Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Dont, piss off, the chicken.
  2. 3 points
  3. 3 points
    I saw where mine could also rub in several places. In 06 when I bought my 2002 I stuffed pieces of packaging foam around any place or in between any place I thought might rub. They are still there helping to prevent wear . Every so often, due to the fact he is so short, I have dripley waddle under there to make sure everything is okay. He is a very good inspector.
  4. 2 points
    Evan, Pull strings from your rear tires forward. (probably have to have front tires off.) This will let you "see" where the rear end angle is in relation to your front suspension. This should help you visualize if the rear is really out of alignment. Take a string attached to the truck near the differential pull it across the rear of the tire, it should be long enough to go past the front end. Start with the string only touching the rear of the tire, slowly move the string towards the truck until it touches the leading edge of the rear tire. This is a reference line of the outer edge of the rear tire. Do this also on the other side of the truck. (you can tie them to jack stands or something. now you can measure the distance between the strings close to the tires and in front of the truck. the difference is your rear toe angle. (they should be parallel or slight toe in. never toe out on rears) the center of this rear toe angle relative to the center of your front suspension is your thrust angle. It should be nearly zero. This will also show you if you have "parallel offset" or dog tracking. (you need to check the body relationship to the suspension relationship also.) You can do it without removing wheels and just measure from parallel lines on both sides of the vehicle, but you just get measurements. there is no visual of the strings following the rear wheels to the front. If something is really wrong it will show up visually really quickly. Hag
  5. 2 points
    What indications are you seeing? The chicken's are growing extra down feathers or what?
  6. 2 points
    If you need misc, stuff, you can contact me. I'm not really trying to be in the "parts" business, but I deal with that stuff all day long, every single day. I can probably get it for you, or point you in the right direction.
  7. 2 points
    After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally finds a morsel of cheese. Again, as it is well known @Mopar1973Man was the only entity who positively identified the instigating source of this key issue. My entry today is not about alternators...it is about what Daimler/Chrysler did in regard to production of these Cummins powered platforms and the complete disregard of common sense Electronic Engineering. Please note, this applies to automatic and manual transmissions as each platform is plagued in the same manor with different quirks. This Blk/Tan #8 gage wire is quite critical in the scheme of things. It is contained within a 1" plastic conduit passing along the front of the engine. It contains water temp sensor leads, air conditioning leads, alternator/PCM leads and the #6 gage alternator charge line to the PDC. This #8 gage Blk/Tan passes over the top/backend of the alternator and is "eventually" connected to the Auxiliary Battery (passenger side) negative terminal. This snapshot of the Factory Service manual documents "four critical ground leads" that are "spliced" in an unconventional method. This photo depicts the three #18 gage wires and the single #14 gage wire entering the shrink-tubing where the "crush-splice" occurs. This bundle exits the large plastic conduit below the VP44 This again is a most disturbing depiction of the Daimler/Chrysler method of splicing critical ground leads and then routing this across the top of the alternator and "eventually" bringing this to ground reference. This photo depicts where this #8 gage Blk/Tan first connects on the way to "eventual" ground...yes this is the Auxiliary Battery tray connector. Please note: it is spliced again and joins the PCM circuit board grounds...which are critical in their own nature...and "eventually" terminate at the negative post of the Auxiliary Battery's negative terminal. This photo is very interesting, it is the Factory Service manual and the assembly line documentation follows this as a road map in the matrix during production. Please NOTE the title "NAME" to each battery...I looked at this for a considerable amount of time before I realized the assembly line coordinators tried to work with the documentation from the Engineering Staff to "make it as it looks"...Could this single oversight be the reason of a four foot ten inch critical ground wire combination traveling the distance to "EVENTUALLY" terminate at ground? From a basic engineering standpoint regarding ground...you "NEVER CHOOSE THE PATH OF EVENTUAL GROUND" !!! It is to be the shortest and most concise connection in reference to ground...this is biblical in ALL ELECTRONICS...including pickup trucks. ! Here is the Factory Service manual documenting the PCM circuit board reference ground starting as a pair of #14 gage wires being spliced into a #10 gage bundle and arriving at the Auxiliary Battery through another connector that joins a #8 gage wire that is "splice-joined" under plastic conduit in a Y configuration joining the rouge #8 gage "after passing over the alternator" traversing the entire engine compartment from the driver side of the vehicle. Seriously I have been drinking excessively, most recently, due to the nature of this blatant discovery. This is the hidden Y splice