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Found 22 results

  1. Having a dead pedal issue on my 2002 24v auto. codes are p0122 p0236 p1475. problem is very intermittent. New apps sensor after confirming all apps power grounds and signals were good. when i have a pedal map and apps reading are were they should be, when problem is occurring map voltage is maxed out and apps signal is all over the place. Initially thought short between apps wiring and map wiring, could not find such short and did not notice change during wiggle test of harness nor could i measure continuity between apps and map circuit. Starting to think bad ecm, the problem did start after bleeding my low pressure fuel system getting diesel all over driver side of engine. Fuel pressure is good. If anyone could help that would be great.
  2. Alright so story is, was driving the truck one day stopped and shut it off came back out and turned it on absolutely no throttle sense whatsoever, figured it was a bad ebay tps so through the old one in that just mad the truck idle high, three the new one on worked great until a few days later it did the exact same thing as the other one so I decide to go to thouroughbred diesel to get a reputable apps and put it in and still absolutely no throttle response whatsoever as if the apps was completley disconnected, throws the following engine codes P1693 P0123 P0122 P0121 P0230 any ideas or help would be appreciated. Just goes back to idle.
  3. I recently had Dead pedal problems. Also Wait to Start (wts) light is not coming on. Now I have no lift pump noise before starting truck. Or after bumping the starter. I changed the APPS and that fixed the dead pedal only. Now I tried hooking up programmer to check codes and the programmer won't load up with key on. After 20 seconds or so the odometer says NO BUS. So I'm 95% sure the ECM is shot. I bought a used ECM. Auto trans, same year. I have called 6 dealers, NOBODY has DRBIII software anymore to reprogram it to my vin. The software has all been updated to some new carp. So. Will my truck run and drive if I just swap ECM's? I've read conflicting stories. A lot of them say Yes just swap it.
  4. First time posting, I've used your advice on many previous issues reading different forums and such. Hopefully you can shoot a clear answer for me here cause I'm stuck. 1999 Dodge Cummins, I've had periodic dead pedal for the last 2 years. Would drop to an idle at highway speed and no throttle response. Shut truck off, turn back on, problem went away. Now the truck is stuck at a slightly high idle at 1,100 RPM. No Throttle response at all. I just replaced APPS with Napa replacement. No different. -Vp44 replaced 3 years ago Some other history: -one day no gauges worked and got (No Bus) on odometer. Next day "problem fixed itself" -A month ago the Wait to Start light would not come on before start up. But once running voltage would draw like grid heater was working while running. A week later "problem fixed itself". Wait to Start works fine. So after this extremely long post (sorry) are these symptoms of a faulty ECM??
  5. Hi I'm new to the site but have learned so much and hoping you guys can help me out. I've been getting a dead pedal at 53-55lbs of boost, things I've done aside from power mods are auto to nv5600 and 2001 fuel filter with twist off cap. Power mods are on my profile. I've replaced apps, map sensor, made sure the quadzilla is good, have good fuel preassure, and great power till that specific boost. Any ideas would help. Thanks.
