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Found 29 results

  1. My search of the site may have missed this topic, so if it's elsewhere, please point me in that direction. My situation is this. I have an 04 Ram 2500 4x4, 5.9 auto tranny with 170k on it. From what I can tell it's a stock truck, no extra tuning, or significant upgrades. I use it to carry around my pop-up, slide-in camper, which when loaded, is probably at 1800#. I'm pretty religious on keeping the "wear" items" (brakes, fluids, alignment . . . ) maintained. My issue is; twice now I've had the brakes over heat on steep grades. Once was while in the back country of BC (logging roads) the most recent, in the mountains of Baja (San Pedro Martir). In both cases the roads were fair macadam or seal coat surface, winding, narrow, long 15+m and steep, + 8% in parts. In both cases I've had newish brakes heavy duty brakes yet these would overheat to the point of smoking and require, as the brits would say, tea stop, to let them cool off. In the last case I ended up put the system into 4-low first gear and let he engine & tranny crawl us out of the mountains. This worked but I have a sense this isn't he best option. That brings me to this forum and post. Do I get more bang for the dollar installing an exhaust brake system (pacbrake seems to be a preferred choice) or going with an upgraded friction system like EBC or SSCB? For the latter, I'm thinking slotted rotors (larger if possible) pads and calipers. In either case I'd the installation would need to be done by a shop. I don't have the skill, time or tools for this type if work. Thanks in advance for any input.
  2. All I seem to be having the common problem of my ABS and Brake light on my dash being on, so I am following the document below, and it seems that my 4WD light does not come on when I shift into 4WD (been like this for a while though), so I replaced the switch last night. The truck will still go into 4WD with front tires pulling, but the light still does not come on. I did test the switch and the 4WD light will come on when I have the wire harness connected and I use my fingers to hold the switch down, but not when the switch is mounted in the axle. With this being said is this a different issue and I still may have a bad ABS sensor? Any insight on further troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. Note I do not think it is the rear ABS sensor since my speed sensor is working.
  3. It appears my booster is leaking inside the truck. Just a drip but I saw on the floor mat today. Rebuilding it does not look that difficult. What have some of you folks done for yours?
  4. Ok guys I need some input. I just got my abs module back from Module Masters and put it in the truck and what do you know, no abs light, motor isn't continuously running, Yes! So stinking happy. Drive about two miles, getting off the freeway and look down and see the abs and brake light on. Crap. So I get out of the truck,open the hood... The motor is running. So module Masters says they will take of it, they didn't hassle me whatsoever, which is nice. But my question, could something be going through my electrical system and causing that relay or whatever it is to fail? I'm guna order a fluke ( either 114 or 115, not sure what would be better) and test the alternator for ac noise. But can it be another issue? Two years of the abs light staring at me, I want it gone for good.
  5. Hey Folks, Its been a while since I've been here, but now I need a little help. After I drove 15 miles to work, I noticed a burning smell, but dismissed it to be from somewhere else. Driving home, I noticed a slight hum and also some unusual vibration. I thought I may have a seriously low tire. Not so. By the time I got home, the burn smell was very strong. I felt the rear wheels. Whoa! Both rear wheels were super hot - I couldn't keep a hand on them more than a second. I pulled a wheel and didn't notice anything unusual - I think. What's going on here? Thanks in advance. Eric
  6. Ok I posted a while back about some issues I was having with the hydroboost system. The power steering pump went out and I replaced it. Then the hydroboost started making lots of noise, and shuddering when the brakes were applied. I would lose power steering altogether at an idle, but all this only happened after about 5 minutes of driving. Today I finally broke down and swapped the hydroboost I still have the same problems.... I'm at my wits end here wit this thing! I don't know what else to do. Btw it an 01 2wd.
