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      Google Authenticator   04/23/2017

      Mopar1973Man.Com will now start using two-factor authentication to protect users accounts. All staff, donors, and customers will be required to use the Google Authenticator which you can download for free. Just scan the QR barcode and the app will provide the lock code. If you attempt to guess the code it will lock you out of the site. So please don't guess at the code. This will only appear to users that are accessing mission critical data to the member or the site.   I also enable the question and answers. If anyone has other ideas for question please PM to me and I'll add them to the system as well. The Question and Answers work similar and you must answer the questions to gain access to a protected area.  


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Showing most liked content since 03/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 9 likes
    I try to be proactive towards the maintenance of my truck rather than reactive..... Knowing that the OEM Bosch alternator had almost 120k miles on it, I felt that not only was it probably going to give me DC troubles in the near future but I was also sure that I was most likely experiencing some AC issues as well, especially during the cold morning and hot summer weather. Why I say that....? I've tested my AC voltage before during the summer and it was within "spec", but still I thought the readings were higher than I'd like. So I recently tested again before installing the Nations unit just to confirm and what I got was about .044 during idle. Yes thats acceptable but also understanding that its 35* outside and the engines warm enough that the grids are not cycling, I felt that there was nowhere for the AC readings to go but up. Meaning, as the weather gets warmer and/or the alternator is powering more accessories, the AC voltage reading will only increase. Alternators will produce the least amount of AC at idle with little to no electronics running. But ramp the throttle up to around 2000 - 2500 RPM, turning on every electrical component and the readings will always increase as the diodes work at converting. I saw that the last time I tested it in the summer so I felt I'm justified in replacing before problems arise. Plus I noticed a considerable amount of red brush dust on the tensioner pulley (seen in the picture) which reassured me that it was getting old. So I've decided to replace it. Exploring my options, they are as usual..... To either rebuild my current one, get an over the counter "lifetime warranty" parts store unit and hope for the best, or look for one of the few high dollar units available out there in the aftermarket world. Well given money is always a variable, I chose to go with the Nations unit I've heard good things about. Not only are they priced what I consider to be reasonable for what you get but they're also American made. Plus if I have trouble, I'd rather deal with Nations than deal with either Autozone, NAPA, O'Reilly, etc... and risk delicate electronics on this truck. Yes, I could have had it rebuilt but I'd still have an alternator that may or may not generate more AC than I'd like because of the windings and diode count, but I'm sure I'd probably have battle with the small shop explaining what I want and why, since most places are more concerned with DC output rather than what the AC voltage readings are. This is the one I opted for. 180 amp, hairpin wound, 12 diodes, and uses the stock pulled size. http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/180-Amp-HP-High-Output-Alternator-for-2000-Dodge-p/13874-180-hp.htm Just to be clear.....what I was experiencing with the OEM alternator was the norm and had been this way for years. That said, typically the volt gauge in the cold mornings would do as described: Turn key ON, gauge drops to the lower portion of the "normal" range. Start engine when WTS light turns off. Gauge immediately drops back down to the lower portion of normal as the grid cycles on again. Gauge starts to climb rapidly as the grid cycles off. Seconds later the grid cycles on again and the gauge dips down to the lower portion of normal. This back and forth takes places for a few minutes depending on the ambient temperature. And when it does, the engine clearly lets me know that the grids are cycling by either making the tell-tale noise of loading down from the alternator drag, and/or I can get a slight momentary idle lope only to immediately regain regular idle. The lights dim considerably as well and the volt gauge generally reaches just a tick over 14 volts when its completed the event or I drive off. Well after the install of the Nations unit this is what takes place: Turn key ON, gauge drops to the lower portion of the "normal" range. Start engine when WTS light turns off. Gauge does NOT drop back down to the lower portion of normal as the grid cycles on again, but rather remains up around 14 volts. Gauge moves a tad higher than 14 volts as the grid cycles off. Seconds later the grid cycles on again and the gauge drops no lower than 14 volts. As before, this back and forth takes places for a few minutes depending on the ambient temperature. But this time the engine does NOT react the same but rather hardly lets me know that the grids are cycling. There is no tell-tale noise of loading down from the alternator drag and I seemingly had no slight momentary lope during that moment either. I cant say about the lighting at this point because I havent driven it during the night since the new alternator was installed. But I'm going to guess that they will not dim nearly as much given that the alternator appears to be cranking out more amperage during idle while creating less load on the engine. I also tested the AC voltage as soon as I installed the Nations unit, while during the same cold weather, and saw about .020. I'll be testing it some more as the weather warms too. Lastly, I would say that of the few times I've driven it since the install the engine has slightly better manners during the cold weather. This only further supports the understanding that these trucks are VERY susceptible to electronic anomalies and the alternators are absolutely something to pay attention to.
