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B H A F BIG HONKING AIR FILTER This is a short list of BHAF that can be used on the Cummins 5.9L diesel. Some of the BHAF are the same size and will be listed together. L= length, OD= outside diameter, ID= inside connection diameter, BHAF: NAPA FIL 2790, WIX 42790, Fleetguard AH19037, Hastings Af1012, and Baldwin PA2820 L 11.88” OD 10.50” ID 4.0” Pre filter for above BHAF FILTERWEARS F105K BHAF: Napa FIL 6637, WIX 46637, Fleetguard AH1141, Hastings AF2329, Donaldson ECB085011, Baldwin PA2818 and Cummins 3912020 L 12.38” OD 8.50” ID 4.0” Pre filter for above BHAF FILTERWEARS K104k Donaldson B105006 L 10.50” OD 10.50” ID 4.0” Surface area 12.38"h x 8.5"d = 330.59 in² 10.50"h x 10.5"d = 346.35 in² ~ 04% larger than #1 11.88"h x 10.5"d = 391.87 in² ~ 18% larger than #1 ~ 13% larger than #2 Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: ibmobile 3/10/2018
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There are several different kits and filters available for assisting Cummins Turbo Diesels to breathe more efficiently. The following are some of my personal findings when considering and using BHAF’s (Big Honkin' Air Filter). Firstly, there are air filters on the market that are washable and re-useable. These air filters also claim to prolong the life of the air filter and save money. I have found this claim to be invalid. When a air filter is washed it puts unneeded wear on the media and eventually creates holes in it. These holes in turn allow the passage of dirt. Another issue of washable air filters is they need re-oiled once washed. Most people over oil these air filters, which causes the turbo to pull oil onto the compressor wheel. Once the turbo wheel gets dirty it can cause damage to the turbo. Here is typical results of using washable media filters like K&N air filters. What I want you to take notice to is not the amount of oil but I want to to pay attention to the grit and dust stuck to the turbo housing. If this filter is doing its job this dirt and grit should not be present at all in the turbo. Here is my turbo after 195K miles and using the BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) since 50K miles (145 total miles) and only on my second filter in 9 years. There are several good qualities when considering a BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) or similar air filter. The first quality is it is a completely sealed unit. Being completely sealed there is no way for dirt to pass through the air filter into the engine. The second quality of a BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) is it is roughly 3x bigger than a stock panel air filter. Being bigger allows more air to enter the engine unrestricted. The third quality of a BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) is the media used in it is a dry paper element. Dirt will not stick to this type media, thus almost eliminating the potential of premature plugging. An accessory to consider with using a BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) is the Outerwear for it. The outerwear is and works as a pre-filter for the BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) It will protect the filter from heavy dust and water, as well as prolongs the life of it. The outerwear is also washable. I have been very happy with my BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) as I now have 109K miles and 5 years on it, and it is just now starting to show dirt. Listed below are the different part numbers used for a BHAF’s: Fleetguard NAPA WIX Donaldson Baldwin Hastings Afe AH19037 2790 42790 B105006 PA2820 AF1012 20-40044 Carquest John Deere Big A Caterpiller Fleetrite Luber-Finer Fram UNI 87790 PMAH19037 93790 3I0005 AHR819037 LAF2531 CA6818 908 You can find a BHAF at Vulcan BHAF Link Amazon BHAF Link How to test the filter minder BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) Life in Idaho Taking A Closer Look At K&N Filters As for the life of a BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) I've gotten up to 130K miles and 6 years and still never pulled the filter minder down. But started thinking I'm pushing my luck so I change out the filter at 130K miles and 6 years of back country dirt roads and forestry roads. As you can see the filter minder still hasn't moved... Heat Shield Template for The BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) Here is the template for the heat shield shown in my pictures above. Alternate BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) Part Number This is copied from smokey burnouts at http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/65116-bhaf.html#post643174 Well this is just info for all who might be interested: NAPA BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) number is: 2790, which most of us know and is priced at about $70-75 But i got a NAPA 6637 which is a very large filter for only $54...might save some folks some cash...and it fits on the factory hose!!! Mopar1973man... 6637 is another you can add to you list of filters BHAF_Template.doc
