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  1. I set about searching the internet and looked at 20+ videos and 40+ threads that all seemed to be somewhat incomplete and decided to write an article based on my experience. My original nightmare dealer experience thread: https://mopar1973man.com/topic/11382-front-crank-seal-help-and-show-and-tell-of-what-the-dealer-did/ Tools Required 1. LocTite 620 ($12) http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-234772-Temperature-Retaining-Compound/dp/B003T7UXUI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460479397&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+620 2. Astro Bearing Race and Seal Driver ($40) http://www.amazon.com/Astro-7824-Bearing-Driver-Master/dp/B00061SGFO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 3. 1 Ton Press ($59.99 - 20% coupon) http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html 4. Three M8 x1.25 120mm Long Bolts ($4 each). Lowes carries them. These will be used to align the timing cover and slide it home so you don't make a sloppy mess. I also found a pack of 10 on amazon for $6.45 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A30JI7I/ref=biss_dp_t_asn 5. Razor blade scraper to remove old seal from gear housing http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Tools-13050-Scraper-Blades/dp/B000BPEPSC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1460569550&sr=8-4 6. Sand paper (220 fine grit) to remove old seal bits from gear housing 7. Acetone to clean up gear housing 8. Piece of 2x4 or wood to bang on so you don't mess up the crank sleeve Optional Tools: Electric Torque Adapter ($56). All shops should have these IMO. Makes life easy. http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-3-8-Inch-Measurement-Adapter/dp/B004VYUKTC/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1460478588&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=acdelco+electronic+torque&psc=1 Barring Tool ($34) http://www.genosgarage.com/product/tool-ltbt/tools Important Note About Tools: Do yourself a favor and just buy the 1 ton press and seal driver set. It is a lot cheaper than messing up a seal. From the thread above, most people usually mess up at least one seal. Parts Required 1. RTV Ultra Black. Get the pressurized one like this. Makes it so easy. http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/rtv-adhesive/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/491386_0_0/ 2. Cummins factory seal kit with sleeve ($50 to $124 depending on where you get it): 3802820 Parts Note: 3802820 Cummins Seal Kit can be had on ebay for for as little as $50 shipped. You cannot buy them from the dealer. Random Notes 1. Cummins installation tool sets the depth form the REAR of the timing cover 2. Everything is a 10mm except the crank pully is a 15mm Torque Specs Crank Pully/Balancer: 92ft/lbs Fan Support Bracket: 18ft/lbs Timing Cover Bolts: 18ft/lbs Tear-Down Procedures 1. Remove the 4 nuts on top of the radiator to get positive battery cable out of the way 2. Remove the oil catch can on the bottom of the timing cover (just a 10mm nut that holds it on) 3. Disconnect gear case breather tube 4. Remove the upper radiator hose. You will lose a little coolant... just a little bit, but it makes the job SOOOO much easier. 5. Remove the coolant overflow bottle. There is a little "button" at about the middle of the back of the white plastic can that pops into a slot on the fan shroud. Push that button in w/ something hard then pull up on the coolant overflow bottle. Remove the little hose from the radiator to the coolant overflow bottle. 6. Remove the windshield wiper reservoir. It is annoying to fight for space. Easy to remove. First pull up on it to remove it from the fan shroud. Then disconnect two electrical connections from the bottom of the truck. The lower one is to the wiper fluid motor. You just pull and wiggle off the black connector to the fluid motor while supporting the fluid motor. I am sure you can twist and pull out the whole motor assembly, but why mess with an old O-ring. The low level connector which is slightly higher on the bottle is a standard clip you pull back and pull down on the connector. Remove the hose to the bottle. Remove the reservoir from the top. 7. Remove the accessory/serpentine belt. Put a 3/8" socket and breaker bar (or actual breaker bar) into the hole on the front of the tensioner (see image below) and rotate left relieving tension while pulling off the belt. 8. Loosen the fan shroud. There are two clips on the top of the radiator. Two bolts on each side of the radiator. Then lift up as there are two tabs the shroud sits in on the bottom of the radiator. 9. Remove the 4 bolts to the fan hub. One is blocked and you cannot remove, but you can unscrew and the fan hub will come off. I personally had to grind down a 10mm closed wrench to fit inbetween the space of the back of the fan pully and engine block. An open wrench started to strip the nut. 10. Lift the fan and fan shroud out in one piece. Thank me for removing your upper radiator hose first. 