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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Awesome news. My right kidney is healing. Ultra sound shows is not as swollen and there is hope. No surgery required today.
  2. 11 points
    Mike, Truly my pleasure! You do more for people with no expectation of anything in return than 99% of the people on this planet. I have not always been in a position to financially help others in my life but I am currently blessed enough to do so and helping someone like you is a given in my world. I talked with others here after I spoke to the machine shop and I think others would like to participate in helping you in a tight/tough time. I don't see you as one looking for handouts but maybe we could set something up on the website for others who feel as I do about you and the value of the site. I wish I could have paid that whole bill for you, you always answer with Grace my dumbest of questions and have helped me and I am sure many others here through the simple and tough questions. I ask all members that Mike has helped save $20-$1000'S to pay it forward. Many small contributions will make a BIG difference. Mike I ask that you recommend that machine shop to any and everyone in your area!! Great group of guys to help me. If I need a head rebuilt I might just ship it to them. Happy to be able to help a man who has helped me directly and indirectly more than he will ever know. THANK YOU MIKE!! Brian
  3. 10 points
    Hey folks, I haven't posted in a while but i've been around tinkering with 2 out of the 3 2nd gen 24v's that I have. My latest project I've been working on is my red 2001 sport truck I thought I'd share. I got the truck a few months ago and immediately began tearing it apart once I got it to the house. The interior was disgusting and falling apart, typical broken dash, it rattled, there was mold growing on the carpet and it even had maggots under some old food. Here's the progress so far. Torn apart within the first 24 hours of owning it The absolutely disgusting old carpet, I was afraid to even touch it without gloves.. How it turned out after scrubbing it and using a house carpet extractor with the hand hose, went over it twice Got the carpet back in, did a slightly darker dye to get rid of the orange discoloration from the coolant dripping onto the passenger side, This was gone over twice and then I hit the passenger floor for a third time while it was in the truck so it's still slightly damp so it's a little bit darker right now. Put some of the interior back in after a vacuuming as much as I could, the back seat looks brand new! Time to work on the old cracked dashboard! The whole dash frame got taken out, stripped, wiped down of any dirt because i'm very meticulous. If I'm going to work on something, I figure might as well do it right the first time. The LMC dash fit perfectly with no issues at all. At this point in time I figured I was already this close to the HVAC box, I might as well pull it out and clean it! If you look at the blend door at the top right, the foam had mold growing on it, no thank you! More dirt, going to have to clean that! Well, I sure was glad I decided to remove the HVAC box, Leaky heater core, dirty evaporator, bad blower motor, and a crumpling blower motor resistor. Yikes! The entire HVAC box got taken apart, cleaned from top to bottom, and reassembled with all new everything! I even went ahead and pulled off all the old foam and put on a new sealer where the old foam was falling apart. Now that the firewall is cleaned up, time for the HVAC box install. Boom! Put in place and ready to go. Remember the old moldy foam from earlier? All gone, and seals perfectly! The midnight grind, literally... By the morning I had everything put back in and was ready to go. All that work and the dash bezel was still cracked, well, until I FINALLY found a wood grain bezel in 100% perfect condition with no scratches or broken tabs! Out with the old, in with the new! The steering wheel bugged me though so I ended up getting a cover for it. As of last night, I believe she's probably the the truck with the nicest interior. Just need to find some power seats and some agate wood door panels. Maybe do a new steering wheel and definitely need to get a 12v outlet that clips into place nicely. Every piece of the interior got pulled out and cleaned, the cup holders got disassembled and cleaned, including the rear one under the console. This interior is immaculate now. Here's a little bonus for sticking around this long. I also did the 4th gen steering upgrade, as well as a Dodge Off Road Track bar and a steering stabilizer. Big difference coming from the stock setup, Once I got all of it in and took it for a test drive, my power steering was leaking and my water pump went out. That's actually coolant dripping on the ground in the last picture but since then has all been fixed! The wife will be a happy camper driving this until I sell my 99'. Thanks for taking a look! It was a lot of work but I don't regret a single moment of it and will do it again in a heartbeat with the way it turned out.
  4. 9 points
    Pile it on boys, I dont care. After 3 minutes of priming and 5 minutes of on an off starting, SHE IS ALIVE AND PURRING LIKE 24V. Test drive after lunch.
  5. 9 points
    I would like to say thank you to all of you for the prayers. As for this morning, a wonderful gent started talking to both MoparMom and I. The conversation continued and I finally gave up and told them what is happening to both of us. Being MoparMom on dialysis and me with bladder cancer. He admitted that he is not a priest but asked if he could pray for both of us. I said "yes". We all gathered in a circle in the restaurant and he proceeded to prayer for both us on the spot. Then conversation continued after the prayers and then he took our bill and paid it. Wow! What an awesome morning from a total stranger.
  6. 9 points
    (With a Mad Scientist voice) It's alive! It runs once again! I'm quite amazed. I got it started and left it idle while I picked up a few things then kicked it out the door to warm up more as I clean up a bit more stuff. Then I took off down the road riding easy on it till it warmed up and the thermostat opened and cycled once. I knew it needed to burp once. After that, I gave it a few good stabs at the throttle and it pulls like a scalded ape. Nothing long but something to create EGT's a bit. After about 5 miles I stopped and check for leaks or any issues. None to be found. Continued down canyon for another 5 miles. Pulled off again checking for any leaks or any issues. Still nothing. Cruise on back home and sun is just going down and with my flashlight, I caught a glance at my breather pipe the blow by is greatly reduced. The vapor comes out the end of the pipe like steam off a hot cup of coffee in the morning. I'm leaving the beast outside to chill tonight so I can see the start up and what the smoke if any.
