• Announcements

    • Mopar1973Man

      Quadzilla Tunes   06/12/2017

      QUADZILLA TUNE REPOSITORY - There is now a Quadzilla tune download area. When you submit a tune file to the download area it will automatically create a forum topic that allows discussion of your tune. So export your tune and upload it to the site. Then we all can help out in building better tunes. Check it out gang...
    • Mopar1973Man

      911 Support Group   06/22/2017

      Hey Gang, I've got the 911 support group database back up and running once again. It's listed in the 911 support category. It will allow members to list their contact information and location so other have a listed of members to call upon in the time of need. So if you wish to support other member please stop by and add your listing into the database. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/911-support.html/contacts/

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 05/26/2017 in all areas

  1. 8 likes
    As awesome as the PW is, I found something i like better for less! My grail c body cars are 60-61 chrysler and 66 chrysler 300. Very clean car, 1 owner, 383RB 2bbl, push button auto. The only rust is in the trunk floor, even the fenders and trunk extensions are clean. Best yet, it runs! It needs a thorough once over before being driven, but everything works! Not bad for 2500 bucks! I hope to put a megasquirt tbi efi system on it, recover the seats, new exhaust and drive it!
  2. 6 likes
    Odometer as of June 12, 2017... Roughly speaking... 370 miles per day 1,110 miles per week 4,440 miles per month 26,640 miles for the last 6 months of travel. The things you'll do for your family...
  3. 6 likes
  4. 5 likes
    Pre vs post is a variable that is generally linear with boost. There is about a 100° difference for every 10 psi of boost. This was a rule of thumb I had heard and after running a pre and a post turbo for a couple of years it's pretty darn accurate. The biggest difference I have seen on my setup is about 300°. The hottest post turbo temps I have seen is 1050° towing with a lot of power at 1800 rpms for a short time. The pre turbo temps were about 1200° and I was only making 15-18 psi... there is that rule of thumb. I prefer pre temps for some things and post temps for others. Post is a better indication of turbo cool down prior to shut down, and a better indicator of motor heat soaking. My post temps are always higher with low rpms/boost and a load. Post temps aren't ever even close to an issue above 2000 rpms. Pre temps are much faster reacting that post temps. If you're going to have one I recommend pre, but a single post is still useful if you know how to interpret them. It's not hard but there aren't a lot of people talking about post temps so it's harder to research. Most OEM pyro's, that I am aware of, are post turbo. 1250° pre is also just a rule of thumb. Timing and rpms will have the biggest effects on what acceptable EGT's are. For reference the QSB 480 5.9L marine engine, 480hp at 3400 rpm, has a manifold temp of 1301° at rated rpm/power. The turbine out temp is 925° and boost is 35 psi....pretty darn close to 100° per 10 psi. I always recommend against this procedure. What happens if you break a bit? You buy a new turbo!!!! You also have the turbo spinning at idle speed so any shavings that do go thru the turbo, which will happen, are going to hit the turbine blades with a high rate of impact. The higher the impact speed the higher the potential for damage. The best way, IMHO, is with the motor off on a cold motor, and don't use grease. The way a drillbit is designed to work will keep nearly all of the shavings out of the manifold. Just before you break thru hit it with a little compressed air to clean out the hole and then drill thru. The few shavings that do fall into the manifold will be blown thru the turbine wheel long before it gets enough speed up to do any damage. I also don't recommend grease because any shavings that are covered in grease that fall into the manifold won't get blow out until the grease melts which means the bits of shavings are hitting a spinning turbine wheel.
  5. 5 likes
    If you use the engine running method, you get extra redneck points for stuffing a piece of firewood in the exhaust pipe while doing it.
