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Posts posted by MikeH

  1. Just bought a set of Timken front bearing assembly for a 2002 Ram (2WD). It's looking like 280 ft lbs of torque for the axle nut but I'm reading other specs anywhere from 180 lbs to over 300. Even the Timken web page says 280 but always to use the manufacture's specs (whatever that is?). 

    So what the hell is it? I know they're damn tight but does anyone know the actual spec. Also, I take it with this type of sealed unit the torque is set and no backing off a quarter turn or something? Again this is a 2WD not 4WD


  2. I just had the same problem with the 90 deg elbow disintegrating at the vacuum pump. The other 90 deg up by the firewall didn't look so hot either. After looking over the whole system I just bought a few feet of air line from Auto Zone and did away with both elbows and a few blocked off connectors (not sure what they were for). Didn't cost me but a few bucks and twenty minutes of line plumbing time.

  3. Sort of thought something like that was going on. Couldn't quite figure out what I had done to get the correct odometer reading after installing both computers. I take it that a scan with the correct reader would still show I'm using an ECM with the wrong VIN#? And if that's so a re-flash of the donor ECM would correct the issue...right. Do I need to worry about any of this? I plan on keeping the rig so don't really care what the info ECM is holding. The only problem I can see is during emissions testing the donor VIN would pop up...right.

    As the donor ECM/PCM were purchased for emergency use only (I've decided to keep the OEM computers on the rig until one fails) I can address a re-flash when the time comes. 

  4. Still wondering what stores the odometer reading? Is it the ECM, the PCM or a collaboration of both? My rig showed the correct odometer reading after the install but I did put on the donor PCM with my OEM ECM first. Don't know if that mattered but I got the correct reading after installing both units and driving for ~30 minutes. 

    Anyone know for sure which computer actually stores and keeps track of the odometer?

  5. Good news! Hooked up the PCM which worked fine. Didn't think it would be a problem. Then hooked up the ECM. Before starting anything I drained the ECM to ground to clear out any codes or memory. I've used this tactic before to turn off a pesky engine light or codes. It drains all the capacitors of energy so the ECM will have to learn your engine & APPS settings after it starts. Anyway, started the truck and drove around for 30 minutes or so and all's well. I was holding my breath on the ECM but it turned out OK. I think the trick is to find a donor rig that is absolutely identical to yours (make, model, year, engine, tranny...everything). After grounding out the ECM (google...lots of info) it should learn your truck config and be good to go. 

  6. " VIN problems when mixing them"

    Not sure what you mean by "mixing them". The donor rig was identical to mine (2002 Ram/Cummins 2500 HO w/six speed tran). But...this is my first shot at this too which is the reason for my post. I'm hoping it's a straight swap and the ECM doesn't need a re-flash etc.

  7. Just purchased a used ECM + PCM for my pickup. We travel a lot (including Mexico) and I want to keep a few critical spare parts on hand just in case. The donor rig was a perfect match (2002 Dodge Cummins HO six speed) for my truck and the price was right so I jumped on it. I'm assuming the ECM especially does not need to be re-flashed or anything and will be a plug and play item. Both computers are OEM off a totaled rig (121K miles....front end smashed but engine compartment looked fine). Guess I'm taking a little bit of a chance on this purchase but both computers looked great and the truck was running (obviously) at the time so they worked right up to the accident. 

    Anything special I need to know about replacing the computers? I'm planning on pulling both of mine (they work fine) and keep them as my spares. I'll run these replacements until one fails. 


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