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  1. Mopar1973Man

    Mopar1973Man

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  2. dripley

    dripley

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  3. IBMobile

    IBMobile

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  4. Silverwolf2691

    Silverwolf2691

    Yearly Subscription


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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/23/2021 in all areas

  1. Sorry Jag, I am at @Dieselfuture's house helping to keep the coolers from overloading. Them damn chickens can run all they want. Makes the legs bigger.
    5 points
  2. That's to bad.@dripleywas looking forward to earning his.
    5 points
  3. I skipped vegie gardening this year and been enjoying more candy an doughnuts. Man is it ever fun to get a big gooey chewie and coffee in the morn. Now my belly is bigger but I'm happy. Not taking on big responsibilities anymore and enjoying more time off. Now back to normal eating with the oatmeal and fruits again, I feel better. We been doing whatever we want going wherever we want all thru this worldwide Virus Mania. No wearing of the stupid mask as much as possible everywhere. Not sick probably because I breath well, outdoors most of the time and not thru some kind of synthetic fabric made with chemicals. I also excersize well, work well around my place and on the job. I do not stress one little tiny bit about the virus. Not going to hide in a shell... I want my immune system to get to work fighting all the daily attacks and stay strong.
    4 points
  4. I remember back in the late 70's there was a drought and there was water restrictions and there have been several droughts since then. The last major dam built in Cali was 1979. Do you think they stopped building homes, condos, or apartments...NO. They say "people need a place to live" I say fine let them live some where else. It's the same with electricity here; not enough power during high demand times so the state has a "Flex Alert" for people to conserve power by setting the AC to 80, turn off all non essential appliances, and (here is my favorite) don't charge your electric cars. In my county in the past few years the closed two oil fired power plants along with two nuclear power reactors and replaced them with a few wind turbines. This is the stuff 3ed world countries are made of. Well they got what they voted for.
    4 points
  5. Just working on The Beast. Got the steering box adjusted good. Fixing my fuse for the alternator. New seat covers and even washed The Beast off. Had to have a few tools so Thor got in on the photo.
    4 points
  6. I found a car for dripley and you can be incognito in it. He's selling it for chicken feed.
    4 points
  7. This chicken was running so fast he passed several cars in a 65 MPH interstate. Passing in the emergency lane and estimated to be doing 95, one of the cars saw him get off at the next exit and tried to follow. He was lucky enough to see which farm he went into, so he pulled up and asked the farmer working outside how this chicken could be so darn fast. The farmer went on to say that some he raises have three legs. He asks why raise chickens with 3 legs and the farmer says well me and my wife and son like drumsticks and that's three of us. Well, do they taste good, he asks? The farmer says, 'I don't know I never caught one"
    4 points
  8. For those of you who have been following my frustrations with a massive oil leak from my 2000 4wd, 1 tn, auto, flatbed Ram, you will be happy to know that I finally got the problem solved. As the problem and its solution are, I believe, somewhat unique, I thought that I should post my experiences here on the Forum for all of you to get a chuckle. My problem developed a couple of months ago as when returning from a cross country trip the truck started losing massive amounts of oil. The entire under carriage of the Ram and even the car trailer I was towing was covered in oil. I was using about a gallon of oil every 100 miles. Anyway I pulled into a diesel shop in Kingman, AZ and got the diagnosis of a leaking tappet cover gasket. They said that they were too busy to get to the job for at least a week, but if I endeavored to keep oil in the truck on the 1200 miles (12 gallons of oil) remaining, I shouldn't do any damage to the engine. With a grin the mechanic also commented that at least I wouldn't have to worry about any rust in the near future. To make a long story short, I limped home putting oil in the truck every 100 miles. When home I went to the local diesel mechanic who said that he couldn't get the job for at least two weeks. So with the help of Mopar1973Man and others, I took on the job myself and finally got it done. Anyway, a week after my tappet gasket replacement, I needed to take a 1000 mile round-trip to the East Coat to pick up some parts I had purchased. I had not gotten 50 miles down the road when it became apparent that I had not stopped the oil leak. As I had no choice. I again pulled into the local Walmart, bought them out of diesel oil, and continued on my trip. When I got back home, I went to a different diesel mechanic and asked for a diagnosis of my problem. He crawled under the truck and informed me that I had a significant pan gasket leak. When I asked him to fix the problem, he informed me that he was booked up for at least 3 weeks. So again with help from members of this forum, I undertook the job of replacing the pan gasket. While replacing the pan gasket, as the truck motor was jacked up and