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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Typically under the cab. Ive seen a few stuffed in the passenger fender.
  2. Some needs to keep up on the coolant changes. Freeze plug only go bad if the coolant is change often enough. Once the coolant ages then the soft metals like freeze plug are the first to go. Go job on getting that plug stuff in that hole. But yeah mine gave up on that very corner. Head curl. Sorry on the head gasket. I tend to not think about the freeze plugs being I do keep up on the coolant changes and there is virtually no rust in my system. Just surface rust from being exposed to the air.
  3. The only thing I can think of is the pump is just tired out and possibly pushing debris through the system. I would replace the pump and then blow out all the device backwards. So blowing back through the steering box on the return side to push anything out of the power valve. Then the same with the hydrobooster blow it out on the return side. Hopefully you find the reason for low pressure either a restriction or pump issue. I would change and flush the fluid on that system too. The steering box along could hold up to close to quart. Plus the 3rd gens have that small cooler it holds quite a bi
  4. I've gotta ask what size tires? Then do you know if you got a quick ratio box or standard ratio steering box? If your running oversized tire make sure to have only the standard ratio steering box. Quick ratio will have too mush stress and more prone to steering box failures. Quick ratio is not design for larger tires. What color is the ATF in the reservoir? Bright red or darken? Do realize that the steering system is complete designed by Ford. (Truth!) Hence why all truck after 2003 switched out all the Sagnaw steering box, hydrobooster, and power steering fluid to For
  5. I would bypass even the factory lighting being it low quality any ways. Way too much options out in the LED world that product way more light for a fraction of the power required. When you taking the fuses for tail lights and marker light and changing to a 5A instead of 20A fuse. Yup. My PIAA LED driving light only draw barely 1.5A for two 18w LED light that happen to be brighter than my Morimoto HID's which is barely 3A draw. Just compare the factory headlight have a 15A fuse per side, then my old seal beam fog light required a 20A fuse for just two bulbs to be lit. Be
  6. How deep are you dipping retard in your timing? Watch the timing value and tell me the lowest you see when you get into the throttle part way. Basically if you retard the timing you are adding more flame front to the turbo. Spools much easier. I'm only +50 behind you with 7 x 0.10 injectors. Turbo isn't as big (60/60/12) vs yours (63/74/12) so you going to need more retarded timing long to get the turbo spooled up. Once spooled to about 5 PSI then you can start flipping back to advanced timing. I would go for 200 HP injector...
  7. Wow. I better stop power washing my engine, underside and the truck body after 18 years. I've gotten the BHAF wet a few times to. No issues. Not like soaked in water but slash from road ways or indirectly spray while washing the engine down.
  8. That would be my call right there asking if Module Master would do it or Auto Computer Specialist out of Florida.
  9. Try this fuel map and see how it performs... This most daily driver style. More stockish on the streets till you lay down and build above 15 PSI then its off to the races. I'm not sure what your normal cruising boost is like. Then Timing wise start at 13° and go up by +5.5°... 13.0°, 18.5°, 24.0° then 29.5° this should work really good for 6 x 0.013 injectors.
  10. Not quite. If you cut the filter media out and laid it out flat the BHAF is MUCH larger over the panel filter being each pleat is wider so when flatten out nad measured the BHAF is much bigger than what your numbers are. You can't just measure the outside and do math you need to cut the media out of an old filter and measure the actual media on a flat plane not all folded up in pleats.
  11. Basically the optimal plan is to get both the CANBus and the Wiretap set for the same starting point and rise together to the end of the +30 PSI map. Anyone setting it for 5 PSI is wasting fuel for the most part because of the adding wire tap so low. Wire tap should not be in your daily driving zone. Like me for where I live I need at least 0 to 15 PSI for daily driving zone so everything above 15 PSI the CANBus fuel and wiretap ramp up together is is way more power than starting the wire tap at 5 PSI and ramping up over a wider bandwidth. 0 PSI to 5 PSI is 80 to 100% (Defuel smok
  12. Why? In all the years of running a BHAF I've never got the filter minder to move. The only way it will suck in the media is if you plug the media with enough dust and or water to seal the media and cause it to pull into the turbo. My rule of thumb is if the media inside is starting to discolor then its time to replace. About every 150k miles or so. 430k miles and rolling.
  13. It's based off of watch engine load as you travel and engine oil temperature. High engine load means the the timing is not efficient or excessive drag. If you oil temp starts to creep up that mean there is more flame front on the cylinder walls heating the coolant and oil. Typically to advanced. Now you can advance timing by having washout injectors that are popped too low <300 bar. The more you get close to the actually desired timing the engine load will drop and the engine oil temp will drop. More energy is produced into work and less into coolant or oil heat. Any kind of excessive heat
  14. Best to jack up the axle in the front so the tires are off the ground. Now if the reservoir is full the go from lock to lock WITHOUT the engine running. The movement of the piston in the steering box will pump the fluid back out the return like to the reservoir. You'll be able to look in and see the foam pump out just with the steering going lock to lock.
  15. Vulcan no longer produces the Jeep Liberty modules or deal with that older module style. Here is the DAP link... https://www.dieselautopower.com/vpmax-mfm2-modified-fuel-module-98-04-with-draw-tube-installed?Category_Code=
  16. If the fluid is foamy after running your too low and do have air trapped in the system. You could start it up and purge it out then you have to shut down till the foam goes away typically about 30 minutes or so. If you continue to drive the truck it will eventually go away but the steering and brake performance will be reduced being air does compress so the system is degraded till the air is purge out of the fluid.
  17. Not to ... Like myself I've just lost my fuel gauge as well. Mine I found my issue was the pin on the module had rotted away. I'm got a fuel sender basket coming from DAP. I gotta say thanks to both @JAG1 and @IBMobile for trying to help. I gave JAG1 a call and he passed it down the pipe to IBMobile. Funny I didn't know that RockAuto had the stock sender in stock. Which is part number 04897668AF (Mopar). After looking at it and what I order from DAP. Sad to say DAP was over 30 dollar saving vs. RockAuto. The DAP sender is a the modified with the draw straw as well. I can try the st
  18. Sorry I've got no idea on the Allen screw but I can most likely assure you that the Allen screw is metric. As for the ECM WTS light is dead clue being it did not come on the ECM is not booting up.
  19. Yes the actual fractional value is use. The display when you look after editing will be round up. But when you go back to edit its still storing the fractional amount so that is what it does use for the values.
  20. Finally I've known of this upgrade for quite some time being I've done the beta test on it and still using mine. The iQuad head has both WiFi and Bluetooth both. Mine has been working way better than previous version.
  21. You can it not the hot rod pump fuel matters which it really doesn't it the fact that Hot Rod pump are advanced mechanically in timing. It the fact you 'll always have to calculate in that offset just like I've got to calculate the offset of timing because of the 320 bar injectors. This makes my timing late so I got to add more timing than normal. You will have to retard more than normal. Again its not the fuel part being it only an extra 21 HP you gaining.
  22. Did you just measure the filter or did you flatten them out? If you to cut the BHAF and lay the filter media out flat it much larger compared to the panel filter square inches.
  23. 180 HP gain is what Quadzilla claims is possible with stock engine and just the stock injectors. I would skip the RV275s and move on to a +50 HP injectors that are flow matched and pop tested all with a narrow margin than running 6 random injectors. Remember RV275's are technical stock injectors yet. The ISB Cummins for motorhomes used those RV275 injectors for stock. Least when you step up to +50HP your now on a performance built injectors with more pintle lift, matched pressures and flows. Cell phone or cheap Android tablet. Personally, I like the analog gauges like
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