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Cummins Article Comments posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Depends on the fuse holder. I used a 150A circuit breaker off of Amazon and zero issues. Now my old shop landlord had a circuit breaker which he burned up two. the proceeded to blow two fuses on the alternator. This was due to batteries being weak. 


    This is not the exact one I got. But there is a link...





  2. 10 hours ago, Andyba20 said:

    Would a 200A fuse be ok for a 180A Nations alternator?

    Yes. It just fire protection if the alternator shorts out. Make sure your cable is up to the task too. Upgrade to heavier cable would be a bonus.

    • Like 1
  3. Remember fuses... ALWAYS CARE SPARES!


    Stock ND or Bosch alternator is rated for only 136A DC. 


    Like my friend Russ I did the W-T ground mod on his truck. First started with 150A circuit breaker. He burned that one up. Then I swapped mine in known mine works correctly. Burned it up too. Then swapped to a fuse he blew the fuse on the alternator left him stuck. I had to order more fuses. Once I did he managed to blow one more fuse before I figure out his batteries where dead and he was doing long pulls with his winch and never allowing the batteries to catch up. Then the alternator attempt to hold the voltage at 14.3 or so but the winch draws more than the batteries and alternator could provide. The wattage load is not changing at this point while the winch is running for so under normal conditions its a 4,350 watt load, which now add in the weak batteries so the voltage falls to 10 volts or so now do the math... So instead of 300 amp to run the winch it jumps up to 435 amp because the batteries are weak and then the current draw on the alternator maxes out and POP goes the breaker or fuse. This is not the alternators fault... It the dead batteries that cause it. The alternator job was never to try and hold the entire electrical load. Its the batteries job to hold the entire electrical load but the job of the alternator is when the loads are reduced to recharge the batteries again. 


    Gotta remember not to long ago the 1970's vehicles (Dodge Cars and Trucks) only had either 45A alternator or 60A alternator. 

  4. 1 minute ago, Joe_Pool said:

    Pistons and seals are also available from Rock Auto.

    Last time I order a set of kits for seals and dust boots it was like $20 an axle to rebuild the calipers from RockAuto way cheaper than buying reman'ed caliper. 

  5. I will add that I've done many of these now. Seriously it way easier to do it in a full removed HVAC and best to do it them without all the troubles of working in tight quarters between the transmission hump and the HVAC case. Make sure you reindex the gears inside the stepper motor. If not it creates all kind of weirdness too. 

    • Thanks 1
  6. 39 minutes ago, Jarrett2533 said:

    I want to go ahead and replace all of the actuators, three pneumatic ones. Their part numbers are: 0830321, 074024, 07730217 but am having trouble finding these parts online, any advice?


    Much thanks from Houston, Texas


    Might want to post in the forum for better exposure.


  7. It about the oil part. We want to increase lubricity without increasing the cost. No, you don't have to have the most expensive oil and highly suggested not to use synthetic oils. WalMart SuperTech is common cheap answer to the problem and will not harm the fuel system or injectors.

  8. 58 minutes ago, 24valvematt said:

    The pictures seem to not be there anymore! This is something I am looking at doing!


    You'll have to PM the author. Most likely they where on Photobucket and Photobucket shutdown their free access. Sorry...

    • Thanks 1
  9. 2 hours ago, JDHudsn said:

    if my clutch feels spongy should I bleed and see if that’s a remedy?


    A spongy clutch pedal is a sign of air in the system. You have to pull the entire system out ot bleed it. There is a large loop that is above the reservoir height so it common for air bubbles to hang in that loop. The only way to get them out is to remove it, hang the system, then bleed it. 

    2 hours ago, JDHudsn said:

    Upgrade and get a new one since I upgraded to the dual disk? Thinking I need an adjustable one since I have to burry the clutch in the floor to disengage.


    Highly suggest against the upgrade. Way too many people play with the adjust and hyperextend the throwout bearing past the pressure plate fingers trying to make up for poorly bleed clutch system with air. 

    • Thanks 1


    3 CYL is basically used for fast warm up. 


    6 CYL can be used for any time you need high idle for other power accessories like maybe a winch or other heavy electrical loads. Warm up or cool down of the cabin. Jump-starting vehicles. 


    The original design was because of working with the fire dept and need to keep the idle up for the alternator and all my emergency lighting. Then if we had people at the scene that we needed to keep warm or cool the truck was capable of keeping the cabin temperature much better than normal curb idle where engine temperature could fall quite a bit with a heater going. 

  11. I've added just a bit of rearward angle so the tip of the down pipe is rest on the back side of the bell housing. This way the oil if any drip doesn't drip on the starter.

  12. 32 minutes ago, notlimah said:

    So the front pipe on mine that goes down to the top of the vent is a lot closer to the intercooler pipe. I can't get it any further back no matter what I do to the PVC. Is it ok if it's really close or even occasionally touching?


    That doesn't even make any sense. Intercooler pipe is way off to the right the front pipe goes down in the gear case face to the cover where the VP44 nut is. The final vent should be all the way back behind the bell housing of the transmission. I would have to see a picture of your set up.

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