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04Mach1

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04Mach1 last won the day on January 16 2015

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    Grants, NM

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  1. And while you're working on the vehicles don't forget...
  2. 04Mach1

    My daughter....

    thinks daddy needs a new pony To join this one...
  3. Good point... Spinner filters are considered by-pass filters even though they use no filtering media. I know with the perseverance you have with dino oils there will be no way to convince otherwise. I was skeptical of synthetic engine oils about 15 years ago and thought it was just overpriced oil but after repeatedly seeing nothing but benefits with synthetics I made the switch and have never looked back. The only vehicle I own that still has dino oil is the 97 12 valve but it too will soon have Rotella T6 when I ever decide to repair some external oil leaks. Synthetic oil is expensive because you get what you pay for.
  4. My point was this how an EPA13 level emissions engine overhead with mid life mileage looked without an overnight drain and was 20k past its petroleum oil drain spec. This engine is factory equipped with a centrifugal (spinner) oil filter also. No by-pass filters were on it.
  5. 04Mach1

    Best batteries for our trucks

    I've been visiting the University of Google researching battery technology since this thread started and have found information is biased according to what the person writing the information preferred personally... My curiosity is peaked on batteries now so I'm gonna keep looking for science backed facts to determine the best battery depending on application. I know I've been noticing alot of newer RVs using AGM for the house batteries and with idle laws being enacted in various states class 8 trucks are utilizing AGM for auxiliary batteries. Most of the time starting batteries are still standard lead acid batteries in RVs and class 8 rigs. The lead acid batteries typically only last about 3 years at most in a class 8 rig. The Optima yellow tops in the 01 are about 6 or 7 years old now and I'm curious about their state of health so I'll load testing them soon. I'll have to post up results.
  6. The top end of a 2015 Paccar MX-13 engine just after valve cover removal with 425,xxx miles on the engine and owner said about 60,000 on the 5W-30 Mobil Delvac 1 ESP. I didn't even know Mobil made it in that weight of oil. I just did a routine overhead adjustment it and I was happy I didn't have to spend 3 days scrubbing soot stain out of my hands and wrists. All diesel oil clean well because of the amount of detergents in them but in my professional opinion synthetics ability to keep the internal engine clean is superior especially in emission diesel engines.
  7. The oem dash oil pressure gauge in pretty much every light duty automobile is just there to give the driver a nice warm fuzzy feeling that the engine has good oil pressure. On a Dodge there are only 3 factory gauges I would trust and they are fuel level, tach, and speedometer. A quality aftermarket gauge will give more realistic pressures. On a stock 6BT I would expect to see 40-50 psi oil pressure at idle operating temperature if I was diagnosing oil pressure issues. 70 psi at operating temperature is definitely higher than I've ever seen on any B Series Cummins.
  8. In case your find the muffler bearing worn out...
  9. Here's a coupon if anybody needs it.
  10. Main filters I've seen rebranded was P550949 which some paint scraping will reveal Fleetgaurd LF14000NN under the Donaldson paint. Then the P552200; which revealed Fleetgaurd FF2200 under the Donaldson paint. Then P555686 found Fleetgaurd FF5686 under the Donaldson paint. Come to think of it I have only seen Donaldson rebrand the filters mainly used on the big red Cummins ISX engines. One time when working on a N14 I saw a P553000 that had a spec of bright red paint showing through, sure enough a light scraping and the Baldwin logo and part number of BD103 was revealed. The only reason I remember these is Donaldson was trying to set our shop up with Donaldson filters and while we did stock some we recorded odd ball stuff with Donaldson filters until we ultimately decided to make Luber Finer our primarily stocked filter brand. We never really saw any filtration issues with Donaldson but we found the rebranding odd.
  11. I've seen many instances where Fleetgaurd and Baldwin filters were repainted in the Donaldson colors and got Donaldson part numbers. Accidentally taking paint of the filter with tools is what made me notice this. I'll have to take a picture next time I find a filter that Donaldson rebranded and marketed as their own. I have found the price point on Baldwin and Fleetgaurd is pretty good, I can get my LF16035 oil filter for about $5.00 most of the time through my contacts. I've never really researched Donaldson pricing but if they are rebranding competitors filters I would just rather get the competitors filter.
  12. It's done. 16 hours labor total for the repair is what it took me. I'm not sure what a place that specializes in RV repair would have charged.
  13. I would have probably charged about 35 hours of labor if the head had to come off.
  14. I've pretty much gotten to all I'll use on my Cummins pick-ups is Fleetgaurd and sometimes Baldwin, in a pinch I'll settle for Luber Finer. Donaldson air filters are good but I don't care for their oil and fuel filtration products. For the Ford vehicles I will usually go with Motorcraft, and for the GM vehicles I'll go with AC Delco. I've never been a fan of Fram or the parts store main stock specials like Wix, STP, MicroGard, etc...
  15. Any body that's worked on a pusher RV probably knows how big of a pain in the arse they are to work on. Anyway I had a doozy of a time diagnosing a major coolant leak on a 2012 Cummins ISC with 46,000 miles today with only having a 2 foot by 2 foot hole in the floor in the bathroom to access the top of the engine. I started off by applying air pressure to the radiator with a pressure tester. The system of course would not hold pressure and air leaking very audibly somewhere on top of the engine. I removed the EGR cooler and pressure tested in a tub of water. A crack in the EGR cooler case was found doing the pressure test. I installed a new Cummins updated EGR cooler and pressure tested again. System held 15 lbs of air pressure for over an hour. I filled the cooling system with fresh Red Extended Life coolant and started the engine. All was well until about 150 degrees and I had a river of cherry Kool aid coming out again. I shut down the engine and pressurized the cooling system which again was not holding pressure. Could again hear air leaking at the top end of the engine. My worst fear was a head gasket. I removed the EGR cooler again and rigged up the cooling system plumbing to by-pass the EGR cooler and applied air pressure to the cooling system. What I found was two 7/8" expansion plugs leaking on the head. The best I can figure is poorly maintained cooling system caused the freeze plugs to start leaking since the max coolant temp the engine saw was 224*F so overheating was not the issue that caused the expansion plug failure. Hopefully Cummins will get me the plugs and exhaust manifold gaskets by tomorrow morning and the RV will be on the road on it's way to California.
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