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Found 5 results

  1. notlimah

    Drawstraw Install

    Just putting an article together to document my experience with installing my Drawstraw 5 with a retrofitted in tank lift pump already installed. I want to emphasis that I am by no means an expert in this area, and a lot of what I have written is based on direct phone conversations with Eric @Vulcan. He's a great help and I couldn't of completed this install without his guidance. So to start you are going to have to drop your tank. Now, having more then one person will certainly help, but it's possible to do with by yourself, as I did. It's a fairly straight forward process. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, disconnect all your fuel lines, the electrical plug from the top of the fuel module and your filler and vent tubes. The fuel lines are a bit tough to get undone. They need to be pinched both on the top and bottom so some skinny needle nose pliers would help here. There's two bolts hold your tank straps down and you'll need a deep socket (15mm) and a good sized extension to get to the forward most tank strap bolt. I ran straps I use to hold the dirt bike down in the truck bed around the tank and a frame rail to help hold it up while I was still under it, and then lowered it down. You may need to loosen the bolts for the carrier bearing bracket in order to get the forward most tank strap off. From there I drug it into my garage to keep it in a cleaner environment. Plus I like to take my time on things so leaving it out in the driveway wasn't a real option. Use a 2x4 or equivalent to gently loosen the fuel module. Once that's completely loosened you can remove your fuel module. BE EXTRA CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING TO NOT DAMAGE YOUR FLOAT. Once removed you'll have this. Keep in mind this is with the in tank pump that was installed by the dealership so yours could be laid out slightly different. From here you're going to start the modification process. I started by removing the wiring from the harness at the top of the fuel module, and the connectors at the bottom. Next you clip the OEM hose down where the yellow plastic forms an 'H' shape. You should end up with a piece that looks like this. Now you should be able to separate the bottom bucket portion from the top to make working on it a little easier. I didn't take any pics of this, but it's a fairly straight forward process, just be careful not to force things to much since this plastic can be brittle. Now you'll have to decide how you are going to modify the top of your fuel module. If you are just going to be installing the drawstraw 5, then this process is a little more straight forward an easier. If that is the case then your best bet it to just shave out the section that the black rubber cap is in. This will leave you with a hole that you can just expand out to the appropriate size and be done from there. In my case, I was adding the 1/2in drawstraw as well as a 1/2in return line so I needed to make a little more room. Make sure you use a step drill for this to avoid cracking the brittle plastic. ***A couple things I didn't mention and should be considered. Don't cut into that lip that circles the outside of the top of the fuel module. Make sure that your two fittings are far enough apart to fit the 15/16ths bolts that need to go under to hold your fittings down. As you can see, I miss calculated my drill center for the left hole and caught an extra bulge. The extra bulge is where you would drill your SINGLE hole if it were just the drawstraw. Well since I did that I added some JB weld for plastic. I put a piece of duct tape underneath and rolled another piece to keep the shape as close as possible to fill the hole. Once it dried it came out pretty good. Just use some fine grit sand paper to get it to fit nicely. This also applies to all the other modification around the top. I had already done some fitting checks to make sure everything would work out. This is what it would look like from the top. So all the fittings look good with the holes where they are. From here the next hurdle is the bolts and washers underneath. You will more then likely need to grind down the washers to make them fit underneath. I just used a sharpie to mark where the two washers overlapped and ground them down on a bench grinder. Mine came out like this. From here you can install your bolts that secure the fittings down. You can stick a screwdriver down the top of the fittings to help counteract you tightening down the bolt from underneath. That works much better then using vise grips! Next you want to move on to the bottom of the fuel module. You will need to remove the stock in tank lift pump which is secured by the black plastic tab that was shown in previous pics. It has 3 pinch points so the way that worked for me was to get 3 small screwdrivers, shove 2 in to completely break the pump free of those tabs, hold onto those 2 and insert the 3rd screw driver in and use that one to pry it out. It sounds so much easier, even typing this out, unfortunately it wasn't as easy for me. Big thanks to Eric again for walking me through this one. The bottom of my fuel module was fairly dirty so I sprayed it out with a hose and then took the air hose too it and let it dry overnight. Be careful not to damage or remove the small reddish plug that you'll find in the bottom. Mine could move around a bit, but I would've have to try and remove it. You should end up with this piece once everything's cleaned up. This will not go back into the fuel module. ************************************* You should also pop off the screen ^^^ on the very bottom of the bucket to make sure it's not clogged. ***Make sure you reinstall this piece. Now you should drill a 1/2in hole 2-3in from the bottom of the bucket. It doesn't really matter where you put it, but Vulcan's instructions give you an area to do it so I copied that as best I could. Now re-install the top and bottom portions of the fuel module. Your end result should look similar. The red fitting is attached to my drawstraw 5 which is fitted into where the old lift pump was. The silver fitting is my new return line. From here you can snip the larger of the 4 wires on the connector as they no longer has a spot to be plugged in. They're the black and yellow wires. LEAVE THE BLUE WIRES ALONE. I also decided to plug the OEM supply hose since it would no longer be needed. This is what my final product looked like. Make sure your wiring harness is plugged in!! This is the way I came up with a way to plug the old supply line so nothing can sneak down in there and get dirt in your tank. I found a rubber screw cap and filled it with jb weld and slid it over the return line like this. Once that's done you should be good to put your module back in the tank and put the tank back in the truck! An extra note here, if you had to loosen the carrier bearing bracket bolts, you might want to grind down the forward most tank strap to help avoid that if you ever need to drop the tank again. This is how mine turned out. I probably still could've ground down the sides a little more because I still needed to use a small pry-bar to get the holes lined up but it worked for me. Hope this helps, if you have questions feel free to ask and I'll do my best to help out.
