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      Mopar1973Man.Com will now start using two-factor authentication to protect users accounts. All staff, donors, and customers will be required to use the Google Authenticator which you can download for free. Just scan the QR barcode and the app will provide the lock code. If you attempt to guess the code it will lock you out of the site. So please don't guess at the code. This will only appear to users that are accessing mission critical data to the member or the site.   I also enable the question and answers. If anyone has other ideas for question please PM to me and I'll add them to the system as well. The Question and Answers work similar and you must answer the questions to gain access to a protected area.  

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  1. 8 likes
    My last thread had to do with a crappy end to crappy month. But today was different. I will let ya'll decide for yourselves. No whining about the dirt or the broken bezel, I already know.
  2. 8 likes
    Welp. After owning this truck for 3 years without clear coat, I've finally got it fixed. I couldn't be happier.
  3. 8 likes
    Quadzilla Custom Tuning How-To The Quadzilla Adrenaline allows for a significant amount of custom tuning to be done by the user to alter the way that the Quadzilla ADR commands fueling. This gives the Quadzilla a significant advantage over other tuners on the market. It is VERY important to understand that each truck is going to be a little different. Your truck will run as well as you tune it. We are more than willing to answer questions about how it works, but putting in the leg work is your responsiblity. If you follow the Guide posted in Section 3 you should have no trouble making a tune that works well for you. It is also VASTLY important to datalog while you are tuning. Compare smoke vs power to the data log to see where you need to add more fuel or pull more fuel. The Quadzilla V2 tuning is not magic, if you don't put time in to figure out what your truck likes the end result may be less than stellar. Index: Section 1: Custom Tuning V2 Section 3: Getting Started with V2 Tuning Section 4: Example Custom Tunes based upon Injector Size Section 1: Custom Tuning V2 ******* It is important to Note that it is not recommended to stack ANY tuners when using the V2 tuning**** V2 of the custom tuning is the next level of custom tuning for the Quadzilla Adrenaline and the VP44 powered Cummins Power 2nd Gen truck. You must have a V2 base tune loaded for these to work along with selecting the V2 vehicle out of the Iquad Vehicle Selection list. One will not work without the other. All the above custom tuning is the same other than power levels and Can TPS Min and Max so I will not go over those again. V2 has everything that V1 has, but more. Can TPS min and Max are no longer used in V2 tuning as the user can tune CANbus fueling to their own liking above stock, below stock, or at stock levels. This makes TPS min and max no longer needed. ************************************************************************************************************************************************* Change to the Power Levels from V1 Tunes Quadzilla has introduced a new power level called power reduction as the new lvl 1. As a result, all V1 tuning levels are moved up one, Lvl 3, Canbus, has also been modified to allow for on the fly user based custom tuning. Lvls are now: lvl 0: Stock with boost fooling lvl 1: Power reduction for reducing power under stock lvl 2: Timing / MPG mode with Custom user Canbus for 0-10psi with a max of %100. Over 10 psi is possible, but only using the 10psi scaling % in the custom tuning with a max fueling of %100 of oem. lvl 3: Canbus Fueling + Timing including CANbus fueling scaling from 0 - 28 psi lvl 4 +: Wiretap + Canbus + Timing. The more levels you have the smaller the jump in power per level. If you have 7 levels, then lvl 4 will be %33 wiretap lvl 5 will be 66% wiretap and lvl 6 will be full wiretap. Because of the additional lvl we have increased the Max Level to 6 rather than 5 and the upper limit to 15 rather than 14. Lvl 1 now gives you a default of %50 power under the OEM tuning. This will allow pretty much ANY truck with ANY fueling mods to pass emissions that are based on smoke output, without making the truck dangerous on the road. Using Custom tuning you can set the OEM fueling to anything between 0 and 100% of stock. With 100 hp injectors setting this to %80 gives good power without smoke. These custom tuning settings can be switched on the fly without having to download a new tune. You can store up to 10 custom tunes on your device. Here you can see I have 3 tunes, Daily, Race, and Tow. Here is the screen shots for the new tuning. Max Power Levels Power Levels : You can set the minimize power levels to 5 or max to 14. This will give you more or less wiretap levels, Note that no additional power is made by setting max levels higher. Rather setting Max Power Levels higher give you more "steps" of wiretap fueling until the max is reached. IE: total power lvls = 5 gives you 2 wiretap levels (Remember to always could lvl 0 in your total lvls), so lvl 3 will give you %50 of wiretap stretch and lvl 4 will give you %100 of wiretap stretch whereas setting your max lvls to 14 will give you 12 steps of wiretap fueling lvl 3 would be 1/12th of wiretap stretch lvl 9 would be 7/12th of wiretap stretch and lvl 14 would be 12/12th of wiretap stretch Power Reduction: %0-100 gives the user the ability to fine tune how much power they want the truck to have based upon OEM fueling. Setting Power reduction to 0 will make the truck only idle Setting Power Reduction to %100 will make the truck run like stock. Depending on your fueling mods the truck is drivable from %40 to %100. A truck at 7000' altitude with 7 x .009 injectors will not smoke with this setting set to %75, the truck is still VERY street friendly. The emissions people will not question why the truck made only 100 hp as you can set the fueling reduction % based on your injectors to match stock power. Remember this setting is in the custom tuning menu so you can use multiple custom tunes for valet mode (%50) or Girlfriend / wife mode (%65) or emissions mode (%75) or anti-theft mode ( %0) **************************************************************************************************************************************************************** RPM LIMIT We have added a user defined RPM limit variable. you can set this between 3200 and 3700 rpm. Keep in Mind that max RPM will depend on the truck configuration. RPM Limit will put a limit on wiretap fueling. Canbus fueling is configured based on if the base tune is HardFuel or StandardFuel. Going over 3500 rpm should be done at your own risk. Weak pumps will likely not like being forced to rev beyond 3500. Hardfuel will try and extend canbus to 3500RPM StandardFuel will let fueling fall off at 3200RPM. **************************************************************************************************************************************************************** Timing Related Custom Tuning Max Load Timing Offset: 0*-3* setting that allows up to 3* of RPM timing to be based on load. This allows you to tune timing based on a bilinear calculation based on load and rpm. This setting does not increase your max timing, rather it puts weight on Load. IE: if your rpm was 2000 and your max timing for 2000 was set at 19*, your load timing was set at 3* and you are at %50 throttle, then you would get ~%50 of load timing ( 1.5*) which would put your current timing at 17.5* ( 19* max - 1.5* = 17.5*). Where as if you were at %100 throttle then you would get the full 19* of timing at 2000 RPM. Same example %30 load, would give you %30 of 3* = .9* so at 2000 rpm you would have 17.9* of timing if load was at 30% this new timing tuning will give you a significant amount of control over timing compared to other tuners on the market. Low PSI Timing Reduct We have added a new tuning variable to allow for the user to set a max amount of time to pull when TPS is high and boost is low. Pulling timing will assist in spooling the turbo. The range for this reduction is 0-5* Timing Reduction Scaling 0-%100 This allows you to set how much timing gets pulled from the Low PSI timing reduct number set. You may want more timing down low, but want to pull timing up top. Scaling function will limit max timing but allow for the map to calculate off of the max timing until that point is reached. IE: if timing reduction is set to 5* and scaling is set at %50 you will get a max reduction of 2.5* ( 5 * .50 = 2.5) but if the map calls from %50 you will get 2.5* at %50. It will effectively allow for you to reach your max sooner. the graph below so you how it works. Cruise Timing Adv This setting allows you to set a max amount of timing to advance Load & MPH are stable above ~40 mph and below 81 mph and 1400-2400 rpm.. The range is 0-8* advance from 17* and tries to reach that timing at ~2400 rpm. . so if you want 20* cruise timing at 65 mph you would set this to 4 or 5*. Setting Cruise timing adv to 0* will disable cruise timing anything greater than 0* will enable Cruise IE: 0.1* will make the Quad try to reach 17.1* of timing. This should scale up timing to match your revs and give you the best possible mpg possible from 55-80 mph. Most setups should run a value of between .5 - 2.5 * of timing advance. Play around with this setting to see where EGT's are reduced at cruise state. Stock injector to ~7 x .009 - Generally speaking 17.5*-18.5* of timing is optimal for best MPG while at cruise at 55-65 mph. - Generally speaking 18.5*-19.5* of timing is optimal for best MPG while at cruise at 70-80 mph. - Tow tunes should use a cruise timing advance of 0 unless studs are in place. Cruise Timing Boost PSI Limit This setting will set a limit for how high boost can get before cruise timing will disable. You want to set this above your normal cruise PSI and below what you would see when pulling a grade. IE if you cruise at 65 mph and your boost reads ~5 psi, then set this setting to ~8 psi, so when you go to pass cruise timing will kick out until psi drops again. This is a failsafe to ensure that cruise timing does not apply when under load. Setting this to 0 psi will disable this failsafe. RPM Timing Max Users are given 5 timing settings to set max timing at, It is VERY helpful to data log OEM timing to get a grasp of what your truck is "safe" to run. Leave the Quadzilla on Lvl 0 and do a run with various driving styles. Make note of timing at 1500 rpm, 2k, 2.5k etc. 1500 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~13*-16* ** Keep in mind that OEM timing is referenced for sub 1500 rpm timing. You might see timing above or below your 1500 setting at light throttle. 2000 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~17*-20* 2500 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~20*-23* 3000 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~24*-25* Max: Typically users will want to keep this between ~25*-26* ** please note that setting timing higher than suggested may lead to headgasket issues, please ensure you have supporting mods, IE studs, before venturing outside of the recommendation. ************************************************************************************************************************************************ Boost Related Custom Tuning CanBus Custom Tuning In the Custom tuning menu, there are an addition 25 new Custom tuning variables that allow you to set a % of power level above or below stock. The range for this is %50 - %150 You will need to configure this for each psi leading up to 30psi. From 0-16psi is a % per psi above 16 psi is % for 2 psi. It is possible to tune any truck with any injectors to be very clean. Typically ~%70 is the lowest usable % and %130 is the highest, but this will differ from truck to truck. Truck with near stock sized injectors will typically set this number above 100% increasing as the PSI increases, trucks with large injectors can set low PSI scaling under %100 to clean up off boost fueling. You will notice some increase in lag due to this, but you are able to make fine adjustments to get power where you want it throughout the power range. THIS WILL TAKE SOME FINE TUNING ON YOUR PART FOR BEST RESULTS. MAKE %1 CHANGES ON EACH PSI LEVEL. IN MOST CASES YOU SHOULD NOT MAKE A JUMP OF MORE THAN %5 GOING FROM PSI TO PSI. THE HIGHER THE JUMP IN % THE MORE AGGRESSIVE THE QUADZILLA WILL RAMP UP FUELING. If you want V1 like tuning and you have stockish injectors add 110 to the PSI level you are editing. IE: 0 psi = 110% 5psi = 115% 10psi= 120% _________________________________________ Wiretap Tuning Max Pump Stretch: sets the upper limit for Wiretap Fueling time. Typically 2200 is the max on the aggressive tunes. This is what allows for the calculation of how much pump fueling to use. Remember that you are setting the max amount of fueling. This fueling time is altered by many different inputs such as, but not limited to, boost, rpm, APPS, etc on v1 base tunes lvls 3 - max divide the max stretch by the span IE: if you have 10 levels total 4-10 are wiretap so you have 7 lvls of wiretap on lvl 4 you get 1/7th of additional wiretap fueling, lvl 5 you get 2/7th and so forth. Setting Max Pump Stretch higher may reduce total power while increasing Torque under the curve. If you want upper-end power you would not want to set this to the max. If you want low-end torque you would set this higher. Typically people find that 1600-2000 is the happy spot depending on your injector size and driving style. Smoke output will be increased by setting Stretch higher. TPS scaling functions: By watching TPS / APPS input from the driver the Quadzilla can adjust the fueling curves for Wiretap fueling. This is helpful to tune the Quadzilla to your driving style and can help cut down on low end smoke. TPS Pump Max: This allows for you to set the upper limit for TPS input for wiretap fueling. Wiretap fueling does not stop at this point, rather it peaks at this point. Using the max and min settings you can move the wiretap fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range. TPS Pump Min: This allows for you to set the lower limit for TPS input for wiretap fueling. Wiretap fueling will not start until this point is reached. Using the max and min settings you can move the wiretap fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range. Effectively by settings the max and min you are compressing %100 of the fueling between the max's and Mins. IE: maxs at 75 and min's at 25, or cutting the tps range to %50. You will effective double the fueling ramp up once %25 tps is reach until %75 TPS is reached. At %75 TPS input fueling will max out until %100. No additional Power is made, rather the unit can tailor itself to your driving style. This can be used to help low-end spool or help with City driving to keep power down. If you set the min above your typical DD TPS input you can disable fueling when you don't need it. Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0-25% This Tuning variable is to set a low limit % for wiretap. Caution should be used when setting this setting in your custom tune. If you set it at %25 you will get no less than %25 of wiretap at any point in the map. Setting this high will make the truck smoke, but can be useful when creating a Race tune. Normal DD tunes should likely use %5 or less. Smoke free tunes should use %0. Pump Low boost Scale PSI: 0-25 psi This set the low limit for the wiretap fueling map. If you set this at 0 your wiretap will begin at 0psi. If you set this at 15 your wiretap map will start at 15 psi. Set this variable to whatever PSI you want Wiretap to begin fueling. ** Please note that Boost Scaling V1 tuning cannot set lower than this setting., The ADR will add 5 psi to the v1 Boost Scaling if you set them the same. Boost Scaling: 20-40 psi Allows you to set the point at which fueling is maximized based upon boost levels. Setting this to 20 will give you fuel fueling at 20psi, assuming tps min / and maxes are met. Boost scaling is calculated along with TPS scaling so in order to have %100 of fueling both need to be met. **************************************************************************************************************************************************************** These new custom tuning features are in addition to the V1 custom tuning, so if your TPS is set high that you are currently at you will not have fueling. All custom tuning mins must be reached for any fueling to happen. This Video covers the above tuning Section 2: Getting Started with Quadzilla Adrenaline V2 Custom Tuning ***************************************************************************************************************************************************************** When you are starting to use V2 Tune on your truck you should follow these steps. 1. Find your starting % 2. Set your base map 3. Fine tune your base map 4. Set your Wiretap start point 5. Set your Wiretap Fueling % This tuning should not be done on busy roads or in any place that risk of crashing or hurting others. A back country road is recommended. Save your tune after EVERY change. Don't forget you are able to create more than one custom tune so you can setup a race tune or tow tune or DD tune. Tune your custom tunes with something in mind. Don't try to make the truck do everything on one tune. Step 1. If you have stock injectors you can set this to 100% or above so you can skip this step and move to Step 2. Use LVL1 and the Power reduction % to find a good point for the CANbus fueling %. For 50 hp injectors start at %95 and move up or down by %1 depending on if you get smoke when you snap throttle from 0-%50 while in gear. Find a reasonable % for smoke output vs low-end power. Remember this is to handle off idle power. Good starting points per injector size ***use only as a guide you will need to go through some trial and error. 