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    Mopar1973Man

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/20/2021 in all areas

  1. That was my bad personally as I have been out sick for a week and just getting back to work. As for the injectors we were hoping for a easy turn around like it was something simple but once receiving the injectors and testing them we had a few that were not popping off right, they had to do a complete tear down and set them back up before shipping nda back to you. This did take an extra day and I do apologize for that but wanted to make sure you got good product back and it was verified. We received the injectors from you on 9/27/21 and shipped them back to you on 9/29/21 Hope this helps out with any other questions, we do strive to make our customers as happy as possible If you have any other questions please feel free to give me a call. Thanks, Mitchell
    3 points
  2. A few weeks ago I pulled a buddy's 5'er to the campground for him since his truck was down. Well, long story short, he decided to sell and I bought it. A 1994 coachman 360RK imperial. Very nice camper. Took it out the first time this weekend and we love it. So much space compared to our '89 jayco 29' bumper pull. We camped in Quincy MI. Where my son and his wife have a seasonal spot. My other son came up and we all had a great time with 6 of our 14 grandkids here as well. The camper is an older model but in very good shape. Only issue I'd like to figure out without having to do major mods is the camper is high in front when hooked to my truck (2001 dodge ram 3500 4x4 dually). See pic below. It looks worse than it is in the pic, I'll get a better one later.
    3 points
  3. Check for air restriction. Start with air filter and intake then intercooler, grid heaters and manifold. Sometimes during rebuilds rags get shoved in places to keep things out and get left behind.
    3 points
  4. Anyone want to see pics of the inside? Here ya go. Inside is in very good condition, outside its a little dirty. She has the typical black streaks of an older rv. I'll be trying some "streak-x" to remove them and clean up the outside better.
    3 points
  5. I think he is getting that mpg, but he has his own driving style and set up that makes it possible. For me I just simply don't want any smaller tires then I got and I don't have patience driving at 60 mph. Beginning of this summer I wanted to see what I can get for mpg if I was trying, well I got close to 25 I think, can't remember exactly but I was excited, so it is possible but I don't have time or patience for it most of the time. I think @JAG1 can beat Mike's record the way he drives
    3 points
  6. I think mikes truck is being towed around by a heard of magic ferries thats why he gets such good fuel mileage and low egt pulling with stock hx35, now its got a turbo and seemingly floats around at an idle while whistling to the ferries or maybe whipping so mpg stays in check and exhaust drone bearable
    3 points
  7. So let me explain my set up a bit first. I have a man door on the side of my house behind a locked gate. Natural gas meter is on same side of the house 20 ft from door. Also a larger dog door. When I ran gasoline in the past the gen would set outside and run . I ran a cord thru the dog door to the homemade double throw to run the furnace then ran electrical cords thru the house garage to run freezers etc moving things about as needed. So my goal was to for some reason have the gen set by the door.So I could look after it and not have to do 20 ft of snow So I got 20 ft gas hose from them . I thought I could just turn the gas off and get a plug for the meter. They sent me a inline coupling with a shut off valve. I had a certified plumber put it on for 150$. He earned his money. Was there the next day I called and did a great job. The fittings were really tight etc My goal was to be able when the lights went out start the gen on gasoline them rather easily switch to natural gas. Save my spare propane and gasoline as back up in case the gas lines were broken . So after the install the kit came set up for propane. That’s where I thought I would start out then change the carb jet to natural gas a very simple job and move on but I had problems. The gen would not start on propane so I called them sent them pictures of the install etc We tried a second 20 lbs propane bottle. Both where full No start no fire run rough nothing. So in the process with winter fast approaching here I took the 20 lbs off my back porch grill and covered it for the winter . We use a smaller grill in the garage for winter Barbie just open the door. 20 lb was about half full and I had two other half fulls to fill before winter. So I tried the 1/2 bottle and it fired right up. Then I switched out the jet to natural gas and hooked that up. Best way to do it’s start the gen on gasoline 1 maybe two pulls then turn the gasoline on the gen off and when it starts to stumble turn the natural gas on and bring them together. Very soon you are then on natural gas works great. Now to teach my wife and neighbor and two step boys to do it if I’m not here. So I had a gas / air lock in the two full bottles When they fill them by weight and burp them I think it happens. I have a 20 lbs lay down propane in my slide in and when I fill it up it will not start the refer in the camper until I start the cook stove and let it burn a bit to relieve the gas/air lock. The same thing I’m sure. Questions ?
