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Well half way through my trip up north I have found that my Balls joints are loose again.  

 

The moogs lasted 20K

The Danas lasted about 15k

 

Not really sure what to do.  I would love to just get something that lasted from the factory, but I dunno.  

 

Thoughts on what to try?  Should I do the dana ones again?

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My next batch will be from Napa... Just plain old NAPA ball joints.

My set I'm using now are RockAuto.Com but I forgot what cheap brand name I got.

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22 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Well half way through my trip up north I have found that my Balls joints are loose again.  

 

The moogs lasted 20K

The Danas lasted about 15k

 

Not really sure what to do.  I would love to just get something that lasted from the factory, but I dunno.  

 

Thoughts on what to try?  Should I do the dana ones again?

What part # Dana's did you use? 

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I'm closing in on 30k on my Napa joints and still tight, but who knows they'll probably break at 31k... I've pretty much accepted that any parts store joint aren't up to my standards. 

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I heard from a few different people that Moog is now manufactured in China. :(

I've more or less given up on part name chasing.

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I was thinking about using Spicer on mine but having second thoughts now. I put Moog on mine about 90k ago and the right side is getting some play along with the track bar being shot. Probably why i am having some death wobble. 

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Ever had front end damage? My 03' 2500 had front left impact. I replaced all 4 ball joints with moog when I bought the truck. 40,000 miles later, the left had 1/8" of play   and the right was tight.

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1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

Do those work in a 2000? they actually show another for the 00-02http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2077_dana_spicer_708047_ball_joint_set_for_2000_to_2002_dodge_ram.html

I see a 2000 in your sig. Were the for another truck?

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Just doing a general hunt for those part number on the internet turns out scary results. There hardly anyone selling Dana Spicer parts. Even common place like RockAuto or NAPA doesn't even list them.

Now Amazon got a few...

http://www.amazon.com/Yukon-YSPBJ-016-Joint-Dodge-Differential/dp/B00EHN7KXQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451099098&sr=8-2&keywords=DANA+SPICER+708047

Quote

This replaces Spicer part number 708047

Obsolete part number? Maybe that's why there is so few of them on the web...

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So how much play is too much, when having front axle on jack stands and putting pry bar under tire moving up and down? Mine move between 1/32 and 16th on both sides. And do you do unjoints and seals at same time or just replace wats bad. What's the life expectancy on axle seals and u joints? 

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My truck is an 00 but the front axle is a 98.

 

Talk about fun sourcing the right parts

 

 

Don't know if the front was hit or what.

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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

So how much play is too much, when having front axle on jack stands and putting pry bar under tire moving up and down? Mine move between 1/32 and 16th on both sides. And do you do unjoints and seals at same time or just replace wats bad. What's the life expectancy on axle seals and u joints? 

Up and down movement is NORMAL regardless of what the alignment shop tells you. it's the side to side play that is the issue.

i've been looking at several options for new ball joints. XRF was recommended. and rebestose something or others was also recommended.

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Watch out of that spline design. There is another brand doing thing and it will limit you to buying their brand. Something about the spine and the making the OD bigger.

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So is it the heat treatment or the alloy mixture that makes them better ball joints? I imagine some are just mild steel.

 Is there Any thoughts about bringing the new ones to a forge and have them treated/ change the metalurgey? I don't know.... someone might understand this process to make them good BJ's.

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Other thought...... if the BJ's are really good then you worry about the bj socket or cup wearing.

This makes me think about getting the greasable ones.

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Little information to make you think. The lower joint is a actual BALL Joint with a ball on the end of the taper. The upper is not a BALL joint but a SHAFT joint. The upper has a long rod like shaft into the cup.

AAMUpperBallJointCrsSec.jpg

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1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

Other thought...... if the BJ's are really good then you worry about the bj socket or cup wearing.

This makes me think about getting the greasable ones.

my oe's were sealed and lasted 200k+ miles. wish i could find some more of those. Installing them is a pretty involved job, but picking which ones to use sucks.

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I think about the actual manufacturer. Wonder who they really are as all the brand label companies can subcontract to the different forges to be made. Then wonder who actually specifies the better metallurgical alloy.

Dave, my oems only lasted 65 k miles.

Edited by JAG1

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