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  1. That Guy

    That Guy

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  2. Mopar1973Man

    Mopar1973Man

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  3. Dieselfuture

    Dieselfuture

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  4. Threadzy

    Threadzy

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/22/2020 in all areas

  1. That the weird part I do not block links back to CF but sure enough CF will block anything to M73M.com truly sad. That breaks the SEO chain. Not to mention the fact of people on CF are blocked from good information now. Truthfully I got tired long ago of having to prove myself every step of the way. On the brighter side this why I spend $360 a year on the software. Our software is alway up to date and secure! https://invisioncommunity.com/release-notes/ New released update I can install today! Software is all up to date... Now I know this is not released YET... It's in beta test stages with the software company but there will be a soon a mobile app for the site for both iDevices and Androids. I've know about this since the 4.5.0 release. Since it not functioning properly I've not released the app name or anything till the company does a full release too.
    3 points
  2. Are you sure that's not a urine sample? The diesel here is light yellow to clear.
    2 points
  3. Weird. Mines red Seriously though, I've never poured it in a jar to look but it doesn't look like that here. Has a green tint to it. It's not bio though. I have no experience with that.
    2 points
  4. I decided to try and weld the doors. It didn't go so well. I managed to gas weld the drivers door to at least being functional, I ended up cutting out the latch section on the passenger door. What happens when you douse the door with water after welding and then walk away for 5 minutes. I attempted to save the original metal, gave up. Cracks went too far, and I had tried to use a stick welder on its lowest setting. Ended up using oxy/ace and got after I went and got another acetylene tank and a 00 size welding tip for it. Not the best weld in the world, certainly not the prettiest, but the door shuts and latched flawlessly. Like a new car. And it's my first time ever welding with gas. It was a 2 hour battle with tacking, checking alignment, cutting tacks, tacking, checking alignment again... Then warpage because the door metal is something like 18-20 ga. Drivers door looks terrible by comparison. Also, the window track had broken free from its bracket and pulled through the door.
    2 points
  5. I've decided to start a thread specifically for detailing the path to restoring the truck back to proper, full functioning condition. I replaced the radiator with a fully aluminum one that's welded and brazed. Ebay special, $225 shipped. Actually looks to be quite nice. Even has a proper threaded bung for the petcock. I also started work on the rear axle. All four bearings show pitting and damage. I found that both seals have been replaced before and the surfaces are both shot. They had been replaced with speedi sleeves and they were both worn. Drivers side, also with shot wheel cylinder. Pass side. Driver side Pass side One of the bolts that holds the axle shaft in simply snapped off.... I suspect it was over torqued the last time these were apart. Luckily, it backed right out with no fuss. One of the speedi sleeves..... Can anyone confirm that the speedi sleeve P# is 99287 for the D80?
    1 point
  6. He pours beer in that jar so the cops think it's apple juice and just go on by.
    1 point
  7. Requires more fuel in the morning to warm up so... I'd say change injectors and see what happens. Then next step
    1 point
  8. Thank you. The suspension alone was 96 hours of shop time with me and my daughter's BF. We did the whole thing in 4 weekends minus countless hours dialing it in after all was fabbed and assembled. Everything was just a collection of suspension fabrication parts, DOM tubing, off road coil over shocks and the like, pieced together by me. No instructions, nothing cut or pre-welded. The truck was only down for a total of 8 days and remained a daily driver during the week, between each weekends work. It's amazing what we got done each weekend but we also did it in a Commercial Machine & Fab shop, so we had lathes, mills, racks of steel material etc. It was actually double the 96 hours because there was two of us, we don't take breaks much and we were each doing something different at least half of the time. Countless other things have been upgraded as well. Next month is AMP steps, rebuild/re-gear both diffs with 4:10's, new friction material in the back and a 35 spline Detroit TrueTrac up front with Yukon CAD delete axles (both sides). It's my wife's truck and we've pretty much just driven it for the last 13 years. She says she'll never part with it so now I'm renewing/upgrading just about everything for way less than a new truck and it's actually really fun to drive. We have my 4th Gen for towing/hauling.
    1 point
  9. Another great find but our server is out of date. Till I can get updated this HTTP 3.0 is out of reach for me. HTTP 1.1 (Obsolete...) HTTP 2.0 (Currently using) HTTP 3.0 (Chrome and Google are ready!) The new protocol will make the site quicker. As you can see here... h3-q050 protocol.
    1 point
  10. I admire your tenacity. Couldn’t you have rented or borrowed a mig welder?
    1 point