at the Auxiliary Battery where the "mess" EVENTUALLY terminates for ground reference. This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location It took a little research to find the size and proper thread-pitch. Metric M5 with a 5/16" hex head is perfect This is where you apply a fresh "quality" #6 gage ground and terminate this at the Main Battery negative post on the drivers side for absolute ground reference for the VP44 and ECM This is a very short and concise reference to ground. This is the corrected procedure for a rather critical ground. The two largest wires originally contained within the 1 inch conduit are no longer present and located well away from the alternator. My alternator B+ "charge" line is now a #4 gage line directly connected to the Auxiliary Battery and when my new battery terminals arrive and they are secured, I'll provide photos of a completed Master Power Supply System within this engine bay. With these corrections, I would hypothesize that a poor ripple specification on a given alternator would be overcome by the immense capacitance of the parallel batteries and would become less prone to causing the dreaded TC lock/unlock for automatics and cruise-control abnormalities for the manual transmission platforms. The #8 gage Blk/Tan passing over the alternator as an "EVENTUAL" ground is gone...the PCM, ECM, VP44 and the PDC are now grounded in accordance of standard Electronic Engineering practices. Respectfully W-T
  8. 1 point
    Went up to visit my mom in Canada this last week. 1200 miles each way. Some mixed 55, 65, and 80 mph driving. I gotta say I am impressed with the truck. MPG is as follows for each mph according to the lie-o-meter, but I am inclined to think it is pretty close when I look at mileage vs gallons burnt. I didn't keep exact records, but I know I filled up ~2.5x each way. 55: 25 mpg 65: 22 mpg 80: 18 mpg SOOO much nicer than the 2nd gen, it chews through mileage with much less stress than my old truck.
  9. 1 point
    An atheist was seated next to a little girl on an airplane and he turned to her and asked, "Do you want to talk? Flights go quicker if you strike up a conversation with your fellow passenger." The little girl, who had just started to read her book, replied to the total stranger, "What would you want to talk about?" "Oh, I don't know," said the atheist. "How about why there is no God, or no Heaven or Hell, or no life after death?" as he smiled smugly. "Okay," she said. "Those could be interesting topics but let me ask you a question first. A horse, a cow, and a deer all eat the same stuff - grass. Yet a deer excretes little pellets, while a cow turns out a flat patty, but a horse produces clumps. Why do you suppose that is?" The atheist, visibly surprised by the little girl's intelligence, thinks about it and says, "Hmmm, I actually have no idea." To which the little girl replies, "Well then, do you really feel qualified to discuss God, Heaven and Hell, or life after death, when you don't know S h i t?" And then she went back to reading her book.
  10. 1 point
    Gotta take a poke at him again...
  11. 1 point
    The subject matter has been discussed for years and all diesel enthusiasts/owners know how important it is to maintain proper levels of fuel pressure via the "transfer pump" or Lift Pump for reliable operation. There are many requirements that each owner/operator may wish to achieve in replacing the OE Carter or perhaps making an aftermarket selection. Notably, most have had the rude awakening of a failed VP44 following the failure of the Lift Pump in a too late scenario. The cost of a VP44 compared to the Factory (Carter) Lift Pump is considerable and many of us have learned the hard way. The general consensus among the vast majority is to eliminate the factory OE Carter pump and invest in a robust Class 8 aftermarket system. There are several companies that offer such devices with different performance levels and packaging. Many, come complete with new 1/2" fuel lines, mounting structures, fuel fittings and electrical control harnesses. Some companies offer more modest devices with a budgetary aspect at minimum level. All of this becomes apparent when a conscientious owner/operator begins the research to purchase a new device or system. I for one have stopped reading "Lift Pump" threads because it's so very painful...and I've already seen so many stories of the same old blah blah blah! No, I am not being insensitive to a fellow CTD owner's plight...after all, this is most likely a "new to Diesels" type person. The post is reaching out to the "experienced" diesel enthusiasts for suggestions and perhaps constructive feed-back, prior to making that large investment. Confidence from fellow CTD owners in what they may have purchased or installed goes a long way with the new guy or lady looking for an answer. For just a moment allow me a little latitude...Oh God! Not another Lift Pump story ...Yes but, not what you might think. This will drill-down in a different manor so, please bare with me. The factory OE "Carter" is such a little peanut-whistle why did Dodge do this? The fact is, as many know quite well, the decision was Daimler Chrysler who dictated to Cummins to provide the complete CTD engine package as a drop-in module. Carter's specifications states that, "this pump is to be located within 18 inches of the fuel supply"...it's sad to know these details greatly after the fact. This detail was covered 20 years ago on nearly every diesel website worldwide. This led to the unfortunate degradation of the Carter transfer pumps reputation. In