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Hey all, back again with another problem 🙃 so I have a weird knocking that sounds like it’s coming from the bell housing directly under where the clutch is.. it’s an 01 6 speed with (supposedly) a South Bend Dual Disk. Noise stays even with clutch pedal pressed in, I just don’t hear the discs rattling any more. The noise is proportional with engine rpm. I’m praying to god it’s the flywheel bolts or maybe it’s the original 300k flywheel and the P/O just slapped a new clutch in, which is definitely possible due to other things done on the truck... maybe dual mass flywheel? Clutch spring hitting? Clutch component broken and is stuck in there? I’m almost certain it isn’t injector knock since it did that noise before I swapped with my buddy and he had pretty damn fresh injectors too. YouTube video attached as well. https://youtu.be/WjidpvDkmus you can hear the sound more towards the end when the phone is right under where I’m assuming the clutch assembly is. Hoping the clutch is just on its way out or was installed improperly (not good but better than a rod or bearing)

2001 cummins 24v 5 speed I’ve swapped into a 97 single cab short bed Dodge Ram ss/t i eliminated the harness at the 2 off-engine plugs and ran acc power through relay to give ecm power to run. I recently have purchased a edge comp box and tapped pump wire but engine makes no difference in power with pump tap wire plugged in or unplugged from box. Now here’s the real issue. I can’t remember the exact code off hand but it was a code for a pump solenoid and I believe it’s the pump metering solenoid the comp box taps into. What might be my issue here? I’m new to the forum as well.

So I have a 99 24 valve Cummins with 7x14 injectors, bigger-ish turbo, delivery tubes, and lift pump and no tuner on it. When I shift into any gear when the truck is warm it feels like the truck either has to much load on it or tries to overcompensate and it just stalls out. The Tranny is stock. Was told it has billet converter but I’m not positive. It only does this after the truck has been running at operating temp. First start up in morning it shifts fine no issues. Any ideas???