50 hp injectors %95 100 hp injectors %90 150 hp injectors %85 200 hp injectors %80 250 hp injectors %75 300 hp injectors %70 Once you have found a good starting point Set your 0 PSI % to this power reduction % and set your Power Reduction scale to a % that you want to allow for a valet mode or antitheft or emissions or whatever for reduced power. Step 2. Set Quad to Power LVL3 Once you have a good starting point defined for 0 psi scaling increase every % by 1 as you move up in psi. As you hit 10-15 psi you can move up by 2 or 3 % per psi until you max out at ~%130. You will notice that the Canbus HP limit is somewhere around %130 depending on the truck and the mods. This should give you a good base fueling map to fine tune your truck by. Step 3. Once you have your base map do some 0-%50 APPS take off's on LVL3 only. Pay attention to Boost numbers and smoke output. a video camera is very helpful. ENSURE YOU ARE NOT AROUND OTHER DRIVERS OR PEOPLE WHEN DOING THIS!!!!!! You may notice puffs of smoke as PSI climbs, reduce the % at that psi point by 1 if smoke is too much. If the truck feels laggy at a given PSI increase by %1 until your truck feels good. Keep in mind that smoke from the tailpipe may cause flooding of the turbo. A truck will respond best when there is a slight haze under high throttle input. Don't be afraid to use high TPS input to get the truck moving. That is what the throttle pedal is for! Tweak your 0-30 settings until you are happy with how the truck drives on LVL3 Step 4. Once you have your CANbus tuning done move to wiretap tuning. Wiretap fueling will increase power significantly when it is used. Depending on your wants you can set low limit fueling for wiretap. This will allow for smoke reduction when wiretap comes on. Set your low limit for a PSI that is above your normal DD / cruising PSI. IE if you drive to work every day and don't normally hit 10 psi set your low limit above 10 psi. If you want wiretap fueling when you typically drive set the low limit below that. I would not recommend setting this below 5psi as smoke control is much harder. Remember low limit allows for wiretap scaling below that point. TPS min also comes into play so set your pump TPS min at a point that makes sense for your driving style / needs Step 5. Timing tuning is a little tricky and should not be taken lightly. I suggest that you keep your timing tuning configured as 1500 max: 14* 2000 max: 18* 2500 max: 22* 3000 max: 25* max: 26* UNLESS you have time to do a good amount of data logging and figure out what is best for your truck. Keep in mind that aggressive timing can cause issues. The above should be considered very safe on pretty much any truck. OEM timing will hit 26* in stock form. What you will find however is under the curve power will be improved by adjusting these settings. Step 6. Once you have set your low limit for Wiretap fueling set your scaling. This scaling will set how much wiretap fueling is added before the low limit is reached. If you want no wiretap before the low limit set this to %0, if you want half set this to %50 and so forth. Typically I leave this between %15 and %25 depending on how aggressive you want the truck to feel when DD'ing the truck. Setting this % higher will increase smoke output off idle. ******************************************************************************************************************************************************** Section 3: Custom Tunes based upon Injector size Visit this thread for a list of Users custom tunes. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12002-quadzilla-v2-custom-tunes/ Here are videos showing before and after the V2 tuning
  4. 7 likes
    Alright guys so the truck is officially done. Going to pick it up tomorrow. Jon was awesome enough to show me the process the little time I was there. Here's so pics I snagged. Cleaning up the reusable stuff All torn down The works done on the valve body Goerend flexplate Goerend 15ss About to head back under the truck I'll let you guys know how the 350mile drive home goes compared to the way out here, I'm pretty excited to say the least!
  5. 6 likes
    Just to add to that a little, I have had my problems too. Big ticket, ECM, tranny,VP, in tank fuel pump(one of my favorites). Those and along the way normal wear tear things like, clutches(one premature), wheel bearing, ball joints and other front items. That list can go on. I dont think I have spent but $2k a year on it since I paid it off in early 07 to keep it mechanically sound. That does not mean when I take off for my next job something might fail, things wear out. Just something you have to deal with. Be nice to have another new truck but what I want and what I feel I can afford are two different things. Another little thing to add for those that have children. Be they young or be they old they still say the darndest things. The other day I was talking with my youngest son, 40 as I remember. I told when my time came he was going to drive me to the grave in this truck. His response was, " It better be running good or I am going to tell them to dig a bigger hole". You gotta feel the love with that one. Maybe I will get lucky and have one of my grandsons feel a little different on that. One of his sons I hope!! Him and I did share a mighty big laugh on his statement though, so all is good.
  6. 6 likes
    I've got lucky and found a wonderful woman. We've met about a month ago on a dating site. What is so fascinating about this get together is that I did something most don't ever do on a dating site. I listed all the thing I wanted and didn't want in a woman. Which filtered off a lot of people because of my requirements. Then comes Donna that fits my requirements completely. She had to find out more about me. The first date was to meet in Riggins, Idaho and she enjoyed the first meet. She asked me to come down to her place and have dinner with her. Then next weekend we did a camp out on the Salmon River which we both enjoyed the time together. Then this weekend we did a repeat of the same camp out because of the first one was so fun. So I can't hide the fact of Donna is becoming part of my life. So I had to share... Donna also registered up here as well as @LiDaR . She is a little green about web forums I've got to teach her a few things yet.
  7. 6 likes
    I've got to refresh this thread and say that @Chris O. CCD network tool did the trick. Chris. O's CCD network tool was absolutely correct. The passenger side tone wheel was bad and created all the issues. Now both left and right wheel bearings have been replaced and all ABS and BRAKE light are now turned off and ABS is functioning properly. This is a first in like 2 years now. I'm going to have to create a killer write up on ABS diagnostics and how to test for these weird things with and without a DRBIII tool. ABS PROBLEM RESOLVED!!!
  8. 5 likes
    On day 1 I wasn't afraid to take off take off any where with the truck. Trailer on her back or empty. Now I am am here on day 5,688, or thereabouts, I am still not afraid of doing it.
  9. 5 likes
  10. 5 likes
    Why are you wanting to change? The only manifolds I recommend are Stainless Diesels. Hard pill to swallow for most however. If you are looking for a bump in performance, do not waste your time.
  11. 5 likes
    Oh yeah it was a better spot than most to have it happen. Right at the stop light was a double lane so I was in the right lane. I tell ya though people in this world are terrible. Had the 4 ways on and a guy was behind me honked and I waved him around he pulled up on the driver side gave me the bird and drove off. I was like uhhh ok just smiled and waved back at him. Mean while thinking to my self thanks for giving a pinch of sht guy. I always stop to try and help stranded people was just the way I was brought up. Not too many people do that anymore. Which is sad, but it'll all work out in the end for those who look out for their fellow man/women.
  12. 5 likes
    Here's a sneak peak. Just a few more things left to assemble and it's done!!!! whooo-hooo!
  13. 4 likes
    Yes, parts, even at my costs, are a significant chunk on these builds! Not everyone needs a billet input shaft, so I developed the "Stage 2" package (and its associated valve body calibrations) years ago to utilize the original input shaft, but still have the benefit of a triple disc converter. Billet shafts are never a bad plan, but not everyone has the $$$ for one, and if it's not necessary in a particular application, I don't make you buy one. But, then again, there are applications that simply necessitate a billet shaft, whether a guy has the money or not...! LOL
  14. 4 likes
    Good news is I was able to tap off the ford vss signal and tie it into the wire that use to go to the dodge abs unit and now I have vehicle speed on the iQuad and it's spot on with the ford speedo and my gps unit. Now lockup and gear info is working. Also my indicators seem to be correlating with shifts and even lockup now that I switched the ground feed on the brake pedal switch. Happy days!