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B H A F BIG HONKING AIR FILTER This is a short list of BHAF that can be used on the Cummins 5.9L diesel. Some of the BHAF are the same size and will be listed together. L= length, OD= outside diameter, ID= inside connection diameter, BHAF: NAPA FIL 2790, WIX 42790, Fleetguard AH19037, Hastings Af1012, and Baldwin PA2820 L 11.88” OD 10.50” ID 4.0” Pre filter for above BHAF FILTERWEARS F105K BHAF: Napa FIL 6637, WIX 46637, Fleetguard AH1141, Hastings AF2329, Donaldson ECB085011, Baldwin PA2818 and Cummins 3912020 L 12.38” OD 8.50” ID 4.0” Pre filter for above BHAF FILTERWEARS K104k Donaldson B105006 L 10.50” OD 10.50” ID 4.0” Surface area 12.38"h x 8.5"d = 330.59 in² 10.50"h x 10.5"d = 346.35 in² ~ 04% larger than #1 11.88"h x 10.5"d = 391.87 in² ~ 18% larger than #1 ~ 13% larger than #2 Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: ibmobile 3/10/2018 View full Cummins article -
So I've been wring in my PacBrake into my dodge and i want to install a dryer into the system. But I'm have problems with designing and then where to buy the parts to do this. Does NAPA carry this stuff, or where do you guys go to pick up air line fittings and hose for trucks? The set up that Pacbrake has may work great in Arizona, but up here in NJ and PA I don't need frozen lines on an exhaust brake. -
For all of you that are looking to help you Cummins Turbo Diesel breathe better well there is several different kits, filters, etc. on the market. I'm not going to bend your arm to follow my lead but I will explain why I made this choice.First off there are filters like K & N on the market that are washable and re-useable. Well I'm going to suggest you forget using these filters. When you wash a filter your going to put wear on the media and eventually open holes up in the media to allow passage of dirt. Another problem is most people over oil the filters and the turbo sucks oil in on the compressor wheel. If there is a dirt leak you will see a dirt compressor wheel and it will cause turbo damage.So when you look at a BHAF or similar filter you will see a completely sealed unit. There is no way for dirt to get pass the filter into the engine. Also the BHAF is roughly 3x bigger than the stock panel filter so this allows more air to enter the engine unrestricted. Another bonus is the media is a dry paper element so the dirt will not stick to the media and cause it to plug premature.The down side to a BHAF is the price. They are roughly $50-60 bucks. So if your smart you buy a filter and get the outerwears pre-filter for it. It will protect the filter from heavy dust and water. It will make the filter last for a very long time.I've gotten about 60K miles on my BHAF now and it is now just getting really dirty.Here is also the listing of different part numbers for a BHAF below...Part Numbers of BHAF filters
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I Got my BHAF Filter from carquest today & when i tried to install it i cannot make the hose fit the back of filter. Is there a pipe that must connect the two?????? :confused:
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Well here we go. I have a AFE intake filter stage 1, a friends idea is the stock filter is better then the AFE, in that it is not sealed good enough to keep the hot air from the engine from being sucked in,and that these type of filters itself will get pin holes and allow dirt in, thus losing horse power, were as the stock air filter draws from the cooler air in the fender and do not get the pin holes, any thoughts.............thanks
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While poking around under the hood yesterday, I decided to check out the air box. The FILTER MINDER said everything is good... The FILTER didn't agree !!