So you got a Cummins, congrats! But are you getting the best stock performance for what YOU use it for??? Here is some info you may find interesting.. so the HX35 began in 1995, similar spec to the WH1C which was a 94 one year hybring is the H1 series and HX series that honestly I wouldn’t mess with. It’s not really worth building as it’s balanced as an assembly so you can’t drop wheels on or make changes without swapping the turbine also. The center section or bearing housing isn’t that great, the oil paths aren’t as open as the HX. So the HX35 was a 56/60/12 which is the main figures you typically look at in turbo sizing. 56mm inducter (inlet) of the compressor, then 60mm exducer (outlet) on the turbine then finally 12cm which is a air volume measurement. Larger is higher flow with lesser velocity so a slower spool but EGT usually falls as well as response. This can help towing with a loose converter or high rpm with a 16 or 18CM housing you’ll see a EGT drop. So HX35 is a 56/60/12 or 56/82 70/60 HX35W beginning in about 99 is the code for a smaller compressor a 54/78 which is my personal fav turbo for stock or tow applications. The AR of the compressor housing and flow characteristics changed on the W and actually flows only 2lbs less per minute though it’s smaller! That 2lbs you hardly feel BECAUSE the smaller compressor takes less shaft HP to turn to get the same RPM. Essentially to get the same amount of boost it requires a little more rpm but there is a benefit of this, the turbine is now spinning faster allowing exhaust to pass over the blades easier with less restriction as the turbine blades are closer to matching the blade velocity. In turn your drive pressure is a little lower! So that 2lbs a minute compressor loss turns into making the same engine power because it can breath on the exhaust side easier. Your also less likely to bark the W, it will just takes a little more effort because the larger number (exducer) on the compressor is smaller thus less leverage on the shaft during the ‘bark’ which is a pressure fluctuation between the compressor and turbine. now in 2001 due to emissions Cummins changed the turbo to the dreaded HY35...this in my book is the worst stock turbo ever to come on a Cummins along with the HE341 in 2003. This turbo is a 54/58/10. The idea was to improve response but gain some flow in the upper rpm band. The numbers being lower/smaller usually you’d see faster spool right? No! This time they went to an open scroll exhaust housing, issue is open scrolls essentially mix the front and rear 3 cylinder firings together, there is a pulse that assists in spool which is then intermixed in open scrolls causing lag! The pulse can’t hit the turbine direct so it looses velocity and some heat. The HX35 is a twin scroll keeping velocity up and therefore spool. There is more science to it but an open scroll at high boost/rpm will flow a little better vs a twin scroll when compared with the same CM/AR rating. The issue is the turbine dropped from a HX35 70/60 to the HY35 65/58 which is less leverage and less shaft HP also mixed with the lack of cylinder pulse. This was done to offset the open scroll housing but was a fail in my book. So do you have an HY35? 01-02 was factory, easy way to tell is look at the turbine, if there is a V band clamp connecting the center section to the exhaust it’s probably the HY35. Another check is look at the exhaust housing shape, the lump that tappers around the housing will be rounded and narrow instead of a more flat and wide shape. So if you confirmed it’s an HY then search the market for a cheap upgrade AKA HX35W. Changing the turbine side between these turbos make a massive change in response, sound and MPG. The HY can get decent MPG at low rpm but it leave some to be desired. The HX on the other hand can spool as much as 250rpm sooner which makes a big change. Still flows great. Now if your running a larger then 100 over stock injector don’t expect a ton of power gains in the upper rpm band above 2600ish this is more focused on the daily or two rig where response and efficacy matter. EGT, engine load, and drive pressure all drops instantly and in most cases you gain 1-2psi at cruise thanks to the exhaust housing twin scroll and larger turbine wheel making more shaft HP to spin the compressor. The point of this is more usable power under the curve which means a wider and deeper power range available to you and a lower EGT to boot! Now that you know the main point differences, if you want a nice little upgrade trash the HY35 for an HX35W. The HX35 works too but it’s a little more laggy for honestly very little gain. Oh and the HE341 is an HY35 converted for 3rdgen trucks. It’s a 54/58/9, different exhaust housing that flowed better but the best part is the WG design, it flows like mad and exits direct into the down pipe instead of taking 2 sharp 90* turns like the HX meaning way way better flow. The compressor housing changed a little with a 90* outlet and a little larger AR but was quickly scrapped for the HE351 which gained a 60mm inducer compressor. If your good with some fab work a 351CW makes a great upgrade. About another 100hp or so capable of max power thanks to the wastegate and when mulled out you can make some sweet power. It is an open scroll but the large compressor and small turbine with the housing design ended up being very efficient and works pretty well. Now your part throttle cruise EGT maybe up a little, I’ve noticed some MPG drop over the HX35 but if your truck is a worker or you like to race around and have fun, it’s a good turbo to put on for cheap!

So if your running a junky edge comp or juice and want just a little more fun, this is what smoke out put you can expect with a 90hp 7x.0085 VCO injector from DAP. Clean burning and sensible injector for a well balanced rig. Pop pressure on this truck is 300bar. Truck setup: 99 model year, fass 95, edge juice (same program as comp), 4” exhaust, HX35W, garbage jasper trans, triple disc, 4.10 gear. this specific truck doesn’t have the pump tap installed due to a new VP44 installed so this is just stock, level 1/sub 1 and level 2/sub 1 for low smoke and smooth acceleration to keep traction under control. With levels 3-4-5-6 with the pump tap of course expect smoke and hard torque and acceleration. This truck is a fleet tow rig and they don’t run the pump tap because employees drive the truck and they don’t want it hotrodded but wanted a little more pull without the pump tap being installed. stock: level 1/sub 1: level 2/sub 1: Good setup for daily drivers and tow rigs. You can hit 1300-1350* on wide open runs on all levels so make sure you have a good set of gauges (not glow shi(f)t, there garbage, slow and your gonna melt a piston)... would work well with S03 users also. Levels 1-4 or if you use REVO settings (actual level is irrelevant then).

Hey guys, I'm looking for some input on your luck with TIPM's. Specifically if you have had your TIPM rebuilt? Or have you had sucess in pulling one from a Junkyard? I'm actually dealing with a bad TIPM in a Chrysler 200, however I've had no luck with a replacement from Dodge/Chrysler(national backorder). Nor does Rockauto/Pepboys/Autozone/ sell them. I've found websites online that list them as back ordered as well. Its been almost a week and I need to have this other car up and running, but I'm looking for input about rebuilding/or Junkyard ones and If you guys have and any luck with this issue. I'll be writing up an article about this as well afterwards if I do have luck with this as I'm sure someone else will have to deal with this. Unfortunately, I contacted some of the companies in my famous PCM/ECM re-builders article only to find out that they don't rebuild TIPM's.