  6. APPS Sensor Replacement Procedure Description The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly is located at the top-left-front of the engine (Fig. 4). A plastic cover is used to cover the assembly. The actual sensor is located behind its mounting bracket (Fig. 5). Operation The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Engine Control Module (ECM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. In previous model years, this part was known as the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Diesel engines used in previous model years used a mechanical cable between the accelerator pedal and the TPS lever. Linkage and bellcranks between the TPS cable lever and the fuel injection pump were also used. Although the cable has been retained with the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor), the linkage and bellcrank between the cable lever and the fuel injection pump are no longer used. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is calibrated and permanently positioned to its mounting bracket. Removal The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. TheAccelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is calibrated to its mounting bracket. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly is located at the left front of the engine below plastic cable/lever/linkage cover (Fig. 6). Front with cover removed Rear of APPS sensor Disconnect both negative battery cables at both batteries. Remove cable cover. Cable cover is attached with 2 Phillips screws, 2 plastic retention clips, and 2 push tabs. Remove 2 Phillips screws and carefully pry out 2 retention clips. After clip removal, push rearward on front tab, and upward on the lower tab for cover removal. Using finger pressure only, disconnect end of speed control servo cable from throttle lever pin by pulling forward on connector while holding lever rearward.DO NOT try to pull the connector off perpendicular to lever pin. The connector will be broken. Using two small screwdrivers, pry throttle cable connector socket from throttle lever ball. Be very careful not to bend throttle lever arm. Disconnect transmission control cable at lever arm (if equipped). Refer to 21, Transmission. Squeeze pinch tabs on speed control cable and pull cable rearward to remove from cable mounting bracket. Squeeze pinch tabs on the throttle cable and pull cable rearward to remove from cable mounting bracket. If equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to 21, Transmission for transmission control cable removal procedures. Disconnect wiring harness clips at the bottom of the bracket. Remove 6 mounting bolts and partially remove Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly from the engine. After the assembly is partially removed, disconnect the electrical connector from the bottom of the sensor by pushing on connector tab. Remove Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly from the engine. Installation The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) is calibrated to its mounting bracket. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly is located at the left front of the engine below plastic cable/lever/linkage cover (Fig. 6). Snap electrical connector into the bottom of the sensor. Position Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly to the engine and install 6 bolts. Tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque. Connect wiring harness clip (Fig. 8) at the bottom of the bracket. If equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to Group 21, Transmission for transmission control cable installation procedures. Install speed control cable into the mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Fig. 7) have secured cable. Install throttle cable into the mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Fig. 7) have secured cable. Connect throttle cable at the lever (snaps on). Connect speed control cable to the lever by pushing cable connector rearward onto lever pin while holding lever forward. Install cable cover. Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries. ECM & APPS Calibration WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, APPS disconnected, APPS replaced the APPS calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the APPS idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes and other issues must occur. Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. Turn the key to ON position. Without starting the engine, slowly press throttle pedal to the floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set.
  7. I have a 99 2500 4x4 that has had a dead pedal and high idle issue, which seems to get worse when the engine is hot. No codes are presented and the only way to get the truck running again is too shut it off and remove the 20 amp engine control fuse from the Electrical Control Center behind the drivers side battery. When it begins doing it it may happen five or six times within an eight or nine mile drive. Anyone have similar problem or ideas for a resolution. Thanks very much
  8. Ok guys I've posted on Cummins forum but not much help. My vp went bad about 10 months ago I replaced it truck ran good. 2 moths later dead pedal started I bumped my fuel pressure up on airdog165 local shop had it way low. Truck ran good for 6 months. Dead pedal came back also had a low voltage to apps code changed apps with a timbo and adjusted it per instructions. No more codexpensive but I still have the dead pedal. Spoke with local shop and changed ecm. Still have the dead pedal!! For giggles I changed my fairly new filters and added 2 grounds along with changing terminals made it 2 and 1/2 months and dead pedal is back. Spoke with a few people including calling blue chips tech line and they think psg is bad on pump. My pump is under warranty so I pull it and warranty it out. Driving home tonight and the POS is still dead pedaling. I check alternator which is under a year old a/c voltage is .028 at worst. Some one please help or I'm trading this thing in and getting a powerstroke! Thanks in advance
  9. hey, i am getting the p0122-(pedal position sensor voltage too low) trouble code with check engine light on my 24 valve cummins. i did the diagnostic procedures listed on this website for that trouble code, on steps 4 and 5 of the listed procedures i got an "O.L" reading on my DVOM which means "open line" i guess? can any one tell me what this means or what i need to do to fix my dead pedal issue (always at beginning of the gear if it happens) ? im pretty new to this cummins and this website. any responses would great! thanks. STEPS 4 and 5 4. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short to ground in Light Blue/Black wire. 5. Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/White wire.