  7. 9 points
    Well first off I've got to Thank a forum member... But first the story... After going back and forth with it not going to be ready today to being ready at 3:30pm. I finally got ahold of MoparMom and told her we'll be going after the head when she is done with dialysis treatment. After an one hour drive to the shop. I'm greeted by Justin telling me... "Whatever your doing and the friends you have you better keep doing what you are doing." I'm very puzzled to this comment. Justin tosses the invoice on the counter and sure enough one of the members here made a payment on my bill. That member happens to be @portlandareae28 . It shocked the heck out of me. The comment I heard from Justin that Portlandareae28 has been very pleased with the help I've given him and he wanted to return the favor. Sir, you are a saint thank you from the bottom of my heart. 18 Valve guides 24 Valve seals Pressure test Resurfaced deck My Total $871.25
  8. 8 points
    These were the lights I used : YITAMOTOR LED Light Bar 2PCS 18W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6TNWHW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I used existing holes where the hood meets the grill to mount them. Ran wiring through the stiffener channels on the underside of the hood. Brought the wires into the existing light enclosure and soldered them to the contacts for the factory bulb. The factory switch inside the bulb housing turns them on and off. the only issue with them is clearance to close the hood. The lights have to be rotated down parallel to the grill to close the hood, but it's super easy to do. The brackets they come with pivot.
  9. 8 points
    My current favorite modification. sure compounds and 4th gen mirrors are nice, but literally everyone who gets in the pickup notices this one.
  10. 8 points
    I made out the other side gang. I'm still alive.
  11. 8 points
  12. 8 points
    In 1973 I had a Volvo blow an engine in Greenwood, Delaware. I got it over to my grandfathers processing plant's work shop where I was able to install a used engine that I acquired in Seekonk, Massachusetts. When I was done I put the junk engine into the trunk with my tools and headed back that night north to Cumberland, Rhode Island. That morning I watched the sun rise over Scarsdale, New York and headed on to the Connecticut Turnpike. Now it's just after 6 AM and everything had been going fine, 55MPH (the max speed limit) and putting down miles when there's a bang and blue smoke out the back. "Dam" I'm thinking "not another engine". I roll the car on to the brake down lane and get out to take a look. Lift the hood and look around, you could see the engines back then, and heck nothing looks bad. I pull the dip stick and no oil: look under the car and find that someone forgot to tighten the oil drain plug. It's not there. About the time I make this discovery I hear a car pull up be hind me. Looking around the hood I see that it's a Connecticut State Trooper. He gets out and I meet him at the back of my Volvo. The Trooper asks "What's the problem?" I tell him "The drain plug fell out of the oil pan". The Trooper asks "where are you going to find an oil plug for that car this time of day?" With out thinking I said "Oh, don't worry. I've got a spare engine in the trunk". The Trooper says "Now I've heard everything. I've heard of people carrying spare tires, spare belts, spare hoses, but I've never seen anyone carry a spare engine". I ask him where the next gas station was since I only had 2 qts. of oil with me and would need 2 more. He tells me there's one at the next exit about a mile up the road and he left. I rolled the old engine on to it's side, got the drain plug out and installed it in the good engine, put in the 2 qts, drove to the gas station added the rest of the oil and made it home.
  13. 8 points
    I will ALWAYS pre-fill an oil filter if possible. Been doing this for decades and will continue to do so too. The whole "you can pour something into the filter by accident and it will get into the oil system" is so implausible that it would be the last thing on my mind. If I'm that slight of mind of whats coming out the new oil bottle then I'd be pouring the same crap into the valve cover fill hole... Why I do this? Well because I prefer not to shove 70 psi of cold oil through a dry filter element. Thats simply asking for the media to tear... Would you know if the media is torn, basically turning the filter into a bypass? Probably not. And because I prefer not to hear 5 seconds of dry valve train while the oil system is filling the filter before maximum pressure is achieved. Especially on engines that are preset to ramp the throttle up upon startup. Sounds painful. The only times I dont pre-fill is if the filter is mounted sideways or is a cartridge type, but I'll make sure to warm the engine a bit before changing in hopes that the oil will pass through a warm block before reaching the pan, and the oil system is basically charged with lube which will offset that first blast of dry RPM's. Nonetheless, it seems we all have our own ways of wrenching.
  14. 7 points
    After getting rear ended by a loser with a suspended license and no insurance I decided it was time for a real rear bumper. I really didn't want to spend $700-1500 for a bumper so I started building my own. It's all 1/4" plate with 1/2" brackets. I got all the metal from Metal Supermarket from their cut table for 0.75 per pound. I still have to cut holes for the back-up lights, weld the bumper to the mounts, and either paint or powder coat it. When this one is finished I will be moving on to the front bumper. I plan to build it in the same style and have a winch mount. If anyone has done something similar i welcome any input, criticism, or advice. This is my first bumper build but I'm pretty happy with the way it is going. Ill post more photos after its comple.
  15. 7 points
    Oh my, it nice to be home. (Whew!) Finally got back to Brian's house yesterday and packed our stuff up and rolled on to get Mom from the dialysis center. I was still hurting for sure but tolerating it knowing the end goal was going to be much better. Amazing evening. I got home and struggled to get everything hauled upstairs. Started doing the normal thing of relaxing in front of the computer and taking care of the website. Happen to spot @IBMobile wife Jennifer on Facebook and for whatever reason, I called her last night. It turned into an extremely long conversation that covered herbal medicines, spiritual life and just life in general. During this conversation, it makes me so grateful for my extended internet family I've created here on the M73M website. I really do appreciate everything everyone is doing to help me through these times with my cancer issues. You all have provided me the strength to keep going through some scary times. I thank all you for just being there for me.