Looking for transmission cooling soft line kit for my 1996 dodge ram Cummins 12v truck, has 4x4, 47re transmission. Hard lines keep rubbing and cracking. Need help please.

Well I have finally came up with a solution for the dreaded torque management that has plagued us 2nd gen owners for decades, and best of all its free. It all happened by accident actually. I opened up my trans due to some funny shifting issues and found every screen inside it was full of metal shavings. Which obviously meant that they got past the filter but more on this later. I cleaned all the solenoids and sensors of the metal and the little screens that protected them along with installing a new filter and fluid. Everything was good for about 2 weeks then all of a sudden after i left a drive thu i lost all forward gears. I messed around with it for a little while (like 4 hours) trying to figure out what happened. If I let the truck sit for a minute or 5 off i would get line pressure and could move the truck about 200 ft before losing all gears again. However when i would lose all forward gears and the truck was stationary i would only be able to rev the truck to 2000 rpm (basically felt as if it was in neutral) but if it was in park or neutral i could go balls to the wall 3700. So after quite a while a friend towed me home and i couldn't find anything on what my problem was. There were only about 5 forums were people had the exact same symptoms. One of them suggested it was a clogged filter and everything settled back into the pan after being off for a few minutes. So $6 later in a new filter and some new fluid i had laying around it was once again going better than the day i bought the truck. This is when i began thinking of the weird rev to 2k in drive but 3700 in N or P. I also noticed when trying to do a burnout or 4x4 launch in the past 2 years of owning the truck i could only build up to 2000 rpm before it started cutting fuel, then upon launch it would start bucking (I'm sure we've all been there) then pull like a mule. This led me to my idea, I crawled under the truck today and pulled off the connector to the neutral/reverse switch and found out which pin is for the neutral safety switch (its the top 2 pins). I then shorted the 2 wires together with a paperclip and went for a test drive. The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before. I went into an abandoned dirt parking lot, put it in 4x4, and began to mash the brake and accelerator. The truck very quickly got to about 2500 rpm and about 30-35 lbs of boost. At this moment i knew it had worked. I built boost again and launched the truck, I had full fuel off the line with no bucking whatsoever, next I did a burnout with the same result. The only problem i ended up having is after about 20-30 minutes the truck threw a p1899 code for the switch being shorted which defaulted the computer and turned TM back on. However if you put it on a toggle switch you would be able to turn off TM at any time, and shut it back off before the computer knows while retaining all your gauges vs other options out on the market. Also if the neutral switch is "On" you will not be able to use cruise control so a switch would be the best option. I still have some more testing to do but this fix has worked every time I have tried it so far. This was my experience with my own experiment on my truck, if you would like to attempt this you do so at your own risk. It fuels fast and it fuels hard. If you have any questions feel free to ask

I need help with tuning my quadzilla 4K for my truck. Truck has 188/220 cam,103 springs,7x13 injectors, pushrods and studs and t4 manifold but I can’t figure out tunes for my setup it pops at higher rpms and sometimes even shuts the truck off. I have a brand new fass 165 set to 20psi and 15 at wot. Any help will be appreciated.

Is it possible to have an oil cap with a vent for the valve cover? I am fixing to install a 12v tappet cover and want to vent the valve cover aswell, so ill have 3 vents. Is it possible to vent the valve cover without drilling and welding bungs and doing what i said and making or buying an oil cap with baffles and filter on it?

Hey guys, just reaching out before I start spending some money. I have a 2nd gen dodge 5speed 3.73 gears with mild build. I recently bought a 37’ toy hauler that weighs close to 9,000lbs empty. I live in Colorado and when I tow this thing is usually over some pretty serious passes. As summer is here I’m struggling keeping my engine temps under control. I do have a high flow water pump, new oem replacement radiator and 190* thermostat. While pulling up RIO with my RZR in the trailer I got a little out of control on my temps. Probably 225*. My EGTs were getting a little hot at about 1250. My truck was getting hotter sooner with my antifreeze/water ration about 70/30. I took some advice from my father who ran heavy duty diesels for 20plus years and am running 25/75. As he said it will still get hot but not as quick. He was right. Anyone done anything to their truck to keep the temps down that actually worked while pulling heavy? I’m guessimg my truck and trailer combo was close to 24,000lbs when loaded.