  2. 8 likes
    I have the perfect solution. Send me an address and I will get this anti bird device packed up and ready for you. No charge needed.
  3. 7 likes
    Countyguy- I got my ECM from Flight Systems Electronic Group. They rebuild these ECM's 100% and stand behind them with a 1 year warranty and unlimited mileage. Here is their website https://www.fseg.net/ They have been building electronics for Aerospace programs for 40 years according to their website. No other ECM rebuilder even comes close to these guys. They charge $800 for our 2nd generation ECM's. They program it for your truck so you don't have to go to the Dodge dealer to get your new ECM flashed. It truely is "Lock and load" ready to go right out of the box.
  4. 6 likes
  5. 6 likes
    Well, the day's finally come!!! Called and setup my appointment with Jon so he can set me up with a proper transmission! I can't wait to finally have a trans that I won't have to worry about and then I can start looking at some more power! I'll keep this thread up to date on my trip out there and try and snap a few pics here and there and then any follow on stuff once I have the trans installed.
  6. 5 likes
    Here's a sneak peak. Just a few more things left to assemble and it's done!!!! whooo-hooo!
  7. 5 likes
    I've got to refresh this thread and say that @Chris O. CCD network tool did the trick. Chris. O's CCD network tool was absolutely correct. The passenger side tone wheel was bad and created all the issues. Now both left and right wheel bearings have been replaced and all ABS and BRAKE light are now turned off and ABS is functioning properly. This is a first in like 2 years now. I'm going to have to create a killer write up on ABS diagnostics and how to test for these weird things with and without a DRBIII tool. ABS PROBLEM RESOLVED!!!
  8. 5 likes
    I'm going to refer to my VP44 post for the first part here. So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak. You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head. Now you need to remove the two 10mm bolts holding the 3,5,6 injection rails. This is so you can remove the 3,5,6 from the intake. Now there is a 8mm bolt holding the dipstick tube. This caught me off guard so don't forget to remove this 8mm bolt for the dipstick tube. Now loosen the 3,5,6 injection line from the head. Lift the 3,5,6 injection lines from the engine. Place them somewhere clean. Take the two 10mm bolts out holding the fuel filter housing. Then lay the fuel filter over out of the way. This might require removing the fuel lines if you still have hard lines yet. Now remove the three 10mm bolts holding the ECM to the tappet cover. Lay it over as well toward the driver side fender. Now you need to remove the 10mm bolt on the rear most holding the return line. Then there are three 16mm standoffs bolts you need to remove. Then three 10mm bolts. You may need to lightly pry on the cover to break the seal loose from the block. Be careful not to drop or break the rubber seal into the engine while doing this. It should lift out. Now take some brake cleaner and a rag and wash down the tappet cover and clean the edge. I use a gasket tack for the edge of the cover. I had to quickly put the gasket on so it would tack it together to prevent it from slipping off. Make sure the large tab is in the front and the flat side of the tab is point outwards. The thicker side should be towards the engine. Also watch for the FRONT mark on the tappet cover. Install. Make sure to put the right bolt in the right spots. I did not use any sealants on the face of the gasket. I highly suggest using RTV or gasket sealant on the mating face of the tappet cover gasket. This will most likely cause issues in the future. Just reverse the process to assemble.
  9. 5 likes
    Just an update to all. Thanks for the help. I ordered my Ecm from Flagship One out of NY. Installed last night and all is good. My alternator was rebuilt by a local rebuilding shop called Fondy auto and electric. It was the reason my Ecm went bad. Good luck to all keeping our trucks on the road
  10. 5 likes
    @NightHawk Don't take how I said it the wrong way, not blaming or yelling or whatever. The only thing that I needed to make %100 clear is that the quadzilla it not doing anything new in terms of the roots of how our truck work. I would never say that because it is flat out a lie. The vp44 crowd has fallen victim to smoke and mirrors for way to long. It is vastly important to me that people understand that nothing new is going on here from a communication standpoint, only the way the box gets its variables. I don't want new guys to think that the quadzilla is somehow doing something new that no other box can do. IE: the rumored 2nd injection event. The only thing the quadzilla is doing is opening up the ability to choose the variables in the software. There are absolutely risks in running something at and beyond the limits, but those risks are the same regardless of the tuner. No voodoo magic going on here.
  11. 5 likes
    Problem solved... I went and got a Dayco belt from Autozone with a 3 year warranty. Installed and the problem is gone. http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/belt/dayco-serpentine-belt/150612_0_23387_5281
  12. 5 likes
    I am jealous of the timing cover. Sure is purdy!!!
  13. 5 likes
    That was all him lol. I stood by and provided encouragement.
