Mopar1973Man

On the graph / logs section select one on the positions. Like I've selected the first one it will ask to select a PID. Do a search for Absolute throttle position.

@Macarena Man Could you shoot a picture of the power point and USB in the upper. I'm curious of the upper console. Does it say way Amp the USB is?

You'll see the same thing numerically. You'll watch the TPS signal and slowly squeeze the throttle and watch the percentage of TPS from 0 to 100 percent. Watching for sudden changes or jump in the signal.

Wrong values that is G force. It's attempting to measure the G force X, Y, or Z directions. You what Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

Either the exhaust is plugged or the exhaust manifold is cracked enough there isn't enough flow to get the turbo turbine to build boost. Boost leaks in the air system somewhere. Damage to the turbo, the turbine is damaged from excessive heat or broke the turbo shaft.

Plug in the OBDLink. Install the OBDLink App on your phone. Pair the bluetooth or hook up on the WiFi. Now monitor the TPS signal as you drive on your cellphone. Pretty simple. Hence why I've got the gooseneck in my truck. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/279-mobile-phone-gooseneck/#

I'm pretty sure its Midwest Injection.

Double checking... I still think your heater core link is displaced or install wrong. As you can see my line is back towards the block from the oil plug on the filter head.

Personally... AirDog 150 - Small package easy to tuck nearly anywhere out of the damage path of the tires. I'm at 12 years of age and heading for 13 years. 150 model has better pressure stability over a 100 series which typically has a wider range of pressure fall. More volume the better the pressure stability. To install any fuel system is going to require dropping the tank and installing a 1/2" draw straw of some sort. Other than that you'll end up cavitating the pump and creating air bubbles.Best to have 1/2" line from the tank all the way to the VP44. Best pressure stability you can have. Keep in mind you will want to keep the stock filter can for extra filtration. Vulcan Performance sells the Big line kit for this. I ran into this problem as well with my AirDog I was running out of time and needed the truck. So I installed the pump and used the stock pickup basket this resulted in big drops of pressure during heavy throttle like pulling a grade. I'm not fond of the mechanical belt driven pumps. If you don't keep an electric primer pump you'll never get it started again unless you can spin the mechanical pump with a drill or something to prime the system again. This creates extra plumbing nightmare with check valves and tees to include the stock pump again. Lot of people like the belt driven because pressure rises with RPM. You have to remember this is strictly a pump. No air separation, no water separator, no extra filter. Like both AirDog and FASS you can get 3um filters. Basically stuck with stock filters. FASS I've installed a few of these and I'm not impressed. Extremely large pump and filter assembly nearly twice as big as the AirDog. This limits the install to basically where the manual suggest hanging it off the front bed bolt. This places the filters in the damage path and tends to get struck from all the road debris. The one I installed locally has way more issues with gelling fuel in the winter time than my truck. If seen a few local ranchers out here stuck in the backcountry because the filters got yanked off my logs, rocks and hitting the ground while being offroad. 13 years of hanging here... So old now the AirDog label fell off

Here you go gang... How to remove the VP44 the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to do this much. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the air horn bolts and dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm loosen the top clamp of the boost boot. Move everything out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal...

Here you go gang... How to remove the VP44 the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to do this much. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the air horn bolts and dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm loosen the top clamp of the boost boot. Move everything out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal... View full Cummins article

I buy mine from DAP. DAP sells both Midwest Injection and Industrial Injection VP44 pumps. Vulcan Performance is another safe bet also sells Industrial Injection.

AC noise can impact the throttle signal. Like on my truck with a manual it creates a surgy cruise control or using normal throttle it feels like you not holding your foot still even though the TPS signal says otherwise. This is because the AC noise muddy the tach signal from the engine and ECM starts changing fueling commands because of the noise in the tach signal.

After going out and looking at my truck and comparing the picture to what I'm looking at that compressor housing has to HUGE. If the heater core line is bolted down in stock placement there isn't much you can do other than possibly dent the line where the compressor housing would hit.

Simple just make a classified wanting to buy or WANTED.