11. Remove the front crank pully/balancer (4 bolts). You may need a barring tool. Geno's Garage has them for 34 dollars as noted above. Even without a baring tool I had my neighbor attach a wrench to one of the four bolts while I loosened the other three. Then we tightened back one of the three I loosened and broke the last one. 12. Remove the timing cover bolts. Two of them are threaded studs. They simply remove just like any other bolt. To get the timing cover off I used a heat gun to loosen the ultrablack gasket in there and used a pry bra from the top of the cover to start to pop the thing off. I recommend marking on the front of the timing cover where the long bolts and studs go. It will make life easier when you are trying to re-assemble. You can't see my markings b/c I marked under the bolt in silver marker. 13. Clean the gear housing surface with a razor blade scraper, sand paper, and some acetone. Ensure it is super clean and oil free. Clean out any gunk in the bolt holes. I threaded a screw in each hole to ensure I wouldn't have any issues when it came time to install the timing cover as the dealer got the holes filled with RTV. 14. Clean and inspect the crank nose before sleeving. It must be perfectly clean and dry. Clean with acetone and grind down/buff any burs. The dealer used a seal puller and put huge gouges into my crank nose which caused high sharp burs. I ground them down with a dremel and polished them with some jewelers compound. Your gear casing should look as clean as this before you even attempt to RTV down a new one: Sleeve Install Procedure This is the sleeve. It is metal. The outside of it on both size are NOT beveled. ONE side on the INSIDE is beveled. The beveled portion goes IN TOWARDS the engine to help assist it sliding over the crank nose. I called cummins to confirm this. I did not get pictures of the next steps but here are the procedures: 1. Put LocTite 620 on the inside of the sleeve 2. Clean up the crank nose with acetone and ensure there are no sharp burs (should have been done above) 3. Put more LocTite 620 on the crank nose 4. Place the sleeve onto the crank nose with the bevel facing inward towards the engine 5. Put the wood block on the front of the sleeve and whack it a few times with a hammer. Get it on about 1/4 to 1/2 the way. It will get hard to move if not impossible. 6. THE MAGICAL STEP: Go get your crank pully/damper and the 4 15mm bolts. Put the crank pully in front of the sleeve and put in all 4 bolts as if you are trying to install the crank pully. Finger tighten all 4 bolts up to the sleeve. In a clockwise motion around the 4 bolts, turn each bolt 1 turn until the pully bottoms out on the crank nose. Boom... no tool required. No frustrated banging. No messing up the sleeve. Remove the crank pully. Seal Install Procedure This is the cummins seal install tool that comes in the sleeve kit. It is meant to set the depth from the BACK of the timing cover. To set the dept, the rounded nose portion of the cummins tool goes DOWN from the back of the timing cover. It will not hit the teflon seal. Just ride the edges. The seal press kit I mentioned above fits perfectly into the cummins install tool Again I didn't get pictures of me pressing in the seal, but this is what I found after much research and destroying one expensive seal. Both cummins-b and mopar service manuals say install the seal from the back. The seal CAN be installed from the front while the cover is on the engine, but it is a royal PITA from what I hear. Just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should. This is what the dealer did to my crank nose trying to install from the front. I found when I tried to install from the front, the cummins seal with a new timing cover was so tight that the timing cover shaved off metal from the seal. This is how I did it: 1. Put the timing cover with it's back down to my bench 2. Remove the plastic seal guide/protector 3. Put LocTite 620 on the inside of the timing cover and around the outside of the seal. DO NOT get any on the teflon seal itself. 4. Install the seal crooked from the front. I put one side about 50% of the way down through the hole in the timing cover. 5. Put the appropriately sized seal die onto the front of the seal (this is the side w/ the little arrow showing clockwise directional rotation.) Since once side of the seal is below the lip of the timing cover, the die will not slide around. 