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So i want to start doing my own tunes. anyone here have a direction for me? what's needed.

i have EFI from anarchy right now, it's good, by all means it's great.

but well i'm a tinkerer. so i'd like to delve into writing some tunes.

do i get a base file? like stock tuning?


do i get a flashscan v2?




I've tried reading as much as i can from EFI and MM3 but none really answer my questions as what i need to write my own tunes.

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It appears my booster is leaking inside the truck. Just a drip but I saw on the floor mat today. Rebuilding it does not look that difficult. What have some of you folks done for yours?
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I've got a weird one that just started up. First off I've got a brand new fan belt. I've check all pulleys and bearings. No loose bearing and all pulleys spin freely and grooves are clean. The noise is coming from only the A/C pulley. Turning on the A/C has no impact in the noise level. Now in all my messing around, I managed to get the belt to ride on top of the high points of the grooves for the A/C pulley and the noise was gone. So I took the time released the belt and made sure it was back down in the grooves again. Now the squeak returns. I've tried some of my older belts I kept for spares with no change. I've power washed all the pulleys with degreaser and solvent. No change. I've inspected the grooves for debris and clean all the pulleys. At least now with all the cleaning it reduced the volume of it a bit. Any ideas? 
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Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

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Does anyone know of a set of airbags that will work on a 99 2500 4wd that mount over the axle not the leaf springs (so I can keep my over loads) and they need to work with a goose neck or fifth wheel mount.
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Just around the corner gang...
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this coming wed, aug wed 16th at 6:30 pm alejandras in wilder which is near caldwell idaho.  http://idahoturbodiesels.com/topic/11216-august-2017-idaho-turbo-diesels-dinner-meet-wed-8-16-17/?tab=comments#comment-122840


idaho turbo diesels has been the organization for idaho's diesel enthusiast's since early 2002. our group meets for dinner and discussion the 3rd wed of every month and organizes wrench sessions, dyno day's, camping, offroad events, shooting events, and volunteers at projects throughout the surrounding communities to make idaho a more enjoyable place to be.


come join in on the fun. 

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Hey guys,

I cant find the thread I was reading where you all were talking about the PSG being the actual 65HP limitation /w the smarty or non wire tap programmers on the vp44. I got interested and I found a lot of info out there, primarily some french guys where I used google to translate. showing clips to read the 24 series eeprom with 3M clips. They eventually caught on that you could put 5v to one of the legs on the chip and make it no longer read-only (this is common, and I suspected it). Because their forum is invite only I couldnt download their diagrams or documentation they created. I also found some Indian website that showed how to read/write to the PSG /w an arduino, including wiring diagrams and so fourth. I cant find that in my history now either, but its in there somewhere. Anyways, here's the french lads that tackle read/write to the PSG. Every time they say "code", i think they mean "encrypted". I tried to join the French board but it seems to be invite only.
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I just got the iquadbt for my old adr seams to work okay can tune a little but doesn't show any timming and the gauges seam to freeze quite often. Also the analog part of the Guge is no where to be found. Any one seeen this befor? 
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I'd bet even Idaho is cooler today. Satilite picture shows a big push of marine air. We've needed this for at least a week as it's been very hot in Oregon too with smoke and humidity way up. Tough to sleep/work in that. This Sunday's coming rain will mark 57 days without rain is about average but I'm hoping it helps put out the fires burning all over the west.
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Hey guys I hope you can answer a simple (hopefully) question.


Lately I've noticed my pressures dropping on my DDRP.  I did some research and didn't realize there is the infamous ball and spring pressure relief in that model as well.  So I stretched the spring out a 1/4 inch like most recommend and now my pressures are pretty high.  At idle I'm around 24 psi and 17 at WOT.  Is 24 psi too high for idle or is it OK?  The ball looked to be in great shape unlike some of the deformed pics I've seen.


Thanks in advance.

