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Showing most liked content since 02/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Sadly, many "built" valve bodies are simply pre-"shift kitted" bodies. And, yes, a "shift kit" will raise your line pressure a bit, and firm up the shifts. That's actually the super easy part. Guys will "kit" their valve body, feel the shifts a little more positively than they did before, and drive off satisfied. And, if that was your goal, then mission accomplished... But these transmissions need quite a bit more pressure than simply putting in a heavier PR spring will give you. This is especially true when guys are using tuners and "chips" to bump their power. While these products are great, and work well, what ends up happening is that your engine will make significantly more power for a given amount of throttle pedal travel that it did with OEM calibrations alone. So, as a result, you end up doing all of your daily driving (your non-"spirited" driving, if you will) with significantly less throttle applied than before. The thing is that your transmission relies on throttle pedal travel (read TV cable movement) to adjust its operating pressure to handle the torque being applied to it. So you end up with a line pressure to torque ratio that is far from favorable. The stiffer PR springs that come in "shift kits" are a step in the right direction in that they do boost line pressure, but it's not nearly enough to reliably handle what you're asking it to do. Developing an optimal pressure curve requires, first of all, an understanding of how these valve bodies control pressure, which is different than pretty much anything else in the transmission world. But suffice it to say that manipulating the hydraulic signals that act on the PR valve is where all of the magic happens in a well built custom valve body. There are several ways to do this, depending upon your end goal, but that's what is necessary to achieve a really good pressure curve. Once you achieve a desirable pressure curve, you will need to deal with the shift and lockup calibrations. If you tried to use stock shift calibrations with an optimal pressure curve, it would, at the very least, be quite unpleasant to drive. Specially designed separator plates with substantially undersized calibration orifices are really the only solution to this dilemma. Again...stuff that a "shift kit" doesn't address. As far as other things a "shift kit" won't give you (at least in a 47RE, which is what we're discussing here), the list would include: ability to lock the converter in any forward gear (including manual 2nd), ability to perform a locked 4-3 downshift, performing an earlier and more positive 3-2 downshift, some cooling and lube control mods, revised boost valve strategy, etc... Why don't I like Transgo in the Chrysler VB? A few reasons... Reason #1: biggest in my book is that they have you grind the land on the switch valve, which effectively removes its ability to regulate converter charge pressure. This is most significant at high throttle settings in reverse, where pressures can easily exceed 250 psi, especially with the stiffer spring you just put in there. This can (and does) balloon torque converters. Reason #2: I don't at all care for the way that they reverse the function of the OD accumulator, and then give you their crappy springs to put in there to try and control OD apply. Personally, with the right calibrations, I find it much easier to control OD apply (especially at high throttle settings) with the OEM style hydraulic accumulator. Reason #3: they remove the function of the part-throttle portion of the 2-3 valve train. This auxiliary portion of the valve body removes TV oil from the 3-2 valve train once a certain amount of governor pressure (road speed) is achieved. I prefer to leave this active for driveability reasons. Reason #4: their manual valve is not nearly as effective as others on the market. I simply do not care for their manual valve. Superior's valve is the best on the market, in my opinion... Sorry for the novel...