  16. 7 points
    Here is what I think. You're young and have extra money to play with. Doesn't sound like you need this truck to make money with, haul tools to construction site that's easy to get in and out, pull a gooseneck trailer, etc. I was young once and that's exactly what I did, I build fast cars and big trucks. Did it cost money, oh yeah, would I like to get that money back to pay off the house, or put it to better use, yeah. Would I go back and change it all, experience/ knowledge that will come with it, Joy of accomplishing something, all the things you learn along the way and people you meet, no... I would not change that. So I guess the point is, to each their own. Most of us are looking at it this way, been there done that, not really worth it in the long run. You just want something cool, and sounds like to be a part of the whole process. I say go for it, at least when you get older, you'll have something to talk about, look back at it and say yeah I did that. Money is here one day and not hear the next and things change in life so much you never know what will happen. Do good in school and get a good job, then you'll have all the money you need. That of course depends on what you want to become, you can do really well in school and not get a job. But that's whole other subject. I suppose if you got kids and family to support, it would be foolish/ selfish thing to do. If you're single I don't see why not. Just know in the long run it's money down the drain, but then again what would you prefer money or other things. Look at people signatures, a lot of times it'll tell you what works and what doesn't. Not sure if I made any sense
  17. 7 points
    Good luck has come my way. My pathology came back it is NOT muscle invasive cancer. Basically doctor has to go back in a few weeks verify it all gone. Still gotta deal with my right kidney yet. Not sure if it draining properly.
  18. 6 points
    The subject matter has been discussed for years and all diesel enthusiasts/owners know how important it is to maintain proper levels of fuel pressure via the "transfer pump" or Lift Pump for reliable operation. There are many requirements that each owner/operator may wish to achieve in replacing the OE Carter or perhaps making an aftermarket selection. Notably, most have had the rude awakening of a failed VP44 following the failure of the Lift Pump in a too late scenario. The cost of a VP44 compared to the Factory (Carter) Lift Pump is considerable and many of us have learned the hard way. The general consensus among the vast majority is to eliminate the factory OE Carter pump and invest in a robust Class 8 aftermarket system. There are several companies that offer such devices with different performance levels and packaging. Many, come complete with new 1/2" fuel lines, mounting structures, fuel fittings and electrical control harnesses. Some companies offer more modest devices with a budgetary aspect at minimum level. All of this becomes apparent when a conscientious owner/operator begins the research to purchase a new device or system. I for one have stopped reading "Lift Pump" threads because it's so very painful...and I've already seen so many stories of the same old blah blah blah! No, I am not being insensitive to a fellow CTD owner's plight...after all, this is most likely a "new to Diesels" type person. The post is reaching out to the "experienced" diesel enthusiasts for suggestions and perhaps constructive feed-back, prior to making that large investment. Confidence from fellow CTD owners in what they may have purchased or installed goes a long way with the new guy or lady looking for an answer. For just a moment allow me a little latitude...Oh God! Not another Lift Pump story ...Yes but, not what you might think. This will drill-down in a different manor so, please bare with me. The factory OE "Carter" is such a little peanut-whistle why did Dodge do this? The fact is, as many know quite well, the decision was Daimler Chrysler who dictated to Cummins to provide the complete CTD engine package as a drop-in module. Carter's specifications states that, "this pump is to be located within 18 inches of the fuel supply"...it's sad to know these details greatly after the fact. This detail was covered 20 years ago on nearly every diesel website worldwide. This led to the unfortunate degradation of the Carter transfer pumps reputation. In actuality, the Carter LP (lift pump) has excellent design characteristics! At first glance the appearance seems a bit "puny" but, let's look at some of the "not so apparent features"... First of all, Carter is a very large world-wide company who provide a vast selection of produced articles. They also provide excellent technical documentation regarding the application of their products in numerous industrial devices, automotive, marine and aeronautical systems or platforms. Electro-mechanical pumps of this nature, are just a single product that they produce... In our application, CTD's are at first, supplied copious amounts of diesel fuel at acceptable levels to operate the engine and provide flow-through for critical cooling of the VP44 in return to the fuel tank. This is "how" the designed system was to perform. We know as experienced CTD owners that this was not always the case. Many of us know the error of mounting this little well designed pump nearly 10 feet forward of the fuel supply (not to specification of Carter Inc.) and ask this little pump to draw fuel through a small 1/4" line and....force the liquid through "banjo-bolt" fittings as delivery to the VP44? Wow...it's an unreasonable expectation for an electro mechanical pump, that most likely, costs less than $20 to produce in the Philippines. None the less, how many of us have had the occasional chat with a CTD owner (who knows nothing) that tells you they purchased the 2nd Gen new, he has 187K miles and has NEVER replaced the VP44 (he doesn't know what a VP44 is...you just taught him the word) and NO...he has never put a fuel pump into his truck! Yeah ! You know what I'm talking about ! How can this be ? Well...I guess some folks are a lot more lucky than I am... heck...this guy doesn't even know about 2 Stroke for lubricity,... credit our GodFather @Mopar1973Man This photo is well known as a starting point. Also, a depiction of what Cummins had to do to appease Daimler Chrysler's request of a "drop in module" CTD Okay...what is "a well designed pump"... even if it is not mounted correctly? At Carter, where they have been doing this longer than any of our familiar after-market LP suppliers... please note: 1... A fully enclosed hermetically sealed electro-machanical device that allows the liquid fuel to act as a cooling medium and fully immerses the active armature of the 12 volt DC motor to never exceed the temperature of the supplied liquid (diesel fuel)...because it is "airless" (hermetically sealed) there is no ignition to cause flammability. It's liquid cooled ! 