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04Mach1 last won the day on January 16 2015

04Mach1 had the most liked content!

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    Grants, NM

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  1. While the only parent bore diesel engines that I know of requiring DCA4 additive being the Navistar T444E (aka 7.3 Powerstroke) and the Navistar VT365 (aka 6.0 Powerstroke) I run Fleetguard ES Compleat in all 3 Cummins pick ups I own. I monitor the coolant every oil change. I have been very happy with the Navistar engine blocks when the owners took care of the molybdate and nitrite content which is what DCA4 treats. The water jackets still looked like brand new cast iron with zero electrolysis or cavitation of the cylinder walls. As for an engine builder the only person I trust is myself so I would build it myself. I don't know if that is an option for you. I have used Reviva Engines a few times. Their quality is top notch. CLICK HERE
  2. I've never thought about using air brake tubing. Its a great idea. Brake tubing is definitely worthy of fuel and oil since most newer OTR trucks now days use it for fuel lines. Also heat does not seem to degrade it quickly.
  3. Agreed on mechanical gauges being the most accurate. The only issue I have with mechanical gauges is the liquid lines getting brittle and possibly breaking inside the cab. That's my worst fear is the interior of one of my vehicles flooded with fuel or oil from a broken gauge hose. Of course this is coming from someone that has lived in the high New Mexico desert most of his life where everything sun rots from the bright sun and heat.
  4. Edited because I remembered the tool is called a manometer. Blow by testing . Every engine is different and has a different spec. No engine has zero blow by.
  5. Vehicle: Sylvia Category: 2nd Generation Date Added: 2018-06-17 Sylvia
  6. Blow by can be measured with a special water tube tool... I forget what the tool is called. The only engine that I've seen fail the test was a DT466 with a bad air compressor. The 07 5.9 I posted about had broken rings on pistons 1 and 4 but still did not present a blow by issue just dead cylinders.
  7. Exactly on point with opinions. As I stated you can't go wrong with either Fass or Airdog. I like both but I like how Airdog makes the full kit with .50" fuel lines that bypass the factory canister filter for right around $600. Fass is a great brand also. Both brands will be an upgrade to what is on the truck now. If I needed a new lift pump and was on a tight budget I would definitely consider the Airdog FRRP Raptor or the Fass DDRP and do the Relay Mod.
  8. https://www.ebay.com/p/AirDog-Fuel-Pump-System-100gph-98-5-04-Dodge-Cummins-5-9l-I6-Diesel-A4SPBD001/655250036?iid=152988353436&chn=ps&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fp%252FAirDog-Fuel-Pump-System-100gph-98-5-04-Dodge-Cummins-5-9l-I6-Diesel-A4SPBD001%252F655250036%253Fiid%253D152988353436%2526chn%253Dps%26itemid%3D152988353436%26targetid%3D414287821897%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9030408%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D1057489367%26adgroupid%3D54502292840%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-414287821897%26abcId%3D1133856%26merchantid%3D118860561%26gclid%3DCj0KCQjw6pLZBRCxARIsALaaY9ba2uz7IL-Lbt58p13NyVKzcgYZmb6j-zO2-4cL7k0Kv9JGzaOfGtAaAtt3EALw_wcB%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1567421422042%26rvr_ts%3D09b82cc01640aa6626f78052fff7eb9b Extra cost will be offset with better fuel milage since air is separated from fuel. I change my fuel filters using Fleetgaurd filters once a year in the fall. Both fuel filters together are half the price of OEM Chrysler filter and last much longer not to mention filter much better than the OEM Chrysler thus making injection pump and injectors last much longer with cleaner air free fuel.
  9. Possibly would need the Relay Mod to run Fass DDRP pump since it looks like it plugs into the factory harness.
  10. I don't have any complaints with the Airdog 100 with .50" fuel lines on my 2001. I hold 15psi at WOT pulls. I don't plan on extreme fuel mods on mine so I went with the 100. If you plan on fueling mods down the line you may consider a higher flow Airdog. You can't go wrong whether you go with Airdog or Fass. I believe they all come with wiring harnesses so they don't pull main power supply from the ECM.
  11. You can go to any truck dealer like Cummins, International, Peterbilt, etc... for those seals. Maybe even try a local independent shop. They are very common seals and are very cheap. Shipping the seals will likely cost more than the seals. I know most head gasket sets come with them also whether it's genuine Cummins or cheap Fel-pro. I got a tool box drawer full of stuff like this but as I said shipping out weighs the cost of seals. As for hard start I would do as others suggested. Disconnect lift pump to see if pressure is too high during crank. If still no start I would loosen at least 3 injector lines at injectors and crank to verify VP fuel output. If there is little to no fuel from the VP I would suspect failing VP pump. I had a VE 12 valve a couple of months back that started great cold but nothing when warm. Had no fuel output when warm. After I put a Cummins Recon VE pump on it started first crank no matter what temperature the engine was.
  12. 04Mach1

    Need help

    I would stay away from Ford especially if you go diesel. Power Strokes are nothing but problems from the 6.0 all the way to the current 6.7. At least with Ford you could look at the emblem and say they circled the problem for you when it breaks down.
  13. 04Mach1

    cp3 issue?

    The 07 5.9 I just built cost about $8500 for machine work, parts, and labor. The only parts reused we're block, crank, and external engine parts. All new parts were genuine Cummins. I'm the same way as far as owning a common rail. I'm perfectly happy with my p-pump 12v and my VP44 24v. I have to say common rail engines are making me a decent living as a mechanic.
  14. 04Mach1

    cp3 issue?

    I've seen a lot of 3rd gen 5.9 and 6.7 with warped exhaust manifolds causing the metal gaskets to act like a reed on a clarinet with the hot exhaust passing through them. Boost leaks cause squealing sounds also. As far as knocking noise at lower rpm. As others suggested check injector feed lines. I've also seen injector cross over tubes loose and leak internally causing fuel knock. Failing injectors can be causing knocking sounds. ISB Common Rail injectors seem to mechanically bite the dust right around 100k miles and cause the low power / rpm along with very noticeable knocking sounds. I replace them all the time in the shop I work at. I've seen very few common rail injectors fail electronically or even set faults in the ECM. Lastly how many miles has it been since the overhead was properly set. Tight valves can cause abnormal noise and loss of power. Valve lash sets to .010 on intake and either .020 or .026 on exhaust on a cold engine depending on year. The Cummins engine data plate will tell you what the correct valve lash is for your engine. The picture is an amplified common rail DD15 injector that mechanically failed and caused engine run away from fuel pooling in the EGR cooler. There was not one fault related to injectors active or stored in the ECM. A full engine rebuild and $35,000 later the DD15 was running cherry again.