  2. 6 points
    After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally finds a morsel of cheese. Again, as it is well known @Mopar1973Man was the only entity who positively identified the instigating source of this key issue. My entry today is not about alternators...it is about what Daimler/Chrysler did in regard to production of these Cummins powered platforms and the complete disregard of common sense Electronic Engineering. Please note, this applies to automatic and manual transmissions as each platform is plagued in the same manor with different quirks. This Blk/Tan #8 gage wire is quite critical in the scheme of things. It is contained within a 1" plastic conduit passing along the front of the engine. It contains water temp sensor leads, air conditioning leads, alternator/PCM leads and the #6 gage alternator charge line to the PDC. This #8 gage Blk/Tan passes over the top/backend of the alternator and is "eventually" connected to the Auxiliary Battery (passenger side) negative terminal. This snapshot of the Factory Service manual documents "four critical ground leads" that are "spliced" in an unconventional method. This photo depicts the three #18 gage wires and the single #14 gage wire entering the shrink-tubing where the "crush-splice" occurs. This bundle exits the large plastic conduit below the VP44 This again is a most disturbing depiction of the Daimler/Chrysler method of splicing critical ground leads and then routing this across the top of the alternator and "eventually" bringing this to ground reference. This photo depicts where this #8 gage Blk/Tan first connects on the way to "eventual" ground...yes this is the Auxiliary Battery tray connector. Please note: it is spliced again and joins the PCM circuit board grounds...which are critical in their own nature...and "eventually" terminate at the negative post of the Auxiliary Battery's negative terminal. This photo is very interesting, it is the Factory Service manual and the assembly line documentation follows this as a road map in the matrix during production. Please NOTE the title "NAME" to each battery...I looked at this for a considerable amount of time before I realized the assembly line coordinators tried to work with the documentation from the Engineering Staff to "make it as it looks"...Could this single oversight be the reason of a four foot ten inch critical ground wire combination traveling the distance to "EVENTUALLY" terminate at ground? From a basic engineering standpoint regarding ground...you "NEVER CHOOSE THE PATH OF EVENTUAL GROUND" !!! It is to be the shortest and most concise connection in reference to ground...this is biblical in ALL ELECTRONICS...including pickup trucks. ! Here is the Factory Service manual documenting the PCM circuit board reference ground starting as a pair of #14 gage wires being spliced into a #10 gage bundle and arriving at the Auxiliary Battery through another connector that joins a #8 gage wire that is "splice-joined" under plastic conduit in a Y configuration joining the rouge #8 gage "after passing over the alternator" traversing the entire engine compartment from the driver side of the vehicle. Seriously I have been drinking excessively, most recently, due to the nature of this blatant discovery. This is the hidden Y splice at the Auxiliary Battery where the "mess" EVENTUALLY terminates for ground reference. This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location It took a little research to find the size and proper thread-pitch. Metric M5 with a 5/16" hex head is perfect This is where you apply a fresh "quality" #6 gage ground and terminate this at the Main Battery negative post on the drivers side for absolute ground reference for the VP44 and ECM This is a very short and concise reference to ground. This is the corrected procedure for a rather critical ground. The two largest wires originally contained within the 1 inch conduit are no longer present and located well away from the alternator. My alternator B+ "charge" line is now a #4 gage line directly connected to the Auxiliary Battery and when my new battery terminals arrive and they are secured, I'll provide photos of a completed Master Power Supply System within this engine bay. With these corrections, I would hypothesize that a poor ripple specification on a given alternator would be overcome by the immense capacitance of the parallel batteries and would become less prone to causing the dreaded TC lock/unlock for automatics and cruise-control abnormalities for the manual transmission platforms. The #8 gage Blk/Tan passing over the alternator as an "EVENTUAL" ground is gone...the PCM, ECM, VP44 and the PDC are now grounded in accordance of standard Electronic Engineering practices. Respectfully W-T
  3. 6 points
    The billet front cover is all about flex due to the converter clutch pushing against the inside of it. When the converter clutch applies, the apply piston simply pushes the disc(s) against the inside of the front cover, locking the turbine to the front cover. With increased pressures, the force with which the disc(s) are pressed against the cover increases also. Under heavy apply pressure, the stock stamped steel covers will flex, which makes the apply surface that the disc(s) is pressing against begin to take on a cone shape, reducing its apply surface. A billet cover helps to prevent (if not totally eliminate) this flexing and coning. Converter ballooning can and does still occur, even with a billet cover. Ballooning typically takes place on the impeller side (back) of the converter, in the hub area, and is the result of excessive converter charge pressure. In a 47RE or 48RE transmission, the converter charge pressure is regulated (to about 130-135 psi) by the switch valve in the valve body. Much of the time, in forward gears, line pressure is not high enough to need any regulation (assuming a stock valve body here), but in reverse, where line pressures can be quite high even in stock form, this regulation is extremely important. Imagine backing a large trailer up an incline. You'll likely need a fairly significant amount of throttle to make things move. This will drive the line pressure to pretty significant levels, and without regulation from the switch valve, your converter will see ALL of that pressure, leading to ballooning around the hub. Now, enter the myriad of different "shift kits" and valve bodies that are on the market. Pretty much all of them will increase line pressure across the board at least a moderate amount, which is no problem, assuming an active regulator at the switch valve. BUT, I see many valve bodies come across my bench with either the switch valve land ground down (ie. our good friends at Transgo), or the balance hole in the separator plate blocked off. Both of these "mods" will remove the switch valve's ability to regulate converter charge pressure. Couple this with an increase in line pressure (sometimes a substantial increase), and you've go a recipe for a ballooned converter.