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ive been seeing on here alot of people running a BHAF. what exactly is this, what are the advantages of running one? sorry if this is a dumb question but i havent ever heard of this
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Well I had been noticing that my filter seemed a little bit dirty but never thought to check the turbo Yesterday I noticed it had an oil residue which I could of sworn it was perfectly clean with the oem filter 15,000 miles ago I just picked up and replaced with the napa 6637 part number filter Do you think my amsoil filter wasn't working so great or would this residue be from a seal within the turbo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yesterday I checked my air filter and found that a mouse had started chewing it. No gaping hole, but getting there. I realized that the factory air box is nothing more than a nice "mouse motel" and decided that it was time for a BHAF as they are covered with steel mesh and not so easy to eat through.I did a search and didn't find too much regarding how to mount this thing so I thought of making a steel bracket from 1.5" x 10" steel strap 1/16" thick, [see last photo]. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end of the air filter and put a bolt with a large flat washer through from the inside and bolted the bracket to it using thread locker and two nuts so the bolt couldn't come loose (and go through the turbo). The bolt fits the hole very tight so I don't have to worry if it did happen to come loose. As you can see I used some RTV silicone to cover the nuts and prevent corrosion. I then drilled a 11/16" hole for the air filter monitor and installed it. I attached it to the fender with a exhisting 13mm fender bolt. I made that side of the bracket with slot instead of a hole, so that when I want to remove the air filter all I have to do is loosen the 13mm bolt and the pipe clamp on the other end, and lift it out.The filter sits about 3/4" below the hood, and has several inches of clearance under and around it. I did think of making a heat sheild, however, after talking to Mopar1973man decided not to. Mike says that they aren't necessary so I thought I would try it this way without one.The filter is a NAPA #6637 and was about $62 total.Any input pro or con is welcome. Always trying to build a better mouse trap (pardon the pun).Bob
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I got the Donaldson B105006 off E-Bay for $52.25 shipped to my door. When I removed the filter box the I found that the 3 retaining bolts are built in to the fender. What do you do in order to mount the BHAF? Do you grind them off level with the top of the fender, or leave then as they are? MOHOK
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What is the verdict on using a Fram BHAF? I have used Fram oil filters on my truck for 85k miles without any problems. I used Fram Air Filters on my truck before I got the S&B Cold Air Intake. I think the S&B upgrade was a waste of money. Additionally, I have run Fram filters in most of the vehicles I have owned over the past 50 years. Mohok
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Cleaning Turbo Compressor Housing
els1958 posted a topic in 2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
Compressor housing is pretty grimy, but I thought the blades looked ok (except for my finger prints!). Notice that the intake hose is quite clean as well as the lid to the filter box (I've never cleaned those). Here's my question: Can I carefully wipe of the filter housing and quit there? Or, do I need to clean more of the turbo unit? Why is it that the intake hose and filter box is clean and the compressor housing is not?Thanks,Eric
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Where do you find these filters? and what are there referance #'s
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So i thought i'd go out and remove the silencer ring today for kicks (not a big difference in whistle IMO ) and this is what my turbo looks like. Is the oil residue normal,and if you look close it looks as if the impeller or whatever you call it, rubs the housing, but I can spin it and it doesn't scrape at all even though it awefully clean where it spins. I pull in and out with no movement that I can tell and maybe a hint of up and down movement. On a last note, sorry to beat this boost elbow to death but the picture with the elbow and the hose coming off it, is that where I install the new one? Here's the turbo pics Which of the three here is the one to get, or in the end are they all going to be just as good? http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/bd-diesel/performance-elbow.htm http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/edge/boost-elbow.htm http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/adjustable-turbocharger-boost-elbow-fitting-cummins-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb4512df4QQitemZ200593714676QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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I have had a few people ask what my heat sheilds look like so here's mine. Nothing fancy and it needs paint.
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Just got my BHAF installed with the stock tube and a black outerwear. Holy hell, my turbo is screaming. Atleast my truck sounds fast now, hahaha. Couldn't use the filter minder due to a crack at the bottom. Guess I'll just leave it out for now and maybe pick a new one up later. So far very happy with it.Question though, the bolts sticking up through the fender for the stock air box, did most just leave those in place? I left them just in case I ever switch back and didnt really even look to see if they came out.