  6. 5 likes
    Pretty sure they will rent these at the door
  7. 5 likes
    I added a MSD ignition system. The old distributor was shot with no vacuum advance and the timing parts drifting all over the place. The parts to rebuild it aren't in production and NOS parts are extremely expensive on eBay. The choice was either get a new Mopar electronic ignition system or an MSD. I found a good deal on the MSD kit, and it was about the same price as a Mopar kit. It has way better power now! I kinda think that the original points distributor was jumping about 3-5 degrees at idle and not advancing at higher RPM. All my old cars will have MSD distributors from here on out. Well worth every penny. All it needs is a 12v source and a ground. It came with all timing adjustment springs, bushings, the coil even came with the prong to bypass the ballast resistor. It even has a built in rev limiter! Not bad at all, especially as a factory refurb unit! Next is the right front brake, which is leaking fluid. The car stops ok, but it likely needs a cylinder or line. I am going to take a look at both wheels. The rear drums are pressed on, so I am not going to look at those til I need to. After that, new exhaust, trunk floor, seat covers, the speedo needs tuned up, window tracks need cleaned on the rear doors and I have some vacuum lines to chase down. I will rebuild the carb when I get around to it, but it runs well enough now that I am not too concerned. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4LuU_ZKMucceHJ4ZDJsLTBVcDg/view?usp=sharing
  8. 5 likes
    Update: Runs & Drives... Ok, it occasionally coughs, but hey, it was in a coma for 8 years. It just needs an enema! After Nick and I dove in early on, I kinda got in stuck in the trenches of newborn dad life. Currently the kid and I are kind of like North and South Korea. Some days, theres lots of sabre rattling and posturing but other days it is great. I took advantage of today and was able to get the other big stuff finished that Nick and I did not get done last time. What works The factory fuel system now works! The car has oil pressure! The original oil pressure sending unit gave up the ghost I think, as a manual gauge popped right to 40 pounds and stays steady. The car even has plates. The lifters still have an occasional rattle to let me know they are there, but I am hoping they are just gunked up and will loosen up with some quality oil and driving. The old generator system works flawlessly. Though by design it doesn't charge much at idle, it jumps right as soon as the RPM goes above 850 or so. The turn signals work, the brakes mostly work, the E brake works but doesn't disengage without an special verbal incantation I have developed with one hand under the dash fiddling with the mechanism. What don't work I need to reattach the brake light wiring to the master cylinder, as they were smoking from missing insulation. The speedometer cable is supposedly disconnected, no idea why. Passenger side rear window won't go down, hopefully an easy enough fix. Numerous little nuisance electrical items like the temp gauge, the dash switches need their 57 year old contacts cleaned, and the long out of production non gear reduction Bendix starter needs rebuilt. Chrysler has used the same starters since 1964, but that doesn't help me! The trunk floor has holes and the exhaust needs replaced. The only real show stoppers that I need to fix asap are the starter and I need to fix some holes in the copper radiator. Aside from all that its good to go! Hopefully I will be driving it to work daily very soon after a couple shakedown drives. https://youtu.be/OnJBEAYoH60
  9. 5 likes
    Crankcase Vent Modification for 24V Dodge Cummins Trucks People been asking for me to redo this article so here it is. Supplies you'll need... 1 stick of 1/2" PVC pipe (minimum of 57" long) 3 - 1/2" PVC elbows slip to slip 1 - 1/2" PVC elbow slip to NPT (male or female) 1 - 1/2" PVC straight connector slip to NPT (male or female) 3" piece of 3/4" heater hose 2 hose clamps 1 Small can of PVC glue Hacksaw Sharpie black marker Tape measure Can of spray paint 1 Zip tie 6" long Cut measurements 3" Heater hose 4 1/2" front down pipe 2 1/4" front cross pipe 24" long pipe 5" rear cross pipe 20 1/2" rear down pipe NOTE: These measure are my final cut measurements. I suggest cutting a tad long and adjusting as you see fit for your truck. So at this point you should have all your materials to assemble. You should assembly your cut pipe and fittings dry without glue and test fit everything. While test fitting be sure to remove all plastic cuttings from the ends of the pipes. Also when test fitting be sure to bottom out all pipes into the fittings. In the supply list I list PVC elbow and a straight connector (male or female) this is totally up to you. You can do either way as long as you have a male and female connection in the end. Now during my test fitting I was very careful to get the front section of pie back far enough so its not in contact with the upper radiator hose. On the rear section you have to be careful of the angle of your down pipe. I've got mine resting on the very tip of the bellhousing. Now that you fairly happy with your fit. Take a Sharpie marker and mark all the elbow positions with a fine line from the elbow to the pipe to note position. This way you can glue the pieces back together in the proper angles. When gluing all the pieces together be sure once again to bottom out all your pipes into the fittings. At this point you will want to stuff your 3" piece of heater hose on the front pipe. Need at least 1" of heater hose on the PVC pipe for clamping. Now take a rag and a bit of paint thinner or lacquer thinner and wipe all the oil and grime off the pipe assembly. Now take a can of spray paint of the wanted color. It's best to get a spray paint that is chemically correct for plastics. So you should have a completed Crankcase vent pipe for your truck now. All you have to do is lay it back up on top. Make sure you have your 2 hose clamps on before installing. Slip the heater hose over the crankcase vent nipple. Using the one zip tie tie the rear cross pipe to the top of the hoist ring. Carefully slide the down pipe down and screw on to the rear fitting. Opps. the Paint was completely cured.