  7. Replacing Later Model ABS Speed Sensors I would like to make a shout out to the member that sent me the front sensor back in the spring of the year. Long overdue but now I got the time to replace my well wore out and damaged ABS sensors. So here we go I'm going to do both side. Total time to replace is 30 minutes for both. Start out by jacking up the front axle and jack standing the axle for safety. Now remove the tire using the proper socket and impact gun. Mine being aftermarket wheels is a 3/4" socket. After the wheel is removed grab a large flat blade screwdriver and pry both caliper piston back a little. Now using a 5/8" 12 point socket remove the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Now lift off the caliper and frame as a assembly. Now you should be able to remove the rotor. Note: Early series trucks have the rotors held in place by the wheel studs which requires removal of the unit bearing. Now grab a proper sized Allen wrench to remove the Allen bolt holding the speed sensor. Now you may lightly bend the shield metal up to gain some room. Now I'm working with the passenger side so I got to get the BHAF and heat shield out of the way. Now I will have access to the connector up top. So now just careful remove all the old ABS sensor and lead taking note of where its routed along the brake line and frame. Now route the new sensor in the very same manner. Making sure to snap in the wire in all the clips and push the holders back into the holes on the frame. Now carefully bend the shield metal back down over the ABS speed sensor. Slide your rotor back up on the wheel studs. If you need to use a pair of open face lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Now slip the caliper and frame back over the rotor. Grab your blue loc-tite and put a bit on the bolts. Re-install the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Before mounting your wheel again double check that the wire is out of the way of any moving parts and not going to be damaged. Now remount your wheel and tire and torque your lug nuts. Now for the lights ABS and BRAKE both lights should go out within a very short amount of travel. Like in my case just getting outside the door frame of the shop the ABS and BRAKE lights went out.
  8. ABS System Diagnostics / Troubleshooting 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Braking System Wiring Diagrams 4 wheel abs system.pdf I find it's really common to hear people complain about ABS and BRAKE lights being lit. There are a few simple things you can do to diagnose your problem. Check your ABS fuses under the hood fuse #11 and check the #3 fuse inside the cab (driver side door jamb). Replace any that are blown. Step on you brake pedal and see if the tail lights light up and turn off when released. If not, repair the brake light switch. Shift the transfer case into 4WD and check if the 4WD light comes on. (4WD equipped vehicles). If not repair the 4WD switch. Does the speedometer work? If so, the rear speed sensor in the differential is functional. So now that you done that much that means that it one of the front speed sensors that has either become disconnected or the sensor has failed. If the lights remain the only way I know to diagnose this correctly is at a Dodge dealer. They have the tools to hook up to the ABS computer and pull the error codes and tell you what has failed. Once you've repaired the problem you must drive the vehicle to reset the ABS and BRAKE lights. Also, take the second and check the error codes on the ECM/PCM and reset any error codes. Description - CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) monitors wheel speed sensor inputs continuously while the vehicle is in motion. However, the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) will not activate any ABS components as long as sensor inputs indicate normal braking. During normal braking, the master cylinder, power booster and wheel brake units all function as they would in a vehicle without ABS. The HCU components are not activated. The purpose of the antilock system is to prevent wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip. Preventing lockup helps maintain vehicle braking action and steering control. The antilock CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) activates the system whenever sensor signals indicate periods of wheel slip. Periods of wheel slip occur when brake stops involve high pedal pressure and rate of vehicle deceleration. The antilock system prevents lockup during a wheel slip condition by modulating fluid apply pressure to the wheel brake units. Brake fluid applies pressure is modulated according to wheel speed, a degree of slip and rate of deceleration. Sensors at each front wheel convert wheel speed into electrical signals. These signals are transmitted to the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) for processing and determination of wheel slip and deceleration rate. The ABS system has three fluid pressure control channels. The front brakes are controlled separately and the rear brakes in tandem. A speed sensor input signal indicating a wheel slip condition activates the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) antilock program. There are Two solenoid valves (Isolation and Dump valve) which are used in each antilock control channel. The valves are all located within the HCU valve body and work in pairs to either increase, hold, or decrease apply pressure as needed in the individual control channels. During an ABS stop, the ISO valve actuates, Stopping any more pressure buildup to the calipers. Then the Dump valve dumps off pressure until the wheel unlocks. This will continue until the wheels quit slipping altogether. Operation - System Self-Test Battery voltage is supplied to the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) when a speed of 15 miles per hour is reached. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) performs a system initialization procedure at this point. Initialization consists of a static and dynamic self-check of system electrical components. The static and dynamic checks occur at ignition start up. During the dynamic check, the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) briefly cycles the pump and solenoids to verify operation. An audible noise may be heard during this self-check. This noise should be considered normal. If an ABS component exhibits a fault during initialization, the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) illuminates the amber warning light and registers a fault code in the microprocessor memory. Mopar's Note: OBDII Testing / DRBIII Testing As for testing equipment the ODBII code reader will only see P0500 error code but the DRBIII tool that Dodge dealer has been capable of seeing all speed sensors and test the ABS braking system for it faults. A lot of people ask me how much a DRBIII tool cost... They are approximate $6,000.00 for a DRBIII tool. So it might be worth a trip to the dealer and have them diagnose the system for you. Speed Sensor Operation The Wheel Speed Sensor consists of a magnet surrounded by windings from a single strand of wire. The sensor sends a small AC signal to the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes). This signal is generated by magnetic induction. The magnetic induction is created when a toothed sensor ring (exciter ring or tone wheel) passes the stationary magnetic WSS. When the ring gear is rotated, the exciter ring passes the tip of the WSS. As the exciter ring tooth approaches the tip of the WSS, the magnetic lines of force expand, causing the magnetic field to cut across the sensor's windings. This, in turn, causes current to flow through the WSS circuit in one direction. When the exciter ring tooth moves away from the sensor tip, the magnetic lines of force collapse cutting the winding in the opposite direction. This causes the current to flow in the opposite direction. Every time a tooth of the exciter ring passes the tip of the WSS, an AC signal is generated. Each AC signal (positive to negative signal or sine wave) is interpreted by the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes). It then compares the frequency of the sinewave to a time value to calculate vehicle speed. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) continues to monitor the frequency to determine a deceleration rate that would indicate a possible wheel-locking tendency. The signal strength of any magnetic induction sensor is directly affected by: Magnetic field strength; the stronger the magnetic field, the stronger the signal Number of windings in the sensor; more windings provide a stronger signal Exciter ring speed; the faster the exciter ring/tone wheel rotates, the stronger the signal will be Distance between the exciter ring teeth and WSS; the closer the WSS is to the exciter ring/tone wheel, the stronger the signal will be The rear WSS is not adjustable. A clearance specification has been established for manufacturing tolerances. If the clearance is not within these specifications, then either the WSS or other components may be damaged. The clearance between the WSS and the exciter ring is 0.005 - 0.050 in. Resetting the ABS / BRAKE light You must repair/replace the damaged sensor/unit of the ABS braking system then drive the vehicle a short distance at road speeds before the lights will go off. The ABS module does an on the fly diagnostic of all the system and if all sensor is reporting properly the system will automatically reset at a speed of 15 MPH. WARNING! Do not disconnect the batteries to try to reset the ABS/BRAKE lights. All this does is wipe out the APPS sensor calibration in the ECM. But it will not reset ABS error code. CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) Inputs The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) continuously monitors the speed of the differential ring gear by monitoring signals generated by the rear wheel speed sensor. The CAB determines a wheel locking tendency when it recognizes the ring gear is decelerating too rapidly. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) monitors the following inputs to determine when a wheel locking tendency may exist: Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Brake Lamp Switch Brake Warning Lamp Switch Reset Switch 4WD Switch (If equipped) CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) Outputs The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) controls the following outputs for anti-lock braking and brake warning information: RWAL Valve ABS Warning Lamp Brake Warning Lamp Mopar's Notes: P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel anti-lock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensors could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.
  9. Ok so about 2 months ago I resealed my hydroboost using the moparman recommended guide and solve a leak problem but before I could do that my wife drove the truck around 70 miles and 65mph or higher which lead to the death ofy original power steering pump. Having replaced the PS pump the HB unit makes lots of noise when turning the wheels and pulses the brake pedal fairly hard when the breaks are applied. I've flushed the old fluid out. Jacked the front wheels up and turned them lock to lock, and tried my best to avoid any foam. I thought the problem had been solved but a 5 minute drive proved otherwise. Any thoughts on this? Or tricks I haven't tried?