actuality, the Carter LP (lift pump) has excellent design characteristics! At first glance the appearance seems a bit "puny" but, let's look at some of the "not so apparent features"... First of all, Carter is a very large world-wide company who provide a vast selection of produced articles. They also provide excellent technical documentation regarding the application of their products in numerous industrial devices, automotive, marine and aeronautical systems or platforms. Electro-mechanical pumps of this nature, are just a single product that they produce... In our application, CTD's are at first, supplied copious amounts of diesel fuel at acceptable levels to operate the engine and provide flow-through for critical cooling of the VP44 in return to the fuel tank. This is "how" the designed system was to perform. We know as experienced CTD owners that this was not always the case. Many of us know the error of mounting this little well designed pump nearly 10 feet forward of the fuel supply (not to specification of Carter Inc.) and ask this little pump to draw fuel through a small 1/4" line and....force the liquid through "banjo-bolt" fittings as delivery to the VP44? Wow...it's an unreasonable expectation for an electro mechanical pump, that most likely, costs less than $20 to produce in the Philippines. None the less, how many of us have had the occasional chat with a CTD owner (who knows nothing) that tells you they purchased the 2nd Gen new, he has 187K miles and has NEVER replaced the VP44 (he doesn't know what a VP44 is...you just taught him the word) and NO...he has never put a fuel pump into his truck! Yeah ! You know what I'm talking about ! How can this be ? Well...I guess some folks are a lot more lucky than I am... heck...this guy doesn't even know about 2 Stroke for lubricity,... credit our GodFather @Mopar1973Man This photo is well known as a starting point. Also, a depiction of what Cummins had to do to appease Daimler Chrysler's request of a "drop in module" CTD Okay...what is "a well designed pump"... even if it is not mounted correctly? At Carter, where they have been doing this longer than any of our familiar after-market LP suppliers... please note: 1... A fully enclosed hermetically sealed electro-machanical device that allows the liquid fuel to act as a cooling medium and fully immerses the active armature of the 12 volt DC motor to never exceed the temperature of the supplied liquid (diesel fuel)...because it is "airless" (hermetically sealed) there is no ignition to cause flammability. It's liquid cooled ! 2... The entire body or "encapsulation" as hermetic, provides absolute closure or isolation of the motor-brushes as they kiss the surface of the armature in run condition. This is very important as a DC (direct current) motor with carbon pile brushes act as a wild uncontrolled sparking noise source generator !!! This is a normal phenomena of any analog DC brushed motor. A given manufacturer of brushed DC motors, depending on purpose, will take steps to "silence" the electrical (RF noise generation)...the term "purpose" needs clarification... "if the motor is a "CCS" continuous commercial service (runs all the time) then, additional electronic filtering or "shunting" of the armature must be provided. 3... Carter Inc. employs RF Engineers (BSEE graduates minimum) to accomplish technical requirements when contracted specifications are to be adhered to for final product production. An expensive platform in any industrial production would have a string of engineers along with design engineers specking' components or assemblies that will be encapsulated within the finalized product. This occurred in "our" beloved CTD's with electro mechanical LP's....the Carter is "RF quiet" for continuous run condition. Let's examine the electronic terminals of the Carter LP Note: The plastic weather-guard assembly directly attached to the full metal housing that contains the + & - 12 volt DC ! 4... This connection point provides the direct current to power this LP. I wish you to fully understand what you're looking at. As viewed you'll note "both Plus+ and -minus" is provided at this connection point. You must also NOTE, the + and - are arriving directly from a single "pair" connection of both + & - .... I know you'll think I'm stating things "twice" and I want you to know this is an attempt to be a "balanced" feed. The housing of the pump is fully DC grounded when it is attached to the mounting bracket. In a "balanced" feed the "minus" or "negative" is NOT directly at chassis ground...it is merely + and - of the source (12 volts DC in our case) the body of the pump IS directly grounded but, the "source" is isolated from the pump body. Put your Ohm meter on either terminal and touch the pump body....there is NO direct DC continuity in a "balanced" source. This is a sexy way of making things very "quiet" electronically. Professional audio studios are fully balanced systems using "Cannon" connectors with three terminals. One is "plus" Two is "minus" and Three is "shield ground"....hence, balanced and NO Hum or Static noise. (Hey...those guys at Carter make a quiet pump...it's wimpy but, damn quiet) Okay...now let us examine what is going on internally on the back side of the connection point. A careful surgery, with hack-saw in hand, to remove the hermetically sealed body cover and expose the multi-octave filter or "shunting" design of this Carter LP. The double sided epoxy circuit board with modern surface-mount chip capacitors is excellent. This board is located directly at the input of the 12 volt source with