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That Guy

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That Guy last won the day on October 22 2020

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    Bossier City, LA & Chattanooga, TN

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  1. Im unsure about the Xantrax, but probably not. Lead acid and NiCd/NiMh can charge with constant current. They will just dissipate the overcharge as heat. That's why you can leave them on charge. Its not the most effective way, but it works. Lead acid can also be charged at constant voltage if they haven't been completely drained. Lithium likes to charge up to ~60% at a constant current and then constant voltage from 60-100. People are used to experiencing phones and laptops with lithium and that has sort of given it a bad rap. People dont charge them properly and they ar
  2. Used to sell marine equipment. The lithium is the way to go if you find yourself running out of power or have the money to not worry about upfront costs and can afford to get the price/watthour/age benefit. A properly cycled and maintained lithium battery will last indefinitely. Keep them 20-75% SOC and it will likely outlast you. Do full 0-100% cycles and you will get 3000 cycles or so, or 8-9 years doing a full cycle daily. 80% of a "cycle" is between ~80-100% SOC, the other ~20% is from 0-20%. 20-80 effectively accounts for about 0.1% of a cycle. Guys with lithium o
  3. I have a tendency to keep things forever, my truck is the one thing I actually laughed at someone who wanted to buy it from me.
  4. I'm curious of your mileage. When I opened the vgt all the way (zero boost effectively) I would get in the low/mid 20's on my 12v at low interstate speeds with no smoke. 18-20 was best before that.
  5. Ditto. Made no sense to me either. Could have saved a penny or more per truck, surprising the difference that makes. I think 13 cents is what saved the LH platform. (intrepids and such) I don't see why you can't just undo all the top bolts/screws and just roll the dash back on its pivots. Is more room needed than that allows? Dash is honestly not hard to remove once the seats are out which takes all of 15 minutes, unbolting the center console helps significantly. I made all of my extra wiring so it will be disconnectable at near the factory collections for
  6. The thing I hate most about the ones sold in stores is that they supply them with vampire clamps and have no intention of keeping water out so after 5 years the whole thing is corroded to hell.
  7. The pickup was some auto store unit. He said it was more open on the sides than the factory one. I also suspect it has the corrugated tube may be cracked. If I think through the whole thing in my head, he probably got it back bled and running and then drove up/down a hill and caused it to pull more air that it wasn't pulling. At this point, I've convinced him to check the in tank unit. My personal preference is to pick up the side of the bed and his is to drop the tank. Said he wants to wait until the ground isn't frozen.
  8. Replaced whole in tank unit. No pump was in the tank, still had the old unit sitting in the bed, just the 2 wires going to the fuel level sender. I checked it out and am not sure why he replaced it. Has factory style electric pump mounted under the factory fuel filter assembly. I'll check the screen next time I see him, hopefully not on the side of the road again.
  9. I feel special today for having a reason to post in the 24V section, but I digress. Friend bought a 01 2500 2wd auto and it has about 310k on it. The injection pump and injectors had been replaced just before they bought it. $3000 and had a "bottom end knock" which turned out to be a cracked flex plate. So, the fuel pump went out on him and he replaced the in tank unit and the block mounted pump. Ran fine for several days and then it stutters and dies. He bleeds up to the injection pump and it fires off. Makes it about 3 blocks and does the same. Won't fire back up. (H
  10. I keep all of my waste oil for various uses. Use it for keeping wood from rotting or rust protection or even mosquito control and starting fires. The entire underside of my truck beads water, but a lot of that was before my time and several oil leaks. At least there is no rust.
  11. Breaking it down, U = Chip quality/grade A = Automotive temperature range U = Chip format, in this case, Umax size, 3x3mm with 8 or 10 leads B = Lead count, 10 or 64 (+) = lead free (/V) = automotive qualified quality control T = furnished as a tape reel for pick and place machines The 9924 only comes in the Umax format you used. If you go back to the data sheet, you can see the variations on the chip in the first page. The chip suffixes can be decoded on maxims website here. https://www.maximintegrated.c
  12. The easiest way to solder surface mount is with a hot air base station and a pair of ceramic tip tweezers. Barring that, the tiniest tip on a traditional iron make work. I'm not sure how much luck you'll have sourcing a non surface mount version. You are far from the first to struggle with this particular chip.
  13. How exactly are you trying to solder them? How are you breaking the pins on surface mount stuff?
  14. I wish them the best of luck with their endeavors.
  15. Of course you can post that picture to your instagram.... Once.
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