partially torn apart, I took this opportunity to also add a "big line kit" to my VP44 inlet, replace the solenoids and accessible sensors in the transmission, and add "A column" gauges of fuel pressure, boost, and exhaust temperature. While doing all this work I discovered a badly deteriorated engine mount bushing ( from being soaked in oil ) which is now on my to do list. To be able to more easily work in and around the pan and transmission, I also cleaned the entire undercarriage of the truck. You can imagine that I was quite proud of my completed work. I had no more than completed the gasket replacement when I got a call from a friend near Chicago (450 miles from me) who said that he had found a Ford Falcon camper van for me to buy at a ridiculous low price. As he knew I had wanted a Class B R/V, I immediately took off in my Ram and car trailer to pick up the motorhome. Heck, what could go wrong after a pan gasket replacement and a few new gauges? Again, I had gotten no more than 50 miles from my home when I nearly ran out of oil. Now I was really pxxxxsed off! With again no choice, I stopped at the local Walmart and bought 12 gallons of oil. Along the way I stopped at two diesel repair shops and got diagnosis for my problem of a leaking rear main seal and a failed head gasket. In both cases they were too busy to get to my problem for at least 10 days. When I arrived in Morris, IL, I explained my problem to my friend who suggested that I should take my truck to a local repair shop where he had had good results. Anyway I called them, explained my problem. and they took pity on the poor out-of-town traveler and agreed to see me the next morning. The next morning I arrive at D&R Racing before they opened. After hearing my sad story the D&R Manager informed me, that as they had recently hired a mechanic who used to work for Cummins, they would put him on it right away. The mechanic took about 10 minutes inspecting my engine above and below with a flashlight and turned to me with grin on his face. His only comment was "that oil seems to be coming from a strange place." He next got out his tools and removed the bolts holding the diesel filter in place. As I had recently put a rubber big line kit between the VP44 and the filter, replacing the metal fuel line, it was easy for him to move the filter completely out of the way without removing it. He had no more than moved the filter when he called out to the other mechanics, " Hey guys, come over here, you gotta see this!" When they all departed chuckling, he called me over and explained. "The Cummins 5.9 block and been cast for many years and used in many different applications without much in the way of changes to the basic configuration. Early 5.9's and some nonautomotive applications had even used a mechanical fuel pump to provide fuel to the engine. Anyway as a provision for a mechanic fuel pump the basic block had a hole in its side allowing the pump lifter arm to ride on a lobe of the cam shaft. In normal and later applications this hole was covered by a gasket and a cover plate which was held in place by two bot holes machined into the block to secure the mechanical fuel pump. In my case someone had removed the plate, or never installed it originally, and attempted to close the hole with simply gasket material covered in RTV and held in place by the two retaining bolts- only one of which was still screwed into my block." The mechanic comment that in 30 years of working on 5.9's he had never seen this. I may have mixed up his explanation a bit, but sure enough, while I was watching, he started the motor and oil was pouring out of a 1/2 inch diameter hole only partially covered with torn gasket material. As I had purchased the truck with 175K, and I had never tampered with this area on the block, and as it now has 330K on it, it has taken at least 155K miles for the gasket material patch to break through. Heck, the mechanic said with a grin, " They may have forgotten to add the cover plate at the factory." With a 1/2 hour of labor, a new manufactured cover plate, and some new gasket material and RTV, I was back on the road. It turns out that all the gasket repair work I did was unnecessary. Hundreds of, if not thousands of, dollars for oil and replacement parts were spent when only a 2x3 inch plate and some gasket material would have solved the problem. I don't usually mention diesel repair shop names, but under the circumstances, having gone to 5 other diesel mechanics and gotten erroneous diagnosis, I would recommend now that if any of you are in the Morris, IL area (about 50 miles south of Chicago) and need diesel repair help, you know my experience with R&N Racing. The final chapter to my story is that during the nearly 500 mile return trip home, I did not use a quart of oil! Only thing remaining is to get back under the truck now and again remove all the slimy undercoat - aw heck, I might just leave it as a rust preventative. Oh, by the way, I am having a garage sale this weekend, the featured item being a really good price on 12 gallons of unused diesel motor oil. PS. For all you 5.9 owners, you might should get out a flash light and a mirror and look behind your fuel filter, you never know!!
    4 points
  9. Maybe because they're idiots?
    4 points
  10. Only four other people have driven my truck since I've owned it. A friend, so he could take his dad to the hospital when we were camping, @JAG1 , @Mopar1973Man, and my wife because she owns half of it. I've had a few others ask to "borrow it" and the answer is "go to U-Haul; they rent them".