virtually zero component lead length (surface mount) to provide shunting of the make and break contact that the brushes are doing directly at the armature when in "run" condition. This DC motor is virtually by-passed or shunted for any RF noise or "spiking" all the way passed 450 MHz! NOTE ! I did say "spiking" or should I say... "ripple"... this is a source of nasty "ripple" directly connected to the entire 12 volt DC rail of our beloved CTD's Quality engineering of analog DC motors remove such garbage before it is introduced to devices such as aircraft, fighter jets, military assault platforms, nuclear submarines and civilian automobiles. There are many preferred after market suppliers of fuel pumps or systems available and many are quite note worthy when it applies to providing solid reliable fuel flow. Many of these platforms exceed the requirements in "fuel flow" for the average diesel enthusiast. Sometimes choices are made because the owner has future plans of building enhanced performance characteristics. Some choose additional GPM for the insurance of added cooling by the "return flow" system design. All of the after market manufacturers of the upper end platforms do this with ease and price the devices accordingly. Caution in selecting any device that may cause unknown after effects in any mobile platform. The CTD 2nd Gen, is something I've looked at carefully for many years and I've made concerted efforts to correct some electrical over sites for the betterment of these noble platforms. I too have made large investments and the after market LP selections are not cheap. I was exceptionally disturbed when I successfully installed an after market LP system. The extreme effort to correctly and cleanly install the system along with all the cool JIC fittings and complete the project with pride that someone may examine my work was all accomplished. Then I shortly discovered the absolute short comings of my nearly $900 investment. I blamed myself for not test operating the device on a test bench and viewing the horrendous RF interference HASH that took out everything from 500 KHz (just below the commercial broadcast band) to well above 500 MHz. Is this important to you?... It is and perhaps it has not become apparent by the way such broadband RF interference manifests itself within a closed stand alone 12 volt system. To make these statements to you, the reader, let me be clear, I use and own a Hewlett Packard 8921A Digital RF test device, at $24,000.00 ...one must be "a fully certifiable crazy idiot" to have this along with a Tektronix 200 MHz 4 channel scope...and someone asked..."Do you need such instruments to look at $25.00 DC motors"...no but, I'm fully confident in my findings. Let's take a look at the much enhanced DC motor of an after market LP...it is irrelevant as to the manufacturer...they are all the same. This is an initial basic disassembly procedure that needs to be performed. It's very easy to accomplish. Once you have the cookie opened you'll be able to view the end-plate where the carbon brushes reside in their respective holders. Many of these devices and earlier models vary by design in physical form but, they are all the same in regard to an end-plate with brush tube holders. Here is the end-plate removed from a different LP unit and we can see the very minimal by-pass engineering of a single .47 Mfd mylar capacitor directly across the two brushes. Note, the lead length. This is typical of an inexpensive analog DC motor...I'll estimate the average wholesale cost of this to be somewhere around $10 to $15 US dollars. It would vary greatly, according to quantity buying levels. The only capacitor seen here is barley a by-pass or shunt...I'd prefer to call this a carbon brush protector. As the armature spins in normal operation, the "make" and "break" of the brushes riding against the armature where "flame" occurs...this cap is merely removing or dampening the "spark" and aiding brush-life longevity. At .47 Mfd it's really only helping at the lowest frequencies to roll off the RF spiking, also with long leads, transversing the distance between the two brushes does not help with the higher frequencies of this wild free-running spark-gap transmitter. This is a far cry from the excellent by-passing techniques incorporated into the wimpy little Carter device. Let us take a look at the fix procedure to begin " RF silencing" one of these very substantial LP platforms. We can't be as effective as the fully closed hermetically sealed package but, with careful effort you can knock this "ripple hash" down by 40db or better in just this simple step. The procedure above depicts a simple "drill and tap" technique using small machine thread hardware. 6/32 or 10/32 should suffice. You can use what ever hardware is available in your junk box as long as it is small enough to fit into the limited working space. Purchasing a small tap and companion drill at your local hardware store to match your "screw-thread pitch" is very low in cost. The skill required to do this is modest, just take your time and carefully hand-cut your threads gently. The cast aluminum end-caps are very easy to drill and tap. NO 9% IPA's should be consumed prior to drilling! Keep your hole straight and pay attention to the "depth" of your drill. With the armature removed you can "eye-in" an approximate location for the mounting hole to accommodate the miniature "lug"...this is where you make an accurate decision of the "angle" for the lug's contact arm to avoid contact with a spinning armature in "run-mode". You must also consider component "lead