  4. 5 points
    I appreciate all of this stuff but after @trreedand @W-Ts dissertation above I think me and the micro Henry's are going to have to sit in the corner for a little while.
  5. 5 points
    Had some good fun today here on some posts. Thought maybe I would not clutter up some of threads with this. I remember and still believe in this, "sticks and stones may break my bones but words will never hurt me". Heard that alot growing up. I know times are a good bit different then than they are now, but all sides could benefit from this. The other thing that bugs me is folks have just about forgot how to laugh at themselves. We all do stupid **** that is worthy of a laugh, I know I do. Here is my baby brothers number so he can verify my stupidity, BR549. When I was pre teen they banned the Amos and Andy show because it stereo typed black folks. Those guys were extremely funny for those that don't know who they are. One of my favorite shows on tv today is the Andy Griffith show. A major product of the 60's. All white guys, a sign of the times, but Andy is surrounded by dumb white guys in every episode. To this day the black and white episodes are hilarious but In the same respect they show morals and how to laugh at ones self. That laughter, in my head and sometimes to my face, helps me keep my sanity. Maybe a quick trip to Oregon will help, eh there, @JAG1? Thanks for the soap box there Mikey.
  6. 4 points
    I know that this is a SUPER old post, but I wanted to clear up some misinformation... A stock 47RE valve body will lock up, if commanded, in 2nd gear. It will not lock up in MANUAL 2nd... The lockup valve in the lower valve body is hydraulically prevented from stroking when manual 2nd is selected. The process of using JB Weld, epoxy, a bolt, aluminum rod...or whatever, that guys are referring to in this thread is for blocking the passage that provides that signal to the lockup valve. Besides blocking that passage, there should also be an exhaust passage added downstream of the barrier. The best way to block this passage is to use a separator plate that does not have the passage in it in the first place. Carry on...
  7. 4 points
    A smoke free tune is just as fast as a smokey tune. I've run a TON of testing. Anything over a light haze is a complete waste of fuel.
  8. 4 points
  9. 4 points
    Plenty of us, including me, have mechanical gauges in the cab. It is not a deal breaker.
  10. 4 points
  11. 4 points
    If I could add to this, if you can’t find the noise, what makes you think a mechanic will? Most mechanics won’t give it much time, if the trucks running right, it’s fine. Unless it’s blatantly loud, turns it’s likely obvious what it is. Just saying, being a mechanic doesn’t means they can fix everything.
  12. 4 points
    Measure front steering tow in/out. Drive a 16p nail through a 2-3' long 2X4. Jack up a front wheel and with white spray paint spray a line on the center of the tire while spinning the wheel. Before the paint dries place the tip of the nail on the center of the tire. Holding the 2X4, so the nail doesn't move, spin the tire. Now you have reference points front and back of the tire to measure. Do the same to the other tire. Place tires on ground with weight of truck on them. Using a stick,2X2 and no shorter than 77", place it against the front of the 2 tires and mark on it where the center of the tires are. Now take the stick to the rear of the tires. Using one of the marks on the stick as a common point for front and back of the right tier mark the stick where the left rear center line is. Measure the distance between these two marks and this will be the front end tow set. If the front measuring mark is greater than the rear then the wheels are towed out, and if less then they are towed in.
  13. 4 points
    The drifts are getting to be chest deep! Another sure fire way to measure snow depth is just toss a 4 year old boy into the front yard. If he disappears then yep that's a lot of snow.
  14. 4 points
    Those Hillbillies I tell ya....
  15. 4 points
    Because a chicken pecked me in the forehead. You gotta a problem with that, pecker head? Ok Dave mellow out. I will be in Oregon if you need me.
  16. 4 points
    I will tell you my age, grab a match book striker to clean up your points and turn the distributed cap to get your timing close. Coil overs had me scratchin head when I first saw them. The only tools you needed then was a hammer, case knife, and never show up with out a coat hanger and some duct tape.
