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cracked fuel filter housing.


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Or if you need to get off a little cheaper, you can replace your filter housing with a 2000 and newer housing. They have the spin on top with drop in filter and you can use the Baldwin 7977 5 micron filter made for the common rail trucks. I just put the Fass titanium on my 95 and it's a great setup, I have never been let down by FASS!

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Genos sells new F/F caps made of steel if you want to save some money. Those plastic caps break when using the inside square drive w/ a ratchet. It helps not crack when you use the outside big socket instead.

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Thanks for ur input. I cracked it removing the plug on top. I was installing a remote fuel pressure sender. I work at a dodge dealer, had the parts guy look up the housing. Chrysler doesn't make it,but they have a updated fuel filter kit for 1200$ fass fuel 600$. Least with the fass I have the upgraded lift pump. So with the fass I just leave the old housing In the Truck? Water in fuel sensor?

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Thanks for ur input. I cracked it removing the plug on top. I was installing a remote fuel pressure sender. I work at a dodge dealer, had the parts guy look up the housing. Chrysler doesn't make it,but they have a updated fuel filter kit for 1200$ fass fuel 600$. Least with the fass I have the upgraded lift pump. So with the fass I just leave the old housing In the Truck? Water in fuel sensor?

If your going with a Fass Titanium there is no reason in keeping the stock ff housing or lift pump. Hi can get a fuel pump block of plate for a big block Chevy for $10 at the parts store that will bolt right to your cummins block. You can also get some 1/2" stainless spacers to put in place of the ff housing or just get shorter bolts from ace hardware.

Edited by 98whitelightnin
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installed the fass on friday it took me bout 5hrs to get it done. I got rid of the filter housing and left the factory lift pump on the block. fuel pressure at 15psi when i first start bout 14psi when warm up at idle. psi drop to bout 12 or 13 when i get on it.  Way better than before . I had bout 10 psi at idle and 5 psi when is got on it, not good. Got 1/2 tees from genos too, tapped into the hose for the remote fuel pressure sender. After installing the fass i had only 2 inch of hose left ova. Fass give u just enough fuel line to get the job done, any mistakes u might not have enough fuel line.

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installed the fass on friday it took me bout 5hrs to get it done. I got rid of the filter housing and left the factory lift pump on the block. fuel pressure at 15psi when i first start bout 14psi when warm up at idle. psi drop to bout 12 or 13 when i get on it. Way better than before . I had bout 10 psi at idle and 5 psi when is got on it, not good. Got 1/2 tees from genos too, tapped into the hose for the remote fuel pressure sender. After installing the fass i had only 2 inch of hose left ova. Fass give u just enough fuel line to get the job done, any mistakes u might not have enough fuel line.

Personally I'd like seeing lift pressure around 17 PSI at idle and above 14 at wide open throttle. The overflow valve opens at 14 PSI so anything less your fuel just sits at the VP44 and traps heat.

If there is a way to adjust your fuel pressure I would definitely bump the pressure up.

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Sounds like you still may have the factory fuel lines with banjo bolts. All needs to go away with half inch line kit to the VP. Also check for tank vent clog... you'll hear a vacuum/ hiss when removing the fuel cap slowly after a run.

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So today I replaced the roll over valve. I dropped the tank and removed the fuel level sender pick up assy. Clean it all up. Removed the factory screens. Reinstalled every thing. Still have 14psi at idle. What do u guys think? What should I check next? I don't have the hissing noise anymore when removing the fuel cap. Least that's fixed. Again brand new fass titanium 1\2 fuel line to the vp44. Remote Fuel pressure sender tee off about where the factory lift pump is. Mounted sender drivers side inner fender.

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