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    Kansas City, MO

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  1. I have read the Caterpillar, University of (Indiana?) and Air Dog, etc. documents about entrained air in diesel fuel affecting power and retarding injection events. Does anyone know if that significantly affects MPG and EGT in our trucks, specifically? It sure seems like my EGT is higher than most (700-800F), my MPG is around 17.5-18 (hand calc) even at 65 MPH in average weather/wind conditions running empty. When I give the fuel a super dose of PDS gray stuff to increase cetane in an effort to advance the ignition, everything improves - but PDS gray isn't free, even if it isn't expensive. I ran Rotella T6 almost 10k miles and had an oil analysis done to check for fuel dilution, coolant, etc. It came back with a good bill of health, including TBN. Before I found this site I had purchased a FASS DRP pump and relocation kit which I have not yet installed, so am still running Carter on the block. I have clean fuel filter, pressure usually in the 8-12 PSI range measured at the VP44 (Vulcan big line from filter to IP), but does drop to around 6 PSI on long grades when I baby it to stay in overdrive (automatic) - with EGT climbing to 1100F . Should I really be looking at putting in an expensive Air Dog, and sell the FASS? The fuel lines from the tank to pump are stock, truck has 300k miles. Should I upsize those and change all gaskets, etc., on the suction side ensure I'm not sucking in air? I do not know the health of the in-tank screen or if it's still there. Symptoms are the same regardless of fuel tank level. Any advice appreciated, even to forget about it because it's normal.
  2. I can think of no persuasive reason to use a 4/0 or even 2/0 ground "crossover cable" to the other battery when you already have 1/0 grounds to the engine block from each battery. The 4-gauge crossover wire will eliminate the voltage drops at each of those connections at the block, better ensuring you have the same voltage at each battery. Sizing it the same as your alternator (4 gauge) wire seems a good rule of thumb. The largest current draw by far is the starter, which grounds through the block - that is why each battery gets a large ground connected to it. If you were to attempt grounding the engine to only one battery directly, then a large (1/0, for example) crossover wire to the other battery would certainly be recommended/required. In that case the ground wire from the engine to the one battery should (probably) be upgraded to 2/0. That said, if you want to spend the time and money to run 3" pipe to your ice maker, yes, it will reduce losses. Mopar1973Man's recommendation to put some engine oil on the cable connections to keep them in great shape will net far greater returns.
  3. I had strongly considered one of those with the green hose. I'm still on the fence as to whether I should change my oil pan due to damage, and the new pans have an 18mm drain vs. the 22mm we all know and love. Until I finally make up my mind on the matter, I won't be buying a drain. I'm also not sure I can justify the $50 cost when I only change the oil a couple of times per year!
  4. I have read the FSM for changing out the center bearing on my 2-piece driveshaft, and looked in the Parts List in the Articles section (which is for 2001/2002). Part # listed is: 04773014. When I go to Rock Auto that part number isn't listed for 2001 models, just 2002 models. For both years, they list options with two different diameters (even when I've selected Diesel and Auto, etc.) 1.5748" and 1.3780". Is there a good way to determine which I need without removing the clamp for the rubber boot and putting calipers on the shaft? EDIT: The difference is in the Wheelbase. If you have a 138" wheelbase (Quadcab, shortbed), you get the 1.3780" bearing. If you have 154" wheelbase (Quadcab, longbed) you get the 1.5748" bearing. Of course neither RockAuto nor other parts retailers care to mention that difference - THANK YOU @Mopar1973Man and your staff for compiling and sharing the parts lists, etc., to aid the rest of the community.
  5. There's certainly good information in that thread, but still no photos of where you all mounted your ballasts, the brain box, etc. I'll figure it out one of these sunny, crisp autumn Saturdays, I hope. And I'll post pics ;)
  6. I have no idea, but thanks for sharing their name! I'd never heard of them.
  7. Last week I bought a HID kit; couldn't justify the full projector upgrade at this time. Saturday I popped the hood to plan my installation and can't figure out which is the least evil of the few mounting options I see available. I like the idea in Me78569's article to mount the brain on the passenger side, but still could use some advice on where to mount everything. I do not wish to reinvent a wheel and learn lessons the hard way if I can learn from someone else's experience! Could one of you with such a system take some photos of how you mounted the brain box, ballasts, etc. and post them here? Or send a link to a previous thread. I did a search but may have missed something. Many thanks!
  8. Good day, Me78569 I picked up a Morimoto HID kit this week and when I opened the hood this afternoon to plan my install, I couldn't find a good spot to mount everything within reach. The control box I have considered attaching to the battery tray. Have the ballasts held up being close to the radiator heat? Do you have recommendation on what route to take with the wiring to the other side? I like the idea of putting the controller on the passenger side, as you mentioned. Any assistance or photos would be much appreciated! Since this article is nearly 4 years old I would assume you have worked out any problems by now. Thanks in advance, Loren
  9. Mike, there are a bunch of options on that page. I saw your review says 35W ballast, but it looks like there are 3 options just for those! Then, was there a "shroud" you had to choose for an additional $45? Too many options!
  10. Wow, that is a wide swing. OBDLink says mine closes between 190 and 195.
  11. I've put ~25,000 miles on my Stant XACTstat 49212. I wanted to try a 200 degree thermostat so bought one for a later-model Ram. $14 on Amazon. Considering my truck is an automatic, it may have been a poor choice for someone who tows heavy (transmission is cooled by the engine coolant). I run fairly light. If I was to hook onto a man-sized load, I'd swap the thermostat to a 180 just to help cool the transmission more. The XACTstat I have DOES have a wide swing, noticable on the gauge and with my OBDLink I can see it goes to nearly 210 sometimes - but not all the time, and conveniently, not when it's hot outside! It goes to maybe 206 when it's hot out before it cycles open again. These observations are from several hundred mile trips running to Oklahoma or Minnesota from Kansas City in all types of weather.
  12. I know the grease gun hose is looked upon as being a poor choice, but a 2' long hose full of air, with the orifice "snubber" has protected my EV2 for over 20k miles. Most homes deal with real water hammer with copper pipe stubs - not much flex in that, either.
  13. Very good article! On my phone, the photos are gone. Any chance they can be reincorporated? May help my understanding of the material.
  14. Thanks, Dripley. I hope it's not a crossover tube, I changed all the o-rings this winter when I changed the injectors. Glad no one so far has said "your VP44 is about to die"!
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