  17. 4 points
    We don’t need your sound logic and judgement round here! *puts tin foil hat on* To the OP. If I were to be redoing things again today, I’d get an Airdog through Eric at Vulcan just because Eric at Vulcan. I trust him personally to make things right if something were to ever go wrong more than either company combined.
  18. 3 points
  19. 3 points
    Yeah, you're dealing with the factory programming, which is not that great. Your situation is exacerbated by your gearing. It is my understanding that Chrysler received the engine assemblies from Cummins complete with electronics (APPS, ECM, etc.), and ready to drop in as a pre-configured unit. The ECM simply outputs a 0-5V TPS signal (based off of the APPS signal the ECM sees) and crank sensor signal (to reference engine RPM) to the PCM for use in controlling the transmission. There are a myriad of different - let's call them "anomalies"...to be polite - that I would find "work-arounds" to if I was a smarter guy. This is definitely one of them. I have, on one truck that I built a transmission for, played around with some fixed resistors on the TPS signal line to delay the shift into OD, which did work, but that truck was a 12 valve with a 47RH, so I was just manipulating OD and TCC lockup. I would surmise that the same could be accomplished on a 47RE with some ingenuity.
  20. 3 points
    For now i would clean up the connection and make sure you seat it good to see if that's the problem. I know those quick disconnects have a bad rep but mine have been in use for 6 plus years and they are still working fine.
  21. 3 points
    and I offically poor well poorer than I was this morning. 2018 3500 CrewCab Longbed 4x4 Cummins g56 baby manual 4x4 selector low volume Mightnight blue ( only blue left to choose from) park assist beeper thing ( wife wanted it) Trailer brake 5th wheel prep pop equiptment group cold weather msrp: $54,210 $4,151 in discounts $3,750 in rebates 46350 before fee's tax tag and title. This is what they say it will look like Now I have to wait
  22. 3 points
    I would not do that. If air intrusion is suspected the last thing you want to to is suck water and soap onto the fuel stream and send that to the IP and injectors. Besides you will never see a single bubble on any line under vacuum or pressurized fluid. Read Blue Chip's section on long crank times. He outlines air in fuel validation. Lets talk about the replacement lift pump. Is that in your signature? It has air separation? Where is the return line on the lift pump plumbed in? Did you replace all the lines from the tank to the IP? Quick connect on the tank?
  23. 3 points
    Great bunch of yay hoos!!! I'm totally "stoked" (yes I was born in So Cal) I found ya'll. I have a genetic mutation when it comes to cars and machines. Most think me odd but when I find people with the same mutation I feel right at home. You guys get it... Seriously this group is making my new old truck exponentially more fun to work on and have. Much appreciated.
  24. 3 points
    We all know how good success feels even on the smallest thing. If it was not for these yay hoos here the last 150k on my truck might not have happened. Great place with great people with the very similar goals. We also enjoy sharing what got us to where we are so others can do the same. We very much enjoy having fun while we do it.
  25. 3 points
    You people are both entertaining and helpful. I think they call that edutainment. Whatever it's called you guys rock. Thanks!!!!!
  26. 3 points
    Are you always this repetitious? My goodness.
  27. 3 points
    Got it! Yes I got ahold of Eric, good guy right there. He said the dimensions can vary depending on the truck. He said go ahead and force it. So the hoses slipped over the 2nd hump in the tube. All is well! Thanks everyone for the tips.
  28. 3 points
    650,000 MILES! this past week Mine 99 2500, 53 block, lilt pump in tank now. 650k mi today. Afe filter cleaned once a year whether it needs it or o=not. Same with an oil change. up to 30k. Several years of constantly watching alt AC and lockup issues, One ECM about 3 ev44's, no issues since lift pump to tank. Rebuilt front end mostly once and several track bars until Good Moog problem solver.Engine or head never out, valves adjusted twice, one radiator leaked.cleaned external twice+two sets of starter contacts and one brush job. Couple of trani output gears in to the TC. NO other hard parts for trani. Nw that replaced the Tappet cover and Vacuum pump seal and sleeve again and controlled most leaks, not not more thant w spots of anything, pan seeps but never off. Uses Walmart oil from major mfg in Texas, Uses about a quart in 1000-2000 miles. GETS 17-21 MPG. DRIVE IT LINK A GRANDPA EVERY MINUTE. SELDOM OVER 54-62. SEMI'S DRAFT NICELY.