length"...keep this EXTREMELY short...it will be like working on a Swiss watch in confined space. NOTE: You must loctite your threads! This procedure is introducing component count within a very critical area...errors in loose components will be catastrophic !!! You will make NO errors here! Sorry...my photo is fuzzy. The photo below is zoomed-out for examination of component placement within the end-cap structure. It is tight but, it is precise and highly efficient. This depicts component selection: two each .1 Mfd silver Mica 100 volt dipped packages. I happened to have these in my junk box and standard miniature ceramic caps would also suffice. This completes the "critical" internal modification to initially "RF silence" the armature brush contact event point. I buy electronic components/parts from DigiKey or Mouser...these two capacitors will set you back about 30 cents each...your shipping cost will be ten bucks! Boy...I miss those cheesy little Radio Shacks. It was so convenient to buy little things like this for little money within my own community. Times have certainly changed. Now, carefully reassemble your enhanced LP device and mount it into it's operational nest on the vehicle. The photo below is the final step in this procedure. Again, this shunt capacitor is a .1 Mfd Orange drop package rated at 100 volts. I do prefer this package over standard Ceramic disks under the hood within engine compartments due to heat stress. These maintain tolerance over an extremely wide temperature range. The shortest leads possible, again, is the goal...the lead is directly connected to the relay socket where the 12 volts DC is connected through the relay contacts, that when "closed", provides DC excitation to the LP. I could have made these leads shorter but, I utilized the present ground on the firewall for convenience. Insert the relay back into the socket. This now completes the entire procedure. The monetary expenditure amounts to less than $1.00 for the capacitors. The time involved is substantial. The $689.00 plus dollar, advanced LP platforms available should have arrived fully prepared for trouble free installation and operation. The design engineering staff at Dailmer Chrysler would have never introduced an uncontrolled CCS constant run DC motor device into their platforms at any level. Cummins also, would have never allowed a DC pump without qualification standards to be specified for any production platform. The factory OE Lift Pump from Carter is a very under powered volumetric unit and their is no debating that short coming however: electronically it's design is superior in every aspect. The entire hermetically sealed housing acts as a complete Faraday Shield to fully encapsulate all electromagnetic static fields of force. It is a "dead silent" RF void device! This is just an example...all of the after market companies tout their prowess in delivering liquid fuel at astounding levels of performance, be it a stock engine or perhaps an extremely high horse powered competition street killing monster. None of them provide a civilized RF silenced DC motor to prevent "other" electronic automotive control elements from being harmed when operated within the confined structure of the vehicle. Note: not one bit of verbiage regarding the actual DC motor that powers the device! But, it pumps fluid like heck! I so dearly appreciate the flow factors, the filter systems, the mounting structures and comprehensive packages to alleviate all the short comings of my dismal factory transfer pump issues. Knowing well, that I'll never allow my one thousand dollar plus VP44 from ever being fuel starved again, by selecting an aftermarket LP system...only to realize afterwards, that the introduction of this major investment into my vehicle is now causing electronic issues, else where, within the vehicle! The expensive sound systems, vehicle speed sensing systems, erratic operation of TC lock-unlock, cruse control abnormalities, and radio communications equipment. All of these things at one time operated without error, you enjoyed the accurate trouble free aspects of your prized motor vehicle, then...something happened! Being cautious about adding any electronic implement into a trusted vehicle is always prudent. Asking the right questions before hand is always best practice. This information applies to ALL Vehicles regardless of manufacturer Ford, Chevy or Dodge. This article is following additional postings on this web-site...Mike Nelson @Mopar1973Man and Nick @Me78569are struggling to keep this small and independent site operational. I am not affiliated with any supplier or manufacturer...I am a contributing customer who appreciates the time proven and solid information/guidance these two men provide to the diesel community. I humbly share this knowledge with the CTD fraternity with enthusiasm, for the improvement of our platforms...may I ask a very small favor...if you find the information on this site of value could you please consider making a one dollar donation to the site to keep the lights on Thank you, Respectfully, W-T
  12. 1 point
    That's a good modification to do. W-T was amazed the factory could have done those grounds so wrong in the first place.
  13. 1 point
    Proof of the pudding is in the pie Just think screens in that condition together with sub zero temperatures. Dodge engineers messed up not having a primary filter you can have access and change on regular intervals.. First mod to both my 01 and my 02 was cutting out those screens and adding a primary filter.
  14. 1 point
    That was not cheap back in 2000.
