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jordan

Electrical options

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Ok guys here's the deal I'm rewiring my whole truck and would like to know what kind of extras you guys would like to inter graded into the harness. I'm going to put extras such as power window locks, TC lock up by pass, inter lamp over ride, and more stupid little options. I don't care how useless or impractical they are, i just want to be able cover all extra items that can be thought of.

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Those aren't stupid, very smart of you to be thinking ahead like that. Only other thing I can think of is grid heater override, but you being in Canada, not sure it's that big a deal.

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Ok guys here's the deal I'm rewiring my whole truck and would like to know what kind of extras you guys would like to inter graded into the harness. I'm going to put extras such as power window locks, TC lock up by pass, inter lamp over ride, and more stupid little options. I don't care how useless or impractical they are, i just want to be able cover all extra items that can be thought of.

Those aren't stupid, very smart of you to be thinking ahead like that. Only other thing I can think of is grid heater override, but you being in Canada, not sure it's that big a deal.

Like ISX said it a smart idea to add in all the extra and plan ahead... :smart:

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Although i am in Canada i do like the sound of that grid heater override "see how cold, before the old girl wont start" ;) I started working on the wiring diagram today with my brother and we decided to use relay banks close to the high amperage components to minimize heavy wire gage lengths. All the banks will be connected using CAT. 5e ethernet cable at very low amperage, and a 6 AWG positive supply. Both wires will be encased in heat shrink tubing. I'm going to try to make all electrical components military grade, hopefully this will make them last longer. I came up with a crazy idea today, as i was wishing my truck smoked more. My thought is to put a mechanically adjustable (min/max) solenoid over a custom made main fuel screw that would have a sliding pin in the middle (of the screw) for the solenoid to actuate. i would love to hear so input on these idea's. thanks guys:thumb1:

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Well the grid heater thing just saves your alternator and batteries from being overused when you restart your truck and it's already warmed up. Like moparman unhooks his entirely all summer to save on his, but you can also just put a switch on the wire that energizes the grid heater relay. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1278-Switched-Grid-Heater Thats how I did mine. All your ideas are really good and the fact that your planning it all out like you are is also very commendable. Your last thing about the smoke screw is very interesting. You will have to go into detail a little more on that. :thumbup2:

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considering it's snowed in April up here before, i think i would rather a switch (which looks pretty strait forward) then trying to hook up my grid at 6am when it's 20F out lol and i took a couple of minutes and drew up a very basic example of what i was describing about that pin idea. post-10236-138698164291_thumb.gif

post-10236-13869816428_thumb.jpg

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Actually the spring isn't to bad for strength (after opening Taz's VE pump of Gov Spring 366). The problem is that as you adjust the fuel screw inward your idle speed rises. Then if over adjusted then theengine goes into full runaway mode. (which I'm glad to say never happen yet). So in reverse repect if the screw was to back out then the idle falls. so what do you do while turning up the screw and the idle screw now is gone and you can reduce the idle anymore??? Simple you re-index the arm of the throttle. But the point I'm making is that with a auot pin like your figuring it going to change a bunch of stuff like idle speed and such. so I hate to say it but the idea is kind of short.

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Ok well maybe I'm thinking of adjusting the wrong screw then. I want to be able to have liquid black smoke poor out on the side walk for as long as i want it too, from idle to full throttle (remember not just low boost), is this done with the smoke screw or main fuel screw ? and idle shouldn't be a big issue, i'm going to put an idle adjustment cable in the cab, kinda like the old school buses have (I have a thing for low idling engines, a little problem when it's cold out)

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The smoke screw is for pre 5psi boost. To keep the truck from smoking with no boost, it uses that to limit fuel until you have enough boost to allow for more fuel without more smoke. The power screw is what you adjust after you have boost. Getting liquid black isn't too hard if you adjust the smoke screw, it will roll it out until it builds boost. After that, it gets harder to keep up the smoke since the turbo is doing all it can to provide enough boost. Stock, I doubt it would even smoke after boost builds, the injectors won't flow enough fuel to achieve that. Basically to achieve what you want, you have to spend money. The sled pullers trucks didn't smoke that much before they took out a loan.. Lets say you got bigger injectors and all the fuel necessary to do this at full boost, you will only be able to do this for maybe 5 seconds, as EGT's will be soaring. Mine gets up to 33psi and I barely have any smoke and it will reach upwards of 1400F within 5 seconds. I know your young and want smoke like all the other people that have it (which I know since theres about 10 trucks around here with stacks :lol:), but it really isn't worth it. Just do the smoke screw thing and when you step on it and it starts to build boost, it will be smoking.

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Well knowing that now, i think i will just stick to playing around with the smoke screw! I'm going to have to make some sort of solenoid however (I do most of my driving in Guelph one of the "greenest" cities in Ontario, I get dirty looks for just idling there :nono:) also where might i get one of these EGT gauges? The more the merrier as they say, and i love a full dash!P.S. I'm not a stack man myself i like running board exhaust, more so when it's aimed at the sidewalk:evilgrin:

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It's not really that hard to keep it from smoking. Normally the smoke screw keeps the fuel rate low enough to not smoke, but when you adjust the smoke screw, you are adjusting the amount of boost needed to give you full fuel. It loosens the spring tension so it's not as hard. So instead of 5psi, it might only take 1-3psi to give you full fuel, since this is insufficient boost pressure, it can't burn all of the fuel being shot in, then you get your black smoke. But you also have to give it the fuel to make it smoke.. Basically you floor it before the turbo is building boost, and it will puke your smoke, but if you drive it normal, it won't smoke. You can see all the gauges here scroll down a little http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm Not sure if you can buy them too easily from those sites. I know a lot of people get on http://www.summitracing.com All the gauges on the first link manufacturer list are good. I don't like stacks cause they draw unwanted red and blue attention.. Some of them look good but yeah, mine points at sidewalk :burnout:

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Thanks for those links you have no idea how much time you just saved me :) there are some very nice gauges too chose from as-well :thumb1:

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its cool to roll coal, but please don't smoke pedestrians. that is not cool and gives diesels bad public image. when you finish your mod please link some pics or video

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I assure you i will not be rolling coal every where i go. There is a time and place for everything, unfortunately not every one grasps this concept! And it would be my pleaser to post some video and pics for viewing after. I will also be keeping work logs, hopefully of install time, parts, price, and any hiccups along the way.

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I assure you i will not be rolling coal every where i go. There is a time and place for everything, unfortunately not every one grasps this concept! And it would be my pleaser to post some video and pics for viewing after. I will also be keeping work logs, hopefully of install time, parts, price, and any hiccups along the way.

No joke... I try to keep my smoke controlled as much as possible but if I going to play I normally hose down Taz on a back road or up in the forest somewhere... But being real... The fact is if you seeing that much smoke you got to remember you not getting all burned so MPG are normally lower. Back to the phase "To play you gotta pay... :spend:"

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That reason is exactly why i want to be able to throw a switch and not just drive around everywhere stuck with it smoking when i step on the peddle.

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That reason is exactly why i want to be able to throw a switch and not just drive around everywhere stuck with it smoking when i step on the peddle.

Don't ever admit you got the switch and don't let any know you got it... Telling people upsets most these days and the big boys look down on you because you got to fool the truck to smoke. (Helpful advise)

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