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Showing results for tags 'crank'.
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Hello again, I have had this starting problem for about 6 or 8 months now at least and I'm getting tired of it. I cant find any write ups online about it. Its a 1998 dodge cummins obviously. I don't really know how to describe it cause it is so random and all the lights work and try fires up fine once it finally cranks over. I'de guess about every 40th turn of the key is a dud and then the next 20 or 30 cranks after that are dude until the truck decides it wants to crank over and start. What could this be? I have checked every fuse in the truck that a test light can check. I have eyeballed all the square fuses under the hood. Everything seems okay. It has a new ignition in it, my father replaced it before i got the truck cause he thought that was the cause of the truck dieing(was vp44/ecm) so got new vp44 and rebuilt ecm. I believe it was the ignition anyways. I have the part and the box for the new one in it somewhere. Batteries are new and cable end are new with di electric grease slathered generously. It has a oreileys starter on it. It was put on truck when I replaced clutch as my original one was from autozone. But the shop I was at had an oreileys one in the box so we put it on. -
So I've been battling this 01 into a 99 swap on my weekends for the past month or so. (Didn't know I bought the wrong Year) Got her runnin. No tach. Bought the destroked kit which BTW is not made for this swap. Slotted the holes so that the missing 36th tooth is 60deg BTDC. Drilled out the sensor bracket to fit the stock crank sensor. Soldered in some more wire for length and viola. I now have my tach working but I'm blowin white-ish smoke. Unplug the relocated crank sensor and no smoke. I'm thinking that my crank sensor being about 120deg from where it would normally sit in the block is fudgin me up. I'm sure the tone ring is lined up right but I guess the ecm needs to see that gap at a specific place in the rotation. My plan is to build a bracket to line up my sensor excactly the same as where it sits in the block. My question is what all does that gap in the tone ring have an effect on (as far as timing and all that)? Do y'all think this bracket idea will fix me up? I appreciate any info Thanks!! A little back story.... would've swapped the cranks but she broke in the 99 hence the swap. Tore the block all to hell. But she would still fire right up and run. Lacking a bit of power of course. Haha -
Just need a little help. Have an 02 Ram 3500 wont crank until it is placed on a battery charger with a start circuit or left on charge over night. I have replaced the batteries twice, left and right battery cables have been replaced, starter has been replaced, checked fuses and the relay they're all good, cleaned all ground connections put dielectric grease on them. At a serious loss on this. Starts fine if its been sitting on the charger overnight. Some days doesn't need the charger some it does. Have put a meter on the starter and when when the key is turned over there is no draw at the starter or batteries. batteries are both 12.7, 12.8. Any help would be appreciated.