  10. Well, joined the forum back in Nov... had been working on plotting out our tune up/ preventative & maintenance plans and before we got anywhere within driving the truck an additional 500 miles at most we have MAJOR ISSUES... needless to say we have have the truck parked in the driveway since we put new tires on it at the end of November, we have had to start it a few times to move it for snow removal and driveway access issues... So here goes the saga of problems... this fall we noticed that we were having issues with the truck shifting around 45 mph... after much reading on this forum, I do believe that it probably is the same torque lock/ converter issue that many have been having. So, I had been calling around to different auto part stores to research alternators as a place to start... My husband also informed me that I was not the only one who had replaced the batteries in the truck in the last year or so (It would have been nice if he would have told me that a little sooner, since I am the more mechanical of us)... We had also been fighting with the 4wd for about a year... The mechanic that we were using supposedly replaced some of the parts but I do not know which ones bc he did not record it in the system and we had issues with the other work that he said he had done at the time but upon closer inspection did not do. My brother and I traced all the vacuum lines and made sure none of them were dirty/clogged/ disconnected etc.. one or two of them were dislodged/ loose so we cleaned them made sure they weren't clogged and reattached them . We also checked the diaphragm and it seemed to move in/ out easily as well... but we did not have time to get any further in diagnosing, before many more issues started to arise... My husband had a training seminar in Denver and we knew we needed new tires so we were able to combine the trip, I didn't have time before he left to change the oil so he insisted on going to a grease monkey as well while he was down there... then literally as my husband was driving home from Denver which is about an 1 hr 30 min drive up a mountain pass; a slue of other issues started... Unfortunately I wasn't in the truck at the time and my husband is not the best at paying attention to subtle vehicle noise/ performance differences. TO all the guys out there, I love my husband very much and in no way am I trying to "dis" him, we have just been together long enough that we both recognize each others strengths and weaknesses... so back to the drive back home per my husband's account; he called me and says "Sarah I think something is wrong with the truck, if I accelerate past about 60 the vehicle will not shift, just revs highier and higher and I have never seen the rpm gauge go so high..." My reaction was, well SLOW DOWN, if it;'s not shifting it's not going to just because u give it more fuel and rev the engine. Secondly, I asked him to check the temp gauge (unfortunately, we have not installed additional gauges that I had already ordered.. so we still just have stock) and make sure that he didn't need to pull over... he responded with well I am not sure what it's normally at but it doesn't seem unusually high. Well, how about the other gears? It was sluggish to get started, even when it was warmed up... So, when he got home we parked the truck and the next day I took it out to drive it to see if I could get a better feel for what was going on. First off, the truck wouldn't start... it had been cold that night probably around -10, but the truck block heater was plugged in and when I went to drive it the temp had already warmed up to around 30... when it gets that cold I have found that the truck will usually start easier if I turn the key and wait for the "wait to start" light to turn off two or three times before actually cranking the engine. However, even with this technique (which I realize is a red flag in itself) the truck would click click click try to turn over and just wouldn't go... so I got out the trust battery charger and usually if I just put it on high for less than 5 mins the truck will start right away... no such luck... so I left the charger on for about 30 mins before it would start (when it did there was quite a bit of smoke, although I don;t remember if it was black or white). Once started, the truck idle was very slow (even more than usual) so instead of going inside, I sat in the cab and rev'ed the engine for the concern of gumming etc. It took about 5 mins before I felt comfortable to let the truck sit and run while I wasn't watching it... I let it run for about 10-15 mins before I got in for the test drive. I immediately noticed that when backing up that the truck was acting very sluggish...we live right on main st in our town which is actually a HWY, so we have quite a bit of traffic and pulling out you have to be careful and quick... Which is why I panicked when I shifted into D, hit the accelerator and the