6. Use the 1 ton press to press down on the high side of the die. With a lot of squeaking and pressure it will go in. Don't try to press down directly on the seal. I tried this and wound up with a bent seal. Hence, use the die. 7. Once the high end is down into the timing cover about 4mm, flip the cover over 8. Put the die into the cummins installer tool like I have pictured above 9. Pushing again on the high side of the seal, slowly work it down into the timing cover with the press 10. Re-install plastic guide/protector from the back (teflon side) so that the wide opening of the seal is going to go onto the crank nose Eventually everything will bottom out and you will have a properly depthed seal with the cummins tool pressed on by the die/press. A note about depth, since you are sleeving your crank, it doesn't really matter as long as you are on the new sleeve. Optimally you want the new seal to be anywhere from flush with the front of the cover to 1/4 into it. ALTERNATIVE SEAL INSTALL METHOD You can go to autozone. Buy a 3" O.D./ 3" I.D. muffler coupling ($2.99) which is the perfect size for the front of the seal and use that and a piece of wood to try to pound it in. I couldn't even get mine started when I tried it and had to go out and buy a press. You can be like me and try to save money and do this method first, but you will kick yourself for damaging an expensive seal. Re-Install Procedure 1. Clean all the old seal off the timing cover with a razor blade and acetone 2. Use some fine sand paper to scuff up the surface. If it is slick the ultrablack will just slide around. Clean with acetone. 3. Apply a bead of ultrablack in the groove on the rear of the timing cover. Go fully around each bolt hole. 4. Take the M8x1.25 bolts I suggested above and use them as guides to hold and guide the timing cover in square. You can do it without, but it is a real PITA to get things aligned. With this method I didn't get RTV on a single bolt nor did I have to move the cover around at all. Picture of the location for each bolt. Obviously take them out and thread them through the cover one at a time like the next picture. 5. Slide the cover on, but don't moosh it on. Just make contact. Otherwise you will moosh seal into the bolt holes and get rtv on your bolt threads. You may have to push hard to get the seal to move over the crank nose and off the plastic guide. This is ok. 6. Per ultrablack instructions, finger tighten all the timing cover bolts. Let the cover sit for 1 hour. Torque to spec - 18ft/lbs. 7. Remove plastic protection sleeve. You don't want to do this before letting it sit for an hour b/c the cover will move back slightly when torqued and move the seal along the crank nose. You want that puppy to get on the crank nose and never move again. 8. I used my baring tool to turn over the crank (turn left so the crank goes right) twice. This allows the teflon seal to mate with absolutely zero oil in the crank case. 9. Per ultrablack, do not put the vehicle in service for 24 hours. I let the truck sit for 8 hours on a 75 degree day then let it run for 15 minutes. The ultrablack was hard before I chose to start the engine. The next day I let the truck run for 30 minutes while topping off my coolant with a bubbler. This is a good video I used to make this write-up. The kid however wants $100 to rent his tool with a $400 deposit. If you are going to spend $100, buy a press and die set like above which is less than $100. Then you will have tools you can use over and over. You don't need a tool to put the sleeve on the crank. Just use the fly wheel like I posted above.
  2. I was just getting on the highway working my way through gears and I got to shift to fifth and it won’t shift out of fourth but clutch still disengages drive. Help
  3. So I have a 99 24 valve Cummins with 7x14 injectors, bigger-ish turbo, delivery tubes, and lift pump and no tuner on it. When I shift into any gear when the truck is warm it feels like the truck either has to much load on it or tries to overcompensate and it just stalls out. The Tranny is stock. Was told it has billet converter but I’m not positive. It only does this after the truck has been running at operating temp. First start up in morning it shifts fine no issues. Any ideas???
  4. So if your running a junky edge comp or juice and want just a little more fun, this is what smoke out put you can expect with a 90hp 7x.0085 VCO injector from DAP. Clean burning and sensible injector for a well balanced rig. Pop pressure on this truck is 300bar. Truck setup: 99 model year, fass 95, edge juice (same program as comp), 4” exhaust, HX35W, garbage jasper trans, triple disc, 4.10 gear. this specific truck doesn’t have the pump tap installed due to a new VP44 installed so this is just stock, level 1/sub 1 and level 2/sub 1 for low smoke and smooth acceleration to keep traction under control. With levels 3-4-5-6 with the pump tap of course expect smoke and hard torque and acceleration. This truck is a fleet tow rig and they don’t run the pump tap because employees drive the truck and they don’t want it hotrodded but wanted a little more pull without the pump tap being installed. stock: level 1/sub 1: level 2/sub 1: Good setup for daily drivers and tow rigs. You can hit 1300-1350* on wide open runs on all levels so make sure you have a good set of gauges (not glow shi(f)t, there garbage, slow and your gonna melt a piston)... would work well with S03 users also. Levels 1-4 or if you use REVO settings (actual level is irrelevant then).