  14. 5 likes
    I just recently graduated and had the craft of scientific writing beaten into my skull only to continue using it with my job...who would have thought?! The dead pedal issue happened about 6 months ago and was taken care of by replacing the IAT sensor. I have done most of the work indeed and i did mention codes, but the lack there of. I too am wondering if my apps needs replacing but it would be odd as it is only about 6 months old as well. There seems to be a link with the apps as the truck drives completely fine except for when i am decellerating from higher speeds and the rpms get stuck at 1000 until about 15 mph where they begin to come back down to normal idle. Other than that the truck feels greeat when driving around. I like the scan gauge but i find that its very low sampling rate (i assume) makes it near useless for real time debugging. How would i check the resistance of the apps? Just hook up between the supply wire and output wire of the apps? I have all sensors plugged back in at this time. Unplugging them was only to try and facilitate some type of change in its behavior. I call it old because it has the old circuit board thats more prone to burning up (especially the big white resistors - my box only has one of tthose). Does your statement still stand, i would love to make it more badass! Im hoping to get this resolved, and i appreciate all input. Watch out now, my truck and i are both millennials and could easily be triggered by anything you say...ANYTHING!!! LOL just kidding, she's definitely a girl, just a rugged looking one...i call her gertrude. Shes not the prettiest but has a great personality...most of the time. Here she is hanging with her big sisters.
  15. 5 likes
  16. 4 likes
    Excellent to hear she is up and running again! Always a good feeling hearing it fire up after going under the wrench. I always love the rush/pucker factor lighting up a fresh engine after a rebuild and all is successful it's the same I guess when doing a pump just not as stressful lol. The ears go on high alert picking up the smallest of strange noises, brain even makes up a few sometimes😓
  17. 4 likes
    I finally replaced Injection pump. I used the instructions supplied from this site. The truck hasn't run this good in about a year. Thanks for all of the help.
  18. 4 likes
    Absolutely agree with above. All I am saying it is so difficult to have a hard and absolute rule that a particular trouble code means an absolute particular hardware failure. Often it can be incidental as I have learned the hard way when I have written diagnostic software myself. I absolutely think this is best diesel site with Michael so dedicated to teaching and advising us on how to handle diesel truck problems. I only bought a vacuum pump and gauge set for HVAC problems because of Michael's excellent write-ups. Paid for itself several times already.
  19. 4 likes
    Well i am glad to hear all the information about what makes the vp44 communicated to the ecm and what the quad does. I am a supportive member of the v2 and all of the great folks on this form who have done some many things to make it what it is today. SO try to think of someone new to the game like i initially did when i read the post. When we run these electronic dinos hard things can happen, simple risk factors. I would definitely buy a v2 for what it offers but seeing i wont wire tap...its alot of money for what i already have in hand. Remember all, this form is great for discussions..we dont want to become like others.
  20. 4 likes
    JAG, I've seen you shoot. Get the cat to do it.
  21. 4 likes
    Personally, I would buy new ones and let them wear to the cam properly. While it may look like there is no wear, each one has worn a little different to each cam lobe.
  22. 4 likes
    The truck is all tucked away in the shop and hidden from the public. It's going to get the dark closet punishment for crapping the bed.
  23. 4 likes
    Keep it up you big cluck and this is where you're headed.
  24. 4 likes
    I feel like I should be knocking on wood. I've had no problems with my truck for ages. Feel like the preventive maintenance is paying off! Thanks to you guys and this site for helping me to see potential troubles and what to do about them! Side note...had to remove my studded tires this past week and got some new Toyo's. I am liking the 3rd gen 17" wheels. Cheap bling. Got used ones from a classified ad. Two sets so I have a set for studs and a set for regular tires.
  25. 4 likes
    Yesterday I made a trip down to @TFaoro's shop to put a Fast cooler on my truck and do a pinion seal. While there I was able to witness his new p pumped truck start up and go back together, while putting my truck back together. The Fast cooler allowed for 7 quarts of brand new Synchromesh to be put in the trans, and it was very happy. And the pinion seal stopped the gear oil from getting all over the underside of my truck.... Pictures below are of Tyler's truck, the Fast cooler on my truck, and of my (girlfriend's) puppy Nala, who accompanied me down and back.