  29. 3 points
    160K. 15 mpg in traffic , 17-19 highway. 14 with the gooseneck.
  30. 3 points
    225K on the body, 70K on the trans, 15K on the clutch, 35K on the motor (all in miles). Doesn't get the best mileage, but gets 15 around town and 18-19 on the highway.
  31. 3 points
    The thing that I'm learning is parts degrade over time you might not notice the changes over time but they are happening. What woke me up was the fact that I gave in on the tie rod ends and replace them. Now that I've replace the tie rods and had it realigned I'm totally shocked at how the truck drives now. Whole new animal. Like driving a sports car now. Handles wonderfully! This 336k miles adventure I've been on has taught me many things. Every lesson I learn I try to pass on to other Cummins truck owners. Sometimes you have to think outside the box and use a bit of brain power to figure out the puzzles. Like my current puzzle is alternators. I'm like many other people here I plan on running my truck till there is nothing left of the old beast. I'm planning on crossing the 500k milestone for sure. Just for fun some of the long-lasting stuff I had to replace. 2 VP44's - 50k and 243k miles Ball joints currently - 157k, OEM set 185k miles OEM Tie Rods - 335k miles AirDog 150 - 286k miles (12 years old!) Unit bearings OEM - 150k miles, 155k miles on the second set One set of brake pads 185k miles Rear calipers 295k miles There are lots more on my truck that is factory original yet.
  32. 3 points
    Yeah he's mad his favorite shoe store won't sell him just the right shoe since that's the only one he wears out. On side note: I think Dripley found a hidden smog device....' fuel restricter lines'.... next thing you know they be all plumbed in with 1/2'' threaded pipe.... what a nightmare
  33. 3 points
    When a carpenter thinks he's a mechanic.
  34. 3 points
    Are you offering free instructions for that?
  35. 3 points
    Thanks for the pictures guys I pulled some muscle while under my truck in a wierd position on my creeper working , Big pain this morning, It sucks getting old .
  36. 3 points
    Welcome to the club my fellow moron.
  37. 3 points
    I like the motivated part my self. Hard to get motivated when the only day you have to work is a Saturday the back to work Sunday. I am long over due on these same things.
  38. 3 points
    I hear that. In talking about this today, me being in rain country, I actually got motivated to cleaning up the garage. Its a long process since there is a lot of smalls scattered about, but the main thing is I actually got started and that's a milestone for me. I reorganized the woodshed and got things out there to make it easier.
  39. 3 points
    It is perfectly safe to run MPG mode when it is cold. I suggest you wait until the truck is warmed up before going into MPG mode. MPG mode does NOT do anything to fueling. MPG mode actually REDUCES timing that that the ECM adds when IAT and ECT are cold. The edge will just add timing on top of what the ecm wants. No neg effect.
  40. 3 points
  41. 3 points
    Ha ha I worked in negative temperatures outside plenty of time but it's definitely for yong blood.
  42. 3 points
    Air separation is a HUGE farce that should not be carried into any decision for a fuel system. Stop it.
  43. 3 points
    Can anyone say wheelie machine!? Probably the same guy that invented this.
  44. 3 points
    I think Diesel future shops at Safeway.
  45. 3 points
  46. 3 points
    Your welcome bud..... and you know... them dang things seem to know when my old CO2 gun goes out. Here they all start drilling, then soon as I come home with a new 15 shot they're gone for months.
  47. 3 points
    Damn we both have something in common. Peckers trying to drill something. I am choking on my laughter, hope you are. Have not laughed all day, many thanks!!!
  48. 3 points
    Sorry I'll go back to my corner.
  49. 3 points
    All most all part store alternators are Chinese rebuilds. The Chinese rebuilders get the cores from where ever, clean them up, replace only what is bad, paint them and ship tem back to the States. They hope it will last till either the warranty is up, you lose the receipt, get rid of the vehicle or just go away. They don't care because it's a numbers game. They have your good money and you have there junk.
  50. 3 points
    ok boys....feast your eyes....
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