    3 points
  8. I just got a stock replacement and it's lasted 54k so far. Still tight. Whatever you do don't lift it. I learned the hard way not to do that. He gets ctreative and solves difficult problems just by pouring more beer.
    2 points
  9. Alright, hopefully this is the final update on this thread. Got the pump reinstalled early last week, and decided to take it for a drive with the new pcm I installed to establish a fresh benchmark before I swapped the old one back. Drove the truck about 45 miles and the issue was gone, ran great. Strange. Drove it another 45 and still everything is fine. Drove it to work everyday this week and haven’t had an issue. I even hooked it up to my flatbed and towed my skid steer and welder about 60 miles this weekend and didn’t had a problem. I did notice the rpm bounce slightly when returning to an idle from above 1500, particularly dropping from third to neutral but it’s not like it was before, and the truck isn’t acting like it wants to stall anymore. I checked the oil pretty religiously and there was a little diesel in it still but not like it was before, changed it a few days ago with a fresh filter and I don’t seem to be mixing fluids anymore, at least not anywhere near the way it was. I’ll have to keep an eye on it and change it again to make sure, but for now it seems to be fine. So... basically it seems to have fixed itself. The only thing I did different when I reinstalled my injectors and pump this time after having them tested, is I bought a brand new inch/lb torque wrench that I used to torque the hold down bolts with. Everything thing else I’ve done the same since the first time I installed all of those parts. Maybe my old torque wrench was junk and I wasn’t getting enough torque on the injectors? For now everything seems to be fine. I really appreciate everybody’s input and knowledge, and I’m sorry the whole thing got spread out over a few months, just didn’t have a lot of time to work on it lately. Kinda feel like an idiot if indeed it was just a torque problem and just throwing money at it but... live and learn I suppose.
    2 points
  10. First off let me say. I just had my transmission fluid change this summer. On my trip to Lewiston ID I had the Quadzilla on Level 2. I made it to the Casino outside of town and stop for a minute to grab a few things. Pulled back out on the highway rowed up through gear and it started clicking. WHAT?! Any gear had a very loud clicking noise even neutral as long as it rolling. I figure out pretty quick its was the input gear from the input shaft. Towed it home and pull the transmission. Yup you can twist the input and feel the gear is got broken teeth. NOTE: Remember the Quadzilla was on level 2 (stock fuel), fluid was just changed this summer and fresh and full. When I drained the fluid is was still clean but full of fine glitter. Now I opted for a different trans builder. I got a connection with a builder up near @Dynamic up there in Northeast Washington. The gents name is Jason Hammer. He dove in and looked over my transmission basically I wore the hard facing off the those gears with over 435k miles. Totally normal wear for those gear and distance since those gears never been changed. Now the countershaft is one unit and will be replaced as a full unit. I'll post up the carnage as soon as I go back up north 5 hours away to get my transmission. .
    2 points
  11. This is due to the torque converter allowing more slippage during launching. Still in all the low band (1,500) should be slightly retarded for launching. You should never be cruising near 1,500 realm really being it well below the torque curve of the engine. Like myself I design to get most of my travel time around 2,000 RPMs @ 66 MPH in 5th gear. One of the few factors of why I was able to break the old high mark of 27.2 MPG (Edge Comp and +50HP Injectors) now with 28.04 MPG is my high mark. (Quadzilla and +150 HP Injectors).When you get the timing dialed in you find the EGT drop like a rock. My 55 MPH is super low at 500*F even 65 MPH float about 550*F to 600*F. Two things I'll say timing is the MOST important setting. Then the fuel map should NOT just ramp up from low fuel to max fuel. Again timing your going to have to work with it till its figure out and provides the LOWEST EGTs. Fuel map you'll need a defuel realm to control smoke. Then I would create a STOCK fuel zone where most of the normal driving occurs. Then a POWER mode where when boost rises past your cruise mode it kicks in extra power. Since I live in the mountains and climb hills and grades (7 to 16%) I needed a wide cruise realm between 5 to 15 PSI which is all set for 100% fuel. Now above 15 PSI the fuel ramps up to 150% by the time it hits +30 PSI. Again this design is capable of 24 to 28 MPG. Just look 425 Miles on the trip and just slightly above 1/2 tank. Just quick rough math 1/2 tank is 17.5 gallons. 425 / 17.5 = 24.28 MPG !!! Quadzilla Adrenaline (My custom tune), 150 HP injectors (popped at 320 bar), HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12), 245/75 R16 tires (final ratio to the ground 3.69:1) Another trip... After all my running around I was down to a 3/4 mark and netted 28.04 MPG.
