Mopar1973Man

I've got a client that lost a bolt from the rear caliper what happen is the caliper grabbed the rear wheel pulled the remaining mount hard enough that the broke the lower mounting ear for the caliper frame. And here is the part number list... 52010141AC which has been replaced by 52010141AG. Here is the part... https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-plate-parking-brake~52010141ac.html Now wish me luck on this repair...

Well I've got a good 25 to 35 years left on me I might have another truck before then.

Amen Brother!!! You all know I've lost my parents... Just like you said you can't take it all with you.

Yes. It just fire protection if the alternator shorts out. Make sure your cable is up to the task too. Upgrade to heavier cable would be a bonus.

Yes hot wiring would remove the ECM from the running. The VP44 will only idle. If you had the black box it would have a high idle switch.

Agreed we just got slammed with snow and now flip to bright sunny day reaching 59*F Riggins.

Make sure to drive the truck a good 10 minutes and test again. Grid heaters running will make the number inflated. You will always gain more noise at high loads IIRC the test stands in part store typically fail somewhere at 1.1 to 1.4 volts AC at full load. Lowest number here is best.

Oh there a lot of us out here that have no belief in the Green New Deal to fix the world's problems. Tell our government to disband these HAARP stations.

Yours held up quite well my friend mine on the other had gave up. I've still got my factor power steering pump I might tear it down and see about fixing my OEM pump which work wonderful all these hundreds of thousands miles.

Your always a friend here... If you just need a ear to listen to let you vent my phone is always their for you. No matter what happens you have tfriends here and we are still here to help out with anything.

The sad part is someone as a member here or members have had this kind of problem. Hence we post about it and share what is going on and create articles so we don't forget how to fix said issues. This what makes M73M different from other web forums. We work to solve puzzles and then save the solution to the said puzzle as an article. That way other members that find their selves in this issue have a much greater chance of fixing said issues.

Boise, ID will be like 63*F on Thursday... Up here in New Meadows be close to 59*F by Thursday. The part that worries me is the sudden change is weather and possible flooding might occur or mudslides.

Remember fuses... ALWAYS CARE SPARES! Stock ND or Bosch alternator is rated for only 136A DC. Like my friend Russ I did the W-T ground mod on his truck. First started with 150A circuit breaker. He burned that one up. Then I swapped mine in known mine works correctly. Burned it up too. Then swapped to a fuse he blew the fuse on the alternator left him stuck. I had to order more fuses. Once I did he managed to blow one more fuse before I figure out his batteries where dead and he was doing long pulls with his winch and never allowing the batteries to catch up. Then the a

Injectors are not properly pop tested. Injectors installed incorrectly causing pressure leaks in the head. When you installed the injectors what did you tighten first the cross over tube or the injector hold down cap? Correct Answer is Crossover Tubes always first light seat the tubes into the injectors before pinning the injector down with the hold down cap. Once you tightened the hold down cap first then the injector can't self center to make a good seal on the cross over tube. Did you have the injectors pop tested and flow matched? Good idea

I went the extra step and relocated the pressure sensor to fender adding 5 feet of 1/8" air brake line to allow for more fade time for the pulse to reach the sender.