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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    oops Oregon not Washington, still want to see if I can hook you two up?
  2. 1 point
    Installation of the High Idle in the overhead console also ordered the 12" extension to ensure I have enough on the other side of the firewall.
  3. 1 point
    I can see why you would say that...I would think the pores of the paper would deform after spending so much time submerged and changing the filtering ability. And that could only be seen under a microscope. However I have trouble seeing how the discoloration of the media has nothing to do with how dirty it is. I would have to disagree with that part.
  4. 1 point
    I too got my quad when they first come out and experienced similar issues. Many times I thought about selling it and getting an edge. As time went by I played with Tunes and got to a happy enough spot to get by. As soon as v2 tuning came out thanks to @Me78569 contribution of programming, it instantly became a game changer on vp44 trucks. If you got a basic knowledge of computers and software you should be able to upgrade your old module to new V2 tuning yourself. I'm not that bright but somehow I did it.
  5. 1 point
    So this is the point in your life where you must decide if you want to continue on your road or change things up. You could always move to town, close to where your mom needs her treatment and get a regular job. That would keep mom taken care of, and let you get some more interaction, friends, conversations, and income. Sure it's not the ideal mountain life that you love, but then again it may not be as ideal anymore... otherwise this conversation would not be happening. There would be pro's and con's to moving, but either way it will be what you make of it. You've got a truck and a RV, you can move to town and then spend your time on the road to the mountains when you're not at work. That's how the rest of us get by. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to live up where you do but I don't have a way to support my family up there so I visit the mountains and hope to retire up there some day. It's the end game that keeps me sane in the city... and really Boise is a great place to live. I've live in bigger cities, there is very little to complain about in Boise. Just throwing it out there.
  6. 1 point
    Qwadzila would be your next best bet. What were your 7x10 popped to
  7. 1 point
    Bacon Creek, can't help you there; I'd contact American Wheel, I'm sure they could answer any questions. Thanks again for your interest in my "project". Part 7: As some of you probably noticed in Part 6 picture postings, the last photo shows a 96 5.9 Cummins engine between the rails. I obviously decided to take the leap and replace the 440 gasser; I found a 96 4WD unit through a friend of mine. The engine had been off the road since 2000, it was involved in a roll-over, pulled from the body and stored until I bought it (with the provision that I would pay for it after it was started). I'll attach a couple of pictures of it "chained" between the rails and some pre-start steps intended to ensure oil was cycled through the system before power was put to the starter. I made an oil cannister out of PVC, hooked up a pressure hose to the oil system and pressurized the cannister forcing the oil through the system, being observed in the rocker arms. The engine started after just a few cranks and ran like a top. I'll attach a few additional pictures showing "cleanup" and pre-installation. I know I'm still screwing up the way I post these offerings but don't know the right procedure. Thanks for your patience.
  8. 1 point
    I reached the conclusion for me that even at the age of a 1999, and having already dumped more into the truck then i could sell it for, I've spent more and more time doing work on it. I believe that watching countless people go from 2nd gens into 3rd and 4th gens only to go back to the 2nds, and complain about the cost of injectors, cp3's and emissions its north worth the hassle. It maybe a toy but my 99 will still get up and tow when i need it to. Simplicity of the design also makes them more reliable.
  9. 1 point
    LED Under hood lighting for Dodge Ram Trucks I wanted more light under the hood when I am working there or when I was just checking oil or other fluid levels etc. I decided to try installing some LED lights to see if this would improve the situation. Since this was to be an experiment to see if it could improve things and if I would like it I didn't want to spend a lot of money to start with. I checked around for various light options and looked at how they could be mounted. I liked the idea of using a small multibulb bar setup because I could tuck it in an area that wouldn't come in contact with the body or engine when I closed the hood. My thinking was that if I installed 2 of these lights I could focus the out put on each side of the engine bay. I finally opted for a small 6 bulb (6w) bar that was sold by Super Bright Led. The output was rated at 600 lumens for each light assembly and came with its own ss mounting bracket and hardware and sold for $19.95 for a pair of lights. This would give me 1200 lumens under the hood. The assembly was small enough that I could mount it on the front lip of the hood (just on the backside of the grill) and I could close the hood and the lights would easily clear the radiator support cross member and when the hood was open the lights would be up high and out of the way and give a good unobstructed light input into the bay area. So I marked the install location and mounted the brakets for the light assembly. When I installed the light assembly in its bracket I then adjusted the swivel location so the light pointed directly into the center of the engine bay. The swivel feature also allows the light to be adjusted or re-aimed as needed. Checking the closure of the hood verified that everything cleared with inches to spare. I wanted to have the lights operate just like the stock underhood light (open the hood and the light comes on and close the hood and the light goes out). Keep it simple with no additional wiring or switches. This dictated that I would just connect my wiring to the stock underhood light. After removing the stock light assembly I drilled 2 small holes in the plastic housing for a place to have the 18ga wiring enter into the assembly and connect to the existing light setup. I decided to solder my leads onto the existing brass tangs built into the stock light assembly. After soldering the leads in place I then installed a 1/4" wire loom covering to keep these new wires from be abraded of scuffed when they were finally installed inside the hood stiiffening bracket. This bracket proved a natural channel for the wire to be housed in and it led to the front of the hood near where I had mounted my LED light assemblies. After I hooked everything up I replaced the IOD fuse to check if the lights worked as I had hoped for. They did and here is a picture of the assembly lighted. It was a little hard to get a picture of the lights on because they over powered the eye sensor on the camera so I had to point the camera away from the lights so I could take a picture. Of course when you do that you can't see how bright the lights are. But it will give you an idea of the finished set up with the wires tir wrapped up out of the way. I also placed plug-in barrel connectors on my connections to the LED lights so if I decide to use a different light then I don't have to cut wire or run new wiring. Here is a picture of the underhood light that is put out by these LED assemblies. This is no flash and the time is at dusk. This is a big improvement (over the weak stock light) and I have light enough to even easily read a paper by.
  10. 0 points
    Where to start? The performance shop that installed the clutch did not have availability to check the install and said it was fine/normal operation. Very acceptable right? They are now out of business. That was not satisfactory so I dropped the truck off with a regular maintenance shop run by a family I trust. The list of problems the new shop found is long. First, the flywheel had cardboard between it and the crank so it was not on straight. In addition the bolts were finger tight … yes FINGER TIGHT! The clutches were not installed in the proper orientation (was organic towards center) and the clutch fork had a bright yellow sticker on it which stated, “Remove the washer before installation” … the washer was not removed. Several bolts were missing from various places on the transmission including bolts that held the transmission to the block, top cover bolts (the transmission was leaking from there), and several other places. I will have to look at my receipt for all the mission bolts once I get the truck back. In addition, the previous shop dropped the transmission on the front diff actuator (broken) and crushed some of the metal vacuum lines, which disabled the 4-wheel drive. The previous shop also killed both batteries in the truck, and instead of fully charging or replacing the batteries they jump-started it and the alternator could not handle the additional amperage of trying to charge two dead batteries so it welded itself solid (that is why I needed a Mechman alternator). Upon replacing the alternator, the shop broke my fan shroud, and somehow in this space of time broke my hood light. As of Friday, the transmission is back in the truck and the shop is working on fixing the 4-wheel drive. The shop wants to take it on a test drive to see if the shifting is better (it was HORRIBLE to shift) or if additional internal work needs to be completed such as shift forks. They believe all the issues due to the atrocious install were the cause of the appalling shifting, vibration, and noise and additional internal work is not necessary; however, the shop needs to complete a test drive to verify that.
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