    2 points
  12. I ran your same setup for awhile except an auto trans. Ran real good! I would definitely get good gauges. EGT, fuel pressure, and boost. You don’t need the head unit on every time you drive the truck. I only connect mine when I’m playing with the tune or want to check some numbers out. Other than that start and go. I wouldn’t worry about the wiretap feature until you get your base tune dialed in. Here’s something basic you can start with. On level 3. load timing offset 2 Low timing reduction 5 timing scaling 50% Light throttle timing 2 light throttle load 30% Timing scale 15,19,23,27, 29 Mike starts his on 13 with a manual. Mine does better at 15. Your canbus could start between 95-98% Which ever has the least amount of smoke with a good take off. From there just add fuel so you have a nice steady pull using the whole throttle pedal. I believe canbus fueling maxes out at 4095 which you can check on the Quad. From what I’ve read most hit that number around 125% of fueling but you can select up to 150%
    2 points
  13. Forst time putting the chromoly front shafts to use My watch dog, started feeding it about a week ago. Not super friendly , kinda inviting when i get gome round the corner to my back door and am greated by a hissing hungry badger.
    2 points
  14. Just be ready for looks from the Prius, Tesla, and Subaru drivers as your truck keeps running while you walk away. Can't count the Karens that have yelled at me. I just roll my eyes and keep walking.
    2 points
  15. Ok gotcha. It would be good to have a member that knows these manuals inside out. He would be a welcomed addition. Hope he recovers well from covid. Best wishes to him.
    2 points
  16. 22 psi seems awfully high at 1800 rpm with only 30% throttle.. Vacuum doesn't matter as much on a diesel.. Intake MAP is 36.83 psia, so minus 14.7 for 22.13 psig.. 0.2 psi is enough to account for elevation.. Any codes set? I wonder if your timing went wonky in the vp44..
    2 points
  17. I run both with my tablet and without. Depends on trip length and what I want to keep an eye on. The fuel pressure sensor/sender is the only separate piece. But the wiring is already there in the Quad harness. Mostly I'm just using the quad to data log my sled pulls since its hard to glance at the regular gauges will going wide open with 20-40k in tow while on dirt.
    2 points
  18. I typically run headless. I don't bother with my phone unless in tweaking the tune. I've already got my primary gauges. Boost, fuel pressure and pyrometer. Don't need the phone at all. Not required to operate every key cycle set it up and turn off the app. Put your phone away and drive.
    2 points
  19. It comes with an EGT probe and trans/oil temp sensor. As far as a display, you just use your phone or a tablet. You can download the software to your phone or tablet now and check it out. You dont need the Quad to check out the software. You could even add a custom tune to it and have it ready to upload to the module once you get one. This is what I did.
    2 points
  20. Hello all long time reader of many Forums for Years. Got 2 vp trucks and a commonrail so far. plan to get another vp truck maybe by Christmas? Probably gunna do those build threads eventually just want the goods 1st. both nv4500 4wd and 48re crew cab 4wd all long bed
    2 points
  21. Unlike DC voltage you can’t easily series AC power due to the phasing of the alternating current. The Honda’s are designed to sync their phases, but they have to be connected in parallel for that to work. Household 240V is in fact 2 120V legs, but the are phases 180° apart. Even thou it has 2 hot wires it is still called single phase. If you think about overhead power lines single phase is one wire (plus ground) and three phase is 3 wires (plus ground). The transformer then takes that single phase, often 7200V or higher, and transforms it down to 120V on two legs with 180° of phase separation, which is household 240V single phase power. If it’s a 4 wire 240V plug there is a neutral so that the appliance can also use 120V.
    2 points
  22. Try putting some clear hose in the fuel supply line and loop it up to the windshield so you can watch for air bubbles.
    2 points
  23. Have you tried the push-n-pull test. You do this with the truck running; you push and pull on every part of the engine wire harness and all connectors.
    2 points
  24. There's a reason that blizzards and in some cases, snow squalls, they tell everyone to stay home. Dry powder snow gets lofted easily with wind combined with 1 inch plus an hour snow fall rates can drop your visibility to nothing. Causes a white out condition. And it can happen in an instant. True fogs (wide and short beam, placed low on the vehicle) in amber or yellow are the best against falling/blowing snow. Since we are getting to that time of the year, one night when its snowing, try driving with just the fog lights. It's impressive how much better the beam cuts under the snow and how little reflected light gets back to you. The projectors are actually pretty good in the snow because of the cutoff. Less light to bounce off/back at you that isn't helping see down the road.
