraulic pressure in front of the piston) reverses flow and exhausts out through the VB, and the converter now gets its charge through the hub at full line pressure. This forces the piston against the front of the converter, locking the clutch. A dragging converter clutch is most often caused by a failed converter, but I have seen a stuck switch valve cause the same thing quite a few times.
  4. 4 points
    If you came into my shop to have a transmission built, with a 62mm top turbo and that large-housing S475 on the bottom, I would recommend a stock stall speed converter. I would recommend either a Goerend 17SS or a DPC equivalent. Both are fantastic converters. Anything tighter than that is going to really kill the bottom end performance and introduce a LOT of smoke into the mix due to its inability to spool the larger turbos and make boost. Once you have the correct converter, set the TV cable so that the WOT 1-2 shift occurs at about 2800-2900 rpm (on your setup) and, assuming a well-calibrated valve body, you should be set. I think I read somewhere that you had appx. 1/4" of slack in the TV cable at "idle" position. That is going to be WAY too loose. Typically, the cable will be in a "neutral" position or slightly pre-loaded to achieve the desired shift rpm on a 2nd Gen 47RE.
  5. 4 points
    I'll have to wait until there's someone here so I can try gettng into the truck, the cab step not withstanding. i habe a history of falls & that would really screw up my day. I've likely had MS a long time, the Neurologist who diagnosed me correctly in 2001 went over my records & indicated events going back 15 years at that point. I have been in the later Secondary Progressive phase since 2002. The fact I can still get around on my own at all, means I'm doing better than most in my position.
  6. 4 points
    Knowledge of timing is power
  7. 4 points
    Just pull the Cummins that will save a ton of weight and fuel consumption will diminish greatly
  8. 4 points
    Saw this truck in front of the Post Office in downtown Riggins, ID when I was stuck there waiting for the vp44. Now I know why the town dog was chasing it.
  9. 4 points
    If anyone has been on a long trip and suffered a breakdown, how did you get the truck back home to your shop? I'd like to hear what you did? Very important topic for some folks in my opinion. And I never been able yet to get it back home yet. But here is what we’ve gone through. Wife says we are getting pretty good at getting un-stranded. First of all being stranded is not fun (usually) and can be very expensive. I'm still cry'n & whin'n over the last time we were stranded. We’ve been stranded several times but last time we got stranded we got taken advantage, big time. Not only time wise, but we were lied to and final costs were just under $3,000 worth and total time was 3 weeks 2 days. We’re retired and towing wives 9,000 trailer around, so time of being stranded isn’t that big of deal. We’re towing our motel room with us so to speak. But you don’t know where you might get stranded. We've also spent a 4 days in a yard of a trans/radiator repair shop, overlooking a scenic sewer pond and overly friendly dog with about 10 pounds of grease on it. Being stranded is also challenge. Before the last breakdown, I knew nothing about these pick-ups. That’s why we bought one in 2005 in the first place. . They are supposed to last forever, so why bother learning about them My idea of not having to know anything these trucks has changed 100 percent. Now the more my hood “salutes” in the up position the more I learn. Here is info that might help. Communications… (most important) (phone) T-mobile does not have as good coverage as their maps say they do. We’ve talked to lots of “full time” RVers and now have t-mobile and Verizon, as they are best if you need nationwide coverage. We now each have a phone plan but with different carriers, and price only about $8.00 more a month than what we were paying for one carrier with both phones on plan. Now very seldom both of us don’t have coverage. (getting parts and shipments overnighted to you) UPS or Fedex stores but small places Mom and Pop places are best to get parts shipped to you. Just someplace with an address that won’t mind getting a shipment or two for you. ( wifi) Somewhere near Souix Falls the ABS light goes off. It’s Sat afternoon, Dodge dealer said I’ll have to wait till Monday. I got on-line (TDR) with the wifi hot spot and found what to check. Found elec connection right above diff came loose. Couple Zip ties from Ace hardware and good to go. (computer) Now days I’m even more prepared and hopefully don’t get separated from my money as quick. To help me, everything I find and learn I save to my computer. You may not have internet where you break down at, but I can still look at computer without any internet. I have lots of info saved, maybe too much. Recently I renamed my saved files and have files broken down into sections like the Dodge manual is set up. And yes, I