  15. 1 point
    It's possible for sure, I just order online and stuff shows up, I have never talked to them. So far their stuff has been good. Some useless math fun...... Just a thought.........From my first order number in 4/4/18 to my last order number the numbers are 2,686 apart, guess 31 days in a month 15 months, it could be avg 5.91 orders a day every day. So they are pretty steady, and that could just be the online sales, that could be a totally fake number not used for that purpose at all... If they have a 1/2 of 1% accuracy that means 13ish orders are screwed up over that time,,,,, my guess is it's more that that. So yeah you always hear the bad stories over the good ones. I have successfully screwed up about that many orders (13) in the same time period and I'm no where near that volume of orders. I probably take that many complaint calls in a 2 day period. Wheres my quote, when is my stuff getting here, you said Tuesday 4 Thursdays ago. Very hard to please all folks but almosy all of them appreciate my efforts.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    I won't short cut the chicken leg either. Might try to catch Foghorn Leghorn for the special occasion. At 6'2" there's not many I have to 'look up to'. Dave's one of the not many
  18. 1 point
    I thought about, and probably will cut and zip tie some rubber hose around the problem area. I'd still like to replace the clips though. I'll try to get Dripley to come up sometime. Maybe he'll come for a case of beer and an BBQ chicken leg?
  19. 1 point
    Transfer case in neutral?
  20. 1 point
    It is not tire height it is rolling circumfrence. Use an online calculator to figure out the right number to use. Bad news for you on the injectors. I would suggest you sell and get proper VP injectors. DDP uses marine nozzles which = heat and smoke. general rule of thumb's 100's = 7 x .009 150's = 7 x .010 200's = 7 x .011 250's = 7 x .012 there is ALOT of wiggle room to that. You could try running a 7 x .011 tune, but I have had nearly no luck tuning DDP injectors. last guy that did it had to run my 7 x .013 tune to clean up his 7 x .010's and even then it was hot and smokier than it should have been.
  21. 1 point
    1injection pump, tranny rebuild at 280k Rest had just been maintenance. For 15 years she stayed with me. Through 3 relationships I couldn't repair. Lol Heres to another 300k. At 300725 now. Cant post a picture but snagged one of the odometer at 300000
  22. 1 point
    Bumping 310 sunday dont know how much shes got left. Been rolling about . Posting so I can track time/miles
  23. 1 point
    Yup. it helps a bunch being I see -20*F to -40*F up here every winter at least one day to one week. Never gelled once yet.
  24. 1 point
    The screens at the bottom of the fuel module eventually clog or varnish. They shouldn't be there because how do you change out a fuel filter when you have no access to it? There needs to be a good lift pump that always stays above 14 mounted on the frame so you can have a filter in front of it so the lift pump is protected from garbage in the fuel. They make plumbing insulation and the thick commercial stuff is available at plumbing supply hoses, comes in different sizes to snap on cover different size hoses. Some big enough to cover big filter big lift pump. The fuel lines and lift pump needs to go on the inside side of the frame for best results from cold. I would get something covering the tank bottom. Something like sleeping bag ground matt insulation to cover the tank bottom.... maybe wrap the whole tank. They make big long zip ties from heating and air conditioning supply houses too.
  25. 1 point
    I've got a tidbit to toss in here... I made a few phone calls and found out from Eric at Vulcan Performance that the 2010+ intank lift pumps are actually pretty good pumps now. For stockish truck you could use one possibly. He explained you would have to modify the lift pump module so it would fit the tank. Ive got a friend in Ontario that is willing to be the test dummy for this and will be soon retrofitting this 2010+ pump in his 2002 Dodge truck.
  26. 1 point
    I have noticed used vehicle prices rise steadily too.Besides becoming rare, I think the older vehicles seem to go up in value because a new truck will cost you 50k give or take! A new-used will be 30k! All of a sudden that 20 year old truck looks good for 10k...Keep a few K on the side for upgrades and Good to go. What do 2nd gens with 200k miles go for in your neck of the woods? https://honolulu.craigslist.org/big/cto/d/tyro-2002-dodge-2nd-generation-cummings/6935504928.html Not sure what this guy is smoking! Drugs are bad! 25k obo! Thats extreme, but you will see most of them above 10k with high miles and beat up here Nice ones will be asking 15k i guess. Bought mine for 7K over 8 years ago with 111k mi. Got a great deal as brakes were fried and scary shaky to drive and no one wants an automatic.
  27. 1 point
    Lol...isn't that the same technique that she uses on you?
  28. 1 point
    No problem...they do also offer stocker over s475 kits as well that are cheaper since you already have the smaller turbo...like your situation. I want to say around $2700-2900. The only wastegate is a diaphragm style on the 362 that tubes into the s475. So the wastegate reads the s475 pressure and gradually decreases flow to the 362 as the 475 spools up. The 475 is not wastgated. Do a web search on DPS twins or compounds and you'll see others experiences as well. PM me your email address and I'll send you pics of my setup.
  29. 1 point
    Electrical gremlins will make you crazy if you are already not.