  15. 4 likes
    Arod, I had a similar issue. It will only leak when the pressure gets above a certain PSI. In the first picture, the pressure is only 10psi. As I pumped up the system towards 15 psi, you can see the hose connection at the housing bubbling. Find/borrow/buy/rent a radiator system presser tester.... they are handy for jobs like this. Good Luck, Hag
  16. 4 likes
    Update; after running return line in a bucket which revealed no restriction and doing some tests on the electrical (found minor voltage drop from bad alternator/ engine grounds) I went ahead and changed primary and factory filters. I found amazing amount of crud in primary with the factory filter discolored after just two weeks of short runs and about 700 miles. Started truck this morning and gauge is steady like it should. Goes to show it's best to drop the tank when upgrading entire fuel system. It will afford the opportunity to clean out and rinse the tank. As it is I will need to change the filters again hear soon and it's nice to know what the gauge will be doing when needing a change. Previous owner must have been buying stagnant fuel. Nice to have a primary filter to help polish the fuel as it circulates with return fuel. Also that return line going into the fuel basket causes only the cleaner fuel up the draw straw leaving more stagnant unfiltered fuel outside the basket nearer the ends of the tank. Better to run the return fuel elsewhere, down the fill neck perhaps to help filter the fuel in general and not let the hotter newly filtered fuel return so quickly
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  18. 4 likes
    ccd bus means the overhead cannot read any incoming CCd message. If hte cluster doesn't show it then it is likely a wiring issue in the overhead.
  19. 4 likes
    Dodge/Cummins ECU (1998.5 - 2002 ISB) ECU Hardware There are 2 computers on the Ram. One on the passenger side firewall behind the air cleaner assembly (the Powertrain Control Module, or PCM), and the ECU, which is located on the left side of the engine, mounted directly on the engine block. The ECU is connected with a single 50-pin connector. The ECU itself is a sealed unit, with a single air vent device. It is constructed of an aluminum 'frame', or center section, that has the mounting tabs to fasten it to the engine, and a sheet aluminum 'cover', that isn't really a cover at all - the flexible plastic 'circuit board' is adhered directly to the inside of this 'cover', on both sides. There is gray silicone sealer between the 'cover' and the 'frame'. To open the ECU, one must remove the screws, and carefully pry the cover open. You must be sure to keep the cover straight and don't bend it, as the flexible circuit board is adhered directly to the inside of it. The side of the ECU with the electrical connector seems to contain power supply and other power-switching components (driver transistors, etc). I do not know if there are any ICs on this side, because I did not open mine up on that side (and at this point, I do not really want to). The other side contains the 'computer' components (processor, memory, etc) as shown below: Most of the ICs inside are standard components. There are several unidentified components: 8L12A: 8-pin IC. Possibly 12V voltage regulator for flash programming? Phillips IC, marked '4651148 005633-- Fhr011B'. Maybe analog MUX for ADC inputs? Atmel IC, marled 'ENCORE 51R42722U02 82002253-001 A9D0013 9951'. I have no idea what this is for, it looks like an ASIC. 8-pin IC marked '74690 XAVS' 8-pin IC marked '3029009 1951130'. Near the filter choke. CAN bus driver? The ECU only uses 256KB of flash, even if the installed chip is larger. The original ECU I opened had a 512KB chip (28F400). I later obtained another ECU, and discovered it had a 256KB chip (28F200). These flash chips are organized into a 16KB boot block, 2 8KB parameter blocks, and the remaining blocks are regular data blocks. The parameter blocks can sustain many more read/write cycles than the other blocks on the chip. There is 64k of RAM available, in the 2 32Kx8 SRAM chips. The memory is organized as follows: 0x000000 - 0x3FFFFF: Flash. The first 16k (0x000000 - 0x004000) is the 'boot' part of the flash chip. 0x800000 - 0x80FFFF: RAM 0xFFD000 - 0xFFD7FF: Some unknown peripheral device. Perhaps the Atmel chip? 0xFFD800 - 0xFFDFFF: Intel CAN Controller 0xFFE000 - 0xFFEFFF: TPURAM (Refer to the MC68336 manual) 0xFFF000 - 0xFFFFFF: MC68336 internal functions/integrated peripherals Software Using a BDM interface cable and driver, I wrote a program that would dump the contents of the flash chip to a file for inspection. This was difficult because every so often during the data transfer, an error would occur. I solved this problem by only reading 2KB at a time. I later found out that this read error was occurring because of a 'watchdog timer' in the ECU hardware was attempting to assert RESET while I was reading the data (because when reading through the BDM port, the CPU is stopped). Once I modified the program to do 2KB reads I was able to get a successful read of the data. I used GNU objdump to create an assembler listing of the file. I have spent many hours 'picking apart' the program to figure out what each section is for, how the peripherals of the MC68336 are configured/used, etc. There is a compressed program in the lower 16K (boot block) that gets decompressed into RAM at startup, only if certain conditions are met. This is probably a small program that is only good for reading the CAN bus, so that the flash can be reprogrammed. I have not spent much time examining this program. The VIN of the vehicle is embedded in data around 0x4000, and again around 0x8000. There is also a 'signature' around 0x8000 that is checked at startup, and if it is valid, an address is read from location 0x800a and execution of the 'main' startup code continues at that address. There is a considerable amount of data that gets moved from the end of the flash data into RAM at startup. In this example, the data begins at 0x3829e and ends at 0x3fee7. That is approx. 32KB of data. At this time, I have only been able to identify the startup code, where the various components are initialized and addresses are set up, and parts of the program that read/write the CAN messages. The following things need to be done: Identify the CAN messages themselves, the message contents, and what they mean. Identify which inputs connect to where (temp sensors, MAP, APPS, etc). Identify the other outputs and what ports they are located (Wait to start lamp, VP44 relay, fuel pump relay, intake heaters, etc.) Determine how the flash can be programmed by methods other than desoldering the chip from the board Identify the remaining program sections, and their assocaited data (the 'maps') It would probably be useful to build a CAN interface for my PC, and 'watch' the data on the CAN bus while the engine is in operation. This might yield some information that can be used to identify more of the program. Other information It appears that the ECU itself was designed (and possibly manufactured) by Motorola. The ECU software, is unknown. There is no copyright message or any other identifying information in the dump of the flash memory, except the VIN number and the string '091197'. I do not know what language the program was originally written in, probably C, I really don't think something that large would be written in assembly language. Why? Because it is my truck, my ECU, my flash memory chip, etc. and I have a right to know how it works. And I also have the right to do what I want with it, whether that be drive it, or take the ECU out, sprinkle cheddar cheese on it and bake it in the oven, etc. I think people should be able to understand, and repair if necessary, anything that they own, whether it be a computer, a car, a dishwasher, or a bike.
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    Thanks, guys, for the kind words! I don't get a chance to get on here much anymore, but I thought I'd drop in and say "Hi"... Matt, it was great having you here, and I enjoyed meeting you and your family! It was a pleasure to build your transmission. I truly wish you could have spent more time in the shop with me, and seen a little bit more of the process. But, when you have a little guy to think of, that's more important. To answer a couple of questions that were asked: I do not drill any holes in the input shaft itself (you'd be hard-pressed to drill through it anyway...), but there is a modification to the hub that is made in order to cool the direct clutch, which tends to run pretty hot. As far as package pricing goes, there are quite a few variables that can swing prices one way or another, but on average, the "Stage 2" will run in the $3500 range (built, installed, with billet triple disc converter). The "Stage 3" will run in the $4500 range (again...built, installed, with triple disc converter). Matt chose to go with a Goerend 15SS converter and a Goerend flexplate (both excellent choices!), which added a little to the cost, plus some freight costs as well. Yes, I recommend monitoring the temperature of the fluid in the pan, regardless of the pan's size or depth.
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    What brought me here is the LACK of belligerant manners and belittling response that seems so common on the other sites.