  26. 4 likes
    Hey guys, wanted to introduce myself officially to the V2 testing thread. I'm Kole. I have a 2001 2500 4x4 Automatic with ridiculous 7x.014 VCO injectors (woops...) and compounds. And I live in Saskatchewan, Canada. Yes it gets really cold here. I just finished reading through all 44 pages in their entirety. Oddly enough it kinda feels like I know some of you guys now. I actually started testing V2 on September 12th of last year (conveniently on my birthday). I reached out to Quad directly over the phone about some tuning advice, and we got to talking. When I told them about my setup and issues with low end smoke/spool up, they told me about V2 tuning, and they agreed to let me try it. I did a couple data logs regarding torque management that they requested and I played around for months after that (until my truck had enough torque to point out a defect in my TC lockup clutch in mid December. Double woops.) Got the thing back on the road this past Friday, around which time I discovered this thread. I had no idea this was going on. I was in contact with Spencer long ago via email, who was helpful, and apparently possibly Nick at one point? Maybe a different Nick? Who knows. Anyway, I was blown away to see all the cooperative testing and effort put in. And Nick getting whipped like the family Mule and coming back for more. Good stuff. I do industrial automation for a living and programming is a big part of my job. I definitely smell what you're stepping in. So I missed a crap load of updates, but I'm caught up now on the most recent flash. I freakin love it. The low psi timing reduction scared the crap out of me since I've never heard the truck sound with retarded timing. Free revving it is also different, sounds kinda neat. My spool up is definitely better. One thing I noticed is that it's not the timing reduction alone that speeds up spool up. The timing reduction is actually allowing me to run at least 10% more canbus fuelling from 0-5psi with LESS smoke than on regular timing. The result is... cool. Very cool. I can have very respectable spool times and just keep a gentle haze. Score. I'm going to try to get close to a daily driving tune tomorrow (with no wiretap), and I plan on working back and forth between Canbus fuelling and timing adjustments, as it seems like they affect each other to a certain degree. This is way too much fun. I'll post a tune and any interesting findings as they become relevant. If you prefer I can leave the tunes out of this thread and move over to the custom tunes thread with that business. Anyway, thanks for the hard work, and I look forward to helping any way I can. Viva La VP44. -Kole
  27. 4 likes
  28. 4 likes
    Me either, but so far what I have learned when it comes to the VP44 generation trucks is that there is a TON of misleading information out there aimed at making a buck. I tend to be less of an optimist when it comes to this stuff now days.
  29. 4 likes
    I added a MSD ignition system. The old distributor was shot with no vacuum advance and the timing parts drifting all over the place. The parts to rebuild it aren't in production and NOS parts are extremely expensive on eBay. The choice was either get a new Mopar electronic ignition system or an MSD. I found a good deal on the MSD kit, and it was about the same price as a Mopar kit. It has way better power now! I kinda think that the original points distributor was jumping about 3-5 degrees at idle and not advancing at higher RPM. All my old cars will have MSD distributors from here on out. Well worth every penny. All it needs is a 12v source and a ground. It came with all timing adjustment springs, bushings, the coil even came with the prong to bypass the ballast resistor. It even has a built in rev limiter! Not bad at all, especially as a factory refurb unit! Next is the right front brake, which is leaking fluid. The car stops ok, but it likely needs a cylinder or line. I am going to take a look at both wheels. The rear drums are pressed on, so I am not going to look at those til I need to. After that, new exhaust, trunk floor, seat covers, the speedo needs tuned up, window tracks need cleaned on the rear doors and I have some vacuum lines to chase down. I will rebuild the carb when I get around to it, but it runs well enough now that I am not too concerned. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4LuU_ZKMucceHJ4ZDJsLTBVcDg/view?usp=sharing
  30. 4 likes
    I'm with Mike. Not too many miles yet on this one but I towed my toyhauler to OR coast and back this week and performed flawlessly. GVW a bit over 17,000 and had the Comp on 5x5. Would bury the pyro so could only use about half throttle. I did back it off to 3 but still wanted to run over 1,300* but I haven't J-hooked the turbo yet. You WILL be happy! RR
  31. 4 likes
    Hey, just wanted to introduce myself, I'm from Northern Idaho and have a 2002 QCSB with a HO Cummins and 6 speed manual. I found the site looking at HID retrofits and it looked like a great community to be a part of. Attached a pic of my truck for those who want to see it.