  5. Last weekend I replaced the crankshaft seal on my front cover as well as installing a wear sleeve. I followed the procedures that were on the Thoroughbred Diesel YouTube Channel. I used the wear sleeve installation tool and the crank seal installation tool. Used Permatex to seal the front cover after installation. I've started to notice fresh oil on my sway bar and steering components after driving. The bottom front bolts of the oil pan had small amounts of oil on them as well. I can't seem to tell if the leak is coming from the oil pan and that the gasket needs to be replaced or if its coming from somewhere else. The tappet cover looks good from what I can see and I retorqed the bolts to 18ft/lbs on the oil pan. Still no luck! Any thoughts or ideas on where else I should check? I cleaned everything up real good but can't seem to stop this leak. It never leaked from this spot before until after I changed the crankseal.
  6. So, I have been running my compound setup for 3 weeks now, and I am impressed on all levels. For 1500$, I have instant boost, 24 MPG, and even when I fuel it like a dragster, The highest EGT I can get is 1280*. Because of my awesome experience, I have decided to share the entire installation and give a few tips for anyone who wants to go this way. The kit I purchased is the Evilfab525 kit, here is the website link : http://www.evilfabperformance.com/shop To start this project I inventoried all of the pieces in the kit, verified the S366 T4 turbo was clean and operational, and then set out on disassembly. Problems encountered here - The factory downpipe / 5 bolt manifold had a bolt already broken off, and another one broke on me as well. Repair involved a drill press, tap and die kit, lots of lubricant, and patience. So moving on, the T3 HX35 uses 4 studs, two on manifold and two on turbine housing. Trash them! This kit requires inverting the exhaust manifold, so the HX35 will be 180* and will require restudding / drilling out threads as required. The instructions provided very good info on this, and the fabricator Riley can answer any questions quickly before you get into trouble. Also you will need to knock out the rear oil drain freeze plug, and chopsaw your HX35 drain pipe for the S366 Drain. Read the instructions on this part carefully! After you have your length of drain tube, here's a tip: you should have 2.5- 3.5 inches of straight pipe. take electrical tape and tape the end you intend to tap into the block, marking a depth of 1 - 1.25 inches. There is nothing to limit the depth, and you don't want to hammer the tube all the way into the oil pan. Also a 1" or 15/16" deep socket slides over the other end nicely and gives you a part to hammer on without damaging the tube. After getting your oil drain prepped, get the hacksaw out and cut off the exhaust pipe about 24 inches forward of the transmission cross member, this gives you room to mock everything up. I cut mine right where the 3.5" down pipe expanded to 4". Tip # 2: go buy 1 or 2, 4" exhaust clamps (if you already have a 4" system) and if you are running a magnaflow system that has a 3.5 - 4 inch downpipe, you will need about 16 inches of 4" pipe to splice to your exhaust, unless you plan a new exhaust at the same time. This is where I started mocking up the kit. Problem #1 the waste gate actuator was in the way. Remove the actuator and with great finesse and care, Grind off the mount from the compressor housing. Problem #2, The heater pipe has a mount which bolts to the exhaust manifold. This does not fit with the manifold inverted.Its also in the way of the hot pipe. You have to options: Delete the pipe and replace with rubber hose, or Cut the mounting tab off. I cut the tab off, because I was being cheap. Now its time to start assembly. I fabricated a bracket to hold the waste gate actuator from 16 gauge plate steel from home cheapo. I used a piece of thin cardboard to template the T3 Bolt pattern, and measured the distance from the flat surface of the actuator mount on the comp housing, to the gate arm. using that measurement, I utilized a Drill press, Sawzall, Bench Vice, and Ball peen hammer to make my bracket. For rigidity, I started by bending the plate 90* in half, and then started on it with the sawzall. After I got it shaped right, I used my little mig welder to put a bead in the corner for extra strength. a bolt works just fine too. you will have to notch your bracket to give clearance for the HX35 oil drain. I painted it with black header paint to look nice and put it off to the side.
  7. What's the best place to get some exhaust to make my stock 3 inch into straight pipe , or if I was going to buy a straight pipe where should I purchase
  8. As of lately my truck has become hard to start. It requires about two ten second cranks to fire but then runs great. I have checked for fuel leaks and tightness of fuel components. I installed a lift pump and new lines 9 months ago. Also the tach doesn't match the speed you are driving. At light acceleration the rpms will jump all the way to 2k and on the highway at 60 mph it usually stays around 2700 rpm. I am not sure if it would be the crank sensor since I have no codes. The hard starting just happened out of the blue a couple weeks ago. Any help would great.
