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When I bought my truck it had a Isspro Fuel pressure gauge mounted in the left pillar. I installed a Fass150 and Edge Juice with attitude. 2years later, I would like to hook up the Isspro gauge again...it's just sitting there and I think its cool when it works. My question is, whats the best way to make this happen? Cut the line before/after the current one and run a completely separate setup? Will this cause any issues? Below is a pic of my current set up. Thanks for any help!!

I just installed my gauge according to genos garage instructions using there universal fuel hose not much drive time yet but every thing seams to be working good i have 14 lbs pressure at idle 11 pounds cruising and 9 pounds wot.As of yet guage reading is steady no eratic movement.

For 99 owners, where did you tap for your fuel line to gauge. My filter housing doesn't have anything on bottom to tap into like Mike's does. All I have on filter housing is the inline from the lift pump and the out line to the IP, both are on top of the filter housing. Also there are 2 capped ports on top, sorry no pics right now. Is the out line to the IP where I would thread in my tapped banjo bolt for the fuel line. Also, is it okay to run braided line all the way to mech. gauge, don't want isolator. Plan on doing the needle valve setup. Will braided line go into the gauge, i.e. will it thread into the port on the gauge itself, or do I have to do the nylon tubing kit. Thanks.

So i bought the gauge with the gauge kit and am getting ready to hook it up, Do i need to use the pressure gauge isolator shown in the pics? and if so what does it do? also i have a schrader valve coming off of my vp44 can i plumb the gauge in there?

A poll to help with quick look at vitals.

Hi there. Had my Airdog100 installed yesterday and the mechanic went to put the fuel pressure sending unit in and broke the nut at the top for the ground! I was wondering if I could solder that and make it work or figure out a way to use it where it will hold together? Guess it's not that expensive but why order a new one if this one is fine. I will include a pic and hopefully you can see it good enough to tell me. Thanks guys!

I was told the VP trucks are brutal on FP gauges. My Stewart Warner needs some slappen' around to get it to behave right. Only 5 years old and an electronic sensor type, I'm disappointed.The pulsating is what is supposed to be hard on them but, how is that so bad on an electronic one ? I even had the Vulcan small orific to prevent that. Next weekend Source automotive is putting on a mechanical one. Is that what's best? What brand do you guys have that's lasted? Like to know a little bit on how they are made and what type is best for our VP trucks.T.i.a.

Hey everyone I'm new to the forum and trying to learn as much about my dodge as I can to keep it on the road. I just put an isspro fuel pressure gauge on it confirmed that I need a lift pump. (not that I didn't know that already). My question is I have been looking at lp and I've decided to go with the air dog 100 big line kit whatever I need to do it right. I have no plans for engine/power upgrades I'm just looking for longevity and later on who knows I might want to add something. Just wondering if I'm on the right track. Your input is appreciated.

Thanks again for all your replies! It was definitely a shot lift pump. We installed the new FASS DDRP pump and it rocks. I am amazed at how quiet it runs. The FP gauge is also awesome and thanks to MoparMan for posting video footage of a properly set snubber valve! Mine is open less than an 1/8th of a turn and like Mikes the needle rises gently to 21 psi at idle and drops to 14 psi at WOT. I got the IssPro Tranny, Pyro, and FP gauges in the pillar pod and a 2" hole saw made a nice spot to the left of the ashtray for my Boost gauge. I will post pics of the setup.Next project is to repair my QUAD XZT+. The mice ate through the electrical wiring this winter as I must have left it in the way of their nest building plans!

My buddy was off today so while I was at work he took my 01 Ram to install FP gauge. He put the required banjo bolt in the bottom of fuel canister complete with snubber, then attached the plastic line fird up the truck and it sucked in air instead of blowing out fuel!! Why doesn't it pump the fuel/air out when running or cranking over? It actually sucks in air and the lines need to be bled. Any help? I am not running an isolator.Arcwelder

I am thinking that a Low FP Warning would be a good idea... Who offers one? My thought is to T the switch in when installing the new FP gauge. Your experiences?

