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  1. 9 points
    Pile it on boys, I dont care. After 3 minutes of priming and 5 minutes of on an off starting, SHE IS ALIVE AND PURRING LIKE 24V. Test drive after lunch.
  2. 9 points
    After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally finds a morsel of cheese. Again, as it is well known @Mopar1973Man was the only entity who positively identified the instigating source of this key issue. My entry today is not about alternators...it is about what Daimler/Chrysler did in regard to production of these Cummins powered platforms and the complete disregard of common sense Electronic Engineering. Please note, this applies to automatic and manual transmissions as each platform is plagued in the same manor with different quirks. This Blk/Tan #8 gage wire is quite critical in the scheme of things. It is contained within a 1" plastic conduit passing along the front of the engine. It contains water temp sensor leads, air conditioning leads, alternator/PCM leads and the #6 gage alternator charge line to the PDC. This #8 gage Blk/Tan passes over the top/backend of the alternator and is "eventually" connected to the Auxiliary Battery (passenger side) negative terminal. This snapshot of the Factory Service manual documents "four critical ground leads" that are "spliced" in an unconventional method. This photo depicts the three #18 gage wires and the single #14 gage wire entering the shrink-tubing where the "crush-splice" occurs. This bundle exits the large plastic conduit below the VP44 This again is a most disturbing depiction of the Daimler/Chrysler method of splicing critical ground leads and then routing this across the top of the alternator and "eventually" bringing this to ground reference. This photo depicts where this #8 gage Blk/Tan first connects on the way to "eventual" ground...yes this is the Auxiliary Battery tray connector. Please note: it is spliced again and joins the PCM circuit board grounds...which are critical in their own nature...and "eventually" terminate at the negative post of the Auxiliary Battery's negative terminal. This photo is very interesting, it is the Factory Service manual and the assembly line documentation follows this as a road map in the matrix during production. Please NOTE the title "NAME" to each battery...I looked at this for a considerable amount of time before I realized the assembly line coordinators tried to work with the documentation from the Engineering Staff to "make it as it looks"...Could this single oversight be the reason of a four foot ten inch critical ground wire combination traveling the distance to "EVENTUALLY" terminate at ground? From a basic engineering standpoint regarding ground...you "NEVER CHOOSE THE PATH OF EVENTUAL GROUND" !!! It is to be the shortest and most concise connection in reference to ground...this is biblical in ALL ELECTRONICS...including pickup trucks. ! Here is the Factory Service manual documenting the PCM circuit board reference ground starting as a pair of #14 gage wires being spliced into a #10 gage bundle and arriving at the Auxiliary Battery through another connector that joins a #8 gage wire that is "splice-joined" under plastic conduit in a Y configuration joining the rouge #8 gage "after passing over the alternator" traversing the entire engine compartment from the driver side of the vehicle. Seriously I have been drinking excessively, most recently, due to the nature of this blatant discovery. This is the hidden Y splice at the Auxiliary Battery where the "mess" EVENTUALLY terminates for ground reference. This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location It took a little research to find the size and proper thread-pitch. Metric M5 with a 5/16" hex head is perfect This is where you apply a fresh "quality" #6 gage ground and terminate this at the Main Battery negative post on the drivers side for absolute ground reference for the VP44 and ECM This is a very short and concise reference to ground. This is the corrected procedure for a rather critical ground. The two largest wires originally contained within the 1 inch conduit are no longer present and located well away from the alternator. My alternator B+ "charge" line is now a #4 gage line directly connected to the Auxiliary Battery and when my new battery terminals arrive and they are secured, I'll provide photos of a completed Master Power Supply System within this engine bay. With these corrections, I would hypothesize that a poor ripple specification on a given alternator would be overcome by the immense capacitance of the parallel batteries and would become less prone to causing the dreaded TC lock/unlock for automatics and cruise-control abnormalities for the manual transmission platforms. The #8 gage Blk/Tan passing over the alternator as an "EVENTUAL" ground is gone...the PCM, ECM, VP44 and the PDC are now grounded in accordance of standard Electronic Engineering practices. Respectfully W-T
  3. 8 points
    These were the lights I used : YITAMOTOR LED Light Bar 2PCS 18W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6TNWHW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I used existing holes where the hood meets the grill to mount them. Ran wiring through the stiffener channels on the underside of the hood. Brought the wires into the existing light enclosure and soldered them to the contacts for the factory bulb. The factory switch inside the bulb housing turns them on and off. the only issue with them is clearance to close the hood. The lights have to be rotated down parallel to the grill to close the hood, but it's super easy to do. The brackets they come with pivot.