2... The entire body or "encapsulation" as hermetic, provides absolute closure or isolation of the motor-brushes as they kiss the surface of the armature in run condition. This is very important as a DC (direct current) motor with carbon pile brushes act as a wild uncontrolled sparking noise source generator !!! This is a normal phenomena of any analog DC brushed motor. A given manufacturer of brushed DC motors, depending on purpose, will take steps to "silence" the electrical (RF noise generation)...the term "purpose" needs clarification... "if the motor is a "CCS" continuous commercial service (runs all the time) then, additional electronic filtering or "shunting" of the armature must be provided. 3... Carter Inc. employs RF Engineers (BSEE graduates minimum) to accomplish technical requirements when contracted specifications are to be adhered to for final product production. An expensive platform in any industrial production would have a string of engineers along with design engineers specking' components or assemblies that will be encapsulated within the finalized product. This occurred in "our" beloved CTD's with electro mechanical LP's....the Carter is "RF quiet" for continuous run condition. Let's examine the electronic terminals of the Carter LP Note: The plastic weather-guard assembly directly attached to the full metal housing that contains the + & - 12 volt DC ! 4... This connection point provides the direct current to power this LP. I wish you to fully understand what you're looking at. As viewed you'll note "both Plus+ and -minus" is provided at this connection point. You must also NOTE, the + and - are arriving directly from a single "pair" connection of both + & - .... I know you'll think I'm stating things "twice" and I want you to know this is an attempt to be a "balanced" feed. The housing of the pump is fully DC grounded when it is attached to the mounting bracket. In a "balanced" feed the "minus" or "negative" is NOT directly at chassis ground...it is merely + and - of the source (12 volts DC in our case) the body of the pump IS directly grounded but, the "source" is isolated from the pump body. Put your Ohm meter on either terminal and touch the pump body....there is NO direct DC continuity in a "balanced" source. This is a sexy way of making things very "quiet" electronically. Professional audio studios are fully balanced systems using "Cannon" connectors with three terminals. One is "plus" Two is "minus" and Three is "shield ground"....hence, balanced and NO Hum or Static noise. (Hey...those guys at Carter make a quiet pump...it's wimpy but, damn quiet) Okay...now let us examine what is going on internally on the back side of the connection point. A careful surgery, with hack-saw in hand, to remove the hermetically sealed body cover and expose the multi-octave filter or "shunting" design of this Carter LP. The double sided epoxy circuit board with modern surface-mount chip capacitors is excellent. This board is located directly at the input of the 12 volt source with virtually zero component lead length (surface mount) to provide shunting of the make and break contact that the brushes are doing directly at the armature when in "run" condition. This DC motor is virtually by-passed or shunted for any RF noise or "spiking" all the way passed 450 MHz! NOTE ! I did say "spiking" or should I say... "ripple"... this is a source of nasty "ripple" directly connected to the entire 12 volt DC rail of our beloved CTD's Quality engineering of analog DC motors remove such garbage before it is introduced to devices such as aircraft, fighter jets, military assault platforms, nuclear submarines and civilian automobiles. There are many preferred after market suppliers of fuel pumps or systems available and many are quite note worthy when it applies to providing solid reliable fuel flow. Many of these platforms exceed the requirements in "fuel flow" for the average diesel enthusiast. Sometimes choices are made because the owner has future plans of building enhanced performance characteristics. Some choose additional GPM for the insurance of added cooling by the "return flow" system design. All of the after market manufacturers of the upper end platforms do this with ease and price the devices accordingly. Caution in selecting any device that may cause unknown after effects in any mobile platform. The CTD 2nd Gen, is something I've looked at carefully for many years and I've made concerted efforts to correct some electrical over sites for the betterment of these noble platforms. I too have made large investments and the after market LP selections are not cheap. I was exceptionally disturbed when I successfully installed an after market LP system. The extreme effort to correctly and cleanly install the system along with all the cool JIC fittings and complete the project with pride that someone may examine my work was all accomplished. Then I shortly discovered the absolute short comings of my nearly $900 investment. I blamed myself for not test operating the device on a test bench and viewing the horrendous RF interference HASH that took out everything from 500 KHz (just below the commercial broadcast band) to well above 500 MHz. Is this important to you?... It is and perhaps it has not become apparent by the way such broadband RF interference manifests itself within a closed stand alone 12 volt system. To make these statements to you, the reader, let me be clear, I use and own a Hewlett Packard 8921A Digital RF test device, at $24,000.00 ...one must be "a fully certifiable crazy idiot" to have this along with a Tektronix 200 MHz 4 channel scope...and someone asked..."Do you need such instruments to look at $25.00 DC motors"...no but, I'm fully confident in my findings. Let's take a look at the much enhanced DC motor of an after market LP...it is irrelevant as to the manufacturer...they are all the same. This is an initial basic disassembly procedure that needs to be performed. It's very easy to accomplish. Once you have the cookie opened you'll be able to view the end-plate where the carbon brushes reside in their respective holders. Many of these devices and earlier models vary by design in physical form but, they are all the same in regard to an end-plate with brush tube holders. Here is the end-plate removed from a different LP unit and we can see the very minimal by-pass engineering of a single .47 Mfd mylar capacitor directly across the two brushes. Note, the lead length. This is typical of an inexpensive analog DC motor...I'll estimate the average wholesale cost of this to be somewhere around $10 to $15 US dollars. It would vary greatly, according to quantity buying levels. The only capacitor seen here is barley a by-pass or shunt...I'd prefer to call this a carbon brush protector. As the armature spins in normal operation, the "make" and "break" of the brushes riding against the armature where "flame" occurs...this cap is merely removing or dampening the "spark" and aiding brush-life longevity. At .47 Mfd it's really only helping at the lowest frequencies to roll off the RF spiking, also with long leads, transversing the distance between the two brushes does not help with the higher frequencies of this wild free-running spark-gap transmitter. This is a far cry from the excellent by-passing techniques incorporated into the wimpy little Carter device. Let us take a look at the fix procedure to begin " RF silencing" one of these very substantial LP platforms. We can't be as effective as the fully closed hermetically sealed package but, with careful effort you can knock this "ripple hash" down by 40db or better in just this simple step. The procedure above depicts a simple "drill and tap" technique using small machine thread hardware. 