Put a Pricol 0-30psi fuel gauge in when new and it's been fluctuating, especially in hot/warm weather, and pulling hard. The engine runs perfectly without a miss. I have a FASS installed and it produces 15psi steady. I'm suspecting the "isolator", the thingy that's filled with antifreeze. I'm about ready to remove the isolator and run the line directly to the gauge or just bite the bullet and change to an electric gauge. Do these "isolators" have a reputation for failure? Kind of makes me wonder when the pressure jumps around but I'm relying on the FASS to give steady pressure. Thanks. This is my first post here...

I know this has been asked before prolly more than once I need a fuel pressure guage and I want it to be accurate but would like to keep just the fuel pressure guage cost less than 150 because I still would like to have some reserve for a new fuel pump if needed now the interesting thing is when ever I check pressure overnite here at hom its always at twelve and stays there engine off and its been that way since i got it I have removed the pump and wrapped it to the best of my abbity with header wrap and I would say I'm yet to have a problem after puting 150,000 on this pump I am starting to get concerned and yes the truck is pretty much so stock just home grown mods to improve chassis stiffness and brakeing upgrades at least she stops like a sports car any suggestions for where to buy and if I replace my pump I plan to go with a Holley pump that I piece a kit together soley for the fact that myself my father and his father can all speak for Holley considering they ran a drag team and wenever a pump went bad a Holley rep came out to see what was up and it apears cheaper and yes I accept Air dog as being a succesful upgrade I just cant justify cost if you get the filters and all if you know what I mean and yes I pull trailers and work the piss out of my baby but I dont plan on haveing a 400 hp rig just a mild mannered 300ish hp rig based on needs for pulling power it looses speed on nething greater than 6percent for over a mile with 8k behind her thats a fix for after the tranny bill:banghead: still considering a nv4500 so neone that knows of a parts truck I've got the cash and you ought to be able to do it for 2500-3000 with a s/b clutch and comp reflash and a month in the shop versus 7k and a trip to iowa for for a built auto what do you guys think any and all help and info is greatly appreichiated

New fuel pressure problems...I used to have problems with sudden pressure drops, so Installed a Raptor 100 Lift pump. It's worked quite well up until my last 300 mile trip. Now my fuel pressure spikes (up to 30 psi) on long low throttle cruising, and at idle. The electronic fuel pressure sender (Glow Shift) is isolated from the VP inlet by a 16" grease gun hose. Would this seem like enough of a "Snubber", or should I get a needle valve? A buddy of mine has a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. We'll hook it up in a few days and compare readings. I just wondered if anyone else has ever had problems with a Raptor 100 spiking. Idle fuel pressure is set at 15-17 psi.

Finally got my FP gauge installed correctly. Had been using the isolator but I could never get it to work right or for very long. Now I am direct to the gauge. 18.5 @ idle 16 @ wot. Stupid questions. If I start to notice a drop in pressure do you just pull over and shut it down? I think I read it takes 14 to open the overflow on the IP to cool the IP. So less than 14 you pull over and shut it down ? I know that sounds dumb but now that I have the FP just want to know what it is trying to tell me to do. If your LP went out completely the reading would be 0 correct ? You shouldn't be getting a reading from the IP sucking the fuel correct ? Thanks Rob

OK Gang... I discovered something today... For all of you that have mechanical fuel pressure gauges that are direct plumbed can have even more safety now. I found that you can get 1/8" air brake line at NAPA for cheap. The nice part is that the air brake line is rated well above 150 PSI (which I hardly doubt a 15-20 PSI lift pump will blow) and it extremely flexable. So if you kink the line it doesn't break off like oil pressure gauge tubing. This is Polyon Air Brake line. My problem was where my old school big line kit has the tap in the line for gauge is in between the filter and VP44 so every time I would work on my truck I would flex line so much I break it off. Now I got to head to town get a ferule and replace it again. Well that is gone and over... I bought 10 feet and 4 ferules for $6.00 buck even. Cheap fix and no longer got to worry about that line now... Even sitting here right now I'm flexing that piece of scrap line and I can fold it over in half and straighten it out over and over and it just snaps back. No holes or breaks yet...