    3 points
  11. @Tractorman has a point. Both the NV5600 and G56 are heavier duty, more reliable is up to driving style. NV4500s have a gap between 3rd gear and 4th gear (god that feels a lot larger driving it...) 1st - 5.61 2nd - 3.04 3rd - 1.67 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.73 NV5600 1st - 5.63 2nd - 3.38 3rd - 2.04 4th - 1.39 5th - 1.00 6th - 0.73 G56 - two different gear sets apparently. Quote from Cummins Forum: Two different transmission gear ratios are used. To verify, look at the last two letters on the transmission bar code label. The last two letters on the bar code located on the right side of the transmission will be AD or AE. AD AE 1st - 6.29 5.94 2nd - 3.48 3.28 3rd - 2.10 1.98 4th - 1.38 1.31 5th - 1.00 1.00 6th - 0.79 0.74 Downfalls are the NV5600 is heavy and discontinued, so parts are getting scarce. but its stronger than an NV4500. G56s are an aluminum cased transmission that is prone to cracking if you do a lot of racing, boosted launches, etc. @dripley, its not a bolt in affair. I think TFaoro dauntless89 on CF put one in his truck. Had to modify the crossmember due to the size of the transfer case. The NP271/NP273 are the only strength upgrades from an NP241DHD. They are the same transfer case but the 273 I think is the electric shift, with the 271 being lever shifted. https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/so-you-think-you-wanna-g56-your-4wd-12v.1425954/
    3 points
  12. A few words from the other side of the fence. i got vaccinated as soon as it was available to me. i do realize this was produced rather quickly, a product of operation Warp Speed as I recall. I still believe it was right thing to do for me, my wife and MIL. Folks have died from this virus by the 100's of thousands. We may never know the true numbers since I do believe that some that died was because it was the last straw there system could take. By that I mean a lot deaths maybe should not have attributed to the virus. If you go back read about the flu pandemic that hit the world back 1919 and 20 the death rate was way beyond what we have experienced. Folks back then met that with same trepidations the we are seeing now and the death rate from that pandemic made this one look like cake walk. Now that being said, I did not write this to tell anyone they are wrong, last time checked this is still free country and we all have the right to believe what you want to believe. And I have the utmost respect for all my friends and members here. Just my worth. On a different note, my chickens might have 3 legs but I never grew anything odd on me after the vaccination.
    3 points
  13. 3 points
  14. A lot have to do with how we live our lives, stress is number one killer and starter of most all illness. If we grow and eat our own food we wouldn't have these issues, or at least it would be very rare. We all have cancer in our bodies and our immune system keeps things in check, if we get stressed and eat junk with little sleep we invite all these problems to our life. B17 is one of the demonized drugs that can cure cancer, but I still think prevention is by far better then the battle. Hydrogen peroxide available almost anywhere, 10-15 drops in a glass of water every morning will keep you from getting seek, of course you can't rely just on that alone, healthy way of leaving is priority.
    3 points
  15. AAAmazing, Thank you Dieselfuture. We hit water when drilling in 1995 at 51 feet it yielded 50 gallons per minute at the time. Then driller said I'm going another 10 feet for summer drop off. I said go another 20 feet for extreme drought conditions just in case. He said okay it's your money and fired up the drill and kept going. Glad I did.
    3 points
  16. What he said ^^^ I used a shop vac when scraping the gasket off, that way everything was sucked up as soon as it was lose, it's a but of paint in the but to have a scraper in one hand and hose in the other bending over the engine bit it's a piece of mind.
    3 points
  17. Wouldn't that be something to show up with at the jobsite.
    3 points
  18. Picked up truck Thursday am. Drove it home 55 miles Shifts perfectly exhaust brake works as before. He had no problems with the mods . Valve body was in bad shape. Either the governor pressure solenoid failed and over pressured the vb or vice a versa Will never know . He commented how firm the up shifts and down shifts were . Always has been a firm shifting truck DTT put a 85 percent converter in it and it flat hooks up. Three hours at $95 per hour so $285 labor my parts vb solenoid and sensor. 12 quarts of valvoline atf +4 and one can of red lubeguard. All parts BD diesel quality parts I really like there parts and service etc and recommend them highly. With $200 core charge return it cost me about $1600 and State Farm help with the flat bed 55 mile charge. Then theirs the local transmission shop that charged me $150 to tell me it had a code and they didn’t do electrical duh and I now have a good tranny again price was right and only took 2 months And I actually found a real mechanic in the process. I’m a happy camper and I really appreciate everyone’s help. Thank You
    3 points
  19. Hope this is ok to put here. I wanted to put the history and semi build up of my truck so far for both record and might be able to help others some how. So, I have been a dodge fan for years, partly because my father works at a dodge dealership and because the only non dodge product we have ever had in the family was a mid 2000s Subaru Legacy. My first time driving anything was when I was like 3-6 years old, my father let me steer his Jeep Grand Wagoneer down the road. We actually still have that jeep but it has fallen into disrepair because of reasons. I personally have had a 1999 Jeep Cherokee (on loan from the parents), 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 (was my first vehicle I could call my own, sold a few years ago), 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 (nearly my dream truck, needed to be a sport to be my 100% dream truck), currently also own a 2019 Ram 2500 (needed because I chose to start sled pulling with the 2001 Cummins and I needed a second vehicle). Also have a 2016 Yamaha Stryker for a motorcycle. So this was the morning after it was dropped off to me in 2015: I actually bought the truck off of a classmate of mine so that was a fun surprise. And so began my foray into the world of diesels. Unfortunately, previous owner didn't take good care of the truck. No power steering fluid, and it was really low on oil, like half of the required amount drained out my first oil change, and the steering was really all over the place. Also, the exhaust was cut off right at the end of the cab, and the mounting rod that attaches to the tranny had broken off allowing the exhaust to just rattle against the tranny crossmember. So I swapped it to a set of MBRP cool duals. Out with the old In with the new. Few months later gave the truck a bath. Also after, digging through my photos, I don't take a lot of photos of the projects I've done. Or I cant find them. First big issue was that when I went and got new tires for the truck, the place that was doing the alignment broke my nv5600. Unfortunately, said place is a regional chain in the northeast and gave me $500 as compensation after the company that rebuilt the tranny said that they had seen this kind of failure quite often. they forced the shifter into a place it wasn't supposed to be and separated the circular thing from the actual shift rails. Top right corner is where it was disconnected. So i used this time to get a fresh rebuilt tranny, rebuilt driveshafts, a Valair dual disk clutch and new shift tower.