carry the manuals with me. 02 - Suspension 09 - Engine 15 - 21-Transmission 03 - Rear Axle 10 - Lubrication 16 - Drive Shafts 22-Wheels & Tires 05 - Brakes 11 - Exhaust 17 - 23-Body 06 - Clutch 12 - 18 - Performance 24-Heat A/C 07 - Cooling 13 - Frame & Bumpers 19-Steering 25-Emissions 08 - Electrical 14 - Fuel 20- 26-Miscellaneous Example…if I save an article that main focus is “fuel” I start my file name with “14”, see above, section 14 is fuel. If I were to save this posting I would probably save it under section 26 which is “miscellaneous”. So I would copy to word file and name as “26 ideas for major breakdown”. For me saved info so much easier to find, especially after you get lots of files saved. Mechanics…used to be a turbo diesel shop on about every corner. Not anymore. Some are listed under “diesel repair” some under “auto repair” depends on the area you are stuck at I think. Start by asking locals…But be careful, one time we ended up at a “good mechanic” that was recommended and I think he was a good mechanic, but for gas. He installed a new fuel module, But he installed the gas model. It worked for maybe ¼ tank, then wouldn't suck fuel anymore. This 1st mechanic felt so bad he loaned us his car for the day, so we could get our truck to another shop that knew something about diesels. That “one” day car loan turned out to be 3 weeks! Reason was the other 2 “diesel” mechanics weren’t so good either. Save all your old parts! The second mechanic noticed the “gas” fuel module and wanted $250.00 for a "big line" replacement module, we drove back to the first mechanic and fished our old fuel module out of his trash dumpster. The 2nd mechanic was taking forever. Our pick up was parked for several days in between about a dozen farm tractors and gigantic irrigation pumps, and no work being done. They were taking care of their “bread and butter” accounts first. Not what they called "winter visitors" code words for we don't care when you want it. We went looking for other mechanic’s and ended up at a shopping center (that had wifi) asking locals that had 2nd gens for recommendations. Yuma does not have very many 2nd gens compared to Ford and I wonder if heat has something to do with it? Also Dodge needs to put larger badges on their diesels. I don’t like “stocking” people when they are parking to see what badge they have, gas or diesel. Dealers---We have not found a dealer yet that either doesn’t have the time or wants me to pay for his “admission cost” of them pulling codes (usually around a hundred dollar bill). So they are our last resort. Lots of time their mechanics are kids that were in diapers when our 2nd gen were made. That doesn’t bother me as much as most of these kids don’t care about the quality of their work. And more times than not, their knowledge is lacking and just want to throw parts at it. So we avoid dealers. Rv parks are great resource for mobile mechanics--- many have mechanic’s info on a board or ask management. ---Some mobile mechanics are very good. Problem is you really don’t know until your wallet is flattened So if they have a cards on the wall, pick with the one with the oldest looking service truck. If you can get their address, google up their address on a map program. Pick the one with most junk in their yard. They know how to put stuff together. We disregard the reviews on yelp type reviews. Brother and sisters, aunts and uncles can make anybody’s reviews look good. ---Other info---Many web sites have what they call “911” or need help now type thing. Post what your problem is and maybe you might luck out and get help. But be very careful of who’s advice you take. Confirm all advice you get. That is where your saved files come in handy. On the Cummins web site under “state” listings they have the “pres” of the state. Ask them if they answer who they would call or do. My “go to” sites are (and in this order) Moparman, TDR then cummins web site. I have contact info of a retired Cummins engineer that eats and sleeps cummins, but communication is a problem with him. Him and his wife full time RV and usually are at some campground without any communication. He always writes back but again communication very important. When they are in town, doing laundry and decide to give a call a week later. Also might help you of what to bring, there are lots of postings about what to carry in your “just in case” tool box for repairs on the road. Usually being broke down sucks, but here is a fun example…In Waitsburg WA smoke started coming out from under the hood. If lifted the hood, and remember I don’t know much about these trucks. I asked at the grocery store “who might be able to fix it”. Cashier asked where I was broke down at. We gave cashier my Mom in law’s address. Then we stopped by the post office and by the time we got back to my Mom in laws place, some guy was already in her driveway. (News travel fast in small towns) he had big chrome stacks coming out of his bed and jacked up so high one would need a ladder