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    Back in 09 when my ECM went I turned to forums for some info to help me figure out what was wrong. CF mainly. The 2 favorite answers I got was "clean your grounds" or "search". Searches ended up with nothing or so many threads i could not read them all, much less tell what was good or bad info. No body much wanted to talk about it. In fairness I have since seen how hard it can be to diagnose a failed ECM and good advice is still a little hard to come by. That is when I found this site and people willing to talk to me and help thru some issues. I never agreed with the " just search " answer. You can get overloaded with info. We are still seeing people buying there first diesel pick up and they are second gens. I never minded helping some one with a problem thats been beat to death because I remember all the help i got when I went thru the same thing.They are just learning like we all once did. Just my way of paying it forward. Let em come is what i think. They are welcome.
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    As you seen in @Haggar post he was using worm gear clamps and most likely over tighten and deformed the hose. This way his leak showed up. I'm still using the OEM spring clamps. If and when the day come I do switch to worm gear clamps you have to make sure not to over tighten the clamp and not to deform the hose. As for the pressure tester make sure to do the testing on cold engine then the coolant leak will be visible. Like on my 1996 Dodge I could smell the coolant, see I was losing coolant but never make a puddle. On a cold engine pump up the system to 16 PSI and leave it stand. After a few minutes it was dripping on the floor and leaving a wet trail all the way back to the source of the leak. In my case the intake manifold gasket was shot and the coolant was leaking down the front of the block and drying up before it hit the floor. That slow of a leak.
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    (Just being a smart aleck) Be careful with those Idaho women. Meet my Idaho women when stationed near your old home when stationed at Camp Pendleton, CA. She had two years at University of Idaho, back then women mostly choose “home economics”. Her schooling still comes in handy today. Coming up on 44 years of married life. Never had a fight, well actually stated better, we haven’t killed each other yet:) Best of luck to you both.
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    Not a concern? I guess I don't have any expectation that the ECM is going to last forever. Just like you lost your ABS module before catching a failing alternator, seems to me that the same could happen with the ECM. It is a man-made electronic component and eventually it will fail. I understand that there are things that can speed that failure up and we can do things to "prevent", but nothing last forever.
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    @jlbayes happen to be one of our HP/TQ gurus here. He's worth listening too.
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    This is a 2 hour hike from where IBM and me go camping in the valley below. Not fair though cause he does all the cooking, campfires and gives me free fishing guide services.
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    There's a boss somewhere in control ... who says you reap what you sow.... so sounds like this guy with the bird will get wood peckered right where it counts.
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    WE NEED FANCINESS!!!! If that means burning the truck to the ground, then it was worth it! Lol Seriously, if you really want it, the right battery disconnect switch will do fine. The couple dozers over here all have a battery disconnect switch that all the juice goes through, that includes the starter. Another option is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP90250-250-AMP-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00TPKZV82 Even doubles as a circuit breaker.
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    YES - it should be perfectly dry inside there. Time for a rebuild! If you've got large and small snap ring pliers they are super easy to rebuild. A genuine rebuild kit is $60 or so from DAP.
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    Couple of pics from my shop at the mine doing a scheduled major rebuild on our Hitachi 2500 mass excavator. Doing an engine swap here are pics of the Cummins factory reman engine sitting in the module. Engine is a V16 QSKTA 50 1500 horsepower
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    I would like to say... My ABS light and BRAKE light are now off. The ABS issue is now resolved. Again I've got to send out a Thank You to @Chris O. for the Cummins CCD tool he produced. Without this tool I would have never found the issue for a very long time. Nice to see the dash lights out for the first time.
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    You gotta remember that NOTHING in the read or send section of the code has been changed. The communication framework is the same as a decade ago. The Quadzilla still speaks EXACTLY the same j1939 protocol that it did before V2. The Quadzilla IS NOT doing stuff that hasn't been done before. Still keeping canbus fueling in the 0-4095 range, still keeping wiretap between 0- 2200 us, still keeping timing in the 0-30* range. I cannot stress this enough, there is absolutely nothing different going on from the point of the ECM, or VP44. The Only changes for V2 are in the calculation of how much fuel / timing to use at a given point. The min's and maxes are unchanged. Rather than the Quadzilla looking into a predefined map for a fueling % it looks at the user defined variable to see what % to use. like I said before the Old Quadzilla tunes are much more aggresive when it comes to timing, The V2 tunes actually ask for significantly less timing than before. Compare the Datalogs I posted in the Smarty thread to the ones I've posted in the V2 thread, nothing different. It is VERY easily blame the tuner, I understand that. Remember I've been running the V2 the longest here, I've prob flashed my box ~500 times at this point. I've run code that was %100 backwards, IE asking for 3* timing at 3500 rpm. 4095 at 500 rpm etc.
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    BASIC AIR CONDITION REPAIR 2000 RAM 2500 DIESEL This is a 134A Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube system which consists of a compressor, condenser, high pressure switch, orifice tube, evaporator and accumulator with low pressure switch. The compressor (a Sanden SD7H15) does two things, it moves the refrigerant through the system and it changes the refrigerant from a low pressure low temperature gas to a high pressure high temperature gas. Only refrigerant in its gas state can be compressed. There can be a catastrophic failure to the compressor if liquid refrigerant reaches it. After the refrigerant becomes a high pressure gas it passes by the high pressure cut off switch which is located on the high pressure hose between the compressor and the condenser. This switch is used to turn the compressor off in the event of an overcharging, bad fan clutch engine overheating or blockage in the system, IE: blocked filter screen at orifice tube. The high pressure switch opens between 450-490psi and closes between 270-330psi. If the system was to over pressurize there could be A/C clutch slippage, catastrophic failure of a high pressure hose or compressor. The condenser, located in front of the inter-cooler, does just that, it condenses the refrigerant from a gas to a liquid. Let's say it enters the condenser as a hot compressed gas of 120°F on a 78°F day. As the cooler 78°F air moves over the fins of the condenser some of that heat energy is absorbed by the air, heat always goes to cold. The hot gas cools enough to change states to a liquid and it leaves the condenser at 100°F. When there is a change of states there is a lot of heat energy either absorbed or given up. In the condenser that heat energy is given up to the air. The refrigerant, now a very warm pressurized liquid, flows to the orifice tube. The orifice tube is located in an AC pipe that runs along the right upper inside fender and behind the right side battery, between the condenser and the evaporator. The orifice tube is the dividing line between high pressure warm liquid and low pressure cold liquid refrigerant. There are no moving parts in the orifice tube. It has a screen for filtering, a fixed opening for refrigerant metering and a brass tube that acts as a diffuser to atomize the low pressure liquid. This screen is the only filter in the system and can become clogged with debris over time and should be replaced any time the AC system is opened for repair. The low pressure cold liquid now enters the evaporator which acts in just the opposite way of the condenser. The temperature of the evaporator is controlled by the low pressure switch and must not go below 33°F or any moisture in the system will freeze in the evaporator and cause a blockage. Warm air blowing over the fins of the evaporator transfers its' heat energy to the cold liquid, heat always goes to cold, and cooler air exits the evaporator. The evaporator also reduces the humidity and helps filter the air in the cabin by condensation on the outside of the evaporator. As the cold liquid refrigerant absorbs the heat it changes states again and boils from a liquid back to a gas. The refrigerant now, which is mostly a gas with some liquid, enters the accumulator. The accumulator acts as a storage container, a liquid/vapor separator, a lubricating/cooling point for the compressor and moisture control. When the system is properly charged it is filled with 30-40% liquid refrigerant