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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Nv4500 transmission 3.55 gears 245/75 R16 tires 66 MPH is exactly 2k RPM 82 MPH is exactly 2.5k RPM. Final to the ground is 3.69:1.
  2. Simple and main computers ground do not go to body metal in stock form. ECM, PCM, and VP44 are all on the passenger ground cable. After the W-T mod the computer will not be on the passenger battery but the gear near the VP44. All other subsystems ground to body metal. Like ABS grounds near the driver side headlight.
  3. Get some fluid from both the transmission and transfer case the one with glitter is the bad one.
  4. Actually it does still turn while unlocked. The shaft rotates slower but still it will turn. Does on my 1996 Dodge with CAD axle.
  5. Next time I see you @JAG1 I'll drop an manifold bolt in your intercooler.
  6. Don't have to do the other grounds because the W-T mod will relocate the grounds. That would be a waste of time cleaning up the old ground to relocate to a new place which will force you to create a new clean ground.
  7. My video is still around on the youtube channel. Just hang the whole assembly and pump hard and fast in on the slave cylinder and then slowly let it out. Slower the better that way you don't draw air back down from the reservoir.
  8. There was another member here with the exact same issue. DTT transmission with stalling. Everyone swore the torque converter was the problem. Nope. He had his injectors sent back to DAP and had then popped for 325 bar IIRC. The stalling issues STOPPED completely. The pop pressure was too low making the injection event too early and the engine could not recover quick enough so it stalls. After @pepsi71oceanupped the pop pressure his stalling quit. Might take ot him and ask him for more details of what he's done. Like my truck I had a set of +75 HP 7 x 0.0085 SAC injectors after a lo
  9. Most pre-bled kits will cost you extra. Then there is roughly 1 and 10 chance that it work out of the box. So many times I've gotten pre-bled and have to pull the system back out and rebled the master and slave over again. The problem is with shipping and handling did any air travel back into the master? etc. The last one I got from Valair worked out of the box but late... I had to pump the pedal several times to work some small amount of air out. This is installed on the 2006 Dodge. I did one for Russ truck last winter and it was a prebled as well. PITA to get adjusted to prevent
  10. I've never been a huge follower of oil studies. Typically the results go to the big brand names, AMSOil, RedLine, etc. There is other oil studies done here that people gone a long ways without big brand oil. Take to @cajflynn 1.3 Million miles and Never used any synthetic oils ever not to mention changed oil every 20k miles. Then there was @dorkweedthat ran over 84k miles on Walmart SuperTech Universal Diesel Oil 15w-40 and tested every 7k miles. Not to say the tested oils are bad but don't discount others. Seeing members running past 1 MILLION MILES mark and not using high dollar
  11. Popped too low in pressure id your rising above 800 RPM at all. All Cummins ISB engine idle at 800 RPM. The only way to increase idle speed is to drop the pop pressure below 290 bar. Then to show the specs even Dodge FSM specs say 293 bar is bottom. Like my OEM stock injectors tested out at 260 bar at 120k miles. The idle was 850 RPM. Span plus or minus... 4500 - 250 = 4250 4500 + 250 = 4750 PSI to Bar 4500 PSI = 310 Bar stock 4250 PSI = 293 Bar 4750 PSI = 327 Bar Proper injectors should hover with +/- 10 RPM from 800 R
  12. Your is done. Worn out... Should not be signs of rust and moisture which you have this master is cooked and no longer good. While you at is order a new clutch safety switch from RockAuto. Once your up around 400k miles that switch will die.
  13. What sized tires are you running and what is your axle ratio? This is what makes or breaks a good setup. You need optimally after tires and wheels 3.55 to 3.73 final ratio to the ground. I've got 3.55 gears but with the 245/75 R16 tires my final ratio is 3.69:1 to the ground. Then I'm not running a monster huge turbo but a Hybrid HX35/40 which is (60/60/12). Speed wise I'm at perfect 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH and then at 2,500 RPM I'm doing 82 MPH this is a good proper ratio. Let's say with NV4500 transmission I'm in 4th gear (1:1 direct) by 25 to 30 MPH. Most go up to 35 i
  14. What is the engine load in park or neutral? What is your idle speed in park? What pop pressure were the injectors set to?
  15. Some version do have a relay and fuse. Then like the DDRP typically don't the plug directly into the ECM which when it does lock the motor up it burns up the ECM circuit. Typically the relay is mounted on the cowl (at least I do this)
  16. Yeah common for Raptors. The bearing and seal fail and pumps diesel into the motor then locks up and blows the fuse. Only solution is replacement... My 3rd Gen AirDog 150 died the same way. When you call for a new pump ask for the 4th gen pump the bearings and seal is upgraded.
  17. Are you getting fuel from a farm tank or similar? Really common out here the farm tank gather water and all kind of issues can come with it. Check with your local fuel station to see if they run water blocking filters on their pumps. I know my local Chevron does have water blocking filters. Check for air leaks as well. I just got done with @Jthorinjectors went down to the dump to ditch the trash in the bed. We had less than 1/4 tank and got up on the top of the pad short climb and it was lopey. Shut it down and looked around nothing leaking out or anything. Dump the tr
  18. Just for info... From the part number book.
  19. With all this being said, how were people achieving 45psi on a 64mm with stock or 90 horse injectors?? I'm running 7 x 0.010 +150 HP DAP injectors these are popped to 320 bar not 305 bar. HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) this so close ot the same as HE351 except my is a 12cm2 housing not a 9cm2... Then my latest tune which is using all the timing available. 3,000 RPM is set at 29.5 degrees. Turbo is capable of about 45 to 49 (absolute MAX). I know this is not optimal for me but... Boost leaks are not SUPER CRITICAL like 99% of the people make it out to be. You can have an
  20. Like my run yesterday I used a screwdriver to arc the solenoid stud and the positive stud to test the starter. If the starter is good then... Starter Relay in the PDC swap with a another like fuel heater. Starter Solenoid fuse (test with a ohm meter I've seen these crack and fail.. looks fine but no connection.)
  21. Just has done a rescue call yesterday for a Jeep. Key on the dash lights up and headlights are bright. Hit the key and it black no click. Changed the battery it started right up. William has AAA and the AAA told him the battery is good starter was bad. No where correct. The battery has a cracked bus bar and is opening up under load. Change the battery it started right up.
  22. Yeah just to prove the boost leak I unhooked the waste gate hose left it open then pulled one manifold bolt I only lost 5 psi total from 45 as a top. Noise very audible but no real change in EGTs. I've had a bolt blow out one before towing but no big issue. Here the air blowing out and still drove home.
  23. Yeah under that cover should be a weighted latch make sure the weight moves freely and not sticking.
  24. Just another example I rode along with my buddy Sean Davis to Lewiston so he could have stitches pull from surgery on his shoulder. We went in his Chevy truck and he's running big over sized tires. Front axle was aligned. Front tires are cupping bad and shaking the steering wheel. The tire shop thinks the front shocks are wiped out so we had the rotated and move the problem to the rear and still bad. Like I told Sean should had them re-balance the tires. So at some point today I'll be installing shock on the front of his truck.
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