  10. Guys, hello and thanks for having me aboard! I just sold my 2008 5.4 SuperDuty for a very clean 2002 Sport Quad cab 8' 4x4 Cummins with an automatic. Picked it up in Virginia on Saturday and drove her home 300 miles and averaged 20.7 mpg. I have over 400 miles on the trip clock and have still have 3/8 tank- i cant believe this fuel economy, Unreal! Anyway, after the drive home I got under the truck to give it a once over with my creeper and trouble light and saw no major issues. Today, after it being very cold here in SW PA, I noticed fluid on the inside rear tire. Under closer inspection, It appears to be brake fluid, and after more inspection, seems to be pushing fluid past the caliper seals and brake components on ALL 4 CORNERS! Anyone heard of this before? Its dark and I was using a flash light on snow, but I am totally freaked out after owning this for 4 days, Any help appreciated. AP
  11. Not sure if this will work or if anyone has tried this. I just finished with doing my front brakes and the parts guy commented of replacing the calipers. A mechanic said that if the calipers where working then no need to replace them, but I started looking on the internet. I noticed that the calipers for a Ram Van 2500 looks just like the calipers on the pickup except that it is two pistons instead of the pickups single piston. I have been looking in to doing a free spin hub conversion and one of the comments that I have read is that the Ford has better brakes because of the two piston calipers. So what I am wondering is if anyone has tried the van calipers on the pickup front end?
  12. So I just finished doing my front brakes on my 99. Everyone says how hard they are to get off, glad my truck came from California, they just fell off. Getting them back on was a chore though, no one ever says how hard they are to reinstall. It took me an hour to take both sides apart and about three hours to put everything back together. Although some of that time was cleaning up the dirty parts. One thing I did find interesting was that my bearings did not have ABS sensors on them, I thought that they would? Not complaining, just was surprised not to see them on my truck.
  13. I recently had to replace my steering box due to a broken output shaft. Put a upgraded Borgeson steering box on the truck that I got used for a good price. Worked fine on the truck it came off of. Ever since the brake pedal has been really hard to push initially, then when it gets past the hard spot in the pedal, the brakes seem to almost lock up and toss you into the dash. The steering assist is almost non existant at idle. The assist goes away completely when using the brakes. Steering acts completely normal driving down the road but the brake problem is still present. Just installed a new Borgeson power steering pump on to replace the old one per their recommendation. No air in the system, currently waiting on a return e-mail/phone call from Borgeson and thought I would see if anyone else has ran into this issue before.
  14. A while back I had my rear drivers side axle out to replace the wheel seal that was leaking and I noticed my backing plate was getting pretty ripe. Kind of said to myself, wonder when i'll have to replace that ? Found out tonight that it's now! Noticed the emergency brake was going alot further today and wasn't releasing well so I jacked it up tonight to adjust it, but noticed the star wheel for adjusting the shoes was sloppy. Thought I should take the rotor off and look ,and bam, backing plate was rotted off and the one side of the brake shoes let go. Looks like I know what I'll be doing in a couple days when my parts come :banghead:
  15. my abs and brake light has been on since i bought the truck and after doing some reading i figured that it might be the rear sensor, so when I was at autozone ( or the twilight zone depends on who's working) I picked up a rear speed sensor. Then, i heard if the speedo is working (mine was), probably not the rear so i didn't install it figuring maybe i'll stop by my friend shop and use the snapon scanner that can read abs codes when I get a chance. Today I put the back axle up on some stands and pointed it away from the house and ran it in 6th gear, because i'am trying to isolate a 60-70mph heavy vibration and guest what no speedo. So, with the truck already in the air and the sensor on the front seat I gave it a shot. No light! Back to diagnosing the vibration.
  16. Okay so I need some help with my Dad's 91 D350. In the past year we've replaced: (in no particular order) both front calipers, front soft lines, shoes all around and a new brake booster since the old one went out. The brakes work like they should except for the fact that you just barley press down on the brake pedal and the wheels lockup so I'm not sure whats causing it. Any help/advise is greatly appreciated and I'll do my best to get you any additional info you might want.
  17. Can you steal take your truck for the recall if its 14ys old?Has anyone else had this work done? I found out about it on the net after i started having brake problems.I have new brakes and bleed all the lines. I do not have full pedel. The recall sayes dealer well do a vacuum pump check and replace a hose that is engine oil resistant.
