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Doubletrouble

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Doubletrouble last won the day on June 6

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    N.W. Ohio

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  1. So it does help with cab noise? And worth the effort and expense? I ask because I've never used it. Never been one to have a booming stereo like that. I'd like to add that stuff inside once I get the rockers and floors free of the rust gremlins. Then the sound deadening and carpet.
  2. Just for future reference, it's called dynamat. Not sure if that's the company that makes it or what. I was planning on doing the same thing to mine. I'd like to add carpet as well. Mine is a basic truck, no frills.
  3. Yep, that's the one I have. Expensive little bugger. Before I buy a new one I want to test the thermocouple.
  4. I want to say it's a suburban? I'll have to look again. It's the old style, no electronic ignition.
  5. We have an '89 jayco with a 5 gal. Hot water heater. The pilot light won't stay on after lighting, holding the button a couple minutes. It will just go out. I replaced the pilot light burner and thermocouple a year ago when the problem started and haven't had any luck with it. Didn't camp much last year so didnt worry about it (thanks covid). But now we have a couple trips planned and would like it to work. The electric part of the heater works but I prefer gas as it recovers faster.
  6. I haven't heard to much about the ecodiesels. My dad was interested in them and asked me about them but just haven't heard much. I don't know anyone that has one either.
  7. Great write up Mike. All good information, a diesel engine creates a lot of heat when working even if just driving an empty truck. Add a load or loaded trailer or camper and the heat builds from there. The radiators are big for a reason. One question, if one buys a used 2nd Gen Cummins truck (or any Gen for that matter) and finds corrosion in the cooling system when flushing such as light rust on the surfaces in the block. Is there a way to remove it? A chemical maybe that would clean that up without damaging anything else? I ask because I feel a clean metal surface would transfer heat better than a rusty one and once the surface rust is gone there is less chance of any small particals moving through and plugging things up or taking out the seals of the water pump.
  8. I'm guessing the last 2 images are grade cards of sorts from Google? Looks like we have good grades. I don't know much of anything on that end I admit. All I can say is GREAT JOB MIKE! Like most of us here, I appreciate your time and efforts making this site better. It's a great site with a courteous membership. Lots of good people on here and good accurate information. I thank you Mike and all of the members for making it what it is!
  9. Same here! Love seeing old Iron given new life and to repower with a Cummins is just cool!
  10. They are running some pretty thin oils lately. Seems to me that once it is to thin there is a point to where it would no longer do what it's supposed to. I guess with the thin oil, a higher volume oil pump and good pressure you still get the flowing fluid layer you need to lubricate bearings? Myself, I'll stick with 15/40 but mine is an '01.
  11. I have to ask, how difficult is it to get the head back in place and drop it down on the studs? Doesn't look like one would have much room with all the studs sticking up from the block. Mainly in the rear cowl area.
  12. Curious, I'll be watching to see what you find. Also, TIPM?
  13. I agree, if you can give the pump a break. I like Mike's idea of timers and switching between the 2 hoses to take away some of the demand.
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