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need help with my torque converter not locking.... at all


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The intermittent nature may be a ground or connector. Hard to say.

 

Remember all main computers are grounded on the passenger side ground cable. There is no body grounds for the main computers. All body grounds are secondary systems like lights and horn etc. So to verify grounds you could do a voltage drop test for each circuit.

 

Could be a corroded connector or weak connection. Yankneck typically suggested loading each plug with di-electric grease and cycling the plug at least 3 times to hopefully get a good connection once again.

 

Still AC noise from a bad alternator could be causing part of this headache...

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry for late response...  my switch is still in.  And seemed to work only sometimes.   Yesterday I unplugged the alternator wire and drive and now everything Eems to work sweeeeet....  for the time I drove with it disconnected.   I'm on my way to get another alternator. Tired of dealing with this.  I going to have the alternator shop test it and test their own as well 

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  • 3 weeks later...

well   replaced the alternator.   and seems to be alot better.   but i need a for sure fix to this, im maxed out on the Fun meter with this issue.  also replaced the air filter .   

Can someone tell me the symptoms of bad governor pressure switch and sensor?  i feel like my torque converter locks good sometimes  and sometimes it does not lock fully.   i know its working i can see rpms not drop fast when i let off the gas   sometimes it has good power and sometimes im embarassed to pass i feel like im smoking everyone out and not going far.   when the overdrive kicks in i used to feel some good thrust and not as much most of the time .   upgraded turbo , 100hp injectors , cold air, edge comp ,        .... i would think i would have alot more power 

Burnouts is not my thing neither is smoking people out....   but i tried to do a power brake for sh!ts and giggles and i could barely build any boost.   i tried a different day and seems like i build boost ok...   

it is difficult for me to get my truck to a good shop because of my work schedule .    my last resort is AAMCO.  but my luck is they have it for a day and tell me truck is fine..    i would pay some good money to have someone here local help me out.  i have dumped lots of money in this thing lately not to have power on demand.   im doing another long roadtrip pretty soon and need to have some peace of mind everything is running the way supposed to .    she hasnt let me down yet...  but ....

last thing, the only thing i remember messing with prior to is the tv cable, to change my 1st to 2nd  shift point from annoying 2200rpms to 1700 rpm.   

thnx in advance fellas  

Edited by freedomisntfree
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A STOCK valve body will lock up (with a lockup switch) in 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. The one exception is that it will not allow lockup in MANUAL 2nd gear.

Once the TCC is on, and the transmission has upshifted into 3rd gear and then 4th, the 2-3 and 3-4 shift valves are hydraulically locked in their upshifted positions (ie. the VB can't shift back down into 3rd or 2nd until the converter unlocks). As you come to a stop with the switch still on, the converter won't unlock until governor pressure diminishes to the point where a 2-1 downshift occurs, which is usually pretty much right as you come to a stop. At that point, it will release 4th, 3rd and 2nd in rapid succession, and the converter will unlock...but it all hinges on that 2-1 downshift to exhaust the oil that is locking the converter and holding the shift valves in the upshifted position. What you will feel in the truck if you don't turn off the switch is that you will be coming to a stop still locked in the highest gear that you had achieved (most likely 4th...), and the engine will likely stall before everything lets go after the 2-1 downshift.

In short, a stock VB will allow a locked 2-3 and a 3-4 shift, but once the higher gear  is engaged, it won't allow a downshift until the TCC is turned off.

I don't mind a locked 3-4 upshift, but a 2-3 upshift (the only other shift that a stock VB will give you with the TCC locked) should be avoided. 

You can use a lockup switch with good effect on a stock valve body, but to really maximize its usefulness requires a few mods to the lower VB (OD/TCC) and separator plate.

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