  10. 4 likes
  11. 4 likes
    Good news! I replaced the water separator today, and the new filter eliminated 97% of my cavitation issues. So guess I got a bad filter last time.
  12. 4 likes
    Yes... This is correct. One of the primary benefits of a cast aluminum pan, in addition to carrying extra fluid.
  13. 4 likes
    Could be a valve body issue, but it could be a problem with the intermediate band or servo. "Built" automatics should not shuttle shift anymore than a stock one should. I build 200+ transmissions and valve bodies every year, and none of them shuttle shift. 😎
  14. 4 likes
    Well I've been wanting to install a toggle switch to engage and disengage my CAD for a while now and finally took the time today to tackle the project. It will allow me to use the low range on my transfer case and remain in 2wd. It's very handy when moving trailers around in tight spaces like steep driveways and such in the mountains where I'm primarily working. I used a Clifford MJTV-5 pneumatic toggle switch and 1/4" air brake line. @TFaoro this should work for you as well so you can eng/disengage your CAD.
  15. 4 likes
    The beauty of this is you can go to the Olive Garden for dinner and get your truck detailed too. Can't do that at Chick-fil-A.
  16. 4 likes
    The diagrams in the fsm and the descriptions in the parts manual are not helpful... 5/32" tubing and vacuum hose that fits 5/32 tubing is your friend. You have a funny connector or the vacuum pump. (it is where the red cap in the picture of the pump and the power steering. it connects to the hard tubing) I have also attached a schematic of the vacuum hoses. it is for a 4wd. just ignore the lines going to the cad and transfer case on a 2wd. To find the position of the tee... it is circled in red (sorry not my truck, just plucked from webz) Mine is close to there and looks similar. That looks like they have done some replacing already. You should be able to get everything you need at one of the zones..... but a real parts store might be a bit more of a help. HTH Hag
  17. 3 likes
    Welcome... Err um... Mopar Man... I would start out testing the alternator for excessive AC noise.
  18. 3 likes
    most likely non adjustable but needs to be the 2003 upgrade. No problem we can do it at the eclipse camp and take Michael Nelsons off his truck. He won't miss it.
  19. 3 likes
    Yeah but once you get past the mountains it's so flat that's where they have the school of pancake makining. LOL
  20. 3 likes
    Amen. We are just updating it once more now. Mad props to Me78569!
  21. 3 likes
    I buddy ran a cheap single ceramic he got off ebay for a while. When I pulled it out, it also had a 13" dual drilled flywheel with HD pilot bearing. So it's not necessarily from SB or Valair. I threw a 13" Organic in in its stead and he couldn't be happier.
  22. 3 likes
    I drilled mine engine off, put grease in the grooves, and pencil magnet when completed. Bumped the starter a couple times to blow any small bits through before officially starting it. Done this twice with no issues.
  23. 3 likes
    Drum brakes... bad, right? Old chrysler guys knew what they were about. Dual wheel cylinders, one for each shoe makes a very clean design. Even the 64 and later brakes are not as easy to rebuild. I wish our rams had drum adjustments on the rear like these. A 7 16ths socket actuates a cam which moves the shoe. Tighten til it rubs slightly, then back off. It doesnt have a wheel to click over an unknown number of turns hidden in a greasy hole like more modern designs.
  24. 3 likes
    I've install several FASS system but the filter are always still hanging in the damage path from the front tires. I've seen a few ranchers locally dent the filters from throwing stones from the dirt roads. All you need is one little hole and the system fails. I've also seen last winter where a FASS system froze up because of the bitter cold and was popping fuses not to mention it had gelling issues way more than my truck does. 15 years of bit cold winter down to -35*F and never gelled up once yet. This AirDog is heading for 12 years old and still pumping fuel without a single issue.