  4. 6 points
  5. 6 points
    Finally got the bumper painted and installed. Got sidetracked with a nasty oil leak from the tappet cover that i couldn't deal with any longer. Ill get better pics tomorrow. For those interested ill be posting rough measurements of build soon.
  6. 6 points
    I don't know you that well, so I would never treat you like others do. When you are done, are you going to put the roof back on the chicken house? - John
  7. 5 points

    Type: Raffle

    COMPLETED

    • 1 Prize
    • 28 Participants

    It has been a few month since we have given anyone a chance to win something so Mopar1973man.com is raffling off a set of Diesel Auto Power injectors of your choosing up to 7 x .010's in size! Get your $5 ticket now for a chance to win. The more tickets you buy the better your odds are. We will draw one winner on 5/16/19 at 8 pm MT. You can choose either 12V injectors up to 7 x .010's or 150 HP over stock or 24v up to 7 x .010's or 150hp from Diesel Auto Power and we will have them drop shipped to you. Thanks to DAP for working with us on this raffle!
  8. 5 points
    You know when you're old... Doing taxes today and getting on some websites I only get on once a year. Security question , What was my first car? (Answer) Rambler Does date myself?
  9. 5 points
    After the reflash and install of your corrected tunes the truck runs like a dream not smokey and gets up and goes. Huge thanks to @Mopar1973Man @Dieselfuture @Me78569 and @kzimmerfor helping get all this straight it was a long hard battle but we came out on top! This is by far the best forum for 24v info specs and general knowledge. Next up is the fuel pressure sensor install and a brakes on all 4 corners again fellas thank you. thank you. thank you I can't say it enough
  10. 5 points
    Ok I know several members have done this mod and said it was easy. It sure is easy. It takes about 2 hours from start to finish to complete this project. You'll need the terminal lugs and the metric bolt that @W-T specifies in his article. First thing disconnect your batteries. I unhooked the two negative leads. You need to gain access to the loom going across the front of the engine. So you'll need to remove the upper alternator bracket and the the two loom holders on the front of the block. I did this during my coolant flush project so my upper hose and thermostat are removed. If you have my crankcase vent that will need to be removed as well. Now I started at the battery and the alternator and started unhooking the wiring from these devices bring it forward. Now you start working on getting the split loom off the wiring. Start at the tape with a small exacto knife or razor blade and carefully split the tape to release the plastic split loom cover. Carefully remove it. I found out mine was brittle after all the years of engine heat. Once you remove all that slpit loom you can again split the spiral tape holding the loom together. Now you show be able to have both the ground lead and the alternator charge lead loose now. I will admit the alternator lead took a bit of work to release at the knot of tape on mine where it breaks out of the loom heading for the PDC. Just take your time with your razor blade and your get it released. You can clearly see the splice of the ground just like @W-T mentions in his article. Once you get the alternator lead out in one piece. Then the ground lead I used a pair of wire dikes and cut the ground right at the end of the splice. Now the alternator lead I reused the wire since it was in excellent condition. I mocked up the alternator lead by hooking it back up to the alternator like it should be and gave it a nice loop of slack then cut it to meet the positive battery terminal. On my terminal lugs, I took a hacksaw and scored the plastic collars and peeled them off for soldering. Then slipped the lug on and used a propane torch with the low flame and soldered the lugs right on to the wire. Good sold weld and this will seal the wire from future rot from battery acid and vapors. This is the completed alternator connection now. All I did was grab an old nut and stacked on the battery terminal. Now we are going to do the ground side. Now trim back the old splice and free the ends of the wires. Now strip back