  11. I really don't see any converter cycling in that video. I'm trying to make heads or tails of it, though to be honest. It looks like you take off from a stop, and at the 1-2 shift, it shifts, but then the tach jumps UP a few hundred rpm, and then back down, then back up a couple of times before continuing to rev up toward 3K. If I had to guess, based on this video, I'd say it was a 1-2-1-2 shuttle shift going on. What governor pressure solenoid is in the transmission? It also seems like a LOT of rpm going on for how fast you're accelerating. Where is your TV cable set? At what rpm is your WOT 1-2 shift point?
    1 point
  12. This thread has been dormant for a while but hey why not. I'll post a couple of mine. First one is me towing a fifth wheel for my son. The second, we were hauling hey for the cows. There are 44 bales just in the bed at about 50lbs each.
    1 point
  13. I've been trying to get the interior in order. My parts truck apparently has remote entry, and the wiring harness in the door is different apparently. The locks would not work at all. I stuffed some carpet padding in the seat. It looks terrible, but it actually sits level which is nice. I also put a piece of carpet between the foam and the springs. This is apparently a factory splice. It appears to be crimped and ultrasonically welded or something. It does not come apart easy and is wrapped in old school friction tape. Very very sticky friction tape that requires alcohol to get off your fingers. Driver side. On the driver side, the wires are the same. Pass side is different. You can do the entire thing with the harness still in the door if you have to. The original non remote entry lock wiring, driver side Remote entry wiring, driver side Non Remote, driver side Remote, driver side For the driver side, I made a splice at the window switch, since it connects to that wire anyway at the factory junction. Non remote, passenger side. Notice, the wires are in a different order. It will cause a short if you leave them. Non remote: Remote: 1. Orange w/ black 1. Orange w/ pink 2. Orange w/ purple 2. None 3. Red 3. Red 4. Pink w/ black 4. Pink w/ purple 5. Pick w/ purple 5. None Remote, pass side. On the passenger side, you have to connect to the speaker side of the harness as that's the only place to connect. I twisted the wires and twisted a few times around the main harness so it would stay together and then zip tied it. I tinned all the connections, and then went back with modern rubber friction tape. You could use butt splices', but I still have all the fancy stuff. Got the door panels back in. I apparently no longer have an intact drivers door pull for a 12 valve. The 24 valve has a different shaped and smaller one with a narrower screw pattern. I have a pass side pull, it's just not in. I have a big shop fan blowing in because the ac condensate drain wasn't attached properly so it put all the water in the carpet. Almost half a gallon, it was pouring out of the screw holes in the floor. I pulled the passenger seat... again, and am using a spare door panel to direct air under the carpet so it will dry in this 89% post hurricane humidity.
    1 point
  14. I must have missed the drag racing golden age. Unless it was a huge event like Drag Week, I have never seen stands with that many people in them. Back in Chattanooga, the dragstrip is about 5 miles away as the crow flies. I can hear them clearly enough to know if they had a good ET or something broke. In other news, the state birds have been trying to carry me off lately. Polished up the fog lights off the doner truck, the ones in the spare bumper, which you see here, have cracked lenses and are junk. Finally looking like a proper truck again. I think I like the body color sport grill more than the chrome. The doner are both in need of welding from years of sagging hinges. Unfortunately all too common in these. Still rather sparse inside, got to figure out which seats I'm going to use.
    1 point
  15. those LiL’ Red Express Trucks bring back memories
    1 point
  16. Got doors swapped, got the body panels aligned to some degree. Need to weld on the doors and figure out how the infinity stereo wiring works. Neighbor of mine, wants to sell me some of his old mopar stuff. He has 3 Little Red Expresses 2 C bodys, 2 B bodys, and 3 Dakota's, 1 Shelby, 2 Convertible, and a Orange 2004 Hemi GTX 1500 w/ 10k miles that still has new car smell. There is no telling what all else. Spent nearly two hours talking with him so I didn't get as much done on the truck, but I might get some cool stuff out of it. He's a retired geologist for Exxon. Diabetes is taking his legs.
    1 point
  17. The truck on the left is wishing it had cummins in it.
    1 point
  18. Decided to start moving panels over this weeked. I also figured that I would primmer the rust spots on the hoof and driver side fender from the doner. I went ahead and shot clear coat (all rattle can stuff) over the hood and where the clear is peeling off of the other body panels. I figure that when I go back and have a half decent paint job done, the clear and primmer will at least preserve it where it is for the time being rather than it continue to get worse. Battery acid really did a number on this one. I'm also not sure what that black and green discoloration is, I pressure washed it and it wasn't doing anything. I just wont worry about that for the time being. Seems like a good stopping point for the night. Mosquitoes were threatening to carry me away.
    1 point
  19. I'm finally picking up the parts truck from tennessee. 270k on the clock, bad trans, runs well and starts easy.
    1 point