  25. 3 likes
    This sounds like a is a valve body issue, If you push hard on the pedal then lift up on it does the truck shift? I think this is a line pressure issue. shuttle shift is common with built automatics, but requires a different way adjust it. Your adding grounds from the battery to the alternator, i would do a voltage drop test on both the drivers and passenger side ground cables, and I'm not talking to just the connections, but the actual cable itself. I had a failing drivers side battery ground cable, and that was causing excessive noise onto the passenger battery, replacing both cables for me did fix my TC lock up issues.
  26. 3 likes
    It depends upon the converter and the way the valve body is calibrated. I run triples in every Cummins application, and the vast majority of them are on stock input shafts.
  27. 3 likes
    I don't want to steer you from front locker but from personal experience if you leave it open, less chance for breaking u joints and axles when you bite traction, especially wit oversized tires. I my opinion rear would be more important to lock. But I've been in plenty off road madness and had trucks with and without front locker and yes big difference. But how often are you going to be off road using it. Maybe removable winch that can be used front or back would be money better spent. My winch can go front back and on a trailer and truck is wired up so I can use it in all positions. Other than that I agree, might as well go through front end while you're at it.
  28. 3 likes
    I got a job that a 2001 Dodge was having lock up issues typically. Now the owner had the BD noise filter, the APPS wiring mod and ground mods. Still in all the truck ran with a surge and dropping of power. The old alternator I measured at 0.1 to nearly 0.2 volts AC. He replaced the alternator I measured today and its right about 0.04 to 0.05 marginal. Still the loss of power and surging. The owner has a Bank's tuner on so I opted to removing the MAP leads and return to stock and the Wire Tap. Went for a test drive and the problem is gone. Moral of this post is alternator noise can do damage to even 3rd party device like tuners.
  29. 3 likes
    I think Mike's point is if you have to add grounds to resolve a serious issue, then there is likely something else going on. Adding a gorund is not a bad thing, but expecting it to be a cure all is risky. Always ask yourself, if this was an actual issue related to a lack of ground wouldn't OEM have added a Ground? Just don't jump to the "add tinfoil ground" bandwagon without taking a indepth look at what is causing the issue. There may be a situtation where a new ground is required, but I find it way more likely that something else is going on to cause the need for a ground.
  30. 3 likes
    Do what this man is suggesting!! He's not just telling you for fun. Reset your apps using the write up in the article section here and once that's done, verify tv cable adjustment by doing what was mentioned by Dynamic. Sorry if this sounds hard but you've been given excellent advice and are still out doing your own thing, possibly making this worse, since you're smelling a burning transmission. Fix what's been suggested quickly before you cost yourself some major coin.
  31. 3 likes
    Got up this morning and the shop smells kind of skunky.
  32. 3 likes
    Try here... http://www.lmctruck.com/
  33. 3 likes
    http://www.skf.com/binary/30-283852/TT08_021.pdf Here is another link from speedi sleeve, a thin coat of loctite between sleeve and crank would probably aid in sealing
  34. 3 likes
    That's a lot of AC voltage, but I'm not 100% sure that's your problem if you're having shuttle shifts. Again, what governor pressure solenoid was used in the build? It looks like a pretty generic "box build", so I would guess they used a stock replacement, if they replaced it at all. This, coupled with installing a "shift kit" (likely a Transgo), can flood a stock solenoid and cause all manner of weird shuttle shifts. Set the TV cable so that your WOT 1-2 shift occurs at 2800-2900 rpm. If it occurs earlier than that, tighten it. If it occurs later than that, loosen it. Set it to 2800-2900 rpm...done. I guess beyond these things, I'd need a bit more thorough description of what the symptoms are. Yes, a well-built 47RE will put up with a whole lot more than just oversized tires with 3.55 gears. Ideally, whenever a tire size is changed, your differential gearing should be changed to match. Pretty much only the most thorough of customers actually do this. But, there's a lot more to being well-built than just a "shift kit" and "HD clutches"... Stepping off of soap box, before I even get started.........!