    3 points
  20. Way I do it is get down to the hard part, drink coffee while starring at it I call MoparMan 50 times. Works every time.
    3 points
  21. power windows and front door locks: yes.
    3 points
  22. Well I guess a little update here: To piggy back on the CPP ordeal, I received my package (2 of 3) item Friday at 1530 right as I was leaving the shop. After all that with no means of reasonable communication, doesn't make since but whatever. Got my new dash installed- see pics, went way easier than I was anticipating, color difference is there but not super noticeable one pic shows it pretty good I believe, got my new bezel installed and new power/heated tow mirrors installed -parts truck had a mirror switch, and a new blower motor resistor... LMC- Dash $250 Geno's- Bezel $85 CPP*- Mirrors $130 Gonna pull CTM and heater controller from donor truck today or Monday. Then need to replace rear pinion seal and tailshaft seal on transfercase. @Silverwolf2691 the weep hole was in the 4-5 o'clock position but good news is I have 2 extra ones laying in the shop... I'll have to decipher which seal to get on the pinion. I forget who posted it but a member on here had a decent post on pinion seals here I read and had the seal options. I attached pics of my rear end (no pun intended) for reference- any help is appreciated. I also got to start working on re-upholstering my door panels and center console. I hate not having these...
    3 points
  23. Naw... @dripley doesn't look too ruffled up... He's pretty chill dude...
    3 points
  24. Right back to the injectors since there isn't any error codes present. Normally injectors are set between 300 and 310 bar. Most performance built injectors are 300 to 305 bar to help with flow and pintle lift. Now according to Dodge FSM your allowed +/- 250 PSI to 4500 PSI (310 bar). -250 PSI from 4,500 PSI is 293 bar. Then top end +250 PSI from 4500 PSI is 327 bar. Once you drop below 290 bar injector performance get larger droplet and typically not misting anymore but acting more like a squirt gun. It's impressive to go to a injector shop and watch your old injectors just squirt and, piss, leak, and not fire right. Then wonder why it still runs good. Another way I detect the injector life is look at the engine load of the live data if it near 0% engine load the ECM is attempting to defuel enough to hit 800 RPM. Some times you'll find the engine load at 0% and the idle is about 800 maybe as high as 875 RPM. This is what my factory stock injectors did at 150k miles. Still ran good, no smoke or anything. Had them test by DAP and they were below 280 bar and pissy. My idle was 875 RPM and 0% engine load. NOTE: Just remember as injectors wear out and the pop pressure falls this means the duration is increase because it opening longer from the time it starts to the time it closes again. This also means the injector timing is ADVANCED! This is why the idle increases because the duration is longer and amount of fuel is increase so the ECM will attempt to pull the fuel down to hopefully reach 800 RPM. After having those injector bodies inspected and then new 150 HP nozzles (7 x 0.010) put on and popped to 320 bar. I was idling a perfect 800 RPM again at about 12 to 13%. Now few years later I'm down to about 7% engine load so I'm about half life on the injectors. I've got some time left before getting too pissy. NOTE: As you see I opted for 320 bar (4,641 PSI) on my injectors but knowing that I'm making the injection event later I can bump the timing in iQuad App and make up for the retard timing of the pop pressure. Basically need about another 2 degree to be right. I don't wanna high jack but... You should see the amount of people running CR injectors upwards of 150k to 200k and the amount of engine damage they take on. I just met with a gent in McCall ID with a 2007 Dodge Ram and was wondering what to do. I got the hood open and screwed the oil cap and it shot out of my hand. Then the blow by at idle was so bad the cap would not even sit in the hole it just blow the cap off again. This is all injectors wash damage from injectors not being replaced as a set but one at a time. I've got a 2015 Dodge I'm got injectors order for which the truck is so bad now she can get the regen mode to clean the DPF and its slowing plugging up. The spray pattern is complete junk and creating tons of soot just keeping the DPF full. Injectors should be here soon. I've got a buddy down the road from me with a 1994 Dodge which his Dad ran the stock injectors for +400k miles. They were so crappy and wore out after dropping in +150 HP injectors it woke that truck up seriously. Lots of good pulling power now. Rolls cxoal but a little plate adjustment and AFC starwheel it will be really a clean truck. Injectors for ANY Dodge Cummins engine (6BT or ISB) should be changed EVERY 100K to 150K miles period. No questions asked...