the wire so you can fit the wires into a lug. Again I did the same thing I took the hacksaw scored the plastic collar and peeled it off the lug and then slipped it on the wires and prepped it for soldering. Again just slipped the lug on the wires and low flame with a propane torch I soldered the lug to the wires. Now I cut the old plug off the splice on the passenger side ground and then trimmed the length of the wire with the plug so it would reach between the driver side battery and the gear case. Same again I peeled the plastic collar and slipped the lugs on and soldered with low flame propane torch. This gives you an idea where the wires go. Take your metric bolt and attach the ground wires to the case. Then the ground cable to the negative battery terminal on the driver side. Beyond this is just clean up. Now you need to tape up your loom again. I'm going to replace my split loom with smaller size being the old loom was brittle and was breaking during removal. The only thing that should run across the front of the engine now should be ECT sensor which is a twisted pair. The A/C compressor, A/C high pressure switch and the alternator field lead. Before AC noise level was 0.038 AC volts now after the mod its dropped to 0.015 AC volts (or 15mV AC). Addon: Protection fuse or fusible link Some members are suggesting to install a fusible link or fuse of the same size at 140 Amps on the charge lead as a protection method. Just in case for some reason the diode bridge happens to short the positive side to ground and doesn't start an engine fire. As for the size of the fusible link is still unknown as of yet. Factory is 140 amp fuse. The fusible link would be better suited than a fuse.
  11. 4 points
    Truck got backed into last year by a 5th wheel camper. Decided to upgrade the battering ram with a pre bent, pre cut kit from Hardcore Off-road.
  12. 4 points
    Just wanted to give you all a quick update on my truck. Got the new injectors from WiscoRedkneck, and they worked like a charm. Truck runs alot better also. Down on power obviously because of stock injectors, but it drives much, much smoother. Also starting is a dream, I barely hit the key and it lights off. Hasn't sputtered much either, just small amounts. I'm starting to think the old 150s were going out in it and it wasn't running like it should have. Still getting them rebuilt in the future, but for now I'm rolling stockish. Can't wait until my hx35 comes in finally.
  13. 4 points
    Usually threads aren't off topic till Mike posts a picture of one of his girlfriends.
  14. 4 points
  15. 4 points
    These rims and tires waight over 400lb I man handled them, actually I made the rims too. I still got around 10mpg on this truck running about 60-65mph with 454 BBC 500hp. I did have 6.72 gears
  16. 4 points
    Here I am working on it while my girlfriend watches. My next car was a new 1970 Volvo 142S which cost $2850 pulse tax and license.
  17. 4 points
    Nice to be back home. Wow! what an adventure. I can say living in the rim area of big cities you might not have to travel far or get fuel often being the distance is shorter but MPG sure sucks. For that week of being in Parma, ID and running back and forth to Ontario I barely made 16.61 MPG. Ugh! I'm getting back on track and be rolling from home from here on out. As for the flooded area, it's like a bad dream it all vanished like it never happened. The mudslides you can see the mud and debris around the edge of the road. Then the belly washes are still present for the smaller one. The river flows are down for both Weiser River and Little Salmon River. Like this morning it's raining again. I'm going to keep an eye on the weather forecast and what I see in the rivers again. It is so nice to be back home.
  18. 4 points
    This was one of my toys with 2.5 ton Rockwell axles. I know it's a bit different from what we have but I never had any water mixing with oil.
  19. 4 points
    We kid because we care... or is it, we kid because we can. I can never keep that one straight.
  20. 4 points
    If you get a head done by @dripley does that make it a Chicken Head?
  21. 4 points
    Your lucky... Dripley gets the blisters as usual, but looses all his feathers so neighbors are out with yard blowers.
