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rancherman

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rancherman last won the day on February 28 2015

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About rancherman

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    nebraska
  1. ok. now please try to explain how Sir Bernoulli's Principle works in a dead end line. this should be interesting. Wizards hat? cripes, the man has been dead for 200 years. I think it's not the secret you think it is. And yes, as a matter of fact, this DOES seem very damn familiar. As far as pressure (head loss) loss due to frictional forces. Diameter is most certainly a factor. Not as much as I originally thought however. hf = f (L/D) x (v^2/2g) where: hf = head loss (m) f = friction factor L = length of pipe work (m) d = inner diameter of pipe work (m) v = velocity of fluid (m/s) g = acceleration due to gravity (m/s²) If diameter was not a factor, it wouldn't be included in this formula. true, any FLOW immediately in the THROAT area is by definition reduced in pressure. That's a given. But every example of Bernoulli's Principle shows the pressure goes right back up downstream of the throat area Gauges are most definitely 'downstream' of this area.
  2. just to clarify, can you post a pic of this 'Bernoulli's device' and how you have it installed?
  3. VW TDi.. need an education!

    Thanks, and I've already been warned that the beetle's engine wiring harness is a total 'one-off' bastard... and to avoid it at all costs! LOL OH, hell, Bill.... you know me: I get wild ideas about swapping crap into stuff that doesn't belong, I get too fired up about building 'one-off' creations.. In this case the lil 1.9 tdi in my Toyota.. is really no way a 'one off' , it's been done fairly often now, with fairly good results. I've found adapters, brackets, mounts, to make it almost a bolt in deal.. found various reflashers, for the ecu part.. pretty good diagrams for the wiring part, cooling seems to be adequate with the oem toyo radiator.. Most swappers seem pretty happy with the 150 HP level, putting a little larger tire on help with the gearing. NO (zero) aftermarket gearing lower than 4.11's! larger tires is the only way with the married 4x4 transfer case. Then there are the guys who really want to stretch what 1.9 liters can make.. upwards to 300.. insane. For me, 150 will suffice! I could have an all mechanical one shipped to me from Canada.. or for about half the price find an ALH locally for about 12-1400.. Then would need to get the Ecu, and harness. Tack on about 4-500 for that! I've also learned the ALH's tend to be a little better in the 'sealing' dept.. both oil and coolant.
  4. Friction boys...FRICTION, (Mike called it 'snubbing') is what 'dampens'. Small lines have a lot more friction than larger ones. PLUS, the smaller lines have far less inertia that larger lines. I should say the fluid within the line has less inertia.. both from it's mass, and the friction factor.
  5. VW TDi.. need an education!

    This is what I've learned so far; The all mechanical version, (AAZ) wasn't sold here in US. Basically everywhere BUT here. 1992-1998 was the 'semi' computer controlled AHU, OR 1Z designation... offered here in the States. I believe the 99's and up were designated 'ALH's' and fully computerized. Possible all aluminum? I believe the first two versions are Iron block, aluminum head. Feel free to correct, add, or slap my hand!
  6. VW TDi.. need an education!

    I know there is a few guys in here that have run the 1.9 Tdi. I need a quick low-down on what's-what. TDi for 'dummies' if you will Please explain the differences in what I'm seeing; ALH, BEW, AAZ.. American side, Canadian side configurations... etc etc. all of these run egr? Mechanical versions.. and computer managed.. years made.. Immobilization enabled versions... I suppose those were built from the low 2000's onward, Probably the exact versions to stay away from in a 'swap' scenario.. I've seen some 'tuned' to around 150 hp, and still reliable. Your thoughts?
  7. changing email provider ??

    short version... I am bailing on my hughes.net email address. Have my new gmail all set up, and have imported mail from the hughes.net. That part seems to work fine. I can't seem to get the export of either 'all email contacts'..(history) which is only 201 separate addresses, or our official contact list of about 30. gmail 'help' seems to think the csv file transfer should work, but I can't seem to 'grab' those particular lists to add to a csv file. I went into hughes.net customer service 'help'.. and most info there was basically from the gmail help site! Even using 'that' help didn't get me too far on creating a file from the hughes contact/address list. I'd like to send a batch email to all my contacts stating a new address, and I'm told that I can leave a sig on all remaining sent emails from hughes of my impending change. Plus I'm also told I should be able to have a 'non reply' message that returns mail with a message (used mainly for 'on-vacation' alerts) stating of new address to reply to. Hughes says they keep the account open for 45 days after service termination. manually typing in the 30 or so contacts wouldn't be too difficult, but those 200 or so might be a lot easier if there was a tool to do so! any thoughts? Thanks!
  8. First Time Death Wobble

    What method did you use to 'measure'?? I take a couple lengths of angle iron, and a couple of zip ties to hold it snuggly against the tire. just slightly below axle CL. ( lower if the body gets in the way) but away from the bulge on the lower part of the tire. These angles stick out about a foot in front and behind the tire. That gives me a nice way to 'hook' the tape measure.. I shoot for a little toe in.. about 1/16- 1/8th. Oh, btw, this is with the full weight on the axle too.
  9. Gotcha! So this thermal protector in inside the motor? I have a feeling it's going to be multiple issues.. LOL, the drivers side will probably be a worn/burnt motor, and the passenger side is feeling the effects of a bad connection coming from the recent switch replacement.. (sonny might have missed a plug connector device)
  10. Longer cranking...