    3 points
  25. The old jd tractors have shutters as well. But the shutters were pretty delicate and lots of moving parts and clogged up pretty easy and we’re taken off and throwed behind the shed. Seed shacks and gunny sacks were used to try to make them run warmer to burn the tractor fuel common in that time. About 10 cents a gallon maybe a bit less. They started them on gas and switched over to tractor fuel and run them dry at night on gas so it would start the next am Bugs where not a big problem at 12 mile per hour top speed on the hiway And in the winter they open the pet cock on the radiator to let the water drain out. Antifreeze was expensive. Water was brought out from the kitchen wood stove and poured in for a warm start. I still remember the frozen water puddle under the tractors in the morning when I came outside when I was a kid And my uncle dumping hot water in the radiator . The first thing I ever drove with a motor was a jd I was about 9
    2 points
  26. That was a step in the right direction. Maybe you will let us see the top of the truck.
    2 points
  27. I dont know squat about what should have come with but I do know that
    2 points
  28. Last I heard according to my broker it’s a good idea to stock up on brass and lead
    2 points
  29. Few guys I work with always get flue shots and pretty much always get seek few months later, no difference last year, other than they were diagnosed with bs. I was next to them for few days before they were told to go home for 2 weeks and never got seek. I do get seek once in a while but it's usually for a day or two and I'm back at it. Vitamins need to be taken in winter months especially D at least 2000 ul or whatever the measurement is.
    2 points
  30. The best I can say in the ASD relay either had bad contacts inside or the plug in the PDC was a bit corroded from moisture and standing a while. I'm going to be working on getting the pine pitch of the windshield and waxing the paint up. Gotta make it shine again and look good. Finally got my wish a good 2006 Dodge for a work truck and then retire the 2002 to the weekend warrior hauling trailers (wood haul, RV or both!) Just talking to another buddy about getting firewood this weekend I might get super smart and haul the RV up the mountain near the spot and just camp out while wood hauling. Be right in the area then then just truck the pile home back and forth. Be able to get up early and start cutting quicker in the cool of the morning.
    2 points
  31. I've taking my share of vaccines in my life, but seeing what's going on in the world these days and the end goal, I'm staying away from anything that is being pushed, actually I'm starting to regret the crap I've taking over the years because I was told I needed it. I feel bad for the kids that have no choice and can't stand up for themselves and don't know any better. It's become such a taboo to talk about, soon you'll be labeled as a domestic terrorist if you go against the mainstream narrative, if not already. It seems that if this is all bs, then the whole world is on on it. This would mean they all working together as one to achieve the goal of complete human enslavement on all levels. As I'm typing this I can't help but think that somewhere this post is being stored to be used against me at some point just for thinking out loud, using my brain to process information not just go with the crowd that doesn't care. Why do I feel like I did something wrong, what happened to the great USA, I say the programming has worked flawless on the lazy masses. It's like the harder you try to make some one see what is going on the more they hate you for it. I'm not saying I'm %100 right but whatever happened to freedom of personal choices. You want something go get it but rest shouldn't be pressured to do same. I don't know what to think anymore, there's too much information out there as it's on purpose to keep you guessing and being lost to finally give up and go with the flow. Stand firm in your beliefs and move on, don't let weak spirited/minded stand in the way to live your short life. The weather is fine no more or less of chemicals in the sky then usual.