  22. 4 points
    Dodge/Cummins ECU (1998.5 - 2002 ISB) ECU Hardware There are 2 computers on the Ram. One on the passenger side firewall behind the air cleaner assembly (the Powertrain Control Module, or PCM), and the ECU, which is located on the left side of the engine, mounted directly on the engine block. The ECU is connected with a single 50-pin connector. The ECU itself is a sealed unit, with a single air vent device. It is constructed of an aluminum 'frame', or center section, that has the mounting tabs to fasten it to the engine, and a sheet aluminum 'cover', that isn't really a cover at all - the flexible plastic 'circuit board' is adhered directly to the inside of this 'cover', on both sides. There is gray silicone sealer between the 'cover' and the 'frame'. To open the ECU, one must remove the screws, and carefully pry the cover open. You must be sure to keep the cover straight and don't bend it, as the flexible circuit board is adhered directly to the inside of it. The side of the ECU with the electrical connector seems to contain power supply and other power-switching components (driver transistors, etc). I do not know if there are any ICs on this side, because I did not open mine up on that side (and at this point, I do not really want to). The other side contains the 'computer' components (processor, memory, etc) as shown below: Most of the ICs inside are standard components. There are several unidentified components: 8L12A: 8-pin IC. Possibly 12V voltage regulator for flash programming? Phillips IC, marked '4651148 005633-- Fhr011B'. Maybe analog MUX for ADC inputs? Atmel IC, marled 'ENCORE 51R42722U02 82002253-001 A9D0013 9951'. I have no idea what this is for, it looks like an ASIC. 8-pin IC marked '74690 XAVS' 8-pin IC marked '3029009 1951130'. Near the filter choke. CAN bus driver? The ECU only uses 256KB of flash, even if the installed chip is larger. The original ECU I opened had a 512KB chip (28F400). I later obtained another ECU, and discovered it had a 256KB chip (28F200). These flash chips are organized into a 16KB boot block, 2 8KB parameter blocks, and the remaining blocks are regular data blocks. The parameter blocks can sustain many more read/write cycles than the other blocks on the chip. There is 64k of RAM available, in the 2 32Kx8 SRAM chips. The memory is organized as follows: 0x000000 - 0x3FFFFF: Flash. The first 16k (0x000000 - 0x004000) is the 'boot' part of the flash chip. 0x800000 - 0x80FFFF: RAM 0xFFD000 - 0xFFD7FF: Some unknown peripheral device. Perhaps the Atmel chip? 0xFFD800 - 0xFFDFFF: Intel CAN Controller 0xFFE000 - 0xFFEFFF: TPURAM (Refer to the MC68336 manual) 0xFFF000 - 0xFFFFFF: MC68336 internal functions/integrated peripherals Software Using a BDM interface cable and driver, I wrote a program that would dump the contents of the flash chip to a file for inspection. This was difficult because every so often during the data transfer, an error would occur. I solved this problem by only reading 2KB at a time. I later found out that this read error was occurring because of a 'watchdog timer' in the ECU hardware was attempting to assert RESET while I was reading the data (because when reading through the BDM port, the CPU is stopped). Once I modified the program to do 2KB reads I was able to get a successful read of the data. I used GNU objdump to create an assembler listing of the file. I have spent many hours 'picking apart' the program to figure out what each section is for, how the peripherals of the MC68336 are configured/used, etc. There is a compressed program in the lower 16K (boot block) that gets decompressed into RAM at startup, only if certain conditions are met. This is probably a small program that is only good for reading the CAN bus, so that the flash can be reprogrammed. I have not spent much time examining this program. The VIN of the vehicle is embedded in data around 0x4000, and again around 0x8000. There is also a 'signature' around 0x8000 that is checked at startup, and if it is valid, an address is read from location 0x800a and execution of the 'main' startup code continues at that address. There is a considerable amount of data that gets moved from the end of the flash data into RAM at startup. In this example, the data begins at 0x3829e and ends at 0x3fee7. That is approx. 32KB of data. At this time, I have only been able to identify the startup code, where the various components are initialized and addresses are set up, and parts of the program that read/write the CAN messages. The following things need to be done: Identify the CAN messages themselves, the message contents, and what they mean. Identify which inputs connect to where (temp sensors, MAP, APPS, etc). Identify the other outputs and what ports they are located (Wait to start lamp, VP44 relay, fuel pump relay, intake heaters, etc.) Determine how the flash can be programmed by methods other than desoldering the chip from the board Identify the remaining program sections, and their assocaited data (the 'maps') It would probably be useful to build a CAN interface for my PC, and 'watch' the data on the CAN bus while the engine is in operation. This might yield some information that can be used to identify more of the program. Other information It appears that the ECU itself was designed (and possibly manufactured) by Motorola. The ECU software, is unknown. There is no copyright message or any other identifying information in the dump of the flash memory, except the VIN number and the string '091197'. I do not know what language the program was originally written in, probably C, I really don't think something that large would be written in assembly language. Why? Because it is my truck, my ECU, my flash memory chip, etc. and I have a right to know how it works. And I also have the right to do what I want with it, whether that be drive it, or take the ECU out, sprinkle cheddar cheese on it and bake it in the oven, etc. I think people should be able to understand, and repair if necessary, anything that they own, whether it be a computer, a car, a dishwasher, or a bike.