  30. 1 point
    Replacing injectors on a CR engine isn't much different that changing injectors on a 24V. There is a few differences but the process is the same. First you need to make sure the fuel rail area is clean. Best to take a power washer and blow all the crud and dirt off the fuel rail side of the head. Remove the intake horn and grid heater. Pack a few rags in the intake to prevent anything from falling in by chance. Now you need to remove the fuel rail and all the connecting lines to the head. It will come out in one piece with the rail and the lines attached. Be aware the overflow valve has a banjo and sealing washers on top and bottom. There is a few wires to remove. The two injectors control plugs on the driver side of the head. There are two sensors there on the intake. Now remove the valve cover. You should be looking at the injectors and the wiring for them. Take a 8mm socket and remove all the connections. Then lift the wiring gasket up and out. 10mm socket and remove all the exhaust rockers. I suggest laying a rag out and laying them all out in the order removed. This way you can put back without adjusting the valve lash all over again. Suggested to do a valve lash after removing the rockers. You'll need a 24mm wrench for removing the crossover tube nuts. Socket will work but the back might be a bit too limited. Now using a small flat blade screwdriver you can lightly pry the connector tubes out. Suggested to replace the crossover tubes. Now with a 8mm socket you can remove the two bolts holding each injector down. Using a flat blade screwdriver hook the solenoid collar and carefully pry upwards out of the head. When it does come up make sure to check for the copper washer on the tip and no left in the head. Assembly is fairly straight forward as well. Now when installing the injectors you can place each injector in its hole make sure to locate the crossover hole towards the driver side. Another way to see it is the hold down collar is square toward the front and rounded towards the rear at least for the 2006 I have here. Now you need to seat the injector in its hole tighten the injector hold down to about 44 inch/pounds. This is only to push the injector into the head. I used a nut driver and 8mm socket and tighten till the injector is fully seated and backed off the bolts till loose again. Now you can push each crossover tube into place. Do note the position of the locating balls on the shank they face upwards might twist just a little bit to find the notch. Now twist in the crossover tube nuts. Torque them to 11 foot/pounds. Now you can torque the injector hold downs to 89 inch/pounds. Now you switch back and do a final torque of the crossover tubes to 37 foot/pounds. Lay the the integrated gasket / wiring down and lightly torque the nuts to 11 inch/pounds. Just much easier having the 8mm nut driver and lightly tighten the nuts. Be aware over tighten will damage the injector and this is a very expensive mistake not to make! Now you can install the rocker arms. This is why I lay them out in order then you can get them back in place without having to do a valve lash adjustment. The bolt is torqued to 27 foot/pounds. It is suggested to do a valve lash adjustment but you can quickly check after installing the rockers if that is needed or not with a feeler gauge. You can now install the fuel rail and connect all the lines again. Make sure to get both sealing washer on the overflow valve. Don't forget the supply tube from the CP3. Slip in the valve cover and tighten down. Install the grid heater and the intake horn. Priming is simple. Loosen only #1 injector line. Crank for about 5 seconds you should have fuel dribbling out. Now tighten and crank again it should start right up in about 5 seconds of cranking. View full Cummins article
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Don't shoot Dripley, usually a few chicken feathers shows under the disguise. uses it to go after the females
  33. 1 point
    We been below normal by quite a lot here in Oregon for the whole month of February and beginning of March. I work outside mostly cause there's woman inside so outside is more peaceful and serene. Has it been colder than normal for most you guys further east? A warm up is on it's way after at least 6 weeks of unusual cold so I'm hoping it's headed your way too. kzimmer, my boat is 11'-6" and have to blow it up.
  34. 1 point
    A couple of weeks ago looking out my window, - John
  35. 1 point
    Vehicle: "B" series Category: Other Dodge & Chrysler Products Date Added: 2019-03-07 "B" series
  36. 1 point
    Gents, A few years ago I ... ok a really good friend of mine who is a wizard of a mechanic helped/did a lot of it... we stuffed a 4BT into a 71 Ford. We ended up doing a lot more then just the engine. Dana 44 out of a 78 F250 (disk brakes) Power steering box out of a 78 Power brakes using the chev bread van hydro boost 5 speed from a 90s ford with a mated 205. About all thats original is the body, frame, and dana 60 rear. I tried my hand at Youtube and still post videos from time to time. I think i am up to 8 videos, some of them are probably a little boring. My future plane is to actually tune the pump to decrease smoke and hopefully increase power. I am also thinking about flatbed-ing it this winter. Thought I would share.
  37. 1 point
    Soon to come... W-T simplified ground mod article. I did mine without buying very much stuff at all... All wire was reused!