    2 points
  32. Better stuff than you were in the 60's.
    2 points
  33. View Advert 2002 Allison swapped 2500 After nine years, I’m considering selling my truck. It’s a 2002 Ram 2500 that started life as a 5-speed manual with 3.55 gears. It is now an Allison 1000 6-speed automatic with 3.73 gears and sitting at 248XXX miles on the truck. The truck is periodically driven so mileage will increase slightly. It has a clean title in my name with no lien and is currently registered in Oklahoma. Below is a list of the current equipment/modifications. Engine Built 5.9 24V Cummins (installed @ 227XXX on April 2017 > $15k) Full build sheet shown in pictures BD R700 compound turbos (57/65/14 over 71/83/1.10) BD intercooler Cummins Performance Parts 7x0.012 SAC injectors Quadzilla adrenaline tuner Flex-a-lite electric fans Full replacement battery cables Transmission 2007 Allison 1000 built by Transmasters Escondido, CA (built and installed March 2020 > $13k) Build sheet in pictures CAC Conversion Cummins-to-Allison engine adapter (total parts cost > $8k) CAC conversion Allison harness with tap shift enabled CAC conversion Allison TCM 2000 rpm upshift/ 1000 rpm downshift Allison-to-NP241 adapter Custom one-piece driveshafts front and rear Dual transmission coolers mounted in air vents of the front bumper *Cruise control remains fully functional Suspension (total parts cost > $6k) Carli signature shocks Carli 3” front coil springs Carli boxed and extended upper and lower front control arms Sprohn Performance track bar MaxxLink sway bar links front and back New sway bar bushings front and rear Synergy HD steering Fox 2.0 IFP steering stabilizer Rebuilt vacuum pump Borgeson high flow power steering pump Redhead Gear steering box Boregeson steering shaft New vacuum & power steering lines CalTracs traction bars Dana 60 front / Dana 80 rear 2007 Dodge wheels 17” BFG TA KO2 285/70.17 Load Range E tires (~30% tread remaining) 17” disc brake conversion Stainless steel brake lines Interior Boost, EGT, fuel pressure gauges on pillar Transmission temperature on the column Full dash replacement (not cracked) with dash pad since new Custom dash bezel molded to hold Android tablet for Quadzilla tuning Wet Sounds Bluetooth controller rocker switch in a custom switch plate Pyle amplifier mounted in the stock radio location Boston acoustic speakers front and rear Full replacement carpet Fourth-generation center console swap Misc. 4” Downpipe to 5” exhaust with resonator FASS Titanium 220 GPH lift pump Vulcan replacement high flow fuel module - no holes drilled in the tank for draw straw Class V receiver hitch B&W flip over gooseneck hitch Artec battery boxes mounted to factory battery trays Replacement battery cables Sport headlight conversion SofTopper collapsible bed cover The truck is clean and has no rust but the paint has some fading and worn clearcoat. As you can see from the above list, this is not the average 2nd Gen Dodge. I’ve been slowly building the truck over the last decade with the intent of keeping it for many more years; however, family factors dictate that I consider selling it. I’m not interested in entertaining joyrides, tire kickers, or lowball offers. I’m looking for a buyer who appreciates the value of the truck. I’m asking $25k but will entertain all reasonable offers. I’m aware of how difficult clean 2nd Gen Cummins trucks are to find let alone any with the above modifications. Extensive receipts, paperwork, and build photos are available that can be discussed with serious buyers. Currently located in the Jacksonville, NC area (28540). Shipping the truck would be the buyer’s responsibility and expense. I’m willing to release the truck as soon as payment has cleared. I’ve personally driven this truck cross-country comfortably at 75 mph and averaging 17+ mpg, so driving the truck home is another viable option. I also have a new, uninstalled set of Infinite Performance 8x0.010 VCO injectors and Carli Pintop shocks (pending delivery) that can be included for the right price. Contact me with questions. Advertiser hemichallenger Date 07/19/2021 Price $25,000.00 Category Vehicles  
    2 points
  34. 2 points
  35. Yes, now that I've seen your setup I think that's right. Switch and relay are on their way, and I just ordered the connectors for the back of the bulbs. No idea what the "truck side" connector might be, but I'll just cut it off and use my own. Making my own harness will take 10 minutes. It's crazy how much time I've spent searching the internet for this answer and apparently we are now the first people on earth to have solved it.
    2 points
  36. -Check all your hoses -Check the intercooler boots -Fan hub bearing or the entire unit -Check water pump for play, or just replace Since its 2 bolts and you have the coolant drained. -Fan clutch looked over -Balancer/damper, look for what @dripley said, alignment between the pieces and make sure the rubber is still there. Technically, if the rubber is cracked it should be replaced. -Check your fan blades for cracks, your fan at full lock up is spinning faster than the engine itself and I think is capable of 10-11k CFM. That's a lot of stress to be putting on a cracked fan blade. -Replace the A/C drier as well, especial if you have the system open for any extended amount of time. -Check for the KDP/updated timing case, I think my truck might have been unlucky with the KDP before I got it. I have the new style case but I am missing my data card. -Be careful with the front main, it goes on dry, then turn the motor over a couple times by hand to wear in the Teflon before the oil gets to it. Otherwise it will leak. And if you can feel any catches/wear marks on in the crank snout, get a speedy sleeved version. Oh and DO NOT remove the installation cone until after you have tightened down the cover. Easiest way to destroy the seal that way. -Other than that, just look for leaks, check wear on things, stuff like that. -A cam isn't really needed unless you are competing or spooling a big turbo (like s465 as a single kind of big) . There are plenty of guys that are making a lot of power on the stock cam. -While everything is of and easy to get to, might as well adjust the steering box. -Vacuum pump is up to you, with 345k on it it wouldn't hurt. I have used the Gould's gear kit and I highly recommend it. Bit expensive but it it comes with tools, an instructional dvd and extras of seals commonly messed up on install just in case. -the timing cover is stamped sheet metal bolted to an aluminum case, there is a gasket for the cover but everyone recommends RTV because the sheet metal is usually warped slightly and wont seal very well with the gasket.