  32. 4 likes
    I have been feeling the need to do a write up on this for sometime now. The more and more I learn about how tuners work for our trucks the more I feel like there is a serious amount of misinformation out there that REALLY needs to be corrected. What you guys pay your hard earned money for should return results beyond what some guy's distance friend thinks is awesome. This is not meant to explain the deep in's and outs, rather a rough idea of how things work and why some setups are good and others are not.First let me explain how our trucks work on a basic level when you push the pedal down. IE: How does the VP44 know when and how to fuel? Info taken from vp44 CAN message - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums thanks to Jdonoghue and his work from ~ a decade ago. When I say there is nothing new in terms of magic inside the ecm or vp44 I mean it. Next lets look at what type of tuners we have for our Vp44 trucks and how they work on a basic level. 2. Canbus Tuners: Edge EZ Quadzilla ZXT, ts mvp, anything that plugs in under the hood to the data port. 3. Wiretap only tuners: TST comp might be more not sure haha. 4.Wiretap and canbus tuners: Edge Comp / juice, Quadzilla Adrenaline, redline. Lets remember that canbus fueling actually makes up the vast majority of fueling / power in our trucks. Wiretap adds a good amount of power, but not nearly as much as canbus fuel. On a stock truck canbus fuel alone will get you to 300 hp wiretap will only bring that up to ~420 hp according to ricer math on the hottest tuners. so ~75% of the power is actually coming from Canbus alone and wiretap adds another ~%25 on top. 300 hp is approx %75 of 420 hp. So now that we have a basic understanding of tuners lets look at stacks and what they do.Throughout this I am going to reference the Throttle pedal as if it was a volumn knob on a stereo. 0 = silent / engine off 10 being WOT or stereo as loud as it will go.Let me start off by saying that there are good reasons to stack in some situtations. In my opinion you should never stack programmers that do the same thing. It is commonly accepted that you shouldn't stack 2 boxes that do timing. The thought with Stacking Timing boxes is it over advances timing causing issues. Generally unsafe I suppose. Not sure if I believe that fully, but regardless your truck will run like garbage, and you feel that in the butt dyno. We all agree it's not a good idea. Oh the Butt dyno....we'll get to that in a second.But people seem to ignore the same thought process for canbus fueling. You ask ANY tuner and they would tell you that too much fuel is a bad thing for performance. We all know that "flooding" the turbo results in poor performance. So why is that the same mindset does not apply to the fueling side of tuning in the same way as the timing? Reason that no one seems to care is that there is inheriently no high risk of damage and the Butt Dyno says it works. Kinda like the facebook, if someone says it's ok on facebook then we are all good. So the masses tend to ignore overfueling as being bad. So the Butt Dyno, So back on topic. Stacking, So if we think about our 0 - 4095 fueling message as being directly related to 0-10 on our volume knob on the stereo ( obviously in the real world it isn't linear, but in this example it is). So loudness on canbus is 0-10.So here we have a data log from a normal DD drive on OEM fueling on the "canin" column, you can see that in stock form once you are moving you normally see a canbus message of above 1000. So you range for fueling if you want to get going is no longer 0 - 3600, rather ~1000-3600 which makes sense it takes power to move the truck down the road. So in Stock form our volume knob has a range of 2.5-8. 2.5 = 1000 and 8 being 3600 or stock tuning max This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image Whats important to note is that our volume knob is stuck going no lower than 2.5 when you step on the pedal to catch the mustang in front of you. So our knobs 0 position is now 2.5 as the truck needs to move down the road.So what happens when we add one tuner say smarty on top of OEM? Say the tuner addes %20 fuel down low, great we all love power.... Our low limit is already 2.5, but we added ~%20 up top also. cool now our knob goes up to 10. Awesome news!So what happens if we stack 2 boxes that do Canbus Fueling? So down low the Smarty tuning in the ECM is asking for %20 over stock when you hit the skinny pedal. then the canbus piggy back box is intercepting that fueling command of (OEM + %20) and adding it's own fuel on top. So we end up with (OEM + %20) + %20 as the lowest amount of fuel we get when we want to pass someone. The stack doesn't give us more top end due to the limited size of the fueling message IE: 10 on our stereo. So our range of fueling is now %50 min and still %100 max, so our stereo only works between 5 and 10. So our volume knob's 0 is now 5. Not exactly what I would call a good setup.so here's a visual idea of what I mean. You can see how the stacked setup just maxes out fueling sooner, Kepe in mind our trucks fueling is in no way linear, but you can see how stacking just causes overfueling. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image Most stock guys won't really see this as an issue, but what you need to see is that your throttle movement is limited to %50 of what it used to be. Same max power, it's just all moved between 0 and %50 throttle position durning DD driving. Anything over %50 is reaching that max fueling message size of 4095. so if you go to %60 you truck is just as fast as it was at %50 throttle and so forth. It is easy to see that you are just maxing out fueling sooner and sooner with less and less throttle travel IE less and less control over your truck. Stacking tuners is like only being able to control your volume on your stereo between 5 and 10. You'd be pissed if your radio never went below 5, why do you want your truck to drive the same way? Solution Time More control is a good thing. It's a brave new world, tune your truck correctly and use the throttle if you want power.So when should you stack? It's easy....Only stack things that do different things. You only need 1 box that does each thing, canbus fueling ( from the ecm or piggy back) + timing + wiretap( if you want it). The only thing you gain by stacking boxes that do the same things is a lighter wallet. You get no more power at the cost of less control over your truck.