to get in. Took him about 5 min to say our ac compressor was bound up and pulley wasn’t moving at all and the pulley melted the belt. And I would have to get new ac compressor out of Spokane or maybe Walla Walla if we were lucky. Then he banged with his fist real hard near the radiator, pointing out a decal that I never noticed before. The decal had the belt routing for “ac and without ac”. He called local garage for the belt with “no ac” in order to bypass compressor, but they didn’t have one. He hangs up the phone and says, “one more angle to try”. He called his girlfriend that was working in Walla Walla. He had her pick up the belt on her way home to Waitsburg. Later that night during diner, we hear our truck start and there he was all smiles. I asked “how much” is said $25.00 for changing belt and the price of the new belt. Anyways wife gives him $200.00 for all his troubles and big tip IMO. My Mom in law called him for years after that to do her auto work. When he pulls out of her driveway, he puts about 10 tons of smoke in the air and waving good by. Mom in law is staring at all the smoke through her kitchen window and innocently says “I hope that $200 dollars is enough to get his truck fixed, see all that smoke, something is wrong”
  10. 3 points
    The last trans. builder wanted to upgrade the output for obvious reasons. I never broke it. The truck with vp on it went 7s in the 1/8th on a stock output. A vp truck will not outflow the 12cm (,70) housing with a gate imo. The rpm range is far too low. Why I recommend them to people. The only company I know actively replacing the sxe covers was Industrial which they now have stopped. Idk about DAP. The exhaust housing, Borg does not rate their housings in cm2 (Holset measurement). They use a/r ratio. .70 t3 is what you are looking for. Wade was banned from cf for attempting to help DOR buyers get into contact with Danny. It was a shyte show. If I missed anything it was not on purpose. We don't do no stinking burnouts.....
  11. 3 points
    Everyday I hear about the teaching of, or the poisening of young folks with the schools opinions/ agenda. Like news, its bunch a BS without the research and facts of reality. One pastor I listen to says these times we have more 'truth decay' than tooth decay. Wish I could use a wire brush and scrub away the news using opinions presented as fact. It's so phony baloney. I can't watch TV much any longer, especially those that are a bad example of a human being with no moral character as man or woman. Without God and the 10 commandments there is no education
  12. 3 points
    You'll be surprised I've seen some boxes where I turn 3 to 4 turn just to find bottom again. Then loosen 1.5 turns. That means if you doing 1/8 turns that would be 12 times of adjusting and test driving. If your doing 1/4 turns that still 6 times of adjusting and test driving. Or my way and do it once.
  13. 3 points
    Driply spotted in his Sunday ride going to get a burger.
  14. 3 points
    My wife and I are sort of unicorns as well, we only have over the air tv for local channels and usually only watch the local news and not much past that the last few years, we are on the go so much it doesn't pay to have a monthly bill for satellite which is nothing but repeat stuff most times anyhow. We are however finally getting high speed fiber optic hooked up in our area soon, it has been run up to the house just needs to be hooked up and get the new wireless modem installed so we could stream whatever we want through whichever we want to choose. Netflix amazon ect. Just need to get a modern flat screen tv lol. we have an old 38" HD tube Sony Wega that is about 3 feet deep and weighs about 300 lbs. All the other subjects above I could get into as I follow and try to keep up on a lot of them but they are topics for another day, not enough time now. Localized weather modification has been going on since the 50's, there is actually a big lawsuit going on right here in ND between the state and a lot of farmers over this issue where the farmers want it stopped asap until more modern info of if it has a positive or negative affect on things, the state says its a positive but use only the info from the 70's when it was started. Globally the Geoengineering of overall weather patterns and along with this comes the Chemtrails and the poisoning of entire areas or countries is beginning to be proven over and again the last 5-10 years, what HAARP and other countries experiments are doing to the world is anybodys guess but there are definitely human factors at play which won't much matter if we don't get a hold of the Nuclear mess like Fukashima and all the other nuclear plants that are on the verge of death and catostrophic issues due to location and age, Heck in Florida they completely shut down 2 Nuke plants before Irma hit to avoid a fukashima event that's the first time in US history they have done a complete shut down which says a lot about the uncertainty of the nuke plants integrity.