6/32 or 10/32 should suffice. You can use what ever hardware is available in your junk box as long as it is small enough to fit into the limited working space. Purchasing a small tap and companion drill at your local hardware store to match your "screw-thread pitch" is very low in cost. The skill required to do this is modest, just take your time and carefully hand-cut your threads gently. The cast aluminum end-caps are very easy to drill and tap. NO 9% IPA's should be consumed prior to drilling! Keep your hole straight and pay attention to the "depth" of your drill. With the armature removed you can "eye-in" an approximate location for the mounting hole to accommodate the miniature "lug"...this is where you make an accurate decision of the "angle" for the lug's contact arm to avoid contact with a spinning armature in "run-mode". You must also consider component "lead length"...keep this EXTREMELY short...it will be like working on a Swiss watch in confined space. NOTE: You must loctite your threads! This procedure is introducing component count within a very critical area...errors in loose components will be catastrophic !!! You will make NO errors here! Sorry...my photo is fuzzy. The photo below is zoomed-out for examination of component placement within the end-cap structure. It is tight but, it is precise and highly efficient. This depicts component selection: two each .1 Mfd silver Mica 100 volt dipped packages. I happened to have these in my junk box and standard miniature ceramic caps would also suffice. This completes the "critical" internal modification to initially "RF silence" the armature brush contact event point. I buy electronic components/parts from DigiKey or Mouser...these two capacitors will set you back about 30 cents each...your shipping cost will be ten bucks! Boy...I miss those cheesy little Radio Shacks. It was so convenient to buy little things like this for little money within my own community. Times have certainly changed. Now, carefully reassemble your enhanced LP device and mount it into it's operational nest on the vehicle. The photo below is the final step in this procedure. Again, this shunt capacitor is a .1 Mfd Orange drop package rated at 100 volts. I do prefer this package over standard Ceramic disks under the hood within engine compartments due to heat stress. These maintain tolerance over an extremely wide temperature range. The shortest leads possible, again, is the goal...the lead is directly connected to the relay socket where the 12 volts DC is connected through the relay contacts, that when "closed", provides DC excitation to the LP. I could have made these leads shorter but, I utilized the present ground on the firewall for convenience. Insert the relay back into the socket. This now completes the entire procedure. The monetary expenditure amounts to less than $1.00 for the capacitors. The time involved is substantial. The $689.00 plus dollar, advanced LP platforms available should have arrived fully prepared for trouble free installation and operation. The design engineering staff at Dailmer Chrysler would have never introduced an uncontrolled CCS constant run DC motor device into their platforms at any level. Cummins also, would have never allowed a DC pump without qualification standards to be specified for any production platform. The factory OE Lift Pump from Carter is a very under powered volumetric unit and their is no debating that short coming however: electronically it's design is superior in every aspect. The entire hermetically sealed housing acts as a complete Faraday Shield to fully encapsulate all electromagnetic static fields of force. It is a "dead silent" RF void device! This is just an example...all of the after market companies tout their prowess in delivering liquid fuel at astounding levels of performance, be it a stock engine or perhaps an extremely high horse powered competition street killing monster. None of them provide a civilized RF silenced DC motor to prevent "other" electronic automotive control elements from being harmed when operated within the confined structure of the vehicle. Note: not one bit of verbiage regarding the actual DC motor that powers the device! But, it pumps fluid like heck! I so dearly appreciate the flow factors, the filter systems, the mounting structures and comprehensive packages to alleviate all the short comings of my dismal factory transfer pump issues. Knowing well, that I'll never allow my one thousand dollar plus VP44 from ever being fuel starved again, by selecting an aftermarket LP system...only to realize afterwards, that the introduction of this major investment into my vehicle is now causing electronic issues, else where, within the vehicle! The expensive sound systems, vehicle speed sensing systems, erratic operation of TC lock-unlock, cruse control abnormalities, and radio communications equipment. All of these things at one time operated without error, you enjoyed the accurate trouble free aspects of your prized motor vehicle, then...something happened! Being cautious about adding any electronic implement into a trusted vehicle is always prudent. Asking the right questions before hand is always best practice. This information applies to ALL Vehicles regardless of manufacturer Ford, Chevy or Dodge. This article is following additional postings on this web-site...Mike Nelson @Mopar1973Man and Nick @Me78569are struggling to keep this small and independent site operational. I am not affiliated with any supplier or manufacturer...I am a contributing customer who appreciates the time proven and solid information/guidance these two men provide to the diesel community. I humbly share this knowledge with the CTD fraternity with enthusiasm, for the improvement of our platforms...may I ask a very small favor...if you find the information on this site of value could you please consider making a one dollar donation to the site to keep the lights on Thank you, Respectfully, W-T
  19. 6 points
  20. 6 points
    I don't know you that well, so I would never treat you like others do. When you are done, are you going to put the roof back on the chicken house? - John
  21. 6 points
    Just made a deal on a 2018 3500 Laramie. Quad Cab, Long Bed, Aisin, Auto-Level, Aux Switches, used with only 3200 miles on it. Keep an eye out for my 05 in the classifieds.