  35. 3 likes
    Congrats on 400k sitting at 323k and driven daily matter of fact it just got new rubber a month a a half ago and I can't believe I've already put 4k on the truck and new tires... I doubt I'll see 380-400 by the end of the year but I may be close. Treat em right and even at high mileage with the right setup you can give a new Mustang a run for it's money in a straight line that is.... to me that makes the truck worth it all on it's own
  36. 3 likes
    Yes, you can. I have had mine wired with a manual momentary toggle switch since the truck was new. It is simple to do and works very well. Since your truck is an 02, you should be able to use the attached wiring diagram. Find the two relays that control the intake heaters. They are located just below the driver's side battery and power distribution center. You will see the two relays side by side, each with two small gauge wires and push-on connectors. One wire on each relay comes from the ECM (12 volts when commanded) and the other wire on each relay goes to ground. Remove the two wires from the ECM side of the relay and protect them from the elements (the wires will no longer be needed). The wire colors (according to the diagram) are orange with a black tracer and yellow with a black tracer. Sometimes colors differ slightly. From an un-switched 12 volt source add a fuse, a momentary switch (your choice of location), and enough light gauge wiring to complete the job. The wiring and the switch will only need to handle less than 150 milliamps of current. Coming from your switch, connect to each exposed terminal of each intake heater relay The terminal posts are threaded, so you will need to provide a nut with the proper thread pitch for a secure connection. Codes P0380 and P0382 will be set, but should not activated the CEL. - John
  37. 3 likes
    I've got a single wire idea. Which makes the system really easy, no fuses, no worry of shorts, and a toggle switch.
  38. 2 likes
    Yes, but they are often the Fram made Mopar filters and not the Fleetguard made ones. I prefer Donaldson Blue filters. Nothing else touches their ratings or life.
  39. 2 likes
    Toyota 2006-2008 RAV4 with the 2AZ-FE engine has been experiencing high oil consumption due to poor piston rings and there is a service bulletin, T-SB-0094-11, that explains the fix. There are other Toyota models in the 2011 year with the same problem. Toyota is not the only car manufacture to experience this problem. The 2007-2011 Volvo 3.2L engine had the same problem due to poor piston ring material.
  40. 2 likes
    @WiscoRedkneck adrenaline, v2
  41. 2 likes
    I might not have pulled my bumper off and done it but it did make everything very accessible and easy to clean with the pressure washer. This is why I took mine apart so far. The worst problem I had was getting the seal to start. I tried using the dampener to get it started but the gear cover kept flexing and it would not start straight. The thing that saved me was on of the receiver cups in my ball joint press set fit the install tool perfectly. That allowed me to put a block of wood on it and hit it squarely. I was also able to support the cover directly under the opening so there was no flexing. Other than that is was a lot of bolt off bolt on.
  42. 2 likes
    More load=bigger difference in probes. You'll be fine for a while just move it asap. I have both and it can be 100-600 different.
  43. 2 likes
    Torch, grinder, welder, jack, tree, come along, big hammer, beer, sweat. Or body shop.
  44. 2 likes
    And when I say dyno I don't mean run a hard pull and measure torque hp # style run. The rollers are loaded and it's a steady run for a period of time to simulate real world working conditions.
  45. 2 likes
    My truck is like me, I creak and pop and squeak every once in while too. I fix what I can and learn to live with the rest.
  46. 2 likes
    Personally I won't worry about it. We went through the same scare about going from CI-4 to CJ-4... My truck is running fine still. I really doubt oil companies would sell an oil that causes damage. It would be one he'll of class action lawsuit.
  47. 2 likes
    The theory here is that the truck worked fine for the first 10 years of its life, adding grounds is most likely only a band aid fix for another underlying problem. Check your battery ground cables, mine were going bad, but still passed a voltage test, failed the vDrop test, and it was only the drivers side cable, passenger was passing. However replacing both grounds (the whole cable from engine to battery) did resolve my TC lock up problems.
  48. 2 likes
    4k tune is also posted in this section
  49. 2 likes
    Gear case bolts can come lose and fall out also.
  50. 2 likes
    If you solder the wires, which is fine, be sure to use heat shrink over the junction as a strain-relief.
This leaderboard is set to Boise/GMT-06:00