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I had the impression (obiviously erroneous) that mice didn't like diesel intakes. WRONG!! I've been holding off the BHAF install, waiting until the AC & heater repair gets done, so rather than the BHAF get bunged up by the shop (cracked the cover the last time... never told me... I did a super-glue repair). So the first shop didn't even start the job, so I brought the truck home & made an appointment elsewhere. For some reason I decided to pull the stock air box & at least start the BHAF install. Like it says in the title, the stock airbox was full of trashed sound-deadening insulation. I'd already removed & thrown away the under hood blanket as it was attracting mice. I don't know where they found enough but the box was more full than not. I bagged the stuff on top, the bottom layer was both stuck & wet with mouse piss (presumeably) to the bottom of the air box. The filter had picked up a lot of crap. I banged it off against the tire & then dragged out the air hose... I hope I didn't breath in too much dust. I think I magaged to get the filter back to useable condition. Just came in to scrub my hands a couple of times. I don't want to buy a new filter, only to disgard it in a couple of weeks... probably only drive to the next garage since it's not inspected. I guess I'll be screening the stock airbox before it goes back on. The BHAF install is looking challenging. I've got to pick up some chafe protection for the AC line... The elbow I bought seems to interfer with the battery & it's a bit smaller than the battery tray! I have to figure out the placement. I'm on-line to study the pictures... -
I was a little disappointed this afternoon when I tried to install my new BHAF & it seemed like there wasn't enough space to close the hood.....I just got a Donaldson DuraLite off Vulcan Performance like a lot of folks are using.....Anybody have any idea how much space is usually left after installing the BHAF between the top of the filter & the hood.....It didn't really look like it fit to me & I definitely don't want any warping in the hood..... Also, does anybody have an idea if those bolts for the factory air box can be taken out from the bottom side.....I didn't really feel like removing my fender liner to find out if they could be taken out.....wasn't sure if anybody had their's removed.....I just wanted to be able to put them back later in case I went back to the factory box...Thanks... --- Update to the previous post... sorry, accidentally put this one in the wrong forum....
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Should I change to BHAF? I just read a post that said K&N were junk. I bought the truck with it on there. Not a puller or racer just use it for work. I do pull loads ,GCVW about 35000. Just put fuel press. gauge on so empty I have 16#, and WOT better than 14#. Am looking to put more gauges on. I did go across the scale today with a load of wood that weighted GCVW 42100#, that was my truck & trailer. Hauled it down the road pretty good never cut the edge on and was up to 55 in about a mile. I M INPRESSED.
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I read this thread on CF apparently an 04 (AF forward) with a CAI plugged with snow & restricted air flow. Is this an issue with BHAF? Is there an issue with water or snow through the fender or fender hood crack? Interested in members exteriences. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/355786-plugged-air-filter-snow.html
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I take it a BHAF is out so what is everybody running on there 04's
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I wanting to make my own air intake since the aftermarket ones are SO expensive. So anyone made there own and would like to share your idea lets see it. I am Looking for ideas. -
Well guys, after many many days of studying on which intake to get I finally decided to go with a BHAF. Then I was looking on ebay and found the AEM Bruteforce for a great price (not much more that I would have paid for BHAF and pre filter). Got it yesterday and installed it asap. Looks sharp and sounds great. Dry flow filter. Install was simple:thumbup2: I did notice a bit of improvement in acceleration and truck seems to wanna go a little more. Over all I am very satisfied with it. Just my .02. Just thought I would give a simple review for anyone thinking of getting it. I cant say if its any better or worse than BHAF since I have not tried BHAF as of yet but I do like how it looks sitting in there. I cant figure out how to upload short vid of it but its on youtube if anyones interested. just enter 2001 cummins aem bruteforce