  22. 6 points
  23. 6 points
  24. 6 points
    That's the picture they show you when the Viagra lats longer than 4 hours
  25. 6 points
    What bothers me is like you say they can't get it right with starters and alternators. Look at the ECM rebuilders and the garbage some of them are doing. And they wanna build self driving vehicles? ...... imagine a simple electronic failure at 65 mph! There are some simple facts in life.... that concrete cracks.... rain makes mud..... and electronics do fail. I'll stick with my Cummins. .
  26. 6 points
    To block heat or not to block heat....It is better to heat some of the time than to start cold all of the time.
  27. 6 points
    Bacon Creek, can't help you there; I'd contact American Wheel, I'm sure they could answer any questions. Thanks again for your interest in my "project". Part 7: As some of you probably noticed in Part 6 picture postings, the last photo shows a 96 5.9 Cummins engine between the rails. I obviously decided to take the leap and replace the 440 gasser; I found a 96 4WD unit through a friend of mine. The engine had been off the road since 2000, it was involved in a roll-over, pulled from the body and stored until I bought it (with the provision that I would pay for it after it was started). I'll attach a couple of pictures of it "chained" between the rails and some pre-start steps intended to ensure oil was cycled through the system before power was put to the starter. I made an oil cannister out of PVC, hooked up a pressure hose to the oil system and pressurized the cannister forcing the oil through the system, being observed in the rocker arms. The engine started after just a few cranks and ran like a top. I'll attach a few additional pictures showing "cleanup" and pre-installation. I know I'm still screwing up the way I post these offerings but don't know the right procedure. Thanks for your patience.
  28. 6 points
    Mike, Good to hear you finding the positives in this scary situation. I think there are likely 2 reasons for all of the support here. You have been here and helped everyone possible on this site with their trucks. Good people always want to return help to those who have helped them. And the second part is where it starts with the common interest(s) which starts with the truck. This is how the world used to work, the common interest back than was survival and looking out for eachother to help support that survival. Sorry if I am rambling, but I bet a lot of people here would travel to Idaho for your “barn raising” and there would be no shortage of torque there Glad you are moving in the right direction Mike, thank you for all you do for the moparman community. Brian
  29. 6 points
  30. 6 points
    Good to hear. I knew it had to be simple with all power gone. To all my friends here, I AM AN ELECTRICAL GIANT!!!! Back off the soap box now, I need to check all the pennies in fuse box to be sure they have not burnt thru yet.
  31. 6 points
    Just wanted to follow up on the shock install. I went with the Bilstein 4600 shocks. I had some lengthy discussion with the tech support guys at Bilstein and they were VERY animated in their position that I would NOT be happy with the 5100's or the 5160's as they were designed for trucks that have been lifted and have a notably softer damping rate than the 4600's that were designed for stock trucks with stock suspensions. I am soooooooooooooooo glad that I listened to them. I cannot begin to describe the difference and improvement in the ride of the wife's truck! I still cannot believe that shocks could have that much influence on how the truck rides but they DO. It is like driving a totally different truck and reminds me of how it drove when it was new only it is just a bit firmer ride which is fine with me. My back is sooooooooooooooooo much happier riding around in the truck now. I guess I didn't realize how bad the ride had become over the years. The ONLY benefit of the way these truck rode before changing out the shocks was that they helped to dislodge kidney stones and help me to pass them faster. LOL! So, here is a case in which buying the most expensive item was not the best choice. The cheapest shocks turned out to be the best although I can't actually judge how the 5100 and 5160 shocks would have performed since I did not actually install and try them out. I am real happy with the Bilstein 4600's.
  32. 6 points
    Hey Guys and Girls...back from the "dead spot" in my activities...the Fire of Paradise California has me at a great disadvantage. I'll try to contribute correctly...things are a bit awkward without my standard living conditions. The 140 Amp fuse in the PDC (power distribution center) was placed in series from the alternator to the feed-point of the entire DC system in the vehicle. The out-put of current from the factory alternator has a maximum current rating of 135 Amps at a nominal voltage of 14.8 volts DC (direct current), keeping in mind that this condition is MAXIMUM ! All the DC demands from every element in the vehicle (headlights, fan-blower, windshield wipers, seat-heaters, radio-stereo, ect,..ect) sink current in their normal operation. If you merely add all the current demands of all components when they are activated you will obtain the "total current" demand, being drawn from the parallel storage batteries. The PCU monitors this demand and adjusts the charge rate delivered by the alternator to replenish the current being drained from the batteries. The factory alternator (as discussed in many reference threads on this site) is not fully adequate for our platforms however; the manufacture determined that "full demand" rarely occurs and the average owner-operator need not be concerned. Keeping in mind that the 135 Amp Denso or "other" alternator within this specific range is screaming it's guts out to produce current "when there is a demand" to provide this amount of current. The "140 Amp Fuse" does not prevent a failure. The 140 Amp fuse is in place to "open" when there is a gross error in current demand. A gross example would be a headlight relay tied directly to ground by an inadvertent short. Let us compound this buffoonery by dead-shorting the blower-fan +lead to ground. At the very moment this silly (stupid) scenario comes into play there will be an excessive flow of current directly to ground. Now...under "normal" conditions the individual small fuses providing DC to these two elements will "open" and prevent damage to the wires conducting the current. Some engineer at Daimler Chrysler thought it would be prudent to place this 140 Amp fuse in series to the PDC as a massive preventative fuse just in-case an owner/operator allowed or causes massive catastrophic contact to GROUND after or within the PDC...all while the mighty Cummins is actually running/idling. As one would surmise...this is highly unlikely however; IF this scenario were to manifest it's self into fruition the 140 Amp fuse would open only IF the alternator was in full current output and the parallel storage batteries were nearly dead and every fuse in the PDC had been replaced with solid copper pennies to continue continuity to a massive dead short to ground. This event would conduct so much current that the massive wiring harness and those beautiful "weather/Pack connectors would melt into a puddle of smelly goo....this can also ignite into a substantial flame and contribute to a total loss of the vehicle. Sorry...I'll try to curb my overzealous explanation. The 140 Amp fuse is only there for the Alternator's health...dead shorted cells within the batteries causing the alternator to run at full current demand into the puny #6 Gage factory charge wire would be opened to prevent melt down. A sever front-end collision with a driver pinned behind the steering wheel and