Good afternoon everybody i have 2 engines the first is a 1998.5 cummins 24vl w/o trasmission with harness the secound is a 2000 cummins 24vl with trasnsmission w/o harness both are on the ground im plannig to put in my 2003 ford f250 my question is 1: i can start the engine (2000) with the harness of the 1998.5? 2: i need the fuse box to start the engine? 3: the sensors need the connection to start the engine? Remember......i dont have a fuse box when i buy the guy say he need so i cant get i have some colors from the harness...in a video on youtube they say they can start the engine just with 6 cables from the harness to the possitive on the battery green black orange black brown white red black red white red green and this is the video Thanks in advance im from panama by the way so its really hard to find somebody who can deal with my engines

I've owned my Dodge for over 4 years now, and have upgraded the lift pump, which is the raptor 100 gph on the side of the block, edge ez, 4 inch exhaust, and I believe it has at least 60hp injectors that were installed by the previous owner. I am at 400 rwhp now, tested at the hunting for horse power up in cda. My question that I am asking, why is my fuel pressure dropping down 5psi at WOT? I have spent many hours trying to find information on this, and its hard to get a definite answer. the Diesel mechanic I take my truck to says its normal, but I know its not, especially since my truck will start to stutter if I let off the pedal after stomping into it for to long( by no means do I drive the truck aggressive, I drive it like an old man, like my old man lol) I want to upgrade my fuel lines to half inch from the tank to the lift pump, including fittings. but when I look online, I'm only finding the big line kit from the filter to the injection pump. Any advice would be much appreciated. I'm not looking to start a proper fuel psi forum, as I know its been beat to death. 15 psi at idle, 5 psi at WOT- doesn't seem normal. I'm on my second raptor 100gph -----this is my first post, let me know if I'm doing anything wrong.

Hey guys, this is my first post but I have read a lot on this forum and have found help several times here. My issue now seems to be something in the electrical system causing some weird torque converter symptoms. First off, I have a 1998.5 Dodge 2500 4x4 24 valve with 177,000 miles and a 47re that has been built with a BD Stage 3 kit along with a single disk billet converter that has roughly 22,000 miles on it. It has ran flawlessly up until about a week ago. My issue is very consistent. I can take off with normal throttle from a stop and the transmission will shift perfectly 1st through 4th gear and the torque converter will lock perfectly at around the 45 MPH mark (not sure of exact speed due to 35" tires and speedo not being calibrated), and from there I can accelerate to highway speeds anywhere from 50 - 65 miles an hour with no issue. My issue occurs the second that I let off the throttle and let it idle as if I were coming to a stop and braking. The torque converter will unlock as normal, but for instance if I am going 60 mph and let the throttle go idle for even a split second and then give it more throttle to continue driving, the torque converter never even thinks about locking back up, it will simply rev high in 4th gear and drive. If I do come to a stop (or slow enough to downshift into 3rd), I can resume and shift back into 4th and the torque converter will once again lock until I get off the throttle. Basically, the converter will not lock more than one instance per 4th gear shift. It has never done this before, as normal operation would be that the torque converter locks back up after resuming throttle. My truck has two brand new batteries less than a month old with new and cleaned terminals and I have verified that all plugs on the transmission are clean and firmly pressed into each socket and all grounds are properly connected. Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

