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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/08/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    i had one, it worked great and could be flipped to sit in the bed or out of the bed. only thing is it lengthened the truck and you have to run a catch net in front of it if carrying small things (no tailgate) this is with my 35" super swampers here is one with it flipped out and doubled as a cooktop
  2. 2 points
    I like the old school mount kinda, the recessed one is an awesome idea! my second choice and is what im gonna build is a gooseneck ball mounted carrier...!!! Like this but mounted on the gooseneck ball... However my ideas and build will be going on a flatbed...
  3. 2 points
    It only took 2 weeks to get to this point, but I have reloaded a few rounds lolol. $.55 cents a round compared to $1.30-$1.60 per round.......that is if you ignore the upfront cost of the reloading stuff Wifes Rifle ready sight in. guess I have to take her hunting now lol
  4. 1 point
    I used USCG fuel line, It was about $2.50 a foot give or take. Well worth the money because it has steel brads inside. and it works great for what I have to use. I should also mention I wrapped it in crinkle tube as well for added security.
  5. 1 point
    What happens when you need to pull a gooseneck? That's when I want a spare the most.
  6. 1 point
    Any gauge, and especially the sending units are sensitive to what's called the water hammer effect. Basically fuel like water don't compress well at all, and so when you have a pump the cyclic pressure vibrations will be transported down the piping. And sending units and gauges will pick up on these cyclic vibrations. Over time they will destroy the gauge/sending units accuracy. The best thing to do is to add in that t fitting and crack it open, just enough to get a reading, then have plenty of line to help asorbe it. Personally I picked a midpoint between the two, let the fass and the VP fight one another. Gotta love fluid dynamics
  7. 1 point
    Never seen that before...that's some pretty good fab work! Great for hunting, camping or beach. I would miss my tailgate more than a spare tire though. Pretty cool stuff though! 👍
  8. 1 point
    never less than 7 x .010's if you are going with a quad. The 7 x .010's are a perfect match for an hx35 without wiretap leaving. Tuning first is a good idea that's it unless you want fuel pressure as well. They dont include that by default as most guys already have a mech fp gauge.,
  9. 1 point
    not all trucks came with fog lights. Pretty sure the bumper is exactly the same, but the plastic pieces that bolt into the rectangular holes is different. Looks like LNJ was the code for "with foglights"
  10. 1 point
    Don't forget the 2 cycle oil in the tank and being religious about fuel pressure staying above 14. If that means a new gauge, remember the electronic sensor needs 5 feet of line between it and the needle valve.
  11. 1 point
    The cut outs in my bumper are rectangular also. The plastic inserts behind the bumper have the round holes for the fog lights. This is for a non Sport bumper. Not sure what the sport bumper is like. On a different note, I like either Canadian or American whiskey when some ine else is buying.
  12. 1 point
    If this VP44 and FASS lasts 11 years I'll be very happy. It will stop being a daily driver in a couple of months so the mileage will go way down. I'll probably not put another 100K on it before I expire!
  13. 1 point
    I care.. i don't know if it's been talked about or not but what i found be really handy is shut off valves before and after fass pump. Changing filters, priming Etc I'm did the fass pump with jic fittings and picked up a cheap Carter pump and laying around just in case. My old fass lasted over 11 years but when it finally gave way i was a middle of nowhere, that's why I carry a cheap Carter pump. Takes me 20 minutes to turn the shut-off valve unscrew the fass and put the Carter pump in. switch over the electric and I'm off and running again.
  14. 1 point
    With that being said I'll go back to part of your quoted post above. I would and have strongly recommended to run 2 stroke in the fuel to owners of VE pumped 6BT's and VP pumped ISB's many times. Reason being is fuel lubrication was a whole lot better pre-2007 fuel which is the fuel the VE and VP were designed for. I think most VP failures pre-2007 fuel were likely due to Cummins poor choice in lift pump which didn't carry enough volume and pressure under load. Then we had Daimler which is the current owner of Freightliner, Detroit Diesel, Mercedes Benz, and many other brands come up with a brilliant idea of retrofitting our Rams to an in-tank lift pump which was a minor if any at all improvement over the Cummins / Carter lift pump. IMO if a constant 15-20 psi of fuel with 2 stroke oil which will get fuel condition closer to what Bosch designed the VP to operate with will greatly improve performance and longevity for a VP44 pump. Most people who buy these trucks don't know much about diesels in general and would not be willing or even know how to add 2 stroke lube to the fuel. That was my point. Those of us who know both the electrical and mechanical side of the newer trucks still cringe when we have to work on them for friends. If we were being paid to do it might be more fun, but after spending months diagnosing a Ford 6.0 with $500 in parts needed every month (yes, I said every 30 days), or it would not start. That's no fun. Whats going to happen because of all the expense, unreliability etc, is that the whole industry is going to change and there will be no more diesels (as we know them) very soon. And NO. I totally disagree that a diesel has to be expensive. As long as you have mechanical and or electrical skills, these trucks can be run very cheaply. I've paid at most $5200 for any one truck I have and I STILL expect them to go more than 500k without major repair, and they do in most cases (excluding the 2001 24V). I paid $2500 for my 1995 12V and it still runs after 445k miles of running every but cat piss through it. As an engineer I know that Bosch has fuggered up on these designs, and they know it. I however do not have much data on reliability of the 2010 and newer trucks, so I can't speak much on them. The Achates engine and others will most likely take over just as Hybrid electrics become the dominant force because of these issues along with emissions becoming more strict.
  15. 1 point
    Dobber, Check out the Apps. Make sure it is not the problem. Try a different ECM. (I was able to swap my brother's and mine to confirm it wasn't the ECM) This is a failure mode of the VP. My brother's died this way. No codes ever. But when cold it was dead pedal. If you let the truck warm up, it would run normally. VPs really rarely fail this way, but it does happen. Our mental model of the problem is a cracked solder in the wiring to the fuel metering solenoid. Fuel volume is not increased as the apps increases voltage. (the crack in the solder closes with the thermal expansion of the pump. allowing it to begin working normally.) There appears to be no confirmation programming (and therefor set a code). In most gas cars there are some lines of code that relate TPS voltage and engine speed. (this is usually in the Idle speed control circuit, but i am seeing it more in other areas) but the code uses a bit of logic: my commanded engine speed is increasing, but the actual engine speed is not increasing. Hope you find your troubles! GL Hag
  16. 1 point
    I would return it if possible and get one of these
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