    3 days ago, I was wishing I had my video camera with me; I was removing water from a ditch with a small semi trash pump. Basically just pumping it over the road to the other ditch. There was about 3 hours of pumping, my little pump pumps just a tick over 9000 gallons per hour. 2 inch lines, in and out. Depth of water was about 2 feet, at the start. Keeping the suction side out of the nasty mud was a handful for me, I had to keep my hands on it the whole time. Point here is; I was amazed at how hard it was to keep it from 'WHIRLPOOLING'.. Even the tiniest miniature 'tornado'.. and I could hear the little Honda engine load get significantly easier. .... easier load= less gallons per minute, efficiency went south. I tried vertical, horizontal positions with the suction tube. various depths too. Invariably, it always started a tiny white tornado... injecting a tiny amount of air into the line. Lightbulb went off, how is our systems, especially the HP pump models, with a draw straw, any different than this?? I even cut off the end of my suction hose at an angle to see if it would help with the vortex effect.. It only delayed it from forming, eventually the vortex got just as bad as the uncut version. now, keeping my hose as deep as possible was the only way to MINIMIZE the whirlpool, it never eliminated it. These tanks are extremely shallow.. LONG, but shallow! Cut that depth in half... and I can see how easy a whirlpool can start! I truly think that original sock on the end is more for breaking up this effect, more than being a pre-filter! (but I'll concede that OEM pumps are far less GPM than what we are pumping!!!) My thoughts here are; find some sort of diffuser on your draw tube... say a larger outer sheath with multiple holes cut into it... and/or never let the tank get more than half empty. Fuel conditioners, mainly the flow 'winterizers'.. or 'cleaners'... with benzenes, alcohol,, I'm sure I'm missing half a dozen, LOL, are what's eventually hard on the buna-n products. Just out of curiosity, how long did it take for the original ball, to start forcing you to crank longer? I realize it took you some time to discover the grooved ball.. I'm wondering if FASS went with a larger ball to get a more 'flatter, larger radii ball.. which wouldn't cut into the sealing area as aggressively. ( can you see if the sealing part, or 'margin' if you will, has been properly machined?) Can you tell if it was the spring, or the sealing lip that was making the groove?? First thoughts would be to replace with a steel ball! but I'm sure that ball's inertia would pound out it's environment in short order!
  11. Longer cranking...

    Inertia within the pipe will cause 'hammering' just ask anyone who has put an un dampened FP gauge. You are supplying via a half inch tube, the inertia within that large area is just like a tsunami wave. When it gets to the ball or even before with fittings, smaller lines, etc..., the area decreases, which means the speed increases...but the weight or inertia of the large 'heavy' draw straw supply is still pushing.. creating 'shock waves' if you will.. not far from a ram-jet type situation. and that little ball is getting a workout. (I'd bet it's BUZZING quite wildly) Not to mention any impulse waves created by the rotor itself, which may or may not traverse backward. I didn't read back on what pump you have, but in a 150 or 200 gallon per hour system, the speed within that circuit has to be fairly fast.. As far as the 'Viton, verses Buna N, both are diesel 'resistant'.. it's the additives that we put in our fuel that is a little 'hard' on Buna N stuff.. Why yours and not about 1000 other guys who have the same setup? Bad luck with poor quality balls 2x in a row... sure sure, could happen I suppose. I'd suspect an air leak first.. which the system is taking care of, and sending back to tank. even the most minute amount of air on the suction side of any pump make things quite violent. (hydraulically speaking)
  12. Most of the summer, the only way to get the drivers side to work was to 'thump' the inside door panel, just below the switches... whilst holding the switch. Made for some pretty erratic driving to say the least.. sonny tried a new switch, but that didn't work either, same action was needed to make it work. Now the passenger side no longer works, but it worked fine until yesterday. Is that metal 'fuse' in the side dash a fuse, circuit breaker, or relay? It's the same that runs the power seats.. but swapping them made no difference.. seat works fine with either. So, what's the order of events here? Find out if there is 12v to the switch... and follow that path?
  13. 1999 Ram 1500 - Engine Swap

    looks like a 1996 up to 2001. earlier one's would still be a bolt in deal, but the sensors are different for the OBD 1 and OBD 11
  14. HX35/40 Turbo rebuild kits

    Im late to this party.. but for launching a 'load'.. sounds like lvl. 3 might be actually where you want! 'holding' speed running through the hills is where I'm interested. BTW, our 2000 with the HO pump is pulling so much better, rarely needs 4th gear with our hills and loads. the last replacement pump barely was able to get OUT OF 4TH!! I'D be scared to let my son see this thread; he has burned off those dual tires pretty quick this summer!! ;)
  15. First Time Death Wobble

    I'd start with the very basics here! you just said almost everything has been fairly recently replaced... I'd suspect something has come loose first! Somebody forgot a cotter pin, or didn't get it torqued properly in the first place. Try to get a new stabilizer in there too. crawl under there and have someone rock the steering side to side and you look for slop, or up and down motion where side-to-side is the only direction needed.. about half a turn is all you'll need.. engine off so you may hear clicking too.
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