his or her foot fully depressing the throttle and holding the Cummins at "red-line" run condition, post accident situation, and one or both batteries have collapsed into a pile of rubble due to the collision. The internal plates of the batteries coming into contact with one another is an explosive event. The PCU will be slow to react via the "battery temperature sensor" because the collision has disrupted the physical contact with the battery case and a loss of thermal telemetry is not present. The driver holding the throttle at red line will spin the alternator into maximum current production...now examining this entire ludicrous and hypothetical occurrence...my 140 Amp charge fuse saved my alternator...but, the truck is a total loss. As for the engineering/design concept of this 140 Amp fuse and where it is placed in the DC path for distribution...your diode pack within the alternator will have failed immediately approximately 30 milliseconds prior to the 140 Amp fuse "melt" or "open" time constant. Simply, a fuse will not prevent an inadvertent error in current flow to ground...what it does do, is prevent further damage to the wiring harness conducting current to the failed connection point. Mike...I'm very sorry to hear of this electronic dilemma...perhaps we might chat about this when convenient and I could boar the heck out of the MoparMan's1973 Fraternity with verbose explanations of the adventure. Respectfully W-T
  33. 6 points
    Just be aware. If coolant temperature starts to rise back off and slow down. Typically coolant will start to rise if the EGT's are held above 1,100*F for long periods. I know for a fact a stock ISB engine can and will run past 1,400*F just towing at highway speeds. I learned this lesson on my first trailer towing job hauling a friends Chevy pickup back from Boise, ID over Horsebend grade. Just barely install my DiPricol Pyrometer and still no injectors or tuners yet. The EGT's could rise to 1,400*F easily towing in top gear at 60 MPH which is posted speed limit. But I had the 3.55 gears... 5th Gear (NV5600) is direct 1:1 ratio this is the gear you want to be in towing over grades if you want to play it safe.
  34. 6 points
    This one has a weird color, but you can change that to whatever you like. Also, this is a prototype. Not the finished product. Stuff will change.
  35. 6 points
    That's ok not everyone needs training wheels
  36. 6 points
  37. 6 points
    After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally finds a morsel of cheese. Again, as it is well known @Mopar1973Man was the only entity who positively identified the instigating source of this key issue. My entry today is not about alternators...it is about what Daimler/Chrysler did in regard to production of these Cummins powered platforms and the complete disregard of common sense Electronic Engineering. Please note, this applies to automatic and manual transmissions as each platform is plagued in the same manor with different quirks. This Blk/Tan #8 gage wire is quite critical in the scheme of things. It is contained within a 1" plastic conduit passing along the front of the engine. It contains water temp sensor leads, air conditioning leads, alternator/PCM leads and the #6 gage alternator charge line to the PDC. This #8 gage Blk/Tan passes over the top/backend of the alternator and is "eventually" connected to the Auxiliary Battery (passenger side) negative terminal. This snapshot of the Factory Service manual documents "four critical ground leads" that are "spliced" in an unconventional method. This photo depicts the three #18 gage wires and the single #14 gage wire entering the shrink-tubing where the "crush-splice" occurs. This bundle exits the large plastic conduit below the VP44 This again is a most disturbing depiction of the Daimler/Chrysler method of splicing critical ground leads and then routing this across the top of the alternator and "eventually" bringing this to ground reference. This photo depicts where this #8 gage Blk/Tan first connects on the way to "eventual" ground...yes this is the Auxiliary Battery tray connector. Please note: it is spliced again and joins the PCM circuit board grounds...which are critical in their own nature...and "eventually" terminate at the negative post of the Auxiliary Battery's negative terminal. This photo is very interesting, it is the Factory Service manual and the assembly line documentation follows this as a road map in the matrix during production. Please NOTE the title "NAME" to each battery...I looked at this for a considerable amount of time before I realized the assembly line coordinators tried to work with the documentation from the Engineering Staff to "make it as it looks"...Could this single oversight be the reason of a four foot ten inch critical ground wire combination traveling the distance to "EVENTUALLY" terminate at ground? From a basic engineering standpoint regarding ground...you "NEVER CHOOSE THE PATH OF EVENTUAL GROUND" !!! It is to be the shortest and most concise connection in reference to ground...this is biblical in ALL ELECTRONICS...including pickup trucks. ! Here is the Factory Service manual documenting the PCM circuit board reference ground starting as a pair of #14 gage wires being spliced into a #10 gage bundle and arriving at the Auxiliary Battery through another connector that joins a #8 gage wire that is "splice-joined" under plastic conduit in a Y configuration joining the rouge #8 gage "after passing over the alternator" traversing the entire engine compartment from the driver side of the vehicle. Seriously I have been drinking excessively, most recently, due to the nature of this blatant discovery. This is the hidden Y splice at the Auxiliary Battery where the "mess" EVENTUALLY terminates for ground reference. This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location It took a little research to find the size and proper thread-pitch. Metric M5 with a 5/16" hex head is perfect This is where you apply a fresh "quality" #6 gage ground and terminate this at the Main Battery negative post on the drivers side for absolute ground reference for the VP44 and ECM This is a very short and concise reference to ground. This is the corrected procedure for a rather critical ground. The two largest wires originally contained within the 1 inch conduit are no longer present and located well away from the alternator. My alternator B+ "charge" line is now a #4 gage line directly connected to the Auxiliary Battery and when my new battery terminals arrive and they are secured, I'll provide photos of a completed Master Power Supply System within this engine bay. With these corrections, I would hypothesize that a poor ripple specification on a given alternator would be overcome by the immense capacitance of the parallel batteries and would become less prone to causing the dreaded TC lock/unlock for automatics and cruise-control abnormalities for the manual transmission platforms. The #8 gage Blk/Tan passing over the alternator as an "EVENTUAL" ground is gone...the PCM, ECM, VP44 and the PDC are now grounded in accordance of standard Electronic Engineering practices. Respectfully W-T
  38. 5 points

    Type: Raffle


    • 1 Prize
    • 28 Participants

    It has been a few month since we have given anyone a chance to win something so Mopar1973man.com is raffling off a set of Diesel Auto Power injectors of your choosing up to 7 x .010's in size! Get your $5 ticket now for a chance to win. The more tickets you buy the better your odds are. We will draw one winner on 5/16/19 at 8 pm MT. You can choose either 12V injectors up to 7 x .010's or 150 HP over stock or 24v up to 7 x .010's or 150hp from Diesel Auto Power and we will have them drop shipped to you. Thanks to DAP for working with us on this raffle!