  18. I am ready to upgrade the front disk brakes on my truck now that I have the 17" rims/tires on it. What recommendations do you have for new disks/pads? My budget will only allow a total of $300 for rotors, brackets and pads, so please keep this in mind. Fancy rotors may be nice to have, but the budget is my limitation.
  19. i can't fine a replacement line that goes from the side of the booster to the pressure line coming from the steering gearbox. any help would be appreciated:banghead: i have replaced the o-rings, the booster itself, even went to a hyd shop. they are checking if they can get the fittings. i ordered a new line from dodge, but the ordered was cancelled; they don't make it anymore. it's only a '01:( help!!
  20. Ok, the truck pulled hard to the left twice in a 2 week period. I pulled the drivers side caliper today and it has rotor metal on the pads and the rotor is slightly screwed because of it. So apparently the caliper was sticking. I may need a new rotor but not sure yet. It's possible a place in town can just turn the rotor.I can get new ones for $65 plus new pads.So........my question is what do you do about the passenger side. I've already pulled the caliper and rotor and all looks well on this side.
  21. Yesterday I had a horrible vibration while braking so when I got home I pulled the front tires and found my pads and rotors where shot. I've only had the truck a little over 6 months and never checked them (my fault).So, I went to NAPA and spent $250 on rotors, pads, seals, and grease. I started w/ the passengers side first since it was the worst. I cleaned and repacked the wheel bearings and installed the new rotor (my truck is 2WD). When I went to install the new pads and the caliper they simply would not fit. I compressed the piston in the caliper w/ a c-clamp as far as it would go and still couldn't get it to fit. Now I'm thinking my caliper is bad, the piston is scored or debris is in it and that's why the passengers side was the worse. So, I head to NAPA, they are closed, so now to O'Riely (my second choice). I pick up a new caliper, go home and still the same problem.Long story short I just got home from NAPA this morning. I took all the parts and had them double check. I've got all the right parts according to them. Their only suggestion was to install 7500 GVWR pads. I took the 7500 pads b/c we've got a winter storm coming and I want to get the truck off the jack stands and out of the driveway. Here's a list of the NAPA parts I purchased yesterday:Pads: ss-7339mRotor/Hub Assymb: 4886452Wheel Seals: 21756The pads they gave me today are p/n ss-7260mThe 7260 pads appear to be almost identical to the 7339 except the steel plate for the inboard pad isn't soild where it slides into the caliper and the pads are not as thick.The sticker in my door clearly states that the truck has a 8800 lb GVWR. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm at a loss as to what to do. There has to be a reason why they make two different rated pads and I'm afraid to drive the truck now (especially w/ a load) until I get this resolved. In the mean time I need to get it out of the way so my wife can get her car in the garage.Any help or advise is appreciated greatly.
  22. My brakes have been worse than normal lately and with new pads on the front, I knew it had to be the back. My driver side was all sludged with rear end oil so I guess there is a inner seal on the hub leaking.I got my axle out but there is some kind of little lock nut that I need to remove and ive never seen anything like it before. My jeeps never had anything like this full floater and I have never worked on one before so if you have any tips I would greatly appreciate it!
  23. My lights are on and it pulses like a bad rotor.Can anyone tell me what to check.I had all this problem before i replaced the wheelbearings,rotors and ball-u-joints.When i am light on them around 30mph it seems ok, hit them hard the pedal pulses.I only have a smarty to check codes so i cant get into the abs computer.
  24. Hello I have an early 2001 2500 4X4 sport with rear drum brakes, I am in the process of changing brakes and I am looking for some help. I purchased the brake hardware kit and the one the parts store(orielys)shows for my truck is not correct. Any one have any idea's or maybe had the same issue before. I would like to see an exploded parts breakdown if anyone has a link I would really appreciate it. It appears the shop that did the job last put left and right on the wrong sides the auto adjusters where not contacting the star wheels, the shoes look new no wonder I had such lousy brakes I complained to them several times and got no satisfaction. Was unable to do them the last time because of work.ThanksDavid
  25. 2001 dodge cummins 4x4 auto trans . do i have 4 wheel abs?
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