  38. 1 point
    I need to replace the engine harness in my TDI. I just thought I'd share some pictures: The reason I have to replace it is because there are a couple poorly protected areas of the harness where the wire jackets suffer vibration damage. This is one of those spots. The harness is wrapped with harness tape everywhere, except for here [below]. For this section, they stopped wrapping with tape, and substituted with this semi-translucent black fabric that kinda looks like really thin and very fine-pitch velcro. This section of wire is prone to chafing as it wraps around the oil-filter housing. In my amateur opinion, it makes no sense to "protect" this section by removing the protective tape and replacing it with this thin cloth. Until I saw this, I was going to add an extra layer of tape to protect it. But now, not knowing why they did this, I'm stuck wondering if that would make it worse. There's also this one additional section that has the same treatment. No Idea why.
  39. 1 point
    Correct, Speaking to the Service Manager he said that the warranty rate for 2 year pumps was 1.5% and the 1 year pump was about 3%. Midwest has been great to work with!
  40. 1 point
    Just noticed there is a different head on the block. The first gen head has a fuel filter boss on the bottom of the intake manifold. I'm assuming this is a later series 94-98 head.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Gotta love it. I respect people's choices and liberties, that's the beauty of this country! But, I am sick of this getting crammed down our throats everyday in the main stream. Like that make up commercial with all the women and then the guy whos a girl, or dressed like a girl with make up, I don't even know. You can thank all the "do good feel good" politicians and activist groups, and wonderful heart filled brainless people that support them that don't stand for anything.
  43. 1 point
    2002 Dodge Ram Engine Wiring
  44. 1 point
    Install looks good!Depending on your mods that 6637 may not flow quite enough as its only rated for 425 CFM where the 2790 is rated for 680 CFM.
  45. 1 point
    I do not have a cover. I wash the motor all the time. Water will not hurt anything.
  46. 1 point
  47. 0 points
    That video show a GM conversion. They're OK, but not worth the extra money, in my opinion. The Borg HD will do everything that the GM conversion will do, but at 1/3 the price. Besides, the GM conversions use the late model Delphi EPC solenoid out of the 4L60E. I used to run into a ton of those things that would stick in the closed position when they got some miles on them. Many a 4L60E got to come across my bench due to a stuck solenoid (no line pressure rise). While the GM solenoid doesn't control line pressure in the Dodge conversion, it's still the same solenoid, and I've seen them stick in the Dodges, too (no governor pressure rise; no upshift). I'm just not a big fan of them, especially at 3 times the price of a part that has had excellent service, even a very high line pressures. As for Cascade, if you can get parts from them, count yourselves lucky. I used to spend thousands of dollars buying parts from him. The only problem was that he wanted the tens of thousands of dollars in business that I spent elsewhere. Every time I would talk to him (back when they actually had a phone number and you could talk to someone), he was always trying to convince me that I should bring all of my business to him, and most annoyingly that the Exedy frictions that he carried were superior to everything else on the market (because they were OEM in Honda applications, he would say). I would always politely decline because I have 2 local warehouses that deliver the parts I use (not Exedy, BTW...) twice a day, and that buying from him and waiting 2 days for UPS to bring my order made little business sense. He had some good prices on certain OEM stuff (48RE OD housings, 48RE direct drums, etc.), and that's what I would buy. Over time, I found other sources for that stuff, and I quit using him altogether. Last year, I had a BMW transmission (one of my personal cars) apart, and needed some frictions for it. Lo and behold, he showed them in stock, and at a good price. I was headed off to SEMA, so I'd be gone for a week, so I ordered them from him. The order was placed online (due to them not having a phone number anymore), and off I went to SEMA for the week. When I got back, I went to put the BMW back together and...no frictions. They showed that they had not even shipped; in fact they showed no activity at all on my account. I checked my credit card and sure enough, they had pulled the funds from me, but no parts. I contacted them (email, no phone...) to hurry this along as I now had a BMW X5 tying up my lift. No response...ever. I eventually had to contest the charges on my card, and get my parts elsewhere. Apparently the fraction of my business that I did with him was not enough, and he kicked me to the curb. Quite disappointing, I would say... Your mileage may vary...
  48. 0 points
    Not related to the cold and gelling problem but I had mentioned how bad the inside of my in-tank lift pump screens were so I thought I'd share a picture I took after prying the pump out of the way...
  49. 0 points
    Cummins failure found. The thermostat body separated. Weld between the body and disc broke.
  50. 0 points
    Here's the card......it's obvious now. At the store in the card isle as a man, I shouldn't have to watch for this kinda crap.
This leaderboard is set to Boise/GMT-06:00
×
×
  • Create New...