Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/05/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I was unaware Smarty was a vendor here. I'm not sure if Bob Wagner is the vendor on this site, but he is definetely a great resource for troubleshooting the Smarty programmers! Found Bob Wagner contact yesterday afternoon. Sent him an email yesterday and he replied yesterday (Sunday). He asked a couple questions and this morning I had it fixed. Awesome service. Thank You Bob Wagner!
  2. 1 point
    You wanted information on a good reliable brand of thermostat, and now that’s pissing on your thread This is all thermostat discussion on what’s good, what’s not, and what’s correct. It’s not even off topic at all, but feel free to react this way. Sorry if you’re taking it as anything else, but really it is all here to help you and anyone who searches for the info in the future.
  3. 1 point
    OP, Did you read this? Every thing I described is in the Napa link you posted. Click on all four units that fit your truck and read the specs and make a choice. The info is all there.
  4. 1 point
    It actually is helping with your question. Can't help you make an educated decision when you're given information on the wrong thermostat. Multiple people have run into the issue Michael did, so it seems that there may be some messed up part numbers in the parts manual that need to be watched out. At the end of the day there still is a Cummins part available.
  5. 1 point
    Just look at it, it's very obviously for a different application. It's not able to close the bypass, hence wrong application. You should have enough experience and maintenance know how to realize that, and shouldn't have installed it. It's not new.. I quickly found photos of that EXACT same thermostat from 2012. It was the wrong thermostat for the application in 2012 as well. Not when it's the wrong thermostat....
  6. 1 point
    Missed that post (back to getting too many emails, and clicked the newest email link), however, did you get a replacement for the new one? Did it look the same? That looks like the wrong part, as it doesn't appear to be designed to work properly with the bypass, which would make it run cold. It's easy to tell just from your photos it's not going to work properly. Quick search shows other threads where your "NEW" thermostat is the wrong thermostat for the application. So that begs the question, are they mis-packaged or wrong in the parts manual. One thread was 2012 with the exact same thermostat...so it's not a "New" design.. it's the wrong thermostat. Same issue as you, running cold... so that's not a failure of the thermostat, that's the wrong part for the application... those are 2 very different things. I'd give NAPA praise if their stuff worked... it just never has for me.
  7. 1 point
    Cummins might change manufacturers, but the specs likely don't vary from mfg to mfg.... Either way, not sure how it can be wrong when the forums are full of failed/improper operating non-Cummins units and I haven't read any of those issues with OEM thermostats. Non-OEM is a crap shoot, not so with OEM.
  8. 1 point
    on 2013+ trucks there are 2 filters that should be changed every 15,000 miles. this should be done when you do your oil filter Parts needed / Part number 1. 68197867AB fuel Filter 2. 68157291AA Water separtor 3. 29mm socket f or the fuel filter cap 4. ratchet / extensions / elbows 5. oil filter rubber wrench is helpful for the water seperator Filter Locations Filter 1 is on the driver side of the engine mounted to the block. You will need a 29mm socket to undo this. You will also likely need a elbow or 2 to get around the hood cowl. Note the cap is plastic so take care not to strip it. Filter 2 is located just in front of the Rear Axel centered above the drive shaft. This filter is a screw on filter. ** please note that you will get a good amount of fuel spillage when you unscrew this filter. Ensure your eyes are not going to be leaked on. Note the water in fuel sensor / drain. this sensor can be unplugged from the truck harness to make removal easier. The Part number for this is PFRK54553 but you dont need to replace unless damaged. a new o-ring comes with the filter.
  9. 1 point
    Why I'm asking for the manufacture than the vendor because then you can go directly to the source for a the thermostat and most likely get a better price and still get a Cummins thermostat. Cummins, Mopar, NAPA, Autozone are just vendors that sell what is put in the box and know nothing about what is in the box. I've ask at the Dodge Dealer for manufacture info and they are clueless like usual. Still in all there is only a handful of companies manufacturing these thermostats and you should just go directly to the manufacture and skip the logo'ed box.
  10. 1 point
    I don't know who the vendor is, but whoever it is they will manufacture to Cummins specs. You say the 2019 is different but without a part number it is hard to say. That t-stat looks like a 12 valve style. Maybe it was packaged wrong....
  11. 1 point
    If you're shuddering when leaving from a stop, your forward clutch is slipping, and the converter clutch is not in the picture all. The converter clutch is what the ATF+4 is needed for. No type of fluid will fix that a dead forward clutch. You will have a better feeling transmission with Dex III (that's why myself, and many other builders recommend it), but I wouldn't run Dex III with a single disc converter, stock or otherwise.
  12. 1 point
    If you're at 2800 on your WOT 1-2 shift, and it feels good, then leave it alone. 3K for the WOT 2-3 is about right as well. I'd leave it alone, but definitely adjust your bands if you haven't done so already. Assuming that your transmission is stock, I'd run the front band at 2 turns out, and the rear band at 3 turns out. Don't be messing with the TV lever stop. That's not an adjustment that needs to be messed with except for when setting up the valve body. Yes, I do have specs that I use, but it depends entirely upon the application.
