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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The site isn't going to shut down and MoparMan has gone way overboard working for the equivalent of 10 cents an hour for years and years helping everyone. He is genuine and even lets big chickens join up and big idgits like me too. So we all who want to take part will make sure it stays so we can continue to take part. There's nothing like owning a non common rail truck that will keep going with a little help from a site for a few bucks a month. Bud..... that's just the way it is and I'm happy about all the fantastic help I wood have a tough time expressing how much it has helped.
  2. 2 points
    Whats the difference in buying a pretty cheap membership or making a donation. The money goes to the same purpose.
  3. 1 point
    Put a cap or plug of some sort on the reservoir nipple where you took the hose off so the oil stays in the reservoir during the process. I cut a short piece of rubber line, stuffed a bolt in the end to plug it, and put it back on the nipple until I was done with the flush. just need to plug the hole so fluid doesn't run out.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    My original clutch lasted for 297,000 miles. The clutch didn't fail - the pilot bearing did. As hindsight, I now know that I should have done the clutch job around about 250,000 miles because when the pilot bearing failed (same symptoms as yours), it damaged the pilot bearing surface of the transmission input shaft - a very expensive item to replace. I chose not to replace the transmission input shaft, but the new pilot bearing may now have a shorter life because of the damage. I replaced the clutch disc, pressure, flywheel, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. I used a new Luk clutch assembly from Napa. I am still running the original clutch hydraulics. So far, so good at 314,000 miles. Because of my experience, I recommend that you do a full clutch job now, before more potential damage has a chance to occur. - John - John
  6. 1 point
    Thanks to everyone here. The engine replacement project is drawing to a close. I’m hoping to make some noise tomorrow. Still working on the exhaust pipes. Long tube Headers and 3” pipes all the way back. Yes, noise.
  7. 1 point
    I'm running a 200tstat from the dodge dealership, and on vent i see 180F out of the vents, and it will bake you out.
  8. 1 point
    I'm running right behind him at 384k miles. Still kicking out about 1,000 miles a week. These engines are good for 1 million miles. I'm on my second clutch. South Bend Con OFE clutch. It a full kit with flywheel, all bearings, friction disc and the pressure plate. Trailer towing and log skidding is really tough on clutches. Being this clutch is mostly highway miles I'm going to get much more miles on it. Transmission wise I broke the main shaft on the OE transmission. Still going on the new one already past 100k miles.
  9. 1 point
    When I did mine, I used a stack of fender washers and a nut that threaded onto the stud and an impact to pull the studs through. Oil everything up so the washers slide on each other. Worked like a charm.
  10. 1 point
    Wise guy. I resemble that remark.
  11. 1 point
    The only thing Dripley would consider an upgrade would be a chicken hood ornament or such............
  12. 1 point
    Just keep in mine that Smarty doesn't advance as far as the Quadzilla. Quadzilla can do a max of 32° of timing advancement from TDC. Then Quadzilla has timing controls to retard timing in the initial stab of the throttle to all for turbo spooling. Low PSI Timing Reduct Timing Reduct Scaling Then you have the Max Load Timing Offset so when you drop out of cruise timing it retards timing the set amount vs engine load this always for building boost just off of cruise timing when engine load increases. As a daily driver can use 1.0° or 1.5° of offset. Then as your cargo or trailer load increases, you can add more offset to protect the engine. While you all are playing with a little +60 HP tuner with unknown setting there is a 180 HP tuner that has full control of fuel and timing.
  13. 0 points
    I say shut the site down. If advertisements and banners dont make it self sustaining, let it go.
  14. 0 points
    I've found sometimes choices sound or not often results in wasted money
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