    2 points
  25. I have the Retroshop 5000k D2’s. Best lighting upgrade I’ve done. Tried different housing with different bulbs. Same crap view. Some people got lucky with the right combo. Love the D2’s. The only thing I had to do was move the wires around in the factory plug. Low was high and high was low. Shines very well in front and to the sides with an excellent cut off.
    2 points
  26. Photo bomb, jeep has been busted up pretty good latly, broken front shafts knuckle ripped a tire winched 5 miles. this kicked off chromoly shafts, steering track bar rework. Drilled bigger rotors to fit jeep 5 4.5 bolt pattern. Our trucks steer like **** compared to this jeep. Ive semi researched doing true cross over steering on the dodge. Thd jeep is incredibly presice compared to a drag link tie to a tie rod got to see inside a grizzly locker. Had to disassemble to remove broken shaft
    2 points
  27. Due to the expense and the quietness of the Honda EU series Hondas I just bought a second inverter gen, EU 2200i so we can live in the RV when we have a bad storm. I will just have to visit my friends in town every three days to fill up with water. The new Honda has a 30 amp 3 prong twist lock receptacle for my 30 amp rv cord (with the gen adapter) and will run the microwave. On eco mode it didn't have to go into a higher idle to power the microwave. It's very nice and since we have our own RV dump in the driveway, will be fine to go this route. If it gets real cold we have to keep the woodstove going for the house plumbing. The other generator will keep the fridge going in the house just fine. Poor mans way of doing it, yes but, if I put a sanitary water storage tank outside I can use another 12 volt pump to pump water into the rv. IBMobile is genius.... he says plumb the 12 volt pump and tank to a hose bib outside and repressurise the well pressure tank to flush toilets and run water in the house. He is the cool idea man
    2 points
  28. At your boost level, I wouldn't sweat it, unless you get the crazy idea to start trying for 60+ psi. Drive to boost should be 1.2:1 or lower for best efficiency I believe. I think that because I remember reading that the HE351CW or VE causes up 2:1 drive to boost because of the small exhaust housing. like @Dieselfuturesaid, you would need another hole to attach some line or a sensor to. Although the attached photo is a creative way of doing the setup. The coil is needed to cool the gasses down so you don't melt anything. So yes you would need a permanent gauge. Fixing drive pressure is either a wastegate or larger turbine housing. Again I don't think you should have anything to worry about. As for your head, get it entirely rebuilt while you are getting it machined. If I had to say any upgrades while its out, top hat valve seals and don't forget the valve guides. Made that mistake, now the head has to come off again. Go with o-rings not fire rings if you are going down this path, unless you are going to like 80+ psi.. Just gonna ask, why do you want to take the head off? Is the gasket bad? Reason being, the head is very heavy (150lbs), and just taking it off to take it off is not advised..
    2 points
  29. I'm sorry to her about your wife's mother passing. My wife and I still talk about the good visit we had with her and the rest of your family.
    2 points
  30. Here are both of mine. Headed to a sled pull this previous Friday and Saturday. Got 3rd and 4th respectively in my work stock class.
    2 points
  31. Me too Mike. The 2nd gen rigs were pretty easy to work on for the backyard mechanic like myself. The newer stuff looks like a major headache. At this point though my age is catching up with me. Getting tired of turning wrenches I guess. With my wife's Prius it's much easier. I just have to look after the simple stuff like fuel, tire pressure, washer fluid, etc. The dealer takes care of the big stuff and it's all under an extended warranty. As much as I love my '02 Dodge (going on 20 years now) for $25k bucks it might have to go.
    2 points
  32. I don't believe those offer 240V when combined, they just give a lot more 120V amperage. The Honda 7kW units do have 240V, and I believe can be paired up. I've read a lot of good reviews about the Harbor Freight Predator generators and see lots of food trucks using them. Also on job sites some guys have well-used versions and swear they're as good or nearly as good as their Hondas, for a LOT less money. I'd rather support Japan than China, but I ultimately prefer to keep my several thousand dollars, too.
    2 points
  33. Stop all these forest fire that are making more CO2 that any vehicle in the world. Heck just consider a Boeing 747 hold 63,500 gallons of Jet-A fuel and burns just about 5 GALLONS OF JET-A EVERY ONE MILE. So tell a you Govt not to fly and start walking. You know they will still fly. Out here people are getting 20k to 25k for 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins. No joke.