  23. 4 points
    I just got done rebuilding the front drive shaft. Rather easy task and the parts are easy to common by even to rebuild the cardan joint ball. Also forgive me I got the camera lens greasy on my phone. Before you break down the double cardan joint mark it so you get it back together the same way. I used a file a scratch a line across all the pieces. It hard to see but there is a line across the left joint cap, the middle joint and the rear joint cap. Now using my Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press I'm simple driving the cap out the other side and disassembling the double cardan joint from the flange end working towards the shaft. When you take it all apart now check your centering ball and bearing. Mine was in sad shape. As you'll see all the needle bearing fell out (ashtray) and no grease was left. So I made a cal to the local NAPA store and they had the centering ball in stock bit pricey at $80 but I needed. It made by SKF and part number is UJ617. Now you need to clean up your old end remove all the grease and dirt. I piled up a good goob of grease in the bottom before installing the ball. Now using a socket to drive the ball into the joint end. Now drive your seal in place with the same socket just do it very light tapping with your hammer or small ball peen. Now the grease should of been shoved into the needle bearings. You notice there is a small hole for the grease to ooze out the bottom and filled the needle bearings. Now start to assemble your u-joint is the shaft. Again using a Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press which is awesome because you'll never have to strike the drive shaft with a hammer or worry about needle bearing to falling over. Now during this process the first cap I will drive too far to the other side but not out of the yoke. This is to push the cross over to the other side a bit more so when you place your other cap it already started on the cross arm and less risk of the needle bearing falling out. before driving it in place your clip on the first cap. Now I did things a bit different and assembled my last joint in the rear flange. What you have to do is place your spring in the shaft with a bit a of grease to hold it. Then tilt the ball just enough to so you can start the cross of the u-joint and the centering ball at the same time. Be patient there is enough room and it will go in. Finished product... So when you are done it should move in all directions freely without binding. Make sure to grease all your joint before installing the shaft. For the front joint I just used the vise and pump grease till the red was seen in all ends. Now install the front driveshaft... What a double cardan joint looks like moving...
  24. 3 points
    Pop pressure of Injectors When you look at a 24V Cummins fuel injector and look at how it's designed and how it functions. The injector pintle is held shut by spring pressure. For stock injector, you need 310 bar (4,500 PSI) to make the injector open and release fuel into the cylinder. Now the bottom limit is 293 bar (4,250 PSI) below this point the automation gets poor and there is more smoke because the fuel can't be heated enough to get vapor to go BANG! As injectors start getting lower pop pressure they do flow more fuel but the droplets start getting larger. This typically creates more black smoke as well as increased fuel flow. Net problem is daily drivers end up suffering from lower MPG's from poor spray pattern or too large of droplets. How to detect low pop pressure Low pop pressure can be detected by engine load and RPM. You'll need a live data tool like an OBDLink LX or similar. Now at idle the engine load typically is in the 5% to 10% range for most injectors to hold an idle at 800 RPM's. It going to dance up and down in engine load at idle this is normal the ECM is constant commanding different values of fuel to hold the RPM as steady as possible. When pop pressure falls too low the idle RPM starts to rise. This is due to the fact it takes less pressure to lift the pintle with low pop pressure so the injection event starts a bit early and ends later. This means there is more duration of time the injector is open which will increased fuel flow at an idle state. The engine will attempt to hold the RPM at 800 RPM but when the engine load gets below about 5% it can no longer defuel anymore. The result is that the idle RPM's rise. If you seeing your hot engine idle RPM in neutral (or park) is rising above 800 RPM and never drops to 800 RPM then your injector pop pressure is most like gone too low. Why did I write this article? I see it time and time again where people make the comment of having injectors that are 100k miles and more. Claiming the engine is still running good and no issues. This is