So, I have been running my compound setup for 3 weeks now, and I am impressed on all levels. For 1500$, I have instant boost, 24 MPG, and even when I fuel it like a dragster, The highest EGT I can get is 1280*. Because of my awesome experience, I have decided to share the entire installation and give a few tips for anyone who wants to go this way. The kit I purchased is the Evilfab525 kit, here is the website link : http://www.evilfabperformance.com/shop To start this project I inventoried all of the pieces in the kit, verified the S366 T4 turbo was clean and operational, and then set out on disassembly. Problems encountered here - The factory downpipe / 5 bolt manifold had a bolt already broken off, and another one broke on me as well. Repair involved a drill press, tap and die kit, lots of lubricant, and patience. So moving on, the T3 HX35 uses 4 studs, two on manifold and two on turbine housing. Trash them! This kit requires inverting the exhaust manifold, so the HX35 will be 180* and will require restudding / drilling out threads as required. The instructions provided very good info on this, and the fabricator Riley can answer any questions quickly before you get into trouble. Also you will need to knock out the rear oil drain freeze plug, and chopsaw your HX35 drain pipe for the S366 Drain. Read the instructions on this part carefully! After you have your length of drain tube, here's a tip: you should have 2.5- 3.5 inches of straight pipe. take electrical tape and tape the end you intend to tap into the block, marking a depth of 1 - 1.25 inches. There is nothing to limit the depth, and you don't want to hammer the tube all the way into the oil pan. Also a 1" or 15/16" deep socket slides over the other end nicely and gives you a part to hammer on without damaging the tube. After getting your oil drain prepped, get the hacksaw out and cut off the exhaust pipe about 24 inches forward of the transmission cross member, this gives you room to mock everything up. I cut mine right where the 3.5" down pipe expanded to 4". Tip # 2: go buy 1 or 2, 4" exhaust clamps (if you already have a 4" system) and if you are running a magnaflow system that has a 3.5 - 4 inch downpipe, you will need about 16 inches of 4" pipe to splice to your exhaust, unless you plan a new exhaust at the same time. This is where I started mocking up the kit. Problem #1 the waste gate actuator was in the way. Remove the actuator and with great finesse and care, Grind off the mount from the compressor housing. Problem #2, The heater pipe has a mount which bolts to the exhaust manifold. This does not fit with the manifold inverted.Its also in the way of the hot pipe. You have to options: Delete the pipe and replace with rubber hose, or Cut the mounting tab off. I cut the tab off, because I was being cheap. Now its time to start assembly. I fabricated a bracket to hold the waste gate actuator from 16 gauge plate steel from home cheapo. I used a piece of thin cardboard to template the T3 Bolt pattern, and measured the distance from the flat surface of the actuator mount on the comp housing, to the gate arm. using that measurement, I utilized a Drill press, Sawzall, Bench Vice, and Ball peen hammer to make my bracket. For rigidity, I started by bending the plate 90* in half, and then started on it with the sawzall. After I got it shaped right, I used my little mig welder to put a bead in the corner for extra strength. a bolt works just fine too. you will have to notch your bracket to give clearance for the HX35 oil drain. I painted it with black header paint to look nice and put it off to the side.

Hi Guys, So Posting this on behalf of my good buddy, he spent wayyyyyyyy tooo much money figuring this problem out for me not to summarize and post something. -4th Gen 2010 Ram 2500 Bighorn Background - So While the truck was still under factory warranty, there was almost no issues or gremlins with the powertrain. After the warranty ran out, my buddy ordered an EGR, and DPF delete kit. Then he followed up with the Mini Max, and that's where the problem started. The issue - After the mini maxx, the truck ran all around great, but after a few months there was an intermittent stutter coming to a stop. What did not fix the truck - Replaced CP3, Injectors, headgasket (ARP Studs), Fan Clutch, Cummins ECU, Ram PCM, and an array of MaP, Crank, and cam sensors. The Final fix - It appears the factory ram fuel system cannot handle any aftermarket demand, so a FASS titanium system was the final resolution for this wallet draining frustration.