  9. Ok so I put a new vp44 injection pump on the truck thinking that was the problem. But it wasn't I turned the truck over and over and wouldnt crank. I unplugged the rear plug on the pump and straight wired the pump and cranked right up. Then I checked the plug pin # 6 and 7 gets 12 volts on the on position and 10 on the starting position. Pin # 5 doesn't have any voltage so it's not that. Anyone know what or why the electronics won't work and allow the truck to crank? Thanks.
  10. So, the truck runs, but not great. I get the puff of black smoke when it first starts, but under acceleration, I start seeing big black smoke I've not seen before. the truck is stock, with the exception of an Airdog 150, and has about 340k miles. the injector are stock, and I've lost power recently. I'm not sure if the power loss is due to the injectors being worn, or the fact that my RPM will go to zero, and the pump misses, like an ECU connection issue. when the RPM gauge is working, the truck has power, when the RPM gauge goes to zero, and hard acceleration makes it almost roll coal, with no power. I'm hoping that its a bad connection at the ECU which puts the VP44 in some limp mode, the only DTC using an INNOVA 3100 scanner, was a P0341 code, which I cleared. Thanks for any help, GSX455
  11. 98.5-----5 speed. Having an issue where I'm not getting the starter to engage the flywheel. Starter will go, but will not turn over the engine. Batteries are brand new as are my cables (I'm 100% sure that my connections are all good.....now ) The story........................ This initially started out as just a "1 click, no start" when turning the key; it also threw a code. Went underneath to to check the starter cable.... I unfortunately caused an arc because the connection was loose and I'm fairly confident I made something go crispy critters in the starter. I only had one negative disconnected so I learned the hard way ; save the lecturing, all you can do is laugh. Went back to start again and now I'm at the "not engaging the flywheel" situation (truck also is NOT throwing any codes NOW). I guess I'm just curious as to what my next step should be. Is the starter more then likely toast? Anything else to check? Truck ran excellent when it was stored back in November so I can only assume I FUBAR'd the starter just now. Just want to get the truck running. Thanks fellas.
  12. SO the other day I was going home from work, it was snowing pretty bad and the roads were really slick and crappy so I popped the ole girl in 4x4 just for added reassurance. On my commute I have a nice 90* turn that is completely blind till about half way through the turn. Well I get to that half way part, and this grey toyota carolla was spinning and fishtailing all over the place out of control, SO I did what any reasonable 23 year old in a big 4x4 cummins would do and drove right into the front yard of some guy who lives on that corner, I drove in, drove out and kept on my way. Ran over a few rocks and such but all was good, So I thoight. I got about another 1/2 mile up the road when "crunch" "snap" "bang" happen. Not sure what was going on so I popped er out of 4 by go and all was good again. Got home and in the parkling lot of our apartment I put it back in 4 by. Drove a little and when I started to slow down there was the noises again. I checked my u-joints they are all good. I believe something inside under that diff cover is broken, loose, falling apart ect. SO any ideas what it could be? I have not had a chance to pull the cover yet. And with the snow just a coming non-stop the past few days I would really enjoy having 4x4 again lol Thanks
  13. Well it has come time to rebuild my transmission. Ive recently replaced the governor solenoid and sensor, adjusted bands and replaced filter and fluids. Well now it is not down shifting. The forward band is worn beyond use, and I'm sure that with the shifting issues I've experienced over the last two year that the rest of the internal works are worn just as bad. Ive adjusted bands, changed fluid and filter, adjuster TV cable, replaced solenoid and sensor, and still no improvement. So it is just worn out, closing in on 200,000 miles with a stock tranny, I can't complain. :lol:So I'm doing the Sun Coast M3GA 3 Alto Transmission Kit, Sun COast Triple Disc Torque Converter, Sun Coast Billet FLex Plate/Fly Wheel, ARP Fly Wheel bolt upgrade, Sun Coast's governor solenoid upgrade it with housing, and Mag-Hytec 727 D Deep Dish Pan. What else should I change while in there? The rebuild kit from Sun Coast comes with every thing internal including shift kit for the valve body. But are there other parts I should do while Ive got the tranny on the bench, either to the truck or transmission. I am gonna replace the TV cable also as it is fraying up at the throttle connection. Thank guys.
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