not true. Injectors will degrade over mileage. Like my stock OEM injectors worked great even with 150k miles. MPG was little off but ran great. Sent my stock injectors to Diesel Auto Power and had them tested on average they were 260 bar (3,770 PSI) over 30 bar below the minimum requirement. Even though the injectors ran fine they were worn out. Do not assume just because injectors still idle and run fine that there is nothing wrong. Pop testing I highly suggest pop testing your injectors every 100k miles I'm going to bet that 90% of them will not make the bottom limit of 293 bar. Most would rather opt for just replacing the injectors with new ones. Pop Pressures Be aware most custom built injectors are popped lower in the 300 to 305 bar range to enhance the flow of fuel. This also means the injector life span will be shortened as its only 7 to 12 bar left before it starts dropping below the minimum 293 bar range. Some members have come forward and alerted me that in a mere 28k miles have lost up to 20 bar as injectors settle and break in. This where you can monitor your engine load and idle RPM and see if the injectors and dropping out too low. Enhanced Pop pressures (Experimental) Some of the members here have made the choice of going up on pop pressures. This will enhance the atomization of the injector and increase MPG for most cases. The downside does reduce the flow rate of the injector being that the pintle lifts open later and drops close early. The flow is shortened but the spray atomization is much improved even for larger injectors. As for how much to increase the pop pressure is not known as of yet. I can say that some members have experimented with higher pop pressures above 330 bar and cold starting in cold climates was nearly impossible or not at all. The upper limit from the Dodge FSM states 327 bar. Injector Data and Pop Pressures I welcome other members data to compile a list of injectors, pop pressures, and manufacture data so we can get a better grasp of what works well. 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar Diesel Auto Power Injectors - So far with winter temperatures down to near zero I've not had any issues with starting. Engine load was about 13% when the injectors were new.
  25. 3 points
    I have a smaller tool box that I filled with random tools I had laying around, been in the truck for about 4 years now, used it few times and it was never for myself. Not saying that one day I won't need it, in fact the reason I put it in the back in the first place is because I was in the pinch one time and it would have been nice to have tools and tire plugs, along with an air compressor. Oh well others can benefit from it for now, maybe someday it will come in handy, but I hope not. Best thing to do is preventive maintenance and check things thoroughly every so often, then that leaves you big items like vp, water pump, alternator, any pulley that is spinning...etc. you just can't have enough parts to drive around with. But a basic tool kit that is nice to have for peace of mind, it's just where do you draw the line what to carry on board. Guns and cash will solve most of the problems
  26. 3 points
    I haven't known what free time was for the last 3 years ever since we moved to a different town and I'm still driving to same job. Everyone saying get a job closer but it's not as easy as they think. I moved up the ladder for the last 10 years, having benefits and accumulated time off is a big plus, probably the only thing holding me back at this moment and a bigger paycheck of course. Start somewhere else then start over basically, especially time off no one is giving it away. So I'd rather drive to my old job for now, although I waste 12 hours a day just to go to work. I know other people that have a worse than me so I don't complain much about it, I do mention it once in awhile as we're all human and wante decent life. Good thing you're getting random jobs to stay busy, that may actually help you keep your mind off other things temporary. I wish there was a simple answer to all this, Lottery maybe, but you need to play to win. I played for a while then I gave it up, since that I wasn't meant to have an easy way out. Everything I acquire is through blood and sweat seems like. I know they say work smarter not harder, I don't think I'm that dumb, I think it more has to do with being at the right place at the right time. I say this all the time, I'd rather be lucky then smart.
  27. 3 points
    I get ringht at 11.5 out of mine running the interstates aroind 65 mph . Grossing right at 23k like this.
  28. 3 points
    The funniest part of this story is probably all them teardrops people you were paranoid about, took off running when they heard that. Bam... Oh shi. ... drive by, take cover...