  13. 1 point
    Anyone that works on their own vehicle knows this. My point is, oem has different specs than the aftermarket, they will fit and work. Aftermarket will usually fit and might work.
  14. 1 point
    No. The bottom end typically is not that accurate and hard to feel the click. Better off getting a 3/8 Torque Wrench with smaller foot pound rating.
  15. 1 point
    The standard in stock Napa thermostat is Motorad for the 180 or 190. They offer a 190 Safe-T-Stat special order, it is the fail safe type. They also offer a stainless steel one, special order. I had major issues with my Napa 180, went to a Cummins 180 and all is well. I haul heavy, in steep country, in hot weather. Driving around empty, the Napa 180 was fine. Note the difference in design of the Cummins (far left) and the Napa (far right) these are both 180. The middle one is a 190 but not sure of the make. Be sure and click on the pictures and blow them up for a real good look.
  16. 1 point
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201295614242
  17. 1 point
    If you can track down the factory pan gasket with the two oring seals in it. No sealant, no leaks, and reusable. @Dynamic have any sales coming up?
  18. 1 point
    Good info here as I have been tweaking my 47re. Might have to splurge for a pan too, looks nice. I assume the pan has a bolt for the temp sensor hole if you dont have the sensor yet. I think i had over tightened my bolts on last service..ever so slight weep, keeps the rust off. JAG1 may I ask what service you plan to perform on your trans other than fluid, filter and pan?
  19. 1 point
    Bend the bracket on tranny that holds the cable to tighten or loosen it. There is minimum TV cable adjustment inside the tranny this will set minimum pressure. I do not k ow specs for this adjustment. It a bolt stop that just physical stops the TV lever. Maybe dynamic has the spec I do t and haven't found. I've messed with mine until I like how it pulls off idle. I may raise minumum tv pressure alittle more trying not drop the pan till its at least got 10k or so on the oil. You can hold the TV arm with zip ties or wire to do the same thing the bolt adjustment does inside the tranny. Is the the truck down shifting?
  20. 1 point
    I use a Goerend pan too w/paper gasket and no sealants. I torqued to 15 ft/lbs...cuz I thought that was the spec. I've never heard of DEX III if you have a triple. I'm still using ATF+4 on my Goerend triple and valvebody. What are the benefits of DEX III and black over ATF+4...other than it being cheaper?
  21. 1 point
    I just thought it was pretty cool that in 2019 they are making a performance video about tuning a 17-22 year old truck with the "worst" injection pump. The VP44 just doesn't get the love that the p7100 and cp3 gets...so it was good to see the love. Personally I absolutely love the VP! They are so versatile...anything from a excellent mpg tow machine to a street beast. They are cheap (trucks and pumps), reliable (no, I'm not drinking), powerful and highly adjustable. I have been contemplating for the longest time on whether to buy a 2007 5.9...but every time I get serious about it I end up deciding against it and liking my truck even more. Love is crazy!
  22. 1 point
    I have used a ton of Goerend pans. Top shelf stuff. I always use a fiber gasket like the one that Goerend sends with any aluminum pan, and every build that goes out of here has an aluminum pan on it. Don't even think of using RTV on the pan gasket (or anywhere else on the transmission). Torque all of the pan bolts to spec. I run them at 12 lb/ft. One of the main reasons for using an aluminum pan is to add rigidity to the case as these things have literally zero case structure on the bottom. If you're not properly torquing the pan, that benefit can be called into question. Bear in mind that they will probably loosen up after a few drive cycles as the fiber compresses. Just hit them with a torque wrench one more time after a few days. As mentioned, pretty much every temp sending unit I've ever had my hands on is 1/8" NPT. You'll need to stick with ATF +4 if you have a single disc converter (stock or otherwise), or your converter clutch will chatter as it slips. With a good triple and valve body, you can switch to Dex III with some Lubegard "Black" added to it.
  23. 1 point
    Ppe is what I have. I almost did goerend but decided I wanted a bigger pan. My metal lines are leaking so I pack a case of this I added a quart last night to stay up on the stick. Need to find the time to do all soft lines. I've had my truck 15 years built the tranny 2 years ago and just did the ppe pan 3 months ago or so. I mess with the tranny alot the drain plugs a god send. Lol though the deep pan is more a pain to take on and off. I did do a drain plug in the factory pan. Latly I've been worried or thinking the filter might drop off the tranny not sure I like filter being lowerd. I think I'd notice as soon as it dropped though I'm rambling
  24. 1 point
    Well I reckon it was just a little rust build up. Drove it yesterday and hauled the tractor and bushog today. No issues at all. Glad it was nothing!
  25. 1 point
    I have used Tire Rack several times now. (4 sets of tires for the 'other vehicles). We found a shop up in Bend that matches Tire Rack's prices and we get a small break in mounting and balancing when we order through their shop. But the same shop have also happily mounted and balanced tires purchased directly through Tire Rack and had delivered to them. Tire Rack has provided very fast service and delivery - they get a definite Four Thumbs up from us...
  26. 1 point
    What ya been feeding that thing, cream of wheat?
This leaderboard is set to Boise/GMT-06:00
×
×
  • Create New...