  2. My truck ultimately runs great. It has good power. I recently replaced a crankshaft position sensor and noticed the plug will need to be replaced also. However replacing the sensor only, the check engine light has not illuminated again.However recently I have started to get a miss at idle after coming to a stop. Very slight, but noticeable. You can feel it in the truck. Not similar to the hard miss the crank shaft position sensor caused. The weird thing is my AirDog 150 has also started dropping pressure pretty bad. When new it was putting out 17psi nearly constantly, about a year later it was at 15psi. Then it kept dropping, much quicker after that. Now it is at 11-12psi idle. Though it still holds over 10psi WOT. I do have the typical draw straw issues at 1/4 tank.I purchased a new filter tonight (NAPA) and plan to install it tomorrow. If the pressure does not increase a significant amount I will add some washers to increase the pressure like I have seen done on here.It seems as though the AirDog is drawing air more often than it used to. At a 1/2 tank I can draw air. I did replace the sending unit recently so I am fairly sure it is not that. Besides I can run the truck to nearly empty and as long as I don't make a quick stop it is fine.You can hear the difference in the pump noise when it draws air. It is fairly significant. I am planning on installing a draw straw in the basket to remedy the 1/4 tank issue.It is just odd to me that this miss only occurs at stop lights regardless of the tank level. Once it has idled for a bit at the light it clears out. It never happens when the engine is cold it seems. Only when warmed up and after a stop. No elevated smoke levels at all.The truck is slightly harder to start in the cold lately. I plan to replace the battery cables and probably start looking at replacement batteries...these Walmart batteries didn't last nearly as long as the Duralast I had before. The truck also on occasion cranks for a long time when parked facing down hill.Any ideas?
  3. so i just reveiced my fuel line and fittings from vulcan performance. I upgraded the draw straw as i figured i might as well since the tank will be out, and the connections on the old one are porbably rusty.well long story short, i got to talking to one of my friends who has 2 cummins trucks (a 24v and a 12v) and he told me that his personal experience WITH the draw straw in both his trucks he complains of loosing fuel pressure when taking off and when stopping with about 1/4 tank.NOW my question is, vulcan performance included instructions with my draw straw kit (yes i read instructions:lol:)they show pictures of drilling holes in 2 DIFFERENT kinds of fuel modules. im guessing this is for 24 valve guys and 12 valve guys? and i understand the object of the holes is to help with the return flow, could that have been my friends problem????i just dont want to install something and have a problem with it........NOT a fan of doing work twice
  4. Quick question - for those who followed my mini-saga of my truck not starting this weekend. My common sense tells me it was the extreme cold here in Flagstaff that caused my truck to die on the road requiring a full system bleed to get her going again. But, I keep reading about the 1/4 tank issue and want to rule out the possibility that it died from fuel starvation. When the truck died on Friday morning, it had just over a 1/4 tank according to gauge, and my SGII told me I still had 109 miles left before empty (the SGII has been very accurate, and I have had problems with fuel level gauge past couple weeks). My question is what exactly is the 1/4 tank issue, and in spite of the cold temps, is it possible that the truck 'suffered' from starvation and not the extreme cold (0 F)? I'm glad I got her running again, but I could never really ascertain if my fuel was gelled or not, as by the time I got her in my garage, and got the filter off and drained, it didn't appear gelled. I did replace the filter as it looked a little strange, but I'm not entirely convinced it was the cold. Last night I filled her up and it took 15 gallons (added to the 10 I put in during my ordeal) that would leave 9 gallons left in it when it died Friday. Is 9 gallons of fuel sufficient to cause the 1/4 tank issue?Thanks again for all the support during my weekend, and I'm glad to have her back on the road. I was about ready to give up on the VP yesterday morning when I tightened the injectors back up, cranked one more time and she coughed - sputtered - and came back to life for me. The greatest sound in the world, and no new VP for now - but looking at the AirDog in the near future after over a year of putting it off.By the way, the lift is putting out a nice 14-15 psi normal operation, maybe swinging down to 11-12 during heavier applications, and idling at 15.
  5. Well guys, With a lot of input from you all I got things sorted out a bit on my 2000. First off I installed new KYB mono max shocks on all 4 corners; much better ride! Then came a Lukes link kit on my track bar as well as a PSC steering stabilizer...HUGE difference! Installed my AD 150 with the big line kit between the stock fuel bowl and vp44 and a Draw straw 1 from vulcan . Got rid of my drop in k&n and installed a BHAF amsoil 4510 with a pre-filter. Changed the transmission oil and installed a Fuller eaton filter kit with amsoil synthetic syncromesh 5 w 30 (for less than half the cost of mopar fluid too! ) Also got a great deal on a frantz filter set up thanks to Mopar1973 going to bat for us and Deborah at wefilterit.com And finally I got my Edge juice with attitude monitor installed too (WOW). So far I am showing 22 PSI fuel at idle and 20psi pouring the coals to it! Early on when I began posting here I got a rash of crap about K&N filters...I was an ignorant sheep, yes I admit it now. Thankfully now a I have been educated as to what that extra flow actually costs. YIKE$$! So needless to say, all of my vehicles have been stripped of the K&N filter and now are using Amsoil nanofiber filters. If anyone would like a stock lift pump (engine mounted) that has VERY LITTLE use (2 months) please PM me and I will be happy to send it to you for $10 plus actual shipping. It worked fine when it was removed and is practically brand new. I guess I better start putting a dollar in the console every day so I can save up for a clutch job....it is only a matter of time! Thanks, Chris
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