    2 points
  37. My cruise light is on the IC and green as well. I replaced my IC lights with white 200 degree LED's and it turned out a sweet Blue believe it! I will snap some pics tonight and post them up for you to see. I also did the light switch and the HVAC controls as well with the LED's. Got all the bulbs from SuperBriteLeds.com, did the exterior lighting as well from using @Mopar1973Man list he gave for them!
    2 points
  38. Wow. Learning something new. Kind of like some of the new cars I'm seeing with 0w-16 oil being used.
    2 points
  39. So the weekend found some time to putz with the latches and linkages more. I measured for some bushings to solidify things up at the joints and make things more reliable and am waiting for my buddy to get those back to me, but yah...I might be putting a few access holes in strategically to get these installed. Luckily the interior will be covered in a big removable panel. ALSO I got....an NOS hood ornament in perfect condition! I see zero pits and plan on just dropping it on with no repairs.
    2 points
  40. My new mechanic said all has went well with vb exchange. He said yesterday. I gave him a day he said he was sorry I said fine. I told him no rush like have been doing this for a couple months now but not with him. Will pick up in the am.Take it home 55 miles then jump in my wife’s new Lexus loaded with fishing gear pick up my 12 almost 13 year old Alaskan born raised and will never leave granddaughter to try to go catch her a big king salmon on the Kenai river 100 miles south of here. My buddy has a new jet sled and it will rain and we will have fun . That’s the cake. Catching her a sizable king will be the frosting on that cake. Then get home drive the truck around empty a fair bit to see if it has issues and then load the camper in the back and 4 wheelers and two sweet girls and off to the mountains Summer happens fast in Alaska. Winter is soon again and at 71 I might not have to many left. More later
    2 points
  41. VP44 Injection Pump Fuel Return Flow Test A bit of history – the first VP44 injection pump on my truck failed (code 0216) and was replaced under warranty along with the engine block-mounted lift pump which was also replaced under warranty with an in-tank lift pump in August of 2005 at 87,000 miles. The old block-mounted lift pump was still providing 12 psi at idle and 7 psi at wide open throttle when it was replaced. The new in-tank lift pump provided 6 psi at idle and 3 psi at wide open throttle. I ran that lift pump for 164,000 miles. In April of 2016 at 251,000 miles on the truck, I removed the in-tank lift pump and installed a used FASS DRP-02 frame mounted lift pump. The in-tank lift pump was still working fine – I just wanted the lift pump to be easily accessible if it failed on a road trip. The FASS lift pump provides 12 psi at idle and 6 psi at wide open throttle. Currently, there is approximately 106,000 miles logged on the used FASS DRP-02 lift pump. The current replaced VP44 has logged just under 270,000 miles. As many of you probably know by now, I am a firm believer that the only job for the lift pump is to flow enough fuel to provide a positive pressure at the inlet of the VP44 injection pump under any operating condition. And because I believe this to be true, I have never been concerned about lift pump fuel pressure being low – example: 3 psi at wide open throttle. By design I believe the OEM lift pump produces more flow than the VP44 injection pump and injectors will ever consume under any operating condition which means that there will always be a positive pressure at the inlet of the VP44 injection pump. It is also my understanding that when fuel enters the VP44 injection pump - that fuel flows directly into the inlet of the internal vane pump inside the VP44 injection pump. From this point forward it is the internal vane pump that determines the flow and the maximum operating pressure to provide fuel flow for charging the fill chamber for high pressure injection, fuel flow for hydraulic operation of the timing piston, and fuel flow over the 14 psi overflow valve that returns fuel back to fuel tank for cooling the injection pump. The tests. I have performed several fuel return flow tests from the VP44 fuel injection pump. The purpose for the tests is to show that the volume of fuel returning to the tank (from the VP44 and injectors) does not change whether the lift pump is operating or not operating. To demonstrate this I made one small modification (which will be a permanent modification on my truck) to the supply fuel line. I added a fuel line with a one-way check valve in parallel which bypasses the frame-mounted lift pump. The added fuel line and one-way check valve will allow for free flow of fuel around the lift pump should a lift pump failure occur. During normal lift pump operation the one-way check valve will remain closed. The photo below shows the fuel supply diagram for my truck. For the tests I used a one-gallon oil jug with volume markings at one-quart intervals. I used a helper and started the clock on the 1 quart mark on the jug