  15. 3 points
    Thank you for that bit of information.
  16. 3 points
    Finally stepped back into a set of 285/75/R17's! And just in time for winter to supposedly hit my area too. Hoping these work out as well for me as they have for Tyler and his brother
  17. 3 points
  18. 3 points
    Hey Guys, pepsi71ocean here. I decided to finally write this article up after another round of people with issues with reman companies. So a while ago back in 10/2015 I shorted out my PCM with a botched rebuild on my Alternator(I forgot to add a sealing washer!) As a result, after replacing the defective alternator I still had no charging on the alternator. I went hunting for a re builder for my PCM. I was quoted almost $800 for a new blank from Dodge, and that didn't include programming. A friend of mine on Facebook who runs a Diesel Rebuild shop in the Midwest forwarded me this company here. I have put the company in table format, but If you have another one you used then message me and I'll add the Info. Re-builder Website Telephone Number of Rebuilds 1. Autocomputer Specialist https://autocomputerspecialist.com/ 1(954)-513-8359 5 1. AUTOCOMPUTER SPECIALIST: I was referred to them by my friend Stanley. In the end I believe the price for the rebuild was about $350. I called them, they emailed me the form to fill out with a brief description of the problem, then shipped my PCM to them. And when they opened it up they also sent me a photo and let me know what the issue was. Now they also gave me the list of possible wire issues, but I also knew that I was almost sure it was a botched alternator rebuild that I did on the one NAPA alternator. Here is the photo they sent me below. Total Turn time for me was 5 days and that included the shipping to and from their place in Florida. I have approximately 15,000 miles, and 2 years on this rebuild. To date I know of 4 other Dodge Cummins trucks running rebuild PCM's Although Stanley said he has sent out a dozen PCM/ECM's to them over time for customers from his shop, and that includes some medium duty stuff. NOTES: If you do send me a company, name the number of miles/years you have on your rebuild, and if they were easy to work with or not. If you could a short summary would be good as well. Thanks pepsi71ocean
  19. 3 points
    Well, today is my final day of active duty military. Served my 6 years as AMMO and getting out to go to school and persue a career in IP Security. As my parting gift, my flight made me this, 105MM shell that I hope @Mopar1973Man doesn't get mad at me for or trademarks. I've always been known to go to work from 7-3 go straight to the auto shop from 3-8, never taking a lunch break to work on the truck. I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S
  20. 3 points
    If you were to do a micron analysis of new oil you would be amazed at how dirty it is. Oil manufacturers rely on your oil filter to clean the oil. This is one of the reasons I never pre-fill an oil filter.
  21. 3 points
    Take your time, have it checked out by someone that is well knowledgeable about that year and model truck. Just because a guy has tools and is breathing doesn't make him a mechanic much less qualified to inspect a diesel truck . If you fined a truck and want to have it checked out don't fall for "Well I've got someone else coming over to look at it and he seemed pretty interested in buying it". If the seller is being honest then he won't care who looks it over. When towing a trailer over 2000lb a trailer brake controller is a must and make sure the trailer brakes are in good condition. You'll need to pull the drums for that and might as well repack the bearings while your in there. I had my trailer plug disconnect from the truck one time which disabled the trailer's electric brakes, I felt like Freddy Flintstone trying to stop all that weight.
  22. 3 points
    Yep can't understand why IBM won't give me a raise... says. ''two hrs. took too long'' All these guys are fun to camp with (pics above)
  23. 3 points
    Here's JAG1 getting ready to split some firewood. Here he is done
  24. 3 points
    @Mopar1973Man how could you, and not let us know, and why so cheap ...
  25. 3 points
    Not sure how well you can see it but basically it's a stock bar that I cut ball joint off and welded a pice of round stock same I'd as bushing side of track bar, went to parts store picked up poly bushing $15 then went to steel place got stock $5 then fasten all got a big fine thread bolt with 3 nuts $30 then chopped a 3 inch section of bar out and welded bolt on one side and nuts on the other, it might of been 4 inches can't remember now, but had to be shorter then stock by half inch so I could have the bar shortet. Everything is gusseted even bolt and nuts with round piece of pipe I had laying around that is just beraly fits over od of bar. When I was welding nuts together I grinded a v in them so I could fill it with welding wire, basically I over killed everything knowing it's an important part of handling. Been 4 or so years now no problems. I had a lot more time back then and that's why I dI'd it, now I'd probably just buy a kit. Difference is on the y when you go over bumps body moves away from frame and it pulls on the y and changes your toe in and out especially on a worn track bar, on t tow doesn't change unless you change it, going up and down over bumps may be noticeable in steering wheel moving left and right a bit.