  29. 3 points
    @Dieselfuture is right on the mark. With Dieselfuture... Quadzilla Adrenaline 7 x 0.010 Injectors @ 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 4 Inch exhaust BHAF 13.68 MPG towing my RV - 31 foot Jayco Eagle @ 8,000 pounds. 21.32 MPG running empty Making roughly 500 HP to the ground.
  30. 3 points
    No, most of what I use is of my own design. I use my own separator plates (laser cut specifically for me), and the hydraulics and pressure control are of my own design as well. I do use an off-the-shelf manual valve, and the PR setup is similar in design to one of the "box kits", but most of it is my own design, and the calibrations certainly are my own.
  31. 3 points
    Hey all! I've already made a few posts, but it's never too late to introduce myself, methinks. I've been successfully breathing consecutively now for 22 years, and somehow figured that the right way to go in life was to become a mechanic, specializing on construction equipment, like wheel loaders and such. I wanted a 2nd gen Dodge for years, but couldn't allow myself to get one due to Northern rural Norway being a crappy place to commute in, hills, turns and stuff, but I started my own company two years ago, and finally, about six months back, I sold off my 2014 Nissan Navara D40 and bought a 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Sport (with an R/T badge in the grille), a Canadian import with a odometer in KM's and a speedo where the main dial is also in KM/H, woo! It's done about 191k miles, but runs like a clock. This is the list of things I did to it at 174mi, right after buying it: New VP44, new steering box, BD Power's Steering box stabilizer, rebuilt the gearbox with new clutches and friction bands, flushed and cleaned out the trans cooler+lines, BD Power SuperB turbo, BD Power +100 Injectors, uprated single disk billet converter and a AirDog Raptor 150 lift pump and a Smarty S03, previous owner did the wheel bearings on all four corners, all new brakes in the rear, brand spankin' new propshafts and track bars. The result is a 19 year old truck, feeling very tight and nice, the steering is ACTUALLY precise, unlike my dads Econoline 350, where you have to do a lot of steering to go in a straight line. It's currently sat on some nasty stock chrome rims, with studded tires wrapped around them, but there's some 35s and 18" rims headed its way to improve the looks a bit. I don't take too much pictures, so there's just the one to choose from at the moment, I'll snag a few tomorrow when I'm out and about in the daylight. Also, if anyone could shed some light on the "R/T" badge in the nose, I'd love to hear it. I thought that was a Dodge Charger thing. **EDIT** Nevermind the R/T thing, I did a really quick google and found that it's most likely just the badge that someone's put there at some point for laughs or looks.
  32. 3 points
    Transmission core charge is technically $1200; $1000 for the transmission, and $200 for the freight container. Sound expensive? Remember, I don't want your core money, I want your CORE back so I can build it for the next guy! Having said that, I generally don't charge for the core on most deals. I'm kind of old school, where if you verbally tell me that you're going to send my core back, I trust you. The only ones who win by me charging your card $1200, only to refund it 2 weeks later is the bank. And the one who loses on that deal? Me... So far, I have not had any issues with transmission cores. Now converters and valve bodies? Different story... Those always get a core charge. The Stage 2 uses the stock 3.8 band lever, the Stage 3 uses a TCS 4.2 lever.
  33. 3 points
    Keep it simple. Doing an adjustment is a lot easier than doing a lot of rewiring. If that doesn't work you might try this.
  34. 3 points
    I think I am going to let 500k be my million. Should be able to make that just before I retire. I did clean up the valve cover and took a sander to the brushed aluminum portions and then shot a coat of clear matt finish on it.
  35. 3 points
    2 reasons. One, i made the better part of 464k miles with it looking like this so I figured whats a couple hundred more. Plus the head looks pretty much like the block. I did however polish all the heads of the head bolts, bet you missed that. Two, I did buy some high heat ceramic based paint. Guess I should have read the instructions. It required 3 different bakes in the oven at different temps with cooling cycles. Everything was too big for the wifes oven. So it just went back on as it came off. I did paint the tappet cover with the paint but it would not fit either. I noticed when I was fitting the new gasket that it was scrapping the paint off. Thats my story and I'm stickin to it.