  33. 4 likes
    Crankcase Vent Modification for 24V Dodge Cummins Trucks People been asking for me to redo this article so here it is. Supplies you'll need... 1 stick of 1/2" PVC pipe (minimum of 57" long) 3 - 1/2" PVC elbows slip to slip 1 - 1/2" PVC elbow slip to NPT (male or female) 1 - 1/2" PVC straight connector slip to NPT (male or female) 3" piece of 3/4" heater hose 2 hose clamps 1 Small can of PVC glue Hacksaw Sharpie black marker Tape measure Can of spray paint 1 Zip tie 6" long Cut measurements 3" Heater hose 4 1/2" front down pipe 2 1/4" front cross pipe 24" long pipe 5" rear cross pipe 20 1/2" rear down pipe NOTE: These measure are my final cut measurements. I suggest cutting a tad long and adjusting as you see fit for your truck. So at this point you should have all your materials to assemble. You should assembly your cut pipe and fittings dry without glue and test fit everything. While test fitting be sure to remove all plastic cuttings from the ends of the pipes. Also when test fitting be sure to bottom out all pipes into the fittings. In the supply list I list PVC elbow and a straight connector (male or female) this is totally up to you. You can do either way as long as you have a male and female connection in the end. Now during my test fitting I was very careful to get the front section of pie back far enough so its not in contact with the upper radiator hose. On the rear section you have to be careful of the angle of your down pipe. I've got mine resting on the very tip of the bellhousing. Now that you fairly happy with your fit. Take a Sharpie marker and mark all the elbow positions with a fine line from the elbow to the pipe to note position. This way you can glue the pieces back together in the proper angles. When gluing all the pieces together be sure once again to bottom out all your pipes into the fittings. At this point you will want to stuff your 3" piece of heater hose on the front pipe. Need at least 1" of heater hose on the PVC pipe for clamping. Now take a rag and a bit of paint thinner or lacquer thinner and wipe all the oil and grime off the pipe assembly. Now take a can of spray paint of the wanted color. It's best to get a spray paint that is chemically correct for plastics. So you should have a completed Crankcase vent pipe for your truck now. All you have to do is lay it back up on top. Make sure you have your 2 hose clamps on before installing. Slip the heater hose over the crankcase vent nipple. Using the one zip tie tie the rear cross pipe to the top of the hoist ring. Carefully slide the down pipe down and screw on to the rear fitting. Opps. the Paint was completely cured.
  34. 3 likes
    Couple of pics from my shop at the mine doing a scheduled major rebuild on our Hitachi 2500 mass excavator. Doing an engine swap here are pics of the Cummins factory reman engine sitting in the module. Engine is a V16 QSKTA 50 1500 horsepower
  35. 3 likes
    Typically these trucks come with 3.55 gears the other option is 4.10 but you won't be pulling at 80-90 MPH at all. Like my truck at 80 MPH is 2,400 RPM with 3.55 gears. Highly doubt that number... He most likely looking at the "Overhead Idiot" which is known to report some really goofy numbers if there is any tuner on the truck. The only way to get number accurate is hand math using a GPS odometer (if any oversize tires are used).
  36. 3 likes
    RPM isn't an issue. Remember the VP44 turn at 1/2 the rate of the crank or the same speed as the cam. So 1600 RPM (3200 RPM stock) or 1850 RPM (3700 RPM high limit). Extra 250 RPM's to that pump is nothing. Very true... Also keep in mind I ran the Edge Comp wire tapped for 11 years before hand. I will not and am not blaming Quadzilla for the failure of my VP44 and/or injectors. Period end of story.
  37. 3 likes
    I just realized that I'm already for a tappet cover gasket install. I'll have the VP44 out and just got to pull the ECM and filter and install. I've already got the gasket laying on the workbench in the shop. I guess I better have my camera ready as well and refresh a VP44 install article and tappet gasket install.
  38. 3 likes
    well when you do get a new pump make sure to run it without Wiretap for at least a month. Drive it HARD during that month to ensure you bring to light any rebuild issues. Ask Trevor about his rebuilt pump...
  39. 3 likes
    Hi there, I'm 32 and live on Vancouver Island, BC. My mechanical skills are fairly novice but I like working on my own vehicles (love/hate relationship sometimes). I've been lurking for a while, and have been following Mopar's posts here and other forums for quite a while. I plan on keeping my 1999 24v for a very long time so I'll hopefully be here for a while. It's mostly stock but I have done some small things like the BD flowmax lift pump. I take the view I have my truck for a marathon race not a sprint but in the future I would like to do a few small performance upgrades for towing etc. From what I have seen I like this resource forum a lot more than other diesel sites, so I am glad to be here.