mixed with oil in the bottom and the rest is vapor. Inside the accumulator along with a desiccant bag for moisture control is a discharge tube in the shape of a U. The vapor enters one end of the accumulator and exits the other end via hose/pipe which is connected to the low side port of the compressor. At the bottom of the U is a small hole covered by a screen filter. That hole acts as a venture where oil and small droplets of refrigerant are drawn up. The oil is needed to lubricate and the refrigerant is used to cool the compressor. If the system is under charged the refrigerant will only be a low pressure gas by the time it exits the evaporator and will not carry any oil to the accumulator. The oil will collect at the bottom of the evaporator. When this condition occurs the compressor will fail prematurely due to the lack of lubrication and cooling. If the system is overcharged there is a chance that the accumulator will become flooded with liquid refrigerant. This liquid can make its way to the compressor and catastrophic failure is most likely. The low pressure switch is located on top of the accumulator. The temperature of the refrigerant in the evaporator is kept between 35°-45°F by opening the low pressure switch at 25psi and closing it at 45psi. Tools Needed for Testing and Repair A basic hand tool set. The Springlock quick release toolset pictured below is the type that works best for me. The cheap plastic disk type can be hard to use, there’s not much to grab on to for leverage if the spring sticks. Springlock Quick Release Tool AC Manifold Set A/C Manifold gauge set. Don't get Harbor Freight's, Mastercool or Robinair will due. Digital multimeter with dc volt, 10 amp, ohm and continuity test. It doesn't have to be a Fluke, but if it has a temperature probe even better, a good meter will last a life time. 12 volt test light. Get the type with the ground cord permanently attached. The type that has the removable cord will give a false reading of open circuit. Evacuation (vacuum) pump. Harbor Freight's 2.2 CFM pump for home use is good. Halogen leak detector. I use an Advanced Test Products 5750A halogen type leak detector that's no longer available. There are other types, find one that fits your needs. UV dye and leak detector. A true UV flash light and a can of dye is all you need. Digital cooking thermometer. A cheap one for checking the vent temperature will work just fine. Digital contact thermometer. Used for checking temperature differences in the system. Some temperature changes can be only 2-3°F. A noncontact inferred thermometer will not give an accurate reading. A small digital scale. Used to measure how much refrigerant to add to the system. Glass measuring cup. Used for measuring lubricating oil. Safety glasses. No explanation needed. AC Compressor Does Not Turn On Attach your A/C manifold gauges and check static pressure (low and high pressure the same with A/C off). If the pressure is 45psi or higher start engine and turn on A/C. If the pressure is lower than 45psi then add 134A until a static reading of 45-50psi is reached. Check if the A/C compressor clutch is engaging when A/C is selected. If the clutch does not engage, turn the engine off, ground the brown wire at the low pressure switch at the accumulator. Start the engine and recheck the compressor clutch. If the clutch engages the problem can be a bad low or high pressure switch (≥ 5Ω is good), or open circuit in the wires between the PCM , the switches and ground. Both switches can be replaced without discharging the system. If the compressor clutch still didn't engage with the pressure switch jumpered then ohm check the clutch coil. Remove the A/C compressor clutch relay from the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and connect an ohm meter between where terminal 87 of the relay would fit into the PDC and ground. There should be a reading of about 15Ω. If 0Ω then there is a short to ground and if the reading is 1 then there is an open circuit and testing at the connector on the compressor is needed to see if there’s a problem with the wiring or the clutch coil. Testing for Voltage to the A/C Clutch Coil With a voltmeter there should be running voltage from the charging system going to the compressor coil. If the voltage difference at the clutch coil is .3 volts or more than at the battery then there is high resistance in the system and it needs to be corrected. If there is no voltage to the clutch coil then check for voltage at the AC compressor clutch relay in the PCM. Remove the relay and with the engine running and AC control turned on, using a voltmeter, there should be running voltage at terminal 30 (PK/DB wire) and 86 (DB/WT wire). If there is no voltage at terminal 30 then check fuse ‘J’ (10 amp) in the PDC. If there is no voltage at 86 then check fuse #11 (10 amp) in the junction block. When there is running voltage to terminal 30 and 86 of the A/C relay then install the relay and ground terminal 85 (DB/OR wire). If there is no voltage at terminal 87 (DB/BK wire) then the relay is bad. If there is voltage at terminal 87 then there is either an open circuit from relay terminal 85 to PCM or a bad PCM. Clutch Air Gap Check the air gap of the A/C clutch with feeler gauges. The gap between the clutch and pulley should be between .016"-.031". If the gap is to little the clutch disk could drag on the pulley causing accelerated wear on the parts. When the gap is to big the clutch will not engage because the magnetic force cannot overcome the distance and the clutch will not engage the pulley. Leak Testing the A/C System If the A/C system is low on refrigerant there is a leak that needs to be repaired. There should be a minimum static reading of 50psi when doing a leak test. There are several ways to leak test the system but here are three ways you can do it at home. First Testing Method The least expensive way is using liquid dish soap. Start by doing this test on a calm day or in a garage. Clean the dirt, grease and oil from the areas that will be tested making note of any large oil stains. These stains may indicate where the leak in the A/C system is located. Mix water with liquid dish soap until bubbly and either brush or spray it on one place at a time. Wait 10 minutes before testing the next area. If even one bubble forms then there is a leak in that spot and needs to be repaired. The evaporator cannot be tested this way when encased in the HVAC assembly. Second Testing Method Injecting a fluorescent dye that glows under a UV (black) light is a proven method with good results. Be sure to clean dirt and grease from fittings because if the leak is small the dirt covering can hide the UV dye coming out. This test is best performed in a darken area. To do the test you first must add the UV dye to the system. There are three ways you can add a small amount of dye to the system: add a can of 134A with UV leak detector in it when the system is too low to turn the compressor on (static pressure below 20psi), or 2 if there is enough pressure to cycle the compressor add a can of UV leak detector, or 3 inject the UV dye directly into the low pressure test port. After 30 minutes of operating the A/C system the dye will have mixed with the oil and refrigerant and the system can be scanned with the UV light. If there is a leak it will show as a fluorescent stain. If no leak is detected at this time, you can recheck at any time because the dye will stay in the system. Most cheap 'UV' lights are a blue light or a black light not in the 400nm range. With that type of 'UV' light the yellow glasses must be used, a true UV light doesn't need them. The front compressor seal can be checked by sliding an index card or heavy bond paper between the front of the compressor and the pulley. If the seal is leaking there will be a dyed oil stain on the card. For other hard to see areas a cotton swab can be passed over the spot and then examined. Once again, the evaporator cannot be directly inspected. It may be possible, to very carefully, drill a small hole in the side near the bottom of the evaporator box. The bottom of the box can be swabbed by inserting a long cotton swab through the small hole. Any oil/dye that has dripped down to the bottom of the box will be absorbed by the cotton swab. Remove swab and inspect with UV light. Third Testing Method I've used an electronic (halogen) leak detector for many years with good results. This small hand held battery powered tool has a small fan inside the probe that draws air across a sensor. When 134A is detected an alarm sounds and a light scale is activated. The more gas that is detected the louder the alarm and more lights are illuminated on the scale. Once again there should be no air movement around the truck. Do not clean any of the oil, dirt or grease and do not spray any carb or brake cleaner in the area. Since 134A is heavier than air it is important to keep the end of the probe below the area that is being tested, IE: under the front of the compressor and not above or the side to test for a front seal leak. The sensor is very sensitive but can be slow to react to a leak due to the time delay of the fan drawing the air over the sensor. The probe should be moved slowly at about 1"/sec and sometimes even slower. The tip of the probe must be kept clean so air can flow down to the sensor. I have found evaporator leaks by placing the tip of the probe in the A/C drain tube or by inserting it in the center dash vent then turning the fan on low for a few seconds. A/C High and Low Pressures There is no set pressure for a set temperature in a mobile air conditioning system. There are just too many variables that influence the outcome. There is temperature, humidity, engine speed, engine temperature, air flow over the condenser and evaporator, condition of the compressor and a host