  26. 3 points
    Maybe they had to export it to NC to get rid of it. But is possibly the straightest lumber I have bought right out of the hack in 30 years. So if you are ever in a CFA in Bowie MD that smells like dog piss, I built it.
  27. 3 points
    Are you running the oil from McDonald's deep fryer in your truck again?
  28. 3 points
    Man Nick you put these threads to end like a pro you are. , just couldn't resist.
  29. 3 points
    I've just learned that valve lash that is done wrong or in a hurry and I didn't verify my measurements can have impacts on performance, idling, and lope. Just a few days ago I figured I would just verify the lash and cold engine I was having issues getting feeler gauge to pass on a few cylinders. I ran the head again and verified all my measurements after torquing the lock nuts. Now after a few days my lope at idle is gone. Performance has improved slightly and even the MPG is up slightly. So I've got to admit this was my bad but I wanted to share my mistake to hopefully help other spot weird performance issues and check the basic things that might cause issue. I remember I was in a hurry install injectors and ran the valve lash quickly and the mistake cost me a world of weird issues that never seemed to go away no matter what I did.
  30. 3 points
    Told my son he would drive me to the cemetery in the 02 on my last trip. He tells it better be running good or he is going to call ahead and have them dig a bigger hole. Me, just to get the last jab in, it will be running top notch even if it kills me. AAAHHHH HA HAAAAAAA!!!!!
  31. 3 points
    Just give Ryan a call at Blue top he is a stand up guy and will walk you through any questions you have. His business has really taken off and he was able to walk away from his 90k+ a year job a month ago to focus on his business full time now. I will miss working with him, he made the days go by faster, he is a comical character all the time. BTW he actually builds some gears and components for Redhead lol. They work together on some things, they contract out some things to him. He told me a while back he appreciated me throwing his name out there and sending him business. I pass this on to you guys for supporting Blue collar America!!!! He is a one man show, he does it all..........for now. Heck you may wind up with another site sponsor out of the call. He drives a 94 cummins 4x4 dually reg cab 5 speed with a home built dump bed.
  32. 3 points
    They break the OD housing where it bolts to the main case, not back where the transfer case attaches. I see it probably 9 or 10 times a year. Matter of fact, I have one in the shop right now that I suspect of a cracked OD housing. It happens on the 3rd Gens because of the much larger 271 transfer case hanging off of it. It won't happen under normal use, typically, but if you ever lose a u-joint or carrier bearing, it will shake the back of the transfer case hard enough that the OD housing will crack, break, or even break an attaching bolt or two in some cases. I don't bother with that flimsy mount thing that someone came up with. I bought one once, but was quite unimpressed. I sent it back. Good u-joint maintenance is your friend... There are actually 6 studs holding the transfer case to the OD housing, but it won't break there. In fact most 3rd Gens have the transfer case corroded on there so badly, they can be quite difficult to separate. The break point is further forward, where the OD housing bolts to the case.
  33. 3 points
    I moved this over to the Smarty Forum and brought Brian From Smarty Resource over... Say Hi To Brian...
  34. 3 points
    Trick... If the gap is a bit loose twist both the allen and the nut together tighten. If the gap is bit too snug the twist the allen loosen as you tighten the nut. You can gain or lose gap measurement with this trick.
  35. 2 points
    JTEC refers to the controller, PCM.
