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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/08/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    It sounds like these guys are way over their skis on this deal. They don't seem to know what they built, or how it works. This is why I rail against "box builders" so openly. When guys just start simply ordering and assembling random parts just because they are supposedly "better than stock", you end up with a conglomeration of stuff that the "builder" often doesn't understand the function of. All they know is that the instructions said to put the blue spring in the 3rd valve from the end, and to drill hole "A" to .100", and hole B to .125", etc. They have no idea the function of that stuff, so when it comes time to diagnose something that's not right, blank stares ensue... Rant over. My apologies... Stepping off of soap box... What is your line pressure, and what does the curve look like from idle to WOT? What does line pressure do when the TC locks up and/or when OD engages? I don't mention disconnecting the alternator as a "nothing to lose" type of operation. I build 200+ 4 speed Dodges every year, and the 2nd Gen trucks are notorious for this type of thing. I'll bet I see this at least 20-25 times a year. If you've got a converter cycling issue, the likely cause is a bad alternator, and disconnecting it is the quickest, down and dirty method for tracking it down. Same with setting the TV cable. Setting it by adjusting the WOT 1-2 shift is the simplest way to get your TV cable right, especially with Lord knows what done to the valve body. Every "shift kit" that I know of modifies the TV regulator in some way, rendering any manual kind of irrelevant.
  2. 2 points
    Oh boy... Yeah, let's not start cranking on the VB adjustments! That's a bit of a slippery slope, but I digress... I don't really think you have a line pressure issue per se, but it would be nice to know what kind of curve you have, what kind of "shift kit" was used, and to make sure that your boost valve is functioning properly when lockup is commanded.
  3. 2 points
    fuel boss mechanical is what i run and wont look back. https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/i-1112-98-5-02-gdp-fuel-boss-mechanical-lift-pump-system.html?ref=category:92
  4. I thought about putting an ecodiesel emblem on my truck with this v2 tuning
  5. 1 point
    I haven't been much help here because, to be honest, I don't have a real good grasp on what exactly it is that you're feeling. It's always tough (often impossible) to offer good advice based on an "it kinda feels like this" description. I'll offer this because I see it quite often on the second gen trucks: Have you tried disconnecting the alternator and seeing if it still does it? Drive it so that you can get it to act up, then pull over, leave the truck running, and disconnect the small two-wire connector at the alternator. Drive it again under the same circumstances as was making it act up before and see if it continues to act up. If it quits doing it, you have a bad alternator. If it still does it, it isn't the alternator, and you can move on to search elsewhere. I've seen guys get really hung up on this and waste a lot of time here. If that's not the problem and you are having converter slip/chatter issues, you'll need to find out why (obviously). First of all, whose converter and VB were used in the build? (I'm sure it's listed somewhere in here, but I'll just ask.) Was it a triple or a single disc converter? What kind of pressures were/are you seeing? What is your WOT 1-2 shift point set at? I have, WAY more than once, seen people opt for a single disc converter during a build based on the whole "can't put a triple disc converter on a stock input shaft" myth, only to have the same slip/chatter issues as their stock converter had due to a poorly configured valve body.
  6. It's not bad once you get your hands on it. If you want to see what it is like, download the app from the play store. Iquad by quadzilla. You can build your own tunes or import one of the ones we have here.
  7. 1 point
    I finally got my truck back the other week and now have a Goerend valve body, and all is good. I also had someone who does dodge 4 speeds/cummins/diesels all day long do the work. Previous shop did a good job on the actual tranny, but fell short on the VB.
  8. A cost effective way to get a better alternator with 12 diodes & a 6 phase stator is the 160amp "Police package" unit used on some early 2000's Durangos & LEO vehicles. You'll need to swap it's 7 groove pulley with the 8 groove diesel pulley, and use the newer OEM style 2 prong field connector in place of the bolted on field terminal/power block. With the higher idle of a Cummins, mine was right at around 122amps at idle, and the lower end of 180amps at max load.
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