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Found 8 results

  1. Hi gents, New here to the forum picked myself up a 2002 24v a few months back, I'm still in school so haven't got to working on the truck much yet but did notice I had a few codes when I bought it: P1594 - Charging system voltage too high P1492 - Ambient/Battery temp sensor volts too high P1763 - Governor pressure sensor volts too high Anyone had any experience on where to start with these codes? Truck runs well, only problem is when it warms up it seems to have a rough idle when not in gear. No issues starting even in the middle of winter, fires right up. Thanks in advance for the help.
  2. Hey all, I have a 2001 24v and a few months ago i started noticing the throttle acting weird / revving up and letting off on its own a tiny bit when cruising around 55mph, I would then put it on cruise control and wouldn't notice it. Then the other day I noticed after driving on the highway/ with cruise control I'd get off to get fuel and the truck would be idling high around 1k until I shut it off and re start then it would be fine. Finally on the trip home I was running 70mph with cruise control on and the cruise control cut off and the throttle went unresponsive and threw a check engine light. I did the key thing to get the codes on the dash and got p0500,p1693,p0121,p0523,p0602. I'm running a Smarty and from my uneducated google knowledge I'm assuming I have a bad apps and if I replace it I should be good to go. My question for all of you is, is my assumption of having a bad apps correct, is there anything else I should look into from those codes. Also if I do need a apps where should I buy it. My brother inlaw is a self employed mechanic and seems to get parts cheaper if thats a consideration, i'm pretty sure thats just threw people he has accounts with though such as orileys, napa places like that. All your help and knowledge would be appreciated. Thank you.
  3. I need some help. I run a 2001 3500 2w drive dually 5 sp pulling a 40 gn trailer. Starting friday afternoon, my truck would get sudden power loses, usually in 5th gear. It will surge several times then resume operating normally. I might drive several hundred miles then out of the blue it will start surging again. I depress the clutch to see if it dies but it just goes to idle. When it's running right there is no problem, no lose of power and no misses. This is what I have done to it since march, I've put in a new lift pump, we have some wiring issues to the lift pump which was corrected and the block pump is completely out of the picture. The lift pump is an in tank model. I checked the lift pump on Saturday and it's putting out 15psi at idle and 13psi at 2000rpm. The only code I get is a 1593 but when I put my odbII reader on it it shows no codes. I have replaced the TPS couple of months ago, I got new bosch 40 horse injectors with new fuel tubes. I would say that there may be a short in the electrical to the pump but it would die when I clutched it but it doesn't just goes to idle with no misses, normal rpm. I am wondering if the lift pump is going bad and is slowing down causing the pressure to drop, the engine can idle on lower fuel pressure but not run higher. I'm at a lose, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  4. ABS Failure - Diagnostics Tips 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System 2 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (RWAL - Rear Wheel Anti-Lock) I find its really common to hear people complain about ABS and BRAKE lights being lit. There is a few simple things you can do to diagnose your problem. [*] Check your ABS fuses under the hood fuse #11 and check the #3 fuse inside the cab (driver side door jamb). Replace any that are blown. [*]Step on you brake pedal and see if the tail lights light up and turn off when released. If not repair the brake light switch. [*]Shift the transfer case into 4WD and check if the 4WD light comes on. (4WD equipped vehicles). If not repair the 4WD switch. [*]Does the speedometer work? If so the rear speed sensor in the differential is functional. So now that you done that much that means that it one of the front speed sensors that has either become disconnected or the sensor has failed. If the lights remain the only way I know to diagnose this correctly is at a Dodge dealer. They have the tools to hook up to the ABS computer and pull the error codes and tell you what has failed. Once you've repaired the problem you must drive the vehicle to reset the ABS and BRAKE lights. Also take the second and check the error codes on the ECM/PCM and reset any error codes. Description - CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) The Controller Antilock Brakes (CAB) is a microprocessor which handles testing, monitoring and controllingthe ABS brake system operation (Fig. 10). The CAB functions are: [*] Perform self-test diagnostics. [*]Monitor the RWAL brake system for proper operation. [*]Control the RWAL valve solenoids. NOTE: If the CAB needs to be replaced, the rear axle type and tire revolutions per mile must be programed into the new CAB. For axle type refer to Group 3 Differential and Driveline. For tire revolutions per mile,(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/TIRES - SPECIFICATIONS) . To program the CAB refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual. Operation - System Self-Test When the ignition switch is turned-on the microprocessor RAM and ROM are tested. If an error occurs during the test, a DTC will be set into the RAM memory. However it is possible the DTC will not be stored in memory if the error has occurred in the RAM module were the DTC’s are stored. Also it is possible a DTC may not be stored if the error has occurred in the ROM which signals the RAM to store the DTC. CAB Inputs The CAB continuously monitors the speed of the differential ring gear by monitoring signals generated by the rear wheel speed sensor. The CAB determines a wheel locking tendency when it recognizes the ring gear is decelerating too rapidly. The CAB monitors the following inputs to determine when a wheel locking tendency may exists: [*] Rear Wheel Speed Sensor [*]Brake Lamp Switch [*]Brake Warning Lamp Switch [*]Reset Switch [*]4WD Switch (If equipped) CAB Outputs The CAB controls the following outputs for antilock braking and brake warning information: [*] RWAL Valve [*]ABS Warning Lamp [*]Brake Warning Lamp P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel antilock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensor could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.
  5. First id like to introduce myself, im from delaware and have a 99 3500 dually. My problem is the trans shudders alil bit around 40-50mph, i took it to the trans shop and they got 2 codes, 1693 on the engine side and 1682 on the trans side of the tester. i know the 1682 is a charging issue, coyuld this cause the trans to act up? also, when i start the truck for the first min or so, the volts read way low like at 10, then slowly rise up to above 14v, while at idle the truck will have kinda like sudden dips in the lites and the noise the fuel pump makes dip for a sec and then normal, any help would be great, looking forward to the site as well, im fairly new to the cummins. thanks!
  6. How do we reset the computers on our trucks??I think all I need to do is reset them to get my rig going can anyone help? thankx
  7. I've been wanted to get one for general use but not wanting to spend a lot. Present vehicles are the 01 Dodge, 87 Cirrus, 12 Hundai... With HF, never pay list price... got it on sale for $50. I'm willing to look up codes on line. After the stealership read my codes, charged me for it & then said "there weren't any"... I decided I needed to read my own codes.
  8. NO TEMP RISE SEEN FROM INTAKE HEATERS Ok got that part now what I did was eliminate the heater (Ca. warm wheather) to get a little more flow, I left the solenoids hooked up and insulated the heater ends in hope of fooling the computer no luck so wondering what you guys do to keep from thrown this code
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