  36. 2 points
    Check out these vented locking/non-locking fuel caps. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/stant-5674/fuel---emissions-16775/gas-cap-12847/diesel-lock-fuel-cap/10508d/5699303/2000/dodge/ram-2500?q=vented+fuel++cap or this one https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/stant-5674/fuel---emissions-16775/gas-cap-12847/diesel-only-fuel-cap/10838d/5699408/2000/dodge/ram-2500?q=vented+fuel++cap or this one http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-cap/duralast-fuel-cap/848454_0_3071
  37. 2 points
    I'll most likely stick with white lights. I know these will fit where the normal factory fog light typically is installed. I've been out measuring and seeing what I can make fit. Time to say good bye to... They worked good for all these years but time to upgrade to way better lighting. I have to say thank you to few people once again @Me78569 and @jlbayes for jumping into the HID lighting game to make me reconsider lighting. Now that I'm digging I'm finding better options and better quality lighting than most people are buying. Yeah I'll admit HID's are expensive to have them ready made for your truck but even the LED driving lights are expensive too but high-quality optics, polycarbonate lens, and reduced electrical load on the alternator it a win-win. I'm not seeing any end in sight for my travels. Till we find a dialysis nurse for Mom I'll continue to make my 250-mile trips to Ontario to keep her alive...
  38. 2 points
  39. 2 points
    Like most of you know, I don't have TV here at home. I do have a TV in the RV and watch local channels when we have a signal. What is so sickening is the important news or information is briefly covered and then quickly switch to some sort of entertainment that the newsgroup wants to place like cooking or exercise. I'm so glad to get home and not have any TV at all. Then other half of it that I can't stand is any free air TV signal you do get is nothing but black and white shows and 1960-1970's shows. Really? This is the best you can transmit? Stranger yet, I get more facts and information from you guys here than I do off any TV set...
  40. 2 points
    @TFaoro curse you!!!! the tfaoro leaky line curse has migrated to my truck. I should have never parked my truck close to yours. lines 5 and 4 have now been polished up, we will see if I continue to leak diesel.
  41. 2 points
    I highly recommend the Southbend O-HD. It's rated for 425 hp and is VERY smooth and quiet. It's my next clutch and I run about 400 rwhp. For me 400 rwhp is enough to run 60 up a 6% grade at a hair over 23K GCW. I think that's fast enough :-)
  42. 2 points
    Big thanks to aub1895 over on CF for lettings us save his writeup on an Eaton 10 speed swap I had to reroute the exhaust because there wasn't enough room for it between the frame rails. This is a convoluted stainless elbow I made up to mate the primary turbo to the exhaust brake Primary turbo + exhaust brake I had to put an air system on the truck so I upgraded to an air actuated exhaust brake. Modified exhaust The tank for the air system The air system runs the transmission, exhaust brake, horn, air suspension and air ride seat. Desiccant air dryer Air system installed Air system installed I had to upgrade to Optima Yellowtop batteries to run everything. Stock RR bellhousing Road Ranger transmission Beginning milling the adapter plate Turning the adapter ring Adapter ring Adapter ring + dodge bellhousing Adapter ring + adapter plate Step bored pockets for the twin countershafts in the back of the adapter plate Front of adapter plate Adapter plate installed Adapter plate + adapter ring installed Adapter plate + adapter ring installed Milling the dodge bellhousing Milling the dodge bellhousing Dodge bellhousing installed I bought a nv4500 bellhousing from advanced adapters for the project Concentric slave cylinder mount Concentric slave cylinder mount Turning concentric slave cylinder mount Concentric slave cylinder mount Concentric slave cylinder mounted I had to do a lot of research to find this slave cylinder, but it really simplified this conversion. It's out of a Mercedes Atego. I found an 1.750” input shaft for this transmission and had one of the techs at South Bend Clutch send me new set of clutch disks with 1.750” hubs in them. The input shaft had to be shortened, and I had to machine the flywheel to fit a larger pilot bearing. I was really impressed with the service from South Bend. When I got the slave cylinder I had to test it with different master cylinders to make sure that it had enough throw. The stock dodge, Mercedes Atego, and high capacity tilton master cylinders all failed. The only one that I could find that put out enough fluid was the high capacity Wilwood, but it didn't fit on the firewall where the old one was so I had to make some modifications. I had to take about 0.125” off of each of the fingers of the clutch diaphragm to make enough space for the input shaft. Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder installed Removing old transmission Removing old transmission Installing RR Transmission Transmission mounts Transmission mounting bolts Transmission cross member Rubber washers cut on bandsaw Transmission mounts Transmission mounted The transmission mount goes over the transmission, so that I dont have to remove it when I take the transmission out, and it's on less thing to have hanging down under my truck. Plus, it seemed like the best attachment point for the transmission. There was little clearance on the top of the transmission, so I placed the cushioned mounts between the cross member and the frame. Transmission mounted Rebuilding the np205Rebuilding the np205Rebuilding the np205Np205 rebuiltTwin stick shifterNp205 mountNp205 mountNp205 mountedBuilding driveshaftsBuilding driveshaftsDriveshaftsTransmission to transfer case driveshaft installed.I used the driveshaft from the semi, shortened it down, and welded a 1410 weldable yoke on the transfer case end. I got the weldable end yokes for this project from DennysDriveshafts.com. They have a great selection of driveshaft parts, and everything is well organized.Transmission oil cooler from the semiTransmission oil cooler from the semiModified tunnel before cover is installedAir seat, cover and twin stick shifter installedEverything installed + mudI've been running the transmission for the last month and a half hauling some heavy loads, and it's work flawlessly. I'm very pleased with the results.I hope this information is useful to somebody. I read a lot on this forum and don't post very often, so here's giving back.