truck acted like I merely let off the brake and barely pressed the accelerator, when in reality I nearly floored it. luckily we have a second lane & parking shoulder that starts at our driveway and goes through town, so I was able to creep into it... about 2 blocks of creeping with medium pressure on the accelerator the truck seemed to kick into gear and started to accelerate more normally between about 20-55mph then I did notice that once I reached 60mph I could understand what my husband was experiencing the day prior. After driving just to the next lil town which is 1.5 miles away and back I parked the truck... called our friend that is a mechanic and just started working at the garage literally across the street from our house and started reading... Our mechanic friend said he would help us out after work at the garage (so awesome to have access to the lifts & tools)... but before we could look at the truck our other vehicle decided to have a few issues that we needed to address first (so we would have a vehicle to use), we were able to plug in the code reader and at first no codes were coming up... then we had one or two codes pop up but when he looked them up there were a slue of possibilities and I lost my notebook where I wrote them down, ugg... i blame the chaos on the holidays... We decided that a good place to start would be to change the trans solenoids, replace trans filter w/ seal kit, flush trans and new fluid. Which we were planning on doing tomorrow... in preparation for finally tackling this truck I have been reading, researching and pricing a plan of action this week. Yesterday I did order a TIMBO apps, since it was something that I was thinking about anyway... but I am just getting a little overwhelmed with what parts to address especially with the current issues that I think are somewhat inner related and I fear we will have more issues as I have read through the forum bc we have had above average luck with not needing many of the issues that people have had with this truck at much lower mileages we are at about 203k... So, I need some advice... Gauges- I want basic mechanical gauges in a pillar (EGT, fuel pressure w/ low pressure light, trans temp)... I tried to order some in NOV but had problems finding a matching set, that was reasonably priced but had good reviews (quality). It shouldn't be that difficult... so if anyone has bought them recently and has a source suggestion, please let me know! AirDog II- What do I need to order in addition to the Airdog II to install on truck? Our truck specs are on signature.. Fuel Pump- Raptor: Which model? the factory replacement (FRRP)? RP-100 or RP-150? From what I have been reading and knowing that we use the truck to tow our tool trailer & our flat bed trailer, as well as hauling all sorts of other stuff up and down mountain dirt roads, I was thinking that it would be a better idea to install the RP-100 and take the time to mount it rather than just doing the factory replacement. Any Thoughts? Automatic Transmission: What do you recommend to do while we are in there replacing the solenoids, flushing, replacing filter & kit, new fluid... adjusting bands... WHAT ELSE CAN I DO TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF THE TRANS/ fix issues? Or should I be considering a total rebuild or new one? (I am hoping that I can prolong the current one so I can budget some other stuff first)- If we do replace, I think we may convert to a manual trans set up.... Sorry this is SUCH A NOVEL, I just thought I would give as much detail as possible since I am out of my comfort zone... THANK you in advance for any help/ suggestions you can provide! At this point we need 2wd to work before 4wd!!
  11. Hello everyone. Iam in the middle of driving from Idaho to North Dakota and am having issues in Glendive, MT. I turned off o!f the interstate and slowed to ~15 mph before merging on to a different highway. My truck accelerated fine and at ~45 mph a check engine light came on and I lost all of my accelerator function. I am 770+ miles into the trip and everything else has been fine until now. It is about 10 degrees out so i am afraid to shut off and attempt a restart/check codes via key trick in fear of freezing to a pop sickle overnight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!P.s. I am running anti-gel in the fuel so plugged filter shouldn't be an issue and I do not have a pressure gauge to check fuel psi. Engine is idling smoothly, temp is good, oil pressure is good and my fuel filter is 2 months old.
  12. Help! I am getting a dead pedal every 20 minutes or so during driving on a 2002 Cummins only when the outside temps are above 70 degrees and the truck is really hot. When the outside temp is below 70 degrees the truck runs fine. I've reset the APPS just like I've read on this forum and I've cleaned the sensors. I am not getting in check engine lights at all. Thanks in advance for any help!