of other things that give the final pressure reading. So, to minimize different readings when testing, it is necessary to conduct the test the same way every time. Dodge along with other manufactures suggest to do it with: the engine at full operating temperature, the engine rpms at 1000 (others say up to 1500rpm), A/C control set to A/C-Max, temperature control to cold, fan speed at max (others recommend a medium fan speed), doors and windows closed with thermometer in the center vent. A rule of thumb for a fully charged system is the high side pressure to be 2.2-2.5 times the ambient temperature (80°F x 2.2-2.5 = 176-200psi); and, the inlet temperature of the evaporator is within 1-2°F of its' discharge temperature. Adding the correct amount of refrigerant is hard to do when just topping off a system. Anyone can 'dump' a can in but is that enough or too much. An A/C system will cool sufficiently with only a 75% charge in it but will suffer a slow compressor death due to overheating and lack of lubrication. With only a 10% overcharge the cooling efficiency will start to decline and a good chance of liquid refrigerant reaching the compressor causing catastrophic failure. The only true way to know the charge amount is correct is to evacuate the system and recharge with the correct amount. Below are some examples of what causes high and low pressure readings: High Side: Low Refrigerant is low, check for leaks, repair as needed. Low Side: Low High Side: High System is over charged - reduce charge. Low Side: High Check engine cooling system for low coolant/overheating, engine thermostat, fan clutch, radiator blocked , poor air flow over radiator. High Side: Normal Air blend door not closed - adjust or repair. Low Side: Normal Moisture in system - replace accumulator, evacuate and recharge. High Side: High Air in system (2%> of air by volume) - replace Low Side: Normal accumulator, evacuate and recharge. High Side: High Blockage in system - check for heavy sweating or orifice tube, or frost in system at Low Side: Low orifice tube, condenser, or accumulator. Clear blockage, replace accumulator, a evacuate and recharge. High Side: Low Refrigerant is low or restriction in accumulator or evaporator. Low Side: Normal High Side: Low Near static pressure – orifice tube is broken or Low Side: High missing; or the belt is slipping; or a bad compressor; or, if compressor clutch is slipping check air gape and voltage. Repairing A/C system I am not going to tell you how to change a part but give some helpful hints to avoid the pitfalls. Have all the parts and tools on hand ready to go. The faster you open and close the system the less of a moisture problem. If you have to purge the refrigerant from the system and it can’t be captured, crack open the low and high side valves. If the valves are opened to much refrigerant oil will be forced out by the escaping 134A. You won’t know how much is lost and it makes a mess. If you are replacing the compressor due to a catastrophic failure replace the orifice tube, accumulator and also the condenser. A lot of debris can get stuck in the tubes of the condenser and flushing may not clear it out. The cost of an aftermarket one is cheap and you are not worried “did I get it all out”. You will need to drain the oil out of the old compressor into the measuring cup and make note of the amount. Discard old oil. Now, drain the oil out of the new compressor then add the amount, in fresh oil, that was drained from the old compressor plus 2oz for the new accumulator and 1oz for the new condenser to the new compressor. Always replace the o-rings when working on an open system. They are a possible point of future leakage, and it’s cheap and easy to do. All O-rings need to be coated with A/C mineral oil NOT PAG oil. PAG oil is hydroscopic and will cause corrosion on the outside of the hose fittings and O-rings. When evacuating the system let the vacuum pump run for at least an hour, the longer the better. This is turning any liquid water into a vapor by causing water to boil. Water will boil at 70°F when the vacuum is at or greater than 29.18inHg. The vapor has to make its way out of the system to the low and high side ports. This is why it takes so long to evacuate the system. When done evacuating the system close the valves on the A/C gauge manifold and wait. If the gauges move then there is still a large leak in the system. A small leak cannot be found this way because only 15psi is being exerted inward when the system normally runs with a static pressure of 80+psi and a running high side pressure of 170+psi pushing out. When first adding 134A to the system from a single use 12oz can the low side pressure will jump up to 60+psi and then come down, depending how much refrigerant is in the system, to 20-45psi. The can will also become cold due to the pressure drop in the can and the refrigerant boiling. When the can is no longer cool or cold there is no more refrigerant in the can or going into the system. To expedite the charging time jumper the plug for the low pressure switch this will keep the compressor clutch from cycling off. The refrigerant will enter the system faster when the can of 134A is placed in a container of warm water. The 134A turns to a gas in the can faster due to the heat of the warm water. Only 134A in its gas state should enter the system, adding liquid 134A before the compressor can destroy it. The A/C system requires 32oz of 134A for a full charge. When using a single use 12oz can you’ll need 3 cans. After adding 2 cans (which is 24oz) weigh the third can on the kitchen scale and make note of the weight. When adding the remaining 8oz (2/3 of the can) check the weight of the can occasionally. When the can is 8oz lighter you’re done. The above information is not all inclusive for A/C repairs. However, I hit on a lot of the procedures, tools, and knowledge needed to perform basic air condition repairs for the 2000 RAM 2500 DIESEL. Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMOBILE 8/27/2016
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    Torque Converter Issues and Alternator Noise Testing Before Testing - IMPORTANT PLEASE DO NOT SKIP! Before doing any testing of the alternator for AC noise, make sure to remove any and all wiring modifications. Return the electrical system back to stock. Make sure there is no extra grounds, relocation of ground wires or noise filters installed before testing the alternator. It has been brought to my attention that wiring mods can and will provide false passing grades for the alternator. The entire electrical system should be left stock and unmodified so you (the owner) are alerted sooner to impending alternator failure. Stock system will show AC noise issues much sooner than modified system which will mask the issue and then typically cause damage to ECM, PCM or VP44 sooner. 2 Methods of Testing your Alternator for AC Noise 1. Remove the 140 amp alternator fuse in the PDC. Then unplug the field lead of the rear of the alternator. DO NOT remove the heavy charge lead. This was handled by removing the alternator fuse. Now go for test drive and see if the torque converter lockup issues occurs. If no torque converter lock up isssues then the alternator is at fault for AC noise issues. I highly suggest you verify by having the alternator bench tested and or do test #2 below. 2. Remove the turbo intake tube. Now using a high quality digital volt meter like Fluke or Extech. The DVM should have an AC scale capable of reading down to millivolts AC. If not you'll see measured AC volts in the range of 29 to 31 volts which is erred. AC Noise Voltage levels Normal - 0.01 to 0.03 AC Volts Marginal - 0.05 to 0.09 AC Volts (Some folks have reported random or odd behavior occurring at this low of voltage) Fail - 0.1 AC Volts and above. Here is another video explaining the AC noise even better... Failed diode waveforms will create some unusual patterns which will create the torque converter issues you guys are having. Here is a normal alternator output with good diodes. Why am I going out and trying to fix this problem? Because the AC noise created by the alternator is being fed to all systems ECM, PCM, ABS, etc. So there is a chance that some of the random failures of ECM's and VP44 is caused from a failed alternator. Replacement Alternators I've been asked about what kind of alternator should be used. I've seen several folks buy brand new alternators and get several in a row that failed out of the box. I've seen personally several remanufactured alternators failed out of the box. Then some folks think that dealer alternator is going to better but you not guarantee a quality alternator either. So, what is an owner to do? The best thing I can suggest is to buy what you can afford but before you leave the store have them bench test your new alternator for a passing grade. Some folks have now gone to upgrade alternators like Nations Alternators which are all brand new and upgrade to high amperage output. Again, it about what you can afford and brand new is not a guarantee that it's good alternator. Another Member Results As posted from craneop (AKA: Terry Quirk) OK! Problem solved! Yippee!!! Took the recently purchased Alternator back to O'Reilly's where I got it from, had them test it on their tester. They told me they run the test 3 times and if they get a PASS all three times, its a good alternator. When I asked about measuring AC Voltage, they looked dumbfounded, so I asked them if I could hook my multi-meter up to the alternator while they tested? They agreed! So now this alternator is reading .35 Volts AC as the first test PASS'S, they run the second test and we get a FAIL, the guy gives me a funny look, checks his wires and runs the third test and we get another FAIL. So the guy now rells me guess we have a bad alternator but they