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Well new to me at least! Some of you helped me out in my other thread when looking for one. Well I finally pulled the trigger and picked one up! It's a 2002 4x4 QC LB auto. Single owner, garage kept majority of its life, never had a goose neck or 5th wheel (which is harder to find than you'd think up here). Came with a 2in leveling kit and 35's and a hypertech 'tuner' to fix the speedo. Other then that, she's all stock. I crawled under to check for any signs of a 53 and couldn't find anything, so I might have a mexican block, but I'm going to keep checking. I couldn't be happier! I originally wanted a manual, but the wife said, if I'm getting a new truck then she better at least be able to drive it. So rather then argue, I just said 'ok' and got lookin! Anyways, wanted to start a thread here because, since it is stock and I'm planning on keeping this truck for the long haul, I wanted to do some mini write ups of the mods and what not I get done to her. As of now, here's the order I want to go in: 1. FUEL! and lots of it! 2. Gauges 3. Steering 4. Transmission 5. More power! 3 and 4 may get swapped around depending on what's needed more and my budget but that's the general order. So to start, fuel... The stock injection pump was replaced by the dealer 50-60k miles ago so it should have some decent life left, and it looks like they moved the stock lift pump. I didn't track it down exactly, just looking fairly quickly, and couldn't find it mounted on the frame, did they do in tank LP's for 02's? I'd like to fatten up my fuel lines to 3/8s everywhere possible, also looking to go with the Fuel Boss, but not sure how that works if my LP is mounted in the back in tank if that's even a thing. Any ideas or experience with this? As of now I'm looking at getting the following for step 1. FUEL BOSS ----- BIG LINE KIT ----- MOD FUEL MODULE As far as fuel lines, the obvious is the big line kit from Vulcan but I figured I'd talk with Eric about getting lines replace as much stock line as possible. I also threw on the modified fuel module. I saw that as I was browsing their site and hadn't seen it before. Is that necessary at all? Keep in mind I'm just looking to have fuel flow as easily as possible through the truck. When more power rolls around I don't plan on going EXTREME, but would like lack of fuel to never be thought of again after this. I'll leave at this for now but really looking forward to wrenching on this truck and getting her setup for the long haul!

Use a paper clip to "jump" the connection/plug on the rear pumpkin then use a multimeter under the hood on those wires to verify that the wiring is good. If it is then replace the sensor.

I have 2 6v golf cart batteries in my 5er. I keep the 5er plugged in 24/7 and use the converter-charger that came with the rig does the work. The cells get topped up with distilled water every 4-5 mo.

This is great! You get a used camper, pull everything apart and then put back together they way YOU want it. You'll go out on the road with the comforting thought, 'I know everything works the way I want it to'. There's no beer cans lying around in the pics so you know the work is done right.

That is correct, the HY35, HE341, and HE351 all have the same turbine. However the HY35 has a 54/76.5 and the HE341 has a 56/76.5. These are measurements I personally took and compiled here. I don't have an updated thread on the boost governor, but here's an old one, but the internals have changed considerably. If you're thinking about building one, let me know, I'm pretty sure I can make one and ship it to you for cheaper.

Again, remember, this is a HY35 but with a HX35 compressor wheel, otherwise known as a HE341. On the wastegate I understand 100%! With the HX35 I made my own wastegate actuator that put a "banks bighead" plumb to shame, and I also designed a boost governor, which basically plugged the wastegate until my set pressure is reached then opens it as needed to maintain your desired boost. So if it's set at 35 psi, the wastegate will be closed and no pressure in it at 34 psi, and fully open at 36 psi. The plate that goes over the wastegate had a dent from the wastegate opening all the way and hitting it. If you can rig up a way to run a boost line from compressor to wastegate that you can hook a boost governor into, I'll make you one and you can have it at cost, just let me know what you think of it. On this HY35-D I enlarged the wastegate to 29mm and am running a spring gate. I need to measure everything again, but I'm pretty sure that it doesn't open till at least 20 psi. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you, but you said that boost:drive is 1:1 till 12 psi? The charts below are easier to read, they are actually 1:1 till about 25-26 psi. One thing to remember though, boost:drive ratio, especially on these smaller turbo's/turbines are largely dependent on RPM. With the HX35 I got 10 psi boost and 6 psi drive pressure at 1200 RPM. But at 2800 RPM, boost is 24, and drive pressure is 35. 1800-2100 RPM was the happy spot for the HX35, it ran about 1:1 regardless of boost, but spooling was still very fast. Is this easier to read, the X axis is RPM. If you would like me to format it differently let me know. Also, you can enlarge my pictures by clicking them. HY35-D (HE341) HX35