  13. Hello all, I am new to this site and wanted to kick something around maybe get some feedback and troubleshooting help. When i would turn on the truck, i would usually let it idle for awhile. I would put it in “D”, push on the gas, the truck would start to travel, than it will suddenly get the case of the "dead pedal" and then kick into gear. This started in a sporadic fashion. It then led to a daily ritual to get to work having to rev-up the engine in order for the truck to move. I have briefly explained below how I got to this point. The beginning of this story is as follows: I initially replaced the fuel lift pump when I first got the signs of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe and the engine stalling out with my check gages notification on the dash (5 years ago). I replaced the lift pump, the problem went away for about 2 years (no codes). The white smoke eventually came back, so I replaced the lift pump again and the white smoke went away again and lasted for 2 years (no codes). I replaced it with a third and changed out the filter (1 year)(no codes). I finally got the case of the dead pedal and replaced my VP44 at 189,000 miles (figured it was time since I did not get any codes and read bluechip diesels overview). I installed the VP44 and finally got a companion code P1693 when i tried to start it up. I finally pulled the codes from the PCM and got the P0122 low voltage APPS code. I replaced the original APPS with a TIMBO and I now I have intermittent dead pedal. I also have the loss of power like if I am towing something at take-off. I punch the gas violently than the truck finally starts to sputter and then go away and begin to function properly and picks up speed. On the interstate, the truck runs fine once I start traveling at a constant speed. This behavior only occurs initially at rest or when I slow down and then punch the gas. I have questions that may or may not relate to my problems, which are as follows: [*]When i replaced the VP44, did i somehow take it off its timing? [*]Does this mean my ECM is the culprit and not the VP44? [*]Can i rule out the transmission due to not pulling any load? [*]Did i purchase a bad OEM VP44? When I installed the TIMBO Apps, I smelled burnt plastic that eventually went away. I am attributing it to that new plastic smell. I also noticed that when I hooked up the voltmeter, I got a reading of .510. I followed the instructions and when I turned back to ½ a turn as instructed, I ended up at .510 again, is this right? (the original apps has .521 VDC) Do I need to set it at .521, .498, or leave it at .510? I have recently replaced one of the batteries (drivers side), but still have the original battery on passenger side. Can it be related to the problem that I have? Do I need to replace that battery as well? Any and all comments are welcome. I thank you for your feedback in advance.
  14. Hey ya'll,i am back with an update.:banghead: So after a year of having no symptoms since 1/28/11, i am having symptoms again. Not really sure what is going on. I have not gone thru any of the routine troubleshooting steps just yet. I am back for some more schooling!!!! So now the situation is that i am having dead pedal above 70 MPH. I can punch the gas on the highway, tranny goes thru its automatic gear shifts, than if i try to accelerate above 70, nothing. --- Update to the previous post... please read other thread!
  15. My 99 3500 lost boost coming home the other day. No lights came on and after about 20 minutes it came back to life and ran great the rest of the way home. Now when I start it up and take off, it has no boost in the beginnning but will gradually build up to around 10-11lbs as the truck warms up. From there it's anybody's guess as to how it will act. Going from nothing to full power again. It starts great and has yet to throw a light. I just took it to our local Napa and had them plug it in to pull the codes and it showed nothing at all. Not even in the "Stored" side. I did try the APPS reset and that seemed to make no difference. It's showing 10-11lbs fuel pressure at idle and will pull down to around 6-7 at WOT pulling 6K. My question is: why are there no codes thrown? What should my next move be? Could weak fuel pump cause this type of problem? Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  16. About 2 weeks ago I had the apps replace with a timbo sensor (previuosly I had made adjustment to my original apps 4 months ago) because it was showing trouble when shifting betwen 2nd a nd 3rd gear and also prensented the dead pedal symtom while i was driving on the freeway 65mph and when i release the pedal power was back. Any way after i replace the timbo sensor i drive over 1200 w/out any issue at all. suddenly today i was driving on the freeway 65 mhp and felt the loss of power, but my tachometer remain still @1900 rpms, so step on the gas and got power back release it to maintain 65 mph and symptom appear again then went gone. Also I notice trany again is having hard time to decide 2nd or 3rd gear operation. I'm wondering if alternator might have something to do with it, I have read the forum thread that a like from the diodes circuit might drive other systems nuts.
