Mopar1973Man

Yeah the vacuum method works awesome if you have the rig to do that. I normal park the truck nose up slightly and remove the thermostat and go from there. When the coolant is just about to spill over then stuff the thermostat in and finish loading with coolant.

Either DAP or Vulcan Performance. Both sell Industrial Injection pumps and Dap sells also Midwest injection pump. Both companies are Bosch rebuilders for sure.

Went out and bought a Laser / IR temp gun. Measured the gearcase top to bottom after 120 miles of driving. The bottom measured out at 89*F and the top near the sensor / fill plug was 93*F. Again. Verified and running MUCH cooler than most after 120 miles of travel. VERIFIED also the fill plug is hotter than the bottom of the PTO cover by at least 5*F. Heat does rise. ISSPro EV2 gauge reports just 100*F because the temperature is deed below 100*F.

Idle MAP reading is 28.6 at idle and maxed out at 37.3 which is only 8 to 9 PSI of boost. Needs more than minus 14.7... Lol...

Umm... this is what I did back on the Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. Before even the Quadzilla or the +75HP injectors. The 245's let out more torque than the 235's did. This is nice because of fewer chances of breaking stuff again.

Still there is no replacement for good a-pillar gauge setup! Even I tend to favor the A-pillar ISSPro gauges over the Quadzilla Gauges.

I love the sleeper mode. "Ah, just a stock truck I can whip it." Yeah right. I actually hunt for 4th Gens with lift kits and minimum of 35" inch tires. Those jacked up 3rd and 4th gen I kill for fun. No problem. Surprises everyone when the tires let go and the truck is gone. Where did it go?!?! My design is all about shedding all the excessive drag and maximize my torque value. Which I've done.

30k miles or once a year would be best. Brake fluid is hygroscopic in other words absorbs moisture from the air. As the moisture level builds in the fluid the boiling point of the brake fluid goes down. Then the other side is more moisture the more oxidation it will do inside the plumbing. Again you need to open up the system and inspect not just push the debris into the bottom of the calipers. This is why bleeding should only happen after the calipers are cleaned and the system is already empty.

Just run it. It will come out in time. Typically I leave thermostat out during the time I'm filling with coolant to ensure that majority of the air is removed. Empty heater will have its own air to add.

Between the head gasket and property taxes coming due. I'm not going to be able to replace my injectors. Then Christmas coming I might not see injectors for quite a while. MPG is sliding backward some. I wonder if it can read our goofy MAP sensor correctly? Even the Quadzilla is close but not absolute on the mark.

When the calipers are removed and the pistons removed. Now remove the seal and test fit the piston back in the caliper. The piston should drop to the bottom without being PUSHED. If the piston is hanging up then you have to lightly sand off the caked up brake fluid or just replace the pistons. Just working the piston in and out doesn't remove the debris in the bottoms of the piston cylinders which will cause them to bind again. Like seen here the piston falls to the bottom easy without the seals in place. The only time I've seen brake hoses come to play is when people run brake fluid like a lifetime time fluid. Now the fluid is BLACK and the rubber has degraded from the excessive amount of moisture in the fluid. Now this debris is typically settling in the bottom of everything and the calipers and there is no amount of bleeding going to remove that. You need to open all 4 calipers and clean and check everything.

If you would have just changed out the brake fluid that would of all needed to be done. When the brake starts to absorb water from the air it starts to oxidize in the system causing the pistons to stick. So just changing brake fluid and disassembling the calipers and cleaning them out would have done way more good. The problem is all the debris is drop in the bottom of the caliper and the bleeder screw is on top.

Drop 1 or 2 degrees on the entire base timing.

The only factor that changed for sure is the cetane of the fuel being that higher cetane is going to ignite sooner and most likely gaining cylinder pressure with the colder air mixture. Wrapping my mind around that... Being the air is in the cylinder the entire time regardless of the fuel timing. Being the fuel is injected 30° of timing that coupled with high cetane fuel that burns faster and ignites earlier I'm going to bet more on that the fuel was lighting off way sooner than usual and cylinder pressures came up. Where with lower cetane fuel of the summertime tend to lag a bit more in ignition time. Hence why like myself I saw a good drop in MPG's when the cetane finally kicked in fully and then drop the timing 2° and now gain back the MPG's. Cold air I'm at +10°F in the morning and IAT is at roughly 62°F during this time. My max is 27° of timing. Just beyond that, I just start the bucking game.