  40. 3 likes
    Good... last thing reliability needs is a blown HG :-)
  41. 3 likes
    Eb are not hard on headgaskets assuming you are not injecting fuel when using one going down the road. The eb is just creating a pumping loss in the engine. There is far less cylinder pressure being created compared to an actual power stroke of the engine
  42. 3 likes
    Boost is NOT a good reference for cylinder pressures. It depends on timing, boost, temperature, etc. If I were Mike I would at least check one of the head bolts to make sure the gasket hasn't seated over time. Studs wouldn't be a bad idea, but when money is tight ya gotta do what ya gotta do
  43. 3 likes
    Dodge/Cummins ECU (1998.5 - 2002 ISB) ECU Hardware There are 2 computers on the Ram. One on the passenger side firewall behind the air cleaner assembly (the Powertrain Control Module, or PCM), and the ECU, which is located on the left side of the engine, mounted directly on the engine block. The ECU is connected with a single 50-pin connector. The ECU itself is a sealed unit, with a single air vent device. It is constructed of an aluminum 'frame', or center section, that has the mounting tabs to fasten it to the engine, and a sheet aluminum 'cover', that isn't really a cover at all - the flexible plastic 'circuit board' is adhered directly to the inside of this 'cover', on both sides. There is gray silicone sealer between the 'cover' and the 'frame'. To open the ECU, one must remove the screws, and carefully pry the cover open. You must be sure to keep the cover straight and don't bend it, as the flexible circuit board is adhered directly to the inside of it. The side of the ECU with the electrical connector seems to contain power supply and other power-switching components (driver transistors, etc). I do not know if there are any ICs on this side, because I did not open mine up on that side (and at this point, I do not really want to). The other side contains the 'computer' components (processor, memory, etc) as shown below: Most of the ICs inside are standard components. There are several unidentified components: 8L12A: 8-pin IC. Possibly 12V voltage regulator for flash programming? Phillips IC, marked '4651148 005633-- Fhr011B'. Maybe analog MUX for ADC inputs? Atmel IC, marled 'ENCORE 51R42722U02 82002253-001 A9D0013 9951'. I have no idea what this is for, it looks like an ASIC. 8-pin IC marked '74690 XAVS' 8-pin IC marked '3029009 1951130'. Near the filter choke. CAN bus driver? The ECU only uses 256KB of flash, even if the installed chip is larger. The original ECU I opened had a 512KB chip (28F400). I later obtained another ECU, and discovered it had a 256KB chip (28F200). These flash chips are organized into a 16KB boot block, 2 8KB parameter blocks, and the remaining blocks are regular data blocks. The parameter blocks can sustain many more read/write cycles than the other blocks on the chip. There is 64k of RAM available, in the 2 32Kx8 SRAM chips. The memory is organized as follows: 0x000000 - 0x3FFFFF: Flash. The first 16k (0x000000 - 0x004000) is the 'boot' part of the flash chip. 0x800000 - 0x80FFFF: RAM 0xFFD000 - 0xFFD7FF: Some unknown peripheral device. Perhaps the Atmel chip? 0xFFD800 - 0xFFDFFF: Intel CAN Controller 0xFFE000 - 0xFFEFFF: TPURAM (Refer to the MC68336 manual) 0xFFF000 - 0xFFFFFF: MC68336 internal functions/integrated peripherals Software Using a BDM interface cable and driver, I wrote a program that would dump the contents of the flash chip to a file for inspection. This was difficult because every so often during the data transfer, an error would occur. I solved this problem by only reading 2KB at a time. I later found out that this read error was occurring because of a 'watchdog timer' in the ECU hardware was attempting to assert RESET while I was reading the data (because when reading through the BDM port, the CPU is stopped). Once I modified the program to do 2KB reads I was able to get a successful read of the data. I used GNU objdump to create an assembler listing of the file. I have spent many hours 'picking apart' the program to figure out what each section is for, how the peripherals of the MC68336 are configured/used, etc. There is a compressed program in the lower 16K (boot block) that gets decompressed into RAM at startup, only if certain conditions are met. This is probably a small program that is only good for reading the CAN bus, so that the flash can be reprogrammed. I have not spent much time examining this program. The VIN of the vehicle is embedded in data around 0x4000, and again around 0x8000. There is also a 'signature' around 0x8000 that is checked at startup, and if it is valid, an address is read from location 0x800a and execution of the 'main' startup code continues at that address. There is a considerable amount of data that gets moved from the end of the flash data into RAM at startup. In this example, the data begins at 0x3829e and ends at 0x3fee7. That is approx. 32KB of data. At this time, I have only been able to identify the startup code, where the various components are initialized and addresses are set up, and parts of the program that read/write the CAN messages. The following things need to be done: Identify the CAN messages themselves, the message contents, and what they mean. Identify which inputs connect to where (temp sensors, MAP, APPS, etc). Identify the other outputs and what ports they are located (Wait to start lamp, VP44 relay, fuel pump relay, intake heaters, etc.) Determine how the flash can be programmed by methods other than desoldering the chip from the board Identify the remaining program sections, and their assocaited data (the 'maps') It would probably be useful to build a CAN interface for my PC, and 'watch' the data on the CAN bus while the engine is in operation. This might yield some information that can be used to identify more of the program. Other information It appears that the ECU itself was designed (and possibly manufactured) by Motorola. The ECU software, is unknown. There is no copyright message or any other identifying information in the dump of the flash memory, except the VIN number and the string '091197'. I do not know what language the program was originally written in, probably C, I really don't think something that large would be written in assembly language. Why? Because it is my truck, my ECU, my flash memory chip, etc. and I have a right to know how it works. And I also have the right to do what I want with it, whether that be drive it, or take the ECU out, sprinkle cheddar cheese on it and bake it in the oven, etc. I think people should be able to understand, and repair if necessary, anything that they own, whether it be a computer, a car, a dishwasher, or a bike.