  39. 5 points
    At the dumpster enclosure, CFA Lexinton SC. About as close to a land mark I get these days.
  40. 5 points
    I also use it as a paint remover and weed killer. We've got your friction modifiers right here.
  41. 5 points
    I got a phone call bright and early this morning from the Chevron down in Riggins, ID (Steve Crump). He explained that the ambulance crew last night had a double back to back to run. When the crew got back to Riggins, ID they always load with fuel and restock. At 1am things can get a bit foggy and confused. The driver loaded the nearly empty ambulance with gasoline. It's a 6.0L Ford Power Stroke Diesel. They left the ambulance at the fuel pump for the night. Told Steve that I'd be down in about an hour. I got myself together and hauled for Riggins, ID. The ambulance was still at the fuel pump. I pulled up and unrolled my new tow strap. Hitched up and towed the ambulance from the fuel pump to the side of the building. I proceeded to siphon out the fuel from the filler neck to 5-gallon buckets and using Chevron station for disposing of the waste fuel. The Chevron station uses the fuel for there waste oil heater. Just an added bonus for them. Once we were done draining we then pushed the ambulance backward a few feet and turned it back towards the fuel pumps to fill it with fresh diesel fuel. Like I told Fred the driver that always grab the GREEN handle. I save the Riggins, Idaho Ambulance.
  42. 5 points
    You cant beat that for the most part. My youngest son is 43 and still manage to drag him in sometimes. We usually have pretty good time. Last time he said he did not do any thing. But when your laying under the truck and need tools not having to get up and get them is a blessing. So here is to the sons and other helpers.
  43. 5 points
  44. 5 points
    When I put 7 gallons of gas in my Dodge, I just filled it the rest of the way with diesel and drove it. I ran 2-stroke oil in that thing anyway, so no harm, no foul. It was just a little noisy (a noisy 24 valve...imagine that!), and down on power a bit. Back in the day when I went through all of Bosch's diesel (and gas) training courses, Bosch recognized up to 25% gasoline in the fuel to help them start in cold climates.
  45. 5 points
    I'm back home. Got a good nights rest. There is quite a story to tell.
  46. 5 points
  47. 5 points
    Happy New Year to you all. On my way to the Oregon coast to do some whale watching. I told my wife we don't have to drive that far, that we could just go to the local Walmart... she didn't find that as funny as I did.
  48. 5 points
    Hauled a little fire wood over Christmas. 61 year old tractor, 20 year old truck, and 2 men that fall somewhere in between did pretty good.
  49. 5 points
    OK. Just got off the phone with Cody at Super Stick Transmissions. This is what I gathered from speaking with him. He prefers Red Line MTL especially for cold climates. https://www.redlineoil.com/mtl-75w80-gl-4-gear-oil I told him that I have a 5 gallon pail of: Pennzoil Synchromesh that I have been using for the past 16 years, https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/other-oils-fluids-fuel/manual-transmission-fluids-axle-oils/synchromesh-manual-transmission-fluid.html#iframe=L3NvcHVzL3Blbm56b2lsLzIwMTZuZXdzbGV0dGVyLz9sb2NhbGU9ZW5fdXM= Phillips 66 SAE 50 synthetic, http://shop.sclubricants.com/phillips-66-triton-synthetic-transoil-50 This might be a possibility https://www.phillips66lubricants.com/product/triton-synthetic-mtf and Amsoil MTL. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/ I asked him if he had a choice between the SAE 50 synthetic and the Amsoil MTL in my Tennessee climate, what would he go with. He said Amsoil MTL. He said that the SAE 50 synthetic works very well in the NV5600 and seems to be best suited to the warmer climate of Texas. I am going to try the Amsoil MTL in both of our truck's NV5600's. If I am not real happy with it, I ask Cody if he saw any problem with mixing the Amsoil MTL and the SAE 50 synthetic 50/50 and he said no and that many of his customers try mixing various lubes in search of the magic potion for the NV5600. The Amsoil meets the MS 9224 spec required for the NV5600 by Dodge, figure I can't go wrong starting off with Amsoil MTL. The fall back is the 50/50 mix with SAE 50. Hats off to Cody. Seems like a real nice guy and was VERY free with sharing his knowledge and information.
  50. 5 points
    I thought they stuffed chicken in a casket.
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