Search the Community

hello ... for several days it gives me the p0222 code but it did not cause a fault that I felt driving, I did not use the truck for a week and yesterday when I started it it made like 8 injection cuts in a row and very strong and then the engine was turned off I just started it several times but he did the same and the throttle does not respond and the only code he gives is the P0222, I am very worried I don't know what it will be. thanks for your help. Orlando

Here is a quick write-up and how to for changing the image on your Touch/MM3 to something more to your liking! https://smartysupport.com/articles.html/smarty-touch-mm3/personalized-smarty-touchmm3-background-image-r25/

I ordered towing mirrors off amazon last year. Got them in and installed them, I hook them up and tested both sides before putting everything back together. Both worked, Installed them, Passenger side still worked, but driver side didn't. Emailed company they sent out another set, error happened and I got 1 correct and 1 for a 2010+ sized mirror. Emailed them they sent out another set and they were correct. months go by and I didn't have the need to change the mirrors out as i already had them adjusted to where i needed them(folded down) I did some trading with a friend and traded him the mirrors that were messed up for a leveling kit and some cash. We took old ones off and up new ones on my truck. Tested before installing them everything worked great. Start the truck and turn it around in the driveway. My driver side works fine now but my passenger side on goes left and up folded in or flopped out. Im not a wiring guy and I need help figuring out why it has done this.

Hello again, I have had this starting problem for about 6 or 8 months now at least and I'm getting tired of it. I cant find any write ups online about it. Its a 1998 dodge cummins obviously. I don't really know how to describe it cause it is so random and all the lights work and try fires up fine once it finally cranks over. I'de guess about every 40th turn of the key is a dud and then the next 20 or 30 cranks after that are dude until the truck decides it wants to crank over and start. What could this be? I have checked every fuse in the truck that a test light can check. I have eyeballed all the square fuses under the hood. Everything seems okay. It has a new ignition in it, my father replaced it before i got the truck cause he thought that was the cause of the truck dieing(was vp44/ecm) so got new vp44 and rebuilt ecm. I believe it was the ignition anyways. I have the part and the box for the new one in it somewhere. Batteries are new and cable end are new with di electric grease slathered generously. It has a oreileys starter on it. It was put on truck when I replaced clutch as my original one was from autozone. But the shop I was at had an oreileys one in the box so we put it on.

Hi Guys, So Posting this on behalf of my good buddy, he spent wayyyyyyyy tooo much money figuring this problem out for me not to summarize and post something. -4th Gen 2010 Ram 2500 Bighorn Background - So While the truck was still under factory warranty, there was almost no issues or gremlins with the powertrain. After the warranty ran out, my buddy ordered an EGR, and DPF delete kit. Then he followed up with the Mini Max, and that's where the problem started. The issue - After the mini maxx, the truck ran all around great, but after a few months there was an intermittent stutter coming to a stop. What did not fix the truck - Replaced CP3, Injectors, headgasket (ARP Studs), Fan Clutch, Cummins ECU, Ram PCM, and an array of MaP, Crank, and cam sensors. The Final fix - It appears the factory ram fuel system cannot handle any aftermarket demand, so a FASS titanium system was the final resolution for this wallet draining frustration.

My 2000 Ram gave codes P0606, P0121, & P0123 when temperature below about 20 DegF about three weeks ago and I knew P0606 was the death code for ECM. I had "dead pedal" after some surging but I could idle it fo 15 minutes and as the block warmed up it worked.I was somewhat surprised there is not a dealer ECM available for this truck in all of Canada and they are about $2,100 list for a REMAN that originates from Cummins. My only recourse was to buy a wrecker ECM but the Dodge expert mechanic assigned to software warned me the ECM VIN has to match the other modules or this leads to future problems with replacing other modules. He said he could not change VIN himself with DRBIII, StarScan, or current WiTech software tools from Chrysler Corp. I decided to do extensive research on the internet and realized the Smarty S03 was a powerful programming tool for the ECM and emailed Bob Wagner in MADD electronics on ability to change VIN. He wrote back that the "recovery procedure" will take the static program image in the ECM and pull the VIN from the ABS unit to recopy to the executable image in the ECM flash memory. I was all set to buy it at $800 but I already had the Puck and decided to talk to the Dodge mechanic again and relayed all I learned about the "recovery procedure" and that I planned to buy it. It was like a light bulb turned on but he did not say much except to "bring it in". Two days later the used ECM was in my truck and working perfectly but I never did get to talk to him again as dealers do not like the nonchargeable time. I can only guess that the DRBIII "recovery procedure" does exactly the same thing as the Smarty. My belief is that Dodge fortified their flash update software so that only blank ECM's could be flashed with fresh software unless there is a TSB for new software update outstanding. This was done to ensure only Dodge supplied parts could be used. Cummins has the ECM on a "restricted status" (CumminsQuickServe online) and only Chrysler Corp can buy them. By the way I still have the old ECM and I believe the +5 volt supply to the APPS was the cause of the fault. The power supply circuit to regulate battery voltage to +5 volts is usually only a 3 terminal chip like the LM7805 regulator (Texas Inst) but requires an electrolytic capacitor on input and output terminal to ground. These electrolytics are the most unreliable components on the board and heat of an engine block ages it exponentially faster. I may make an attempt to fix it but surface mount boards usually require special equipment due to small spacing. By the way you can get a free account on Cummins QuickServe and it will cross reference any Cummins engine number to the Dodge VIN and visa versa, which is great when looking at wrecker engine parts to make sure options are same like the 47RE. I took the donor VIN to the dealer to make sure options matched. If you want to see all the Cummins part numbers (and superseded numbers) for your truck just enter one known Cummins part number on the "XReference" entry and ALL the rest will show with a diagram! You will get a list of engine vintages but choose one closest and before your build date.

1995 360 C.I. Magnum out of a '95 Ram 1500Completely build short block, Bored .030" over, decked .010", painted Hemi orange.Mopar Performance mild Cam and flat tappet liftersMopar Performance timing gears and chainSpeed-Pro .030" Over pistons w/ valve reliefsSpeed-Pro .030" Over moly piston ringsClevite main, rod, and cam bearingsValve seats have been re-groundValves have been re-cutNew valve seats installedRe-used valve springs and rockersWill need new push-rods, upper end finished, cylinders may need to have a ball hone ran down em to clean em up (engine has been sitting for awhile now), new oil pan, headers, all accessories. I can figure out a way to package and ship, at the buyers expense, It will be shipped from zip code 13042.Asking 1,800.00 obo.Reply with questions or text me at (315)396-9380Mick