  44. 3 likes
    So I've learned something over my years of messing with this stupid truck. Buy what you want once to end up where you want to be. I am a huge fan of running larger injectors and scaling them back. And vp trucks should have left the factory with 7x.010s. lol Forgot part of something. The sxe is an ok turbo. No better than the older ones. I'd suggest a s300g or 62/65/12.
  45. 3 likes
    Yall must be good at pulling the pump on his truck by now. LOL
  46. 3 likes
    And doing it quite well I might add.
  47. 3 likes
    A converter will stall differently depending on load. However, it will fall within a general range. You can think of it as the RPM the converter changes from a turbine that converts a given torque and RPM (horsepower) to a different RPM and mathematically required torque for that RPM (think a variable gear ratio). After stall, the converter becomes must less like a turbine, and becomes closer to maintaining the same RPM. There is always some loss, turned to heat, unless you are in lockup. Old cars prior to the mid 70s didn't have lockup, and always had a few hundred or more difference in RPM after stall from the engine to the transmission input. To determine what you want requires a little thought. The basic concept is that you want to look at your power curve, turbo curve, and determine where on the RPM band you want the engine to fully load up. Examples. On a race car, you see converters up to 7000rpm or more. These allow the engine to flash to high RPM where the engine develops peak horsepower before stalling. On my truck that is built for daily driving, I wanted a stall that would load the engine at around 1300 RPM, as I felt that I had enough horsepower there to roll off the line. I don't like it as much now with my bigger turbo, and wish I had a 1700-1800 stall converter. When towing, I don't have enough torque there in first gear sometimes. The engine is held at 1200-1300 RPM which is too low for the turbo to spool without copious amounts of extra energy put into the turbo (fuel = excessive smoke). On a race truck, you might want a higher stall converter, same as the race car mentioned above. At low altitude, my setup is perfect. I don't smoke, I can run the smarty & TST stack hard enough to max my injectors flow, and it runs amazing. Once I moved back to Colorado however, I have to baby it off the line on hot days as I don't have enough smokeless power to accelerate quickly. If I had a higher stall converter, it wouldn't be a big deal. Another variable, the rest of the truck should be considered too. If I had 4:10 gears and standard tires, my lower stall converter would be just fine, as the power required to get moving with those lower gears wouldn't be as high. Last note, I have had an intermittent lockup hunting problem that I haven't yet found the fix for. The low stall converter is much less violent than a high stall when it moves in and out of lockup.
  48. 3 likes
    I have an 02, 6 spd with stock injectors and turbo and the truck has logged 270,000 miles. I started using the Smarty S03 about a year ago. I have been following this very interesting discussion and have learned quite a lot about the Smarty S03 that I didn't know. Your research and your explanation of how the fueling maxes out at 50% of throttle position on most of the SW settings (except for SW3) makes sense to me. I have only experimented with settings SW1 through SW5, but I did notice that the SW3 seem to have the smoothest and most predictable throttle response. I tried your recommended settings (TM - 3, T -1, D-5) for the last 1200 miles of driving and I liked the results. 700 hundred of those miles were towing a travel trailer (combined weight of 12,500 lbs) at 70 mph on a freeway and 60 mph on a two-lane yielding 13.5 mpg. The other 500 miles were mostly freeway with just an empty truck at 70 mph yielding 20.2 mpg. The truck performed well, both towing and empty. Thanks to you and others logging and analyzing data and sharing the information, I now have a much better understanding of how the Smarty programmer works. Thank you for sharing this information - it is very much appreciated. - John
  49. 3 likes
    I can't wait! I know he doesn't like to brag but he mentioned one guy towing a huge triple axle toy hauler all over the US with something like 75k worth of hauling it on the rebuilt trans and when he went to service it he said it looked as good as the day he built the trans. That's the kind of longevity and piece of mind I'm looking for!
  50. 3 likes
    Welcome to the greatest cummins site ever. Sounds like you're on the right track checking the alternator. I'm not sure if your scan gauge can monitor your apps, or you can use a Multimeter and check resistance and make sure there is no dead spots. I don't believe it's a good thing unplugging sensors and leaving them unplugged, not only you should get an ecl light but you're breaking the 5-volt loop. I believe your old quad as you say, is capable of being a new badass quad. Just get a quad BT for Android device if that's what you have and flush new software to it from this site. You'll be able to monitor a lot of things, apps included, and get lots more power without wiretap. I believe someone like @Me78569 will be able to help most on your issue, as he knows how to debug and rewire a grumpy woman's brain. Not calling your truck a woman or anything just a reference, no offense to anyone.
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