  17. Just bought my truck in May, 2002 3500 quad cab, it's the first diesel I've owned, so I'm on a definite learning curve here. Truck runs great, starts right up every time, pulls the 27.5 ft 5th wheel no problem. But here lately in the afternoon when I get off work and crank her up to go home, she'll idle out of the parking lot and when I get to the street and hit the throttle...... nothing happens and she just slowly creeps into the roadway. This will last for a couple of minutes and then all the sudden she'll take off and run great all the way home. I read some earlier posts on how to read the codes and so I read them this evening, here is what I got: P0500, P0460, P1693, Pdone, P0216, P1693, Pdone. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,JBK
  18. I went camping this weekend and most of the 5 hour drive was fine. About halfway there at about 65 mph it felt like I let my foot of the pedal. It didn't die but I had to push in the clutch and rev it a few times before it came back. It happened several more times on the trip. On the way home I set my programmer back to stock and it didn't seem to do it as much (coincidence ?). Could it be the TPS or whatever its called on a dodge? Any input would be great.
  19. I own a 2002 ram 2500 6 speed with the HO cummins, 145k, recently i was pulling my equipment trailer and upon taking off from a stop sign had what felt to be a dead pedal/poor throttle response, taking 2x-3x as long to get up to around 2000rpm than it normally would. Slight bucking would occur but more of the issue is the slow throttle response. No matter where the pedal position is, there is no change in throttle response, its just a matter of slowly building rpms. Even though the throttle response is slow, the truck will get up to 3500rpm. I did have a garage do a diagnostic on it and they claimed fuel pressure from the lift pump was sufficient. There is no excess exhaust smoke. The truck starts and idles well. Codes thrown are the following: P PCU 0122, 1693 P ECU 0236, 0122, 1693. I have already installed a new fuel filter. Resistance and voltage pertaining to the apps sensor were taken and were found to be outside the specified range so as to determine that the apps sensor was no good. Installed new apps sensor and problem still exists. Looking for any input. Many have told me that theyre leaning to a VP44 but arent exactly sure. Thanks guys. As this is my first post, i hope that i have been thorough enough with details, let me know if i have missed any. chris
  20. 2001 Dodge 3500, 6 speed manual transmission.... hit with the dreaded "dead pedal" yesterday but after restarting the truck, it started working again which was great so I could get back home, to work today & the truck in the shop. Diagnostics on it can't find a computer code to determine the accurate diagnosis. So now what do I do, replace the APPS now or what and see if something else shows up? I often have a trailer hooked up with horses so really hate to get stranded out some where. It's the holiday week and I got a buddy that can put one in for me if I get one ordered today so whatcha' think? :confused: Help a gal out, won't ya?
  21. Buddy of mine has a 1999 2500 4x4 (I assume 1999 on the plate on the door says mfg date is 7/99).He was driving his truck working just fine, then it died suddenly at 70, now it will start runs real ruff, barley idles, and there is no response from the throttle (aka dead pedal).The check engine light is on, however the ignition key on/off 3 times does not display codes via the odometer, it does on my 2002 2500.My question does the 1999 display trouble codes via the odometer (digging on the internet some say it should some say it will not)?2nd any ideas / hints might be wrong with the truck ?I know codes are needed otherwise just chasing our tails but thought someone might have some initial thoughts. Truck is not drivable so going to say autozone to pull codes is out. Going to try and pick up a inexpensive code reader.Thanks in advance, Tony
  22. My truck (2000 2500 automatic w/103K) has a bad case of dead pedal.I went by Autozone and had them read the codes and the only one was overboost.I cleared it and none have returned.It also has a fairly new fass ddrp lift pump on it.Once in a while it wil take off like normal for 2 or 3 presses of the accelerator; then just return to the same old dead pedal.Can the APPS be checked with a digital volt meter?Any other ideas? probably VP44?thanks in advance.joek
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