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So, buddy of mine that I work with got a 95, 4x4, auto supposedly built for pulling trailers , 220k 8' box, regular cab. Title says gas, also brake booster doesn't seem to be hydraulic like on mine, it's round like on a gas truck but no vacume lines going to it or place for it. Anyhow it was leaking oil out front someplace and guy that was selling it just got it and decided to sell it, so it's a cat in a bag. I looked at it with him and gave him my . For $2900 it seemed like it was fixable and drove ok accept it seems to shift to od too soon and when flored doesn't kick down and seems to be hunting lock unlock. Front cover was soaked and dirty, seller said it was front seal or so he was told that by po. I said right of way that it seems like oil is coming from top someplace but who knows could be flinging of the crank upwards. Now that he's working on it he found this, see picture. His question, how much is he looking at to fix crap inside assuming worst case scenario. I'll update pictures as he sends them to me. Trying to get him to join this site, but I think he's already thinking of selling it. 
Edit: all gears seem fine, pin is missing, in the oil pan I guess. How important is it to put new pin in, it it only for assembly and now that the case is in place it will be fine or? On the case it self  I'm thinking jb weld? He feels better now that the gears look good. 
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As the title states, I while installing my Wicked Wheel on my HX35W I snapped the tip of the shaft off getting it tight. I know the instructions say to get it hand tight but it was seized and would not spin freely at all. The tighter I got it the looser it got and spun a little more freely until it snapped.   It's for a 99 manual truck. I'm not trying to buy anything that's not genuine, I would buy just the center piece but my exhaust housing has been rusted to the point where it will not budge and I need to clock it for the compound turbo setup. 
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2001 2500 6 speed manual, 390,000 miles. The truck runs until it hits operating temperature (190). It begins cutting out as if it wants to die. Release of pedal it idles fine, give it a few minutes to cool down and its fine until it reaches temperature. No codes (checked with OBD reader). Monitored APS voltage while driving, no voltage change when cutting out. After parking it, its fine until it reaches operating temp. While driving when it cuts out if I give it full throttle it bogs down wont go over 30 and blows white smoke.

Things I've recently done-
New lift pump/injection pump- 1 month ago 3,000 miles ago.

New fuel level sending unit/FASS draw straw with 1/2" fuel line to lift pump-This week 25 miles ago
New APPS- This week 5 miles ago- I had a code for low APPS voltage.

New Alternator-This week 5 miles ago- I had AC interference.
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My yearly test is coming up on Friday.  I have been working hard to figure out how much fuel I can throw at the truck without causing visible smoke.  


I am allowed %20 opacity on lug down tests at 40, 50, 60 mph.   


This will be the first year I have run the Quadzilla during the test.  I have my tune nailed down pretty well.  starting % of 76 seems to be where there is next to 0 visible smoke in any situtation.  Last year with the smarty on %50 power mode I ended up at %7 opacity, so I am guessing I am going to at in the 10%-15% range in the test.  I can turn down the fuel more, but I want to try and pass with as much fuel as possible.  It is also worth noting that I am runnning 900 us of wiretap as well, ramping up once boost hits 6 psi.


Next comes timing. 


1500 rpm: 16*

2000 rpm: 18*

2500 rpm: 22*

3000 rpm: 24*

Max: 26*


Timing reduction: 5* ( max timing to pull if at WOT and 0 psi, linear ramp up as boost comes up / TPS decreases) 

Fuel load timing: 2* ( how much timing to pull at 0% load, timing will reach the rpm limit if duration is at %100)

light throttle timing: 2* ( not really considered during the lug down test as they go WOT)



So questions,


the theory is you pull timing to reduce smoke offidle?  I have to say I ran 5 different tunes that were exactly the same other than timing reduction value, I honestly couldn't see any differences between WOT offilde at 11* of timing vs 16 * of timing.  little confused by that.  


Anyone have any insight in regards to what to do with timing to maximize fueling without increasing smoke?
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I just got a 1999 Dodge Cummins in the shop with a clutch issue. I got it pulled out today and this truck has a single disc ceramic clutch. The clutch has completely eaten a deep groove approximately 1/16" to nearly a 1/8" in the pressure plate and about 0.010 groove in the flywheel. Surprising there was zero hotspots in either face. The friction plate was still in good shape but it completely ruined the pressure plate and flywheel will need to be turned. This truck is stock for the most part other than Edge Juice tuner. So for those of you considering ceramic clutch I wouldn't advise it. As this happens to be the second ceramic clutch that the previous owner installed and neither of them last very long well the friction disc did but even the previous ate the flywheel. 
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Hi everyone I'm trying to sort out an fueling issue that is making me too scared to drive . 


I put a nice fresh engine in my "00 and I'm getting a pile of white smoke at idle and 1/4 throttle. It also sounds as if I have air in the injector lines at idle. 


The vp44 is one off my old engine with a p0216 code so I'm wondering if it's an injector that is damaged or if the vp is having problems fueling 150hp sticks?


I'm new to the Moparman site but I'm very impressed by this community thanks for the info and your time!

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Quadzilla Adrenaline Custom tuning In depth V2 Tuning
The Quadzilla Adrenaline allows for a significant amount of custom tuning to be done by the user to alter the way that the Quadzilla ADR commands fueling.    This gives the Quadzilla a significant advantage over other tuners on the market.#Mopar1973Man.Com
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@Mopar1973Man did you do some updates to the site in the past few days?  It looks much better tonight and more vibrant.  Luvin it



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