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Ilikeoldfords

Disarming airbag in the old Caprice

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Hey guys. I am working on the old chevy again. I am going to be replacing the turn signal cam and ignition switch. I pulled off the front cover on the steering wheel and it has an airbag!! This is a 1992 Caprice classic.

Does anyone know what the disarm procedure is for this car? I dont really need an airbag going off because I unplugged the wrong thing.

Thanks for any tips!

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Pretty simple really. Just unhook the battery and leave the vehicle alone for 15 minutes minimum. The entire airbag system should be disarmed after that. Just make sure no one is inside the vehicle when the batteries are hooked up for safety.

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That's standard protocol with the fire dept is get to the battery and cut the ground (negative) before attempting to enter or remove a patient from a vehicle. The time frame can be shorten but general rule minimum of 5 minutes and the airbag module should be discharged. 15 minutes is just a better safety stand point for mechanic work and much less chances of it still firing off.

I've taken a extrication course in Donnelly ID (certified). I've seen what a airbag can do to people its not pretty. :wow:

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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I have had several extraction classes specifically about airbag and roll over protection devices in new vehicles and the danger they pose to rescue personnel and first responders. Some of the best eye opening seminars and classes I have sat through, also taught about seat belt use along with airbags and what to look for as a first responder when coming up on a scene were the air bags have deployed to see if the people are lying or not about if they had their seat belt on or not a lot of which police officers are not even taught, usually only crash scene investigators are taught some of the stuff we as first responders were taught in a couple classes I had several years back. Also where to cut using extracation tools and the different metals cars are made of that will render the jaws of the extracation tools junk if trying to cut through the wrong spots of some newer vehicles like the A pillars and roof supports.

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3 hours ago, CSM said:

Sounds like new car roofs need a cut here mark like military aircraft.

Yeah not only the super strength metals they use but they also hide all the nitrogen cylinders in many many different places now too like behind the plastic in the a pillars and roof lines for all the side curtain and numerous airbags in cars now days also. Some convertibles have roll over protection bars as well that have injured and killed many firemen and rescue personal. Those cool looking metal head rest type roll bars are actually hooked up to nitrogen cylinders and pop straight up to protect during a roll over and rescue persons have been killed and had their chest crushed while laying across the back of some of these cars when they deployed.

Edited by Wild and Free

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There is a App for Mobile Devices that you can look up every type of car and it will tell you where the airbags are located as well as the nitrogen cylinders. This was before I had a mobile device so I didn't write down. Now I'm wishing I did.

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One more question on my caprice. I am going to be changing the front rotors and that requires removing the wheel bearings and all that. I am fine with the repacking and everything but what is the torque procedure on front wheel bearings for an older rear wheel drive car like that? Just preload them and make sure the nut is snug?

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I normally preload the bearing and back off one face of the nut. As for repacking I always washed the bearings in gasoline and then inspect them for damaged rollers, cages, etc. Then check the races as well. If anything is damaged I replace a full kit in hub. Inner and outer bearing.

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Got another problem with the car. Maybe someone has some insight for me?

Lately it has developed a problem with light throttle/acceleration. If I am in town and go to accelerate slowly from a light, there is a pretty big hesitation before she picks up and goes. After you get it rolling and accelerating then it runs fine again. Also, if I am sitting still (idling) and I blip the throttle a couple times, the engine will usually die. Just kind of putters out. Cruising and driving at highway speeds is all good. Still has good power on the highway. The problem just seems to be near or right above idle. 

Any ideas? I am thinking maybe O2 sensors, TPS, or maybe a fuel injector issue? This car does have over 260k on the clock and most every part is original.

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