  36. 3 points
  37. 3 points
    You might want to look into a headlight relay harness that draws the headlight current from your battery’s and not the switch, although the trailer wiring has its own relay and fuses it should not effect your headlight switch at all the way I understand it. I installed the dual sportheadlight relay harness when I upgraded headlights, not becomes I had issues with headlight switch getting hot but it was more to the fact I was doubling the draw on the factory headlight switch with the new dual headlights, in which probably would have caused the switch to overheat and melt. another thing to consider if your switch is getting hot is to not use the dimmer as in the more it’s dimmed it creates more resistance thus creating the heat, also a dirty switch, oily gunk and whatever else is on it can lead to excessive heat.
  38. 3 points
    Hooked up to the trailer today and my wiring job is good. Thanks for all the help for the electrically challenged.
  39. 3 points
    Btw some may call me a hoarder for taking their old junk but hey the right "thing" that is someone's junk can usually be repurposed or rebuilt and maybe save my butt or someone else's so cheers to being a "hoarder" lol.
  40. 3 points
    Rather than spending ~$600 on head studs, you should sell the s03 and put $400 of the $600 that you would spend on the studs to a quadzilla. 3x the power and you can tune timing to not blow the head off.
  41. 3 points
    That's a much higher torque than I understand it to be on the stock bolts. I think it's closer to 110lb/ft. Based on stud vs bolt, and the application procedure the ARP's will be tighter at 125 than OEM bolts at 125. The ARP's will also stretch less for the same amount of cylinder pressure, which is why they can hold more.
  42. 3 points
    Just to be safe check your valve lash soon. You're using used set and your pushrods, things will wear in a little and settle down. My new ones did.
  43. 3 points
    Everything has been fine since the the valve bridge was fixed. Went on 275 mile trip up the mountain to Ashville NC. Found a coolant leak where the heater return pipe goes into the block. Think the 17.5 year old 2.5" long heater hose finally gave out. Gave the coolant system a really good flush and refill along with a fresh oil change. All is running hot straight and normal. I hope I thanked everyone for their input. I value all the help greatly. So a big thanks to all of you.
  44. 3 points
    I have a temperature gauge mounted in my dash for monitoring both my manual transmission and rear differential. I ran a thermocouple on my stock Dana 80 cover and then a year or so later on my Mag-Hytec differential cover. I towed heavy during the winter and triple digit summer heat, and my findings were more than enough to let me know that I made the right choice by putting a Mag-Hytec differential cover on my truck. Gale Banks and his BS marketing video's can shove it...
  45. 3 points
    You will never pull one out with a magnet unless it's about to fall out, I had a 12 valve and the pin was halfway out, I still couldn't move it with pliers or by hand, it took a punch and a hammer to drive it back home and then I tabbed it. Like guys mentioned above, if your case is stepped just don't worry about it.
  46. 3 points
    Well there is a 98 24v in my area that just had his joint connection 2 burn up. That makes 2 total failures in the last few months also I have one here off a parts truck that got hot enough to blacken the plastic and have looked at a few others when I was shopping for my new harness that were the same. Im starting to see a pattern here that I'm not liking. Wonder If the early 24v are going to start having issues you all might want to pull the pdc off at the bottom and inspect joint connection 2 for signs of melting plastic.
  47. 3 points
    I seen @JAG1 sneaking around looking for something to do, may want to check down the intake pipe. No advanced payments, or he'll never leave the front seat. Good one, feel the love coming your way @dripley
  48. 3 points
    Be careful with the hugging...too much of that and you're looking at a sexual harassment suit. You did a good job...I'm gonna drop my truck off at your house with a 12 pack in the front seat when my head gasket goes. I'll pick it back up in a week...
  49. 3 points
    A painful lesion for sure. I've been a mechanic for 49 years and married for 43 and to this day I don't wear a wedding ring or any other jeweler for that very reason.
  50. 3 points
    I think they're full of it, there is ho, so and some industrial stuff, if it runs good I wouldn't change pump. Have you checked for boost leaks yet, the entire system.
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