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  1. Mopar1973Man

    Mopar1973Man

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    dripley

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    IBMobile

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    Russ Roth

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/11/2020 in all areas

  1. We are traveling right now but have someone at our home east of Vancouver. 217th ave and there was pretty large fire at 234th ave which is too close for comfort. Fortunately that one got put out quite quickly. Several or more friends/relatives/Fire coworkers live in same area Jag does and have been evacuated. So far none have lost their home I know of but neighbors have. One is east of Estacada and has been checking in regularly and is staying put. Couple years ago he purposely logged around his place to create a large defensible area. Working so far although he spent the other nigh
    3 points
  2. Get the vehicle ID number and go to a Dodge dealer parts or service department; see if they will print the factory build sheet for it.
    2 points
  3. I use Lube Locker self sealing gaskets -- no sealer required and they are reusable (tend to check on a regular basis).
    2 points
  4. I have to agree @Threadzy on finding the problem first. You can flush a lot of cash down the toilet hoping this or that might fix the problem. FWIW my HX35 has 510k on it. Rebuild kits for them are about $50. DAP has them.
    2 points
  5. Fixed! @NIsaacs got it right. Sitting here twiddling my thumbs I went to the Napa in town and got a t3 gasket and decided to just replace it since I’ve got nothing else to do and sure enough no more scary sounds with the new gasket. There’s only a tiny bit of soot on the edge, I guess because it would only leak at high drive pressure when the smoke had cleared up? Not sure about that... Either way, thank you guys for being awesome as always
    1 point
  6. Look on your glove box door. If it is still readable it should say there. Another way is to jack up the rear end and spin one of the tires. If the other side turns the same way it is LS. If they spin opposite direction it is open.
    1 point
  7. Some of us choose to live out in the national forest of the United States. It does come at a price of handling wild fires and protecting your home. I've had two wild fires within FEET of the house in the 30 years of living here. If you keep a defensible space around your home then fire danger is reduced quite a bit. Like myself I've got to clean up my space around both houses. Teepee Springs fire that burned the east side of the valley all the way to Riggins ID nearly 15 miles long.... This is not edited...
    1 point
  8. After driving back and forth to local friends place it runs fine isn't too bad for smoke does roll some coal clears up pretty quick. Without the boost fooler I falls flat on power as it passes 20 PSI then continues slowly to build all the way to 30 PSI. Still no codes at this point or any weird issues. I'll get the Quadzilla packed up and sent in the mail to Quadzilla Power for testing and repair.
    1 point
  9. Like I no longer even consider deletes anymore. I've found a few tuners that delete the software but leaves all the hardware in place. It will reduce the regen cycles amounts and the EGR is shut off. Why bother with removing all the smog stuff to get hassled later for trying to sell deleted truck. Here in Idaho you cannot trade in a deleted truck.
    1 point
  10. Limited slip 85w-140 GL-5 (Synthetic) Open Diff 80w-90 GL-5 (Petroleum) Transfer Case ATF (Dextron) ATF+4 is not required! Diff Covers just use Ultra Grey RTV silicone. Like my truck is open diff front and rear. Even with a limited slip rear you would use the 85W-140 in the rear and then in the front use 80w-90 since there is no limited slip front axles.
    1 point
  11. Quadzilla Power - 801-872-5472
    1 point
  12. This is why I do not suggest AGM or sealed batteries. There is no way of doing this equalize charge on any AGM or sealed battery. Even my solar system does this same task with raising the battery voltage above operational voltage and continues to run till the set time expires. Basically you looking to increase a 12 volt battery to at least 15.5 volts and hold it till the charge amperage drops to near zero. This will signal the completion of the equalize charge. Oh yeah 8 years on my current batteries still ticking WalMart... I also cheat and use the solar system to do
    1 point
  13. I think we will keep all of the folks out the way in our prayers. The nightly news covered it pretty well tonight. Not a place I would want to be right now. God bless you @JAG1 and all of you in harms way.
    1 point
  14. Most of here dont go to shops except as a last resort. We kind of rely on one another to help find the solutions for 2 reasons. 1 to save the money and 2 so we hope we did it right. Plus this is the glue that holds this place together, Several years ago my company sent me to Missouri on a day trip. My project manager asked me if the AC worked. Well it had not worked for about 3 years and I told him I was fine I just roll the windows down and drive. That entire trip it rained and was 95 out the whole way up and back to NC. I jumped on here and had all the info I needed and rebuilt the whol
    1 point
  15. I just got off the phone with JAG1. He is under mandatory evacuation and is living in his camper at a church campground. Keep him in your prayers.
    1 point
  16. My mag Tech with real good instructions https://mag-hytec.com/installation/
    1 point
  17. I would use 80w-90 for the front and if you tow, 85w-140 for the rear or if you prefer 75w-140 synthetic. If you have limited slip in the rear you need to use additive or some oil has it included. T-case calls for ATF+4. Not sure what you mean by "sealing materials". If you mean the diff covers, a good quality RTV sealer works or if you want, Napa will have or can order the gaskets for them.
    1 point
  18. GL5 80-90 FOR AXLES, GOOD OLE ATF FOR THE T-CASE.
    1 point
  19. I'll update this thread with info from my experience, in case someone has the same issue(s): As I described a few posts up, my truck had a very intermittent misfire only when warm. I could "cancel" or "hide" the misfire by pushing the brake pedal, turning the steering wheel or turning on the A/C. I took Mike's advice, pulled the injectors to have them pop tested and flow matched. I dropped them off at a local injection specialist at 8AM, I got a call at 9:15 that they are all leaking. I bought a set of stock replacements and installed them, and did a valve adjustment.
    1 point
  20. My first question.... what are they doing about the efficiency of losing ~20% of power each way? It is bound to be a brushless 3ph motor, owing to the 3 wires, which means thats an inverter box. Looks a lot like my prius drivetrain bolted to a turbo. It's great for traffic (I have gotten 75+mpg in city) but is not great for highway(45-55mpg). It is more efficient to just not have the hybrid system, but the ability to store otherwise wasted heat energy makes up for it in intermittent power situations. On the highway, it's just extra weight. EMD built their later 2 strokes with a tu
    1 point
  21. I run thf1000 Chevron in everything. But I do put dot 4 or 3 in the brakes
    1 point
  22. Take care @JAG1! I’m a couple hours from the nearest fire. Smoke covered sky’s the last week or so.
    0 points
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