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Performed the WT mod this weekend and a few things I have noticed already. 1. The WTS light pops instantly, use to miss about 2 out of 10 key turns! 2. Shifts better 3. for some reason the truck runs quieter- lotta turbo whine now The bolt I had to use was a 6X1.0 M, Copper terminal ends and soldered after crimp

While I'm not a huge fan of Amsoil I broke down and bought their 75w-110 diff oil. I was going to go with Mobil One 75w-90 but thought the Amsoil would provide a little extra cushion with a loaded truck. We just returned from a ~2000 mile swing through the southwest last week and I kept good track of mileage and fuel use. My rig with camper normally gets around 18mpg on one of these trips. The camper sticks up above the cab and provides plenty of drag. With the Amsoil though I got 20.25mpg. Changing out the differential oil was the only major change made so I have to give the credit to the 75w-110 oil. That's around a 10% improvement in mileage. The real surprise is how much headwind we encountered. I really expected my mileage to drop somewhat but it went up. I'll have to keep track of this on our next trip but I'm liking Amsoil's 75w-110 oil right now. Your mileage may vary!

To find your sloppyness, you have to get someone to wiggle the steering wheel for you. You will begin checking in this order: 1) Steering shaft to steering box. put your hand on the shaft. watch the person turning the wheel. the shaft should react EXACTLY like the input. (the two things you looking for here is/are the rag joint (about midway to the steering box under the hood. and the input to the steering box. The input you just have to watch and make sure. the rag joint you can use two hands (one above and one below) it should move EXACTLY the same. 2) Steering box output shaft (the shaft the pitman arm connects to.) Have the person audibly tell you which way they are steering. Make sure you note when they say going back to left to see if there is a delay in the new directional movement. 3) Pitman arm drag link connection. put your hand around this joint. close your eyes and feel. As the box changes direction do both parts move EXACTLY the same or does one part move a bit before the other? Does the draglink rotate before it begins moving? Our truck are notorious for the steering gearbox to get loose and need tightening. I have personally had the pitman arm draglink connection go bad a couple times..... (there were two different taper lengths used. It could be someone didn't notice and put the wrong combination together and it doesn't tighten properly. Lay under the truck while the person wiggles the steering. Everything should move together and the wheels should try to turn immediately. Watch for the item that doesn't move EXACTLY with the other items. GL HTH Hag

So you like running 75 or 80 too. Good to hear. I make a lot of road trips and try to end them as quickly as possible. Within reason anyway. At least thats how this old man drives.

I was able to get it checked this morning. The steering box needed to be adjusted. It is now back to the normal feel and response to input. The track bar and steering shaft appear good at this time. Thank you for the recommendations and info to help get this resolved.

I just ordered some 75-90 for the front and 75-110 for the rear from amsoil. $20 for preferred customer gets you a good discount and order over $100 is free shipping. I also put on a magtech cover in the rear that holds like 8qts. I probably have 50 or so thousand miles on it (make it like 80 ) , not sure how many years but I know it's over 6 and it still looks new. ((( I just went out and looked when I got the mag cover.... It was in 2010 man time flies, this means I had it on for like 10 years with same oil ))) I've checked the temps with rf gun before and after I put mag cover on and I clearly remember improvement just don't remember actual temperatures. Last few years I haven't really towed anything but my boat. I debated on putting stock cover on to save on fluid but $60 whatever bucks every 6 years (10 lol) is not a huge deal considering oil now still looks good. I check the dipstick once a year and never had more then a dusting on it. Used amsoil in the engine too for few years but then switched to cen-pe-co that's made few hours from me and most Farmers use it in their equipment and sled pulling with good results, it's a parafine based and supposed to be great at high loads. Did few oil analysis and it's as good as amsoil. Where does time go? these gremlins I tell you... ()= Inserted after I realized how long it's been.

I use 75w-90 Amsoil in my 4Runner and truck. The 05 was changed at 50K mile intervals and always looked new. The 18 will get changed a little more often until the warranty is up, then likely the same. The 4Runner was changed at 30K, then at 100K, and just recently at 200K (all odo readings, not intervals) and the used Amsoil lube is always in great shape. The lube with 100K miles on it felt like new lube. The factory fill on my 18 was toast after 15K miles, despite the 20K mile service life. So if you ask me the brand of synthetic does make a huge difference and it’s often with a few extra bucks, especially when you can reduce the services too. I need to do all the fluids in my Jeep and will be using Amsoil 80w-90 only over the 75w-90 because it’s cheaper and the Jeep only gets a few thousand miles a year and doesn’t tow anything. I’ll never have to change it again unless it gets contaminated.