    2 points
  34. I dont know what average is. Thats about how long moog, and oem bars last on our 07. At one point in time i was on bored with the luke stuff. But honestly no one runs that stuff, its super easy just put a new fast food track bar on every few years. On my 02 im running a 7/8" heim track bar. I absolutely despise a tie rod end on the frame side. I cut the factory stuff off my frame and fabbed the frame side from scratch. I have lots of hours into fabbing the frame side id probly be ahead just to swap it out every couple years with a moog or whatever.
    1 point
  35. It's true RV275s are pretty mild and could be used without any mods. But I typically suggest a minimum of +50 HP injectors being at least you can have them pop tested and flow matched.
    1 point
  36. I finally return from up north getting my transmission back. Yup I wore out the gears for the input and counter shaft. Look closely the input shaft had worn through the hard facing and then weaken the teeth and broke off. Again when this failure occurred I had the Quadzilla on level 2. Remember all these gears now had 435k miles and just plain wore out. Jason told me my previous rebuilder (Weller Truck, Boise)did a good job of rebuilding last time and he seen all the updated stuff in the transmission. There isn't much left to upgrade... As for Jason Hammer I talked to him and he's more than wiling to join the forum and help other manual transmission owners. He's very knowledgeable and can work on ANY manual transmission. He is self taught as well. Now here in the future I'm planning on going back up to Spokane, WA and learning from him. He gave me a stellar price on the rebuild and 1 year warranty from this point on. Next step to re-install the transmission. Input shaft and damage... Here you can see the wear that weakened the gear teeth after the hard facing was lost. As for the NV4500 transmission the counter shaft is one piece. Nothing to do but change the entire shaft. Then the gear itself...
    1 point
  37. Tap the throttle to cancel the turbo timer.. Gonna sound a bit weird as it shuts down while trying to add fuel.
    1 point
  38. Good explanation. My good friend and I were having a warm discussion on this matter. I could not imagine that you could get 240 v out of two 120 v gens. But he said that it could be done Good info. I will show him thanks
    1 point
  39. 1 point
  40. Word of advice, swap the zerk fitting for a 45° or 90° one, and face it towards the bar. The straight one doesn't clear the bracket axle side on my truck. cant get the grease gun to quite lock on and just gets grease everywhere except in the Johnny Joint. @IBMobile, what are the odds the left turn issue is in the cab by the steering shaft or something like that? There's not really wiring anywhere else that would contact the steering.. unless I'm mistaken. @MarkG could you upload a video to YouTube going up your driveway or similar so we can see and hear what the truck is doing?
    1 point
  41. Say whatever you like but you have to admit the plaid is stupid fast for a production car. Seeing it reel in a modded hypercar is nutso
    1 point
  42. Yes dirt. We usually get a couple storms a season that put down 12" but usually over 3 days or so.
    1 point
  43. If you're keeping your truck for a long time then get https://retroshop.us/products/2g-ram-hid-projector-retrofitted-headlights retrofits and don't think. Otherwise have fun trying things out. You can retrofit yourself if you got time to save few bucks. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkbuKBhDRARIsAALysV7wHF4bqvFCVNuSohpKEOd7aTcOdfqVP7himtVD-i6xsYepsHZPjxYaAlvMEALw_wcB D2S is what I'd go with
    1 point
  44. Is smoke fairly managable with that setup? I would like to run as smoke free as possible. Thats really good MPG so is that due to the tuning on the adrenaline? I havent messed with mine much yet but i did buy a couple tunes from here. I imagine tire size and gear ratio play an important part too in getting MPG like that.
    1 point
  45. I would better to change the full turbo and exhaust brake reducing more restriction. Get away from the exhaust brake limitations of the turbos that only fit my set up.
    1 point
  46. There are factory options, there are also aftermarket options. I have a Synergy Mfg. steering setup, its a t-style and I have had no issues so far. No dead spot at steering center, haven't had to touch them for a long time (besides greasing). I did however completely remove the steering stabilizer shock. I didn't feel it was needed. It is expensive at $930 but if you need tie rod ends they are $45 each (plus $20 for the low misalignment dust boots that attach to the knuckles.) If I had to do it over again I think I would go with Dodge Off Road's steering setup, with EMF heim joints. I like the precision and lack of play that heims have, and EMF heims are adjustable and rebuildable so you dont need an all new entire joint every time it wears out.
    1 point
  47. No vin and no real price yet. Dealer and salesman don’t know much of anything really very normal I suppose
    1 point
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