2001 I just got from dealer, auto btw, test drove it drove fine they had a new lift pump installed that day, well I made it home and the next day I took it to work , well it sits at the yard till I get off so I get there and I go to ride a round and take my buddy home, well leaving DAIRY QUEEN, to go to CHEVRON to get some fuel since gauge doesn't work , DEALER sent new one btw will get tomorrow aswell as a TIMBOS tps but I paid next day and kinda got screwed if you order wrong, anyway, going from dq to chevron the truck dies as I am turning to a pump, ok drop in N then stop then P then try to start it fires up, ok well I add 25$ , eventually filling tank up later, but as I leave and I'm going about 3 /4 of a mile away from gas station it does it again, JUST DIES!, well not sure the codes at that time it was throwing , ive done several things, as take back the lift pump just installed and get new one, seeing it wont come on at times but Ive read on why, and when I uninstalled chip It through some VP CODES that mean death but I rehooked and reset and they all went away and it still has the start and sometimes if you do apps reset you get 30 minutes but if truck has been ran you may make to DRIVE out of REVERSE, and JUST DIE!, ok well I said **** it may be TPS Or VP who knows I'm a 12 VALVER, well I tested TPS ITS GETTING .337 at idle into #3 pin, and it goes up and down smoothly!, well after testing TPS/ APPS the truck would run good and stuff but then eventually just shutoff, and actually now it sometimes just surges and then lets it idle and it runes fine then will die or surge no idea I try not to drive it! but before it would JUST DIE, and I'm not sure if the ASD Has anything but sometimes if P0122 comes up and I crank 1388 ASD code comes, up! idk PLEASE Help should I just buy a VP I have the TIMBOS coming tomorrow, but as of today I took TPS off , looks kinda new or been tampered it broke loose easily and wasn't very dirty! well now it surges a lot more in 2nd , BUT not original issue, Original issue is the truck just DIED didn't idle , so not TPS ? and Now it just surges sometimes, PLEASE HELP, BTW I also tested a differen plug I believe ground and pin next to it ? well it read 4.670 volts and slowly dropped ? anything there ? just don't know why truck just dies!

I was thinking of getting a new turbo to run on my truck. Has anyone ran one the Bladerunners. here is the website link for the turbo I was looking at. http://www.xtremediesel.com/afebladerunnerturbocharger46-60061.aspx

Hey guys, I have a 2004 3500 SLT single rear axle 5.9. Had an issue come up within the last week. Had my injectors and tubes and TPS sensor replaced about 6 months ago because of a starting issue. At wide open throttle 2500 RPM sounds like the wastegate dumps open and I lose all power but if you keep it floored you can see the RPMs climbing slowly. As soon as you let off the pedal and hit it softly you gain power again but right at 2500 RPMs it drops off again. Only code stored is a fan code p0483. Haven't had a chance to test the fan but it seems to be working.. I tried disconnecting the fan and driving it but it does the same thing at 2500 RPMs. Any help would be great. Thank you.

Hey everyone, New member here but long time reader, I recently bought another dually (lucky number 3) to replace my 2000 24v. Sorry in advance for the long post, just want to give all info Amazing truck and very well built, however.... i bought it and the abs module was unplugged, never really considered this a problem ( not a fan of abs) but im sure you all know that the speedodoesnt work without it and is a requirement for certification in Ontario. So i plugg the moduleback in, everything is fine...until it isnt, the truck began to stutter at various rpm (changed ECT Sensor) once i did that the "Stutter" was only in 6th gear at 2100rpm (had a comp box and a CAT 95gph LP at the time) Unplug the Module and everything is right as rain and has excellent power. Decided to switch over to a fass (in case of contamination) and also switched to the Juice w/Attitude ( just a personal preference... i love the dummy settings because im a dummy) Changed the MAP at this point because i had no electronic reading for boost. Plugged back in at this point and test drove it for about 5 minutes before the issue came back. I am stumped on this one gentlemen, I sure hope someone has encountered this issue before. Thank you in advanced. Chad Pressure @ VP >16psi....Boost Max 47psi...EGT never exceed 1200F* 2002 Dodge Ram 3500 Sport (Daily/Plow Truck) -Edge Juice w/attitude (unlocked plus EGT on manifold) -BD Super B Special -BD SS Manifold -BD Intake Horn -Hamilton 100lb Valve Spring -Hamilton Pushrods -ARP 625 Headstuds -Southbend 3250 Clutch -Hewitt Mechanical Gauges (Fuel,EGT{After turbo},Fuel Pressure) -Fass 150 gph LP -Colt Cam (Big Stick) Stage 3 -VP44 (100+ aftermarket)

DODGE 2012 HO CUMMINS Hello everyone. It appears the forums are not as busy as they once were. I was hoping to create this forum for owners of the 2012 Dodge 6.7 HO. I believe this will be a good place for owners of this rig to share tips, tricks, service manual links or anything else related to this year specifically. 2012 HO, 4x4 4:10 gears, auto.