  20. Used the truck for actual work today. The heat index was 108* and it was obscenely humid, it kept my nice and cool when I wasn't on the roof. The exhaust has stayed on for now as well. Cleaned up a bit from Laura and repaired the barn roof where it tried to peel it off like a tuna can. Old roof timbers in the bed. Woke up about 7 in the morning, looked out the window and the roof was in the process of rolling off. The winds were only about 30mph at the time with gusts of 50. Glad I did..... about 20 minutes after I finished, wind picked up to about 60 sustained, and 75+ gusts. I put the bucket of the tractor, and some heavy metal pieces, to keep it from doing the other 70 feet of the barn. The barn is very much pieced together and is well over twice my age. I'm not too worried about the holes in the tin, so long as it stays in place. Nothing under that part that can't handle some water.
    1 point
  21. I’m not sure. I’ll probably get some dynamate or something similar to put down first. Quiet down the cab a bit. It’s not to bad until I’m towing with overdrive off.
    1 point
  22. I was considering that honestly, but it cleaned up enough for me not to care. The diesels carpet is (was? maybe daimler changed that) different than the gas. I forget specifically. Maybe it's the jute, or the rubber, or maybe the thickness of said materials? Be aware before buying.
    1 point
  23. I thought about pulling my carpet out and pressure washing it but it has a hole next to the throttle pedal. Probably just buy a new one. Once it cools off over here.
    1 point
  24. So, this has happened about 4 times now. Took the truck for a little test ride about 1/8 mile down the road and back. Sitting in the driveway, and all of a sudden the truck gets louder. The first time, the whole muffler just dropped out where I parked. Second time, I just came disconnected from the front. Third time it came out like this. I got it back in, drove through gate to go to the pasture, and the tail section fell out of the back. This all started because I put the factory turbo/dp back in and it changed the position of the pipe about 4 inches forward. I think I'll be visiting a truck shop and seeing if they have any 4" straight sections for a decent price here soon. As a side note, I have maybe 2 hours of just putting around the pasture in the heat of the day and the A/C is fabulous. I'm not having the best of luck getting myself motivated to do ball joints. It needs them, but it hasn't been re registered yet so it's not like I'm taking loads down the highway just yet. Also from about 2 months ago, I pressure washed the carpet when I replaced the dash. It was very nasty. And the dash itself. I didn't realize at the time that there was a light and dark grey option, but having a dash that isn't disintegrating more than makes up for it.
    1 point
  25. Was playing with the he351ve, the vanes have a sticky spot in the very middle of the range. I suspect that some of the vanes have somehow bent just a bit. Not sure how, but it moves free when the cartridge is out. I haven't had it apart since 2014, and it worked fine then. Anyhow, set it in the corner and bolted the hx35w back on. Had to cut the bolts to the adapter out to get them to come out. If I decide to use it again, I think I'll just get a manifold with a T4 flange (T4i?). Going to work on ball joints this weekend.
    1 point
  26. Today, picked up my tires that a friend gave me, Milestar Patagonia M/T's in the 285/75/16 variety, he apparently wants to get rid of them because he wants to put 20's on his jeep...... Got one of the hubs together and brake assembled. Used dry ice to shrink the axle, slid right on. Spent too much time driving around to get much done. I did cut a hole in the installation cup for the sleeve. I'm almost certain that the wheel seals went out because the spindle nut wasn't torqued correctly and came loose and allowed the hub enough vertical play to carve the grooves. I saw no wear in the bearing, only minor pitting and a bit of a matte finish on some of the races. This truck is anything but cheap..... But, it should be in tip top shape once its done. Makes me wonder how many of those "mint" condition trucks going for $30,000 have drivetrain issues.
    1 point
  27. #99287 is what I used on a 2001 D80 with discs. You will need to modify the driver to install it -- cut a center hole to clear the spindle and drive with length of hollow tube. You might also check with local axle/truck repair and see if they do weld fill and remachining of spindle seal surfaces (portable lathe mounts to spindle and machines surface) if it is very worn (a speedi sleeve can only repair so much). Also cover the seal area with gray or black gasket maker before you set the sleeve (fills void for a better bearing surface support and stops back leaks). Gotta love those "oil cooled" brake shoes!
    1 point
  28. Appears to be factory width, I'll measure tomorrow, but, more than 2, less than 3 inches. It is a 3 core. Measured..... It is 2 1/16" thich. A worse picture, can see the three cores.....
    1 point
  29. Is that a three core? I can't quite tell by the picture. How thick is the total core width?
    1 point
  30. Well, the two studs that go into the rubber bits that go into the core support were about 3/8ths of an inch too wide, so I cut a bit of the rubber to make it work. The cap isn't the greatest, and it doesn't have the two little tabs that the fan shroud goes into on the lower part. As far as craftsmanship, it looks fairly decent besides the those little niggles. It isn't a Mishimoto(I think that's the company that makes the $700 one), but it looks perfectly acceptable, considering the price. It does have the studs that the battery cable screw onto. I'll post back once it has a few miles on it.
    1 point
  31. Let us know how the radiator works out
    1 point
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