don't have another one on the shelf and I will need to wait till tomorrow to bring one in from the other store. I say, I'm OK with that, but that I've learned my lesson and we are going to have to test the next alternator as well before I leave the store with it. The next morning (yesterday) they call me and let me know the alternator is in and I can come down and pick it up. We do the test like before, and this time we get a PASS, PASS, PASS, however my multi-meter is reading 0.3 Volts AC, and then I also notice that on their machine there is a box at the top that says Diodes and across from that box on the screen says N/A. So I ask the guy about it and he says their machine has no way of testing the diodes, it only test for overall condition of the alternator. Unhappy with what I'm hearing and looking at, I request my money back which they had no problem with at all, however the core I earlier took in was no longer in the store so the gave me cash in the amount of $215.00 (their core charge on that alternator $36.00 along with the full purchace price of $179.00.) By this time I have no core, only to find out all the other auto parts stores around town are charging a $70 - $80 core charge for this alterrnator, and a lot of the places have no tester. Starting to get a bit frustrated, I decided to quit messing around and go to the most reliable place in town I know of, a small family owned auto electric and mechanical shop (Auto Electric, Anchorage, Alaska). I was hoping that maybe they had heard of this isuue I am having with the TCL and get fixed up with a good alternator. They rebuild all kinds of auto electrical parts right there in house as well a run a full service auto mechanic shop. Well,,,,I explained my problem to them and showed them a printed copy of the troubleshooting procedure I got from the Mopa1973Man website, to which they said...never heard of this before. However these guys are real pro's and they didn't blow me off. They took my concerns seriously, brought two techs in out of the shop to talk with me about this, as I explainded to them the 0.1 Volt AC upper limit thing. They genuinly got concerned and were pulling down alternators, checking them on the bench and checking outputs at vehicles in the shop. In all, I was in there for about two hours while they tested and discussed and in the end the shop found me a NEW alternator and gave me a heck of a deal @ $239.00 w/no core charge. The NEW alternator was putting out 0.22 Volts AC on their alternator bench vise, and that concerned me cause I was looking for something under 0.1 VAC. However in further discussion, the techs I was working with concluded, (and BTW they turned out to be right),that the test machine itself was putting off AC Noise and that the Fluke Meter was picking up that AC Noise during the test, and that since the Voltage Regulator is on either the PCM or ECM, the only way to accuratly read out the AC output on this alternator was to put it on the vehicle and measure it at that time. So,,,I took the alternator home, hooked it all up, and WALLA... measured at the battries -0.01 Volts AC @idle, and 0.00 Volts AC @2000 RPM. Feeling pretty good at this point I take it for a test drive. Runs and shifts perfectly. NO MORE PROBLEMS!!! Cory, I believe he's the manger or maybe owner, at Auto Electric said though he's heard and dealt with a lot of Dodge Cummins issues like this before, had never heard of this shifting problem being linked to + 0.10 VAC output on the alternator. He asked me to check back in with him to let him know how all this worked out. I will do that on Monday, as well as express my thanks for all the personal attention, efforts and concerns Auto Electric gave to me to adress my problem. In the meantime, my utmost gratitude to Mopar1973Man for sharing your knoweledge and wisdom on this issue. I had tried all the bandaid tricks only to have them each work for anywhere to a couple hours to a couple days or so and then reappear. I believe what was happening was that as I fixed a ground or foiled a wire, it masked the problem just long enough for the diodes on the alternator to get a little worse and then BOOM, the problem is back! Very good information Mopar1973Man!!! Happy Holidays!!! Update: November 19, 2014 Here we go with another blown alternator confirming without a doubt of the diodes being a cause. Before any repair... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4988-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues/page-10#entry100230 After the alternator is rebuilt... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4988-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues/page-10#entry100294 The cause...
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    2002 Dodge Ram Engine Wiring
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    Be careful, the early 2nd gens with a 6 speed also had a SO pump. I replaced my VP44 last year and it had an SO pump.
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    You'd more then likely be fine with just a SO pump. Just go with whoever offers the best warranty and has good customer services. Vulcan and DAP are good choices.
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    Well just wanted to give me official take on the new trans! So a quick background of where I'm coming from in the diesel trans world... stock... just..... stock! Even power related stuff.... STOCK! So obviously, it was quite an eye opener when I hoped in Jon's stage 3 for the first time. Things that stood out the most for me was the overall amount of throttle needed to get the truck accelerating. To me it seems roughly about half the amount of throttle input is needed then before to get the truck moving the same. That slightly lower stall speed converter makes a huuuuuge difference. Next is the shifting. Started out a little firm shifting 1-2 and 2-3 but it's getting better. The more throttle input the smoother the shifts. I think a lot of this has to do with the xzt but even with that off, the shifting is still so much better. Once you get the xzt turned on it gets better and from what Jon's told me, it'll only get better the more power I throw at it. A couple things I wasn't really expecting was the 'coasting' seems to not be as 'coasting' as will the stock. I imagine that's because of the more stout internals aren't as loose as before or something, but definitely nothing negative. The truck also seems to idle a little deeper then before haha and it still has the stock exhaust! MPGs on the way out there were right at 20mpgs although I think that was slightly low due to the stop and go traffic I hit for a little over an hour going over Snoqualmie Pass but either way it was around a 360 mile trip and I was pulling into Spokane with right at half a tank. I imagine that my MPGs are at least the same or better now. Either way, if anyone's on the fence about getting their transmission worked on, do it! Just make sure you get it done right, Jon can get you squared away in no time.
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    You need to drop in once in awhile there is always someone talking transmissions here.
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    lololol you know it's Jacob right? His garbage is the only truck that rivals my garbage
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    Parking might be an issue unless you just park on the the car on either side of you.
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    I pulled it apart last night and they aren't as worn as they looked, but now is the time to replace them. They would still accelerate the wear of the new brushes. I had had a failing winch motor two winters ago and it was putting a major electrical strain on the alternator. I wonder if the high current started the wear.
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    If the system is empty, it won't allow the clutch to kick on (keeps from destroying the pump) I would get a gauge or at least one of those "fill up" bottles with a gauge so you can see if there's any R134a in it.
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    Good point. Ensure you get to the root cause of the issue. My fuel guage sender went bad on me a few years back in a Suburban (44 gallon tank) and I thought I still had 1/4 tank. Since then I am all over resetting the trip mileage in every car. I know about how much mileage I should be getting per tank. Hasn't really come in hand yet but I feel it will someday.
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    How much fuel did you end up putting in it when you fueled up? Just curious if you were really out of fuel or have a fuel pick up problem.
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    For $60 I'd give it a try and see if I could save $800. I know that you're on a time line with that trailer but for that kind of money I'd move the pick up time back. I've rebuilt a few Mitsubishi turbos and taking it slow, keeping the rebuild area clean, and having the right snap ring plyers the jobs a piece of cake. Halve of the job is taking the turbo off and on which you would be doing anyway with the replacement unit.
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    @Timburrr I rebuild a turbo in the past on a different vehicle, they are not hard like mentioned. And I believe the only difference between hx35 and hx35w is one has a wastegate the other one doesn't.
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    Guess I should've asked the most obvious question.... is the tank full? Any chance your getting air in the lines causing the drop? @JAG1 that sounds like a return spring/ball issue. Saw something similar on my FASS so assuming your 150 has a return spring/ball, I'd check there.
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