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Ok, tow pig has 352K on the stock turbo. No major power adders. I pulled the BHAF today to install the MECHMAN 240AMP Alternator, noticed discernible play in the turbo shaft. What turbo do I get with my mods. was previously quoted about 775 for a stock replacement turbo from the local injector shop

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No reason for upgrade unless your adding enhancement module and/or injectors. I'm still running stock HX35W turbo without a issue. The only time I see high EGT's is getting stupid with speed (heading toward 100 MPH) or towing up a steep grade with my RV then I've just got to use gearing to compensate. More or less drive like all the big over the road trucks.

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No reason for upgrade unless your adding enhancement module and/or injectors. I'm still running stock HX35W turbo without a issue. The only time I see high EGT's is getting stupid with speed (heading toward 100 MPH) or towing up a steep grade with my RV then I've just got to use gearing to compensate. More or less drive like all the big over the road trucks.

Agree. I would go into a factory turbo with a genuine Holset rebuild (Cummins RECON parts). I would rather spend the extra coin knowing I have an authentic build and not a Chinese copy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

cw would be a good choice if the OP wants some more go.  

 

 

However why not get a rebuild kit for your turbo?  Cheap and easy.

 

CW is the best turbo out there for the $$ under 500hp. Not many other turbos will give you instant spool .... and support 500hp ...... and handle 300-500hp in the map range. Of course there are some mods to be done and used your all in for $600ish (not new).

 

 

time is the main issue

Then buy a rebuilt/used hx35 off a rebuilder .... swap out yourself in under 1 hour. Or the rebuild kits like the guys say. See below

 

Rebuilt kit won't cost much in time.

Only problem is the indexing/marking of the componentry as your putting it on unbalanced (well not proven balanced). That makes me nervous on something that spins at 100000 rpm or whatever it is ........ but lots of guys do it :) 

 

Its also teh cheapest option at less than $100.

 

OP - what play do you have ....... side to side is OK as long as its not hitting the comp housing ....... in and out is the bad one where thrust bearing

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CW is the best turbo out there for the $$ under 500hp. Not many other turbos will give you instant spool .... and support 500hp ...... and handle 300-500hp in the map range. Of course there are some mods to be done and used your all in for $600ish (not new).

Then buy a rebuilt/used hx35 off a rebuilder .... swap out yourself in under 1 hour. Or the rebuild kits like the guys say. See below

Only problem is the indexing/marking of the componentry as your putting it on unbalanced (well not proven balanced). That makes me nervous on something that spins at 100000 rpm or whatever it is ........ but lots of guys do it :)

Its also teh cheapest option at less than $100.

OP - what play do you have ....... side to side is OK as long as its not hitting the comp housing ....... in and out is the bad one where thrust bearing

Ok so the HE351CW has to be retrofitted. The waste gate position is not in a usable location for a second gen manifold. Secondly the turbo can support 500 horsepower but the drive pressure will be through the roof. Also the EGT will be in excess of 1500 degrees. If the OP is going to work the truck hard an HX35W will be his best bet. The 12cm turbine housing will spool a little slower than an HE351CW but it is a direct bolt on. If he wants to upgrade I would recommend a Borg Warner S300G with a modified .70 A/R divided and waste gated housing. The flow rate of the S300G is about 5 lb/min greater than a HX35W and the shaft is much stronger. The S300G waste gate actuator set is set to 30 PSI but the OP may see boost levels of near 35 PSI. Pushing higher boost levels than 35 PSI will increase the cylinder pressure to the point where head studs may be necessary to keep the head gasket from slipping out.

As far as the shaft play if it is beyond 0.013" - 0.020" in the radial axis (90 degrees from the shaft aka side to side) it is time for a rebuild and beyond 0.001" - 0.005" in the axial axis (in line with the shaft) it is time for a rebuild.

The link below has the service data. Scroll down until you see HX35W service data.

http://www.myholsetturbo.com/modelinfo.html

Also the Holset HX35W has a flow rate of .46 Kg/sec which equates to 60 lb/min of air flow at 3.0 Pressure Ratio which is about 30 PSI of boost. Beyond there is a risk of turbine overspeed. The compressor map says the pressure ratio can go as high as 3.5 which equates to roughly 35 PSI if my memory is serving me well but that is on the edge.

http://www.myholsetturbo.com/holsethx35.html

Holset has the service data sheets online with all the specifications.

Edited by Vais01
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THE HE351CW can support more hp with better flow and spoolup than a hx35. Drive pressures are actually very similar in real world testing at given HP....

Yes it needs to be clocked and you need an aftermarket intercooler pipe which are easy to source ....

It's just an all around better turbo ..... I've probably had 10-15 turbos on my trucks including 3 twin combinations .... 1 used the he351cw in one of them ....

Damn little bad boy for $$$

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Mine was a little tongue in cheek.... rebuild makes most sense if not wanting to switch things up.

I just think that He351 should have been our stock turbo

Don't get me wrong the HE351CW is a great turbo but it would need some different plumbing (turbine outlet elbow, down pipe and hot side pipe) and the housings (compressor and turbine) would need to be clocked accordingly. It would have made a great stock turbo.

For OP it is more cost effective to just get a Cummins Recon HX35W and bolt it up.

If the OP wants a bolt up upgrade an S300 would be a great one but won't be cost effective unless he wants to add more power. An S300G only flows 58 lb/min where the HX35W can flow up to 60 lb/min. Only way to make it an upgrade is go to a 62/65/.70 divided and waste gated but again this is cost prohibitive.

Edited by Vais01
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Like JOHNFAK says, Drive pressure isn't crazy high with the 351CW,  It is a little higher then the HX35.

 

 

You may not need a new hot side pipe, some have been able to twist the stock pipe and just use a 45* 3" to 2.5" reducer.

 

B94180BF-1F60-4B18-AE93-6EA0DC92FF9B.jpg

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