and stopped the clock on the 3 quart mark on the jug. The total volume returned for each test was .5 gallons of fuel. My truck is a 2002 2500 with a NV5600 transmission. The fuel lines are stock diameter, the fuel filter is the OEM filter inside the filter housing mounted on the engine, and the lift pump is a used frame mounted FASS DRP-02 that probably flows somewhere around 65 GPH. I performed the tests as follows: Test #1: engine at idle, fuel transfer pump operating - .5 gallons pumped in 92 seconds Test #2: engine at idle, fuel transfer pump operating - .5 gallons pumped in 94 seconds Average fuel pumped is .5 gallons in 93 seconds = .3225 gpm rounded to .32 gpm or 19.35 gph Test #3: engine at idle, fuel transfer pump disabled - .5 gallons pumped in 93 seconds Test #4: engine at idle, fuel transfer pump disabled - .5 gallons pumped in 95 seconds Average fuel pumped is .5 gallons in 94 seconds = .3191 gpm rounded to .32 gpm or 19.35 gph Test #5: engine at 2000 rpm, fuel transfer pump disabled - .5 gallons pumped in 64 seconds Fuel pumped is .5 gallons in 64 seconds = .47 gpm or 28.1 gph The averaged test results from Test #1 and #2 (lift pump operating) clearly show that there is no significant volume change when compared to the averaged test results from Test #3 and #4 (lift pump disabled). My conclusion is that lift pump pressure is not relevant to fuel returning from the VP44 injection pump and injectors. The result of Test #5 clearly shows that return flow volume increases with engine rpm, even with lift pump not operating. I performed one other test. Since I am convinced that it is the internal vane pump that does all of the work, I disabled the lift pump and drove my truck to town and back – a 25 mile round trip. I accelerated and held 30 psi boost several times. I restarted the truck several times while running errands. The engine never stumbled and continued to deliver the power it always does. I am not diminishing the importance of the lift pump function, but I will now worry less should I have a lift pump failure while on a trip. I will just keep driving until I get to a convenient place to replace the pump. My overall conclusion is that requiring lift pump pressure to always be above 14 psi or the VP44 injection pump will be sacrificed is now a busted myth. There, I have said it. Of course, each person is entitled to draw his / her own conclusion. One last note…, I know that the VP44 on my truck can fail at any time, but it has already provided a long life, even operating under the parameters of RV275 hp injectors and a Smarty tuner with fuel duration set at 5. I know this will be hard to believe for some, but this VP44 has never seen any lift pump pressure higher than 12 psi, and that 12 psi is only at idle – most of the time it is operating at a far less pressure. The following photos show the volume of fuel returning to tank under specific conditions: - John
    2 points
  42. Another little secret we have learned here. If you mix 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil and diesel fuel basically 1 ounce of 2 cycle oil to a gallon of diesel it will keep the injectors cleaner than any injector cleaner will. The added lubricity will extend the life of the VP44 and the injectors. The oil is a natural cetane reducer and adds BTUs to the fuel. The 2 cycle oil will keep the injectors cleaner longer.
    2 points
  43. @dripley, I can't believe these guys talk to you like that. I wouldn't do that. I would think it would ruffle your feathers. - John
    2 points
  44. These pieces are designed to give a non-adjustable camber/caster front end like ours adjustable camber/caster. So yes they are eccentric and you will want to figure out exactly which way to put them back. This video should help you out! GL HTH
    2 points
  45. A friend of mine used to play bass in the band. I always get a kick out of it.
    2 points
  46. I guess you can the guinea pig on their newer stuff then. There is a difference in the 2 vs 4 wd. The late models anyway. IIRC the uppermand lower do not line with each other and thats part of the problem. Maybe someone else could explain it. I have just come accept over the past,20 years and dont give it much thought any more. The MOOG's in mine have outlasted the oe by 50k so far so I am happy with MOOG.
    2 points
  47. A torque wrench is needed when working on aluminum alloy engines. Over tightening will pull the threads out. There are 2 ways to find a vacuum leak at the intake manifold/gasket. With the engine running spray the intake manifold/gasket with carb cleaner. When the carb cleaner is sprayed on to the damaged area it is sucked in and will cause the engine to stumble. With the engine running using a 5/16-3/8 hose about 3' place one end of the hose in your ear and run the other end over the manifold. You will her a sucking sound when the hose goes over a damaged area. Using a hose like this can also be used to find a bad bearing in a water pump, alternator, etc.
    2 points
  48. Or a bigger hose clamp. @JAG1 can help.
    2 points
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