  43. 2 points
    Thanks for your service, I am sure that Moparman won't care....just slip him a fiver.
  44. 2 points
    Overkill much??? I was expecting zip ties...
  45. 2 points
    Started building the fuel system tonight. I ordered 2 filter heads, a Donaldson water separator, Donaldson 3um filter, 10 ORB to 10 ORB adapter, a 3/8 pushloc to 10 ORB fitting and two 1/2 pushloc to 10 ORB fittings. I started with a 7.5" wide piece of 3/16 AR plate, cut two sections, and butt welded them together. I then drilled the holes for the filter bases and where it'll mount to the frame (We'll get there) Then it wouldn't be mine if I didn't brace it with some 1.5" x 1/4" strap. Then I really braced it - FYI it'll hold all 220lbs of me against the frame with 1 tight bolt, so two filters should be fine! Here's where it mounts to the frame. Those were both existing holes, so no structural integrity taken out of the frame. (1/2in bolts BTW) Here you can see where the fuel line will run from the pump into the filters. BTW the closest mount to the camera is the rear cab mount. Here you can see where the Fass is mounted. I'll make a new bracket for the A1000 when I order it. Here's the bases and the mount mounted to the frame. Mounted with the filters Here's a shot of how low the filters hang. They should be very well protected by the frame and traction bar mount. Last picture. Now some of you may think this thing is rusting apart, but I swear all of the rusty color on the cab is diesel mixed with road base!
  46. 2 points
    I tow with a basically stock 01 shortbed Dana 70, I gross just under 20k with all hooked up About 9500 lb on camper fully loaded, around 7500 on truck and and 2500 on boat. I have pretty much the bare minimum for towing but handles it ok. Like stated before the electric brake controller is a must, I wouldn't leave home with out it. I'm sure the trailer manufactures have the electric brakes as standard equipment, just make sure your truck has the in cab controller. The add on's like Exaust brake and engine performance are great when you can and afford to get them. Like myself they are in the future plans but for now I have no hesitation hooking up and traveling a 1000 miles or so, just have to be cautious and always expect the unexpected (mostly other drivers). Also stay away from the leveling kits if you can they just throw the geometry of the suspension off when all hooked up.
  47. 2 points
    It sounds like, for whatever reason, you're not getting a 3-2 downshift at the right time. Not knowing what all was done to the valve body, it would be tough to say exactly what is causing it, but I would suspect something with the part throttle portion of the valve body. Unless I have the valve body here in front of me, it's tough to really even speculate. Like I said on the phone, the best thing to do with that voltage regulator would be to take it off and throw it away...
  48. 2 points
    Another idea. Leave the valve alone and pick up a snubber from ISSPro and install it after the valve. This way you can still shut the line down and the snubber does the job of the cracking the needle valve. 3 years now and ZERO issues on ISSPro electric gauge.
  49. 2 points
    Correct...no ratings or how good or bad. Just handy for trip planning. Local info always much better. Only local info I could give is how hot it was. Hot weather was the last thing I thought about in the Dakota's
  50. 2 points
    Sounds like someone got a few tricks up their sleeve If someone stock a potato in my pipe it would spit out french fries
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